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Mortgage Rates (5 Viewers)

Have rates been up or down in the past month or so? About a month ago locked in a 30 year high balance conforming at 4.875% but I'm wondering if things have dropped and if I can get a better rate from them before we close in a couple weeks?

 
Have rates been up or down in the past month or so? About a month ago locked in a 30 year high balance conforming at 4.875% but I'm wondering if things have dropped and if I can get a better rate from them before we close in a couple weeks?
I think 15s continue their downward march. They are begging you to take it.
 
Have rates been up or down in the past month or so? About a month ago locked in a 30 year high balance conforming at 4.875% but I'm wondering if things have dropped and if I can get a better rate from them before we close in a couple weeks?
I got 4.75% 30 year with zero points a week and a half ago when there was a 3-4 day stretch where the bond yield dipped. I had my broker watching constantly and as soon as it hit 4.75 with no points, I locked. I see that things have creeped for the bad recently to where you'd get 4.875% or have to pay points for 4.75%. So it's probably not much different from where you locked.
 
Have rates been up or down in the past month or so? About a month ago locked in a 30 year high balance conforming at 4.875% but I'm wondering if things have dropped and if I can get a better rate from them before we close in a couple weeks?
I got 4.75% 30 year with zero points a week and a half ago when there was a 3-4 day stretch where the bond yield dipped. I had my broker watching constantly and as soon as it hit 4.75 with no points, I locked. I see that things have creeped for the bad recently to where you'd get 4.875% or have to pay points for 4.75%. So it's probably not much different from where you locked.
was it just a gut feel to tell him to watch for the 4.75?
 
Have rates been up or down in the past month or so? About a month ago locked in a 30 year high balance conforming at 4.875% but I'm wondering if things have dropped and if I can get a better rate from them before we close in a couple weeks?
I got 4.75% 30 year with zero points a week and a half ago when there was a 3-4 day stretch where the bond yield dipped. I had my broker watching constantly and as soon as it hit 4.75 with no points, I locked. I see that things have creeped for the bad recently to where you'd get 4.875% or have to pay points for 4.75%. So it's probably not much different from where you locked.
Ok thanks.
 
With rates tanking the last few weeks I am looking to refinance. Does anyone have thoughts on whether to lock in now or do you think they will continue to fall? Also if there are any FBG brokers in NJ who can get me a good rate send me a PM.

 
Rates have in fact come down to lows we were at last year. I've seen an up tick in my refinance inquires this past week.

With no points you should be able to lock in a 30yr rate on average 4.5% and a 15 yr at around 3.625% with good credit, equity and loan amount above 150K. Make sure when you inquire to get a itemization of closing costs break down.

Not knowing your information such as how many years into your current mortgage and your current rate you want to make sure the refinance makes sense, if it does I would not wait for rates to come down any more for they can easily go up.

 
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My closing is set for Monday for a 10 year ARM at 4.35%. Will me and my family be a #### if I opt out and chase a lower rate right now? Assuming the bank is getting the rate for lower than they planned on me, they're making all profit off of the difference now; right?

 
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My closing is set for Monday for a 10 year ARM at 4.35%. Will me and my family be a #### if I opt out and chase a lower rate right now? Assuming the bank is getting the rate for lower than they planned on me, they're making all profit off of the difference now; right?
is that conforming? I getting at jumbo at 4.25, but only 7 yr ARM. I am pretty sure we can pay it off by then, but 10 year would be more comfortable.
 
My closing is set for Monday for a 10 year ARM at 4.35%. Will me and my family be a #### if I opt out and chase a lower rate right now? Assuming the bank is getting the rate for lower than they planned on me, they're making all profit off of the difference now; right?
is that conforming?

I getting at jumbo at 4.25, but only 7 yr ARM. I am pretty sure we can pay it off by then, but 10 year would be more comfortable.
What's conforming mean?
 
My closing is set for Monday for a 10 year ARM at 4.35%. Will me and my family be a #### if I opt out and chase a lower rate right now? Assuming the bank is getting the rate for lower than they planned on me, they're making all profit off of the difference now; right?
is that conforming?

I getting at jumbo at 4.25, but only 7 yr ARM. I am pretty sure we can pay it off by then, but 10 year would be more comfortable.
What's conforming mean?
conforming means not jumbo.
 
My closing is set for Monday for a 10 year ARM at 4.35%. Will me and my family be a #### if I opt out and chase a lower rate right now? Assuming the bank is getting the rate for lower than they planned on me, they're making all profit off of the difference now; right?
is that conforming?

