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How to Buy a New Car- I might save you money (2 Viewers)

Mr. Pickles said:
You're insane.  $11k seems ambitious.

You're off by two orders of magnitude.  More like $15.
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I was wrong about the Taurus it was 1999.  Turns out we sold it for $3K.  Low miles helped, but still think we got more than it was worth.

Maybe you are right about the Equinox, it too has low miles and is in excellent condition - bought in April 2011 and has 46K miles on it - one owner and immaculate.  But just checked kbb and the best reasonable value was just a shade under 13K.

The good news is the $3K more than covered the ttl on the new CX-7, daughter gets a great vehicle, wife gets the new car.  Worked out all around.  Need to find out what the value she had to pay for her ttl on the Equinox - whether it was the $250 or an actual fmv.

 
Hey, I need some help.

Can one of you big ballers buy a landcruiser or a loaded durango,  drive it carefully for about 2-2.5 years, take exquisite care of it (don't forget the wax) and then then sell it to me for about 30-40% off the sticker?

TIA

 
tjnc09 said:
Married couples can give up to $26,000 of gifts ($13,000 per person) exempt from gift tax.
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To be clear - this is every single year, not a one-time gift thing. And as of tax class this spring, it's $14,000 per person (giver/recipient combo). So you to her is one, wife to her is one.

 
Dentist said:
Hey, I need some help.

Can one of you big ballers buy a landcruiser or a loaded durango,  drive it carefully for about 2-2.5 years, take exquisite care of it (don't forget the wax) and then then sell it to me for about 30-40% off the sticker?

TIA
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One of these is not like the other.

 
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Bucky86 said:
From what I've read the difference in price, in most cases, is negligible. All that ends up happening is you have a year older car for resale. 
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But with 10K-15K less mileage than others of the same model year.

In May 2016, I bought a new (60 miles) 2015 model year Jeep for $10K under sticker because the dealer wanted it off the lot.  Worth it in my book.  But buying a 2016 model before Jan/Feb seems less favorable.

 
Let's say that in 3 years I want to be at a $0 position -- either turning in a car off of lease or selling a car for what is owed (let's say current car value in $15-25k range if that matters). Am I better off leasing a new car or buying a used car with a longer note? Any advice or thoughts?

 
TakiToki said:
Let's say that in 3 years I want to be at a $0 position -- either turning in a car off of lease or selling a car for what is owed (let's say current car value in $15-25k range if that matters). Am I better off leasing a new car or buying a used car with a longer note? Any advice or thoughts?
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What is the reasoning?  If that's truly your goal, an used car with some miles on it is your safest bet.

 
Current vehicle: 1999 4Runner with 170k miles. Still runs well, but obviously getting long in the tooth. Interior and exterior in rough shape.  Put ~ 8k miles a year on it.

Nissan & BMW just announced a $10k rebate on new Leafs and i3's in my area.  A quick peek suggests I could be in the new Leaf for ~$36k before incentives, or the BMW for ~ $50k.

Incentive totals:
$10K from dealers, $7500 from federal govt, $2500 from state of CA, and $2500 from my employer.  So $22,500 in rebates total.

Am I insane for not jumping on a brand new Leaf for ~ $13,500?  Even if I only get 2500 out of my 4Runner, I'm looking at $11k to upgrade my vehicle 18 years.

Caveat:  I hate the ####### Leaf.  

 
Give me the best sites and strategies in the new car hunt.......been surfing cargurus and checked out Truecar. What's the best approach? Looking for new for the accelerated depreciation on a company car.

 
tommyGunZ said:
Current vehicle: 1999 4Runner with 170k miles. Still runs well, but obviously getting long in the tooth. Interior and exterior in rough shape.  Put ~ 8k miles a year on it.

Nissan & BMW just announced a $10k rebate on new Leafs and i3's in my area.  A quick peek suggests I could be in the new Leaf for ~$36k before incentives, or the BMW for ~ $50k.

