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A Guide to Savings and Investing (1 Viewer)

andy_b

Footballguy
I am trying to compile thoughts into one simple guide that people can use to prioritize their savings and investments.

This guide is not meant to be one stop shopping for everyone, but more of a general feel. Please note that these steps assume you already own a home. If you are currently saving for a home, then many of the steps below would change.

Please comment, specifically pointing out anything that is factually incorrect or that I am missing.

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1) Track all of your expenses over a 6 month period. You don't necessarily have to know exactly where the money is being spent but you need to know how much is being spent. You can use something like Quicken or a simple spread sheet. The key is to track everything.

2) Build up small emergency fund - Put 1-2 months worth of expenses into a safe, liquid vehicle (ie money market).

3) Pay down all high interest debt (ie credit cards.). It is not recommended to do any investing with significant credit card debt. Depending on the interest rate, you could very well pay more in interest than you could make investing.

4) Build up full emergency fund - Put 6-9 months worth of expenses into a safe, liquid vehicle (ie money market). If you are less likely to be out of work for a long time, then you can shoot for the low end (6 months), if you are more likely to be out of work for a long period of time (or are the sole bread winner), shoot for the higher monthly time frame (9 months).

4.5) Make sure your insurance needs are taken care of. This is a complex topic by itself and needs to be considered as part of any personal finance plan.

5) Invest in your companies 401K/403B up to the point where you can get the full company match. If your company does not match, move on to step 6 before you invest in a 401k (assuming your company offers one).

6) If you qualify for a Roth IRA, fund it for the legal limit. If you don't qualify for a Roth, move on to step 7.

7) Max out 401k to the legal limit (assuming your company offers one).

8) If you don't qualify for a Roth, max out a traditional IRA to the legal limit

9) If you have kids and if you are saving roughly 20% of your gross yearly income towards retirement, then you can start to feel ok about investing in a 529 plan or a Coverdell plan (which ever one better suits your situation). Note that if you will be getting a pension, the 20% number can drop lower. This is a very rough rule of thumb.

10) Invest in non tax shelter items (Mutual funds, bonds etc). This is as simple as setting up a brokerage account at Fidelity or Schwab

For more conservative investors, you can also pay down your house mortgage, which you could factor in any time after step 5 above. Simply look at your interest rate on your mortgage and then determine if you feel you can get a better guaranteed return by investing.

Eventually go back to step 1 and figure out not only how much you are spending but where you are spending. This will allow you to make better choices and be more nimble down the years as life changes come into play. It will also allow you to have a better model to track your retirement needs.

 
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Just noting that it may not be a great idea to build a 6-9 month emergency fund, if it means you are only paying the minimum on 18-19% credit cards with high balances.

 
Just noting that it may not be a great idea to build a 6-9 month emergency fund, if it means you are only paying the minimum on 18-19% credit cards with high balances.
I can't reconcile that one. I go back and forth but my conservativeness always leads me back to the protection of the emergency fund first.At the very worst, you can default on the credit cards, but an emergency fund may help you keep your house.
 
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Need to flip 2 and 3. Do a baby emergency fund first. $1000-$2000 until youre cc's are gone...Then build it up to 6-9 months.

 
Need to flip 2 and 3. Do a baby emergency fund first. $1000-$2000 until youre cc's are gone...Then build it up to 6-9 months.
ok this seems to be a good compromise.Lets say this, 1-2 months of emergency funds. Then clear out CC's, then pump emergency fund up to 6-9 months. I will edit the first post.
 
Just noting that it may not be a great idea to build a 6-9 month emergency fund, if it means you are only paying the minimum on 18-19% credit cards with high balances.
I can't reconcile that one. I go back and forth but my conservativeness always leads me back to the protection of the emergency fund first.At the very worst, you can default on the credit cards, but an emergency fund may help you keep your house.
Why wouldn't you pay off your credit cards first but not cancel them? That way, should an emergency arise before you've built up your emergency fund, you could use your credit card for that emergency. If no emergency arises, then at the end of the day you've paid less in interest.
 
