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Computer Builds/Rebuilds Thread (1 Viewer)

captain_amazing

Footballguy
I've heard this topic come up around here a few times and numerous times in my day-to-day life, so I figured I'd start a topic around it. I'm not a silver-bullet expert on builds, but do have some experience.

My latest project was a rebuild of my nearly 10-year old laptop. I bought it when I was a junior in college - I wasn't as experienced with builds and whatnot then, so I didn't really make the best choice in what I purchased. Within the past 2 years, I've barely used it, as the battery was toast, it overheats significantly, and the processor and HDD simply couldn't meet my expectations (which were at a much higher level, with my 2-year old desktop build). So, I've been toying around with the basic thought that many have: do I purchase a new laptop or do I upgrade the components?

With a laptop, these kinds of questions can be more difficult, as some of the core components (e.g. graphics card, mobo, etc.) cannot be upgraded (either at all or not easily). Likewise, other components are not the easiest to upgrade, unless you have experience disassembling and reassembling laptops.

My laptop is a HP Pavillion DV3t-2000 - it was running a 2.1 Duo Intel Centrino, 4G memory, 250 HDD, and a nvidia geforce 150m. I priced out a couple of refurbs that ha newer processors and SSDs, and compared that to upgrading the processor, storage drive, and battery. After some thought, I ended up going with the upgrade ($160 versus $400) and have been pleasantly surprise - a new 2.8 Duo Intel Centrino, a 250 SSD, and a new battery. It still has pretty bad overheating issues, which are related to the crapshoot GPU, but it's usability and performance have been through the roof. I think I've extended it's life by about 3-5 years or so, and will actually use it now.

If you have had thoughts about doing a rebuild or a new build, or have already done so, post it hear. If you need advice or can give advice (I'll attempt to), ask or post away.

 
My homebuilt PC is over 6 years old. Only parts that haven't been replaced since it was first built is the CPU/Motherboard/Ram (I've added more Ram though). Still have most of the HDs, really need to consolidate to 1 really large one and a big SSD (have 2 SSDs and 4 spinning disks that I've acquired over the years, started with 3 in a RAID in the original build). I think I've been through 2 video cards since the original build, new Power Supply with one of the video card updates.

I could have bought appx. 2 computers for the cost of the original build (~$1000) and add-ons over time. But they would not be as good for gaming and would likely not be as reliable.

Thinking about a mobo/CPU upgrade soon, that seems to be the bottleneck lately. Unfortunately, that probably also means RAM and maybe a new video card (cause that would be the new bottleneck if I didn't upgrade it). So basically a near full rebuild. Been starting to price out components, but definitely going to be doing it myself once again.

 
I'm really cheap and I still wouldn't do this. Computers are really cheap
I'm cheap and poor, and I approve of this message.

If I had a graveyard of parts to cannibalize then yes, but I would never put money into upgrading a laptop that old.

You just get sooooo much better performance with even the cheapest of new hardware when you are looking at components that old.

 
After some thought, I ended up going with the upgrade ($160 versus $400) and have been pleasantly surprise - a new 2.8 Duo Intel Centrino, a 250 SSD, and a new battery. It still has pretty bad overheating issues, which are related to the crapshoot GPU, but it's usability and performance have been through the roof. I think I've extended it's life by about 3-5 years or so, and will actually use it now.
How did you upgrade the CPU on a laptop (they're usually soldered-on). Did you find a whole new mobo somewhere?

Going to SSD is the single biggest upgrade the average user can make these days. I won't build/buy a PC now without one.

The current build I'm working on is a rebuild of my home server. Waiting for Skylake, but it's going to be a uITX-based system shaped around the NCASE M1. My current server is on Ivy Bridge and while I don't need an upgrade, I would like to get H.265 hardware compatibility and faster HandBrake encode times when compressing BluRays ripped to my server.