I getting at jumbo at 4.25, but only 7 yr ARM. I am pretty sure we can pay it off by then, but 10 year would be more comfortable.
What's conforming mean?
conforming means not jumbo.
Gotcha...then yes, it's not jumbo. 10 year ARM (amortized over 30 years).
 
Conforming is 417K or less loan amount. Jumbo non-conforming is anything above that.

Tiger Fan

It all depends on what your closing costs are, but 4.375% on a 10/1 ARM is not bad as long as your not paying points associated with it. Remember you more then likely have a 3 day right of recession which means you can cancel within in 3 business day after closing. Review your closing documents.

 
Hey everybody, just saw this thread and thought this would be a good place to get a honest, straightforward answer from people I trust more than a random mortgage broker. Been considering re-fi for awhile now, but need some good advice before I take the plunge.

OK, so background on me without being super-specific: I make all my monthly payments on time, great credit, no credit card debt, not alot of ancillary debt, etc. Almost 6 months pay in savings (getting ready to start looking into more serious investing after that), and do some solid investing via 401k and stock subscription at work.

I closed on my 1 bedroom apartment in May 2008 (right before the plunge). 10% down, pay PMI since I'm not at 20%, interest rate 6.125% 30 yr fixed. Was good at the time, but makes me cringe right now to even type that. I would've jumped on this sooner, but I'm a casualty of the plummeting FMV of my property with the market. I apparently owe more than the property is currently worth, even with a perfect payment history, etc.

Need some advice here. Will be out of the country next 3 weeks for work, but on vacation after that for 2 where I can spend some time to really deep dive and investigate. PM me if you're in NJ and have any advice. Sorry for the novella but I feel like that gets the whole story out there, and appreciate any PM's in advance.

 
mq - what advice are you looking for?

Give some numbers. How much of your home's current value do you owe? Over 90-100%?

Could your saving pays it down to 80%?

If so, I would think you should consider the re-fi. With the current rates and if you could lose the PMI insurance, I doubt your payments would be much more than they are now.

GO ahead and talk to a broker now. You can lock in a rate with no real commitment, so you ahve it in your pocket, if u decide to do it. Its not that hard ot apply. Couple years tax records, couple months bank statements, etc. Should only take a few hours to get it all together. I'll send u the PM of a broker I've been working with who seems pretty upfrant and honest.

 
This is me:

Currently in a 3/2 first home, our loan is a 30 year fixed at 5.25%. Both of our credit scores are in the 800 range, one kid with plans for one more.

So the eventual plan is to move into a 4-bedroom in about 3-5 years. Should we refi? Should we take something shorter than a 30 year fixed given that we're going to move?

 
I just got my ARM rate for the next 12 months.2.5% :lol:
people really agree to ARM's?
Every loan I've ever had. No need to pay an excessive rate for a product one doesn't need. I guess if you're planning on staying in the same house for 30 years a fixed rate mortgage might get a look. Just recently ran the numbers on a 10/1 arm v. a 30 yr fixed and the worst case scenario at max bumps still puts me ahead with the ARM past 15 yrs.
 
Those of you w/o much equity or somewhat upside down may want to look at the MHA program for a re-fi. It's a stated income, no appraisal federal program. You'll have to go through your current lender and the original loan has to be freddy or fanny as I understand it.

 
I just got my ARM rate for the next 12 months.2.5% :lol:
people really agree to ARM's?
Every loan I've ever had. No need to pay an excessive rate for a product one doesn't need. I guess if you're planning on staying in the same house for 30 years a fixed rate mortgage might get a look. Just recently ran the numbers on a 10/1 arm v. a 30 yr fixed and the worst case scenario at max bumps still puts me ahead with the ARM past 15 yrs.
Yeah, I had a 30year at 5.5% and we had a personal goal of paying off the house as soon as possible. Once I ran the #s, I figured with the 30 year, we could pay it off in about 9 years. I ran the 4.375% 10 year ARM and that got the payoff period down to 7 years. So I lowered my monthly pmt and bought myself 3 extra years in case anything happens. No brainer for me.
 
