AAABatteries
Footballguy
Looks great. Seems close to the house - what’s the code where you are?
I like the look of those bricks, where did you get them?
Looks great. Seems close to the house - what’s the code where you are?
Code? it’s in my backyard behind the garage, if the city tells me to move it I guess I’d move it, but I’m generally one not to get the city involved in my home improvements unless I have toLooks great. Seems close to the house - what’s the code where you are?
I like the look of those bricks, where did you get them?
hmm wondering about a a fire pit myself. got extra retaining wall stones to build one myself. hoping to put up a fence quick enough so i don't have anybody peeping at all the permits i will be ignoring to build in my backyardCode? it’s in my backyard behind the garage, if the city tells me to move it I guess I’d move it, but I’m generally one not to get the city involved in my home improvements unless I have to
Home Depot. Think it might be these but not positive same model
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oldcastle-Beltis-4-in-x-11-in-x-6-in-Tan-Charcoal-Concrete-Retaining-Wall-Block-140-Pieces-Pallet-16253217/311781599
i did in my rental. but i went with a 6x6 because i had a piece laying around. The 2x4 flange could be just as good though. good news is that is nice a cheap to do, so if not good enough easy to fix.Today is my first day of a 90 day furlough. I have a decent sized list of home repair work going.
One of the bigger projects involves reducing the bounce of the floor in the dining room. If you step strongly or quickly, it makes the dishes rattle in the cabinet.
I have access to the floor from underneath, as there's a decent height crawl space (hands and knees, can sit cross legged underneath the joists). I've been researching ways to stiffen the joists and I think I'll be adding a 2x4 "flange" to the bottom of the joists with the most bounce. Glue and screw with a brace in the center until the adhesive cures. I've read this is more effective than sistering the joist with another 2x10.
Anyone done anything like this?
hard to say. you likely would only use the tiller once, maybe twice, but it certainly wouldnt hurt. might be worth waiting a week or 2 to see if they open the rental places so you can jsut rent one. i have been able to rent some stuff lately from a garden store and a hardware store, so you might be in luckQuestion for anyone with experience on tillers.
Last summer, we had our pool taken out. I laid black sod over the top, and laid down some grass seed before it snowed. After it snowed, I discovered I didn't lay near enough seed (I put down the recommended amount for a normal fall re-seed, not enough to seed a blank canvas of black dirt). So now I have just sparse bits of grass coming through. I now want to get sod and lay it down so I can finally once and for all have a decent lawn.
So here's my question. I appears I should till the soil and mix in some fertilized to prepare for the sod. The equipment rental places around here are all closed, so I can't rent a decent piece of equipment. Is a $100-$150 tiller worth it? It looks like they are designed for gardens, but I have at least 1600+ sq of yard to prepare. I'll only use this thing once most likely, but I don't want to spend that much and have it not be able to do the job. Thoughts?
Why do you think you need to till it? When we redid ball fields we just cut the top layer, regrade and sod. So what I'm saying is you could just loosen the soil, and roll out sod. You don't need to mix in a bunch of fertilizerQuestion for anyone with experience on tillers.
Last summer, we had our pool taken out. I laid black sod over the top, and laid down some grass seed before it snowed. After it snowed, I discovered I didn't lay near enough seed (I put down the recommended amount for a normal fall re-seed, not enough to seed a blank canvas of black dirt). So now I have just sparse bits of grass coming through. I now want to get sod and lay it down so I can finally once and for all have a decent lawn.
So here's my question. I appears I should till the soil and mix in some fertilized to prepare for the sod. The equipment rental places around here are all closed, so I can't rent a decent piece of equipment. Is a $100-$150 tiller worth it? It looks like they are designed for gardens, but I have at least 1600+ sq of yard to prepare. I'll only use this thing once most likely, but I don't want to spend that much and have it not be able to do the job. Thoughts?