Just noting that it may not be a great idea to build a 6-9 month emergency fund, if it means you are only paying the minimum on 18-19% credit cards with high balances.
I can't reconcile that one. I go back and forth but my conservativeness always leads me back to the protection of the emergency fund first.At the very worst, you can default on the credit cards, but an emergency fund may help you keep your house.
Why wouldn't you pay off your credit cards first but not cancel them? That way, should an emergency arise before you've built up your emergency fund, you could use your credit card for that emergency. If no emergency arises, then at the end of the day you've paid less in interest.
as someone who abhors debt, I do have a hard time even comprehending carrying a credit card debt to start with so I am very ignorant of the best way to handle them.Are you ok with the compromise of a small emergency fund first then clearing out the CC's before building up a real emergency fund?
 
Just noting that it may not be a great idea to build a 6-9 month emergency fund, if it means you are only paying the minimum on 18-19% credit cards with high balances.
I can't reconcile that one. I go back and forth but my conservativeness always leads me back to the protection of the emergency fund first.At the very worst, you can default on the credit cards, but an emergency fund may help you keep your house.
Why wouldn't you pay off your credit cards first but not cancel them? That way, should an emergency arise before you've built up your emergency fund, you could use your credit card for that emergency. If no emergency arises, then at the end of the day you've paid less in interest.
as someone who abhors debt, I do have a hard time even comprehending carrying a credit card debt to start with so I am very ignorant of the best way to handle them.Are you ok with the compromise of a small emergency fund first then clearing out the CC's before building up a real emergency fund?
I don't see the point of saving while you're paying a whole lot more in interest on your CC. Why can't you use your credit card for emergency fund purposes?
 
I don't see the point of saving while you're paying a whole lot more in interest on your CC. Why can't you use your credit card for emergency fund purposes?
I didn't realize that credit cards carried the limits needed for 6-9 months worth of bills (which for the average family can range anywhere from $36k to $45k).
 
You've missed one pretty important thing for people just starting out. Saving for/buying a house. Once you have a house (with equity) you dont really need a large emergency fund. You can use a HELOC for this. A few months of expenses, and putting something back for vacation is nice, but I dont consider an EF a necesity. I'd rather put extra money back for retirement.

 
5) Invest in your companies 401K/403B up to the point where you can get the full company match. If your company does not match, move on to step 5 before you invest in a 401k (assuming your company offers one).
I'd move this up to #2 or #3. You're automatically getting a 100% return with the company match, that's always going to beat a CC interest rate. Plus it starts to teach you to live below your means.
 
You've missed one pretty important thing for people just starting out. Saving for/buying a house. Once you have a house (with equity) you dont really need a large emergency fund. You can use a HELOC for this. A few months of expenses, and putting something back for vacation is nice, but I dont consider an EF a necesity. I'd rather put extra money back for retirement.
With housing prices falling in the majority of the country and many people starting to experience the pain of an upside down mortgage, I am not sure your approach is all that conservative, but I do understand it.I should have mentioned in the first post that it was assumed that one already had a home. I will add that note.
 
as someone who abhors debt, I do have a hard time even comprehending carrying a credit card debt to start with so I am very ignorant of the best way to handle them.

Are you ok with the compromise of a small emergency fund first then clearing out the CC's before building up a real emergency fund?
Always knew you were a commie, Andy. While I don't think someone should live paycheck to paycheck, I would think it would be more advisable to clear cc debt before worrying about an emergency fund.

You've missed one pretty important thing for people just starting out. Saving for/buying a house. Once you have a house (with equity) you dont really need a large emergency fund. You can use a HELOC for this. A few months of expenses, and putting something back for vacation is nice, but I dont consider an EF a necesity. I'd rather put extra money back for retirement.
Not all states allow homeowners to tap into their equity. An emergency fund should be considered here before putting more money into retirement imo.
 
