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Any Aquarium guys? (1 Viewer)

Another tip. If fish aren't doing well and you have rampant illnesses salt and heat are your friends. Not table salt. You will need sea salt. No fresh water fish disease can live in salt water. Neither can the fish, but in small doses, sea salt can act sort of like an antiseptic. I haven't used it in a long time so I don't know the correct ratio but adding some salt to the tank can help prevent disease. Also, if the fish are sick, raise the tank temp a few degrees. Do this slowly. Raise it 2 degrees every 4-6 hours till you get it to 8-10 degrees higher than you normally keep the tank. That will help the fish fend off the disease as well...
You can safely add 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of aquarium salt to any tank. I keep salt in every tank I have ever had.. Community, Cichlids, even Gold Fish. Not only helps with disease, but it helps bring out color.Just make sure at TheFanatic says, use "Aquarium Salt". NOT TABLE SALT. Table salt contains Iodine which is lethal. You can buy a big carton of freahwater aquarium salt at Petsmart for about $5.
 
In order to get all the debris out, i had to change most of the water (roughly 70% if i had to guess) The fish were very stressed out in what was an empty, dirty tank with me all over the place. They lost alot of color. However, once i got it all back together, they looked ok. Other than 2 of the peppered cory's everyone looks ok. The corys are just kind lethargic and laying around in diferent places than they usually do. (on big leaves, not moving)

As of last night, most of the ammonia was gone, but not all of it. I'm hoping its all gone when i get home from work today. I put most of the decor back in, but left out the biggest piece of drift wood so that i wouldnt have any blind spots. I also bought a 2nd, smaller filter in order to get some water movement on the left side of the tank.

All the plants are gone except for the 2 crypts. At least they were crappy plants. (i did like the look of the java moss though)

Total deaths so far from this episode are my red tail black shark (Tyson, really liked him alot) and 3 panda corys. I think the pandas just arent meant to be, but tyson is a shame. He was so mellow and didnt bother anyone. He also brought the clown loaches out of hiding alot more often.

I'll update again if i have more problems. I'll probably try plants again in a month or 2. (this time with decent lighting and ferts) Thanks for all the help.

 
http://fishforum.com/index.php

http://badmanstropicalfish.com/

These are two forums that were really helpful when I had a problem in one of my tanks. Great place to get some idea plants, computability and light requirements. A LOT of shops don't have much expertise in plants and their requirements as well as computability with fish.
Thanks for the links. I'll check them out.I will try to do plants again at some point, but if i do, I've got to do it right. (Full lighting system, ferts, maybe Co2) This has been a painful lesson. When i cant even keep java moss alive, its obvious that the facilities are substandard.
I will have to get a pic of my tank up, but I pretty much just run a HO 65K bulb in my tank. I can give you the model that I use for a 29g but I have plants galore and they don't get much in the way of ferts or CO2, just light and they are doing extremely well.
 
Appreciate the input. My tank is a 75 gallon, so i think its a little harder to get light to the bottom(where most of the plants would be) I don't want a heavily planted tank, but i dont want to be limited in my choices.

 
by the way, my co-worker just started a 38 gallon for her son. No cycle done at all, brand new filter, and they threw in two irradescent sharks, 2 plecos and various other fish. They, of course, have an Ich problem right off the bat. I tried to explain why and how to cycle (wrote a 4 pgh email about it this morning) With that setup, it may be too late anyways, but at least i tried.

I would offer them some of my mature filter media, but i obviously dont have any to spare at the moment.

 
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by the way, my co-worker just started a 38 gallon for her son. No cycle done at all, brand new filter, and they threw in two irradescent sharks, 2 plecos and various other fish. They, of course, have an Ich problem right off the bat. I tried to explain why and how to cycle (wrote a 4 pgh email about it this morning) With that setup, it may be too late anyways, but at least i tried.I would offer them some of my mature filter media, but i obviously dont have any to spare at the moment.
They could go get some biospira...instant cycle pretty much. It would at least help with the problems until they get a stable colony built up.
 
Appreciate the input. My tank is a 75 gallon, so i think its a little harder to get light to the bottom(where most of the plants would be) I don't want a heavily planted tank, but i dont want to be limited in my choices.
You could use the bigger version of what I have. I have a 29G high so it's as tall as a 75G just not as wide. I have a variety of swords, leatherleaf, ludwigia and some other ones that I don't remember the names of. And my tank is what I would consider moderately planted. We just moved so I am waiting a couple of weeks and then adding more fish as I have a Powder blue gourami that has killed a bunch of his tank mates (2 other powder blues and 2 flame gouramis)
 
by the way, my co-worker just started a 38 gallon for her son. No cycle done at all, brand new filter, and they threw in two irradescent sharks, 2 plecos and various other fish. They, of course, have an Ich problem right off the bat. I tried to explain why and how to cycle (wrote a 4 pgh email about it this morning) With that setup, it may be too late anyways, but at least i tried.I would offer them some of my mature filter media, but i obviously dont have any to spare at the moment.
They could go get some biospira...instant cycle pretty much. It would at least help with the problems until they get a stable colony built up.
have you ever seen that stuff work? Everyone i've talked to seems to think its a waste of money. (especially if its not refridgerated.)Anyone have a good suggestion for a lighting system for my 75 gallon? I'd want to be able to plant pretty much anything, but a ton of it. I'd love to do some big swords, some really bushy mid tank type stuff and some carpetting plants (maybe hairgrass or a riccia carpet) Thanks.links would be helpful.
 
