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Lawn Care Tips (2 Viewers)

Can't get my dog to stop digging up holes. Not sure what I can do.
all joking aside I heard if you bury their poop they will not dig in the area. No clue if it works or not.

My turn....

By backyard backs up to. A pasture with an old wire cow fence and some mature trees interwoven in the fence. Poison ivy is growing from the pasture / trees into my yard. I have pulled up the roots before but now am just thinking of a box of salt. Help.

 
After working on my acre of yard for three years on my own, I got tired of the neighbors yards looking like professional ball fields so I decided to use their fertilizer company. 6 yearly treatments will cost me $500, which is only slightly more than me buying enough product to do what they're going to be doing.

Here's my question: they put down the fertilizer, weed control, crab grass control, grub control etc earlier this week. On the invoice, it recommended I spot seed the bare spots, rake and top soil. Once the crab grass control set in, I had a lot of brown spots where there was crab grass. Yesterday I raked all the dead crab grass up and churned the soil. With a lot of rain coming last night and forecasted for later this week, I ended up getting a 30lb bag of seed and spot planted in the areas that I raked up. Will I have a problem with this seed growing? I read to wait 4 months after a crab grass controller, but that doesn't seem feasible.

Thanks for any insight.

 
My advice - already given and probably ignored --- stop using those poisons. dig em up by hand if you must but stop poisoning the environment!

 
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avoiding injuries said:
After working on my acre of yard for three years on my own, I got tired of the neighbors yards looking like professional ball fields so I decided to use their fertilizer company. 6 yearly treatments will cost me $500, which is only slightly more than me buying enough product to do what they're going to be doing.

Here's my question: they put down the fertilizer, weed control, crab grass control, grub control etc earlier this week. On the invoice, it recommended I spot seed the bare spots, rake and top soil. Once the crab grass control set in, I had a lot of brown spots where there was crab grass. Yesterday I raked all the dead crab grass up and churned the soil. With a lot of rain coming last night and forecasted for later this week, I ended up getting a 30lb bag of seed and spot planted in the areas that I raked up. Will I have a problem with this seed growing? I read to wait 4 months after a crab grass controller, but that doesn't seem feasible.

Thanks for any insight.
It depends on the type of crab grass control used.

Some of the newer formulas will allow for seeds to germinate but most of the base formulas will block seed from growing.

Just call the fertilizer company and ask. It is a simple question they can answer quickly for you.

 
I want to add some news beds this year in areas where grass grows poorly.

For you guys that don't use round up, what type of natural formula do you use to kill an area? It is too big to dig up by hand.

 
I want to add some news beds this year in areas where grass grows poorly.

For you guys that don't use round up, what type of natural formula do you use to kill an area? It is too big to dig up by hand.
Typically beds look better when they are built up, so I usually plan ahead for an area I want to convert to a new bed and just start dumping grass clippings, leaves, yard waste, etc in the area (after trenching around the perimeter of the area). Basically just bury it and forget it. Once you have it built up enough, put down some dirt and mulch over top.

This all assumes you can deal with it looking terrible during the time you're building it up and burying whatever was there previously.

 
avoiding injuries said:
shuke said:
I have a patch near each of the back corners of my house where our dog is limited by the underground fence. He likes to hang out in these spots and watch (bark at) people walking by. Anything I can do here?
I assume whatever you do the dog is going to continue to hang there. Any spot seeding would end up looking the same. It looks like a fairly small area. Turf?
Bluegrass/fescue

 
I've got blotch/dead spots all over my yard. I've been spending $40 every other month for weed/fertilizer the past two years and my grass doesn't look much better (minimal weeds though)....I'm about to put rock everywhere and say #### it.

 
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I've got blotch/dead spots all over my yard. I've been spending $40 every other month for weed/fertilizer the past two years and my grass doesn't look much better (minimal weeds though)....I'm about to put rock everywhere and say #### it.
I'm in the same boat.

Suggestions?

 
I feel strongly about this so I will continue to post it as I see this thread bumped. Please enjoy native plants that grow naturally. Manicured lawns are not natural! A weed is really a flower we have not learned to appreciate. Stop poisoning Mother Nature with all those herbicides and pesticides!

