Also, since I'm a gear nerd, please allow me some nerding.
My road
steed
It's a 2001 litespeed tuscany frame, renolds ouzo pro fork , gruppo is SRAM Red, wheels are all DT Swiss - 240s hubs, 1.1 rims, revolution spokes on front/NDS, comp on DS rear. Nobody cares about the rest of the individual gear I put on it, but I think it's pretty.
I just today bought Force shifters/derailleurs for my cross bike. I like SRAM's gear. A lot. More intuitive, ergonomic, comfortable, adjustable, lighter, and even cheaper than Shimano. About the only thing I prefer about Shimano is it takes a slight bit less effort to shift - but it's not like shifting is really tough with SRAM. What I do prefer about the SRAM shifting is that the lever engages more quickly than anything I've used yet with the exception of Di2, which is a little ridiculously priced. Others say the dura ace crankset is stiffer - I'm not strong enough to tell the difference, and I'm still in a compact anyway.
I just recently got a fit done for that bike. I was having trouble with my hands and feet getting numb (my right hand specifically), and after I hit it hard I'd feel it in the knees. Feeling it in the knees sucks, as does feeling ######ed for an afternoon because your hand hasn't recovered. It turns out I, among other things, had my seatpost too high and my bars too low. I'm actually more flexible than I thought in the hips, but I (this is me embarrassed) lack the core strength necessary to hold myself in a lower position without putting all the weight on my hands, pressing into the bar. Also, I was told to add a footbed to my shoe, and recently moved my cleat back a little bit.
Having the saddle lower, counter to anything I would have guessed intuitively, puts me in a much more powerful position than before. My weight, in addition to being lowered, feels a lot farther back, and I feel that allows me to get a lot more out of my pedal stroke - in addition to pushing down, I'm pushing a lot more forward, engaging earlier in my stroke, and it's easier to finish the pedal stroke when my leg isn't quite as extended. Also, more weight back/low = less weight transferred straight past my weak core to the nerves in my hand.
The next step of the fit (as I understand) is to, while I'm in the trainer, fire up the computer/cameras, and start to adjust things like shims in my shoe to get my knees aligned directly in line with the pedal throughout the pedal stroke. I'm curious if that has as close to as dramatic of an impact as the first half of my fit has. I would HIGHLY recommend looking into a professional bike fit to just about anybody who spends a decent amount of time on it.