 
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Replaced my 386 with a 486 processor and now SimCity runs as smooth as butter. Check out the difference...

www.youtube.com/watch?v=3fcPxAO1FeU

 
After some thought, I ended up going with the upgrade ($160 versus $400) and have been pleasantly surprise - a new 2.8 Duo Intel Centrino, a 250 SSD, and a new battery. It still has pretty bad overheating issues, which are related to the crapshoot GPU, but it's usability and performance have been through the roof. I think I've extended it's life by about 3-5 years or so, and will actually use it now.
How did you upgrade the CPU on a laptop (they're usually soldered-on). Did you find a whole new mobo somewhere?
A lot of (somewhat older) laptop CPUs are on a standalone circuit board that can be replaced.

 
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Just ordered a 500GB SSD for my ~6 year old Dell desktop based on reviews in the Products You Believe In thread. Anxious to see the difference it makes.

 
Just ordered a 500GB SSD for my ~6 year old Dell desktop based on reviews in the Products You Believe In thread. Anxious to see the difference it makes.
Nice.For what OS? It'll boost performance for any, of course, but you'll see a world of a difference on win 8.1 vs win 7, particularly with boot times (but with applications as well).

Also do you know if your board supports SATA3? I'm guessing probably not, meaning you'll be relegated to 3gbps a not the biggest deal in the world, as you may not even notice the difference between the two, depending on what type of computing you do.

 
Just ordered a 500GB SSD for my ~6 year old Dell desktop based on reviews in the Products You Believe In thread. Anxious to see the difference it makes.
Nice.For what OS? It'll boost performance for any, of course, but you'll see a world of a difference on win 8.1 vs win 7, particularly with boot times (but with applications as well).

Also do you know if your board supports SATA3? I'm guessing probably not, meaning you'll be relegated to 3gbps a not the biggest deal in the world, as you may not even notice the difference between the two, depending on what type of computing you do.
Windows XP :bag:

And I'm not sure about SATA3, though I would guess not as well. I figure if it will last me another year or two, I can transfer the SSD drive over when I get my next machine.

 
Nathan R. Jessep said:
captain_amazing said:
Just ordered a 500GB SSD for my ~6 year old Dell desktop based on reviews in the Products You Believe In thread. Anxious to see the difference it makes.
Nice.For what OS? It'll boost performance for any, of course, but you'll see a world of a difference on win 8.1 vs win 7, particularly with boot times (but with applications as well).

Also do you know if your board supports SATA3? I'm guessing probably not, meaning you'll be relegated to 3gbps a not the biggest deal in the world, as you may not even notice the difference between the two, depending on what type of computing you do.
Windows XP :bag:

And I'm not sure about SATA3, though I would guess not as well. I figure if it will last me another year or two, I can transfer the SSD drive over when I get my next machine.
Seriously, toss Windows 8.1 into the cart as well and install it. It'll be WELL worth the upgrade, speed-wise, and you can mostly turn off the start screen if you don't like it. And then you'll get a free upgrade to Windows 10 in less than a month, which will keep the performance updates and fix the start menu issues.

 
Nathan R. Jessep said:
captain_amazing said:
Just ordered a 500GB SSD for my ~6 year old Dell desktop based on reviews in the Products You Believe In thread. Anxious to see the difference it makes.
Nice.For what OS? It'll boost performance for any, of course, but you'll see a world of a difference on win 8.1 vs win 7, particularly with boot times (but with applications as well).

Also do you know if your board supports SATA3? I'm guessing probably not, meaning you'll be relegated to 3gbps a not the biggest deal in the world, as you may not even notice the difference between the two, depending on what type of computing you do.
Windows XP :bag:

And I'm not sure about SATA3, though I would guess not as well. I figure if it will last me another year or two, I can transfer the SSD drive over when I get my next machine.
Seriously, toss Windows 8.1 into the cart as well and install it. It'll be WELL worth the upgrade, speed-wise, and you can mostly turn off the start screen if you don't like it. And then you'll get a free upgrade to Windows 10 in less than a month, which will keep the performance updates and fix the start menu issues.
Hmmm. Won't have any performance issues since it's an older PC? I think I have 2GB RAM, IIRC

 
Nathan R. Jessep said:
captain_amazing said:
Just ordered a 500GB SSD for my ~6 year old Dell desktop based on reviews in the Products You Believe In thread. Anxious to see the difference it makes.
Nice.For what OS? It'll boost performance for any, of course, but you'll see a world of a difference on win 8.1 vs win 7, particularly with boot times (but with applications as well).

