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DSLR Camera Guys (1 Viewer)

Will be purchasing the Panasonic FZ200 for the wife's Christmas present this week. We have an older DSLR that can superzoom with a dedicated lens but it never gets used due to its bulk. The FZ200 seems to be the best fit for us - lots of bird photography and travel photos.
I think the FZ200 is a great camera. Most people will never be able to shoot with F2.8 super tele lenses any other way. But are you 100% sure it's the best compliment to the dSLR w/superzoom lens you already have? Have you held it in your hand because it's almost as big as a dSLR. If you have a chance to actually handle them both I'd suggest looking at both the FZ200 and the Sony DSC-HX50V and get a good idea of the size/weight difference between the two. Also, the Sony is at it's lowest price right now($300) and roughly 2/3rds the price of the Panasonic.....

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-DSC-HX50V-20-4MP-Digital-Camera/dp/B00CDIK48U/ref=pd_cp_p_2

 
Still shooting in auto on my D3200, but i noticed the shutter speed it a lot better when using the viewfinder. Is that common? Either way, I think the lady and I will be taking a photography class at the local JC this summer.

Question- Can you guys recommend a decent post production software or website? Would prefer something that wont kill me ($) as this isn't my main hobby (drawing and painting is)

 
Still shooting in auto on my D3200, but i noticed the shutter speed it a lot better when using the viewfinder. Is that common? Either way, I think the lady and I will be taking a photography class at the local JC this summer.

Question- Can you guys recommend a decent post production software or website? Would prefer something that wont kill me ($) as this isn't my main hobby (drawing and painting is)
Here's some recommendations...

Don't shoot on auto. You will end up disappointed.

Put it on aperture priority.

Spend a few minutes absorbing this

http://tamminowackphotography.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/aperature_comparison.jpg

and this

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_hFh548PgCu0/TGIGGwsa0FI/AAAAAAAAAAc/1WIycSlvYwg/s1600/aperture.jpg

So now you understand what different apertures mean for your depth of field...

Next, remember this rule of thumb: Whatever focal length you are shooting at, you want the shutter speed there or better. As a for instance, if you are shooting at 50 mm, you need shutter speed at 1/50th or better (1/100th is better). This will prevent blur on typical subjects.

If you choose your aperture, and cannot achieve your rule of thumb shutter speed, you need to increase your ISO. Increase ISO until you either achieve your shutter speed or reach 6400, which is likely unusable.

ISO rules of thumb:

Outdoors and clear, ISO 100

Outdoors and cloudy / overcast, ISO 200

Dusk / Indoors and good light, ISO 400

Indoors and not great light, ISO 800 or 1600

Finally, don't use your flash.

 
Also, I recommend Lightroom for post-processing software. It is not expensive
Same here.

Watch Newegg.com in particular for some reason. You just missed a $60 deal for Lightroom 5. Last year in January I got a Lightroom+memory card from Newegg for $50.

Lightroom is really one of the last reasons I still need a Windows computer. To the best of my knowledge there isn't a full featured alternative for Android that handles RAW files.

 
Wife wants a zoom lens for her Canon Rebel XTi

She mainly does family photos and that kind of thing

We don't want to break the bank but would consider spending $200-$300

Looks like in that range is a canon 55-250 or 70-300 and from what I've read the 55-250 sounds like the better choice

Thoughts on those 2? Any other good alternatives?
Can't really go wrong with the EF 75-300mm III for $80 imo.....http://shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/catalog/lenses-flashes/refurbished-lenses/ef-75-300mm-f-4-56-iii-telephoto-zoom-refurbished?WT.mc_id=C126149

The one you really want imo is the 70-200mm/F4 but the lowest I've ever seen it is over $400. Maybe you can find a great deal on eBay though.
I didn't have any luck with my 75-300, but I might've had a bad copy. Had the 55-250 for a bit and liked it. The 70-200 f/4 is worth every penny if u can get a copy. Check the fredmiranda boards buy and sale forum. I got a pretty beat up copy on there a while back that is optically excellent. Just check feedback same as eBay. You can generally trust peoples grading on there more than ebay though, because they know what they are talking about and worship their gear.

