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Kicking myself, grass was looking good, so i added some weed and feed sunday evening..now have fertilizer burn used a scott's weed and feed with plus2 for weeds...totally done for the year or not?just have some streaks at this point and Scott's said to water 30 minutes every 3 days to help for 3 weeks

Is this your first application of the season?

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Let's get some numbers here. I measured mine. Typical setting has deck 2-1/4" off the ground which puts the blade at about 3-1/2" high. My highest setting puts the deck at 3-1/4" high for cutting height of about 4-1/2" high. Sounds high, but it looks good. Afraid it's going to look out of control 4 days after I cut, though.

Decided to split the difference and see how it plays out. It was already looking a little shaggy after two days.
Here is my lawn 4 days after cutting. Does it look too unkempt at this height?
That's ideal if you ask me. I know it may "look" better when cut a little bit lower but the height you have means strong root system below. And your grass has that great dark green look.

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Kicking myself, grass was looking good, so i added some weed and feed sunday evening..now have fertilizer burn used a scott's weed and feed with plus2 for weeds...totally done for the year or not?

just have some streaks at this point and Scott's said to water 30 minutes every 3 days to help for 3 weeks

It could be toasted. Let me ask, what type of grass? What caused the streaks? If you have the time just hand water the streaked areas. Over watering the entire lawn will dilute the effectiveness of the herbicide.

Is this what you used?

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Kicking myself, grass was looking good, so i added some weed and feed sunday evening..now have fertilizer burn used a scott's weed and feed with plus2 for weeds...totally done for the year or not?

just have some streaks at this point and Scott's said to water 30 minutes every 3 days to help for 3 weeks

It could be toasted. Let me ask, what type of grass? What caused the streaks? If you have the time just hand water the streaked areas. Over watering the entire lawn will dilute the effectiveness of the herbicide.

Is this what you used?

YEP, and second time of the season

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Kicking myself, grass was looking good, so i added some weed and feed sunday evening..now have fertilizer burn used a scott's weed and feed with plus2 for weeds...totally done for the year or not?just have some streaks at this point and Scott's said to water 30 minutes every 3 days to help for 3 weeks

Do you have a drop spreader? I would occasionally get lines from my drop spreader. Pick up a broadcast spreader. They're much better at evenly distributing.Unless you totally disregarded the calibration suggestions on the fertilizer bag, your grass should be fine. You may have lines of darker green, but it shouldn't die.

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Kicking myself, grass was looking good, so i added some weed and feed sunday evening..now have fertilizer burn used a scott's weed and feed with plus2 for weeds...totally done for the year or not?

just have some streaks at this point and Scott's said to water 30 minutes every 3 days to help for 3 weeks

Do you have a drop spreader? I would occasionally get lines from my drop spreader. Pick up a broadcast spreader. They're much better at evenly distributing.

Unless you totally disregarded the calibration suggestions on the fertilizer bag, your grass should be fine. You may have lines of darker green, but it shouldn't die.

Am I the only one who regularly does this?

:thumbup:

(fwiw, I have a ####ty speedy green spreader and the settings always seem way too low)

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Im in Ontario and we basically cant buy or use any sort of herbicide or pesticide starting this season. Real PITA. Only way to get rid of weeds is pull em.

I have some weed n feed left from last year, but have one nosy neighbour that would surely call the city if he sees me using it.

I think there will be a lot more traffic heading down to the Home Depot in Buffalo. And a lot of people working on their lawns at night up here. :thumbup:

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Kicking myself, grass was looking good, so i added some weed and feed sunday evening..now have fertilizer burn used a scott's weed and feed with plus2 for weeds...totally done for the year or not?

just have some streaks at this point and Scott's said to water 30 minutes every 3 days to help for 3 weeks

It could be toasted. Let me ask, what type of grass? What caused the streaks? If you have the time just hand water the streaked areas. Over watering the entire lawn will dilute the effectiveness of the herbicide.

Is this what you used?

YEP, and second time of the season
little early for a 2nd app, unless you put down first week in march.