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by the way, my co-worker just started a 38 gallon for her son. No cycle done at all, brand new filter, and they threw in two irradescent sharks, 2 plecos and various other fish. They, of course, have an Ich problem right off the bat. I tried to explain why and how to cycle (wrote a 4 pgh email about it this morning) With that setup, it may be too late anyways, but at least i tried.I would offer them some of my mature filter media, but i obviously dont have any to spare at the moment.
They could go get some biospira...instant cycle pretty much. It would at least help with the problems until they get a stable colony built up.
have you ever seen that stuff work? Everyone i've talked to seems to think its a waste of money. (especially if its not refridgerated.)Anyone have a good suggestion for a lighting system for my 75 gallon? I'd want to be able to plant pretty much anything, but a ton of it. I'd love to do some big swords, some really bushy mid tank type stuff and some carpetting plants (maybe hairgrass or a riccia carpet) Thanks.links would be helpful.
I have used it successfully in a smaller tank, but it worked nonetheless. The key is to have media for the spira to start building on. Let me see if I can find what lighting I have now. BTW those forums I gave you is where I found all of my info and are GREAT with plants.
 
I have a Current Satellite Dual 1x65watt CFL. Here are their Satellite offerings, and they have much higher output stuff as well. FYI my lighting cost about 200 bucks, and I would expect to pay 350-400 for a 75g tank.

This is a great site for determining wattage needs and the differences between HO, CFL and FL.

Also, I can't recommend Fishforum to learn about lighting, plants and the associated ferts, co2 etc.

 
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Appreciate the input. My tank is a 75 gallon, so i think its a little harder to get light to the bottom(where most of the plants would be) I don't want a heavily planted tank, but i dont want to be limited in my choices.
75 gallon isn't a big deal in terms of depth. I have a 110 which is technically a show tank. 24 inches tall. You're only 18 inches tall. I have the light strip that came with it and a dual bulb 4 footer from thatpetplace.com that I put behind the regular strip. That's it. And order all your bulbs online. Those $30 bulbs online are $12-15 online...
 
I'm starting to think that my test kit liquids may have gone bad. All the plant waste is gone(Tuesday) and i added a 2nd filter. I've limited the feeding, but there is still ammonia. About 2ppm according to my test kit. the Rummy nosed tetras and cardinal tetras are showing brilliant color and shoaling all over the tank. The clown loaches appear to be fine and the german blue rams are just chilling out like normal (I can never get them to color up though). I gotta think if a shoal of cardinals had been exposed to 5 days of ammonia that they'd be showing signs of stress by now.

The only fish showing any bad signs are the peppered corys. they are basically just sitting around. I got them from what i thought was a good store (i managed to go there on the 1 day a year they clean the tanks it seems) so they've never really displayed true cory behavior. Maybe they just need to be in a bigger group(only 5 now)

I'd hate to spend another $30 on another test kit, but i just cant see how the ammonia is still present. Shouldn't the bacteria colony double every 24 hours if there is ammonia to feed off of?

 
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Hows this looking for lighting?

http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/204926/product.web

not sure if it comes with the bulbs though? I'd love to be able to have the night time lighting as well. That would be sick.

Also, anyone have any suggestions to fill out my stocking? I'll be getting some more corys, but i need some stuff for the top part of the tank too. Maybe a new centerpiece type fish now that my red Tail black shark is gone.