 
When taking reference photos for art projects we were always taught to not use the flash. Usually ends up with a washed out photo. I much prefer natural light.

 
When taking reference photos for art projects we were always taught to not use the flash. Usually ends up with a washed out photo. I much prefer natural light.
There are plenty of situations that warrant use of a flash. I highly prefer natural lighting, but you can't always control ambient light. You'll end up with a good number of garbage shots if you're slavishly adhering to a "no flash" mantra.

 
Finally, don't use your flash.
While a lot of people don't know how to use their flash (or have a good one), this is pretty terrible advice.
bounce baby bounce. 99% of the time when using a flash I never point it at my subject
That works well if you have the right flash, but not for the out of the box D3200.

edit to add: maybe not so fast...

http://howto.cnet.com/8301-11310_39-57474371-285/how-to-make-a-supersimple-bounce-flash-for-your-dslr/

Interesting, will have to try that

 
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When taking reference photos for art projects we were always taught to not use the flash. Usually ends up with a washed out photo. I much prefer natural light.
There are plenty of situations that warrant use of a flash. I highly prefer natural lighting, but you can't always control ambient light. You'll end up with a good number of garbage shots if you're slavishly adhering to a "no flash" mantra.
Disagree... I shoot a decent amount and do not use flash.

Of course, you need a nice low light lens. My f/1.8 35mm gets me by for most all of my shots. I would much prefer a slightly grainy no flash shot than a lower ISO flash shot.

The true point of it is that in Auto your camera quickly jumps into flash mode for situations that you can get by easily without it, and can save what would be a disappointing photo

 
Still shooting in auto on my D3200, but i noticed the shutter speed it a lot better when using the viewfinder. Is that common? Either way, I think the lady and I will be taking a photography class at the local JC this summer.

Question- Can you guys recommend a decent post production software or website? Would prefer something that wont kill me ($) as this isn't my main hobby (drawing and painting is)
I'm cheap and I've found Picasa + Adobe photoshop elements works for my needs. Elements can handle RAW and can do everything I used to want to do in the full photoshop save for curves corrections... In other words, elements is pretty darn powerful. I've considered Lightroom now that I'm shooting more in manual and it would be nice to tell the computer "these 20 pictures were shot with the same exposure... Please do this exact modification on all of them". Alas, I'm cheap and I'm Picasa + Elements does wonders for me for $40.
 
if the choice is between

A: get the shot with the onboard flash or B:not being able to take it

then the flash is always the way to go

 
HT: Agree...if all else fails, of course use flash, but it should not be in Plan A or B
Completely agree with wilked here.

I have an external flash that I use most often as fill flash when the subject is in harsh lighting that would lead to really dark shadows. In even rarer circumstanced I use it to bounce or with one of those diffusers that fold up. Those popup flashes that are built into the low/medium end cameras always seem like a nightmare to use and require a MacGuyver solution. There's definitely a reason the high end cameras don't even bother with a built in flash.

 
Will be purchasing the Panasonic FZ200 for the wife's Christmas present this week. We have an older DSLR that can superzoom with a dedicated lens but it never gets used due to its bulk. The FZ200 seems to be the best fit for us - lots of bird photography and travel photos.
Amazon has the FZ200 as a lightning deal coming up at 10:50AM Eastern.

 
Will be purchasing the Panasonic FZ200 for the wife's Christmas present this week. We have an older DSLR that can superzoom with a dedicated lens but it never gets used due to its bulk. The FZ200 seems to be the best fit for us - lots of bird photography and travel photos.
Amazon has the FZ200 as a lightning deal coming up at 10:50AM Eastern.
Finally bought this, cant beat it for $359.99

 
Just ordered the Sony NEX-3N as my first compact system camera. Am I going to want an additional lens to the included 16-50 retractable lens? I'm going to be taking pictures of the kids, vacation photos, etc. Not looking for a full blown hobby, just want better quality than the old point and shoot I was using.

