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Bermudagrass Maintenance
What a rip-off.
Absolutely big differences. First number=Nitrogen, 2nd=Phosphorous, 3rd=Potassium. Its a good idea to look closer at the analysis and see what type, in particular, the source of Nitrogen is. Amonium Nitrate and Amonium Sulfate will break down quicker and become more available to the turf (soil temperature dependant)whereas Urea and IBDU take longer but will also last longer. I like to apply 21-0-0 at .5(actual N) lb. per 1000 square feet in April/May/June and mix in 10-10-10 or some type of even analysis somewhere in between those 3 application. July/August/Sept apply 46-0-0 at 1(actual N) lb. per 1000 rates. Always water those products in but never overwater. Overseeding is a whole nuther animal that we can discuss closer to the fall.
Are you not doing the Organic Plant Health program anymore GB?
The dude knocked on the door, and I was curious. Like I said, my neighbors yard looks great, and i've never seen him working on it, and I wanted to know what he was spending on it. During the hard sell, he was asking me questions I didn't know, and is causing me to research a bit. Right now, i'm trying to reconsile OPH vs. Clemson extension suggestions.
Are you happy with your results thus far? For me, I'm kinda "meh". Things get right, but it takes them a week or two longer than everyone else. Not a huge deal, but I have decided to use only their lawn products. I have found their sprays for detatching, bugs etc really don't work that well. I wasted a lot of money on that stuff last year.
That's kind of where I am. I feel like I have a better handle on how to manage this lawn now than I did a couple of years ago, and I'm revisiting everything. The OPH schedule has me putting down some 3-4-2 fertilizer in February and some stuff in October for hibernation...the tru-green guy said that all you are doing with that is feeding the weeds, which I suppose makes sense. I never did get around to that Feb treatment, but looking at it, if I do it now in ocnjunction with their pre-emergent, I'll get the balanced application now that Clemson extensionsuggests.I do like their spot-treatment stuff better than anything from lowes. It's more expensive, but the trimec southern or quincept both seem pretty effective.
Thanks for all the help. I ended up skipping the crabgrass treatment because everyone I asked said you had to wait. There is a bit of crabgrass out there, but the new seed came up great and everything is nice and green, so I'm happy. There are a few spots in the back where no seed came up. The soil in these spots is very hard (clay like). Do you just recommend adding some topsoil/more seed or is there a better option?
Sounds like something you could do yourself for about $150 and a Saturday.
Pretend I have a full time job, 2 kids, a wife about to pop out twins, no time to spare, and no interest in doing it myself. How much is reasonable for the above? TIA.
I hear ya. Doesn't sound like a days work for 3 guys. I didn't lay a weed barrier, but I weeded and mulched about twice that amount on Sunday in about 4 hours.
bump
The mulch (depending on what you get) around here will cost about $32-$35 a yard. The rest is hard to answer, but for me, I don't think the labor for the things you listed above is worth $700-$800ETA: And don't waste your time with a weed barrier. They are a PITA more than they help. If you mulch correctly, you'll be fine. As a matter of fact, I spent this spring taking out barriers that I had put in last spring. The weeds were just growing under the barrier along the ground until they found sunlight
Sounds high, but it's probably hard to gauge just how bad the weeds are.Are they supplying/delivering the mulch? Think $25/yd plus delivery.
You don't need to weed it. Just dig it out and rake. They were going to dig out if they are putting a barrier down.Worst case for you is rake/dig enough to get weeds and top layer of mulch off. PREEN the crap out of it and then put new mulch down.I out down 3-5 yards every other year. I did put rubber mulch down with barrier on the side of my house to not have to do it as often. The front I now just buy bags. I don't put dwon a full 4-6" anymore just a couple inches of a coating
If I were you, i'd rent one of those stand behind dingos for a day unless you want the workout. Around here they are about $100-$200 a day. You'd easily have it done in a day.My yard is dead.
If it is all dead can't you put the fabric right over the grass instead of digging it up?My yard is dead.
I tried that last year (not the Penningtons brand though). I also might not have used enough topsoil. Someone mentioned trying to add some gypsum to the soil to loosen it up a bit. Someone else said adding some sand might do the trick. The problem is this part of the yard is in full sun, and for whatever reason the soil is very clay like. Even if I churn it up with a roto-tiller or aerate, as soon as it rains the soil molds back together. I'm considering bringing in 8-10 yards of top soil and trying again. I'm wondering if I can get by with less if I add something to the current soil and churn it up.
