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About Garrett

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  1. A very heavy scent of Milorganite today...2nd spring app...
  3. If you want to be sure what the problem is get a soil test. If you want to take some simple steps likely to help quite a bit... Put down starter fertilizer ( and Milorganite ( at the recommended rate on the bag ASAP. Start mowing 3"+ and more often; then report back in 3-4 weeks.
  4. I always apply a very light layer of it on new seed. I really don't know if it makes a huge difference, but it certainly doesn't seem to hurt and it is relatively cheap. The only suggestion I have would be to not apply it to heavily.
  5. It's already been mentioned multiple times in this thread, but along with the watering suggestions you might review what height you are mowing the grass at; especially if it's going into dormancy or just looking below average when the heat of summer reaches its peak. There probably isn't a single thing more helpful in making your lawn look good than mowing taller than your neighbors.
  6. Commish is right, less often and deeper watering is better than frequent watering because you want the roots to adapt/grow deeper into the soil. If your lawn needs an inch of water a week, it's much better to get that inch of water in a single or worst case two waterings than .25 inch four times that week. That all goes out the window during seeding/overseeding though since you have to keep the new seeds from drying out.
  7. Yeah, I would try to identify what types you have growing now and plan to match those. Based on your location, I assume it's all cool season grasses. For full sun KBG is hard to beat and it has the added advantage of being one of the few (only?) cool season grasses that actually spreads on its own.
  8. Yeah, sounds steep. I am not really familiar with warm season grasses, but, just for comparison, you can get premium all KBG or KBG/TTTF sod here for $200 per 1,000sf. That just the sod, meaning you do all the prep and install it yourself.
  9. You are getting an amazing deal to have all that done for $500.
  10. Sounds good. What type of seed are they going to put down for you?
  11. Depending on the terrain and if it's real prep for seed and not just "the yard is clear now"; that's fair.
  12. Glyphosate.
  13. You guys are either not getting enough pre emergent down or you are getting it down too late. It absolutely works. If you live anywhere near the midwest is a great tool Michigan State runs that monitors soil temps and you can set up alerts based on your zip code to let you know when to get down the spring pre emergent. If you want a little bit of a fail safe, check out product using Dimension (Dithiopyr) as it provides complete pre emergent as well as post emergent control for early stage crab grass.
  14. All you really care about is the listed ingredients and their concentrations; liquid is generally better for weed control as it is going to get more contact with the weeds. There is little difference among the common big box brand name options though. If you want to improve results more you can get a cheap pump sprayer and use a surfactant as well for better adhesion to weeds. Surfactants sound weird at first but just think of it as baby shampoo that is going to help with surface tension and sticking the effective chemicals to the problem plants. Regarding toxicity, use common sense. When spraying/applying anything wear long pants/long shirts/gloves. Don't let anyone on it for an hour. That's plenty of precaution to feel very safe after those 60 minutes are up.
  15. In general you are right. You can use something like Tenacity during over seeding or new seeding, but it's not cheap.