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Otis in the Suburbs (1 Viewer)

Otis in the Suburbs

  • Yes

    Votes: 12 17.1%
  • Right-O

    Votes: 18 25.7%
  • You betcha

    Votes: 40 57.1%

  • Total voters
    70
New trees planted along the patio

This extends the row of them along the yard that were already there but planted wrong so they are half dead. The plan per the landscaper is to try and bring them back to life, since they can be expensive.

It's sort of amazing to me that these are the same kind of tree. WTF

Anyway, we ran a sprinkler hose all the way up and down the line of trees and I will water the heck out of them. Any of you plant nerds have suggestions for bringing those other guys back to life and getting them to fill out? Can I just go pick up some plant food and stuff it at the trunks and see what happens?
If those are Leylands they are way too close together. Those things get huge - vertically and horizontally.

House looks great, BTW.

 
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New trees planted along the patio

This extends the row of them along the yard that were already there but planted wrong so they are half dead. The plan per the landscaper is to try and bring them back to life, since they can be expensive.

It's sort of amazing to me that these are the same kind of tree. WTF

Anyway, we ran a sprinkler hose all the way up and down the line of trees and I will water the heck out of them. Any of you plant nerds have suggestions for bringing those other guys back to life and getting them to fill out? Can I just go pick up some plant food and stuff it at the trunks and see what happens?
If those are Leylands they are way too close together. Those things get huge - vertically and horizontally.

House looks great, BTW.
They should be 6-7 feet apart typically. However, there are some variations that grow to their girth, then up. Maybe that's what these are? I've seen them planted this way before and the end result looks ok, but where the trees meet, there is generally a good amount of dead material. They "shed" a couple times a year.ETA: That second pic looks like a leyland beside a river birch....I've never seen a leyland with multiple trunks before.

 
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New trees planted along the patio

This extends the row of them along the yard that were already there but planted wrong so they are half dead. The plan per the landscaper is to try and bring them back to life, since they can be expensive.

It's sort of amazing to me that these are the same kind of tree. WTF

Anyway, we ran a sprinkler hose all the way up and down the line of trees and I will water the heck out of them. Any of you plant nerds have suggestions for bringing those other guys back to life and getting them to fill out? Can I just go pick up some plant food and stuff it at the trunks and see what happens?
If those are Leylands they are way too close together. Those things get huge - vertically and horizontally.

House looks great, BTW.
Yeah I thought they were supposed to be 3 feet apart. These look closer than that. Confused me. They'll still grow up, and it'll be a nice thick hedge I think, which is what we are looking for. As long as that happens I'm OK with it. My bigger concern is the thin ones.
 
They should be 6-7 feet apart typically. However, there are some variations that grow to their girth, then up. Maybe that's what these are? I've seen them planted this way before and the end result looks ok, but the where the trees meet, there is generally a good amount of dead material. It "sheds" a couple times a year.
Yeah, could be a different variation. I assume they know what they're doing. I know ours are planted 6 ft apart and they're now touching after 5-6 years and we bought them much smaller than Otis did.Ours were maybe a foot or so tall when we planted them 5-6 years ago. Now they're roughly 20 feet tall and around 8 feet wide.
 
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They should be 6-7 feet apart typically. However, there are some variations that grow to their girth, then up. Maybe that's what these are? I've seen them planted this way before and the end result looks ok, but the where the trees meet, there is generally a good amount of dead material. It "sheds" a couple times a year.
Yeah, could be a different variation. I assume they know what they're doing. I know ours are planted 6 ft apart and they're now touching after 5-6 years and we bought them much smaller than Otis did.
Same here. We had 7 gallon buckets. Planted them 6 feet apart and they are almost touching now. They've quadrupled in size the last 2 years :thumbup:
 
They should be 6-7 feet apart typically. However, there are some variations that grow to their girth, then up. Maybe that's what these are? I've seen them planted this way before and the end result looks ok, but the where the trees meet, there is generally a good amount of dead material. It "sheds" a couple times a year.
Yeah, could be a different variation. I assume they know what they're doing. I know ours are planted 6 ft apart and they're now touching after 5-6 years and we bought them much smaller than Otis did.Ours were maybe a foot or so tall when we planted them 5-6 years ago. Now they're roughly 20 feet tall and around 8 feet wide.
Damn those are some big trees.Ours are 6-7 feet. Once they hit 15 or 20 we'll finally have some privacy. I understand they'll grow 2-3 feet a year.
 