Too much sand will cause the hardening effect also BUTMake a 50-50 mix of topsoil and sand for best results if you have a clayish soil
I want to tear it up so I can get some depth. The lawn is even with the sidewalk, so even with edging installed, I don't want rocks spilling out on the sidewalk. It is dead enough that my wife was just pulling the rolls up with her hands without even trying and that is where I got the thought about the clay being the problem. It is like walking on cement once the sod roll is pulled up.I looked into renting a little bobcat, but it was like $80 a day and it almost seems like overkill for such a small area. Plus I am not exactly what you would call a "handyman", and I am guessing I would find a way to roll that thing over or hurt myself in some fashion with it. You know it is a bad sign when I proclaim I am going to do a home improvement project and the kids run and grab the video camera. :(If it is all dead can't you put the fabric right over the grass instead of digging it up?My yard is dead.
Make sure your house is well graded. With this impermeable setup (thick black plastic covered by rocks) you are going to have a lot of runoff when it rains, hopefully into the street/storm gutter and not into your foundation.If you really don't want grass, another alternative would be to amend your soil with compost and other organic materials (leaves leftover from last year are great) and then plant a well-mulched perennial bed. Depending on your location these could include some edibles. It would still be work but easier on the back than hauling 11 tons of rocks, and also less runoff. And it would still require less maintenance than grass.My yard is dead.
I agree. $250/day each for 3 guys to do general/unskilled labor is pretty high. I would get a second quote.The mulch (depending on what you get) around here will cost about $32-$35 a yard. The rest is hard to answer, but for me, I don't think the labor for the things you listed above is worth $700-$800ETA: And don't waste your time with a weed barrier. They are a PITA more than they help. If you mulch correctly, you'll be fine. As a matter of fact, I spent this spring taking out barriers that I had put in last spring. The weeds were just growing under the barrier along the ground until they found sunlight
I want to tear it up so I can get some depth. The lawn is even with the sidewalk, so even with edging installed, I don't want rocks spilling out on the sidewalk. It is dead enough that my wife was just pulling the rolls up with her hands without even trying and that is where I got the thought about the clay being the problem. It is like walking on cement once the sod roll is pulled up.I looked into renting a little bobcat, but it was like $80 a day and it almost seems like overkill for such a small area. Plus I am not exactly what you would call a "handyman", and I am guessing I would find a way to roll that thing over or hurt myself in some fashion with it.If it is all dead can't you put the fabric right over the grass instead of digging it up?My yard is dead.
I do the same thing every year and I always have a beautiful front yard. This year, my yard looks like a hayfield. I know this was a pretty dry winter, but I did water now and again. The problem also was this year was easily one of the windiest years on record, so I think that contributed to the dryness.
I am also wondering if the soil just turned bad. I ripped up a couple of small sections and two inches down it is solid clay--hard as a rock clay.
So I give up!! I am tearing it out and installing rock. Luckily I have a small yard (850 sq feet) and I am only going to need 11 tons of rock. I am going to use the heavier gauge black plastic vs fabric as the fabric seems to come in 4x100 rolls while the plastic comes in 10x100 rolls--I am thinking the less seams in the material will equal less chances for weeds to come through. I know the plastic tends to biodegrade quicker, but I am planning on 3 inches of rock cover. Anyone have any hints on what to avoid/what to do? Any thoughts on how long it should take me to shovel all this myself?
You know it is a bad sign when I proclaim I am going to do a home improvement project and the kids run and grab the video camera. :(
You can do it!
I am going to xeriscape this sucker in. This will save big $$ for us as they are planning on a 8 to 12% price increase on water bills in my neighborhood each year until 2015.Just got back from the rock place. $375.00 for rock. $70 for edging. $50 for the plastic. Going to edge out a big oval right in the middle that I am going to use border stones (still have to price these) to create a raised flower bed that I will fill in with top soil and plant some colorful low water flowers and plants--I still have to figure out how to do a drip line.This project should pay for itself in two-three years. I feel empowered....I am not going to screw this up. I am not going to screw this up.(However, I will probably find a way to screw this up 
)
I use Bayer concentrate with a 2 gallon pump sprayer.Way more efficient than both the granular and stuff you attach to your hose. Also, I don't like attaching to the hose and spraying the whole yard. I know it's safe for lawns, but I don't want chemicals on my good areas of lawn that don't need it.The concentrate is more cost effective, too. You'll save $15 on your second Scotts application if you use regular old Turf Builder instead of the Turf Builder with weed control. Use that money to buy your concentrate. 1 bottle typically lasts me a few years, because I don't have that many weeds.