4) Build up full emergency fund - Put 6-9 months worth of expenses into a safe, liquid vehicle (ie money market). If you are less likely to be out of work for a long time, then you can shoot for the low end (6 months), if you are more likely to be out of work for a long period of time (or are the sole bread winner), shoot for the higher monthly time frame (9 months).
I actually have done this and I went to 12 months. I just put equal amounts in 12 month CDs. On June 1st, I will have completed my 12 months and won't have to add any more. I'm pretty happy about that. Getting a decent return and I can just forget about it unless something happens that I need that money. Probably more than is necessary but I know that I can go a full year without working and pay my house, car, and eat.
6) If you qualify for a Roth IRA, fund it for the legal limit. If you don't qualify for a Roth, move on to step 6.
Not sure I agree with this one. With momentum building for the Fair Tax, the incentive for Roths is a lot less in my mind. I'm not sure I'm particularly on board that a Roth > Traditional anyway, but add in the risk of the Fair Tax and I definitely flip 6 and 7 on your list.
8) If you don't qualify for a Roth, max out a traditional IRA to the legal limit
Not sure how you can qualify for a traditional and not a Roth. Doesn't a Roth have higher limits?
For more conservative investors, you can also pay down your house mortgage, which you could factor in any time after step 4 above. Simply look at your interest rate on your mortgage and then determine if you feel you can get a better guaranteed return by investing.
It's not as simple as this. You are actually getting less than your Mortgage rate on paying it down because you lose that tax write off. There are a lot of factors to compare investing vs paying down the mortgage (rate, marginal tax bracket, etc). In most cases, you are probably better off investing right now (assuming you refi'd in the last couple of years - and if you haven't, you should).
 
5) Invest in your companies 401K/403B up to the point where you can get the full company match. If your company does not match, move on to step 5 before you invest in a 401k (assuming your company offers one).
I'd move this up to #2 or #3. You're automatically getting a 100% return with the company match, that's always going to beat a CC interest rate. Plus it starts to teach you to live below your means.
Initially that is exactly where I had it.Then my conservative nature took over and I wanted all debt removed. I have some serious problems of negatively looking at debt.
 
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Not sure how you can qualify for a traditional and not a Roth. Doesn't a Roth have higher limits?
A traditional IRA has no income limitsA roth is income limited to ~$95K for an individual and ~$160k for married filing jointly (AGI)

http://beginnersinvest.about.com/cs/iras/f/tradvsrothira.htm

It's not as simple as this. You are actually getting less than your Mortgage rate on paying it down because you lose that tax write off.
But you also have to factor in the taxes on the investments as well. I do agree that in todays mortgage market that you would likely do better investing.

Although speaking as someone who paid of his house at 31 years old, I can tell you there was no better feeling in the world.

 
when you are finished with your document i would like a copy :no: :popcorn:
gferrell - some of your posts indicate you're a Christian. I have this stuff in a Word document with the Bible verses to back it up.Send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll send it to you.
 
Although speaking as someone who paid of his house at 31 years old, I can tell you there was no better feeling in the world.
So if you don't have a mortgage or rent, it seems like your monthly bills would be pretty low and your "emergency fund" wouldn't have to be that large.I can't imagine saving up enough money in an emergency fund to pay all my bills for 9 months.
 
So if you don't have a mortgage or rent, it seems like your monthly bills would be pretty low and your "emergency fund" wouldn't have to be that large.
That is correct. Once we paid off our house, we lowered our cash on hand since our monthly bills were lowered on average.We still keep a very healthy amount in cash, but no where near as much as we used to have.
 
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Just noting that it may not be a great idea to build a 6-9 month emergency fund, if it means you are only paying the minimum on 18-19% credit cards with high balances.
I can't reconcile that one. I go back and forth but my conservativeness always leads me back to the protection of the emergency fund first.At the very worst, you can default on the credit cards, but an emergency fund may help you keep your house.
Why wouldn't you pay off your credit cards first but not cancel them? That way, should an emergency arise before you've built up your emergency fund, you could use your credit card for that emergency. If no emergency arises, then at the end of the day you've paid less in interest.
If you pay off your credit cards, don't cancel them. Your credit rating will suffer. You want to have credit (cards) available to you but not maxed out on them. Agree you should work to pay the balance off each month.
 
