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*** Official Real Estate Forum *** (2 Viewers)

Isn't there something that will kill weeds for a while, like paper over top the ground or something?

Obviously out of my area.....

Anyways, I'm outta here until Monday. Going to watch the game and write my last Game Recap of the year...

Prediction: First OT Super Bowl Ever.

Seattle by 3, say 26-23.

 
Maybe this has been mentioned here, I don't know. How much will I expect to pay a management company to rent out a condo on a weekly/monthly basis? TIA

 
Maybe this has been mentioned here, I don't know. How much will I expect to pay a management company to rent out a condo on a weekly/monthly basis? TIA
Bassnbrew did answer this one, and it ranges.For an annual rental, 8-10% of the rent and 1/2-1 month's rent to place a new tenant.

For a monthly or weekly, that sounds like a vacation spot. It costs more, as much as 50% of the rent. Also depends on season and location.

Post whereabouts it is, and I'm sure Bass will have an idea.

 
Maybe this has been mentioned here, I don't know.  How much will I expect to pay a management company to rent out a condo on a weekly/monthly basis? TIA
Bassnbrew did answer this one, and it ranges.For an annual rental, 8-10% of the rent and 1/2-1 month's rent to place a new tenant.

For a monthly or weekly, that sounds like a vacation spot. It costs more, as much as 50% of the rent. Also depends on season and location.

Post whereabouts it is, and I'm sure Bass will have an idea.
Thanks. Myrtle Beach.
 
Maybe this has been mentioned here, I don't know.  How much will I expect to pay a management company to rent out a condo on a weekly/monthly basis? TIA
Bassnbrew did answer this one, and it ranges.For an annual rental, 8-10% of the rent and 1/2-1 month's rent to place a new tenant.

For a monthly or weekly, that sounds like a vacation spot. It costs more, as much as 50% of the rent. Also depends on season and location.

Post whereabouts it is, and I'm sure Bass will have an idea.
Thanks. Myrtle Beach.
I have a friend that pays a 50% fee for a condo at the NC beach. I believe that includes cleaning expenses and maintenance, but not repairs. Not sure how damage is addressed beyond the security deposit, although most companies will be using a credit card service. 12-15% goes straight to the state and probably 2-3% to the credit card company. Based on a $1000 / week rate, at least 5% to clean/prep. Basically you're paying for a one unit hotel operation, so it's pretty expensive.This isn't my area of expertise, but if you want to give me a detailed list of questions, I'll take them to my friend that has rental property at the beach and nail down the specifics. She does property management locally so she'll understand the questions.

 
What are your feelings on modular homes? Do you feel that they've caught up too and surpassed site built homes in quality? I often hear this, but usually from the mouths of the biased.
I wouldn't buy one yet. Depending upon your state's laws, I see problems with obtaining easy cheap financing on them. That leads to a lower priced and more difficult resale since you've gut the number of people who can get in and buy.
 
Looking to build a house in a develpoment by the Crow River in MN. The other side of the river is a state park. One lot in the development has been designated as a "park" with river access.

We're looking at 2 lots one has a pond view with the river in the background. The other is on the river for an additional 35K lot premium. The pond lot puts us at our spending limit but I'd rather be on the river.

Can anything creative be done to get the additional 35K? Perhaps someone takes an interest in the land as an investment?

 
I'm generalizing now - along the Bay I like Essex and anything in Harford / Cecil counties.
great thread!bought @auction 2br/1b in Dundalk for my daughter 4 yrs ago for 60K---sold for $126K 2 months ago, as she "upgraded" (only work done was windows and paint)

wife and I carried the paper for the first year for her, then when she repaid us we bought similar property in Essex for my son, for $62K (also @auction)--we gutted his and put $20K inside---similar property around the coener went for $155K recently...