 
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I'm starting to think that my test kit liquids may have gone bad. All the plant waste is gone(Tuesday) and i added a 2nd filter. I've limited the feeding, but there is still ammonia. About 2ppm according to my test kit. the Rummy nosed tetras and cardinal tetras are showing brilliant color and shoaling all over the tank. The clown loaches appear to be fine and the german blue rams are just chilling out like normal (I can never get them to color up though). I gotta think if a shoal of cardinals had been exposed to 5 days of ammonia that they'd be showing signs of stress by now.
Here's the deal. Don't trust the test kits. Trust your eyes. Are the fish doing well? Then things are going well. Don't spend all of your time looking at a test kit. I couldn't even tell you where mine is. Haven't seen it in maybe 10 years and last night I just moved a fish that is now 20 years old into a new tank. If you do the maintenance (regular water changes), don't over stock or over feed then you won't have to worry about any of that. Hell, I don't even condition my water other than removing the chlorine.
The only fish showing any bad signs are the peppered corys. they are basically just sitting around. I got them from what i thought was a good store (i managed to go there on the 1 day a year they clean the tanks it seems) so they've never really displayed true cory behavior. Maybe they just need to be in a bigger group(only 5 now)
Don't fret the cory's. Sometimes they just sit there. Sometimes they are rocketing to the surface to get a gulp of air. All the fish have been pretty stressed for a while. Let it calm down a bit. Take your time. Let everything settle down for at least a couple of weeks. And when you do add more fish only add 1 or 1 kind if you are buying schooling fish. Say you want to buy more neon tetras. Buy 5 more and put them in but don't buy 5 more tetras, a red tailed shark and a silver dollar and put them all in there. The trick is consistency and not to make drastic changes. So have a little patience...
 
I'm being somewhat patient, but i just hate to think that these guys are being poisoned in there. But like i said, I find it hard to believe the tank conditions are bad when two fairly fragile tetra species are doing so well.

I honestly think i just got some bad peppered corys. I got 7 originally, and didnt realize that two of them were missing an eyes. 2 died within the first 4 days (1 of the cycloptic ones has survived) but they've never really been very active. Occasionally, 2 or 3 of them will swim around a bit, but 95% of the time, the 5 that are remaining just sit on the bottom, not socializing with each other at all.

I'd like to replace the RTBS, only because he managed to draw the Clown loaches out of hiding. He was so mellow too. Never bothered a soul. I'm afraid the next one i get will be a #### and chase my little tetras and rams all over the place. Have you ever kept rams? Any advice to color them up a bit?

I know that right now my tank needs time to settle down, but how far do you think i could push the stocking with some moderate planting? As of now, I'm pretty closed to full stocked if you follow the 1 inch by gallon rule, but thats obviously just a guide. The tank still seems so empty.

Current stocking again....

10 danios (about an inch long)

10 cardinals (about the same)

10 rummy nosed (about the same)

2 rams (about 2.5 inches each)

4 clowns (roughly 3.5 inches long now)

5 peppered cories (about an inch and a half, maybe)

1 panda cory (a inch, if that)

So that puts me at about 57-60 inches worth of fish right now(although the clowns will get bigger)

I may up the tetra shoals to 15 each, but I'm not sure what do after that.

 
Hows this looking for lighting?

http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/204926/product.web

not sure if it comes with the bulbs though? I'd love to be able to have the night time lighting as well. That would be sick.

Also, anyone have any suggestions to fill out my stocking? I'll be getting some more corys, but i need some stuff for the top part of the tank too. Maybe a new centerpiece type fish now that my red Tail black shark is gone.
WOW, lighting has gotten expensive. All you need is a dual bulb fixture. While I used to be a compact florescent guy I saw a side by side with these lights at a petstore and they killed the compacts.

These super compact lights had MUCH better color.

This is the second light I have on my big tank that goes along with the stock lights it came with.

I'm going to convert to those ultra thin light strips as soon as I get over the cost of spending all the money on the new 75 gallon.

BTW, my 22 inch Clown Knife is safely in his new 75 gallon tank. My 110 looks like hell, but I will finish the process of gutting it on Monday night. I've been taking pics so I will post pics when I can...

 
I'm starting to think that my test kit liquids may have gone bad. All the plant waste is gone(Tuesday) and i added a 2nd filter. I've limited the feeding, but there is still ammonia. About 2ppm according to my test kit. the Rummy nosed tetras and cardinal tetras are showing brilliant color and shoaling all over the tank. The clown loaches appear to be fine and the german blue rams are just chilling out like normal (I can never get them to color up though). I gotta think if a shoal of cardinals had been exposed to 5 days of ammonia that they'd be showing signs of stress by now.
Here's the deal. Don't trust the test kits. Trust your eyes. Are the fish doing well? Then things are going well. Don't spend all of your time looking at a test kit. I couldn't even tell you where mine is. Haven't seen it in maybe 10 years and last night I just moved a fish that is now 20 years old into a new tank. If you do the maintenance (regular water changes), don't over stock or over feed then you won't have to worry about any of that. Hell, I don't even condition my water other than removing the chlorine.
The only fish showing any bad signs are the peppered corys. they are basically just sitting around. I got them from what i thought was a good store (i managed to go there on the 1 day a year they clean the tanks it seems) so they've never really displayed true cory behavior. Maybe they just need to be in a bigger group(only 5 now)
Don't fret the cory's. Sometimes they just sit there. Sometimes they are rocketing to the surface to get a gulp of air. All the fish have been pretty stressed for a while. Let it calm down a bit. Take your time. Let everything settle down for at least a couple of weeks. And when you do add more fish only add 1 or 1 kind if you are buying schooling fish. Say you want to buy more neon tetras. Buy 5 more and put them in but don't buy 5 more tetras, a red tailed shark and a silver dollar and put them all in there. The trick is consistency and not to make drastic changes. So have a little patience...
Great post. The eyeball test (presuming some degree of sophistication on the part of the observer) will tell you if your tank is healthy.
 
