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Mechanic guys, what might this be? (1 Viewer)

ghostguy123

ghostguy123

Footballguy
2009 Toyota Rav only about 65k miles.

Very wet and rainy outside, was getting on the highway.  I needed to speed up to get in front of a semi.  I felt a very minor slip when accelerating but really nothing significant.  I pulled in front of the semi just fine, then looked down and noticed several of my warning lights had just come one:

Check engine light, 4WD, and what looks like the traction control light(the one with the car and two squiggly lines under it).

I drove all the way to work fine, nothing appeared off.  Drove fine, felt fine, no noises.  I stopped and got gas. Started again fine.  Same lights came back on and stayed on again.

Wtf?

Edit........everything seems to be working just fine right now, even the cruise, after disconnecting the battery.  I did also get a new battery later that day.  All is well so far after about 75 miles.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
ghostguy123 said:
My HUM diagnostic tool from verizon emailed me with a code P0607
Click to expand...
“A P0607 could be caused by one or more of the following:

Loose ground terminal on PCM/ECM

Dead or defective (12V main) battery

An open or short in the power or ground circuit

Loose or corroded battery terminals

Failed PCM/ECM”

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0607
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

 
-fish- said:
“A P0607 could be caused by one or more of the following:

Loose ground terminal on PCM/ECM

Dead or defective (12V main) battery

An open or short in the power or ground circuit

Loose or corroded battery terminals

Failed PCM/ECM”

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0607
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
Click to expand...
I probably do need a new battery.  

Just seems odd it all happened right during an acceleration and a slip

 
My guess is that your transmission had a brief slip. Not sure if it's due to a faulty Engine Control Module or due to a faulty transmission.

I would re-set the code and then see if it comes on again during normal driving.

 
[scooter] said:
My guess is that your transmission had a brief slip. Not sure if it's due to a faulty Engine Control Module or due to a faulty transmission.

I would re-set the code and then see if it comes on again during normal driving.
Click to expand...
Reset the code as in disconnect the battery?  I dont know how else to reset anything

 
Last edited by a moderator:
ghostguy123 said:
[scooter] said:
My guess is that your transmission had a brief slip. Not sure if it's due to a faulty Engine Control Module or due to a faulty transmission.

I would re-set the code and then see if it comes on again during normal driving.
Click to expand...
Reset the code as in disconnect the battery?  I dont know how else to reset anything
Click to expand...
Completely disconnect the battery for at least an hour. Check to make sure there's no residual power in the car anywhere (turn on lights, honk the horn, etc.). Then hook up the battery again. If you think that your battery is low, then you might want to jump start it by running jumper cables to another car.

If that doesn't reset the code, then you can try taking it to an auto parts store -- many places will check the car for free (although not all of them will agree to reset the code, though).

 
ghostguy123 said:
Reset the code as in disconnect the battery?  I dont know how else to reset anything
Click to expand...
Should be a way to clear code using gas pedal and a certain sequence of pushing/holding it. 

Just google it. 

ETA: looks like on the rav 4 it involves pulling two fuses. 

 
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Did you try adjusting the Fetzer valve? Just use some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads. And about ten quarts of antifreeze. Preferably Prestone. No make that Quaker State.

 
New wrinkle.  Noticed on the way home tonight that the cruise control isnt working.   When I turn it on the cruise light just blinks slowly (rhythmically).   

÷%@^$%^#^##

 
check your fuse that governs the cruise control both inside the car and the in the engine compartment get your battery tested and check the battery cables if that doesnt work go in to a shop and have them take a look and hope like hell it is not the computer take that to the bank bromigo

 
So I disconnected the battery for a bit.  Reconnected and started it up.  Started fine then the car shut off after 2 seconds. Started again and running fine, no warning lights have come on after about 15 minutes of driving.

I stopped at auto zone for a new battery( needed one anyway).  After new battery was put in same thing.  Started up and shut off after a couple seconds.  Started back up and running fine.  No warning lights.  

Wtf is with it shutting off?

 
Make an appointment ASAP with your mechanic/dealership.  That's odd.

Also, try Up-Up-Down-Down-Left-Right-Left-Right-B-A.

 
ghostguy123 said:
2009 Toyota Rav only about 65k miles.

