Sweatpants
Footballguy
1 inch in 2 months. Pointless even planting new grass at this point.
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I just realized I forgot to put down fall fertilizer, as I was pretty busy this fall. Snow just melted and temps warmed a bit this week, but I'm guessing it's way too late. Right?
Yes.I guess it depends on where you live. I don't use Scotts (try lesco if you can get it) but I think the spring has a pre emergent herbicide that essentially prevents anything new from spawning up, this includes weeds, but also new grass seeds. The best time to overseed is the fall because you dont have to worry about weeds. I would definitely rake up the dead stuff, make sure you mulch mow and throw down some milorganite. You might also want to apply some lime in the spring. If you are in the northeast, I dont know how you plan on getting Scotts down in 3 weeks. My back yard has a good 3 feet of snow piled up.OK, lawn care experts. The last several years I've had some ugly weeds in the back, I think from laying down the wrong kind of straw. So last fall I just dumped roundup all over it, then had the lawn aerated and over-seeded. Recently we decided to put our house on the market (Brilliant!). So now my backyard looks like crap. I know there are no instant fixes, but what can I do to make it look a little better? Do I rake up the dead, yellow weeds? Or does that disturb any grass that may come through from the fall over seeding? Do I over seed again now? If so, I can't do the early spring Scotts treatment in a couple of weeks, right?Any ideas appreciated. Thanks!
Thanks. And good point, I'm in Charlotte. No snow here.I guess it depends on where you live. I don't use Scotts (try lesco if you can get it) but I think the spring has a pre emergent herbicide that essentially prevents anything new from spawning up, this includes weeds, but also new grass seeds. The best time to overseed is the fall because you dont have to worry about weeds. I would definitely rake up the dead stuff, make sure you mulch mow and throw down some milorganite. You might also want to apply some lime in the spring. If you are in the northeast, I dont know how you plan on getting Scotts down in 3 weeks. My back yard has a good 3 feet of snow piled up.OK, lawn care experts. The last several years I've had some ugly weeds in the back, I think from laying down the wrong kind of straw. So last fall I just dumped roundup all over it, then had the lawn aerated and over-seeded. Recently we decided to put our house on the market (Brilliant!). So now my backyard looks like crap. I know there are no instant fixes, but what can I do to make it look a little better? Do I rake up the dead, yellow weeds? Or does that disturb any grass that may come through from the fall over seeding? Do I over seed again now? If so, I can't do the early spring Scotts treatment in a couple of weeks, right?Any ideas appreciated. Thanks!
What's going to take hold from the fall has already sprouted in your yard. You can put more seed down. You won't be able to use the crabgrass preventer though. You can put down starter fert when you overseed though. If it were me, I'd rake up all the crap, seed and put down some starter fert. I wouldn't be concerned about straw or ground covering. I assume there is SOME grass back there...that should be enough to keep it protected. Just have to make sure you water a few times a day until germination.OK, lawn care experts. The last several years I've had some ugly weeds in the back, I think from laying down the wrong kind of straw. So last fall I just dumped roundup all over it, then had the lawn aerated and over-seeded. Recently we decided to put our house on the market (Brilliant!). So now my backyard looks like crap. I know there are no instant fixes, but what can I do to make it look a little better? Do I rake up the dead, yellow weeds? Or does that disturb any grass that may come through from the fall over seeding? Do I over seed again now? If so, I can't do the early spring Scotts treatment in a couple of weeks, right?Any ideas appreciated. Thanks!
OK, thanks.What's going to take hold from the fall has already sprouted in your yard. You can put more seed down. You won't be able to use the crabgrass preventer though. You can put down starter fert when you overseed though. If it were me, I'd rake up all the crap, seed and put down some starter fert. I wouldn't be concerned about straw or ground covering. I assume there is SOME grass back there...that should be enough to keep it protected. Just have to make sure you water a few times a day until germination.OK, lawn care experts. The last several years I've had some ugly weeds in the back, I think from laying down the wrong kind of straw. So last fall I just dumped roundup all over it, then had the lawn aerated and over-seeded. Recently we decided to put our house on the market (Brilliant!). So now my backyard looks like crap. I know there are no instant fixes, but what can I do to make it look a little better? Do I rake up the dead, yellow weeds? Or does that disturb any grass that may come through from the fall over seeding? Do I over seed again now? If so, I can't do the early spring Scotts treatment in a couple of weeks, right?Any ideas appreciated. Thanks!
really nothing unless you intend to kill them.I too have a ton of squirrels but I try and look the other way and pretend they are aerating the lawn'ConstruxBoy said:OK, so my lawn is on the way to recovery except for one thing: All the little squirrel burrows in it where the planted or are still planting their ####### nuts. What can I do to help prevent the squirrels from digging up my lawn?