 
After working on my acre of yard for three years on my own, I got tired of the neighbors yards looking like professional ball fields so I decided to use their fertilizer company. 6 yearly treatments will cost me $500, which is only slightly more than me buying enough product to do what they're going to be doing.

Here's my question: they put down the fertilizer, weed control, crab grass control, grub control etc earlier this week. On the invoice, it recommended I spot seed the bare spots, rake and top soil. Once the crab grass control set in, I had a lot of brown spots where there was crab grass. Yesterday I raked all the dead crab grass up and churned the soil. With a lot of rain coming last night and forecasted for later this week, I ended up getting a 30lb bag of seed and spot planted in the areas that I raked up. Will I have a problem with this seed growing? I read to wait 4 months after a crab grass controller, but that doesn't seem feasible.

Thanks for any insight.
It depends on the type of crab grass control used. Some of the newer formulas will allow for seeds to germinate but most of the base formulas will block seed from growing.

Just call the fertilizer company and ask. It is a simple question they can answer quickly for you.
Not one new blade of grass from the 30lb bag of seed.
 
Here is zoysia in the fall. I started with one pallet to see what it was like. Then I brought in another 12 or so. http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2wdd7h4&s=8#.Uz8ng0rD9hG

Zoysia vs Bahia 1 - http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=35kquyx&s=8#.Uz8oM0rD9hE

Zoysia vs Bahia 2 - http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2j1k7rm&s=8#.Uz8odUrD9hE
I'm looking at using Zoysia to redo my lawn. I just checked and there are 14 different kinds. Do you know what type you used?
Empireturf. http://empireturf.com/ And yeah, my lawn does look just like those in the picture.

Mohawk, you've lost your mind. All weeds must die. Good thing Zoysia just runs them over and chokes them out. I do have to spray for the one where the seed got deposited in the turf.

 
I've got blotch/dead spots all over my yard. I've been spending $40 every other month for weed/fertilizer the past two years and my grass doesn't look much better (minimal weeds though)....I'm about to put rock everywhere and say #### it.
I'm in the same boat.

Suggestions?
Dollar spot? I have a couple of patches of that this spring. In the process of wiping it out. It will travel if you have it, walk over it or mow it and then mow another area. I found out how quickly too.

 
After working on my acre of yard for three years on my own, I got tired of the neighbors yards looking like professional ball fields so I decided to use their fertilizer company. 6 yearly treatments will cost me $500, which is only slightly more than me buying enough product to do what they're going to be doing.

Here's my question: they put down the fertilizer, weed control, crab grass control, grub control etc earlier this week. On the invoice, it recommended I spot seed the bare spots, rake and top soil. Once the crab grass control set in, I had a lot of brown spots where there was crab grass. Yesterday I raked all the dead crab grass up and churned the soil. With a lot of rain coming last night and forecasted for later this week, I ended up getting a 30lb bag of seed and spot planted in the areas that I raked up. Will I have a problem with this seed growing? I read to wait 4 months after a crab grass controller, but that doesn't seem feasible.

Thanks for any insight.
It depends on the type of crab grass control used.Some of the newer formulas will allow for seeds to germinate but most of the base formulas will block seed from growing.

Just call the fertilizer company and ask. It is a simple question they can answer quickly for you.
Not one new blade of grass from the 30lb bag of seed.
Seeds in the fall, kill weeds in the spring.

 
My advice - already given and probably ignored --- stop using those poisons. dig em up by hand if you must but stop poisoning the environment! yourself, your kids and your kids kids!!
This still won't get through to them, though. :(

 
Anybody else dealing with snow mold? Lawn looked great before the snow and now I have these spot all over after the thaw.
http://lawncare.about.com/od/turfgrasspests/a/snow_mold.htm

What causes snow mold?

Snow mold is caused when there is an extended period of snow cover on ground that is not completely frozen. It can also be brought on by a badly timed fertilizer application which causes a flush of growth too late in the fall. Snow mold can also occur under leaves that have not been cleaned up or amongst long grass that should have been mowed once more before winter set in.