...so YES, we like Essex also!

that has been the extent of my real estate "investing"...I didn't want to see my kids dump $6K each per year on rent

I have seen many ads regarding "foreclosures"...seek out distressed owners prior to the auction precess that I'm familiar with

do you have any experience with this "pre-foreclosure" type business?

where are you located? would love to crack a cold :banned: w/you and pick your brain one afternoon

 
What are your feelings on modular homes? Do you feel that they've caught up too and surpassed site built homes in quality? I often hear this, but usually from the mouths of the biased.
I wouldn't buy one yet. Depending upon your state's laws, I see problems with obtaining easy cheap financing on them. That leads to a lower priced and more difficult resale since you've gut the number of people who can get in and buy.
Do you mean MOBILE homes?MODULAR is a type of building new construction. There should not be a difficulty in obtaining new construction loans for these. Many big builders are using modular techniques (building homes in panels and such) to expedite construction.

 
I'm generalizing now - along the Bay I like Essex and anything in Harford / Cecil counties.
great thread!bought @auction 2br/1b in Dundalk for my daughter 4 yrs ago for 60K---sold for $126K 2 months ago, as she "upgraded" (only work done was windows and paint)

wife and I carried the paper for the first year for her, then when she repaid us we bought similar property in Essex for my son, for $62K (also @auction)--we gutted his and put $20K inside---similar property around the coener went for $155K recently...

...so YES, we like Essex also!

that has been the extent of my real estate "investing"...I didn't want to see my kids dump $6K each per year on rent

I have seen many ads regarding "foreclosures"...seek out distressed owners prior to the auction precess that I'm familiar with

do you have any experience with this "pre-foreclosure" type business?

where are you located? would love to crack a cold :banned: w/you and pick your brain one afternoon
Glad you are enjoying the thread.Check your PM box.

 
Looking to build a house in a develpoment by the Crow River in MN. The other side of the river is a state park. One lot in the development has been designated as a "park" with river access.

We're looking at 2 lots one has a pond view with the river in the background. The other is on the river for an additional 35K lot premium. The pond lot puts us at our spending limit but I'd rather be on the river.

Can anything creative be done to get the additional 35K? Perhaps someone takes an interest in the land as an investment?
What are the numbers?That is, what is the purchase price?

Are you just buying the land right now, or is this a land/construction package?

Based on the numbers we may be able to figure out how to finance your deal. If at all possible you should buy the lot you want, especially if you intend to be there for a while. The lot with the premium (not an uncommon builder tactic, by the way) sounds like it will be better for you in the long run and bring better resale value in the future.

Expand on your plans and I think we might be able to help.

 
Looking to build a house in a develpoment by the Crow River in MN. The other side of the river is a state park. One lot in the development has been designated as a "park" with river access.

We're looking at 2 lots one has a pond view with the river in the background. The other is on the river for an additional 35K lot premium. The pond lot puts us at our spending limit but I'd rather be on the river.

Can anything creative be done to get the additional 35K? Perhaps someone takes an interest in the land as an investment?
What are the numbers?That is, what is the purchase price?

Are you just buying the land right now, or is this a land/construction package?

Based on the numbers we may be able to figure out how to finance your deal. If at all possible you should buy the lot you want, especially if you intend to be there for a while. The lot with the premium (not an uncommon builder tactic, by the way) sounds like it will be better for you in the long run and bring better resale value in the future.

Expand on your plans and I think we might be able to help.
Base price is 300 including "standard" lot. Then you upgrade from there. I figure 30K in house upgrade's.... puts it at 330. The pond lot is +30 ...river is +65. Our target range was 330-360. Pond = 360 River = 395. If we bare minimum the river house we could get it to 385. (take standard carpet/vinyl vs. wood upgrade for example) It's only a $200 diff monthly but it's $200 that isn't there today. It doesn't take long to grow into a house payment but I'm only willing to be house poor for awhile ... not house broke. I'm working on ways to improve the cash flow situation... IO, raise, powerball, etc.. But the thought occurs to me that it may be a legitimate investment for somebody.... pretty well guaranteed albeit not very liquid. The idea would be to cash out when I do or buy them out as the cash flow improves. Probably works best with someone I know I suppose.

We recently had our last child so this house could last us indefinitely.