And I always follow the the directions on the bag, nothing wrong with a speedy green. You'd rather too little than too much

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Kicking myself, grass was looking good, so i added some weed and feed sunday evening..now have fertilizer burn used a scott's weed and feed with plus2 for weeds...totally done for the year or not?

just have some streaks at this point and Scott's said to water 30 minutes every 3 days to help for 3 weeks

Do you have a drop spreader? I would occasionally get lines from my drop spreader. Pick up a broadcast spreader. They're much better at evenly distributing.

Unless you totally disregarded the calibration suggestions on the fertilizer bag, your grass should be fine. You may have lines of darker green, but it shouldn't die.

Am I the only one who regularly does this?

:porked:

(fwiw, I have a ####ty speedy green spreader and the settings always seem way too low)

Most fertalizers I've ever used call for a 3 1/4 - 3 1/2 setting, so there's not much difference. But I would imagine that if you left it all teh way open all the time, you could distribute too much. I never tried it.

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Im in Ontario and we basically cant buy or use any sort of herbicide or pesticide starting this season. Real PITA. Only way to get rid of weeds is pull em. I have some weed n feed left from last year, but have one nosy neighbour that would surely call the city if he sees me using it.I think there will be a lot more traffic heading down to the Home Depot in Buffalo. And a lot of people working on their lawns at night up here. :lmao:

I would think that it would still be OK to use what you already have in stock. What else are you supposed to do with it, dump it in the garbage and contaminate the landfill? :porked:

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Kicking myself, grass was looking good, so i added some weed and feed sunday evening..now have fertilizer burn used a scott's weed and feed with plus2 for weeds...totally done for the year or not?

just have some streaks at this point and Scott's said to water 30 minutes every 3 days to help for 3 weeks

It could be toasted. Let me ask, what type of grass? What caused the streaks? If you have the time just hand water the streaked areas. Over watering the entire lawn will dilute the effectiveness of the herbicide.

Is this what you used?

YEP, and second time of the season
little early for a 2nd app, unless you put down first week in march.

And I always follow the the directions on the bag, nothing wrong with a speedy green. You'd rather too little than too much

:shrug:

Bermudagrass is about as resilient a grass as you'll find. Just water the effected areas and it should come back.

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Im in Ontario and we basically cant buy or use any sort of herbicide or pesticide starting this season. Real PITA. Only way to get rid of weeds is pull em. I have some weed n feed left from last year, but have one nosy neighbour that would surely call the city if he sees me using it.I think there will be a lot more traffic heading down to the Home Depot in Buffalo. And a lot of people working on their lawns at night up here. :lmao:

I would think that it would still be OK to use what you already have in stock. What else are you supposed to do with it, dump it in the garbage and contaminate the landfill? :shrug:
Get fined if caught using it or dumping it. They do a garbage pickup for this stuff, or we can bring to the landfill where they dispose of it properly. Ill be keeping mine for some night time fertilizing though. Have to wait and time it for when the moon is right and the weeds are at their peak.Putting weed n feed shouldnt be too bad actually, as without seeing the bag it will be hard for anyone to tell its not just fertilizer. I have an apple tree I spray though, and like to use roundup on the weeds. Harder to do that stuff now.

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Kicking myself, grass was looking good, so i added some weed and feed sunday evening..now have fertilizer burn used a scott's weed and feed with plus2 for weeds...totally done for the year or not?

just have some streaks at this point and Scott's said to water 30 minutes every 3 days to help for 3 weeks

It could be toasted. Let me ask, what type of grass? What caused the streaks? If you have the time just hand water the streaked areas. Over watering the entire lawn will dilute the effectiveness of the herbicide.

Is this what you used?

YEP, and second time of the season
How long ago was the first?

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Kicking myself, grass was looking good, so i added some weed and feed sunday evening..now have fertilizer burn used a scott's weed and feed with plus2 for weeds...totally done for the year or not?

just have some streaks at this point and Scott's said to water 30 minutes every 3 days to help for 3 weeks

Do you have a drop spreader? I would occasionally get lines from my drop spreader. Pick up a broadcast spreader. They're much better at evenly distributing.