How do I repair snow mold damage?

Fungicides are available for both preventive and curative treatments of snow mold. However, they are not recommended due to the largely superficial and temporary damage snow mold inflicts on the lawn.

Although it can look really nasty in the early spring, most snow mold damage will recover in time. Once the area has dried, the infection will cease and the turf will grow out and renew itself. To speed up the process, the infected area can be lightly raked to encourage drying. Some overseeding may be necessary and if the damage is extremely severe, topdressing can be applied and areas can be repaired like a bare patch.
My lawn recovered very nicely from the snow mold and now is lush. Just lightly raked up the bad spots and hit it early with Scotts Turf Builder. All the bad spots from the mold filled in. Everything is looking healthy and green. Been 7 weeks so next week I will be hitting with with Scotts Weed & Feed for the dandelions.

 
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I'm a relatively "green" guy but I don't understand the "poisoning you and your kids" stuff. I use "organic" fert and supplement with the occasional Scott's treatment. What is the vision of the poisoning crowd That I then make my kids go out and drink run off water right after I treat and water? That I make them go roll around in the treated weeds? Help me understand.

Another question I have is if "manicured lawns" are not normal, why is it that weeds yield to grass every time? Weeds are opportunistic. They don't like to compete with grass. They typically grow where grass isn't. If that's not survival of the fittest, I don't know what is.

 
I'm a relatively "green" guy but I don't understand the "poisoning you and your kids" stuff. I use "organic" fert and supplement with the occasional Scott's treatment. What is the vision of the poisoning crowd That I then make my kids go out and drink run off water right after I treat and water? That I make them go roll around in the treated weeds? Help me understand.

Another question I have is if "manicured lawns" are not normal, why is it that weeds yield to grass every time? Weeds are opportunistic. They don't like to compete with grass. They typically grow where grass isn't. If that's not survival of the fittest, I don't know what is.
They are insane.

 
I'm a relatively "green" guy but I don't understand the "poisoning you and your kids" stuff. I use "organic" fert and supplement with the occasional Scott's treatment. What is the vision of the poisoning crowd That I then make my kids go out and drink run off water right after I treat and water? That I make them go roll around in the treated weeds? Help me understand.

Another question I have is if "manicured lawns" are not normal, why is it that weeds yield to grass every time? Weeds are opportunistic. They don't like to compete with grass. They typically grow where grass isn't. If that's not survival of the fittest, I don't know what is.
Agreed. Seems so inconsequential compared to all the other way the planet is getting dumped on.

 
I'm a relatively "green" guy but I don't understand the "poisoning you and your kids" stuff. I use "organic" fert and supplement with the occasional Scott's treatment. What is the vision of the poisoning crowd That I then make my kids go out and drink run off water right after I treat and water? That I make them go roll around in the treated weeds? Help me understand.

Another question I have is if "manicured lawns" are not normal, why is it that weeds yield to grass every time? Weeds are opportunistic. They don't like to compete with grass. They typically grow where grass isn't. If that's not survival of the fittest, I don't know what is.
Agreed. Seems so inconsequential compared to all the other way the planet is getting dumped on.
Funny how it always seems so inconsequential compared to what other people are doing...

 
After working on my acre of yard for three years on my own, I got tired of the neighbors yards looking like professional ball fields so I decided to use their fertilizer company. 6 yearly treatments will cost me $500, which is only slightly more than me buying enough product to do what they're going to be doing.

Here's my question: they put down the fertilizer, weed control, crab grass control, grub control etc earlier this week. On the invoice, it recommended I spot seed the bare spots, rake and top soil. Once the crab grass control set in, I had a lot of brown spots where there was crab grass. Yesterday I raked all the dead crab grass up and churned the soil. With a lot of rain coming last night and forecasted for later this week, I ended up getting a 30lb bag of seed and spot planted in the areas that I raked up. Will I have a problem with this seed growing? I read to wait 4 months after a crab grass controller, but that doesn't seem feasible.