 
Just ordered the Sony NEX-3N as my first compact system camera. Am I going to want an additional lens to the included 16-50 retractable lens? I'm going to be taking pictures of the kids, vacation photos, etc. Not looking for a full blown hobby, just want better quality than the old point and shoot I was using.
That's a nice camera and will be a big bump from the average P&S. I would just live with it for awhile and you'll know what lens(es) you are missing if you are missing any at all.

If you find that you need to crop too often because the 50mm end of the zoom isn't long enough then you can always add a longer zoom later(especially for soccer shots etc). If you find that you have to push the ISO too high and aren't able to tame the added noise with noise reduction software then maybe you should go for a faster prime lens(for low-light indoor shots for instance).

The only thing I would suggest buying right now is an extra battery and extra memory card. One of the nicest things about these mirrorless cameras with pancake lenses is you don't even need a camera bag.

 
Just ordered the Sony NEX-3N as my first compact system camera. Am I going to want an additional lens to the included 16-50 retractable lens? I'm going to be taking pictures of the kids, vacation photos, etc. Not looking for a full blown hobby, just want better quality than the old point and shoot I was using.
First, that's a great camera.

I am a big fan of a fast prime, something like 35 mm.

The advice above is fantastic, though, try it out and see what / where you end up shooting. If you find yourself shooting indoors in low light often and aren't satisfied with the high ISO results, you might need this

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-SEL35F18-35mm-Prime-Fixed/dp/B0096W1P5W

 
Can't believe I missed the lightning deal on the FZ200. I actually bought the camera from Amazon that same day (December 17), but paid $429. I chatted with Amazon and was able to get them to refund me $20 at least since the camera is priced at $409 today. I asked if they would price match the lightning deal $359.99 price, but no luck.

 
Buddy Ball 2K3 said:
pantagrapher said:
Buddy Ball 2K3 said:
Buddy Ball 2K3 said:
Got my FZ200 and now I want to get a few toys to go with it.

Is this the tripod to get? (must be amazon/prime)
Decided to go with this Manfrotto 190XPROB since it was on sale today
Manfrotto makes some great tripods. They also make awesome monopods, if you ever make the transition to shooting digital video.
Do you have a suggestion on a mono?
I keep waiting for this one to go on sale but I've never seen it below $90...

http://www.amazon.com/SIRUI-P-326-Section-Carbon-Monopod/dp/B004QC6VAG/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1387682994&sr=1-2&keywords=6+monopod+carbon+fibre

... I like the fact that it has 6 sections so it's small, it's made of carbon fiber so it's light, it uses round twist fasteners, and it's reviews are nearly flawless.

In the spring I'll probably just pull the trigger on this monopod. I have one now that is bigger, heavier, and uses the old clamps that take longer to extend and have a tendency to catch on things. In the grand scheme of things I wish I just would have bought a nice one in the first place as it will last a lifetime while the actual cameras will come and go.

 
Got my FZ200 and now I want to get a few toys to go with it.

Is this the tripod to get? (must be amazon/prime)
Decided to go with this Manfrotto 190XPROB since it was on sale today
Manfrotto makes some great tripods. They also make awesome monopods, if you ever make the transition to shooting digital video.
Do you have a suggestion on a mono?
I keep waiting for this one to go on sale but I've never seen it below $90...http://www.amazon.com/SIRUI-P-326-Section-Carbon-Monopod/dp/B004QC6VAG/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1387682994&sr=1-2&keywords=6+monopod+carbon+fibre

... I like the fact that it has 6 sections so it's small, it's made of carbon fiber so it's light, it uses round twist fasteners, and it's reviews are nearly flawless.

In the spring I'll probably just pull the trigger on this monopod. I have one now that is bigger, heavier, and uses the old clamps that take longer to extend and have a tendency to catch on things. In the grand scheme of things I wish I just would have bought a nice one in the first place as it will last a lifetime while the actual cameras will come and go.
Great, thanks for the suggestion. Took a bunch of pictures of my dog in front of the Christmas tree and got a few that I like. Really like the FZ200 so far.

 
Just got Lightroom 5 for Christmas.

I've been a four year user of Photoshop Elements and wondering how similar these programs are. (I haven't loaded Lightroom yet)
I know there are a lot of YouTube turtorials - but can anyone recommend a single text book resource for step by step helps for different features for LR5?