Not sure how you can qualify for a traditional and not a Roth. Doesn't a Roth have higher limits?
A traditional IRA has no income limitsA roth is income limited to ~$95K for an individual and ~$160k for married filing jointly (AGI)

http://beginnersinvest.about.com/cs/iras/f/tradvsrothira.htm

It's not as simple as this. You are actually getting less than your Mortgage rate on paying it down because you lose that tax write off.
But you also have to factor in the taxes on the investments as well. I do agree that in todays mortgage market that you would likely do better investing.

Although speaking as someone who paid of his house at 31 years old, I can tell you there was no better feeling in the world.
This is incorrect. I want to say it is something like 60k AGI (your link even says depending on income). However, you can always contribute after-tax dollars to it with no restrictions. But if this is what you are talking about then there is no legal limit.
 
So if you don't have a mortgage or rent, it seems like your monthly bills would be pretty low and your "emergency fund" wouldn't have to be that large.
That is correct. Once we paid off our house, we lowered our cash on hand since our monthly bills were lowered on average.We still keep a very healthy amount in cash, but no where near as much as we used to have.
OK, well, it seems like you're already in good financial shape. But your advice probably isn't very practical for most people.
 
Not a bad start. However, when it comes to investing, there is never one strategy that fits everyone. Depending upon your particular circumstances, the optimal sequence could be very different.

For example, in a dual income home with multiple children, the child tax credit is a big issue. At $110K AGI, it begins to disappear. The easiest way to lower AGI is to contribute to your 401K. On top of the tax deferral, you essentially get 5% of your contributions returned when you file your taxes.

If your AGI starts moving up towards ~$160K, your itemized deductions may start to get reduced, so you start losing some of the deduction from your mortgage interest.

Then, there is the Alternative Minimum Tax. Again, the best way to fight that may be by lowering your AGI.

401K funds also vary greatly in performance. If your company has a crappy 401K program, it may not be worth putting in more than the minimum to max the company match. My company had its 401K program with Fleet several years ago. It was absolutely awful. They have since switched to Fidelty and added some other 5 star Morningstar-rated funds. I am very happy with its performance.

The decision between a Roth and traditional IRA is also very dependent on the individual. Will the person be in a higher or lower tax bracket at retirement? Will the tax laws change? Does the person feel they may need the principal at some time in the future?

Bottom line. Everyone needs to do their own due diligence and figure out a strategy that makes sense for them. And, I woudl highly recommend doing the research yourself. A financial advisor could make recommendations, but what about 10 years from now when he is long gone and you're trying to figure out what the hell is going on with your investments?

 
when you are finished with your document i would like a copy :P :lmao:
gferrell - some of your posts indicate you're a Christian. I have this stuff in a Word document with the Bible verses to back it up.Send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll send it to you.
Research some Dave Ramsey stuff(torrentspy). It may be of interest to you. Unless that's what you're sending him...
 
Not sure how you can qualify for a traditional and not a Roth. Doesn't a Roth have higher limits?
A traditional IRA has no income limitsA roth is income limited to ~$95K for an individual and ~$160k for married filing jointly (AGI)

http://beginnersinvest.about.com/cs/iras/f/tradvsrothira.htm

It's not as simple as this. You are actually getting less than your Mortgage rate on paying it down because you lose that tax write off.
But you also have to factor in the taxes on the investments as well. I do agree that in todays mortgage market that you would likely do better investing.