set up some plates of milk to attract the neighborhood stray cats. the cats should keep the squirrels away, right?'ConstruxBoy said:OK, so my lawn is on the way to recovery except for one thing: All the little squirrel burrows in it where the planted or are still planting their ####### nuts. What can I do to help prevent the squirrels from digging up my lawn?
Yea because what could go wrong with feeding stray catsset up some plates of milk to attract the neighborhood stray cats. the cats should keep the squirrels away, right?'ConstruxBoy said:OK, so my lawn is on the way to recovery except for one thing: All the little squirrel burrows in it where the planted or are still planting their ####### nuts. What can I do to help prevent the squirrels from digging up my lawn?
$20 BB gun, have at it.The first part of the first post in this thread discusses this issue.I listed a bush for the NE area, but perhaps there is a similar one to use as a guide for your area of the country.In general, do not let the weather tell you when to apply, let nature tell you when to apply.With the fluctuating temperatures (here in SE PA has gone below freezing past few days an only to 40s likely this week), is it still good time to put down fertilizer/crab grass preventer. I have some flowere starting to bloom, but that was when we had warm spell. Just put it down or continue to wait?
If you're putting down organic fertilizer (slow-release), you can go ahead and put it down whenever. If you're putting down inorganic fertilizer (quick-release), you want to put it down when the grass starts its growth. Fertilize too early and it will just get leeched away by spring rains before the grass plants can use it.With the fluctuating temperatures (here in SE PA has gone below freezing past few days an only to 40s likely this week), is it still good time to put down fertilizer/crab grass preventer. I have some flowere starting to bloom, but that was when we had warm spell. Just put it down or continue to wait?
Ironite and Milorganite work great. Very little burn potential and you can put it out anytime.Anyone ever used Ironite to green up the lawn?
You can't do crab grass treatment until after the seed has germinated. All the "stuff" you are doing right now should be done in the fall, however it can still work now. It will just take more time and attention. Once you put the seed down, you'll need to keep the seed wet for two weeks. Is it completely bare where you are seeding? If so, get some pine straw to throw down over the seed to help with moisture. If you get the straw make sure you rake it up after it germinates. In my yard I watered 3-4 times a day just to keep the top layer moist.I'm determined to get my lawn in order this year. Just thatched and aerated and about to put seed down. But then what? Should I water right after I get the seed down? Should I use something to work the seed down into the soil a bit? When should I add fertilizer/crab grass treatment?
This is no longer the caseAll companies now sell starter fertilizer with crab grass preventative built in.'The Commish said:You can't do crab grass treatment until after the seed has germinated.'gonzobill5 said:I'm determined to get my lawn in order this year. Just thatched and aerated and about to put seed down. But then what? Should I water right after I get the seed down? Should I use something to work the seed down into the soil a bit? When should I add fertilizer/crab grass treatment?
1) Lossen top 2-3 inches of soil2) Add seed3) Back rake seed into soil (turn rake over and drag across soil)4) Since you are seeding in spring look for starter fertilizer with crab grass preventative and add immediately5) Keep soil moist but do not drench soil. 6) Hope for warmth and sun7). After grass grows to maybe 4-5 inches gently mow it to a height of 3 and never lower8) 5-6 weeks after first cut add normal fertilizer'gonzobill5 said:I'm determined to get my lawn in order this year. Just thatched and aerated and about to put seed down. But then what? Should I water right after I get the seed down? Should I use something to work the seed down into the soil a bit? When should I add fertilizer/crab grass treatment?
