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Car Issue (1 Viewer)

Cjw_55106

Cjw_55106

Footballguy
So, our 2005 Expedition has been running rough for the past few weeks. Yesterday it quit when the wife pulled into the driveway. It started back up right away. I also noticed that while driving, if I put the pedal down, it doesnt always take off right away (not from a stop, but when accelerating). I dont know much about mechanic work, but does anyone have a guess as to what might be the issue? My first thought is maybe the fuel filter? Any thoughts are appreciated.

 
Those have the 5.4 3 valve engine... Aluminum heads and cast iron block.. Pain in the ### to change spark plugs, they always freeze in and snap off...

Known for having coil problems.. Is your check engine light on?? if so, get it scanned and it will show what cylinder is mis-firing.. Each spark plug has it's own coil

and when they go bad (which is common) it will mis-fire and run like crap...

 
playin4beer said:
Those have the 5.4 3 valve engine... Aluminum heads and cast iron block.. Pain in the ### to change spark plugs, they always freeze in and snap off...

Known for having coil problems.. Is your check engine light on?? if so, get it scanned and it will show what cylinder is mis-firing.. Each spark plug has it's own coil

and when they go bad (which is common) it will mis-fire and run like crap...
Click to expand...
No check engine lights are on.

 
My money is still on mis-firing due to bad coils and/or plugs... very common..

A good scanner will show any "stored" codes, even if the check engine light isn't on... that's where i'd start, get it scanned.

 
playin4beer said:
My money is still on mis-firing due to bad coils and/or plugs... very common..

A good scanner will show any "stored" codes, even if the check engine light isn't on... that's where i'd start, get it scanned.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Is this one of the free scans that auto parts store will do or is it more complex?

 
Coil seems like a good bet, but I would think engine light would come on for that

MIL had a similar issue and it was a leak in the PCV hose

 
Cjw_55106 said:
playin4beer said:
My money is still on mis-firing due to bad coils and/or plugs... very common..

A good scanner will show any "stored" codes, even if the check engine light isn't on... that's where i'd start, get it scanned.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Is this one of the free scans that auto parts store will do or is it more complex?
Click to expand...
I'd start with the free scan Autozone or similar places will do... if that comes up empty, might have to take it in...

 
playin4beer said:
Cjw_55106 said:
playin4beer said:
My money is still on mis-firing due to bad coils and/or plugs... very common..

A good scanner will show any "stored" codes, even if the check engine light isn't on... that's where i'd start, get it scanned.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Is this one of the free scans that auto parts store will do or is it more complex?
Click to expand...
I'd start with the free scan Autozone or similar places will do... if that comes up empty, might have to take it in...
Click to expand...
Sounds good. Thanks.

 
playin4beer said:
Those have the 5.4 3 valve engine... Aluminum heads and cast iron block.. Pain in the ### to change spark plugs, they always freeze in and snap off...

Known for having coil problems.. Is your check engine light on?? if so, get it scanned and it will show what cylinder is mis-firing.. Each spark plug has it's own coil

and when they go bad (which is common) it will mis-fire and run like crap...
Click to expand...
:goodposting:

Wife had an '06 Escape (different engine, but also known for coil problems) that had a coil go bad a few years ago. Similar issue, and it didn't throw a CEL until it got a lot worse. We started noticing it as a slight hesitation, often just when you went up-hill. It also was accompanied by an odd buzzing sound, and a drop in RPM. It would pick back up though, and wasn't always reproduceable. Once it finally threw a CEL, it told me which coil to replace. Quick replacement and it was fine. Ours never completely cut out though.

 
Also, forgot about one other super common problem.. especially in the "rust belt" States... FPDM.. fuel pump driver module.. it's mounted near the rear axle and gets corroded..

http://www.fixya.com/uploads/images/tdisline_103.jpg

I've changed a few of these... sounds like your issue.. and normally won't cause a check engine light..

Buy a replacement from Dorman, Autozone, etc and do it yourself.. it's a 5 minute job... You can take yours off first and see if it looks like the bad one in the picture..

Edit to add picture of location.. Remove the spare tire..

http://info.autoworksmn.com/Portals/94047/images/Driver%20Location-resized-600.jpg

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Fat Nick said:
playin4beer said:
Those have the 5.4 3 valve engine... Aluminum heads and cast iron block.. Pain in the ### to change spark plugs, they always freeze in and snap off...