Although speaking as someone who paid of his house at 31 years old, I can tell you there was no better feeling in the world.
This is incorrect. I want to say it is something like 60k AGI (your link even says depending on income). However, you can always contribute after-tax dollars to it with no restrictions. But if this is what you are talking about then there is no legal limit.
I neve understood the concept of contributing after tax dollars to a traditional IRA. You could easily invest in stocks or mutual funds with a DRIP and avoid paying taxes until you need the money. It provides you with:1. The liquidity to take the money out at any time without penalty.

2. When you take it out, you are likely to pay capital gains tax rates (assuming you hold onto the stock/fund for a year) of 15% vs. regular earnings rates of 25-31%

 
6) If you qualify for a Roth IRA, fund it for the legal limit. If you don't qualify for a Roth, move on to step 6.
Help! I am stuck in an endless loop.
 
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when you are finished with your document i would like a copy :) :goodposting:
gferrell - some of your posts indicate you're a Christian. I have this stuff in a Word document with the Bible verses to back it up.Send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll send it to you.
Research some Dave Ramsey stuff(torrentspy). It may be of interest to you. Unless that's what you're sending him...
It's actually Ron Blue. I have read some (not much of Dave's stuff). Ron Blue's delivery fits my personality better.The stuff I offered to send is actually a class I teach based on Ron's book - Master Your Money. He gave me permission to use his material.I do appreciate your input. Good recommendation.
 
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This is incorrect. I want to say it is something like 60k AGI (your link even says depending on income). However, you can always contribute after-tax dollars to it with no restrictions. But if this is what you are talking about then there is no legal limit.
I was referring to using a traditional ira in a non tax dedeuctable mode. If you use a 401k plan, I don't believe you can use a traditional ira as a tax deduction.
 
I neve understood the concept of contributing after tax dollars to a traditional IRA. You could easily invest in stocks or mutual funds with a DRIP and avoid paying taxes until you need the money.
How does one avoid paying taxes on capital gain distributions and dividends from mutual funds that are not in a retirement umbrella?
 
So if you don't have a mortgage or rent, it seems like your monthly bills would be pretty low and your "emergency fund" wouldn't have to be that large.
That is correct. Once we paid off our house, we lowered our cash on hand since our monthly bills were lowered on average.We still keep a very healthy amount in cash, but no where near as much as we used to have.
OK, well, it seems like you're already in good financial shape. But your advice probably isn't very practical for most people.
In your opinion of course. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: If you go to pretty much any financial web site, you will find similar thoughts. I am just trying to put them in the proper order (even though their is some subjectivity in the order itself)

 
Bottom line. Everyone needs to do their own due diligence and figure out a strategy that makes sense for them. And, I woudl highly recommend doing the research yourself. A financial advisor could make recommendations, but what about 10 years from now when he is long gone and you're trying to figure out what the hell is going on with your investments?
This is probably the best advice in the thread.
Not a bad start. However, when it comes to investing, there is never one strategy that fits everyone.
Agreed, thats why the initial post was qualified with"This guide is not meant to be one stop shopping for everyone, but more of a general feel."
 
OK, well, it seems like you're already in good financial shape. But your advice probably isn't very practical for most people.
In your opinion of course. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: If you go to pretty much any financial web site, you will find similar thoughts. I am just trying to put them in the proper order (even though their is some subjectivity in the order itself)
I'm just saying that the vast majority of people are not in a financial position to set up a 9 month "emergency fund" or do a lot of the things you suggest because they have a large housing expense that they need to deal with each month. Your advice may be sound for someone in your position -- I'm just saying there aren't a lot of folks in your position.
 
I neve understood the concept of contributing after tax dollars to a traditional IRA. You could easily invest in stocks or mutual funds with a DRIP and avoid paying taxes until you need the money.
How does one avoid paying taxes on capital gain distributions and dividends from mutual funds that are not in a retirement umbrella?
You don't pay taxes on the appreciation until you sell. As long as you don't plan on doing a lot of trading, you won't pay taxes until you cash out, presumably at retirement. I guess the IRA does give you the option of exchanging between funds without having to declare a gain. However, with a regular account, if your funds have a bad year, you can cash out, take the deduction, and reinvest (after 30 days to avoid wash rules).
 