Unless you totally disregarded the calibration suggestions on the fertilizer bag, your grass should be fine. You may have lines of darker green, but it shouldn't die.

Am I the only one who regularly does this?

:unsure:

(fwiw, I have a ####ty speedy green spreader and the settings always seem way too low)

Most fertalizers I've ever used call for a 3 1/4 - 3 1/2 setting, so there's not much difference. But I would imagine that if you left it all teh way open all the time, you could distribute too much. I never tried it.
For me, the setting <> what the bag says it should cover. I have a house on 1 acre and buy the 15,000 sqft bag (1/3 acre). I set the spreader to 3.5 and never run out.

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Kicking myself, grass was looking good, so i added some weed and feed sunday evening..now have fertilizer burn used a scott's weed and feed with plus2 for weeds...totally done for the year or not?

just have some streaks at this point and Scott's said to water 30 minutes every 3 days to help for 3 weeks

Do you have a drop spreader? I would occasionally get lines from my drop spreader. Pick up a broadcast spreader. They're much better at evenly distributing.

Unless you totally disregarded the calibration suggestions on the fertilizer bag, your grass should be fine. You may have lines of darker green, but it shouldn't die.

Am I the only one who regularly does this?

:unsure:

(fwiw, I have a ####ty speedy green spreader and the settings always seem way too low)

I've been tempted to open it up a bit in the past becase the output "seemed low", but this is not a good idea.

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I prefer using a drop spreader just for the control. But it can be a real pain in the ### to be precise. Any tips for not doubling up or missing with a drop spreader?

Also the instructions typically say to fertilize the yard one direction, then again going 90 degrees from the first. Does this mean you should half the suggested setting, or do it twice at the recommended setting?

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I have a section of my yard that is about 25 yards by 35 yards. Lots of Bare spots and patches.. tried thatching, aerating, fertilizer and seed and nothing. :wall:

So Sunday took my Tiller after it and than dragged a Old bed spring over it , than detached, aerarated, added new seed and watered and than watered again last night.. Will try to remember to take a :pics: tonight and some in about a week or two to see if it helps.

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I prefer using a drop spreader just for the control. But it can be a real pain in the ### to be precise. Any tips for not doubling up or missing with a drop spreader?Also the instructions typically say to fertilize the yard one direction, then again going 90 degrees from the first. Does this mean you should half the suggested setting, or do it twice at the recommended setting?

Drop speaders are a PITA for fertilizing but if you must use one try making your application with the dew still on the grass and you can see your tire tracks.Just to be safe, use a half rate and go two directions. Also, when you look at the bag, there are three numbers associated with the fertilizer. These numbers in order are Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium. The higher number of Nitrogen usually means the more potential for burn so it needs to be watered in right away.

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I prefer using a drop spreader just for the control. But it can be a real pain in the ### to be precise. Any tips for not doubling up or missing with a drop spreader?Also the instructions typically say to fertilize the yard one direction, then again going 90 degrees from the first. Does this mean you should half the suggested setting, or do it twice at the recommended setting?

Drop speaders are a PITA for fertilizing but if you must use one try making your application with the dew still on the grass and you can see your tire tracks.Just to be safe, use a half rate and go two directions. Also, when you look at the bag, there are three numbers associated with the fertilizer. These numbers in order are Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium. The higher number of Nitrogen usually means the more potential for burn so it needs to be watered in right away.
So does the burn occur from the Nitrogren absorbing water from the blades of grass? I am curious then about the fertilizers with weed killers in them that recommend watering the grass before spreading and advise against watering it, like Scott's 2nd step fertilizer. Seems like this would be more apt to burn.

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I prefer using a drop spreader just for the control. But it can be a real pain in the ### to be precise. Any tips for not doubling up or missing with a drop spreader?Also the instructions typically say to fertilize the yard one direction, then again going 90 degrees from the first. Does this mean you should half the suggested setting, or do it twice at the recommended setting?