Very wet and rainy outside, was getting on the highway.  I needed to speed up to get in front of a semi.  I felt a very minor slip when accelerating but really nothing significant.  I pulled in front of the semi just fine, then looked down and noticed several of my warning lights had just come one:

Check engine light, 4WD, and what looks like the traction control light(the one with the car and two squiggly lines under it).

I drove all the way to work fine, nothing appeared off.  Drove fine, felt fine, no noises.  I stopped and got gas. Started again fine.  Same lights came back on and stayed on again.

Wtf?
Click to expand...
If you haven't already, might want to change transmission fluid.  I have the 2012 model (same generation I think), and can walk you through it if you like.  PM me.  Can't hurt.

 
if you're comfortable doing it, pull the fuses one by one and make sure none are burned out or "blackened". could be simple as that.

also, did you make sure to sand the terminals to remove any corrosion before putting in the new battery?

 
Get an OBDII wifi or bluetooth reader and the Torque app (android) or inCarDoc (ios).   It will read codes and allow you to clear codes.   Best $40 you'll spend if you work on your own car.

 
Another question for mechanic guy.

Looking at a used car today for my daughter.  2005 Honda CRV with 168k miles.

Runs and drives fine, no noises, no leaks, but under the hood it is a little dirty.   I thought there was oil on everything.  The guy told me he had undercoating done.

Would this have caused the engine area to get dirty with the stuff like that?  It's not CRAZY amounts or anything but stuff does need to be wiped off.

Or is he lying and it's really oil and gaskets are spewing or something?

 
Last edited by a moderator:
ghostguy123 said:
Another question for mechanic guy.

Looking at a used car today for my daughter.  2005 Honda CRV with 168k miles.

Runs and drives fine, no noises, no leaks, but under the hood it is a little dirty.   I thought there was oil on everything.  The guy told me he had undercoating done.

Would this have caused the engine area to get dirty with the stuff like that?  It's not CRAZY amounts or anything but stuff does need to be wiped off.

Or is he lying and it's really oil and gaskets are spewing or something?
Click to expand...
I don't know much about cars but why would you undercoat a 2005 Honda at this point.

I call B.S.

 
ghostguy123 said:
Another question for mechanic guy.

Looking at a used car today for my daughter.  2005 Honda CRV with 168k miles.

Runs and drives fine, no noises, no leaks, but under the hood it is a little dirty.   I thought there was oil on everything.  The guy told me he had undercoating done.

Would this have caused the engine area to get dirty with the stuff like that?  It's not CRAZY amounts or anything but stuff does need to be wiped off.

Or is he lying and it's really oil and gaskets are spewing or something?
Click to expand...
I don't see why you can't take to either a Honda, Acura or your favorite independent mechanic and have them perform a vehicle inspection which shouldn't be more than $100 - $150, even on a car worth $1,500 - $2,500 it's still money well spent.  Just my 2 cents.

 
Sullie said:
I don't see why you can't take to either a Honda, Acura or your favorite independent mechanic and have them perform a vehicle inspection which shouldn't be more than $100 - $150, even on a car worth $1,500 - $2,500 it's still money well spent.  Just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
I could, but I want to know more about this before I even decide I want the car enough to go spend that 100 bucks for an inspection.

 
Even assuming it is oil, why would oil be spurting out, and would that be an easy fix of a gasket cap or something?

It's probably like an ounce of oil, if its oil. Thin layer on most of the stuff.

 
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replacing a head gasket is worth more than the vehicle for a 05 honda.

oil "everywhere" seems odd.... have him start the car with the hood open, and have him rev it a few times... let it run a few mins, take ti for a spin and look under the hood again

 
I checked a couple miles down the road then again when I got back.  The level of oil was jo different.  Again, not even sure it was oil

 
I wouldn't believe anything he says. The valve cover is probably leaking.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
ghostguy123 said:
Even assuming it is oil, why would oil be spurting out, and would that be an easy fix of a gasket cap or something?

It's probably like an ounce of oil, if its oil. Thin layer on most of the stuff.
Click to expand...
Valve cover gasket may not be too bad to fix, but i wouldn’t risk it without having a mechanic check it out. It could be a lot worse.

 
if it is a blown head gasket then that’s more than one problem. Something caused the car to overheat and blow the head gasket that would also need to be fixed. It would pretty much be junk. 
I wouldn’t trust the guy about the undercoating. Undercoating is one of the biggest scams in the car business.
 

 
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