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About matttyl

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  1. Great info all around with the Asus mesh (called AImesh), which is what I use at my house. I did so because I already had an asus router, so I just had to buy another (used) and was able to use the pair as a mesh system - and can expand later if needed with additional routers used as nodes. On the wired vs the wireless, you can connect them wired, but they might still be used wirlessly. Think about it, the max wired transfer speeds is 1,000 mbps - but your routers have a max wireless speed of 4,800 mbps between them (mine are 2,900). So the wireless route might be faster than wired - but AI mesh will make that call for you with whatever it finds to be better. On your modem question - My current modem, and even my previous modem were both personally owned to save the rental fee from xfinity. Heck, my current one I purchased used off facebook for $20 and only needed a 10 minute phone call to comcast to give them the information off of it to get it set up. Had zero issues with either one. The vast majority of networking issues are from routers, not modems (which is another reason to use two separate devices). At worst unplugging the modem and plugging it back in once every few months what as it needed. What's the model of modem you have now? Modems (based on the number of channels that they have) have a limit on how fast they can operate. Mine theoretically tops out at 686 mbps, but my service tier is only ~230 so it's no issue and has room to go faster if I wanted. You have to see what's actually offered in your area (they don't offer "gig speed" everywhere), and then honestly ask yourself if you need that much speed. My wife works from home, we often are streaming video to multiple devices simultaneously, and we never have any issue at our current speed.
  2. Buy your own modem. Will save you money.
  3. Ok, reason I ask is that some companies have routers that you can use in a mesh system - I have that with my asus routers. Not sure if Linksys does or not, and if it's an older router it may not make sense to do it anyway.
  4. Those two don't seem to go together. Yeah, a mesh system is what you need - and would replace your extender as well as the primary router. What is your primary router?
  5. There's other parts I don't agree with as well. Some will say "most of those guns also will take a 10 round magazine", but that's just extra hassle and expense in my mind.
  6. Yes, anything over 12. Now considered an "assault weapon"
  7. Bill passed house yesterday. Lots in it, but if passed, it would now be a crime to purchase or even posses a standard Glock19.
  8. I guess I need to clean out my messages, my bad. I can't give you a hard and fast rule as all carriers are different. Some have a set rule in place for build (built around BMI), while others might use a "point system" where you get a point for your BMI being under 30, and then another point if your BMI is under 25, and then various other points for stuff like family history, blood pressure, cholesterol, not many points gets you standard, a few more get you preferred, and maybe a few more get you their best class. And not all carriers have the same number of health classifications either. I'll use me as an example - I'm 5'11". With one carrier, if my weight were between 227-247 I'd qualify for their standard rates - between 206-226 I'd qualify for their preferred, and 205 and under I'd qualify for their premier class. They have a hard and fast rule - so right off the bat I know my best class. With another carrier who uses points, you get one point if your BMI is under 30 (216 pounds for me), and another if it's under 25 (180 for me) - but you can still technically get the best rating on your policy without either of those points, assuming you get all the other points. They also have a hard rule that the highest weight you can get at 5'11" to get standard is 272, and the highest for preferred would be 250. I know that's a lot of numbers, but it should give you an idea of what you'd be looking at. Having a BMI under 28 would be best, but under 30 you should be ok.
  9. And what if you passed away? You’d give your family $150k (likely taxable), rather than $500k tax free? Funny, you even bolded it and then didn’t use the right math. You wouldn’t be “investing” the entire $5k, only the additional premium over what the term is (which I understand is most of it). The bottom of the paragraph you bolded a portion of says it pretty clearly - 4.5% tax free ROR. No, that likely won’t beat the market over a few decades, I never said it would. But considering the average equity investor earned 5.19% from 1995-2015, it’s not bad. For a totally liquid and safe emergency fund, it’s pretty decent. No one is saying (or at least I’m not) to do permanent life coverage instead of equities. You can do both.
  10. Many carriers have a maximum BMI for the best rate and/or any standard rates. Thats totally separate from family history, personal factors, and other things. DM if you like and I’ll pull some of those tables up for you.
  11. Not really. Especially with family coverage.
  12. Understood, but you can "invest" in a simple money market or something similar.
  13. Very high from what I've seen. Most are $1-2k base, invest the rest.