 
Looking to build a house in a develpoment by the Crow River in MN. The other side of the river is a state park. One lot in the development has been designated as a "park" with river access.

We're looking at 2 lots one has a pond view with the river in the background. The other is on the river for an additional 35K lot premium. The pond lot puts us at our spending limit but I'd rather be on the river.

Can anything creative be done to get the additional 35K? Perhaps someone takes an interest in the land as an investment?
What are the numbers?That is, what is the purchase price?

Are you just buying the land right now, or is this a land/construction package?

Based on the numbers we may be able to figure out how to finance your deal. If at all possible you should buy the lot you want, especially if you intend to be there for a while. The lot with the premium (not an uncommon builder tactic, by the way) sounds like it will be better for you in the long run and bring better resale value in the future.

Expand on your plans and I think we might be able to help.
Base price is 300 including "standard" lot. Then you upgrade from there. I figure 30K in house upgrade's.... puts it at 330. The pond lot is +30 ...river is +65. Our target range was 330-360. Pond = 360 River = 395. If we bare minimum the river house we could get it to 385. (take standard carpet/vinyl vs. wood upgrade for example) It's only a $200 diff monthly but it's $200 that isn't there today. It doesn't take long to grow into a house payment but I'm only willing to be house poor for awhile ... not house broke. I'm working on ways to improve the cash flow situation... IO, raise, powerball, etc.. But the thought occurs to me that it may be a legitimate investment for somebody.... pretty well guaranteed albeit not very liquid. The idea would be to cash out when I do or buy them out as the cash flow improves. Probably works best with someone I know I suppose.

We recently had our last child so this house could last us indefinitely.
What was your plan on affording 360 but not 395?If you offered the builder 385 today, would they take it? Probably...

There's 10K saved right there. You might have to agree to the upgrades (list those), but that may not matter. Use them as a bargaining chip.

Also consider not taking so much of the upgrades. Take the minimum you need and improve the house later, which WILL cost less. Go ahead and price them out - new carpeting costs $3 a sq. ft installed in some places (I think that's right).

DO NOT get a finished basement. Also consider a second source for a deck. Both those cost a lot from a builder.

As for the $200 a month, you might be looking at this bass-ackwards a bit. Let's look at how much you are putting down and how much of a payment you're trying for. If you tell me your plan is $2000 a month (without tax and insurance) for $360K house with 20% down, I'd say go with the 395K (negotiate it a bit - try and get the 385) and put 10% down, but go with a more aggressive loan (say interest only (I/O), ARM, reverse amortization even, etc.).

With 10% down and a 5% loan on 395K, you would put 39.5K down and finance the balance (355.5K) = A $1908.40 payment.

Rather than be house poor, go with a more aggressive loan. That would be my choice. Yes you're gambling (slightly) with interest rates, but you can refinance in a couple of years once you grow into the house.

Yes this may seem aggressive, but (1) you get the house you want, (2) you get the lot you want and (3) you get the payment you want.

Hope that helps.

 
I am not an accountant, and not qualified to comment on this, but it was found on Bankrate.com