Conforming is 417K or less loan amount. Jumbo non-conforming is anything above that.Tiger FanIt all depends on what your closing costs are, but 4.375% on a 10/1 ARM is not bad as long as your not paying points associated with it. Remember you more then likely have a 3 day right of recession which means you can cancel within in 3 business day after closing. Review your closing documents.
No Points and about $2500 closing on a 192k loan
 
'Good said:
This is me:Currently in a 3/2 first home, our loan is a 30 year fixed at 5.25%. Both of our credit scores are in the 800 range, one kid with plans for one more.So the eventual plan is to move into a 4-bedroom in about 3-5 years. Should we refi? Should we take something shorter than a 30 year fixed given that we're going to move?
You have five houses?
 
'Good said:
This is me:Currently in a 3/2 first home, our loan is a 30 year fixed at 5.25%. Both of our credit scores are in the 800 range, one kid with plans for one more.So the eventual plan is to move into a 4-bedroom in about 3-5 years. Should we refi? Should we take something shorter than a 30 year fixed given that we're going to move?
You have five houses?
Yes.
 
Perhaps a dumb question, but have 2 mortgages. Last year, I was able (I'm actually not sure how) to refinance my primary mortgage, and got my rate down to about 5.30%. Since I locked down that rate, interest rates had fallen even more. Now, a year later, is there any harm in checking to see if I'm able to refinance down to a lower rate? Also, for my 2nd mortgage, is it likely they would allow a refinance on that loan? That loan has a higher interest rate.

 
With the sell off in the Dow and Fridays employment numbers it is for sure time to take a look at refinancing. 30 year fixed are hitting around 4.375% and 15 yr around 3.375%. Never thought we'd get this low.

 
With the sell off in the Dow and Fridays employment numbers it is for sure time to take a look at refinancing. 30 year fixed are hitting around 4.375% and 15 yr around 3.375%. Never thought we'd get this low.
Do you mean again/this year? :confused: I closed last November on a 30 year at 4.25% with no points (lucky on my timing).

 
Is there any way at all to get pre-approved at a decent rate if you have questionable credit but a solid, proven (at least mine) income and enough of a down payment to hit 20% (or close)?

Both my wife and I went through periods of unemployment when the market first went sour, but I've been at my present job for 2+ years and she's been back at work for around 3 months (pretty stable as well, or as stable as a job can be in these times). Our credit scores took a big hit while we were unemployed, and we're working on repairing them. We need to move into a bigger house for the kids, though, and have been looking a lot since housing prices have tumbled so low.

Due to the market situation we've been able to find sub-$200k houses that used to be $300k+ and are plenty of house for us, but we're not confident we'd be able to get pre-approved. We have enough for a 20% down payment thanks to her parents, and our combined incomes are easily enough to cover both a new mortgage and the mortgage on my townhouse until I rent it out. Townhouses in my development are usually rented within 3-4 weeks since it's very popular and renting has become the way to go during the tough market we're in. Even if the townhouse didn't rent out, we make enough to cover both mortgages for a good year or so.

So - are we SOL in terms of getting pre-approved? If not, will we get some astronomical APR? Are there ways to get pre-approved that are easier than others (more lenient brokers, etc.)? Or should we consider renting for now since our credit isn't top-notch? The houses we've looked at are more than nice enough to live in for a long time, big enough for our family, etc., so we wouldn't be planning on moving any time soon barring something unforseen happening.

PS - staying in our current townhome is not an option because the kids are bigger and we need more rooms. Either we buy a bigger place or rent, but we can't stay in our current home or I WILL end up in an insane asylum and one of the girls will be arrested for taking out one of her sisters :wall:

ETA - I'll gladly take some PM's from any knowledgeable types (we're in MN if that makes a difference)

 
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Guys, I'm very ignorant on this topic so looking for some answers.

1. I am currently 6 years into a 30 year fixed mortgage. If I refinance, I don't think I want to start the 30 year amortization period over, but I do not have the budget for the payments on a 15 year. Can I get a 25 year mortgage?

2. How does an appraisal affect the process? I imagine my home is worth less than it was 6 years ago, just like everyone else.

TIA

 
Guys, I'm very ignorant on this topic so looking for some answers.1. I am currently 6 years into a 30 year fixed mortgage. If I refinance, I don't think I want to start the 30 year amortization period over, but I do not have the budget for the payments on a 15 year. Can I get a 25 year mortgage?2. How does an appraisal affect the process? I imagine my home is worth less than it was 6 years ago, just like everyone else. TIA
Yes, you can get a 25 (or even 20) from some lenders, but at rates pretty much the same as a 30. Most of us here will advise you to do a 30 and pay on it like a 25. You get the same pay-off benefit with the flexibility should something happen to you financially down the road, you can fall back to the 30 year payments without having to re-fi, make late payments, etc.
 