I'm being somewhat patient, but i just hate to think that these guys are being poisoned in there. But like i said, I find it hard to believe the tank conditions are bad when two fairly fragile tetra species are doing so well. I honestly think i just got some bad peppered corys. I got 7 originally, and didnt realize that two of them were missing an eyes. 2 died within the first 4 days (1 of the cycloptic ones has survived) but they've never really been very active. Occasionally, 2 or 3 of them will swim around a bit, but 95% of the time, the 5 that are remaining just sit on the bottom, not socializing with each other at all. I'd like to replace the RTBS, only because he managed to draw the Clown loaches out of hiding. He was so mellow too. Never bothered a soul. I'm afraid the next one i get will be a #### and chase my little tetras and rams all over the place. Have you ever kept rams? Any advice to color them up a bit?I know that right now my tank needs time to settle down, but how far do you think i could push the stocking with some moderate planting? As of now, I'm pretty closed to full stocked if you follow the 1 inch by gallon rule, but thats obviously just a guide. The tank still seems so empty. Current stocking again....10 danios (about an inch long)10 cardinals (about the same)10 rummy nosed (about the same)2 rams (about 2.5 inches each)4 clowns (roughly 3.5 inches long now)5 peppered cories (about an inch and a half, maybe)1 panda cory (a inch, if that)So that puts me at about 57-60 inches worth of fish right now(although the clowns will get bigger)I may up the tetra shoals to 15 each, but I'm not sure what do after that.
Do you have a background on the tank? That will color up the Rams. Go with solid black. Don't mess with anything else. Otherwise I would buy a few more. The true color comes out when they are competing for mates. Also, just because a fish is colorful in a book doesn't mean it will be in your tank. You might have a washed out strain that doesn't have the same color as the wild caught ones. 1 inch of fish per gallon of water is a load of crap. Does a 12 inch oscar put the same waste into the water as twelve 1 inch danios? Nope. You have all very small, very light waste producers. You could double every single total of fish you have listed and be just fine. The problem is that you have all very small fish. So you need to increase the numbers of those fish. I would add 4 more Rams, a red tailed shark since you like that so much (Bait fish in Thailand by the way!!), and up the numbers of whatever of the schools of tetras or danios you like the best. Pearl Gourami (Trichogaster Leeri). Or maybe some of the new dwarf honey gourami's with the neon blue dorsal fin. I just got 3 of those myself. The thing is you can't add much that is big because it will eat what is small. A couple of angels would be great, but eventually those neons would be lunch...I would definitely plant the tank. The more plants the fish have to hide behind, the more they come out because they know they can dart back in at a moments notice. GL and keep us posted...
 
Great post. The eyeball test (presuming some degree of sophistication on the part of the observer) will tell you if your tank is healthy.
Right. Here are some guidelines. Are the fish eating? Are they at the appropriate level in the tank? Cories at the top or Angels at the bottom are bad. Are they swimming normally or in a jerky fashion? Are they breathing heavy? Are they scratching themselves on rocks? Are their fins crimped in? Are their colors faded? Like I said, they will let you know when things aren't going well...
 
Don't forget that most petstores (including the big ones, ie. Petsmart) will test your water for free. Just take a sample up to them and they can check the amonia level out. You can compare it to the results you are getting at home.

 
WOW, lighting has gotten expensive.
I guess that means you don't have experience with a good marine lighting setup. I own an Outer Orbit setup and bought the thing for about 650. Outer Orbit is respectable, but far from the best light setup there is.
 
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i do have a background on the tank. Its a bunch of green plants and wood and stuff. Maybe i should go solid black.

I'm going to plant the tank for sure. I just need to get a better grasp on lighting and ferts. I'm also gonna get some sort of pebble mixture to mix up with the sand. I'd like to create a sort of riverbed type look and the sand alone isn't cutting it.

i just took what i think are some decent pics. I'll post them in a 2nd.