TIA

 
Just got Lightroom 5 for Christmas.

I've been a four year user of Photoshop Elements and wondering how similar these programs are. (I haven't loaded Lightroom yet)

I know there are a lot of YouTube turtorials - but can anyone recommend a single text book resource for step by step helps for different features for LR5?

TIA
I've got Scott Kelby's book on LR4. I refer to it a lot. I think he has one for LR5 out now.

 
I got the Fujifilm Finepix XS1 for Christmas. Really like it so far, though I know little to nothing about photography. Seemed like a good upgrade from our point-and-shoot, without the inconveniences of a DSLR. If nothing else, it's gotten me excited to take some pictures!

 
Still shooting in auto on my D3200, but i noticed the shutter speed it a lot better when using the viewfinder. Is that common? Either way, I think the lady and I will be taking a photography class at the local JC this summer.

Question- Can you guys recommend a decent post production software or website? Would prefer something that wont kill me ($) as this isn't my main hobby (drawing and painting is)
Here's some recommendations...Don't shoot on auto. You will end up disappointed.

Put it on aperture priority.

Spend a few minutes absorbing this

http://tamminowackphotography.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/aperature_comparison.jpg

and this

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_hFh548PgCu0/TGIGGwsa0FI/AAAAAAAAAAc/1WIycSlvYwg/s1600/aperture.jpg

So now you understand what different apertures mean for your depth of field...

Next, remember this rule of thumb: Whatever focal length you are shooting at, you want the shutter speed there or better. As a for instance, if you are shooting at 50 mm, you need shutter speed at 1/50th or better (1/100th is better). This will prevent blur on typical subjects.

If you choose your aperture, and cannot achieve your rule of thumb shutter speed, you need to increase your ISO. Increase ISO until you either achieve your shutter speed or reach 6400, which is likely unusable.

ISO rules of thumb:

Outdoors and clear, ISO 100

Outdoors and cloudy / overcast, ISO 200

Dusk / Indoors and good light, ISO 400

Indoors and not great light, ISO 800 or 1600

Finally, don't use your flash.
.
 
My next purchase is going to be the Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II USM.

I noticed that the lens has an on/off switch for the IS. Can anyone tell me why you would want that switched off?

 
My next purchase is going to be the Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II USM.

I noticed that the lens has an on/off switch for the IS. Can anyone tell me why you would want that switched off?
When your camera is mounted on a tripod the IS tries to compensate for camera shake when there isn't any... and this can cause camera shake. So in general handheld IS is very, very good but on a tripod no IS is better. So many people just set their IS on all the time and never think to take it off that many new lenses actually shut off IS automatically when it detects that the lens is mounted on a tripod.

The 70-200/2.8 is a world class lens but if you are dropping that kind of dough on a lens you might consider renting it first and maybe renting the 70-200/4 at some point before purchasing as well. Obviously there's a big difference in price but there is also a big difference in weight.There are specific uses for the F/2.8 that make it a much better than the F/4(for instance at an indoor sporting even where they won't allow you to use a tripod) but for many people the F/4 probably makes more sense. I was shopping for the the F/4 without IS for the longest time because the price is ~1/4th the price of the the F/2.8 with IS and it's far too easy for me to find an excuse to leave heavy/expensive equipment sitting at home. Just a few of those heavy lenses in your camera bag can have a negative impact on how you take photos imo in ways people don't always take into account.

 
Got my FZ200 and now I want to get a few toys to go with it.

Is this the tripod to get? (must be amazon/prime)
Decided to go with this Manfrotto 190XPROB since it was on sale today
Need suggestions on a ball head for this. I got Amazon gift cards burning a hole in my pocket.
Bump for some suggestions on a ball head and decent camera bag on the smaller side
I think both are highly personal so it's tough to give a recommendation other than decide on a general style, then read the reviews carefully on Amazon before pulling the trigger.

Ball head really depends on the weight of your equipment and whether you'll be doing a lot of video. I generally shoot with light equipment, on a monopod rather than a tripod most of the time, and almost never shoot video so I'm definitely not spending much. But if you use your camera differently than myself you may need much higher end equipment than I do.