This is incorrect. I want to say it is something like 60k AGI (your link even says depending on income). However, you can always contribute after-tax dollars to it with no restrictions. But if this is what you are talking about then there is no legal limit.
I was referring to using a traditional ira in a non tax dedeuctable mode. If you use a 401k plan, I don't believe you can use a traditional ira as a tax deduction.
Well, then I don't believe there is any limit to how much you can contribute after-tax so it doesn't make a lot of sense as written ("max it out"). And this is probably not very good advice for most people. There are a lot of good ways to invest even if your tax bracket is exceptionally high (which it is if you don't qualify for a Roth) without putting the constraints on yourself like an IRA does. I certainly wouldn't put this in for anyone before a 529 or about 5 other options. In addition, unless your spending habits are exceptionally high or you are relatively close to retirement and haven't done much towards your 401k historically, you are probably overinvesting in retirement if you max your 401k every year AND add in additional funds after-tax to an IRA. Retirement is all fine and good but it doesn't make sense to sock so much away before a college fund. So even if this is what you meant, it's in the wrong order for at least 99% of people.

 
You don't pay taxes on the appreciation until you sell. As long as you don't plan on doing a lot of trading, you won't pay taxes until you cash out, presumably at retirement. I guess the IRA does give you the option of exchanging between funds without having to declare a gain. However, with a regular account, if your funds have a bad year, you can cash out, take the deduction, and reinvest (after 30 days to avoid wash rules).
I don't think you answered my question.How do you avoid paying taxes on capital gains distributions and dividends that most mutual funds generate multiple times a year?Don't confuse this will selling your mutual fund, it has nothing to do with that.I have been holding some mutual funds for a deace now, have never sold them but I pay taxes on the distributions (1099) every year. Can you tell me how you are getting around this?
 
Not sure how you can qualify for a traditional and not a Roth. Doesn't a Roth have higher limits?
A traditional IRA has no income limitsA roth is income limited to ~$95K for an individual and ~$160k for married filing jointly (AGI)

http://beginnersinvest.about.com/cs/iras/f/tradvsrothira.htm

It's not as simple as this. You are actually getting less than your Mortgage rate on paying it down because you lose that tax write off.
But you also have to factor in the taxes on the investments as well. I do agree that in todays mortgage market that you would likely do better investing.

Although speaking as someone who paid of his house at 31 years old, I can tell you there was no better feeling in the world.
That's awesome. Please tell us how you pulled that off.
 
So if you don't have a mortgage or rent, it seems like your monthly bills would be pretty low and your "emergency fund" wouldn't have to be that large.
That is correct. Once we paid off our house, we lowered our cash on hand since our monthly bills were lowered on average.We still keep a very healthy amount in cash, but no where near as much as we used to have.
OK, well, it seems like you're already in good financial shape. But your advice probably isn't very practical for most people.
The guy paid off his home at 31 and has emergency funds for an entire year. His advice is exactly the kind we need to hear.
 
Well, then I don't believe there is any limit to how much you can contribute after-tax so it doesn't make a lot of sense as written ("max it out").
Of course their is a max.For a non deductable traditional IRA its $4000 this year and will soon be $5000.Traditional IRA's grow tax deferred. There is no way the government would ever allow these to be unlimited.
 
You don't pay taxes on the appreciation until you sell. As long as you don't plan on doing a lot of trading, you won't pay taxes until you cash out, presumably at retirement. I guess the IRA does give you the option of exchanging between funds without having to declare a gain. However, with a regular account, if your funds have a bad year, you can cash out, take the deduction, and reinvest (after 30 days to avoid wash rules).
I don't think you answered my question.How do you avoid paying taxes on capital gains distributions and dividends that most mutual funds generate multiple times a year?Don't confuse this will selling your mutual fund, it has nothing to do with that.I have been holding some mutual funds for a deace now, have never sold them but I pay taxes on the distributions (1099) every year. Can you tell me how you are getting around this?
If it helps, you can buy stocks that do not pay dividends and you aren't paying taxes on those. I've held some Cisco for about 10 years and have never paid any taxes on it. Depends on the stock. I also think there are some low-turnover (for this exact reason) mutual funds out there. You will have to pay some, but mostly they are looking to avoid capital gains.
 
