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Lawn Care Tips (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter andy_b
- Start date
Bill Brasky
Footballguy
I have some small weeds in the cracks of my paver patio that have been sprouting up. it's not an issue coming from underneath, but just in the dirt in the cracks. I plan to powerwash the cracks to clear out the debris and then apply some polymers sand to seal the cracks a bit.
do you think this is a good strategy?
if so, anyone recommend a brand/type of sand to go for?
do you think this is a good strategy?
if so, anyone recommend a brand/type of sand to go for?
Sheriff66
Footballguy
My Dad has this one BB, he likes it a lot, but he has over an acre...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/ECHO-65dB-A-191-mph-354-CFM-Low-Noise-Gas-Blower-PB-255LN/204200939
NewlyRetired
Footballguy
I posted this earlier. I love it
http://www.homedepot.com/p/ECHO-195-mph-465-CFM-Gas-Backpack-Blower-PB-500T/202597594#.UbuAbZwQOQY
Bill Brasky
Footballguy
I had to patch a bunch of dog and winter kill spots this spring and FWIW I think the Schultz CertainSeed with mulch/seed/fertilizer works great. filled in really nice.
Dought Man
Footballguy
Best way to get rid of clover patches taking over an otherwise healthy green lawn?
beer 302
Footballguy
Get a backpack blower Commish. We rent Husqvarna 356BT and Stihl BR420. Guessing if they hold up for us, they will work for you.
NewlyRetired
Footballguy
The Bayer product linked earlier obliterates them. I cleaned up a ton of my front yard which had clovers. Look back a page or two you should see it.
It is called Bayer All in One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer
Mohawk
Footballguy
The Commish
Footballguy
The Commish
Footballguy
I was hoping not to have to take out a second mortgage, but I just came in from mowing the grass for the first time. I don't think my poor little mower's gonna make it. I think I need a larger mower as well :(
beer 302
Footballguy
Just got a quote for a Kubota with a 60" deck, $15k. Shoot the lock off the wallet Mr. Moneybags, we're talking about cool guy stuff here. You can't put a price tag on that
The Commish
Footballguy
HFS....did you get the contract to mow BOA stadium or something? That's three passes on my lawn AT MOST! I'd then need a new barn to store it in 
Pick
Footballguy
OK so on one side of the house we are putting in concrete. This will give more parking for kids and better parking for visitors. We are leaving a little corner on that side landscaped.
The issue is the other side of the house. The fence goes from the front corner of the house out to the property line. So there is this strip of land out there that no one sees. Currently, it is landscaped like everything else. But there is really no use for this part of the yard and no one sees it. Rock landscape there? Other options?
The issue is the other side of the house. The fence goes from the front corner of the house out to the property line. So there is this strip of land out there that no one sees. Currently, it is landscaped like everything else. But there is really no use for this part of the yard and no one sees it. Rock landscape there? Other options?
NutterButter
Footballguy
I'm all ears. What natural methods do you know that work? I'm all for natural methods that won't damage the environment and I have no problem with additional cost, but they have to work.
NewlyRetired
Footballguy
there is no "natural" way to remove clover from grass using a natural product. If you want to be totally green, you need to pretty much kill the area of any vegetation since clover it near impossible to remove as weed using normal hand weed pulling methods if it is in any way ingrained in your lawn.
If you don't want to start from scratch and be totally green, use the Bayer product I mentioned. One or two apps and the clover is obliterated from the lawn in a couple of weeks.
Note that depending on how strong your clover coverage is, there might be some bare spots in the lawn that will have to be eventually reseeded in the fall.
NutterButter
Footballguy
That's what I normally use but since Mohawk made the suggestion, I would expect he has some practical alternatives. I'm all for going "green" but it has to be practical.
The Commish
Footballguy
I'll throw this anecdotal observation I just made a week or so ago. My wife was trying to get rid of a mildew smell in a wool rug we have. In the process of trying to do so, she used two or three boxes of that Arm & Hammer baking soda carpet freshener. After vacuuming several times, I emptied the canister in the weeds off the back of my property. They are all dead now. Maybe it's the baking soda?? Most likely it's whatever they put in it that makes your house smell like old lady
NewlyRetired
Footballguy
The only natural methods of removing clover I have seen are a sugar water mixture which attacks the roots but has a very low level of success if you are looking for anything relatively immediate to work.
There are other methods to help prevent clover from starting (a corm glutteny meal product), but this does not work very well with established clover.
A lot depends on how bad/mature the clover is. If it is brand new and just in small patches, you might have some luck with organic methods. If it is at all mature and spread in lawn, I don't see you having a lot of success with a full organic method but it can't hurt to try.