Also do you know if your board supports SATA3? I'm guessing probably not, meaning you'll be relegated to 3gbps a not the biggest deal in the world, as you may not even notice the difference between the two, depending on what type of computing you do.
Windows XP :bag:

And I'm not sure about SATA3, though I would guess not as well. I figure if it will last me another year or two, I can transfer the SSD drive over when I get my next machine.
Seriously, toss Windows 8.1 into the cart as well and install it. It'll be WELL worth the upgrade, speed-wise, and you can mostly turn off the start screen if you don't like it. And then you'll get a free upgrade to Windows 10 in less than a month, which will keep the performance updates and fix the start menu issues.
Hmmm. Won't have any performance issues since it's an older PC? I think I have 2GB RAM, IIRC
It'll work OK off of 2GB of RAM. If you can bump that to 4, you'll cruising. However, if you do plan to do an upgrade soon, and either (1) have no need for two, functional computers or (2) your current PC doesn't support DDR3, then don't worry about upgrading the RAM. But, you can certainly go with the 8.1 install - it will work just fine and will take advantage of the SSD in ways that XP cannot.

 
Nathan R. Jessep said:
captain_amazing said:
Just ordered a 500GB SSD for my ~6 year old Dell desktop based on reviews in the Products You Believe In thread. Anxious to see the difference it makes.
Nice.For what OS? It'll boost performance for any, of course, but you'll see a world of a difference on win 8.1 vs win 7, particularly with boot times (but with applications as well).

Also do you know if your board supports SATA3? I'm guessing probably not, meaning you'll be relegated to 3gbps a not the biggest deal in the world, as you may not even notice the difference between the two, depending on what type of computing you do.
Windows XP :bag:

And I'm not sure about SATA3, though I would guess not as well. I figure if it will last me another year or two, I can transfer the SSD drive over when I get my next machine.
Seriously, toss Windows 8.1 into the cart as well and install it. It'll be WELL worth the upgrade, speed-wise, and you can mostly turn off the start screen if you don't like it. And then you'll get a free upgrade to Windows 10 in less than a month, which will keep the performance updates and fix the start menu issues.
Hmmm. Won't have any performance issues since it's an older PC? I think I have 2GB RAM, IIRC
It'll work OK off of 2GB of RAM. If you can bump that to 4, you'll cruising. However, if you do plan to do an upgrade soon, and either (1) have no need for two, functional computers or (2) your current PC doesn't support DDR3, then don't worry about upgrading the RAM. But, you can certainly go with the 8.1 install - it will work just fine and will take advantage of the SSD in ways that XP cannot.
Cool. Good to know. I think 2GB is the max for the mobo I have. Thanks for the info.

 
For those into gaming desktop PC builds, the Cooler Master Seidon 240m is amazing. I have a FX-9590 that pulls 220W (and runs hot anyhow) and on my last machine idled around 30-35 C. In my new build, the rig idles at 15 or so C in 85 degree F weather with no AC. In game, I can't get it over 40C. Really, really good liquid cool.

For AMD builds, never ever go with a stock cooler. Get the black edition processor and spend the money on a quality cooler.

This was my first liquid cooler and I highly recommend it. I upgrade my desktop typically every 12-18 months or so. If you have build questions, lay them on me.

 
Any recommendations for a good value on a desktop monitor? The one that came with my dinosaur isn't terrible, but I would like a larger display.

 
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They had the 22 in a deal early this am, but it was sold out by the time I got to it. Did they run another batch, or was this the 24? I was out to lunch.

 
They had the 22 in a deal early this am, but it was sold out by the time I got to it. Did they run another batch, or was this the 24? I was out to lunch.
They ran another batch. I've been scanning their Upcoming section to find the next monitor deal(s).

 
They had the 22 in a deal early this am, but it was sold out by the time I got to it. Did they run another batch, or was this the 24? I was out to lunch.
They ran another batch. I've been scanning their Upcoming section to find the next monitor deal(s).
ahh.. I see the ViewSonic 24s are coming up in 15m. I'll see what the "deal" is. Thanks for the heads up.