Well, then I don't believe there is any limit to how much you can contribute after-tax so it doesn't make a lot of sense as written ("max it out").
Of course their is a max.For a non deductable traditional IRA its $4000 this year and will soon be $5000.Traditional IRA's grow tax deferred. There is no way the government would ever allow these to be unlimited.
the max is for pre-tax contributions.
 
I'm just saying that the vast majority of people are not in a financial position to set up a 9 month "emergency fund" or do a lot of the things you suggest because they have a large housing expense that they need to deal with each month. Your advice may be sound for someone in your position -- I'm just saying there aren't a lot of folks in your position.
I am in my position because I have been thinking about money since I was in high school.Every step along the way I have tried very hard to research and do the correct thing specifically starting with keeping my expenses down, which directly led to my being able to prepay my house quickly.I believe that too many people take your approach of "poor me" with finances and then simply ignore them, which only compounds their problems instead of facing them.
 
I'm just saying that the vast majority of people are not in a financial position to set up a 9 month "emergency fund" or do a lot of the things you suggest because they have a large housing expense that they need to deal with each month. Your advice may be sound for someone in your position -- I'm just saying there aren't a lot of folks in your position.
I am in my position because I have been thinking about money since I was in high school.Every step along the way I have tried very hard to research and do the correct thing specifically starting with keeping my expenses down, which directly led to my being able to prepay my house quickly.I believe that too many people take your approach of "poor me" with finances and then simply ignore them, which only compounds their problems instead of facing them.
I wouldn't describe my approach as "poor me." But if you feel like throwing a few bucks my way, i wouldn't turn it down.
 
You don't pay taxes on the appreciation until you sell. As long as you don't plan on doing a lot of trading, you won't pay taxes until you cash out, presumably at retirement. I guess the IRA does give you the option of exchanging between funds without having to declare a gain. However, with a regular account, if your funds have a bad year, you can cash out, take the deduction, and reinvest (after 30 days to avoid wash rules).
I don't think you answered my question.How do you avoid paying taxes on capital gains distributions and dividends that most mutual funds generate multiple times a year?

Don't confuse this will selling your mutual fund, it has nothing to do with that.

I have been holding some mutual funds for a deace now, have never sold them but I pay taxes on the distributions (1099) every year.

Can you tell me how you are getting around this?
That's why I put the line in there about having a DRIP. Dividends are directly reinvested so as to avoid defer paying taxes on the gains.
 
Well, then I don't believe there is any limit to how much you can contribute after-tax so it doesn't make a lot of sense as written ("max it out").
Of course their is a max.For a non deductable traditional IRA its $4000 this year and will soon be $5000.

Traditional IRA's grow tax deferred. There is no way the government would ever allow these to be unlimited.
the max is for pre-tax contributions.
1) There is no such thing as a pre-tax contribution to an traditional ira2) If you make under a certain amount and/or you don't use a 401k, you may qualify for a tax deduction

3) Whether you qualify for the tax deduction or not, the limit is $4000k this year

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Traditional_IRA

 
If it helps, you can buy stocks that do not pay dividends and you aren't paying taxes on those. I've held some Cisco for about 10 years and have never paid any taxes on it. Depends on the stock. I also think there are some low-turnover (for this exact reason) mutual funds out there. You will have to pay some, but mostly they are looking to avoid capital gains.
yes I realize this but I don't believe in stock picking. I don't have enough knowledge to do that.I prefer to use mutual funds with good history in both up and down markets.I find it much easier to research a mutual fund manager than to research a company.
 

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