Drop speaders are a PITA for fertilizing but if you must use one try making your application with the dew still on the grass and you can see your tire tracks.Just to be safe, use a half rate and go two directions. Also, when you look at the bag, there are three numbers associated with the fertilizer. These numbers in order are Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium. The higher number of Nitrogen usually means the more potential for burn so it needs to be watered in right away.
So does the burn occur from the Nitrogren absorbing water from the blades of grass? I am curious then about the fertilizers with weed killers in them that recommend watering the grass before spreading and advise against watering it, like Scott's 2nd step fertilizer. Seems like this would be more apt to burn.
The weed killer needs to "stick" to the weeds for some time. Thus putting it down when the lawn is damp and NOT watering it in.

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I prefer using a drop spreader just for the control. But it can be a real pain in the ### to be precise. Any tips for not doubling up or missing with a drop spreader?Also the instructions typically say to fertilize the yard one direction, then again going 90 degrees from the first. Does this mean you should half the suggested setting, or do it twice at the recommended setting?

Drop speaders are a PITA for fertilizing but if you must use one try making your application with the dew still on the grass and you can see your tire tracks.Just to be safe, use a half rate and go two directions. Also, when you look at the bag, there are three numbers associated with the fertilizer. These numbers in order are Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium. The higher number of Nitrogen usually means the more potential for burn so it needs to be watered in right away.
Hypothetically, if I use weednfeed :goodposting: it has a 27 I think for nitrogen, but says to not use it if expecting rain. I prefer to use a drop spreader, so that I dont get any on my neighbours lawns. Should I still water it in?

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I prefer using a drop spreader just for the control. But it can be a real pain in the ### to be precise. Any tips for not doubling up or missing with a drop spreader?

Also the instructions typically say to fertilize the yard one direction, then again going 90 degrees from the first. Does this mean you should half the suggested setting, or do it twice at the recommended setting?

Drop speaders are a PITA for fertilizing but if you must use one try making your application with the dew still on the grass and you can see your tire tracks.

Just to be safe, use a half rate and go two directions. Also, when you look at the bag, there are three numbers associated with the fertilizer. These numbers in order are Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium. The higher number of Nitrogen usually means the more potential for burn so it needs to be watered in right away.

So does the burn occur from the Nitrogren absorbing water from the blades of grass?

I am curious then about the fertilizers with weed killers in them that recommend watering the grass before spreading and advise against watering it, like Scott's 2nd step fertilizer. Seems like this would be more apt to burn.

Long, boring Fertilizer article

In essesence, yes. The high concentration of fertilizer (salt) will burn the leaf tissue by extracting water.

Different types of Nitrogen have a higher burn potential than others. Nitrate nitrogen is more readily available to the plant (high burn potential) than Amonia Nitrogen. Slow release fertilizers having the least amount of burn potential.

As posted above, the fertilizers with weed killers in them generally need for the herbicide to stay in contact with the leaf blades for 24 hours to be fully effective. If the nitrogen type is slow release nitrogen, the burn potential is less and waiting until the next day to water should not be a problem.

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Im in Ontario and we basically cant buy or use any sort of herbicide or pesticide starting this season. Real PITA. Only way to get rid of weeds is pull em. I have some weed n feed left from last year, but have one nosy neighbour that would surely call the city if he sees me using it.I think there will be a lot more traffic heading down to the Home Depot in Buffalo. And a lot of people working on their lawns at night up here. :yes:

I would think that it would still be OK to use what you already have in stock. What else are you supposed to do with it, dump it in the garbage and contaminate the landfill? :wub:
Get fined if caught using it or dumping it. They do a garbage pickup for this stuff, or we can bring to the landfill where they dispose of it properly. Ill be keeping mine for some night time fertilizing though. Have to wait and time it for when the moon is right and the weeds are at their peak.Putting weed n feed shouldnt be too bad actually, as without seeing the bag it will be hard for anyone to tell its not just fertilizer. I have an apple tree I spray though, and like to use roundup on the weeds. Harder to do that stuff now.
Is it only synthetic herbicides and peticides or can you use organic methods. An organic pre-emergent like corn gluten meal can be used in the spring to prevent things like dandelions and crabgrass from coming up. If they don't permit environmentally friendly organic methods then I'd start ripping out lawn and putting in more planting beds and patios, etc. so one has less lawn to fuss over by hand.