Bags can run the gamut. Some people just want a sling(and I own one) but I always find myself wishing I had room for more stuff. it's not often I'm going on a hike long enough that I want to carry a camera sling but don't want to carry a jacket/water/food/etc with me as well. Some of the photography backpacks can be incredibly over priced imo. Not only that but if you are traveling to dicey locations the big name brands can be like a neon sign, "EXPENSIVE ELECTRONICS INSIDE". My general advice is get a pack that just looks like a generic backpack and don't pay a ton for padding/waterproofing. Just focus on getting a pack that has a compartment you can quickly get your equipment in/out of when the need arises. A discreet looking pack that allows you to easily remove the camera without taking the pack completely off your body is best. IMO you can buy extra padding and buy one of those cans of spray that waterproof almost anything to turn a cheap pack into something very, very similar to one of those high end packs that go for hundreds of dollars. If you are in an especially wet/humid climate just get those food baggies with zip locks and keep those moisture wicking packs that almost all electronics ship with.

 
My next purchase is going to be the Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II USM.

I noticed that the lens has an on/off switch for the IS. Can anyone tell me why you would want that switched off?
When your camera is mounted on a tripod the IS tries to compensate for camera shake when there isn't any... and this can cause camera shake. So in general handheld IS is very, very good but on a tripod no IS is better. So many people just set their IS on all the time and never think to take it off that many new lenses actually shut off IS automatically when it detects that the lens is mounted on a tripod. The 70-200/2.8 is a world class lens but if you are dropping that kind of dough on a lens you might consider renting it first and maybe renting the 70-200/4 at some point before purchasing as well. Obviously there's a big difference in price but there is also a big difference in weight.There are specific uses for the F/2.8 that make it a much better than the F/4(for instance at an indoor sporting even where they won't allow you to use a tripod) but for many people the F/4 probably makes more sense. I was shopping for the the F/4 without IS for the longest time because the price is ~1/4th the price of the the F/2.8 with IS and it's far too easy for me to find an excuse to leave heavy/expensive equipment sitting at home. Just a few of those heavy lenses in your camera bag can have a negative impact on how you take photos imo in ways people don't always take into account.
Excellent - I wasn't aware of that regarding the IS.

...and yeah that lens is the "blue ribbon" but I as much as I hate doing weddings for friends I left a lot of income out of my wallet just because I don't want to shoot one without this lens. In the last month alone I've had 4 couples inquire so that put me over the edge. The local camera shop keeps trying to convince me to do a trial with the Tamron equivalent because it has been "graded" slightly higher and is $1K less but I can't believe that over time (5 - 10 years) the Tamron would hold up with even moderate use.

Thanks for the reply!

 
...and yeah that lens is the "blue ribbon" but I as much as I hate doing weddings for friends I left a lot of income out of my wallet just because I don't want to shoot one without this lens. In the last month alone I've had 4 couples inquire so that put me over the edge. The local camera shop keeps trying to convince me to do a trial with the Tamron equivalent because it has been "graded" slightly higher and is $1K less but I can't believe that over time (5 - 10 years) the Tamron would hold up with even moderate use.Thanks for the reply!
The 4 couples inquired about that specific lens? Interesting.(sorry, misread) As the photographer at a wedding I thought you would have so much access that the 200mm end would kind of be overkill. I would think the Canon 135mm/2.0 would be the perfect wedding lens at a substantial savings. It's one of the sharpest lenses you can buy. I've also seen some amazing macro shots from weddings so it might be tempting to go with the 100mm/2.8 macro IS if you really felt you needed the IS.

I've also heard excellent things about the Tamron equivalent(at least the latest version). Unless you plan on using the lens in a particularly challenging climate I wouldn't hesitate to consider it. I doubt if the weather sealing is on par with Canon "L" equipment but as far as image quality goes I don't think there is a great deal of difference.

 
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My next purchase is going to be the Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II USM.

I noticed that the lens has an on/off switch for the IS. Can anyone tell me why you would want that switched off?
I have that exact lens and it's awesome. Fast becoming my favorite.