 
Great post. The eyeball test (presuming some degree of sophistication on the part of the observer) will tell you if your tank is healthy.
Right. Here are some guidelines. Are the fish eating? Are they at the appropriate level in the tank? Cories at the top or Angels at the bottom are bad. Are they swimming normally or in a jerky fashion? Are they breathing heavy? Are they scratching themselves on rocks? Are their fins crimped in? Are their colors faded? Like I said, they will let you know when things aren't going well...
The 2 cory i was worried about had alot of top time yesterday, but seem to have settled today. The danios are at the bottom a little more often, but nobody is just sitting there.
 
i do have a background on the tank. Its a bunch of green plants and wood and stuff. Maybe i should go solid black. I'm going to plant the tank for sure. I just need to get a better grasp on lighting and ferts. I'm also gonna get some sort of pebble mixture to mix up with the sand. I'd like to create a sort of riverbed type look and the sand alone isn't cutting it. i just took what i think are some decent pics. I'll post them in a 2nd.
With planting, don't get nutty. Add an extra light, and put in some fertilizer. That's it. Don't over think it. Trust me. I spend 10 years over thinking stuff and all it got me was a lot of dead fish and plants. But for the last 15 I've had it down because I don't over think it. Then again I had to go through 10 years of trial and error. I still have some trial and error moments, just not as much now a days. Take your time....
 
Ok, some tank pics, taken 5 minutes ago.....

Full tank Pic(complete with testing kit liquids)

right side of the tank(used to have java moss/ferns on top of the wood and rocks)

left side(missing a big piece of wood i took out so i could see, plus it used to have some moss and a small fern)

my least shy clown(and some drip marks)

a few more coming after i eat some dinner (damn imageshack is slow)

I didn't really give much thought to how i put the fake plants back in. I was trying to get the hell out of the tank so the fish could calm down a bit.

 
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Ok, some tank pics, taken 5 minutes ago.....

Full tank Pic(complete with testing kit liquids)

right side of the tank(used to have java moss/ferns on top of the wood and rocks)

left side(missing a big piece of wood i took out so i could see, plus it used to have some moss and a small fern)

my least shy clown(and some drip marks)

a few more coming after i eat some dinner (damn imageshack is slow)

I didn't really give much thought to how i put the fake plants back in. I was trying to get the hell out of the tank so the fish could calm down a bit.
OK, first, that's a great looking tank. But we need to switch up the background. Putting the background of the planted tank is like wearing the concert T-Shirt of the band you are going to see that night. Don't be that guy (PCI reference). Always go black.Second, there is a trick to doing plastic plants. Most plastic plants come in various sizes. Clump 3-6 of the same plastic plant in various sizes together of the same type and it will look damn near realistic, particularly when a little algae grows on the leaves. Obviously you can't do this with an amazon sword, but you can with the types of plants that tendril up to the top....

The sand looks fantastic. That's a great good look. I don't see that very often.

Honestly, you need something that reaches the top of the tank. If you get some ornaments that reach the top you will see more fish at the top. Get a gigantic piece of drift wood. I have something like that in both my 75 and 110. In my 55 it's all plants all the time that reach the top. One huge chunk of wood off to the side (never center anything or try to make a tank symmetrical) and the tank will really look great. How about a school of hatchets? They school along the top. You just have to make sure that even the tiniest gap along the top is covered as hatchets jump when nervous and can easily jump outta the tank.

If not a piece of driftwood which will stain the water slightly for a few months you could clump together plants of the same type making sure that some of them are the 18 inch variety. Seriously, take a couple of 18 inchers, two 12 inchers, and two 6 inchers of the same type and clump them all together and it will look as natural as possible.

If it were me I would go with a gigantic piece of driftwood and some fake plants....But you do what you gotta do...

 
as i said, i just haphazardly threw the plants back in there after i cleared it out on Tuesday to clean it. Those redish/pinksh plants are all the same (just different sizes) and i have been clumping them together. They are usually in the back, and the cardinal tetras and blue rams use them as their hangout stop. When i put the big piece of wood back in there, you only see the tops. (Unfortunately, the wood isn't very tall. It's just really interesting) They are just nice cover for the shyer fish.

I think you are definitely right about the background. I'll just get a black one next time i hit the pet store.

I'm not sure where I'd put a really tall piece of wood. I really like what I've got in the two back corners at the moment. That rock cave is the clowns' favorite hiding spot and quite a feat of engineering. I agree that i need more stuff to reach the top. I just don't want to put whatever it is in the middle because it will make the tank look too symmetrical. I'll think about it this weekend.

The only thing I'm thinking is maybe i get a big piece of wood that looks like a tree stump and put it front right. It won't block out view of the rock cave, but it will give the tank some height.

and o yeah, i appreciate the compliments. I'm glad i went with the sand, although it is tough to keep clean. I've also tried to keep it deeper in the back to give the tank depth, but it always settles and moves everywhere.

EDIT:and hatchets are something I've been looking at for a while. I like the marble ones.

2nd edit: to anyone who cares an idea of the relative size of current decor. 2nd piece of wood from left isnt in these pictures, but thats how big it is. Floor plan, sort of.