Good to know. I guess they have moved away from attacking via the pre-emergent angle?This is no longer the caseAll companies now sell starter fertilizer with crab grass preventative built in.'The Commish said:You can't do crab grass treatment until after the seed has germinated.'gonzobill5 said:I'm determined to get my lawn in order this year. Just thatched and aerated and about to put seed down. But then what? Should I water right after I get the seed down? Should I use something to work the seed down into the soil a bit? When should I add fertilizer/crab grass treatment?
I am not sure how they did it to be honest. I think they developed the ability to target crab grass instead of all pre emergent growth which allows the seeds to grow. I will let you know this works as I will be reseeding some areas that are in a crab grass area of my lawn.Good to know. I guess they have moved away from attacking via the pre-emergent angle?This is no longer the caseAll companies now sell starter fertilizer with crab grass preventative built in.'The Commish said:You can't do crab grass treatment until after the seed has germinated.'gonzobill5 said:I'm determined to get my lawn in order this year. Just thatched and aerated and about to put seed down. But then what? Should I water right after I get the seed down? Should I use something to work the seed down into the soil a bit? When should I add fertilizer/crab grass treatment?
I'm doing the organic route at the moment, but I am not getting the results I'd like. Everything looks ok, but there are some spots that are less ok than others. Things have definitely taken a bit longer to green up for me than normal.I am not sure how they did it to be honest. I think they developed the ability to target crab grass instead of all pre emergent growth which allows the seeds to grow. I will let you know this works as I will be reseeding some areas that are in a crab grass area of my lawn.Good to know. I guess they have moved away from attacking via the pre-emergent angle?This is no longer the caseAll companies now sell starter fertilizer with crab grass preventative built in.'The Commish said:You can't do crab grass treatment until after the seed has germinated.'gonzobill5 said:I'm determined to get my lawn in order this year. Just thatched and aerated and about to put seed down. But then what? Should I water right after I get the seed down? Should I use something to work the seed down into the soil a bit? When should I add fertilizer/crab grass treatment?
)Could we get a link to this?Pre-emegent herbicides (with the exception of Tupersan) work to suppress all seedlings. I would be very concerned to know exactly the name of the herbicide used in the fertilizer formulation before I spent a great deal of time preparing to seed and then make that application.This is no longer the case'The Commish said:You can't do crab grass treatment until after the seed has germinated.'gonzobill5 said:I'm determined to get my lawn in order this year. Just thatched and aerated and about to put seed down. But then what? Should I water right after I get the seed down? Should I use something to work the seed down into the soil a bit? When should I add fertilizer/crab grass treatment?
All companies now sell starter fertilizer with crab grass preventative built in.
That's my understanding.Starter and the crabgrasser preventer that's in starter isn't the same as a product like Scott's Turfbuilder with HaltsCould we get a link to this?Pre-emegent herbicides (with the exception of Tupersan) work to suppress all seedlings. I would be very concerned to know exactly the name of the herbicide used in the fertilizer formulation before I spent a great deal of time preparing to seed and then make that application.This is no longer the case'The Commish said:You can't do crab grass treatment until after the seed has germinated.'gonzobill5 said:I'm determined to get my lawn in order this year. Just thatched and aerated and about to put seed down. But then what? Should I water right after I get the seed down? Should I use something to work the seed down into the soil a bit? When should I add fertilizer/crab grass treatment?
All companies now sell starter fertilizer with crab grass preventative built in.
Is your lawn area where the moss is encroaching shady? Moss shouldn't stand a chance against healthy grass in the sun. It likes shade, low pH, rather low fertility, and high moisture - pretty much the opposite of what most grass likes.I take care of my yard..but my neighbor has let his become a mess of weeds and now moss, which is creeping in on my yard. Whats the best thing I can do to combat this moss ??
Scotts Turfbuilder with Halts is fertilizer with Pendimathalin. Pendamethalin is one of the most widely used pre-emergent herbicides used in commercial and residential settings. There are many fertilizer/herbicide combo's that work well to prevent crabgrass and a variety of other weeds. I don't think that it's a good idea to try to reseed a lawn and then apply a fertilizer with a pre emergent herbicide that is designed to kill seedlings. :shuked:That's my understanding.Starter and the crabgrasser preventer that's in starter isn't the same as a product like Scott's Turfbuilder with HaltsCould we get a link to this?Pre-emegent herbicides (with the exception of Tupersan) work to suppress all seedlings. I would be very concerned to know exactly the name of the herbicide used in the fertilizer formulation before I spent a great deal of time preparing to seed and then make that application.This is no longer the case'The Commish said:You can't do crab grass treatment until after the seed has germinated.'gonzobill5 said:I'm determined to get my lawn in order this year. Just thatched and aerated and about to put seed down. But then what? Should I water right after I get the seed down? Should I use something to work the seed down into the soil a bit? When should I add fertilizer/crab grass treatment?
