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The only thing I've found that works is hitting it with Scotts Weed & Feed which essentially kills it, thatching up the dead stuff and then pulling any remaining dead/new that comes up. that works for very small areas, sorta. The #### reproduces so fast it's really hard to stay ahead of it. Unfortunately I have large swaths of the #### in my yard and I see it being a very long struggle.I haven't mowed the back in 2 weeks, I'll try to snap a pic of it today to show you what a problem looks like.

I got the same freaking problem with this Bluegrass weed. A huge section of my year as succumb to this and I can not stop it.
Reading online this morning has me feeling hopeless. This is technically a grass, so I am not sure that the Weed and Feed will work guys. Everything online said it was about preventing germination in the fall. It will die off in the summer because of the heat, germinate in the fall, and show back up in the spring. The solution is putting down pre-emergent in the fall and the spring and that it would take a few years to get rid of all of it. Going to OPH today for my May treatment. I will ask them.
:goodposting: I've got it too.My grass is looking very healthy right now - possibly the best it's ever looked. Unfortunately, the weeds are doing jsut as well. Going to spray tonight...I'm thinking the only way to get on top of this is weekly spray treatments.

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The only thing I've found that works is hitting it with Scotts Weed & Feed which essentially kills it, thatching up the dead stuff and then pulling any remaining dead/new that comes up. that works for very small areas, sorta. The #### reproduces so fast it's really hard to stay ahead of it. Unfortunately I have large swaths of the #### in my yard and I see it being a very long struggle.I haven't mowed the back in 2 weeks, I'll try to snap a pic of it today to show you what a problem looks like.

I got the same freaking problem with this Bluegrass weed. A huge section of my year as succumb to this and I can not stop it.
Reading online this morning has me feeling hopeless. This is technically a grass, so I am not sure that the Weed and Feed will work guys. Everything online said it was about preventing germination in the fall. It will die off in the summer because of the heat, germinate in the fall, and show back up in the spring. The solution is putting down pre-emergent in the fall and the spring and that it would take a few years to get rid of all of it. Going to OPH today for my May treatment. I will ask them.
The other fun part of this crap is that when you mow, you spread it. So we got that going for us :shrug:
Yeah...no encouraging news other than it dies in the summer. Guy told me the only real time to treat is during the fall with a pre-emergent just like I was reading earlier. He said he recommends cutting your grass an inch or so shorter also through the entire summer. It IS a grass so the treatments are of no use.ETA: He also said to bag everything you cut for the rest of the season. Edited by The Commish

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Any recommendations for getting rid of clover in the grass?

Spray with a weed killer.
You need a really strong weed killer for clover. Trimec comes to mind but I think I recommended something else earlier in this thread.
I've used typical week killers for lawns. It may take a couple applications but still works.

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I'm a complete newb when it comes to lawncare (just bought our first house last year and the lawn is crap). I've read a lot of people suggesting watering longer and less often and then people saying not to over water. When you say water longer, what length of time do you mean? Does this mean 30 minutes? An hour? I live in Colorado and the soil here is pretty much clay. I assume that makes a difference. Is there some way I should be able to tell if I'm over watering?

Thanks!

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I'm a complete newb when it comes to lawncare (just bought our first house last year and the lawn is crap). I've read a lot of people suggesting watering longer and less often and then people saying not to over water. When you say water longer, what length of time do you mean? Does this mean 30 minutes? An hour? I live in Colorado and the soil here is pretty much clay. I assume that makes a difference. Is there some way I should be able to tell if I'm over watering?Thanks!

"Water deeply" is the better way to describe what you should do. This means applying more water at one time so that it penetrates farther into the soil, which encourages root growth. Strong roots make for healthier, more drought-resistant plants.Most of what I've read suggests an inch of water (rain plus sprinkler) a week. Put a cup out and wait until it accumulates an inch of water.You can tell that your grass needs water by looking at it. Obviously if it's brown, but before that if it looks wilted or starts to curl, it's time to water.ETA: The OP does a really nice job of answering most noob questions. Edited by D_House

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All great stuff here. I just moved into my new home, thus I have a new yard. I'm finally done with St. Aug. That stuff grew way to fast.

My new front yard is centipede, not my favorite, but it is nice and grows slow. I'm happy with it.

My back yard is a different story. Not sure the exact sq footage of things, but it pretty big, small enough to push mow though. It gets nearly 100 % sunlight. As of right now it is probably 40% Bermuda, 50% various weeds, and 10% hard pan dirt.