 
For those into gaming desktop PC builds, the Cooler Master Seidon 240m is amazing. I have a FX-9590 that pulls 220W (and runs hot anyhow) and on my last machine idled around 30-35 C. In my new build, the rig idles at 15 or so C in 85 degree F weather with no AC. In game, I can't get it over 40C. Really, really good liquid cool.

For AMD builds, never ever go with a stock cooler. Get the black edition processor and spend the money on a quality cooler.

This was my first liquid cooler and I highly recommend it. I upgrade my desktop typically every 12-18 months or so. If you have build questions, lay them on me.
Pretty amazing feat of physics, getting your CPU temperature lower than ambient!

(I think your sensor is off).

 
Threw a 480 GB SSD that I got during Prime Day (from Adorama actually) and my old GTX 560 into my daughter's PC....tremendous difference.

ETA: CPU is a i7-2600, still not bad for a 4+ year old computer.

 
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Can you guys help me? What do you think of this: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=9165156&CatId=31

AMD FX-8350 4GHz Eight-Core CPU

Gigabyte GA-970A-DS3P ATX MB

8GB DDR3 1866 Kingston HyperX Fury Red Memory

1TB Seagate 7200rpm SATA HDD

It sucks that it doesn't come with a SSD. But I guess I could just find all the individual components and buy them seperately on Amazon or something so I'm not locked-in to them deciding on my HD for me. What else would I need? I'm thinking a DVDR, WiFi, and video card? I haven't built a system in over ten years.

 
For those into gaming desktop PC builds, the Cooler Master Seidon 240m is amazing. I have a FX-9590 that pulls 220W (and runs hot anyhow) and on my last machine idled around 30-35 C. In my new build, the rig idles at 15 or so C in 85 degree F weather with no AC. In game, I can't get it over 40C. Really, really good liquid cool.

For AMD builds, never ever go with a stock cooler. Get the black edition processor and spend the money on a quality cooler.

This was my first liquid cooler and I highly recommend it. I upgrade my desktop typically every 12-18 months or so. If you have build questions, lay them on me.
Pretty amazing feat of physics, getting your CPU temperature lower than ambient!

(I think your sensor is off).
:shrug:

Those are the numbers I get off CoreTemp... Should I be using something else?

 
Can you guys help me? What do you think of this: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=9165156&CatId=31

AMD FX-8350 4GHz Eight-Core CPU

Gigabyte GA-970A-DS3P ATX MB

8GB DDR3 1866 Kingston HyperX Fury Red Memory

1TB Seagate 7200rpm SATA HDD

It sucks that it doesn't come with a SSD. But I guess I could just find all the individual components and buy them seperately on Amazon or something so I'm not locked-in to them deciding on my HD for me. What else would I need? I'm thinking a DVDR, WiFi, and video card? I haven't built a system in over ten years.
Gaming PC? What kinds of games?

 
Can you guys help me? What do you think of this: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=9165156&CatId=31

AMD FX-8350 4GHz Eight-Core CPU

Gigabyte GA-970A-DS3P ATX MB

8GB DDR3 1866 Kingston HyperX Fury Red Memory

1TB Seagate 7200rpm SATA HDD

It sucks that it doesn't come with a SSD. But I guess I could just find all the individual components and buy them seperately on Amazon or something so I'm not locked-in to them deciding on my HD for me. What else would I need? I'm thinking a DVDR, WiFi, and video card? I haven't built a system in over ten years.
I just priced out that package on Newegg and it came to $500 so don't think you are getting a good deal buying the package. I think its just a fact now days that you'll want a SSD with that processor and memory, at least for the OS and programs. Also, the motherboard does not have on board video, so, yes you will need a video card. The MB only got fair reviews on Newegg too.