NewlyRetired
Footballguy
Did that selectively kill just the weeds and keep the grass unharmed?I'll throw this anecdotal observation I just made a week or so ago. My wife was trying to get rid of a mildew smell in a wool rug we have. In the process of trying to do so, she used two or three boxes of that Arm & Hammer baking soda carpet freshener. After vacuuming several times, I emptied the canister in the weeds off the back of my property. They are all dead now. Maybe it's the baking soda?? Most likely it's whatever they put in it that makes your house smell like old lady
It is not difficult to organically come up with a concoction that can kill vegetation. The real science/chemistry comes if you want to selectively kill the weeds only with out harming the grass.
The Commish
Footballguy
It was all weeds, but it'd probably kill grass too if given a chance.Did that selectively kill just the weeds and keep the grass unharmed?I'll throw this anecdotal observation I just made a week or so ago. My wife was trying to get rid of a mildew smell in a wool rug we have. In the process of trying to do so, she used two or three boxes of that Arm & Hammer baking soda carpet freshener. After vacuuming several times, I emptied the canister in the weeds off the back of my property. They are all dead now. Maybe it's the baking soda?? Most likely it's whatever they put in it that makes your house smell like old lady
It is not difficult to organically come up with a concoction that can kill vegetation. The real science/chemistry comes if you want to selectively kill the weeds only with out harming the grass.
fasteddie_21
2006 NM Poker Champ
So we have a couple of patches in our yard that looks absolutely dead. We've read that it could be due to the super late freeze that we had here in May and it wrecking people's lawns.
That said, is the best thing to just pull up the dead grass, poke holes w/ a screwdriver or whatnot, sprinkle new seed, cover w/ compost and water?
Other suggestions or is this the best course of action?
And if that is it, can I mow it, seeing as I need to mow the lawn and this is in a couple of places in the lawn?
That said, is the best thing to just pull up the dead grass, poke holes w/ a screwdriver or whatnot, sprinkle new seed, cover w/ compost and water?
Other suggestions or is this the best course of action?
And if that is it, can I mow it, seeing as I need to mow the lawn and this is in a couple of places in the lawn?
NewlyRetired
Footballguy
1) kill any and all weeds2) in early fall loosen all soil down to 3 inches deep that you want to reseed. Tamp down areas lightly to make smooth
3) Using a spreader, spread the seed at the rate mentioned on bag
4) Then add starter fertilizer (this will not hurt any mature grass but will help the seeds)
5) Turn your rake over and back rake all the areas such that most of the seeds are now slightly under the earth
6) Keep all areas moist but do not allow puddles to form. Depending on temps, this usually means watering lightly 2-3 times a day
7) Continue to water until grass has fully germinated (it will differ in speed in various parts of lawn)
8) Roughly 5-6 weeks after full germination, use a regular turf builder fertilizer that you use on the mature grass.
Starting the next spring, use your normal fertilization schedule.
Note that you can try and seed now but this is a non optimal time for grass root growth. Grass planted in summer tends to germinate quickly and then eventually die off because the roots have a hard time growing in very hot weather.
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fasteddie_21
2006 NM Poker Champ
I appreciate all that, thank you. A couple more questions:
1) The areas we're talking about are smaller than 2' square, each. Think equal to or smaller than a trashcan lid. Some areas are only 1' across. There are 4 of these areas between the front and rear yards...so sprinkling by hand would be fine, yes?
2) If we don't seed now, just leave it as is and do what you suggested in the fall? Or would it be better to pull up all the dead areas down to the dirt and leave them be? I can't say exactly, but it almost looks like the one area in the front yard is slowly spreading the dead-ness?
Thanks again!
NewlyRetired
Footballguy
1) Yes water by hand is more than good enough. For areas that size, just keep an old fashioned water can full and waddle out a few times a day to make sure it is moist.
2) You can't hurt anything by going out there now and digging it up. If you are afraid there is a disease, take away a few inches of dirt in the affected areas and throw them out some where where you don't care and then replace in the areas either now or in fall with a healthy layer of top soil (for areas that small you can get the top soil in bags at Home Depot type places )
fasteddie_21
2006 NM Poker Champ
Cool. And yeah, the bolded is what we did. I think on Sunday I'll go rip out the dead stuff and some dirt and put down the fresh stuff. Wait til the fall to seed.
Thanks a bunch!
NutterButter
Footballguy
If its just patch areas, I'd recommend covering the final product with peat moss to add in the water retention. Keeping the area wet is the most important part of the process; you're talking around two weeks. Peat moss really helps and just gets incorporated into the soil once the grass comes in.
