60-Minute Burn Time Ceilings - Any Suggestions? (1 Viewer)

[ClownCausedChaos2]

Getting ready to sell my house, and we have two bedrooms that sit above our garage and a finished rec room off the garage. The garage is a typical size one car garage. In order to bring the house up to code, all living areas must have a 60-minute burn time barrier, meaning that a ceiling and a wall must be constructed in my garage.

I've heard that there are several ways to do this. Lowe's has a 5/8" drywall that is rated and relatively cheap ($10 for a 4x8 sheet), that would require taping and mudding the ceiling. I've also heard that plywood can be used, but that is almost twice the price.

Surprisingly, trying to google recommendations and ideas has proven to be difficult. Does anyone out there have any suggestions or experience with this?

 

[El Floppo]

I'll assume wood framing? here

 

[ClownCausedChaos2]

I'll assume wood framing? here

Yep, that's the kind of stuff. Just something simple and easy that can be screwed up into the ceiling trusses. Unfortunately, I'm going to have to stud out the wall, because it's cinderblock.

What is the difference between drywall and this stuff (wallboard).

 

[dutch]

Wallboard is the term for any wall hanging while drywall is a generic term for a particular type of wallboard. Sheetrock is a brand name often used in reference to drywall.

 

[ClownCausedChaos2]

Wallboard is the term for any wall hanging while drywall is a generic term for a particular type of wallboard. Sheetrock is a brand name often used in reference to drywall.

Got it. Thanks.

 

[El Floppo]

IIRC, CMU (cinder block) has a fire rating too... you may not have to do anything at the walls.

 

[jon_mx]

It is probably a good proactive move to take care of this, just curious who is telling you to do this?

 

[belljr]

Here it needs to be 1.75 inches thick.

3 sheets of 5/8 taped is legal

 

[El Floppo]

Here it needs to be 1.75 inches thick.

3 sheets of 5/8 taped is legal

for 1hr rated? I thought it was 1x 5/8" type X GWB

 

[belljr]

Hmm not sure about the time rating. I just know the required thickness

maybe it's too much but that's what's on my wall and ceiling

 

[ClownCausedChaos2]

It is probably a good proactive move to take care of this, just curious who is telling you to do this?

Our realtor told us it needed done. She had checked with a housing appraiser.

 

[ClownCausedChaos2]

IIRC, CMU (cinder block) has a fire rating too... you may not have to do anything at the walls.

Yeah, we're double checking this.

 

[ClownCausedChaos2]

Here it needs to be 1.75 inches thick.

3 sheets of 5/8 taped is legal

for 1hr rated? I thought it was 1x 5/8" type X GWB

Yes, we were also told that one 5/8 was rated for 60 minutes and acceptable (we're in PA. I don't know if that matters)

 

[El Floppo]

IIRC, CMU (cinder block) has a fire rating too... you may not have to do anything at the walls.

Yeah, we're double checking this.

did a quick look-up.... I think it has to be filled with grout/mortar to count... unless it's 6" thick or more (usually 4").

 

[ChiefD]

Getting ready to sell my house, and we have two bedrooms that sit above our garage and a finished rec room off the garage. The garage is a typical size one car garage. In order to bring the house up to code, all living areas must have a 60-minute burn time barrier, meaning that a ceiling and a wall must be constructed in my garage.

I've heard that there are several ways to do this. Lowe's has a 5/8" drywall that is rated and relatively cheap ($10 for a 4x8 sheet), that would require taping and mudding the ceiling. I've also heard that plywood can be used, but that is almost twice the price.

Surprisingly, trying to google recommendations and ideas has proven to be difficult. Does anyone out there have any suggestions or experience with this?

Check with your city code guy, not the realtor.

 

[ClownCausedChaos2]

IIRC, CMU (cinder block) has a fire rating too... you may not have to do anything at the walls.

Yeah, we're double checking this.

did a quick look-up.... I think it has to be filled with grout/mortar to count... unless it's 6" thick or more (usually 4").

Yep, we were told that too.

 

[ClownCausedChaos2]

Getting ready to sell my house, and we have two bedrooms that sit above our garage and a finished rec room off the garage. The garage is a typical size one car garage. In order to bring the house up to code, all living areas must have a 60-minute burn time barrier, meaning that a ceiling and a wall must be constructed in my garage.

I've heard that there are several ways to do this. Lowe's has a 5/8" drywall that is rated and relatively cheap ($10 for a 4x8 sheet), that would require taping and mudding the ceiling. I've also heard that plywood can be used, but that is almost twice the price.

Surprisingly, trying to google recommendations and ideas has proven to be difficult. Does anyone out there have any suggestions or experience with this?

Check with your city code guy, not the realtor.

She's local and checked with a local appraiser/inspector.

 

[Fennis]

Getting ready to sell my house, and we have two bedrooms that sit above our garage and a finished rec room off the garage. The garage is a typical size one car garage. In order to bring the house up to code, all living areas must have a 60-minute burn time barrier, meaning that a ceiling and a wall must be constructed in my garage.

I've heard that there are several ways to do this. Lowe's has a 5/8" drywall that is rated and relatively cheap ($10 for a 4x8 sheet), that would require taping and mudding the ceiling. I've also heard that plywood can be used, but that is almost twice the price.

Surprisingly, trying to google recommendations and ideas has proven to be difficult. Does anyone out there have any suggestions or experience with this?

Check with your city code guy, not the realtor.

She's local and checked with a local appraiser/inspector.

have sex with the appraiser/inspector.