Tax consequences of flipping real estateWednesday January 4, 6:00 am ET Kay Bell If you're looking to turn a quick buck on a real-estate transaction, accountant Bill Rucci has some words of warning: "It may be quick, but it also may not be as lucrative as you first thought."As housing prices in many parts of the United States skyrocketed, "flipping" -- buying a property and then quickly reselling it at a higher price -- has become the hottest investment trend.Many people view it as more lucrative than the stock market. Plus, flippers enjoy the tangible aspect of the deal. Since real estate is "real," you can look at a property and neighborhood and get a personal take on whether it's a good investment.But if you're not careful with your real estate flips, your investment strategy could produce a sizeable payoff for an unintended partner: the Internal Revenue Service.Real estate tax confusionRucci, a CPA and partner in the Boston-based accounting firm Rucci, Bardaro and Barrett, says that many of today's real estate investors go into the transactions completely uninformed."There is a huge misconception on the part of some people who think they can buy a residential home, not necessarily their personal residence, fix it up and then sell it; and then get what we used to call 'the old rollover provisions,' where you used the money you made to buy another piece of property for more than what you sold," says Rucci.But, says Rucci, there are two problems with that approach. "One, that rule existed for personal residences only; and two, it doesn't exist anymore."The rollover rule was replaced in 1997 by the current law that allows, in many cases, for the tax-free sale of a personal property. This is a great tax break if you're selling your primary residence after having lived in it for several years, but it does nothing for you, taxwise, if you're selling a house in which you have never lived. In this case, the residence is an investment property, and the tax considerations are completely different and definitely more costly.High expectations, higher taxesJust as costly is the mind-set of many real-estate speculators."We have tens of thousands of people getting into real estate. There's a gold-rush mentality that, 'If I invest in condos, I'll make money,'" says Mark Zilbert, a Realtor and real estate broker whose Zilbert Realty Group has created an offshoot, CondoFlip, to tap the soaring, Miami marketplace where his company is based."The majority of buyers understand that they can flip for a profit, understand what it means dollarwise, but they don't understand that taxes could reduce just how much of a profit they make," says Zilbert.Lonnie Davis, a CPA with the Philadelphia office of CBIZ Accounting, Tax and Advisory Services, agrees."The biggest issue with the real estate market, with the boom and prices rising very quickly, is that people want to capitalize on their gains, to take the money and run, so to speak," says Davis.Invest in patience as well as propertiesInstead of running, a tax-smart flipper could benefit from a slightly slower investment pace.Investment profit, regardless of whether it comes from sale of stocks or real estate, is considered capital gain and is taxed at two levels. The tax rates depend on how long you own the property.Hold an asset for a year or less and you'll face short-term gains that are taxed at ordinary income-tax rates. This could be as high as 35 percent. If your investment timetable is lengthier, federal tax laws reward you. By holding an asset for more than a year, you'll face the long-term capital gains rate that maxes out, in most instances, at 15 percent.Not all flippers, however, are able to wait on their profit, even when facing the threat of higher taxes."They have this brilliant idea to buy a house, buy a residential piece of property, fix it up and sell it; and then they want to do it for a new piece of property," says Rucci. When flippers find out they don't get the residential replacement rollover, they say "'OK, I made money. I'll pay the tax and buy another house.'"Such an approach could indeed net more cash. But continual property flipping also could create additional tax problems.IRS eyes flippersWhen you complete several real estate transactions in a short time, don't be surprised to learn that the IRS might consider your property transactions as a business or trade rather than as an investment strategy, says Davis. In that case, there's no way to get out of paying the higher ordinary income tax rates.So what's the business-versus-investment determining factor when it comes to property flipping? As with many tax issues, it depends."It's a facts-and-circumstances test," says Davis. "There's no rule of thumb that says: Buy three houses, you'll get capital gains; buy five and you're a dealer-trader. The IRS looks at whether the activity is really a business."Are you buying, renovating and holding multiple properties? What's the frequency of the buying and selling? If you're acquiring 15 properties in a year and that's pretty much what you do, then the IRS will likely determine that you're a dealer."And make no mistake about it, the IRS is looking closely at these transactions. Much attention has been given recently to the tax gap: The amount of money the IRS believes it is owed but hasn't been able to collect. Collecting taxes on real-estate-flip profit is one way to close that gap."The IRS is out looking for these transactions," says Rucci. "If the IRS decides your investment is a business; that what you're doing is to earn a living, the property changes from a capital asset to a means of producing income that's subject to ordinary tax rates, plus the additional burden of another 15.3 percent in self-employment taxes. And that's what the government is pushing for.""There's going to be a wake-up call for tens of thousands of people," says Zilbert. "They made good money. Still they'll see a dramatic reduction from what they thought they would make."Flipping the tax tablesTax costs, though, aren't going to deter some flippers, says Zilbert, especially those who've purchased in areas where property appreciation has been so great"I work with many investors who say, 'We love to pay taxes, because it means we're making money.'"But there are ways to pay less tax on a property-flip profit.The easiest is the aforementioned capital-gains technique. Simply hang onto the property for more than a year and you'll pay long-term capital gains taxes instead of higher ordinary rates. As long as you're planning your capital-assets strategy, see if you can sell the money-making real estate during the same tax year that you suffer a loss on another long-term asset. That way, you can use the loss to offset your gain.Want to avoid taxes altogether? Move into the investment property and turn it into your primary residence. As long as you live there for two years (or a total of 730 days -- and the occupation time doesn't have to be sequential) out of the last five, says Davis, the IRS will accept that it was your home. Then when you sell it, up to $250,000 (twice that if you're married and file jointly with your spouse) of your profit is excluded from taxation.You can also defer tax on your real estate gain by exchanging it for another property, known as a like-kind or Section 1031 exchange."The parameters here basically can be pretty broad, as long as you trade an investment property, or business property, for a similar one," says Davis. "For instance, you can swap undeveloped land for developed land, or vice versa. You can swap a residential rental home for a commercial property. The only restriction: The exchanged property can't be a personal asset. It has to be an income-producing asset."Keep in mind that a like-kind exchange will only postpone your tax bill. When you ultimately dispose of the investment property you acquired in the exchange, you'll owe taxes.Some property speculators incorporate in an effort to reduce or avoid taxes, but Davis says, "Whether you incorporate, or not, really doesn't change the tax law. The main benefit of incorporation is that you segregate your business activities from your personal so there's no personal liability, but incorporating doesn't change tax consequences."In fact, incorporating could make tax matters worse. "If you incorporate, that lends more credibility to the fact that it is a business, because you're letting the world know that there's an entity out there doing this," says Rucci.Proven tax-reduction tacticFinally, when flipping properties, make sure you follow one of the time-tested ways to reduce taxes: Keep good records. Such documentation can help you claim real estate investment deductions.When you invest in a property and then make improvements, those costs can be used to offset your eventual tax bill. Rucci recommends a separate checking account for each piece of property. Commingling the costs associated with several investment properties, or even one investment property and your personal bank account, can lead to confusion and potential tax problems.Rucci helped a client who came to the Boston CPA's office for help in answering IRS questions about three property flips. Rucci was able to convince the tax examiner that the client was indeed an investor, not a businessman buying and selling real estate, thus avoiding any self-employment tax assessments.However, Rucci didn't have as much success when it came to write-offs on the properties. The client had not been keeping good records of his real estate improvements, and the IRS disallowed some of the property-related deductions."Now that he's our client, he'll be doing a better job in that area," says Rucci
 