 
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Thats a 100 GALLON tank??? He's massive!!What kind of plants are those?
No, that's a 75. Set him up with smaller digs so I can do something cool with the 110 gallon. Still he's about 22 inches. It's a smaller tank but not nearly as decorated so he actually has more room. I had two pieces of wood the size of the one on the right in the 75 in my 110 and 2 plants the size of that one in the 110 as well. Not much room. This is smaller but less densely decorated. Those are Amazon swords I pulled from my 110 so I could get the gravel out to put in the 75. They will go back into the 110 when I redo it except for the big one that is planted on the left. He likes to "hide" behind it...

 
man the corys must be in real bad shape. I literally have to tap them with the net to get them to move. (Only reason i went in there is because i thought they were dead) they honestly don't move for hours at a time.

 
Ok... I want to convert my 55 gallon fresh to a saltwater tank. I am more than confident in my ability to handle freshwater, but have never set up a marine tank. What do I need to know as far as important differences between marine and fresh setups? I do know one example. A freshwater tank (community, semi-agressive) works best with a PH close to 7.0. A marine tank thrives better at around 8.0-8.4. My African Cichlids like a PH around 8 as well....

So here is what I have.

Tank, ample filtration, aeration, heating, protein skimmer.

I need to pick up some Instant Ocean salt, and some type of substrate. I'm assuming sand of course, but does it matter WHAT type of sand to get? I know that Africans like the substrate that has argonite in it and it helps to maintain a higher PH as well. I wish I knew that before I setup the tank with river rock.

So. Some tips for someone who knows fresh, but is looking to make the switch to marine?

 
Ok... I want to convert my 55 gallon fresh to a saltwater tank. I am more than confident in my ability to handle freshwater, but have never set up a marine tank. What do I need to know as far as important differences between marine and fresh setups? I do know one example. A freshwater tank (community, semi-agressive) works best with a PH close to 7.0. A marine tank thrives better at around 8.0-8.4. My African Cichlids like a PH around 8 as well....So here is what I have.Tank, ample filtration, aeration, heating, protein skimmer.I need to pick up some Instant Ocean salt, and some type of substrate. I'm assuming sand of course, but does it matter WHAT type of sand to get? I know that Africans like the substrate that has argonite in it and it helps to maintain a higher PH as well. I wish I knew that before I setup the tank with river rock. So. Some tips for someone who knows fresh, but is looking to make the switch to marine?
Actually, crushed coral is a better substrate than sand usually in a marine tank...
 
Hey guys need some advice on my fish tank

I have a 29 gallon freshwater tank. I have had the tank about 9 months.

Fish

1 Rainbow Shark

1 Swordtail

1 Blue Paradise

1 Cherry Barb (had 4, but other 3 died about 5 months ago - not sure why)

5 small (1 inch) schooling fish (I am completely blanking on the name)

2 corys

3 plecos

3 otocinclus cats

Plants

1 large African Sword (had 3, but 2 died over Christmas - see below)

3 baby African Swords (large one sent out a runner couple weeks ago)

6-7 Jungle Val

3 Cryptocoryne undulata

3 Cabomba

Water Changes - once a week i take out about 6-7 gallons and clean the gravel with the vac tube thing

Ok I am fairly new to this so some of my questions may be dumb.

1) Is my mix of fish ok? How many more fish can I put in there?

2) Over Christmas I was gone for about 2 weeks. I did a water change and cleaned the tank and changed the carbon in my aquaclear 50 right before I left. I got an automatic feeder to keep the fish fed - which turned out to be the problem. I think it was severly overfeeding the fish while I was gone. I came back and the algae had went crazy all over the place. I cleaned the glass on the aquarium when I got back, but the plants have a ton of algae on them. Is this bad for the plants? I would assume so, but I am not sure). I added 3 Cabombas hoping that would help, but the algae eaters still have not been making much progress. What can I do here?

3) I had two swords die over Christmas, not sure why, but might be related to the over feeding and algae problem. Would that make sense?

4) Any other suggestions? shredhead mentioned getting his tank to the point where it is balanced and all he has to do is feedings - that is where I would like to get to as well.

 
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Ok... I want to convert my 55 gallon fresh to a saltwater tank. I am more than confident in my ability to handle freshwater, but have never set up a marine tank. What do I need to know as far as important differences between marine and fresh setups? I do know one example. A freshwater tank (community, semi-agressive) works best with a PH close to 7.0. A marine tank thrives better at around 8.0-8.4. My African Cichlids like a PH around 8 as well....So here is what I have.Tank, ample filtration, aeration, heating, protein skimmer.I need to pick up some Instant Ocean salt, and some type of substrate. I'm assuming sand of course, but does it matter WHAT type of sand to get? I know that Africans like the substrate that has argonite in it and it helps to maintain a higher PH as well. I wish I knew that before I setup the tank with river rock. So. Some tips for someone who knows fresh, but is looking to make the switch to marine?
Actually, crushed coral is a better substrate than sand usually in a marine tank...
I think the best for a beginner is oolitic sand. The larger the substrate the more uneaten food gets caught in the substrate leading to a water toxicity issue. For a fish only tank, I think it is neat to setup a bare bottom tank. I've seen then in action and they look very cool.
 