 

[ClownCausedChaos2]

Getting ready to sell my house, and we have two bedrooms that sit above our garage and a finished rec room off the garage. The garage is a typical size one car garage. In order to bring the house up to code, all living areas must have a 60-minute burn time barrier, meaning that a ceiling and a wall must be constructed in my garage.

I've heard that there are several ways to do this. Lowe's has a 5/8" drywall that is rated and relatively cheap ($10 for a 4x8 sheet), that would require taping and mudding the ceiling. I've also heard that plywood can be used, but that is almost twice the price.

Surprisingly, trying to google recommendations and ideas has proven to be difficult. Does anyone out there have any suggestions or experience with this?

Check with your city code guy, not the realtor.

She's local and checked with a local appraiser/inspector.

have sex with the appraiser/inspector.

On it.

 

[ROCKET]

I deal with fire rated assemblies every day so I'll thrown in my 2 cents worth. First of all I'd be surprised if they didn't accept a CMU wall as an acceptable fire separation even though it technically isn't rated if it wasn't grouted. One issue might be that it may not be continuous to the roof deck. I'd check with your local building inspector, it can't hurt to ask.

If they make you install drywall most likely they will make you frame out a wall and install one layer of 5/8" drywall (and tape) from the floor all the way up thru the trusses to the roof plywood seeing how you already have a CMU wall for separation.

To achieve a 1 hour rating the three most common options are:

1. A stud wall with one layer of 5/8" drywall on each side (taped) most times they will accept 1/2" drywall on the interior side and 5/8" in the garage even though it's supposed to be 5/8" on both sides.

2. Three layers of 5/8" drywall on one side of a wall (taped), no drywall on the other side is needed.

3. Two layers of 5/8" drywall (taped)with a 1" airspace in between the layers using 7/8" metal furring channels on one side of a wall, no drywall on the other side is needed.

Options 2 & 3 are typically used when you only have access to one side of a wall or on ceilings.

 

[ClownCausedChaos2]

I deal with fire rated assemblies every day so I'll thrown in my 2 cents worth. First of all I'd be surprised if they didn't accept a CMU wall as an acceptable fire separation even though it technically isn't rated if it wasn't grouted. One issue might be that it may not be continuous to the roof deck. I'd check with your local building inspector, it can't hurt to ask.

If they make you install drywall most likely they will make you frame out a wall and install one layer of 5/8" drywall (and tape) from the floor all the way up thru the trusses to the roof plywood seeing how you already have a CMU wall for separation.

To achieve a 1 hour rating the three most common options are:

1. A stud wall with one layer of 5/8" drywall on each side (taped) most times they will accept 1/2" drywall on the interior side and 5/8" in the garage even though it's supposed to be 5/8" on both sides.

2. Three layers of 5/8" drywall on one side of a wall (taped), no drywall on the other side is needed.

3. Two layers of 5/8" drywall (taped)with a 1" airspace in between the layers using 7/8" metal furring channels on one side of a wall, no drywall on the other side is needed.

Options 2 & 3 are typically used when you only have access to one side of a wall or on ceilings.

Awesome. Thank you for taking the time and providing the information.

 

[ROCKET]

I deal with fire rated assemblies every day so I'll thrown in my 2 cents worth. First of all I'd be surprised if they didn't accept a CMU wall as an acceptable fire separation even though it technically isn't rated if it wasn't grouted. One issue might be that it may not be continuous to the roof deck. I'd check with your local building inspector, it can't hurt to ask.

If they make you install drywall most likely they will make you frame out a wall and install one layer of 5/8" drywall (and tape) from the floor all the way up thru the trusses to the roof plywood seeing how you already have a CMU wall for separation.

To achieve a 1 hour rating the three most common options are:

1. A stud wall with one layer of 5/8" drywall on each side (taped) most times they will accept 1/2" drywall on the interior side and 5/8" in the garage even though it's supposed to be 5/8" on both sides.

2. Three layers of 5/8" drywall on one side of a wall (taped), no drywall on the other side is needed.

3. Two layers of 5/8" drywall (taped)with a 1" airspace in between the layers using 7/8" metal furring channels on one side of a wall, no drywall on the other side is needed.

Options 2 & 3 are typically used when you only have access to one side of a wall or on ceilings.

Awesome. Thank you for taking the time and providing the information.

No problem, I had to respond to the the one and only area of expertise I have ( was surprised to see a thread on it).

 

[ClownCausedChaos2]

I deal with fire rated assemblies every day so I'll thrown in my 2 cents worth. First of all I'd be surprised if they didn't accept a CMU wall as an acceptable fire separation even though it technically isn't rated if it wasn't grouted. One issue might be that it may not be continuous to the roof deck. I'd check with your local building inspector, it can't hurt to ask.

If they make you install drywall most likely they will make you frame out a wall and install one layer of 5/8" drywall (and tape) from the floor all the way up thru the trusses to the roof plywood seeing how you already have a CMU wall for separation.

To achieve a 1 hour rating the three most common options are:

1. A stud wall with one layer of 5/8" drywall on each side (taped) most times they will accept 1/2" drywall on the interior side and 5/8" in the garage even though it's supposed to be 5/8" on both sides.

2. Three layers of 5/8" drywall on one side of a wall (taped), no drywall on the other side is needed.

3. Two layers of 5/8" drywall (taped)with a 1" airspace in between the layers using 7/8" metal furring channels on one side of a wall, no drywall on the other side is needed.

Options 2 & 3 are typically used when you only have access to one side of a wall or on ceilings.

Awesome. Thank you for taking the time and providing the information.

No problem, I had to respond to the the one and only area of expertise I have ( was surprised to see a thread on it).

Hey, it's the FFA, where anything can happen.