All companies now sell starter fertilizer with crab grass preventative built in.
I am in agreeance :shukedsquared:Scotts Turfbuilder with Halts is fertilizer with Pendimathalin. Pendamethalin is one of the most widely used pre-emergent herbicides used in commercial and residential settings. There are many fertilizer/herbicide combo's that work well to prevent crabgrass and a variety of other weeds. I don't think that it's a good idea to try to reseed a lawn and then apply a fertilizer with a pre emergent herbicide that is designed to kill seedlings. :shuked:That's my understanding.Starter and the crabgrasser preventer that's in starter isn't the same as a product like Scott's Turfbuilder with HaltsCould we get a link to this?Pre-emegent herbicides (with the exception of Tupersan) work to suppress all seedlings. I would be very concerned to know exactly the name of the herbicide used in the fertilizer formulation before I spent a great deal of time preparing to seed and then make that application.This is no longer the case'The Commish said:You can't do crab grass treatment until after the seed has germinated.'gonzobill5 said:I'm determined to get my lawn in order this year. Just thatched and aerated and about to put seed down. But then what? Should I water right after I get the seed down? Should I use something to work the seed down into the soil a bit? When should I add fertilizer/crab grass treatment?
All companies now sell starter fertilizer with crab grass preventative built in.
I agree, the product I was referring to does not have halts. It does however advertise itself as a crab grass preventativehttp://www.scotts.com/smg/catalog/productTemplate.jsp?proId=prod100048&itemId=cat70008I am in agreeance :shukedsquared:Scotts Turfbuilder with Halts is fertilizer with Pendimathalin. Pendamethalin is one of the most widely used pre-emergent herbicides used in commercial and residential settings. There are many fertilizer/herbicide combo's that work well to prevent crabgrass and a variety of other weeds. I don't think that it's a good idea to try to reseed a lawn and then apply a fertilizer with a pre emergent herbicide that is designed to kill seedlings. :shuked:That's my understanding.Starter and the crabgrasser preventer that's in starter isn't the same as a product like Scott's Turfbuilder with HaltsCould we get a link to this?Pre-emegent herbicides (with the exception of Tupersan) work to suppress all seedlings. I would be very concerned to know exactly the name of the herbicide used in the fertilizer formulation before I spent a great deal of time preparing to seed and then make that application.This is no longer the case'The Commish said:You can't do crab grass treatment until after the seed has germinated.'gonzobill5 said:I'm determined to get my lawn in order this year. Just thatched and aerated and about to put seed down. But then what? Should I water right after I get the seed down? Should I use something to work the seed down into the soil a bit? When should I add fertilizer/crab grass treatment?
All companies now sell starter fertilizer with crab grass preventative built in.
) problem to being with and want to seed.Yeah that's what I am going to do. Since I don't want to wait for the fall to seed this year I am going to try it. I bet it is no where nar as good as halts but then I also bet it is much better than not doing it. I will then go back to halts next spring and just deal with what ever crabgrass comes up this year the old fashioned way.maybe that's the play for what I want to do then, get the non-halts stuff since I don't have a huge crabgrass (yet) problem to being with and want to seed.
Ortho has a good combo in their weed-be-gone now....I have a spray canister that I stir up a batch once a year. IF I get signs of crabgrass, I use the spray and it takes care of it. Granted we are only on .4 of an acre and a good part of that is a "natural area" hill, but it's not tough to maintain. I say total I have to patrol about .25 acres. Prior to this treatment, I'd have to dig it out because anything that killed crabgrass killed grass.Yeah that's what I am going to do. Since I don't want to wait for the fall to seed this year I am going to try it. I bet it is no where nar as good as halts but then I also bet it is much better than not doing it. I will then go back to halts next spring and just deal with what ever crabgrass comes up this year the old fashioned way.maybe that's the play for what I want to do then, get the non-halts stuff since I don't have a huge crabgrass (yet) problem to being with and want to seed.