My goal for the back is to eventually have a yard of zoysia (not sure which type though). I'm not interested in killing, tilling and laying sod. Too pricey at the moment. I went to my local garden store and the guy tells me zoysia will eventually overtake bermuda. Can anyone confirm this?

In the mean time I'm trying to get rid of the weeds. The guy sold me some "new" MSMA type of poison. Says its newer and more effective at killing everything but the bermuda. Spray it on yesterday.

So assuming that zoysia can over take bermuda, how is the best way? We have a store that sales individual pieces of zoysia for $2.50. I've thought about investing about $100 in that and cutting up plugs. Then I see the places that sale zoysia in seed form, but thats pretty pricey.

Which way woul yall suggest? Plugging a little at a time, or seeding?

thanks

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All great stuff here. I just moved into my new home, thus I have a new yard. I'm finally done with St. Aug. That stuff grew way to fast.

My new front yard is centipede, not my favorite, but it is nice and grows slow. I'm happy with it.

My back yard is a different story. Not sure the exact sq footage of things, but it pretty big, small enough to push mow though. It gets nearly 100 % sunlight. As of right now it is probably 40% Bermuda, 50% various weeds, and 10% hard pan dirt.

My goal for the back is to eventually have a yard of zoysia (not sure which type though). I'm not interested in killing, tilling and laying sod. Too pricey at the moment. I went to my local garden store and the guy tells me zoysia will eventually overtake bermuda. Can anyone confirm this?

In the mean time I'm trying to get rid of the weeds. The guy sold me some "new" MSMA type of poison. Says its newer and more effective at killing everything but the bermuda. Spray it on yesterday.

So assuming that zoysia can over take bermuda, how is the best way? We have a store that sales individual pieces of zoysia for $2.50. I've thought about investing about $100 in that and cutting up plugs. Then I see the places that sale zoysia in seed form, but thats pretty pricey.

Which way woul yall suggest? Plugging a little at a time, or seeding?

thanks

Empire Zoysia. http://www.empireturf.com/

Plug it if you have to. I wouldn't seed. It is so slow you may wonder if any seeds germinated. I would also put it in with the centipede grass. It looks close to the same, will work its way through the centipede (which has a shallow root system-thus not as drought tolerant) and overtake it and you will be glad it does. I'm in the process of doing that right now.

As far as bermuda, I think so but I made sure to dig out all the bermuda I found ahead of laying my sod. Both bermuda and zoysia have stolons but the zoysia stolons are tougher. Virtually forms a thick weaved carpet of roots under the grass, thus choking out anyhting else trying to grow.

Edited by FavreCo

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All great stuff here. I just moved into my new home, thus I have a new yard. I'm finally done with St. Aug. That stuff grew way to fast.

My new front yard is centipede, not my favorite, but it is nice and grows slow. I'm happy with it.

My back yard is a different story. Not sure the exact sq footage of things, but it pretty big, small enough to push mow though. It gets nearly 100 % sunlight. As of right now it is probably 40% Bermuda, 50% various weeds, and 10% hard pan dirt.

My goal for the back is to eventually have a yard of zoysia (not sure which type though). I'm not interested in killing, tilling and laying sod. Too pricey at the moment. I went to my local garden store and the guy tells me zoysia will eventually overtake bermuda. Can anyone confirm this?

In the mean time I'm trying to get rid of the weeds. The guy sold me some "new" MSMA type of poison. Says its newer and more effective at killing everything but the bermuda. Spray it on yesterday.

So assuming that zoysia can over take bermuda, how is the best way? We have a store that sales individual pieces of zoysia for $2.50. I've thought about investing about $100 in that and cutting up plugs. Then I see the places that sale zoysia in seed form, but thats pretty pricey.

Which way woul yall suggest? Plugging a little at a time, or seeding?

thanks

Empire Zoysia. http://www.empireturf.com/

Plug it if you have to. I wouldn't seed. It is so slow you may wonder if any seeds germinated. I would also put it in with the centipede grass. It looks close to the same, will work its way through the centipede (which has a shallow root system-thus not as drought tolerant) and overtake it and you will be glad it does. I'm in the process of doing that right now.

As far as bermuda, I think so but I made sure to dig out all the bermuda I found ahead of laying my sod. Both bermuda and zoysia have stolons but the zoysia stolons are tougher. Virtually forms a thick weaved carpet of roots under the grass, thus choking out anyhting else trying to grow.

yeah, the plan is to do the same in the front too. there are too many types of zoysia, empire, el toro, meyer and jamur. some types tend to look more like bermuda, and others like centipede.

is the empire like like centipede?