Thanks for any insight.
It depends on the type of crab grass control used. Some of the newer formulas will allow for seeds to germinate but most of the base formulas will block seed from growing.

Just call the fertilizer company and ask. It is a simple question they can answer quickly for you.
Not one new blade of grass from the 30lb bag of seed.
Well that answers that :(

 
I'm a relatively "green" guy but I don't understand the "poisoning you and your kids" stuff. I use "organic" fert and supplement with the occasional Scott's treatment. What is the vision of the poisoning crowd That I then make my kids go out and drink run off water right after I treat and water? That I make them go roll around in the treated weeds? Help me understand.

Another question I have is if "manicured lawns" are not normal, why is it that weeds yield to grass every time? Weeds are opportunistic. They don't like to compete with grass. They typically grow where grass isn't. If that's not survival of the fittest, I don't know what is.
Agreed. Seems so inconsequential compared to all the other way the planet is getting dumped on.
Funny how it always seems so inconsequential compared to what other people are doing...
Indeed

 
I'm a relatively "green" guy but I don't understand the "poisoning you and your kids" stuff. I use "organic" fert and supplement with the occasional Scott's treatment. What is the vision of the poisoning crowd That I then make my kids go out and drink run off water right after I treat and water? That I make them go roll around in the treated weeds? Help me understand.
Not everyone is a judicious in their applications. And some of everything you put down ends up as runoff or filters down to the water table, ending up in your drinking water or causing die off in waterways. That whole cumulative effect thing to consider for down the road.

 
Questions

1) I seeded last fall. Some seed went into the beds. The grass grew well in the beds in clumps. Can I dig up the clumps and transplant them to bare spots in lawn?

2) I am creating a couple of new gravel beds this year. I am thinking if using the landscaping material (plastic?) that you lay down to block weeds before putting the gravel down. Has anyone used this and does it work/worth the money?

 
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Another question I have is if "manicured lawns" are not normal, why is it that weeds yield to grass every time? Weeds are opportunistic. They don't like to compete with grass. They typically grow where grass isn't. If that's not survival of the fittest, I don't know what is.
Clover seems immune to this. I just spent some time digging the buggers out. They wrap themselves right around the grass roots. Very difficult to remove by hand.

 
Questions

1) I seeded last fall. Some seed went into the beds. The grass grew well in the beds in clumps. Can I did up the clumps and transplant them to bare spots in lawn?

2) I am creating a couple of new gravel beds this year. I am thinking if using the landscaping material (plastic?) that you lay down to block weeds before putting the gravel down. Has anyone used this and does it work/worth the money?
1) Yes.

2) The black mesh that allows drainage works well.

 
I'll ask again. Anyone know of a good shade grass? I've got a portion of my yard that is fairly heavily shaded and grass struggles there. Any ideas?

 
I'm a relatively "green" guy but I don't understand the "poisoning you and your kids" stuff. I use "organic" fert and supplement with the occasional Scott's treatment. What is the vision of the poisoning crowd That I then make my kids go out and drink run off water right after I treat and water? That I make them go roll around in the treated weeds? Help me understand.
Not everyone is a judicious in their applications. And some of everything you put down ends up as runoff or filters down to the water table, ending up in your drinking water or causing die off in waterways. That whole cumulative effect thing to consider for down the road.
There are traces of all kinds of things in our water supply, none of which are to the level of "poisoning our children". Yes, SOME products end up in the water in trace amounts. SOME products are designed to degrade within a couple days to a week. However, the statement I was responding to wasn't close to saying the same thing. That's why I asked the question.

 
I'll ask again. Anyone know of a good shade grass? I've got a portion of my yard that is fairly heavily shaded and grass struggles there. Any ideas?
I have the same question. I'm going to need a good solution for my back yard. It's 90% shade and what's back there now isn't sufficient. I was going to try to see if there was a fescue, bluegrass blend out there. I have a neighbor down the street who redid his yard last fall and it looks pretty good so far this year. I'll ask him what he used.