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Guys, I'm very ignorant on this topic so looking for some answers.1. I am currently 6 years into a 30 year fixed mortgage. If I refinance, I don't think I want to start the 30 year amortization period over, but I do not have the budget for the payments on a 15 year. Can I get a 25 year mortgage?2. How does an appraisal affect the process? I imagine my home is worth less than it was 6 years ago, just like everyone else. TIA
Good question. I'm in roughly the same boat on my townhouse, but since it's worth less I probably won't/can't sell it and will have to be a landlord. Is it worth it for me to refinance it, can I get a mortgage that's not a 15 or 30, etc? Just add it to the big post I made above for those of you willing to provide some advice :hophead:
 
Guys, I'm very ignorant on this topic so looking for some answers.1. I am currently 6 years into a 30 year fixed mortgage. If I refinance, I don't think I want to start the 30 year amortization period over, but I do not have the budget for the payments on a 15 year. Can I get a 25 year mortgage?2. How does an appraisal affect the process? I imagine my home is worth less than it was 6 years ago, just like everyone else. TIA
Not sure if they are still out there, but I was able to get a 20 year. And kept my payments the same. So I basically cut 5 years off my loan. For me the appraisal the only way it will affect it is if the amount you are trying to refinance does not net you the 20% needed.I was in a similar boat as you and was able to get a 20 for 1.25% less than what my 30 was and it cost me bascially 1 months payment. So I did not get to "skip" a month. I think out of pocket was about 3500.
 
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Any good advice in this thread about how to go about refinancing? Just find a lender on the internet with the best rate?

 
10 yr note down to 2.14 and MBS down 100bps. Rates are falling again today. Now is the time to look at refinancing.

As far as the best way to go about selecting a mortgage professional to assist you I would suggest finding a few reputable mortgage brokers in your area. Have them give you a closing costs fees worksheet to compare costs against each of them. Remember never commit until you have received the fees worksheet and have reviewed it. A lot of times you can find mortgage companies in your local newspaper real estate section. HTH

 
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10 yr note down to 2.14 and MBS down 100bps. Rates are falling again today. Now is the time to look at refinancing.As far as the best way to go about selecting a mortgage professional to assist you I would suggest finding a few reputable mortgage brokers in your area. Have them give you a closing costs fees worksheet to compare costs against each of them. Remember never commit until you have received the fees worksheet and have reviewed it. A lot of times you can find mortgage companies in your local newspaper real estate section. HTH
What are fixed rates today?
 
10 yr note down to 2.14 and MBS down 100bps. Rates are falling again today. Now is the time to look at refinancing.

As far as the best way to go about selecting a mortgage professional to assist you I would suggest finding a few reputable mortgage brokers in your area. Have them give you a closing costs fees worksheet to compare costs against each of them. Remember never commit until you have received the fees worksheet and have reviewed it. A lot of times you can find mortgage companies in your local newspaper real estate section. HTH
What are fixed rates today?
Wow... 3-4% ranges right now.
 
Currently at 5% and considering a re-fi as a lender I have a relationship with is at 3.875% 30 year fixed today.

If I lock and pay for an appraisal and can't get to 80% LTV, the bank has indicated in the past that they would have substantial penalties with Freddie Mac if we cancel. They've said in past discussions that they could lock at a higher rate with more of a "contingency" plan that they can get out of if the appraisal doesn't come in. Then I'm out only the cost of the appraisal but I lose rate.

Any options here? Does the bank really risk penalties with Freddie? If so, what kind of penalty are we talking on a maximum conforming 30-year?

 
Looks like I'm going forward with 4.25% no points on 30 year fixed.

I have been reading that closing costs are typically 2-3% of loan. Is that about right? I want to bring that cash to closing rather than roll it into loan amount if I can, right?

 
Looks like I'm going forward with 4.25% no points on 30 year fixed.I have been reading that closing costs are typically 2-3% of loan. Is that about right? I want to bring that cash to closing rather than roll it into loan amount if I can, right?
Are the banks advertising 3.875 on the net a scam?
 
I'm several years into a 4.625% 30 year fixed. Not sure it would be worth the hassle of going through another refi to drop down to 4.3 or so

 
Looks like I'm going forward with 4.25% no points on 30 year fixed.I have been reading that closing costs are typically 2-3% of loan. Is that about right? I want to bring that cash to closing rather than roll it into loan amount if I can, right?
Are the banks advertising 3.875 on the net a scam?
You can probably but it down to that rate TG. Wife and I are about ready to grab something, still think things will be bad but homes go much lower and it won't matter what you paid for it pretty soon.Thinking of a 5 yr note but then again if you can lock in at 4% seems crzy not to just take it.
 