Incentive totals:
$10K from dealers, $7500 from federal govt, $2500 from state of CA, and $2500 from my employer.  So $22,500 in rebates total.

Am I insane for not jumping on a brand new Leaf for ~ $13,500?  Even if I only get 2500 out of my 4Runner, I'm looking at $11k to upgrade my vehicle 18 years.

Caveat:  I hate the ####### Leaf.  
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Really don't see why you'd buy a case you hate. There are a lot of good options.

 
msudaisy26 said:
Read the whole thread and had a question. If you get employee discount is this service worth it?
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How are you getting the discount?  If you are getting green sheet through FCA or A/Z plan through Ford, the only thing you are going to negotiate is your trade in. I am not sure how this service would address a trade in. 

If this process gets a customer into the buying mode, I am all for it. 

For those who have purchased - What does the program discuss in terms of financing vs lease, service contracts, and maintenance plans?

 
Nugget said:
How are you getting the discount?  If you are getting green sheet through FCA or A/Z plan through Ford, the only thing you are going to negotiate is your trade in. I am not sure how this service would address a trade in. 

If this process gets a customer into the buying mode, I am all for it. 

For those who have purchased - What does the program discuss in terms of financing vs lease, service contracts, and maintenance plans?
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The GM employee discount

 
msudaisy26 said:
The GM employee discount
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I don't think a system would improve your deal. Plan price should be printed on invoice.  Manufacturers audit plan deals to make sure they did them correctly. If they overcharged those deals I have seen dealerships write checks to customer to make it right a year later. 

 
Nugget said:
I don't think a system would improve your deal. Plan price should be printed on invoice.  Manufacturers audit plan deals to make sure they did them correctly. If they overcharged those deals I have seen dealerships write checks to customer to make it right a year later. 
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I'll bet that fighting chance is a better deal than the employee discount.  You can always call and ask.  1-800-288-1134.  The guy is super honest and upfront.  When I was buying a brand new model Pilot, he told me that it was in such demand that he doubted his package could do anything at that point.....so I waited a few months until the initial demand slowed down.

 
Tiger Fan said:
I'll bet that fighting chance is a better deal than the employee discount.  You can always call and ask.  1-800-288-1134.  The guy is super honest and upfront.  When I was buying a brand new model Pilot, he told me that it was in such demand that he doubted his package could do anything at that point.....so I waited a few months until the initial demand slowed down.
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My husband called him today. He said the guy talked to him for like 20 minutes. He told my husband to contact  8 to 10 dealers and start the process when he was ready. He also said pick one dealer and tell them about the employee discount and let the rest compete for your business and see what gives you the best price. 

 
msudaisy26 said:
My husband called him today. He said the guy talked to him for like 20 minutes. He told my husband to contact  8 to 10 dealers and start the process when he was ready. He also said pick one dealer and tell them about the employee discount and let the rest compete for your business and see what gives you the best price. 
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:thumbup:   Good luck!

 
Dumb question:  I'm currently shopping for 2015 BMW i3's, and there is a 2015 fully loaded being sold at a BMW dealership with slightly high mileage for a 2 year old car - 27,781.  It's an excellent price and is the color and trim I'm looking for.  Should I be concerned that the BMW dealership is not selling it as a "Certified Pre-Owned" vehicle?  In essence, doesn't this mean they have performed a thorough system check and the results didn't justify the extended warranty that comes with the certification?

Would this prevent you from purchasing a car that other wise checks all your boxes, and is a very good value $ wise?

 
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tommyGunZ said:
Dumb question:  I'm currently shopping for 2015 BMW i3's, and there is a 2015 fully loaded being sold at a BMW dealership with slightly high mileage for a 2 year old car - 27,781.  It's an excellent price and is the color and trim I'm looking for.  Should I be conserned that the BMW dealership is not selling it as a "Certified Pre-Owned" vehicle?  In essence, doesn't this mean they have performed a thorough system check and the results didn't justify the extended warranty that comes with the certification?