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yeah, the plan is to do the same in the front too. there are too many types of zoysia, empire, el toro, meyer and jamur. some types tend to look more like bermuda, and others like centipede.is the empire like like centipede?

When I plugged empire into an area of centipede, within 2 years, I couldn't tell what was what. Centipede is great in the shade and semi shade. I wanted to test the zoysia in the same setting and so far it has been fine in semishade. It's biggest drawbacks are shade tolerance, thatch and it is invasive. It will take over a mulch bed without good borders. As in the pictures, my borders are sunken countryside wall, level with the zoysia so I don't have to weedeat.

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I'm a complete newb when it comes to lawncare (just bought our first house last year and the lawn is crap). I've read a lot of people suggesting watering longer and less often and then people saying not to over water. When you say water longer, what length of time do you mean? Does this mean 30 minutes? An hour? I live in Colorado and the soil here is pretty much clay. I assume that makes a difference. Is there some way I should be able to tell if I'm over watering?Thanks!

"Water deeply" is the better way to describe what you should do. This means applying more water at one time so that it penetrates farther into the soil, which encourages root growth. Strong roots make for healthier, more drought-resistant plants.Most of what I've read suggests an inch of water (rain plus sprinkler) a week. Put a cup out and wait until it accumulates an inch of water.You can tell that your grass needs water by looking at it. Obviously if it's brown, but before that if it looks wilted or starts to curl, it's time to water.ETA: The OP does a really nice job of answering most noob questions.
Thanks D_House. And thanks to everyone else in the thread that's provided help. Maybe I can do this! :goodposting:

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This spot was full up of that crap, thatched out dead after I applied Scott's weed & feed and pulled rest. Re-seeded but I can tell already it's not gonna come up, you can see some of the bluegrass crap popped back up, gotta pull it.

This is the other side of the front yard, you can see where it's coming in here too. Bigger battle but it's next on the list to attack.

Finally this mess is what the back looks like. The darker areas outlined are where there is still some semblance of grass but it's losing the battle. The good news is it will die off in another month or so, the centipede grass will take over and I'll be rid of it for another year. Throw some pre-emergent down in late fall, again in spring, lather, rinse, repeat :thumbup:

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This is the other side of the front yard, you can see where it's coming in here too. Bigger battle but it's next on the list to attack.

Is this your mailbox being eaten by a climbing plant? The planting looks like.........Oscar the Grouch's genitalia if he wasn't a puppet. Sorry Beer30, it's late and I'm pretty wasted. Good luck with that Annual Bluegrass or Poa Annua is another name. It's a ##### of a plant. It can withstand heat/cold/low mowing heights. It produces thousands of seeds and right now is the time it flourishes. Pre-emerging can help in the fall and spring. There are chemicals (Kerb, Revolver,Prograss) that will selectively take out Poa but you have to read the label and see what precautions to take. One way of handling it is to not overwater the areas. Poa loves water and hates sand so maybe topdress some plaster sand into the areas.

Late night drunken turf rant...Poa Annua can make a fine putting surface. Many greens in California including Torrey Pines and Pebble Beach have Poa greens.

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This spot was full up of that crap, thatched out dead after I applied Scott's weed & feed and pulled rest. Re-seeded but I can tell already it's not gonna come up, you can see some of the bluegrass crap popped back up, gotta pull it.

This is the other side of the front yard, you can see where it's coming in here too. Bigger battle but it's next on the list to attack.

Finally this mess is what the back looks like. The darker areas outlined are where there is still some semblance of grass but it's losing the battle. The good news is it will die off in another month or so, the centipede grass will take over and I'll be rid of it for another year. Throw some pre-emergent down in late fall, again in spring, lather, rinse, repeat :goodposting:

Get a soil test to see where it is at. If your soil isn't right grass won't grow how you want it to. Also, milorganite is your friend.

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Does anyone know how long I need to keep the dogs off the lawn if I were to spray weed killer on the grass?

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Does anyone know how long I need to keep the dogs off the lawn if I were to spray weed killer on the grass?

A rule of thumb is 24 hours but it depends on what you sprayed. Reading the label might have a re-entry period stated.

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Does anyone know how long I need to keep the dogs off the lawn if I were to spray weed killer on the grass?

Fine once it's dry.

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Thanks for the replies. I did a couple of google searches and there is nothing specific on the label.