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I prefer using a drop spreader just for the control. But it can be a real pain in the ### to be precise. Any tips for not doubling up or missing with a drop spreader?Also the instructions typically say to fertilize the yard one direction, then again going 90 degrees from the first. Does this mean you should half the suggested setting, or do it twice at the recommended setting?

Drop speaders are a PITA for fertilizing but if you must use one try making your application with the dew still on the grass and you can see your tire tracks.Just to be safe, use a half rate and go two directions. Also, when you look at the bag, there are three numbers associated with the fertilizer. These numbers in order are Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium. The higher number of Nitrogen usually means the more potential for burn so it needs to be watered in right away.
Hypothetically, if I use weednfeed :wub: it has a 27 I think for nitrogen, but says to not use it if expecting rain. I prefer to use a drop spreader, so that I dont get any on my neighbours lawns. Should I still water it in?
Does the label say what the nitrogen source is? It should be broken down as a percentage on the bag. As a good rule of thumb, always follow the directions on the label. Edited by Dark Matter

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I prefer using a drop spreader just for the control. But it can be a real pain in the ### to be precise. Any tips for not doubling up or missing with a drop spreader?Also the instructions typically say to fertilize the yard one direction, then again going 90 degrees from the first. Does this mean you should half the suggested setting, or do it twice at the recommended setting?

Drop speaders are a PITA for fertilizing but if you must use one try making your application with the dew still on the grass and you can see your tire tracks.Just to be safe, use a half rate and go two directions. Also, when you look at the bag, there are three numbers associated with the fertilizer. These numbers in order are Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium. The higher number of Nitrogen usually means the more potential for burn so it needs to be watered in right away.
So does the burn occur from the Nitrogren absorbing water from the blades of grass? I am curious then about the fertilizers with weed killers in them that recommend watering the grass before spreading and advise against watering it, like Scott's 2nd step fertilizer. Seems like this would be more apt to burn.
The weed killer needs to "stick" to the weeds for some time. Thus putting it down when the lawn is damp and NOT watering it in.
Yep, the Scott's 2nd step need to stick to the leaves of the weeds to kill them.One thing to keep in mind... if your grass is as long as it should be (per previous discussion in this thread), the dew may make the bottom of the drop spreader damp, thus all the fertilizer gets clogged up. I recommend a broadcast spreader for this application.

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I prefer using a drop spreader just for the control. But it can be a real pain in the ### to be precise. Any tips for not doubling up or missing with a drop spreader?Also the instructions typically say to fertilize the yard one direction, then again going 90 degrees from the first. Does this mean you should half the suggested setting, or do it twice at the recommended setting?

Drop speaders are a PITA for fertilizing but if you must use one try making your application with the dew still on the grass and you can see your tire tracks.Just to be safe, use a half rate and go two directions. Also, when you look at the bag, there are three numbers associated with the fertilizer. These numbers in order are Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium. The higher number of Nitrogen usually means the more potential for burn so it needs to be watered in right away.
So does the burn occur from the Nitrogren absorbing water from the blades of grass? I am curious then about the fertilizers with weed killers in them that recommend watering the grass before spreading and advise against watering it, like Scott's 2nd step fertilizer. Seems like this would be more apt to burn.
The weed killer needs to "stick" to the weeds for some time. Thus putting it down when the lawn is damp and NOT watering it in.
I realize that. But if the fertilizer is acting at the same time to burn the grass, I don't think using a weed and feed is worth it.