Would this prevent you from purchasing a car that other wise checks all your boxes, and is a very good value $ wise?
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Some dealers don't CPO cars due to the additional cost they incur. Does this dealership have a lot of other CPO vehicles.  Can you purchase an extended service contract on the vehicle to give you CPO like protection?

 
Nugget said:
Some dealers don't CPO cars due to the additional cost they incur. Does this dealership have a lot of other CPO vehicles.  Can you purchase an extended service contract on the vehicle to give you CPO like protection?
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Great questions. It appears that this dealership does offer CPOs, which furthers my hesitancy.  Since it's a 2015 and I don't put more than 8-10 miles a year on my cars, I would still have another 2 years/~20k miles left on the original manufacturers warranty (4yr, 50k).  The Carfax report looks clean, although I know that's not extremely reliable. 

Here's the car

 
tommyGunZ said:
Great questions. It appears that this dealership does offer CPOs, which furthers my hesitancy.  Since it's a 2015 and I don't put more than 8-10 miles a year on my cars, I would still have another 2 years/~20k miles left on the original manufacturers warranty (4yr, 50k).  The Carfax report looks clean, although I know that's not extremely reliable. 

Here's the car
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Here is what I would ask the dealer based on what you've shared:

  • Is the car coming in off lease
  • Is the car local
  • Was it maintained at a BMW store - are there records
  • Why wasn't it CPO'd
  • Ask to see the inspection checklist that the service department completed
  • Ask when the warranty start date is
Dealers have individual CPO strategies.  Many stores I work with want to have 15-20% of their used cars as CPO.  Others push 50%.  Others won't due diesels due to higher costs (both as a certification fee and higher recon standards). Others won't do CPO at all.

Just ask a lot of questions.  They are expecting them - they are selling an electric BMW.

 
Nugget said:
Here is what I would ask the dealer based on what you've shared:

  • Is the car coming in off lease
  • Is the car local
  • Was it maintained at a BMW store - are there records
  • Why wasn't it CPO'd
  • Ask to see the inspection checklist that the service department completed
  • Ask when the warranty start date is
Dealers have individual CPO strategies.  Many stores I work with want to have 15-20% of their used cars as CPO.  Others push 50%.  Others won't due diesels due to higher costs (both as a certification fee and higher recon standards). Others won't do CPO at all.

Just ask a lot of questions.  They are expecting them - they are selling an electric BMW.
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 Bought the 2015 i3 today.  Thank you very much for your help over PM and email reviewing that report @Nugget.  Your assurance helped make this deal happen.  

 
I also used the fightingchance site and saved quite a bit:

I just completed negotiating with a few Toyota dealerships. Best offer I got was $33,500 OUT THE DOOR. Price included taxes fees tags etc

MSRP was $38,628 before taxes


Toyota Sienna 2017
8 Passenger XLE FWD ($33,406)
XLE Navigation Package ($637.00)
Destination Charge ($995)
Blizzard Pearl ($352)
All weather floormats / cargo liner ($248.00)
Lifetime powertrain warranty
Oil changes and tire rotations first 30k miles

on the buyers order shows the total taxes & fees was 1591.47
which brought the price to 36,000
then the 2,500 rebate
=$33,500

:thumbup:

 
Big League Chew said:
I also used the fightingchance site and saved quite a bit:

I just completed negotiating with a few Toyota dealerships. Best offer I got was $33,500 OUT THE DOOR. Price included taxes fees tags etc

MSRP was $38,628 before taxes


Toyota Sienna 2017
8 Passenger XLE FWD ($33,406)
XLE Navigation Package ($637.00)
Destination Charge ($995)
Blizzard Pearl ($352)
All weather floormats / cargo liner ($248.00)
Lifetime powertrain warranty
Oil changes and tire rotations first 30k miles

on the buyers order shows the total taxes & fees was 1591.47
which brought the price to 36,000
then the 2,500 rebate
=$33,500

:thumbup:
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Where do you live that your taxes are so low?  Under 1600 on a 34K vehicle is sub 5% and even less depending on the amount of the fees. 