What are your feelings on modular homes?  Do you feel that they've caught up too and surpassed site built homes in quality?  I often hear this, but usually from the mouths of the biased.
I wouldn't buy one yet. Depending upon your state's laws, I see problems with obtaining easy cheap financing on them. That leads to a lower priced and more difficult resale since you've gut the number of people who can get in and buy.
Do you mean MOBILE homes?MODULAR is a type of building new construction. There should not be a difficulty in obtaining new construction loans for these. Many big builders are using modular techniques (building homes in panels and such) to expedite construction.
No, I don't. I meant to reply to your previously excellent explanation of what modular construction is. This may be another example of local real estate laws impacting advice.My advice is based upon my experience in the State of Michigan. In Michigan, modular is used interchangably to refer to three basic styles of modular home: a home manufactured to basic HUD standards, transported to the property and placed down on a foundation that can sometimes include I-beams; a home constructed off-site to BOCA standards transported to the site and placed upon a foundation; and then panelized construction techniques where construction is expedited. (This explanation is simplified)

Under Michigan law, the HUD home is titled as personal property no different than a single or double wide mobile home. That title does not disappear even if permanently attached to the property. The law has begun to change to respond to that situation allowing for a mechanism to cancel that title.

However, there is substantial differences in the quality of construction of various modulars--from fit and finish to basic durability (basically HUD construction standards are not appropriate for Michigan's climate IMO).