I went out and measured, and they are actually spaced between 3-4 feet apart. Based on what I'm reading that should get us a pretty tall hedge.

I'm looking online at sites for finding trees for the areas where privacy isn't such an immediate concern -- I'd like to put a wall of these around the rest of the yard. You can find tiny ones for 20 bucks a pop. Thinking about having a couple dozen delivered and planting them myself. A couple years down the road they'll make some nice privacy.

Of course I got to shopping around on the site and came across a few awesome colorful trees that I'd like to plant at various strategic points on the property.

Weeping Willow, 3-4 ft. 1 29.95 29.95

Dynamite Crape Myrtle Tree, 2-4 ft. 1 49.95 49.95

Tonto Crape Myrtle, 2-3 ft. 1 39.95 39.95

Tulip Poplar, 2-4 ft. 1 49.95 49.95

Of course we cut down a bunch of crappy, poorly-placed trees. But these are some awesome, interesting, colorful trees, and we won't plant them directly in front of our house.

I could get carried away with this... :unsure:

 
This advice is from years of personal experience. I have killed countless house plants by giving them too much TLC so I know what I'm talking about.

It may be difficult for Otis but must.not.overwater.the.trees. The key to being a good gardener is knowing what is too little, what is too much, and what is just right. :goldilocks:

"Leyland cypress is considered relatively pest-free. However, because of its relatively shallow root system, and because they are often planted too close together and in poorly drained soils, Leyland cypress is prone to root rot and several damaging canker diseases, especially during periods of prolonged drought."

 
Oy. I don't know where to start on those trees but this is a shame, imo. :mellow:
:confused:
That's an instant gratification planting with longterm issues. Ah nevermind me Otis. They look nice. Read up on the correct fertilizer and watering for such a tight planting though.
Clearly the optimal distance between tree trunks is 5-6 feet if one wants the trees to grow up to 20' tall in a few years. I am thinking that it may not be easy to move them further apart later without damaging the roots?
 
I went out and measured, and they are actually spaced between 3-4 feet apart. Based on what I'm reading that should get us a pretty tall hedge.I'm looking online at sites for finding trees for the areas where privacy isn't such an immediate concern -- I'd like to put a wall of these around the rest of the yard. You can find tiny ones for 20 bucks a pop. Thinking about having a couple dozen delivered and planting them myself. A couple years down the road they'll make some nice privacy.Of course I got to shopping around on the site and came across a few awesome colorful trees that I'd like to plant at various strategic points on the property.Weeping Willow, 3-4 ft. 1 29.95 29.95Dynamite Crape Myrtle Tree, 2-4 ft. 1 49.95 49.95Tonto Crape Myrtle, 2-3 ft. 1 39.95 39.95Tulip Poplar, 2-4 ft. 1 49.95 49.95 Of course we cut down a bunch of crappy, poorly-placed trees. But these are some awesome, interesting, colorful trees, and we won't plant them directly in front of our house.I could get carried away with this... :unsure:
Beware of the weeping willow and where you place them. They get huge quick (we planted one of these this year. It was a 5 gallon bucket and it's almost 20 feet tall now). The growing part is great, but they have very large and very shallow roots, so plant them in low traffic areas or you'll trip over them for as long as you are in the house. By the way, has that been your chopper flying over our house lately? Originally, I thought it was the power company, but given you have put or are thinking of putting almost everything in your yard that we have put in ours, I am beginning to wonder. I'll be calling :bs: when you start talking about putting various cedar trees in as well.
 
This advice is from years of personal experience. I have killed countless house plants by giving them too much TLC so I know what I'm talking about.

It may be difficult for Otis but must.not.overwater.the.trees. The key to being a good gardener is knowing what is too little, what is too much, and what is just right. :goldilocks:

"Leyland cypress is considered relatively pest-free. However, because of its relatively shallow root system, and because they are often planted too close together and in poorly drained soils, Leyland cypress is prone to root rot and several damaging canker diseases, especially during periods of prolonged drought."
This is true of almost all cypresses. The tighter the planting the more difficult the care. Cut water and fertilizer by a third to half depending on water retention in the soil, because the trees stunt each other making the needs of two trees somewhat equal to the needs of one when the roots go siamese twin underground. While watering less in volume you must water more frequently because they are more sensitive to being to overly saturated or dried out without the space needed to adjust to either too wet or dry conditions. A drip line is ideal.
 