Intersting. Looking at the product details, there is no listing of the active ingredient aside from the fertilizer analysis. Curious as to what it contains. Looks like Scotts is having some troubles with the EPA for perhaps this sort of thing linkIf it was me, I would seed in your lawn ASAP and fertilize without the use of a pre emergent. Take Newly Retired's advice above but spoon feed in the fertilizer a little more frequently. The best way to prevent crab is to develop turf that outcompetes weeds. Good Luck!!I agree, the product I was referring to does not have halts. It does however advertise itself as a crab grass preventativehttp://www.scotts.com/smg/catalog/productTemplate.jsp?proId=prod100048&itemId=cat70008I am in agreeance :shukedsquared:Scotts Turfbuilder with Halts is fertilizer with Pendimathalin. Pendamethalin is one of the most widely used pre-emergent herbicides used in commercial and residential settings. There are many fertilizer/herbicide combo's that work well to prevent crabgrass and a variety of other weeds. I don't think that it's a good idea to try to reseed a lawn and then apply a fertilizer with a pre emergent herbicide that is designed to kill seedlings. :shuked:That's my understanding.Starter and the crabgrasser preventer that's in starter isn't the same as a product like Scott's Turfbuilder with HaltsCould we get a link to this?Pre-emegent herbicides (with the exception of Tupersan) work to suppress all seedlings. I would be very concerned to know exactly the name of the herbicide used in the fertilizer formulation before I spent a great deal of time preparing to seed and then make that application.This is no longer the case'The Commish said:You can't do crab grass treatment until after the seed has germinated.'gonzobill5 said:I'm determined to get my lawn in order this year. Just thatched and aerated and about to put seed down. But then what? Should I water right after I get the seed down? Should I use something to work the seed down into the soil a bit? When should I add fertilizer/crab grass treatment?
All companies now sell starter fertilizer with crab grass preventative built in.
Its in an area that gets mostly shade..maybe 2-3 hours of light sun... between houses. Would Lime help kill it?Is your lawn area where the moss is encroaching shady? Moss shouldn't stand a chance against healthy grass in the sun. It likes shade, low pH, rather low fertility, and high moisture - pretty much the opposite of what most grass likes.I take care of my yard..but my neighbor has let his become a mess of weeds and now moss, which is creeping in on my yard. Whats the best thing I can do to combat this moss ??
Before applying any lime you should pH test the soil, but I'd guess it's more about the lack of sun. Do things to make the grass happier in that spot - basically follow the steps in the OP. And maybe overseed or reseed with a shade tolerant blend of grass seeds if the grass gets patchy or if you have to pull up some moss and expose the dirt.Its in an area that gets mostly shade..maybe 2-3 hours of light sun... between houses. Would Lime help kill it?Is your lawn area where the moss is encroaching shady? Moss shouldn't stand a chance against healthy grass in the sun. It likes shade, low pH, rather low fertility, and high moisture - pretty much the opposite of what most grass likes.I take care of my yard..but my neighbor has let his become a mess of weeds and now moss, which is creeping in on my yard. Whats the best thing I can do to combat this moss ??
Just get the concentrate Ortho or Bayer product that is "weed killer for lawns" and get yourself a 1 or 2 gallon pump sprayer. Spot treat weeds every couple weeks.I will fully admit that I'm a lawncare noobie and this fall/winter has shown that to be true. This past weekend I finally was able to make it out and pull up a good majority of the weeds/trees that rooted themselves in our back yard. The front yard was taken care of last weekend. I threw down some "all natural" stuff a garden guy at our local Home Depot swore by but the stuff in the front just came back with a fury. Last year I got some of the weed killer stuff that is screwed onto a hose and sprayed over the yard, but it did a good job of browning up the grass as it did of killing any of the weeds.I feel like I'm kind of stuck now and uncertain of what to do. If I use a weed killer, it seems to kill the grass. If I use the natural stuff recommended, it doesn't seem to do anything. We live in Texas and have bermuda grass. Any thoughts? If it makes a difference we have a sprinkler system and it currently runs twice a week.