Known for having coil problems.. Is your check engine light on?? if so, get it scanned and it will show what cylinder is mis-firing.. Each spark plug has it's own coil

and when they go bad (which is common) it will mis-fire and run like crap...
Click to expand...
:goodposting:

Wife had an '06 Escape (different engine, but also known for coil problems) that had a coil go bad a few years ago. Similar issue, and it didn't throw a CEL until it got a lot worse. We started noticing it as a slight hesitation, often just when you went up-hill. It also was accompanied by an odd buzzing sound, and a drop in RPM. It would pick back up though, and wasn't always reproduceable. Once it finally threw a CEL, it told me which coil to replace. Quick replacement and it was fine. Ours never completely cut out though.
Click to expand...
Same exact thing happened to me but 4 different times over a 5 year period. Yep basically had to replace each of my ignition coils as they all eventually went bad. Never cut out on me either though.

 
playin4beer said:
Also, forgot about one other super common problem.. especially in the "rust belt" States... FPDM.. fuel pump driver module.. it's mounted near the rear axle and gets corroded..

http://www.fixya.com/uploads/images/tdisline_103.jpg

I've changed a few of these... sounds like your issue.. and normally won't cause a check engine light..

Buy a replacement from Dorman, Autozone, etc and do it yourself.. it's a 5 minute job... You can take yours off first and see if it looks like the bad one in the picture..

Edit to add picture of location.. Remove the spare tire..

http://info.autoworksmn.com/Portals/94047/images/Driver%20Location-resized-600.jpg
Click to expand...
Thank you sir. I'll check into this.

 
The wife brought it to Autozone. No codes came up. He said the tranny looked pretty new (I didnt think that was the issue anyways). He also said the battery is bad and we should get it replaced and start there. I can do that, if its bad, its bad. However, I dont think thats the overall issue. We replaced the battery less than a year ago. It seems something is wearing it down.

 
Cjw_55106 said:
The wife brought it to Autozone. No codes came up. He said the tranny looked pretty new (I didnt think that was the issue anyways). He also said the battery is bad and we should get it replaced and start there. I can do that, if its bad, its bad. However, I dont think thats the overall issue. We replaced the battery less than a year ago. It seems something is wearing it down.
Click to expand...
Yep, when I first had a bad ignition coil it was months before I got a code. You just gotta wait until it gets worse to diagnose it unfortunately.

 
playin4beer said:
I'll almost guarantee the battery is not bad... and I WILL guarantee that the battery is not your issue...
Click to expand...
This. As belljr said, AutoZone will almost ALWAYS tell you your battery is bad. Good news if it's 100% covered, bad news otherwise as they're worthless beyond that diagnosis.

Not to mention, I don't think a battery would cause that problem.

I think you're just going to have to drive on it until you get a CEL, then have it looked at.

 
I agree thats not the issue. I cant speak of Autozone's testing, but the guy knew I got my battery from somewhere else and told my wife to take it back there and get a replacement. Unless he was just trying to get rid of her because he couldnt find anything wrong, I dont see what he had to gain by lying. In any case, when I return it, they will obviously test it themselves.

 
I had a similar issue with my 08 Expedition. Mine was the fuel pump.

Get it in while it still starts. I waited because it was intermittent for a few days. Vehicle ended up dying at an intersection and I had to have it towed. If it starts drive it straight to your mechanic.

 
Cjw_55106 said:
I agree thats not the issue. I cant speak of Autozone's testing, but the guy knew I got my battery from somewhere else and told my wife to take it back there and get a replacement. Unless he was just trying to get rid of her because he couldnt find anything wrong, I dont see what he had to gain by lying. In any case, when I return it, they will obviously test it themselves.
Click to expand...
what i found was those guys were not reading the tool properly because when he rebooted it or changed something it got the correct reading :shrug:
 
belljr said:
Cjw_55106 said:
I agree thats not the issue. I cant speak of Autozone's testing, but the guy knew I got my battery from somewhere else and told my wife to take it back there and get a replacement. Unless he was just trying to get rid of her because he couldnt find anything wrong, I dont see what he had to gain by lying. In any case, when I return it, they will obviously test it themselves.
Click to expand...
what i found was those guys were not reading the tool properly because when he rebooted it or changed something it got the correct reading :shrug:
Click to expand...
sounds about right. I took i it in to where I bought it and they said it's fine and has more amps than its rated for.
 
Cjw_55106 said:
playin4beer said:
Those have the 5.4 3 valve engine... Aluminum heads and cast iron block.. Pain in the ### to change spark plugs, they always freeze in and snap off...

Known for having coil problems.. Is your check engine light on?? if so, get it scanned and it will show what cylinder is mis-firing.. Each spark plug has it's own coil

and when they go bad (which is common) it will mis-fire and run like crap...
Click to expand...
No check engine lights are on.
Click to expand...
Coil...I had a broken coil on a Ford this year, was misfiring for over a year, no check engine light, when I finally took it in it was about $500

 
Check on Ford car forums to see if this is common problem. It probably is a bad sensor. I have a 2003 Mercedes and had exact same issue and it was a bad mass airflow sensor which I found out is a very common problem. It was a $250 Bosch part but it was very easy to install and dealership would have charged me 600.00 at least. Also fuel pump or filter if you have not changed it. Spark plugs can actually last for the lifetime of your car now and don't need to be replaced as often. Check a Ford Board.

 
Finally got a code on Saturday night...3 codes actually. Today I'll start by replacing the camshaft sensor(s) and see what happens.

 
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