BOCA homes are not titled. They are constructed to a standard more consistent with most local construction codes. There is still a broad discrepancy amongst quality.

Panelized construction is beginning to get over its stigma as being similar to a mobile home. Financially I see that construction method as creating enough efficiencies and reduced cost that I think its use will become more widespread and more widely accepted.

You are correct obtaining construction financing is relatively easy. From an investment standpoint, I see two basic shortcomings: resale financing for the person buying an existing modular home can be less readily available than for stick-built--this does depend upon the type and quality, and I think renovations, additions and upgrades of the type to make money that many investors wish to make are more easily done and available with a frame stick built home.

Modular use, quality and advantages have improved at a greater pace than the law, their prior reputation, and financing methods. Will the law and lending catch up? Yes, eventually. As an investor who may choose to flip your property in the next 2 years prior to that time, do you want to take on the greater risk/lower reward of modulars? Depends upon your original acquisition price, I suppose.

I've see lots of crappy modular properties. Are there crappy stick built properties too? Oh yeah. Do high quality stick-builts experience the same stigma as high quality modulars? Nope.

My 2 cents.

 
I would add that it would be quite foolish to invest in Modular homes in Northern Indiana as well.

They are ruled as obsolete, 20 years from construction they are considered at the end of the economic life, and are no longer eligible for financing.

I looked into it when I found a source of Downtown city lots with Utilities already run for $200.00 a pop. Modular here is a Scarlet letter.

 
Found at http://money.cnn.com/2006/02/03/real_estat...tions_for_2006/

It's House price forcasts for 379 Metro areas. Wherever St. George, UT is, it is predicted to have the greatest increase in value in 2006. It is followed by Coeur d'Alene, ID in second. Really? Idaho?

My Market increased in value by 4.4% in 2005 (RIIIIGHTTTT, I live in this market, didn't happen, maybe the ultra high end housing carried us, but the normal house on the market did not increase). Anyway, we are predicted to go up 6.9% for 2006.

What is your market doing?

 
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I would add that it would be quite foolish to invest in Modular homes in Northern Indiana as well.

They are ruled as obsolete, 20 years from construction they are considered at the end of the economic life, and are no longer eligible for financing.

I looked into it when I found a source of Downtown city lots with Utilities already run for $200.00 a pop. Modular here is a Scarlet letter.
Just for clarification, what is your definition of modular? Certainly you are not refering to "panel and truss" construction.
 
I would add that it would be quite foolish to invest in Modular homes in Northern Indiana as well.

They are ruled as obsolete, 20 years from construction they are considered at the end of the economic life, and are no longer eligible for financing.

I looked into it when I found a source of Downtown city lots with Utilities already run for $200.00 a pop. Modular here is a Scarlet letter.
:eek: Is this a typo? You can buy a city lot w/utilities for $200?! Or do you mean $200 per square foot?

 
Wow, I'm surprised at some of these stigmas for MODULAR building.

I mean, I know national hotel companies that build this way, as do builders such as Ryan and Ryland homes, for example (Toll Brothers does not).

I tend to believe that these stigmas are all perception based and not on fact. Expected lifetime of 20 years? I doubt that.

As for quality, they are factory produced and quality assurance is on staff at these locations to ensure good product on a daily basis. That just doesn't happen in the field. Also, how many have seen construction workers that are kind of "half there" if you know what I mean on the job sites? Nothing against anyone making a living, but who's watching his work?

In Maryland and PA, modular is becoming the "in" way to build quick and cheap without much compromise in quality, if any. It's about 50-70% of the cost to put them up vs. stick built with little / no stigma aside from confusion with MOBILE homes.

Good discussion, though.

 
I just entered into a contract to buy a home in suburban Atlanta (Snellville). Its a first home purchase for me and I'm putting no $$ down. My lender got me a 100% financed loan on $183,000 at 6.375% fixed for 30 years. I have $90 in PMI every month as my midline credit score is 655 and I can't get a very good deal on an 80/20. My total payment (tax, ins., PMI, etc.) looks to be about $1,415/mo. This is just under 25% of my monthly gross income.