 
Just ordered the Sony NEX-3N as my first compact system camera. Am I going to want an additional lens to the included 16-50 retractable lens? I'm going to be taking pictures of the kids, vacation photos, etc. Not looking for a full blown hobby, just want better quality than the old point and shoot I was using.
First, that's a great camera.

I am a big fan of a fast prime, something like 35 mm.

The advice above is fantastic, though, try it out and see what / where you end up shooting. If you find yourself shooting indoors in low light often and aren't satisfied with the high ISO results, you might need this

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-SEL35F18-35mm-Prime-Fixed/dp/B0096W1P5W
this looks like a great compact camera that is really easy for those of us who aren't pros. one of the things i read in the reviews on amazon was about the lack of viewfinder and some other things. what's the big deal there? other reviews had a sort of consensus saying the higher end one was preferable. but i would rather not spend that kind of money, it was much more money. are the upgrades that worth it? my other issue before purchasing is that there might be something better worth waiting for down the line. and not just by sony. i'm also seeing camera phones take leaps and bounds in improvement on the camera side of things so will a camera like this be obsolete in the not too distant future? thank you.

 
this looks like a great compact camera that is really easy for those of us who aren't pros. one of the things i read in the reviews on amazon was about the lack of viewfinder and some other things. what's the big deal there? other reviews had a sort of consensus saying the higher end one was preferable. but i would rather not spend that kind of money, it was much more money. are the upgrades that worth it? my other issue before purchasing is that there might be something better worth waiting for down the line. and not just by sony. i'm also seeing camera phones take leaps and bounds in improvement on the camera side of things so will a camera like this be obsolete in the not too distant future? thank you.
- In any reviews you are always going to find the post that says, "You should really by 'X".... sure, it costs 4x as much but....." so it really depends on what features you need.

- There will always be something better worth waiting for down the line. Always. Forever.

- Phones have improved leaps and bounds... but that's compared to previous phones and not compared to previous cameras. IMO the recent NOKIA have just started reaching the level of inexpensive P&S cameras.

 
My next purchase is going to be the Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II USM.

I noticed that the lens has an on/off switch for the IS. Can anyone tell me why you would want that switched off?
I have that exact lens and it's awesome. Fast becoming my favorite.
Was it hard getting used too? Was it more sensitive when you first started using it?

Sorry if that's not a clear question, I just know when I first bought my full frame and the 50m 1.4 and got home to use it, I thought I had made a terrible mistake getting way over my head. Now of course I love it but it took some getting used to. Just curious if I should be ready for a little bit of an adjustment period.

 
thank you bb. so is the lower end nex a buy in your opinion at that current amazon price?
I think there are a lot of bargains currently in the APS-C sensor market and the NEX line is one of them. If you want to shoot mostly telephoto/outdoor or if you want to own a lot of lenses then dSLR is a better option. If you want to shoot telephoto/outdoor but don't want to invest in lenses then a great superzoom like the FZ200 is a great option in one package even if it does have a small sensor. For general mixed shooting with just a few different lenses the mirrorless options like the NEX are tough to beat.

If you aren't really sure which system you'll like the Canon M is a flexible choice in that you can use an adapter to use the extensive line of Canon EF lenses. Later, if you decided you'd rather have a dSLR you could use your EF lenses on either camera which is nice. If you go that route make sure you update the firmware on the camera though because the original firmware on the M was bad and led to a lot of poor initial reviews. A new Canon M has already been announced so you can find killer deals on the first generation on the M from time to time if you aren't in a hurry and can wait for a deal to fall to you. I've seen a few deals on the M closer to $200 than $400 in the past few months.

 
My next purchase is going to be the Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II USM.

I noticed that the lens has an on/off switch for the IS. Can anyone tell me why you would want that switched off?
I have that exact lens and it's awesome. Fast becoming my favorite.
Was it hard getting used too? Was it more sensitive when you first started using it?

Sorry if that's not a clear question, I just know when I first bought my full frame and the 50m 1.4 and got home to use it, I thought I had made a terrible mistake getting way over my head. Now of course I love it but it took some getting used to. Just curious if I should be ready for a little bit of an adjustment period.
well, it won't double expose Asian girls' faces if that's what you're after

 

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