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Got all of my trees and shrubs set. In the backyard: Tulip Poplar, Yoshina Cherry, Japanese maple, River Birch, 2 Crype Myrtles, Leyland Cypress, 3 5-6ft Arborvitaes along the back deck(it's open). Side of house: Box holly and 2 pencil hollys around the ac unit. Front yard: 1 Japanese Maple then some regular hollys mixed in with petunias and pansies. 1 Lilly right at the bottom of the 1st step in both corners. Mums around the mailbox

Also, this weeked, My dad and I leveled the front yard, sowed it, put straw over it and then place a cover over top of everything. Backyard has really came along with the Weed and Feed from a few weeks ago. Still going to take a couple of years to get it right, since I was basically starting from trash, but it sure has been fun trying

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Thanks for the replies. I did a couple of google searches and there is nothing specific on the label.

In most cases, pesticides available to homeowners have a low toxicity level. The signal word on the label tells you a great deal about how toxic a product is. Once a product is dry might be an OK rule of thumb but I want to make certain. Scott's Weed and Feed, for example says that you should not water it in for 24 hours after application. I don't want my kids or pets running around on it until after I'm certain it's been soaked up and into the plant or soil.

REI information

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I just bought a smallish electric lawn mower at Home Depot, wrestled it out of the trunk and then out of the box, did a little minor assembling, cut the grass, which had grown pretty high, edged it with this very dangerous, rock spitting trimmer, raked the trimmings, bagged them, and turned on the sprinkler. I would pretty much marry anyone just to not have to do that again.

Edited by desert rose

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Will Zoysia overtake St. Augustine?

I'm sick of how hard St. Augustine is to maintain, and how much water it takes. If I had it to do all over right now, I'd go Zoysia in a heartbeat.

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Just bought a Stihl weedeater....They are pricey, but I needed one. My little electric one is a POS.

I am like a kid though....is it rude to ask your neighbor to weedeat their yard?? (They never do it and it makes my yard look worse.)

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Will Zoysia overtake St. Augustine?I'm sick of how hard St. Augustine is to maintain, and how much water it takes. If I had it to do all over right now, I'd go Zoysia in a heartbeat.

:tumbleweed::lmao:

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Does anyone know how long I need to keep the dogs off the lawn if I were to spray weed killer on the grass?

Fine once it's dry.
Really?

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Does anyone know how long I need to keep the dogs off the lawn if I were to spray weed killer on the grass?

Fine once it's dry.
Really?
That's my philosophy. Why would you wait longer?

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I want to find who created ground ivy and shoot them. :goodposting::rant::hot:

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Clover overtaking several spots on my lawn. Any suggestions?

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I want to find who created ground ivy and shoot them. :thumbup::lmao::)

I am having the exact opposite problem. I can't get the ivy to grow on the walls.

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any good treatments this late for crab grass..starting to really take over my back yard and have a few spots in the front

If you can see it, it's too late but I'd still recommend throwing done some Scotts Halts. Then you can either kill it all or start pulling, enjoy your new found oneness with nature :goodposting:

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a couple lawn tools I've used this spring/summer that I can recommend for those with a normal-sized city lawn (mine is about 1800 in front and about 1000 in back).

weed hound - this makes dandelion-killing fun, or at least bearable. Especially recommended for old fat guys who don't like getting down on their hands/knees to weed dandelions.

for de-thatching and aerating: thatching rake and core aerator. These work great, but are a hell of a day's work. Not recommended for a larger yard, but for the city guys these are better in my experience than the power machines you can get at the local rental places.

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Clover overtaking several spots on my lawn. Any suggestions?

You try spraying it yet?

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Clover overtaking several spots on my lawn. Any suggestions?

You try spraying it yet?
With something like Weed-B-Gone?

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Clover overtaking several spots on my lawn. Any suggestions?

You try spraying it yet?
With something like Weed-B-Gone?
Yes, something like that.

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I'm getting a dead patch in my front yard that seems to expand daily. It did it a little last year, but this year is much worse. It is getting plenty of water, or at least as much water as the rest of my lawn, but for whatever reason, it's just dying. Pisses me off, because most of my neighbors have nice lawns, and I'm the doosh with the one that is starting to looked f-ed up.

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My tip is to pay a professional to spray and cut the lawn, I got home from work last night and it looked like PNC park :lmao:

Empty, you mean?