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Here is my situation: I recently re-seeded my lawn and put compost/topsoil over the seed because the ground and dirt was not very good. A good amount of the seed has started to grow, but not all of it. I have cut the lawn twice since I put the seed down because the established grass was extremely long while the new grass is just sprouting.

Clovers and weeds are coming up everywhere. When can I put down some weed killer? After the new grass has grown long enough to cut twice? That may take a month or longer.

Also, I have a lot of evergreen trees in the backyard that I have plante over the past two years. How far away do I need to keep weed killer and fertilizer from them? The PDF posted earlier in this thread said to keep out of contact with the tree's roots.

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If I use Roundup on an area of grass to kill it in preparation of pulling it up, will the soil be so contaminated with roundup and be unable to sustain bushes and scrubs?

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Im in Ontario and we basically cant buy or use any sort of herbicide or pesticide starting this season. Real PITA. Only way to get rid of weeds is pull em. I have some weed n feed left from last year, but have one nosy neighbour that would surely call the city if he sees me using it.I think there will be a lot more traffic heading down to the Home Depot in Buffalo. And a lot of people working on their lawns at night up here. :lmao:

I'd think you could use some homemade pesticide that is supposed to be environment friendly. I've seen them on different blogs but don't have a link right now.

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Let's get some numbers here. I measured mine. Typical setting has deck 2-1/4" off the ground which puts the blade at about 3-1/2" high. My highest setting puts the deck at 3-1/4" high for cutting height of about 4-1/2" high. Sounds high, but it looks good. Afraid it's going to look out of control 4 days after I cut, though.

Decided to split the difference and see how it plays out. It was already looking a little shaggy after two days.
Here is my lawn 4 days after cutting. Does it look too unkempt at this height?
That's ideal if you ask me. I know it may "look" better when cut a little bit lower but the height you have means strong root system below. And your grass has that great dark green look.
I agree with this.

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Im in Ontario and we basically cant buy or use any sort of herbicide or pesticide starting this season. Real PITA. Only way to get rid of weeds is pull em. I have some weed n feed left from last year, but have one nosy neighbour that would surely call the city if he sees me using it.I think there will be a lot more traffic heading down to the Home Depot in Buffalo. And a lot of people working on their lawns at night up here. :bag:

I would think that it would still be OK to use what you already have in stock. What else are you supposed to do with it, dump it in the garbage and contaminate the landfill? :bag:
Get fined if caught using it or dumping it. They do a garbage pickup for this stuff, or we can bring to the landfill where they dispose of it properly. Ill be keeping mine for some night time fertilizing though. Have to wait and time it for when the moon is right and the weeds are at their peak.Putting weed n feed shouldnt be too bad actually, as without seeing the bag it will be hard for anyone to tell its not just fertilizer. I have an apple tree I spray though, and like to use roundup on the weeds. Harder to do that stuff now.
Is it only synthetic herbicides and peticides or can you use organic methods. An organic pre-emergent like corn gluten meal can be used in the spring to prevent things like dandelions and crabgrass from coming up. If they don't permit environmentally friendly organic methods then I'd start ripping out lawn and putting in more planting beds and patios, etc. so one has less lawn to fuss over by hand.
Can use organic and the corn gluten can be used. From what I heard its not very effective though? Pretty large lot (1/4 acre) Ill still have a ton of grass no matter what else we put in.Went out tonight with some roundup to take care of some weeds. :ph34r: Edited by gmbacm

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If I use Roundup on an area of grass to kill it in preparation of pulling it up, will the soil be so contaminated with roundup and be unable to sustain bushes and scrubs?

Bump.

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If I use Roundup on an area of grass to kill it in preparation of pulling it up, will the soil be so contaminated with roundup and be unable to sustain bushes and scrubs?

Bump.
not at all - id give it a week or so but no longterm effects.