 
I'll ask again. Anyone know of a good shade grass? I've got a portion of my yard that is fairly heavily shaded and grass struggles there. Any ideas?
I have the same question. I'm going to need a good solution for my back yard. It's 90% shade and what's back there now isn't sufficient. I was going to try to see if there was a fescue, bluegrass blend out there. I have a neighbor down the street who redid his yard last fall and it looks pretty good so far this year. I'll ask him what he used.
After years of fighting this, I have given up. I have tried multiple blends of seeds(some specifically made for sgade) but the results are always the same. It comes in ok in the fall, but by the next summer it thins again.

I decided to stop fighting nature and am going to turn the areas into beds.

 
I'll ask again. Anyone know of a good shade grass? I've got a portion of my yard that is fairly heavily shaded and grass struggles there. Any ideas?
Ground cover not an option?
it is, but it's along the walkway right up to the front door. there's a large pine tree and i have some 6' tall ferns that add more shade to it. i just really want grass. i have a succulent garden on the other side of the walkway

 
When you multiply tens of millions of homes "judiciously" using pesticides and herbicides, even so called judicious use becomes huge amounts of poisons running into our streams and lakes and bays. Like others have said, when all those chemicals run off into the local water system, then indeed you are poisoning the rivers, bays, etc. of Mother Nature. The decline of pollinators has been linked to herbicides and pesticides. If the bees die out, we are in trouble! Cancer rates are rising. The ecosystem is unraveling. Species die-off has accelerated. The ocean has become like a sewer. Many rivers and bays cannot support indigenous fish and oysters and such. And you tell me this is all OK? Nope.

 
When you multiply tens of millions of homes "judiciously" using pesticides and herbicides, even so called judicious use becomes huge amounts of poisons running into our streams and lakes and bays. Like others have said, when all those chemicals run off into the local water system, then indeed you are poisoning the rivers, bays, etc. of Mother Nature. The decline of pollinators has been linked to herbicides and pesticides. If the bees die out, we are in trouble! Cancer rates are rising. The ecosystem is unraveling. Species die-off has accelerated. The ocean has become like a sewer. Many rivers and bays cannot support indigenous fish and oysters and such. And you tell me this is all OK? Nope.
I don't think you'll get an argument that pesticides kill pests/insects etc. The problem I have with this shtick is that water sampling suggests we have a ton of other things more significant and concentrated to worry about in our water system (like arsenic, disinfectants, nitrates, lead/copper and millions of different medications) than we do herbicides. I should have probably left this alone to begin with, so this is my last post on the subject.

 
I'll ask again. Anyone know of a good shade grass? I've got a portion of my yard that is fairly heavily shaded and grass struggles there. Any ideas?
I have the same question. I'm going to need a good solution for my back yard. It's 90% shade and what's back there now isn't sufficient. I was going to try to see if there was a fescue, bluegrass blend out there. I have a neighbor down the street who redid his yard last fall and it looks pretty good so far this year. I'll ask him what he used.
After years of fighting this, I have given up. I have tried multiple blends of seeds(some specifically made for sgade) but the results are always the same. It comes in ok in the fall, but by the next summer it thins again.

I decided to stop fighting nature and am going to turn the areas into beds.
I can't turn my entire back yard into natural area though. I'm going down the fescue/bluegrass route to see how that works. I couple years of dumping 50 lbs on a 1/4 acre should give me something to work with.

 
The sky is not falling. However, the oceans and bays and rivers ARE dying from being used as sewers. Non-point sources of pollutants, such as our yards, are as big a contributor as industrial waste. We all have to try to clean up our act! Not trying to be a thread hijacker. Continue with your fescue. Just please try to tolerate a dandelion or two.

 
The sky is not falling. However, the oceans and bays and rivers ARE dying from being used as sewers. Non-point sources of pollutants, such as our yards, are as big a contributor as industrial waste. We all have to try to clean up our act! Not trying to be a thread hijacker. Continue with your fescue. Just please try to tolerate a dandelion or two.
I agree but when we are talking poison ivy in the same yard my son wants to play in well it must go.

I do agree about pulling it by hand instead of roundup though.

 

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