 
Bought an Audi Q5 about a month ago. 2017 CPO, 7300 miles 2.0T Quattro Premium Plus w/Technology/Navigation/Sound packages $41k.  According to the various  websites I checked it seemed to be considered an "excellent" price. Car fax was clean.  For this dealer, they said the CPO's were courtesy cars and Audi tells them the price to sell it at and when to sell them. Price just dropped.  Absolutely no negotiation. When we tried to negotiate they said they would negotiate if we wanted a new 2018. We walked out and went driving a few other cars and then returned.   Audi CPO has a good warranty program, included adding two years and 50k to the new car warranty of 4/50k for up to 6 years/100k (from in-service date). $85 deductible is probably higher than most other warranty programs. 24 hour road side service included also.  No trade-in as my '09 Camry was hit and totaled by insurance although you would never know it :rant: . Went into the dealer looking at the A4 and A6 but the Q5 was very quiet, more room and smooth ride and settled on it.  

 
Phil Elliott said:
Bought an Audi Q5 about a month ago. 2017 CPO, 7300 miles 2.0T Quattro Premium Plus w/Technology/Navigation/Sound packages $41k.  According to the various  websites I checked it seemed to be considered an "excellent" price. Car fax was clean.  For this dealer, they said the CPO's were courtesy cars and Audi tells them the price to sell it at and when to sell them. Price just dropped.  Absolutely no negotiation. When we tried to negotiate they said they would negotiate if we wanted a new 2018. We walked out and went driving a few other cars and then returned.   Audi CPO has a good warranty program, included adding two years and 50k to the new car warranty of 4/50k for up to 6 years/100k (from in-service date). $85 deductible is probably higher than most other warranty programs. 24 hour road side service included also.  No trade-in as my '09 Camry was hit and totaled by insurance although you would never know it :rant: . Went into the dealer looking at the A4 and A6 but the Q5 was very quiet, more room and smooth ride and settled on it.  
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Standard deductible is $100 for most companies - I am seeing more aftermarket companies and dealers move to $200. 

 
Bought a new 2017 Mustang last October. Didn't use the $40 package mentioned in this thread, just did essentially the same thing on my own with great success. The 2017 model had a new color, so even though it's a very common car, the color choice narrowed my options.

I started by test-driving the car at the "local" dealership. Loved the drive and left feeling assured that I wanted the car. Got all the details from the salesman, thanked him for his time, and went home.

Next, I sent an email to 8 different lots, including the local dealership. A couple were about 30min away, a couple more were about 1hr away, and a few more were approx. 2 hours away. Note: You will receive a TON of spam from every lot you email. I'm talking multiple emails every day, so use whatever address you don't mind getting flooded with junk mail for the rest of time. My email said that I'm interested in this specific car, this trim, this year, this color. I had already found the exact car listed on the websites for all of these dealers, so I knew they had one. I told them that I was contacting a number of dealerships, wanted to buy the car in the next couple of weeks, and would go with which ever dealership offered me the best price, requesting their lowest offer.

To keep the story short - the lot that had the lowest (by far) initial price was out of town. Based on reviews and looking at their other listings, they were clearly making their $ on volume, by undercutting their competitors online and bringing you in the door with a fantastic starting price, then hoping to make up for it with up-charging/financing. I played the dealers off one another and got them to come down another $1,500. None of the others would even match that price, but I told them (i.e. lied) I was going with a local dealership that matched it and this prompted them to knock a final $500 off at the last minute. This put them at $1,000-$3,000 lower than the best price of all of the other lots. After one more round of "I'll be buying from your competitor tonight if you don't beat this price", I made the trip.