Hey guys need some advice on my fish tank

I have a 29 gallon freshwater tank. I have had the tank about 9 months.

Fish

1 Rainbow Shark

1 Swordtail

1 Blue Paradise

1 Cherry Barb (had 4, but other 3 died about 5 months ago - not sure why)

5 small (1 inch) schooling fish (I am completely blanking on the name)

2 corys

3 plecos

3 otocinclus cats

Plants

1 large African Sword (had 3, but 2 died over Christmas - see below)

3 baby African Swords (large one sent out a runner couple weeks ago)

6-7 Jungle Val

3 Cryptocoryne undulata

3 Cabomba

Water Changes - once a week i take out about 6-7 gallons and clean the gravel with the vac tube thing

Ok I am fairly new to this so some of my questions may be dumb.
1) Is my mix of fish ok? How many more fish can I put in there?
That mix is OK for now. Couple of suggestions. Barbs are schooling fish. They get highly aggressive towards tank mates if they are not in a school. They tend to get nippy. Buy 4 more to make a small school. Also, those Plecos are fine for now but will grow. I'm guessing common pleco (Hypostomus Plecostomus). Those things can get to be more than a foot long. You would be OK with 1 and those Ottos.

2) Over Christmas I was gone for about 2 weeks. I did a water change and cleaned the tank and changed the carbon in my aquaclear 50 right before I left. I got an automatic feeder to keep the fish fed - which turned out to be the problem. I think it was severly overfeeding the fish while I was gone. I came back and the algae had went crazy all over the place. I cleaned the glass on the aquarium when I got back, but the plants have a ton of algae on them. Is this bad for the plants? I would assume so, but I am not sure). I added 3 Cabombas hoping that would help, but the algae eaters still have not been making much progress. What can I do here?
Algae on the plants is not good. Stick your hand in and gently smooth the algae off the leaves with your thumb. The algae will keep the light from getting to the leaves and cripple the plant. You may want to add a Phosphate remover to your filter. It usually comes in a granular form and you have to put it into a mesh bag. I use this stuff in my canisters. Helps with Hair algae if you ever get that. Pray that you don't.
3) I had two swords die over Christmas, not sure why, but might be related to the over feeding and algae problem. Would that make sense?
Could be. I can't be sure as to why they died. I would replace them, but not at the same time you add Barbs. Take it slow. Add some barbs. Wait a week or two and then add more swords.
4) Any other suggestions? shredhead mentioned getting his tank to the point where it is balanced and all he has to do is feedings - that is where I would like to get to as well.
Water changes and feedings as well as plant pruning. Take care of that and you will be good to go. Don't overpopulate the tank and you should get there with no problem...
 
another question i had5) i have started seeing a couple snails in the tank. i assume they have snuck in on the plants i purchased. is this bad?
They aren't bad. But they will multiply like crazy. The good news is they lay eggs at the water line. When you walk by the tank and see them up there, smash them against the glass. You could let them go, but there will be hundreds in about a month...
 
Ok... I want to convert my 55 gallon fresh to a saltwater tank. I am more than confident in my ability to handle freshwater, but have never set up a marine tank. What do I need to know as far as important differences between marine and fresh setups? I do know one example. A freshwater tank (community, semi-agressive) works best with a PH close to 7.0. A marine tank thrives better at around 8.0-8.4. My African Cichlids like a PH around 8 as well....So here is what I have.Tank, ample filtration, aeration, heating, protein skimmer.I need to pick up some Instant Ocean salt, and some type of substrate. I'm assuming sand of course, but does it matter WHAT type of sand to get? I know that Africans like the substrate that has argonite in it and it helps to maintain a higher PH as well. I wish I knew that before I setup the tank with river rock. So. Some tips for someone who knows fresh, but is looking to make the switch to marine?
Actually, crushed coral is a better substrate than sand usually in a marine tank...
I think the best for a beginner is oolitic sand. The larger the substrate the more uneaten food gets caught in the substrate leading to a water toxicity issue. For a fish only tank, I think it is neat to setup a bare bottom tank. I've seen then in action and they look very cool.
Good point. And they have sand now that is essentially crushed coral that is crushed down to sand size. That's what I'm putting into my new Peacock tank. The point being that you want it to be calcium carbonate so that it elevates the Ph naturally and keeps it buffered high....
 
no deaths over the weekend (most of the fish are doing fine) The Corys are still very sluggish and a few are not eating. the clown loaches are hiding alot more due to the death or their more outgoing friend (my Red tailed black shark)

Eveyone else looks good though and the tank water is crystal clear (using activated carbon in the tank for the first time)

 
thanks fantastic.

ill add some barbs and look at the phosphate remover

how much fertilizer do i put in for the plants.

the guy at the fish store told me 1 capful twice a week. Does that sound right?