Pick
Footballguy
1. Pouring cement on the side of the house and putting a gate in. There will be a fence and then a 4-foot gate. Before the whole fence was a gate. I guess the only reason to have the whole thing be a gate is if there is ever major access needed to the backyard. Like a truck or something. Otherwise it looks much nicer and is cheaper to install. Any of you guys ever wish you had that huge gate? Our backyard is done and I don't see any reason for the big gate but would hate to need it later. Only a difference of about $500 but the big thing is without the gate the fence is lower to the concrete which will help with my escapee dogs.
2. Recommendations on the fire pit setup?
2. Recommendations on the fire pit setup?
The Commish
Footballguy
Anyone have an opinion on chainsaws?? Looked around online but wondering if anyone has purchased one as of late, what to look for etc.
TIA
TIA
The Commish
Footballguy
You're obviously doing it wrong.
Keerock
Footballguy
NewlyRetired
Footballguy
NutterButter
Footballguy
Was thinking the same thing myself. Had winterguard left over from last year so I put it down yesterday after mowing up all the leaves. Gave it a quick water to hopefully help get it into the soil before the ground freezes.
shuke
Black Ice Skeptic
Dark Matter
Footballguy
http://lawncare.about.com/od/turfgrasspests/a/snow_mold.htm
What causes snow mold?
Snow mold is caused when there is an extended period of snow cover on ground that is not completely frozen. It can also be brought on by a badly timed fertilizer application which causes a flush of growth too late in the fall. Snow mold can also occur under leaves that have not been cleaned up or amongst long grass that should have been mowed once more before winter set in.
How do I repair snow mold damage?
Fungicides are available for both preventive and curative treatments of snow mold. However, they are not recommended due to the largely superficial and temporary damage snow mold inflicts on the lawn.
Although it can look really nasty in the early spring, most snow mold damage will recover in time. Once the area has dried, the infection will cease and the turf will grow out and renew itself. To speed up the process, the infected area can be lightly raked to encourage drying. Some overseeding may be necessary and if the damage is extremely severe, topdressing can be applied and areas can be repaired like a bare patch.
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NutterButter
Footballguy
Get your aerator going boys. That ground is going to be mighty compact after all that snow.
My yard is almost 100% weeds now...I admittedly haven't taken great care of it, but where I live in southern Arkansas many of the yards are like mine. Not sure if the ground is just bad or what.
Is there any way to fix this without completely killing everything and starting over? I'm ok with it taking a few seasons - my wife won't go for the 'kill it all' method because of the dogs.
Is there any way to fix this without completely killing everything and starting over? I'm ok with it taking a few seasons - my wife won't go for the 'kill it all' method because of the dogs.
lod01
Footballguy
Zoysiagrass. Mine runs over everything and kills everything in it's path. Pretty much indestructible. You just have to cut it. Let it grow long and scalp more than 1/3 the blade and you are screwed.
Since I sodded the front of the house 1/2 way to the road, it has extended over 20 feet and THAT looks like sod now.
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Dark Matter
Footballguy
Are you sure you planted zoysiagrass seed? The best method is to use plugs as zoysia seed is pretty fragile and needs just the right conditions to germinate. If it is zoysia or bermudagrass for that matter, cut it low and hit it with weed and feed throughout the summer. The warm season grass will out compete most of the broadleaf weeds.
Yeah- it was definitely zoysia. Weeds started popping back up within a couple months of seeding- even after I had killed everything in the back yard.
Ill try the weed and feed- any one of them better than the next?
lod01
Footballguy
My cousin grows it in Ohio. It will grow anywhere but it's first to go dormant in fall and last to come back in spring.
Lowe's sells sod now down south. Not sure up there. Sod is the way to go but you need to pour water on it for about a month daily and the multiple days for 2 more months. It's slow to root. Plugs will work but that is really slow. I did plugs once and ended up sodding over it. I now plug with my existing zoysia and cut them about 6inches in diameter.
lod01
Footballguy
Here is zoysia in the fall. I started with one pallet to see what it was like. Then I brought in another 12 or so. http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2wdd7h4&s=8#.Uz8ng0rD9hG
Zoysia vs Bahia 1 - http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=35kquyx&s=8#.Uz8oM0rD9hE
Zoysia vs Bahia 2 - http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2j1k7rm&s=8#.Uz8odUrD9hE
Zoysia vs Bahia 1 - http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=35kquyx&s=8#.Uz8oM0rD9hE
Zoysia vs Bahia 2 - http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2j1k7rm&s=8#.Uz8odUrD9hE