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There is a misconception that the dog's urine has a high ph balance and that's why it kills grass. In reality, the harmful nutrient that is in dog uring is nitrogen. Sound familiar? It's the very same thing that Scott's puts in it's fertilizer to make your grass green and beautiful. The problem with dog urine is that it has a very concentrated amount of nitrogen in a very small area. As it sinks into the soil, it goes deep, but also wide. As it disperses out, it's concentration is lower and actually impoves your grass. But in the middle, it's too strong and kills it. That's why if you look at teh grass immediately surrounding the dead spot caused by your dog, it is a very lush, dark green.

I inherited a beautiful lawn when I bought my house in 2002. Unfortunately, my female golden retriever was leaving horrible pee burns everywhere. I tried the pills that were supposed to help (they are a ripoff), I tried following her around with a hose and watering where she went, and I tried using a sprinkler to constantly water the entire lawn. Nothing worked, so I went to plan B. I retrained my dog to go in a specific area. It is an area that has small white pebbles. It was quite a battle and caused my dog anxiety. She was soo confused as to why the grass was suddenly "bad". But after a two month battle, she adapted and I haven't had a pee burn in four years.

:POWERPOSTING:
Chase the dog so he moves around when he's peeing?

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Is killing dandelions (existing) possible without Roundup, etc.?

I saw the tip about corn gluten for prevention, but anything that kills the existing ones?

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I realize that. But if the fertilizer is acting at the same time to burn the grass, I don't think using a weed and feed is worth it.

The nitrogen sources in most formulations with weed control have a slow release nitrogen source. That way you can get away without watering for 24 hours without risk of burning, usually.

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Is killing dandelions (existing) possible without Roundup, etc.?I saw the tip about corn gluten for prevention, but anything that kills the existing ones?

Feed the lawn on a regular basis and let the grass out compete the weeds. If I remember, you have newly seeded lawn so I would wait to add a weed and feed type fertilizer until your grass is deeper rooted. Growing in a lawn from seed is a slow process but if you feed it, mow it and water it properly, the turf will win that battle everytime.

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Would covering with top soil some of these burned areas help? As posted earlier I burned some areas with fertilizer this weekend

I did this last year in an area siding wash burned/bleached. Came back nicely.Not sure if it is exactly the same, but worth a try.

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Is killing dandelions (existing) possible without Roundup, etc.?I saw the tip about corn gluten for prevention, but anything that kills the existing ones?

Scotts Weed & Feed will kill them GB. Getting ready to put down an application this weekend for that very reason.

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If I use Roundup on an area of grass to kill it in preparation of pulling it up, will the soil be so contaminated with roundup and be unable to sustain bushes and scrubs?

No...especially if you wait a day or two after you pull up the grass. I created two huge beds on each side of our house this way...no issues.

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There back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mushrooms are starting to appear. I go through this every year and they just keep coming back with more friends.

I'm located in NW Indiana and we have had our fare share of moisture. Always apply Scotts, yard is a nice dark green well maintained with spots of clover (I'm treating right now with Ortho). Saw some white shrooms last night, ususally don't appear until late June. The next wave will be the small brown ones followed by the big dark brown ones. I'm told it has to do with the soil. Well short of tearing up the yard and replacing the soil does anyone have a remedy to eliminate this things?

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Would covering with top soil some of these burned areas help? As posted earlier I burned some areas with fertilizer this weekend

Your on the right track here. Get a bag of silica sand and mix it with the mulch. Weed eat the burned areas and topdress with the sand/mulch mix. Hand water as needed.

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Is killing dandelions (existing) possible without Roundup, etc.?I saw the tip about corn gluten for prevention, but anything that kills the existing ones?

Scotts Weed & Feed will kill them GB. Getting ready to put down an application this weekend for that very reason.
There could be a problem with this. Depending on how long ago Britney Spears planted his seed, the herbicide in the weed and feed could damage or prevent seedlings from germinating. I'm of the opinion that newly seeded lawns should be allowed to grow-in for at least a full growing season before any chemical applications are made.

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I used to love Honeysuckle when I was a kid. I'm now convinced it is the vilest weed on earth. Its overtaking the entire yard. I'm thinking flamethrower.

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