Rental places recently opened up for curbside pickup, so my procrastination saved me a purchase.hard to say. you likely would only use the tiller once, maybe twice, but it certainly wouldnt hurt. might be worth waiting a week or 2 to see if they open the rental places so you can jsut rent one. i have been able to rent some stuff lately from a garden store and a hardware store, so you might be in luck
I think I need to till and fertilize it because that's what the websites say are the best steps to take to lay sod. I want to do everything I can, since several years ago, the area behind this used to be overgrown. I had it cleared and sod laid by a small landscaping company. It is now more weeds than grass. I want to give this new section the best start I can, since it butts up against the weedy area I am battling.Why do you think you need to till it? When we redid ball fields we just cut the top layer, regrade and sod. So what I'm saying is you could just loosen the soil, and roll out sod. You don't need to mix in a bunch of fertilizer
How old is your house? Have you done this before?Next up is replacing a couple entry doors
The house is roughly 30 years old and it will be my first time.How old is your house? Have you done this before?
No, it's not bad. Your house should be uniform on measurements unless it was stick-built by anti-govt rebels.The house is roughly 30 years old and it will be my first time.
One door leads to the garage and the other leads to the deck. I’m a little concerned I may find wood rot around the deck door.
Am I crazy to tackle this myself? From the research I’ve done it doesn’t seem that bad.
One of the reasons I’m replacing them is they don’t close tightly and even with new weather-stripping there are still gaps. I think to address that problem I need to go pre-hung. I’m open to suggestions.No, it's not bad. Your house should be uniform on measurements unless it was stick-built by anti-govt rebels.
Are you getting prehung doors or just replacing the slabs?
I see. You're going to have to rip out the old jambs, header, sill, and exterior trim. When you put the new unit in, make sure it's plumb/level - have long drywall screws on hand with a bunch of shims. You may also have to redo your keeper space in the jamb for the lock. Houses settle over time and throw doors out of whack (they also could have not been installed correctly in the first place). Patch whatever rot you have behind the stuff you take out.One of the reasons I’m replacing them is they don’t close tightly and even with new weather-stripping there are still gaps. I think to address that problem I need to go pre-hung. I’m open to suggestions.
Do you just not like spray foam and what is the reasoning behind not using spray foam. I ask because I replaced the door in my Reno and used spray foam. Thanks in advance.I see. You're going to have to rip out the old jambs, header, sill, and exterior trim. When you put the new unit in, make sure it's plumb/level - have long drywall screws on hand with a bunch of shims. You may also have to redo your keeper space in the jamb for the lock. Houses settle over time and throw doors out of whack (they also could have not been installed correctly in the first place). Patch whatever rot you have behind the stuff you take out.
DO NOT use that damned expanding spray foam to fill the open spaces. Take your time and press in some insulation. Caulk the outside, you should be good.
You should give crown molding a shot. It will add the perfect touch to your home!Making the cuts under the door jambs was by far the most time consuming part but that was more due to inexperience and being geometry challenged.
This is one of those jobs I have been looking at as well. I am in a manufactured home, does that make any difference?I see. You're going to have to rip out the old jambs, header, sill, and exterior trim. When you put the new unit in, make sure it's plumb/level - have long drywall screws on hand with a bunch of shims. You may also have to redo your keeper space in the jamb for the lock. Houses settle over time and throw doors out of whack (they also could have not been installed correctly in the first place). Patch whatever rot you have behind the stuff you take out.
DO NOT use that damned expanding spray foam to fill the open spaces. Take your time and press in some insulation. Caulk the outside, you should be good.
We both know that's not happening.This is one of those jobs I have been looking at as well. I am in a manufactured home, does that make any difference?
The smart thing to do here would be to pay a pro but financially I should do it myself. This project does scare me some.
So you own a voltmeter?I'm not sure if this is the right thread but I'll give it a shot. I have a ceiling fan and light controlled by a single switch and remote (no pull chains). Recently all 3 bulbs flickered and turned off. The fan still works fine. I checked the bulbs and they work fine. I checked the wiring on the light kit and the single pin connectors and that doesn't appear to be the issue. The bulbs are all within the maximum wattage allowed. Any thoughts?
You got me and your right thats not happening. I will have to read up on this before I get brave enough to tackle it. For starters I will have to google "what is plumb" I also need to repair the floor in front of the door. It has rotted from rain water getting in. I have the same problem at mty back door.We both know that's not happening.
It's not hard - stay level and plumb.
I'm assuming - but don't know for sure - that manufactured homes use standard door measurements. Maybe check with the home manufacturer?