 
Thanks dude. This is what I ended up doing:

AMD FX-8370
ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0 MB
Corsair Hydro Series H55 Quiet Edition Liquid CPU Cooler (CW-9060010-WW)
EVGA GeForce GTX 750 02G-P4-3757-KR
Kingston HyperX Savage 8GB Kit (2x4GB) 2133MHz DDR3 Non-ECC CL11 DIMM XMP (HX321C11SRK2/8)
Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-75E500B/AM)
Raidmax 635W Power Supply 135mm LED Fan ATX 12V v2.3/EPS 12V RX-635AP
Asus 24x DVD-RW Serial-ATA Internal OEM Optical Drive DRW-24B1ST
Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-01 Mid Tower Gaming Case CC-9011050-WW
Four-pack of 120mm fans
Dell E2414Hr 24-Inch LED-Lit Monitor
Logitech Wireless Combo MK270 Keyboard and Mouse

Dual Band Wireless N900 PCI Adapter TL-WDN4800
Windows 7
I hope I got everything I need. :oldunsure:

 
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Pretty amazing feat of physics, getting your CPU temperature lower than ambient!

(I think your sensor is off).
:shrug:

Those are the numbers I get off CoreTemp... Should I be using something else?
Not much you can do, AFAIK. If you have a case temp sensor, and it can be assumed that it has the same error, you can compare actual room temperature to it and use that as an adjustment for what your CPU temp actually is. But that's a reach.

Another alternative is to try RealTemp. But that would only fix things if it was the software that was wrong and not the sensor.

 
otello said:
SSD prices are great now. Looking at upgrading to a 500 gig for my c drive.
Exactly what I just did. If you are upgrading from a non-SSD, you won't believe the difference it makes. :thumbup:
I already have an ssd for my c, but it is too small. I need some tips on cleaning it up.
The Samsung I got came with the cloning software, and you can choose which partitions to clone to the new drive. Perhaps you could place all your "good" files on one partition and just clone that one over to the new drive. Just a thought.

 
Pretty amazing feat of physics, getting your CPU temperature lower than ambient!

(I think your sensor is off).
:shrug:

Those are the numbers I get off CoreTemp... Should I be using something else?
Not much you can do, AFAIK. If you have a case temp sensor, and it can be assumed that it has the same error, you can compare actual room temperature to it and use that as an adjustment for what your CPU temp actually is. But that's a reach.

Another alternative is to try RealTemp. But that would only fix things if it was the software that was wrong and not the sensor.
I'll try this tonight. I'm curious if there is an issue that needs to be worried about (I doubt it, but still).

 
Pretty amazing feat of physics, getting your CPU temperature lower than ambient!

(I think your sensor is off).
:shrug:

Those are the numbers I get off CoreTemp... Should I be using something else?
Not much you can do, AFAIK. If you have a case temp sensor, and it can be assumed that it has the same error, you can compare actual room temperature to it and use that as an adjustment for what your CPU temp actually is. But that's a reach.

Another alternative is to try RealTemp. But that would only fix things if it was the software that was wrong and not the sensor.
I'll try this tonight. I'm curious if there is an issue that needs to be worried about (I doubt it, but still).
Nothing to worry about. Just wanted to temper your enthusiasm for the cooler. I'm sure it's still great. Just not that great.

 
I'm really cheap and I still wouldn't do this. Computers are really cheap
I'm really cheap too and I'm about to drop $500 to build a new media server even though my current server works fine. Because I love computers.
Same here. Going to get a Skylake i7 and rebuild my server into an NCase M1 V4. Not because I have to, or even need to, but because I just want to. The current server works fine except for the fact that it's in a full ATX case (the NCase is ITX and will reduce its footprint in my office) and also because the i7 will transcode my BDRips and Plex faster.

All that for ~$800+.

I should probably stop criticizing my wife for expensive purses.

 
I'm really cheap and I still wouldn't do this. Computers are really cheap
I'm really cheap too and I'm about to drop $500 to build a new media server even though my current server works fine. Because I love computers.
Same here. Going to get a Skylake i7 and rebuild my server into an NCase M1 V4. Not because I have to, or even need to, but because I just want to. The current server works fine except for the fact that it's in a full ATX case (the NCase is ITX and will reduce its footprint in my office) and also because the i7 will transcode my BDRips and Plex faster.

All that for ~$800+.

I should probably stop criticizing my wife for expensive purses.
I'd be interested in a full breakdown of this server build including software configuration. I really need a server.