Oh, I see. Use the granular fertilizer and "spot shot" the weeds. Thanks!
This thread is for real men who do their own lawn care. Thanks.
I'd suggest getting your soil tested at one of your local extension offices. they can give you a full report of your soil. The more balanced and nutrient rich your soil, the easier it will be for grass to grow. It is one of the most important steps to growing grass and it is often ignored.
Probably "dimethylamine," not "pimethylamine." Also, it's probably "proprionic" not "propioni." I have no idea what "dicurba" is. These sound like weird trade names, like what you read off of a bottle of shampoo. IUPAC would have a heart attack, as would any real chemist.Basically, you're pumping a bunch of nitrogen into your soil.The ingredients are something of a chemist dream, aka Greek to meimethylamine salt of dichloro-phenoxyacetic acidPimethylamine salt of propioni acidPimethylamine salt of dicurbaWhatever it is.. IT WORKS GREAT!!!
Funny you mention renting a dingo. I just happen to know of this place that might have the very thing you need to complete your task in a timely, efficient, cost effective manner. Just saying. . .If I were you, i'd rent one of those stand behind dingos for a day unless you want the workout. Around here they are about $100-$200 a day. You'd easily have it done in a day.My yard is dead.
I do the same thing every year and I always have a beautiful front yard. This year, my yard looks like a hayfield. I know this was a pretty dry winter, but I did water now and again. The problem also was this year was easily one of the windiest years on record, so I think that contributed to the dryness.
I am also wondering if the soil just turned bad. I ripped up a couple of small sections and two inches down it is solid clay--hard as a rock clay.
So I give up!! I am tearing it out and installing rock. Luckily I have a small yard (850 sq feet) and I am only going to need 11 tons of rock. I am going to use the heavier gauge black plastic vs fabric as the fabric seems to come in 4x100 rolls while the plastic comes in 10x100 rolls--I am thinking the less seams in the material will equal less chances for weeds to come through. I know the plastic tends to biodegrade quicker, but I am planning on 3 inches of rock cover. Anyone have any hints on what to avoid/what to do? Any thoughts on how long it should take me to shovel all this myself?
The time is NOW!!!Well not tonight but certainly this weekend. In fact, get another bag and put it down again in two weeks. While your at it, grab a bag of 15-15-15, split it in half and apply that over the next month as well. This is the time of year to establish roots and turf density before it starts to get too hot.
I use them all the timeFunny you mention renting a dingo. I just happen to know of this place that might have the very thing you need to complete your task in a timely, efficient, cost effective manner. Just saying. . .If I were you, i'd rent one of those stand behind dingos for a day unless you want the workout. Around here they are about $100-$200 a day. You'd easily have it done in a day.My yard is dead.
I do the same thing every year and I always have a beautiful front yard. This year, my yard looks like a hayfield. I know this was a pretty dry winter, but I did water now and again. The problem also was this year was easily one of the windiest years on record, so I think that contributed to the dryness.
I am also wondering if the soil just turned bad. I ripped up a couple of small sections and two inches down it is solid clay--hard as a rock clay.
So I give up!! I am tearing it out and installing rock. Luckily I have a small yard (850 sq feet) and I am only going to need 11 tons of rock. I am going to use the heavier gauge black plastic vs fabric as the fabric seems to come in 4x100 rolls while the plastic comes in 10x100 rolls--I am thinking the less seams in the material will equal less chances for weeds to come through. I know the plastic tends to biodegrade quicker, but I am planning on 3 inches of rock cover. Anyone have any hints on what to avoid/what to do? Any thoughts on how long it should take me to shovel all this myself?
Never had a problem with rentals from them. Only problem is, the one in Rock Hill closed Now i have to to go Westinghouse.