- Tearing down VERY old tongue and groove paneling in attic to support attic improvement. Looking to add 300 to 400 sf. and at $700 to $800/sf in this area, this is some serious equity. I'll be serving as GC for new roof, new electrical (I'll probably lay some conduit myself), HVAC (just small furnace) and drywall (I will never do drywall again if I can help it). Hoping to be done this summer.
Search YouTube for hunter fan light flickering. It is an easy fix to open it up and remove a resistor block in the fan. My light started to flicker, then wouldn’t turn on. Once I removed the module, it worked fine.I'm not sure if this is the right thread but I'll give it a shot. I have a ceiling fan and light controlled by a single switch and remote (no pull chains). Recently all 3 bulbs flickered and turned off. The fan still works fine. I checked the bulbs and they work fine. I checked the wiring on the light kit and the single pin connectors and that doesn't appear to be the issue. The bulbs are all within the maximum wattage allowed. Any thoughts?
Sure, you can replace the collar ties. If you're using 4x4s, you may want to drill and bolt them through, though. You can countersink the bolt head and nut if you don't want them showing - just fill over them.So here's a question for you structural engineers on my attic remodel. Two questions in fact.
I am tearing out the old wood T&G paneling in the larger of the two rooms (the other was lathe and plaster). I'm starting to feel guilty about it but I just think I should get down to the studs and build up from there. Stuff has probably been there 100 years. At least 50.
- I have exposed down to the framing the peaked, cathedral ceiling (like this but 1906 version). There are collar ties that I'd like to expose when the drywall goes in. The current ties look poor, although they are solid old-growth legit 2x4s. Can I replace scrappy-looking collar ties in the attic with nicer wood 4x4s so I have nicer beams exposed?
- I am putting in Velux roof windows. They are beautiful. What kind of support to I need to add to the roof framing in addition to headers and footers to support the frame around the window install? I am hearing that some blocking to support in the bays next to the window insert is a good idea. Thoughts? Happy to do it. Or have the installers do it.
like @wilked suggested, a voltage meter would be a good start. you can get one pretty cheap. with fan working fine though i assume the motor is ok. i assume you tried new bulbs (even though they weren't the issue) and still didn't work? i would check the wiring in the light kit, and you may have to loosen fan and check wires connecting from a junction box.I'm not sure if this is the right thread but I'll give it a shot. I have a ceiling fan and light controlled by a single switch and remote (no pull chains). Recently all 3 bulbs flickered and turned off. The fan still works fine. I checked the bulbs and they work fine. I checked the wiring on the light kit and the single pin connectors and that doesn't appear to be the issue. The bulbs are all within the maximum wattage allowed. Any thoughts?
Thanks! Will drywall over the rafters so connection point won't be exposed. I'll probably bolt them on anyway as opposed to nail.Uruk-Hai said:Sure, you can replace the collar ties. If you're using 4x4s, you may want to drill and bolt them through, though. You can countersink the bolt head and nut if you don't want them showing - just fill over them.
Man, it's been 25 years since I sold Velux. It was the best product line I ever sold, in that I never ever got one call back - well, except for the nimrods who didn't want to flash them correctly.. I can't recall the framing requirements along the sides - sorry. I know they're made to fit between standard roof framing centers, but don't remember if you have to pad out between the window and the rafter, or outside of the rafter, or not at all. And blocking never hurts. I'm guessing they have installation instructions somewhere you could refer to?
Own a hose?Shed roof is officially done and it looks pretty good. The real proof in the pudding will be when the monsoons hit. Then I will see if there is any leaks or if the wind will just tear it away. I doubt the wind will be an issue as I used real roofing nails and they had used staples. The staple use is probably why I lost so many shingles in the first place. Time will tell but right now it looks pretty good and my wife was wrong I could do it ,so there is that as well.
I will wait for rain which honestly we don't see much of. Until proven otherwise I think the roof works perfect.Own a hose?
Yeah, I've got a lot of sprinkler problems as well. Two appear to have broken risers, two have no water coming out, and about half need adjustment of zone coverage and stream (basically a fire hydrant for several). Tried adjusting for over and hour on two and couldn't figure it out and pretty sure i made it worse.Dug up 4 sprinklers and added a couple of risers, but 1 zone is still not working. Think I’m going to have all solenoids/valves/wiring/controller replaced. Current controller is a POS.