At this point, I hadn't even mentioned a trade-in, since I didn't want that aspect to muddy the negotiations. Given that I was driving the trade-in out of town, I knew they would try to screw me on the price, since I couldn't drive 2 cars home. I came prepared by bringing my girlfriend with me to drive the old car back home. I wasn't in a rush to sell the old car anyway, and I let them know that. Sure enough, they offered me $2,000 for my trade-in and would not budge over $2,500, which I promptly dismissed and told them I'd just sell it myself in a few months. Signed all the paperwork, with no extras or up-charges, and we drove both cars back home.

I continued to drive my old car around now and then. That was the plan all along, as it was in good working condition and I could keep the miles off the new car while also driving it to places like Costco where the metal carts have a way of finding my doors. It had also been recently inspected, so I didn't have to worry about that. I eventually brought it into CarMax, where they offered me about half of what it was worth ($2,500 or $3,000, can't remember). Ended up selling it right away with no problem on Craigslist a couple months later for $5,500 cash.

Allowing the lots to compete with one another is definitely the way to go! The guy I ended up buying the car from seemed like a total weasel, so I'm glad I didn't have to interact with him for the negotiations, other than a bunch of "no thanks" responses to all of his up-sell questions when I signed the papers.

 
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Bump. I've used this method in the past and am going to again. My girlfriend's car is getting to the end of it's life and I am going to help her with her purchase. The car is drivable for now but I am having to fill it with transmission fluid pretty consistently due to a leak. Should I wait until December or should I use this method this month? Will there be a big difference in savings between now and December for 2017 or 2018 models?

 
AcerFC said:
I never entered a store, I didnt go back and forth on price except with the guy I bought from because I thought he deserved a few chances for his hard work. It took maybe an hour of my time (max 90 minutes and I dont think it was that much) and I did it all from my computer outside of using the phone to make calls. 4/6 dealers never spoke with me again after getting their email.
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Did you even say goodbye to any of them?

 
OK, Need to purchase before the end of the year.  Should be a good time I think.  Read through this thread, thinking about ordering this package, but we haven't determined which vehicle for sure we are looking at.  We have a 2015 Acadia that we leased that is ending 12/31.  The newer Acadia's are smaller, so we are looking at Traverse's.

Tons of info in this thread and from what I've read tons of info to go through if you buy the package.  Any tips?  I hate buying cars.

 
rick6668 said:
OK, Need to purchase before the end of the year.  Should be a good time I think.  Read through this thread, thinking about ordering this package, but we haven't determined which vehicle for sure we are looking at.  We have a 2015 Acadia that we leased that is ending 12/31.  The newer Acadia's are smaller, so we are looking at Traverse's.

Tons of info in this thread and from what I've read tons of info to go through if you buy the package.  Any tips?  I hate buying cars.
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Go test drive whatever cars you're interested in this week. Once you have model and trim line established, then start negotiating next week with different dealers.

 
Looking at a 2017/18 F-150.  Sent email out to 12 dealerships about half hour ago.  4 calls and 6 emails so far.  Pretty entertaining.

We'll see how it goes.

Thanks for the thread!

 
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doowain said:
Looking at a 2017/18 F-150.  Sent email out to 12 dealerships about half hour ago.  4 calls and 6 emails so far.  Pretty entertaining.

We'll see how it goes.

Thanks for the thread!
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I’ve been able to negotiate the entire deal through email and phone the last 2 cars I’ve bought. I even told the guy I was super busy and couldn’t spend much time picking up the car so he has all the paperwork ready for me just to sign when I got there. I was literally in and out with my new car on 20 minutes.

 
Another thing I’ve done is say it’s a work vehicle and I just can’t go over x budget. It’s an great negotiating tool because it’s easy to draw that hard line. 

I’m sorry, my board just won’t let me spend a penny over x.

 
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