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It hasn't rained at my house in over a month, and everything is dying. :cry:

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It hasn't rained at my house in over a month, and everything is dying. :cry:

Its probably just heat stressed and now dormant. It will come back. If you start watering it (about an inch and a half a week) you'll need to keep up with it.

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It hasn't rained at my house in over a month, and everything is dying. :(

Its probably just heat stressed and now dormant. It will come back. If you start watering it (about an inch and a half a week) you'll need to keep up with it.
It's newer grass too. I've been watering almost every evening though. Been above 90 for a few weeks now. Upper 90s this week Edited by flapgreen

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It hasn't rained at my house in over a month, and everything is dying. :(

Typically, it doesn't rain here from early May to mid October.

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It hasn't rained at my house in over a month, and everything is dying. :(

Its probably just heat stressed and now dormant. It will come back. If you start watering it (about an inch and a half a week) you'll need to keep up with it.
It's newer grass too. I've been watering almost every evening though. Been above 90 for a few weeks now. Upper 90s this week
How new is it? Have you mowed it several times since it germinated? If so, you're better off watering it about 1 1/2 inches a week. The deeper you water it helps promote deep root growth, making the grass stronger. Watering it only once a week better prepares it for droughts. If you are watering it every day it is going to constantly need water.

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I want to find who created ground ivy and shoot them. :confused: :confused: :confused:

If by ground ivy, you mean the weed also known as creeping charlie then read this thread.

I bought the specialized ortho stuff for clover and oxalis and doubled the dosage. I sprayed about every week in the spring and got rid of most of it. Although this will be a constant battle since my lazy neighbor has a whole yard of it. If you do try anything now be careful...with the heat this strong stuff may kill the lawn.

Probably best waiting for fall.

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I'm getting a dead patch in my front yard that seems to expand daily. It did it a little last year, but this year is much worse. It is getting plenty of water, or at least as much water as the rest of my lawn, but for whatever reason, it's just dying. Pisses me off, because most of my neighbors have nice lawns, and I'm the doosh with the one that is starting to looked f-ed up.

Go try a fungus control. You may just have some red thread or borwn patch.My yard is dying a death, everyone's yard is around here. No rain in forever, high temps, high humidity.Been watering the crap out of my lawn and it's still turning browing. Tough year.

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I'm getting a dead patch in my front yard that seems to expand daily. It did it a little last year, but this year is much worse. It is getting plenty of water, or at least as much water as the rest of my lawn, but for whatever reason, it's just dying. Pisses me off, because most of my neighbors have nice lawns, and I'm the doosh with the one that is starting to looked f-ed up.

Might be grubs too. Throw some Grub-X down. Noticed any Japanese Beetles around?I never knew this but those little bastards start out as grubs.

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Been using a side discharge mower for years. It died. bought a rear bagging mulcher. I still don't bag it. No more discharge. Awesome!

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I imagine everyone in the midwest and east has a lawn dying a slow death with this heat. Sad to see that green go, but I doubt I'm going to water. It's just too much hassle for me.

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It hasn't rained at my house in over a month, and everything is dying. :confused:

Its probably just heat stressed and now dormant. It will come back. If you start watering it (about an inch and a half a week) you'll need to keep up with it.
It's newer grass too. I've been watering almost every evening though. Been above 90 for a few weeks now. Upper 90s this week
How new is it? Have you mowed it several times since it germinated? If so, you're better off watering it about 1 1/2 inches a week. The deeper you water it helps promote deep root growth, making the grass stronger. Watering it only once a week better prepares it for droughts. If you are watering it every day it is going to constantly need water.
I did not know that. tx

It's about 3 months old. I brought in new dirt in my front because it was so uneven and then sowed new seed. Covered it with straw and then put a covering over it you get at Lowe's to hold the straw. It rained here in the Nashville area nonstop for 2 months. The new grass popped up really quickly, thick too. So after taking over the tarp and raking out some of the straw, I mowed it on the highest level I could get on my mower. That was over a month ago and it hasn't rained a single drop since. I'll have to say, though. Everyone els's grass in the neighborhood had mostly died off. They had the good stuff. The part of the grass I had in my yard initially hasn't died at all. Still holding on. Just not putting up any new grass to fill in the bare spots.

In my backyard, that's another story. It had a lot of weeds in it, which are partly gone now due to treatment, so it's stayed greener than the front yard. The good grass in it is dying but the weeks and bad grass make up the difference and it doesn't look bad. That's where I'm at currently with both yards. Water them both for an hour once a wee, :excited: On another note, I'm watering my new trees every other day along with my flowers on a daily basis

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