Do the sprinkler still have the nozzle inserts in them?Yeah, I've got a lot of sprinkler problems as well. Two appear to have broken risers, two have no water coming out, and about half need adjustment of zone coverage and stream (basically a fire hydrant for several). Tried adjusting for over and hour on two and couldn't figure it out and pretty sure i made it worse.
Wow. That seems extreme. Can't say as I've ever hearing of anyone doing this. No luck with herbicides? Probably never have to mow that stuff.I’ve gone the opposite way with my lawn. I’ve ditched the herbicides and overseeded with clover. Slowly it is taking over and pushing the weeds and grass out.
it is always green the white flowers keep the bees happy.
I always felt clover looked nice, but i'm a lawn fanatic so it had to go.I’ve gone the opposite way with my lawn. I’ve ditched the herbicides and overseeded with clover. Slowly it is taking over and pushing the weeds and grass out.
it is always green the white flowers keep the bees happy.
Almost made the move to the pull behind a couple of years back. I still might at some point, but for now its still scotts and the backpack sprayer. Never, ever, ever again am I messing with the blue dye. That stuff gets everywhere and is impossible to get off.Just ordered a sprayer system for the back of my lawn tractor.
Despite $100's a year spent on Scotts 4 step fertilizer and weed control, I'm slowly losing the battle with weeds in my lawn.
Every year, more dandelions, crabgrass, clover, some viney strawberry looking things ... among other stuff.
The directions on the scotts bag of fertilizer / weed control say to "apply to wet lawn" so their fertilizer can stick to the leaf of the weed and kill it.
Problem is, even the water beads up and rolls off the weed leaf. Now the fertilizer just bounces off and falls to the ground as well.
Feeds the grass but as far as killing the weeds, waste of money.
The 16 gal sprayer will provide an even layer of "sticky" herbicide that won't harm the grass ...
and the cost of the herbicide, sticky solution, and dye, will be much less than the bagged scotts plan that I've been buying for years.
I've done a little research on how to attach, chemicals to use, and how to apply, if anyone is interested, ask away.
I considered the pull behind but I didn't like the limitations when backing up.NutterButter said:Almost made the move to the pull behind a couple of years back. I still might at some point, but for now its still scotts and the backpack sprayer. Never, ever, ever again am I messing with the blue dye. That stuff gets everywhere and is impossible to get off.
Our manufactured home had a Non standard from door. Infuriating when trying to replace the jamb after the wind rips open the screen door.We both know that's not happening.
It's not hard - stay level and plumb.
I'm assuming - but don't know for sure - that manufactured homes use standard door measurements. Maybe check with the home manufacturer?
You got a link? Curious to know what you're talking about if its not a pull behind.I considered the pull behind but I didn't like the limitations when backing up.
Also, those looked to be wand style only. Where I'm looking to do the entire yard and not just spot treating, the boom seems to be my best option.
Designed for an ATV but I'll fashion it to the back of lawn tractor with no trouble...You got a link? Curious to know what you're talking about if its not a pull behind.
I have grown to find the idea of the perfect lawn silly. All the time and money spent spreading poison your family and pets play in seems perverse to me. Eventually it ends up in our water and we poison ourselves again. I know this isn’t a popular opinion and I’m not trying to change any minds but it’s where I’m at.Bossman said:Wow. That seems extreme. Can't say as I've ever hearing of anyone doing this. No luck with herbicides? Probably never have to mow that stuff.
Hows the clover hold up to the kids playing and backyard partes? ... and the bare-foot factor?
If the latest attempt i did two weeks ago doesn't hold up, which it won't, I'll be doing this in September.berndog said:I’ve gone the opposite way with my lawn. I’ve ditched the herbicides and overseeded with clover. Slowly it is taking over and pushing the weeds and grass out.
it is always green the white flowers keep the bees happy.
It was popular before the 1950s when herbicide companies started their mass poisoning and convinced people it was a weed and had to go. Before you couldn't buy seed without it.Bossman said:Wow. That seems extreme. Can't say as I've ever hearing of anyone doing this. No luck with herbicides? Probably never have to mow that stuff.
Hows the clover hold up to the kids playing and backyard partes? ... and the bare-foot factor?