They should be 6-7 feet apart typically. However, there are some variations that grow to their girth, then up. Maybe that's what these are? I've seen them planted this way before and the end result looks ok, but the where the trees meet, there is generally a good amount of dead material. It "sheds" a couple times a year.
Yeah, could be a different variation. I assume they know what they're doing. I know ours are planted 6 ft apart and they're now touching after 5-6 years and we bought them much smaller than Otis did.Ours were maybe a foot or so tall when we planted them 5-6 years ago. Now they're roughly 20 feet tall and around 8 feet wide.
Damn those are some big trees.Ours are 6-7 feet. Once they hit 15 or 20 we'll finally have some privacy. I understand they'll grow 2-3 feet a year.
Okay, my memory is a bit generous. They're more like 15 feet by 6 feet.
 
New trees planted along the patio

This extends the row of them along the yard that were already there but planted wrong so they are half dead. The plan per the landscaper is to try and bring them back to life, since they can be expensive.

It's sort of amazing to me that these are the same kind of tree. WTF

Anyway, we ran a sprinkler hose all the way up and down the line of trees and I will water the heck out of them. Any of you plant nerds have suggestions for bringing those other guys back to life and getting them to fill out? Can I just go pick up some plant food and stuff it at the trunks and see what happens?
Planted way too close together.....
 
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New trees planted along the patio

This extends the row of them along the yard that were already there but planted wrong so they are half dead. The plan per the landscaper is to try and bring them back to life, since they can be expensive.

It's sort of amazing to me that these are the same kind of tree. WTF

Anyway, we ran a sprinkler hose all the way up and down the line of trees and I will water the heck out of them. Any of you plant nerds have suggestions for bringing those other guys back to life and getting them to fill out? Can I just go pick up some plant food and stuff it at the trunks and see what happens?
Planted way too close together.....
:shrug: He guarantees them, so worst case they don't take and he fixes them.

 
New trees planted along the patio

This extends the row of them along the yard that were already there but planted wrong so they are half dead. The plan per the landscaper is to try and bring them back to life, since they can be expensive.

It's sort of amazing to me that these are the same kind of tree. WTF

Anyway, we ran a sprinkler hose all the way up and down the line of trees and I will water the heck out of them. Any of you plant nerds have suggestions for bringing those other guys back to life and getting them to fill out? Can I just go pick up some plant food and stuff it at the trunks and see what happens?
Planted way too close together.....
:shrug: He guarantees them, so worst case they don't take and he fixes them.
Exactly what did he guarantee, that they don't grow up to be drawrfs?
 
Picked up some fertilizer spikes supposedly for evergreens and jammed a bunch of them into the ground near the base of the dead trees. Been watering them a bunch too with the drip/soaker hose. Let's bring these bad boys back to life.

I seriously almost spent 500 bucks online on other trees this morning. I'm losing it.

 
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Here's another question -- I have a wired doorbell. The siding guys took off the old one and didn't reconnect it. They tried, but I think gave up, because the old wires coming out of the hole are REALLY short. Like, barely poking through the hole. Now it's sort of fine because I have just finished replacing all the door hardware with shiny new brass stuff, and wanted to replace the doorbell button too. So I picked up a nice shiny new one, which is lit sort of like the old one. Took me about a million centuries but I finally got the stupid wires to stay in place (I think one is connected to the contact by force alone, but however it seated in there, it worked).

So it's working fine and lights up nice and all is well. Except it's pretty warm/bordering on hot to the touch. Now, my understanding is that these doorbell circuits are really low current (I did all this while it was "live") -- I think somewhere in Duracell territory. But is there any risk of fire here? I'm thinking no given the low power we are talking about, but the thought crossed my mind.

Any ideas?

I guess I'll just ask the electrician the next time he is back to fix the rest of the prior owners' screwups :thumbup:

 
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'Britney Spears said:
'Otis said:
Brit -- here is a shot from above of the gutters

Bonus pic -- ever see a raccoon get owned???? :bowtie:
If I could get those for 1k installed with the gutter guard' I would do that in a heartbeat. Those are really nice. I'm not doing siding or anything, so I don't have that working in my favor. I think I'm gonna have to go 5" K style with the gutter guards. Pics will be forthcoming.
Gutter guards are way easy to install, they just pop into the gutter and uner the shingle..... It's the ladder part that's a pain
 
installed some new floors in the place. figured this is a good place to post my hard work.

saturday

sunday

friday
Curious why you didn't take the trim off before you installed the floor, you going to use a shoe molding?
exactly. w/ permission of the old lady of course.
That's what we have, I've never done floors myself but I'm threatening to take up all the pergo and carpet and hardwood the entire dowstairs minus the family room. Not sure if I want to tackle it yet if at all. Deciding if I want to do it right and take out all the cabinets and trim etc etc etc...
 