 
Ok... I want to convert my 55 gallon fresh to a saltwater tank. I am more than confident in my ability to handle freshwater, but have never set up a marine tank. What do I need to know as far as important differences between marine and fresh setups? I do know one example. A freshwater tank (community, semi-agressive) works best with a PH close to 7.0. A marine tank thrives better at around 8.0-8.4. My African Cichlids like a PH around 8 as well....

So here is what I have.

Tank, ample filtration, aeration, heating, protein skimmer.

I need to pick up some Instant Ocean salt, and some type of substrate. I'm assuming sand of course, but does it matter WHAT type of sand to get? I know that Africans like the substrate that has argonite in it and it helps to maintain a higher PH as well. I wish I knew that before I setup the tank with river rock.

So. Some tips for someone who knows fresh, but is looking to make the switch to marine?
PM me if you want I have a 75 and 140 saltwater tank.The salt pretty much stabilizes the pH so you shouldn't have an issue.

Salt water filtration is totally different than freshwater filtration. No need for aeration either. The skimmer though is key, make sure it is rated for a larger tank than the tank you actually have. An underneath sump is also very helpful and a good place for the skimmer unless you have one that hangs on.

Bottom substrate is also crucial. I would recomend either bare bottom (but it does eliminate some fish that need a sand bed) or sand bed (4-6 inches deep, buy "live sand"). Do not use crushed coral. Looks bad, fish don't like it and it traps too much debris.

This website is awesome Reef Central and Main Page

 
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any thoughts on Co2? I trust you when you say that all you need are some decent lights and good ferts. However, a lot of the articles i am reading suggest that a non-Co2 tank with lighting over 2 watts per gallon will have an algae problem. I know that the WPG rule isn't hard and fast, but how well lit are your planted tanks? Do you experience any algae issues?

edit: please keep in mind that i want to have some bottom of the tank type stuff (hair grass or the like) so i assume i will need a pretty well lit tank. O yeah, i also had another death today. The most sluggish of the corys lost his fight with whatever they were dealing with. At this point, I'm down to 4 (4 peppers, 1 panda) At least they are starting to move around a bit and all but 1 ate today. I'm looking forward to replenishing my cory population soon. Not sure what species though.

 
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top dog - I don't know if it's been mentioned but please try to remember if you treated that tank with any chemicals while it was a freshwater tank. Many medicines and chemical treatments used for freshwater use copper and other metals that leach into the glass or acrylic and will be toxic to saltwater life, especially corals and shrimp. I don't know if there is a solution to your issue, but talk to the LFS you go to and see what they think about it. If this leads to you aborting the saltwater endeavor, at least it will save you some heartbreak and frustration when/if your stuff dies inexplicably.

 
top dog - I don't know if it's been mentioned but please try to remember if you treated that tank with any chemicals while it was a freshwater tank. Many medicines and chemical treatments used for freshwater use copper and other metals that leach into the glass or acrylic and will be toxic to saltwater life, especially corals and shrimp. I don't know if there is a solution to your issue, but talk to the LFS you go to and see what they think about it. If this leads to you aborting the saltwater endeavor, at least it will save you some heartbreak and frustration when/if your stuff dies inexplicably.
AgreeMost of what I have read recommends not converting salt to fresh and vise versa. The link I posted does have some discussion from people who have done it successfully.One of the biggest problems is that all the equipment other than the tank is different and saltwater lights especially for corals are very $$$$
 
Question for some of you knowledgeable plant guys. I've got a 10 gallon tank that has been empty for about 5 months now. Had a few little fish in it previously but they kept dieing.

I want to have this tank heavily planted... filled right up.

Questions:

1) I have sand as a substrate in it. Is there something better that I should be using? Is there a soil mixture that holds nutrients better?

2) What type of lights will I need?

3) The canopy has couple large gaps in it and water evaporates pretty quick. Will this be a problem? Should I cover them up?

4) The filter I am using is recommend for a 20 gallon tank. Will this be too much?

5) Is CO2 necessary or just fertilizer?

6) Should I worry about what was killing the fish previously? Filter has been running all the while it has been empty.

Sorry for so many questions... when I go to any tank forums all the pros there talk waaaay to complicated. I've been keeping tanks all my life but never with live plants... well not with live plants that ever lived. Thanks!

 
TLEF316 said:
no deaths over the weekend (most of the fish are doing fine) The Corys are still very sluggish and a few are not eating. the clown loaches are hiding alot more due to the death or their more outgoing friend (my Red tailed black shark)Eveyone else looks good though and the tank water is crystal clear (using activated carbon in the tank for the first time)
Don't fret about the clown loaches. They are one fish that take forever to feel comfortable in a tank. It could take months for them to finally start coming out. I had two that never grew. Had them 5 years I think they grew less than a half inch. Now they are about 11 years old and have doubled in size the the last 6 years.
 

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