 
I'm really cheap and I still wouldn't do this. Computers are really cheap
I'm really cheap too and I'm about to drop $500 to build a new media server even though my current server works fine. Because I love computers.
Same here. Going to get a Skylake i7 and rebuild my server into an NCase M1 V4. Not because I have to, or even need to, but because I just want to. The current server works fine except for the fact that it's in a full ATX case (the NCase is ITX and will reduce its footprint in my office) and also because the i7 will transcode my BDRips and Plex faster.

All that for ~$800+.

I should probably stop criticizing my wife for expensive purses.
Cool case - I might look into that. I'm trying to get the smallest case I can which can hold my 2 3.5" drives and an SSD for the OS. No video card. Been trying to decide between a Thermaltake V1 and a Raidmax Element.

I've already ripped all my discs, so I'm going with an i5 and 8GB RAM and will be running Ubuntu.

BTW.. Donate all your discs to charity after you rip them. You can get a nice tax deduction, and that won't be around forever as discs become more obsolete. I donated about 800 discs.

 
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Cool case - I might look into that. I'm trying to get the smallest case I can which can hold my 2 3.5" drives and an SSD for the OS. No video card. Been trying to decide between a Thermaltake V1 and a Raidmax Element.
It can actually hold 4x3.5" HDDs, an SSD, and an optical drive, if you get the additional hard drive cage. It was designed by enthusiasts who weren't satisfied with the existing ITX options in the market today. The whole story and some great info in the HardOCP thread which details its conception and execution.


I'd be interested in a full breakdown of this server build including software configuration. I really need a server.
My build is as follows:

$220 NCASE M1 V4

$ 25 Extra HDD cage for NCASE M1 V4 (increases capacity to 4x3.5" HDDs from 2)

~$320 Intel Skylake Core i7-6700K (not yet released, ETA early/mid-Aug)

~$130 ASRock Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac (not yet released, ETA with Skylake)

$ 50 Silverstone 300W SFX PSU (don't need any more than 300W without a video card)

$125 16GB (2x8GB) Crucial DDR4 RAM (hoping VLP DDR4 modules are released soon, like these DDR3 sticks -- space is tight in ITX cases)

$ 55 Noctua NH-D9L HSF (lower-height to fit in this case)

$100 Archgon CB-5021-GB Slot-loading Internal Blu-ray Burner (kit comes with required slim SATA adapter)

$ 0 Cannibalize 2x4TB & 2x3TB HDDs from existing server (substitute your own capacity here)

$ 0 Cannibalize 500GB Samsung 850 EVO from existing server

$ 0 Cannibalize Win 8.1 from existing server, then upgrade to Win 10 for free

$ 0 Cannibalize keyboard/mouse/monitor from existing PC

------

~$1025

Definitely not cheap, especially for a server which doesn't have to be high-power.

If one is interested in building a server that isn't quite as gold-plated as this one, top areas to save money are:

  • Cheaper CPU: I have a Sandy Bridge i3 2100 in my existing server and it works fine. But I would like to encode my BDs faster, and have the (never yet needed) capability for Plex to transcode multiple streams simultaneously. Any i3 CPU these days is plenty for a server, if not a Celeron or Pentium model.
  • Build a micro-ATX server instead of mini-ITX: ITX parts are expensive. From the case, to the mobo, to the PSU. All of it. But ITX gets you a smaller footprint if it's worth it to you. Micro-ATX parts will be just as functional at a much lower price. But take-up more real estate on your desk.
  • Get an "H" series motherboard instead of "Z" series: The latter has more features and PCI bandwidth, but you really don't need that. "H" motherboards are much cheaper and do the trick just fine.
  • Use the stock Intel HSF: Higher temps (not a big deal) and more noise, at a lower price. If your server is in a high-traffic area, don't undervalue the benefit of a quiet PC.
  • Use a traditional HDD for the OS instead of an SSD: Not worth the savings, in my mind. But it will save you $ if you're pinching pennies. SSDs make slow PCs feel fast. HDDs make fast PCs feel slow.
  • 4GB or 8GB of RAM instead of 16GB. 16GB is overkill. I'm only going that route for "future-proofing" but even then it's probably overkill. 8GB is safe and cheaper.
  • Linux instead of Windows: Not a big fan of Linux myself and fans will tell you that it's just as capable as Windows. But I like having a fully-capable PC and not just a server. That way I can surf on it, run torrents on it, watch TV on it (using my SiliconDust HDHR and OTA antenna), etc, without having to futz with Linux. Also, my server is my "junk drawer" PC. I put all the software I don't want on my gaming PC (Harmony, Garmin, mFi, etc) on this one since I don't game on it.
  • Shop at Micro Center if you have one nearby: Their CPU/mobo combos can save you up to $100 or more vs Newegg or Amazon
  • Use bigger/fewer HDDs instead of smaller/more: There are 8TB drives out there now, which are pricey, but 6TB drives aren't and will allow you to expand your media in the future without needing additional HDDs.
I use my server as the central media repository for my home. I have Kodi/OpenELEC boxes throughout the house which source media from this server. I also use this server to stream/transcode media over the internet using Plex. It is also connected to my home network (obviously) which has a networked printer. So I can log-in to the server using TeamViewer, and remotely print stuff if I need to. I can also use TeamViewer to manage my torrents, set up encodes, or just look up stuff like photos and/or documents that I need to reference. I keep all my receipts on my server so that I can retrieve them remotely if necessary. It's basically my own personal cloud server.

To manage my media, I use Media Companion, which adds box art, fanart, and actor/plot information to your media (rather than have Kodi do it -- Media Companion gives you more control).

To rip BDs and DVDs, I use Slysoft's AnyDVD HD. Pricey, but it works.

For transcoding BDs to smaller sizes, I use Handbrake.

If you're willing to wait for transcoding, and will not likely need Plex to stream multiple shows at the same time, you can probably build a Micro-ATX server for $500 or less plus the cost of hard drives (which vary depending on your storage needs).

Once you have things set up, I recommend a mySQL database for your Kodi media centers, if you have multiple Kodi boxes. This allows the server to host the central media library which tracks things like watched flags, and allows you to pause/resume between devices. Not a huge deal but a nice feature if you're comfortable setting it up. Works great for me.

Hope that helps a bit. If you let me know your needs I can help design/price a server for you.

 
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Zas, I like the build you detailed above. One question I have that you might know - about these new intel chips and motherboards coming out vs. what's already available. In my "mancave" I'd like to have a triple TV/monitor set up all connected to an HTPC. Each independent to watch different sporting events (either streamed or via my networked TV tuner). Would anything already available do this, or would any of the soon to be released stuff?

 
As I mentioned in the gaming PC thread, I'm rebuilding my main PC to add mega storage capabilities. Since I'm waiting on widespread Skylake availability (and will probably assemble the pieces slowly, as I can get them on sale), I thought I'd catalog my build for my own reference and suggestions.

$98 - Case: Thermaltake Core V71 (purchased)

$250 - Processor: Intel Slylake Core i5-6600k

$180 - Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Extreme 6

$90-130 - RAM: 16gb DDR4 - haven't researched yet

$150 - PSU: Seasonic SS-660XP2 (10 SATA connectors)

Total ~ $900 (oof, more than I was planning when planning to build a NAS)

Cannibalize Radeon 6850

Cannibalize 1x240GB Crucial mSATA SSD (may need to add PCI-> mSata card) $29

Cannibalize 1x2TB program drive

Cannibalize DVD burner and BluRay reader - may replace with BluRay/DVD/CD burner $50 to trim # of drives

Cannibalize 2x2TB & 2x3TB data drives from HTPC USB3.0 enclosure

 
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As I mentioned in the gaming PC thread, I'm rebuilding my main PC to add mega storage capabilities. Since I'm waiting on widespread Skylake availability (and will probably assemble the pieces slowly, as I can get them on sale), I thought I'd catalog my build for my own reference and suggestions.