Looks like I'm going forward with 4.25% no points on 30 year fixed.I have been reading that closing costs are typically 2-3% of loan. Is that about right? I want to bring that cash to closing rather than roll it into loan amount if I can, right?
Are the banks advertising 3.875 on the net a scam?
Link? I didn't see anything under 4.125 on bankrate today. Anyway, I feel more comfortable dealing with my local bank than someone from the internet.
 
Looks like I'm going forward with 4.25% no points on 30 year fixed.

I have been reading that closing costs are typically 2-3% of loan. Is that about right? I want to bring that cash to closing rather than roll it into loan amount if I can, right?
Are the banks advertising 3.875 on the net a scam?
Link? I didn't see anything under 4.125 on bankrate today. Anyway, I feel more comfortable dealing with my local bank than someone from the internet.
Google Advisor LinkBut I totally understand your preference for a local lender. I'd be somewhat hesitant to use a bank I've never heard of.

 
For any guys curious what it is truly at as of today, here is my situation.

Buying a home. Locked in on Friday, July 29th at 4.375 practically at par.

Quick tangent to explain par and to explain to those that asked whether the 3.75 they see advertised is real:

Par is what the rate is if you don't want to pay anything to get it lower or don't want to take the rate any worse even if it means you would receive money as a credit towards closing costs to get the rate worse.

So for my situation, almost two weeks ago par was 4.375 (meaning I had to pay a very little to get that). My alternatives were pay even more to get 4.25 or receive some money if I was willing to take 4.5 (and get even more money back if I was willing to take 4.625; and so on).

My mortgage broker said that the only way I can take advantage of a move lower was if it moved by a 1/4 point. So I locked in thinking 4.375 was great (b/c last Oct or Nov it hit 4.25 for a few hours within 1 day and that was the lowest in over 60 years). So I decided 4.375 was an 1/8th off the all time lows - I would take it. If it moved 1/8th of a point lower - I would miss out. But if it moved higher, I would at least be locked in. Moreover, if it moved down by 1/4 point, then I would be allowed to switch over to that.

As it turns out, 4.125 actually hit today. My guy called me. It's pretty much the same situation I had with my 4.375 (in that I have to pay a very little amount for that).

So for those considering it, here are my thoughts (with a full disclaimer that I am not a mortgage broker and cannot predict whether they will go lower or not):

1) The market (dow, S&P, nasdaq) has gotten smashed recently. Since July 21st, it is down about 14 percent.

2) The market getting slammed like this has caused the 10 year bond to fall to almost the lowest it has been since 1960. (Since 1960, the lowest it has been was at the very beginning of 2009 when it was a hair over 2.0.) [To put that in perspective, consider that from 1965 to about 2002, it was never below 4.0, spending a lot of that time above 6 and even hitting nearly 16 in the 80s.) Today it actually hit 2.09 (practically tied for the all time low since 1960).

3) The 10 year bond affects the mortgage industry (ie, mortgage backed securities, etc).

4) My mortgage broker said the lowest he had ever seen before today on a 30 year fixed was 4.25%. Again, that was either last October or November. And he said it was not even there for a full day. That doesn't mean others did not get 4.25 or even lower. But they probably paid down points to get 4.25 or 4.125. Heck, someone you know may even have 4.0 - but not at par. They had to pay down points to get that.

So when par hit 4.125 today (1/4th point lower than what I locked in - I jumped at the chance to switch over and take it). That's just my story for anyone looking to understand how this is all related (stock market, bond market, mortgage industry, etc).

 
Looks like I'm going forward with 4.25% no points on 30 year fixed.

I have been reading that closing costs are typically 2-3% of loan. Is that about right? I want to bring that cash to closing rather than roll it into loan amount if I can, right?
Are the banks advertising 3.875 on the net a scam?
Link? I didn't see anything under 4.125 on bankrate today. Anyway, I feel more comfortable dealing with my local bank than someone from the internet.
Google Advisor LinkBut I totally understand your preference for a local lender. I'd be somewhat hesitant to use a bank I've never heard of.
I just looked at that link. Look over to the right when you get to that site. You will see that you have to pay down points to get those rates. That means those rates are available for a price, but not at par.
 

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