Two questions:

1) Does this seem like a decent deal considering my credit, income and the current market? I hope to sell in 3-5 years or at least rent it out for the monthly note in a few years as I will likely be relocated by my company in 2-3 years. I want to make sure the mortgage isn't a bad deal.

2) How soon can I dump my PMI? Do I need 20% in equity or is there a certain amount of time I have to have the PMI? What if my credit/debt-income ratio improve significantly in the next year? I need to dump the PMI ASAP, right? What's my best move?

Thanks!

- Jerm

 
I would add that it would be quite foolish to invest in Modular homes in Northern Indiana as well.

They are ruled as obsolete, 20 years from construction they are considered at the end of the economic life, and are no longer eligible for financing.

I looked into it when I found a source of Downtown city lots with Utilities already run for $200.00 a pop.    Modular here is a Scarlet letter.
:eek: Is this a typo? You can buy a city lot w/utilities for $200?! Or do you mean $200 per square foot?
No, $200-300 a pop. The list was picked clean. ;) Best return was packaging up a $200 and $300 side by side and turning it for $26K in two months.

 
I would add that it would be quite foolish to invest in Modular homes in Northern Indiana as well.

They are ruled as obsolete, 20 years from construction they are considered at the end of the economic life, and are no longer eligible for financing.

I looked into it when I found a source of Downtown city lots with Utilities already run for $200.00 a pop.    Modular here is a Scarlet letter.
:eek: Is this a typo? You can buy a city lot w/utilities for $200?! Or do you mean $200 per square foot?
No, $200-300 a pop. The list was picked clean. ;) Best return was packaging up a $200 and $300 side by side and turning it for $26K in two months.
I'm trying to imagine the circumstances that would induce the seller to let them go for 2% of their market value. Care to share?
 
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I would add that it would be quite foolish to invest in Modular homes in Northern Indiana as well.

They are ruled as obsolete, 20 years from construction they are considered at the end of the economic life, and are no longer eligible for financing.

I looked into it when I found a source of Downtown city lots with Utilities already run for $200.00 a pop. Modular here is a Scarlet letter.
:eek: Is this a typo? You can buy a city lot w/utilities for $200?! Or do you mean $200 per square foot?
No, $200-300 a pop. The list was picked clean. ;) Best return was packaging up a $200 and $300 side by side and turning it for $26K in two months.
Back taxes or water bill unpaid?
 
I just entered into a contract to buy a home in suburban Atlanta (Snellville). Its a first home purchase for me and I'm putting no $$ down. My lender got me a 100% financed loan on $183,000 at 6.375% fixed for 30 years. I have $90 in PMI every month as my midline credit score is 655 and I can't get a very good deal on an 80/20. My total payment (tax, ins., PMI, etc.) looks to be about $1,415/mo. This is just under 25% of my monthly gross income.

Two questions:

1) Does this seem like a decent deal considering my credit, income and the current market? I hope to sell in 3-5 years or at least rent it out for the monthly note in a few years as I will likely be relocated by my company in 2-3 years. I want to make sure the mortgage isn't a bad deal.

2) How soon can I dump my PMI? Do I need 20% in equity or is there a certain amount of time I have to have the PMI? What if my credit/debt-income ratio improve significantly in the next year? I need to dump the PMI ASAP, right? What's my best move?

Thanks!

- Jerm
"Jerm"....It does sound like a decent deal. I've heard of Snellville, but I don't recall much about it. I know the area around downtown, the airport, and Buckhead (big $$ there). That's about my limit.

As for your financing, 655 is about "B" grade credit. You should be able to boost it up to above 720 within a year - do you have late bills or anything?

Make sure you pay your mortgage on time. That's a big negative if you go 30 days late or longer.

Credit scores are a clouded subject with no published formula. All info is anecdotal / experimental / come from those who have had scores change over time. You can improve your score. I can talk about that later if you like.