$98 - Case: Thermaltake Core V71 (purchased)

$250 - Processor: Intel Slylake Core i5-6600k

$195-240 - Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Extreme6+ or Extreme 7+

$90-130 - RAM: 16gb DDR4 - haven't researched yet

$150 - PSU: Seasonic SS-660XP2 (10 SATA connectors)

Total ~ $800-900 (oof, more than I was planning when planning to build a NAS)

Cannibalize Radeon 6850

Cannibalize 1x240GB Crucial mSATA SSD (may need to add PCI-> mSata card)

Cannibalize 1x2TB program drive

Cannibalize DVD burner and BluRay reader

Cannibalize 2x2TB & 2x3TB data drives from HTPC USB3.0 enclosure
Looks good but time to upgrade the GPU.

 
As I mentioned in the gaming PC thread, I'm rebuilding my main PC to add mega storage capabilities. Since I'm waiting on widespread Skylake availability (and will probably assemble the pieces slowly, as I can get them on sale), I thought I'd catalog my build for my own reference and suggestions.

$98 - Case: Thermaltake Core V71 (purchased)

$250 - Processor: Intel Slylake Core i5-6600k

$180 - Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Extreme 6

$90-130 - RAM: 16gb DDR4 - haven't researched yet

$150 - PSU: Seasonic SS-660XP2 (10 SATA connectors)

Total ~ $900 (oof, more than I was planning when planning to build a NAS)

Cannibalize Radeon 6850

Cannibalize 1x240GB Crucial mSATA SSD (may need to add PCI-> mSata card) $29

Cannibalize 1x2TB program drive

Cannibalize DVD burner and BluRay reader - may replace with BluRay/DVD/CD burner $50 to trim # of drives

Cannibalize 2x2TB & 2x3TB data drives from HTPC USB3.0 enclosure
Looks good. If you're going to game, an upgrade to the vidcard is definitely in order. If you're not going to game, drop the vidcard entirely and use integrated graphics. Will consume less power.

Also 240GB should be enough for your program drive, you shouldn't need another HDD on top of the SSD for that. Unless you're installing lots of games.

 
Zas, I like the build you detailed above. One question I have that you might know - about these new intel chips and motherboards coming out vs. what's already available. In my "mancave" I'd like to have a triple TV/monitor set up all connected to an HTPC. Each independent to watch different sporting events (either streamed or via my networked TV tuner). Would anything already available do this, or would any of the soon to be released stuff?
If you're going multi-monitor you're going to need an external video card. I have never done this so I can't speak to anything beyond that.

Something like this would likely be good for multi-monitor setups. Lots of HDMI connections. But I'll defer to the other experts on the forum.

 
As I mentioned in the gaming PC thread, I'm rebuilding my main PC to add mega storage capabilities. Since I'm waiting on widespread Skylake availability (and will probably assemble the pieces slowly, as I can get them on sale), I thought I'd catalog my build for my own reference and suggestions.

$98 - Case: Thermaltake Core V71 (purchased)

$250 - Processor: Intel Slylake Core i5-6600k

$180 - Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Extreme 6

$90-130 - RAM: 16gb DDR4 - haven't researched yet

$150 - PSU: Seasonic SS-660XP2 (10 SATA connectors)

Total ~ $900 (oof, more than I was planning when planning to build a NAS)

Cannibalize Radeon 6850

Cannibalize 1x240GB Crucial mSATA SSD (may need to add PCI-> mSata card) $29

Cannibalize 1x2TB program drive

Cannibalize DVD burner and BluRay reader - may replace with BluRay/DVD/CD burner $50 to trim # of drives

Cannibalize 2x2TB & 2x3TB data drives from HTPC USB3.0 enclosure
Looks good. If you're going to game, an upgrade to the vidcard is definitely in order. If you're not going to game, drop the vidcard entirely and use integrated graphics. Will consume less power.

Also 240GB should be enough for your program drive, you shouldn't need another HDD on top of the SSD for that. Unless you're installing lots of games.
Good point. I set it up that way when I built this PC with a 64gb SSD, but never changed it. It may force me to install WIN10 fresh, which I was trying to avoid.

My main PC has always been a "gaming PC", but I haven't played anything in a few years. I may start with integrated graphics and keep the vid card on standby in case I get a hankering. Could always upgrade later to the latest/greatest if there's something I want to do.

 

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