http://culturecheesemag.com/blog/real-cheese-product-no-country-for-old-cheeses
By the end of the war, the military had purchased six million pounds of the stuff for its troops. As Melanie Warner notes in
Pandora’s Lunchbox: How Processed Food Took Over the American Meal, “And so in France, the nation with the world’s proudest cheese heritage, many Americans got their first taste of processed cheese.”
So Kraft made it big during wartime.
But how did his process cheese fare back home during peacetime you ask, intrigued and inquisitive reader that you are. Well, for the most part, Kraft process cheese was a smashing success. Households across the country liked it for the same reasons as the military: it didn’t spoil and it was consistent. No longer did housewives need to haggle with their cheesemongers for a slice of cheddar whose taste they could never guarantee would be the same from one batch to the next. Instead, all they had to do was head down to their local grocers; stock up on dozens of shiny Kraft tins; take them out weeks, months, or years down the line; and experience that same cheesy process goodness.
Now, process cheese wasn’t
universally accepted: many in the
real cheese business considered it a travesty of their golden dairy ideals (not to mention a serious contender and ever-growing competitor in the cheese market). In Wisconsin, the heartland of American cheese production for more than a hundred years, dairymen were up in arms, eventually instigating an investigation into Kraft cheese in 1925. When the Wisconsin Dairy and Food Commissioner discovered that the cheeses in Kraft Bros. tins weren’t properly aged and that their Roquefort, Swiss, and Camembert flavors were all made out of the same mild cheddar, it looked like Kraft was about to be slapped by the long regulatory backhand of the law.
Despite calls to officially dub the Kraft concoction “renovated cheese” or even “embalmed cheese,” the FDA finally stepped in and came up with the designation that we have all grown to love and appreciate: “process cheese.”