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installed some new floors in the place. figured this is a good place to post my hard work.

saturday

sunday

friday
Curious why you didn't take the trim off before you installed the floor, you going to use a shoe molding?
exactly. w/ permission of the old lady of course.
That's what we have, I've never done floors myself but I'm threatening to take up all the pergo and carpet and hardwood the entire dowstairs minus the family room. Not sure if I want to tackle it yet if at all. Deciding if I want to do it right and take out all the cabinets and trim etc etc etc...
it was a lot of hardwork. Having never put floors in, i had a friend, who's a carpenter by trade, work with me. wouldnt have been able to tackle this by myself. plus he had a miter saw and a bunch of other tools that came in handy.
 
installed some new floors in the place. figured this is a good place to post my hard work.

saturday

sunday

friday
Curious why you didn't take the trim off before you installed the floor, you going to use a shoe molding?
exactly. w/ permission of the old lady of course.
That's what we have, I've never done floors myself but I'm threatening to take up all the pergo and carpet and hardwood the entire dowstairs minus the family room. Not sure if I want to tackle it yet if at all. Deciding if I want to do it right and take out all the cabinets and trim etc etc etc...
it was a lot of hardwork. Having never put floors in, i had a friend, who's a carpenter by trade, work with me. wouldnt have been able to tackle this by myself. plus he had a miter saw and a bunch of other tools that came in handy.
I have all the tools from redoing a bathroom (minus the floor), and think I know what to do BUT applying it and knowing it are 2 different things. I think I'm an above average handy guy and know I could probably do this if I wanted to. it's just whether I feel like going through all the growing pains etc etc.
 
Fellow Rednecks,

What tool can I use to cut a hole in this? After buying it to mount on the wall behind the stove, I realized that there is an outlet in the middle of that wall that the oven plugs into. I figure I just need to cut a sloppy hole, mount the thing so that the outlet is accessible, and then I can get a stainless outlet cover to put on top of the backsplash.

TIA

 
Fellow Rednecks,

What tool can I use to cut a hole in this? After buying it to mount on the wall behind the stove, I realized that there is an outlet in the middle of that wall that the oven plugs into. I figure I just need to cut a sloppy hole, mount the thing so that the outlet is accessible, and then I can get a stainless outlet cover to put on top of the backsplash.

TIA
blowtorch imoETA:

how thick is it?

 
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Fellow Rednecks,

What tool can I use to cut a hole in this? After buying it to mount on the wall behind the stove, I realized that there is an outlet in the middle of that wall that the oven plugs into. I figure I just need to cut a sloppy hole, mount the thing so that the outlet is accessible, and then I can get a stainless outlet cover to put on top of the backsplash.

TIA
Is this sheet going above(back splash) or below counter height...behind the stove? :confused:
 
1. Drill a hole

Then

2a. Use a jig saw with an appropriate metal cutting blade

Or

2b. Use tin snips (depending how thick the thing is)

(also could use one of these handy things with an appropriate attachment - bought one awhile back, big fan)

 
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Yea, how thick is it?

If it's pretty damn thin, you can probably get away with drilling holes and sliding in a very fine toothed hacksaw blade or sawzall blade.

Otherwise, you probably need and angle grinder and cutoff wheel.

 
Fellow Rednecks,

What tool can I use to cut a hole in this? After buying it to mount on the wall behind the stove, I realized that there is an outlet in the middle of that wall that the oven plugs into. I figure I just need to cut a sloppy hole, mount the thing so that the outlet is accessible, and then I can get a stainless outlet cover to put on top of the backsplash.

TIA
Try this
 
Oat,

Are you going to go for the mainicured look for those trees, creating a hedge, or let them grow however? I find them to be fairly ugly ATM. Sorry. :shrug:

 
I'd use a jigsaw as mentioned earlier. Be sure to cut from the back side so you don't scratch it. I wouldn't use the tin snips, because you'll probably bend and twist the stainless while trying to cut it with snips.

Another option would be a dremel with a cut-off bit. (cut hole from the back incase the dremel gets away from you)

ETA-I like the hacksaw blade idea too.

 
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