Back to your deal - $1415 a month for a nice house in the 'burbs of Hotlanta sounds like a good deal for me, especially with no $$ down. Don't know what closing costs run - are they rolled in? - but you did try the 80/20 option to avoid PMI and it didn't fly. Oh well. You did good. Move in and enjoy it.

PMI - yes you need 20% equity. A new appraisal in a year might do the trick. Watch your local home values.

Regarding renting it out - watch what the rents are like in that area and see if you can cover your mortgage (at least), and hopefully by a third (that is get 1800 a month so 75%, 1450, covers your costs). That will leave you room to higher a Property Manager (PM) for 10% of the rent and leave you some slack for repairs or vacancies.

 
I just entered into a contract to buy a home in suburban Atlanta (Snellville). Its a first home purchase for me and I'm putting no $$ down. My lender got me a 100% financed loan on $183,000 at 6.375% fixed for 30 years. I have $90 in PMI every month as my midline credit score is 655 and I can't get a very good deal on an 80/20. My total payment (tax, ins., PMI, etc.) looks to be about $1,415/mo. This is just under 25% of my monthly gross income.

Two questions:

1) Does this seem like a decent deal considering my credit, income and the current market? I hope to sell in 3-5 years or at least rent it out for the monthly note in a few years as I will likely be relocated by my company in 2-3 years. I want to make sure the mortgage isn't a bad deal.

2) How soon can I dump my PMI? Do I need 20% in equity or is there a certain amount of time I have to have the PMI? What if my credit/debt-income ratio improve significantly in the next year? I need to dump the PMI ASAP, right? What's my best move?

Thanks!

- Jerm
"Jerm"....It does sound like a decent deal. I've heard of Snellville, but I don't recall much about it. I know the area around downtown, the airport, and Buckhead (big $$ there). That's about my limit.

As for your financing, 655 is about "B" grade credit. You should be able to boost it up to above 720 within a year - do you have late bills or anything?

Make sure you pay your mortgage on time. That's a big negative if you go 30 days late or longer.

Credit scores are a clouded subject with no published formula. All info is anecdotal / experimental / come from those who have had scores change over time. You can improve your score. I can talk about that later if you like.

Back to your deal - $1415 a month for a nice house in the 'burbs of Hotlanta sounds like a good deal for me, especially with no $$ down. Don't know what closing costs run - are they rolled in? - but you did try the 80/20 option to avoid PMI and it didn't fly. Oh well. You did good. Move in and enjoy it.

PMI - yes you need 20% equity. A new appraisal in a year might do the trick. Watch your local home values.

Regarding renting it out - watch what the rents are like in that area and see if you can cover your mortgage (at least), and hopefully by a third (that is get 1800 a month so 75%, 1450, covers your costs). That will leave you room to higher a Property Manager (PM) for 10% of the rent and leave you some slack for repairs or vacancies.
JE,Thanks for the info!

I feel pretty good about the deal but as a Noob I'm always looking for another opinion and additional advice.

We close on the 28th.

American Dream here I come...

- Jerm

Edit to add: The sellar is paying all closing costs and throwing in a pool table! :banned:

 
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I just entered into a contract to buy a home in suburban Atlanta (Snellville). Its a first home purchase for me and I'm putting no $$ down. My lender got me a 100% financed loan on $183,000 at 6.375% fixed for 30 years. I have $90 in PMI every month as my midline credit score is 655 and I can't get a very good deal on an 80/20. My total payment (tax, ins., PMI, etc.) looks to be about $1,415/mo. This is just under 25% of my monthly gross income.

Two questions:

1) Does this seem like a decent deal considering my credit, income and the current market? I hope to sell in 3-5 years or at least rent it out for the monthly note in a few years as I will likely be relocated by my company in 2-3 years. I want to make sure the mortgage isn't a bad deal.

2) How soon can I dump my PMI? Do I need 20% in equity or is there a certain amount of time I have to have the PMI? What if my credit/debt-income ratio improve significantly in the next year? I need to dump the PMI ASAP, right? What's my best move?

Thanks!

- Jerm
"Jerm"....It does sound like a decent deal. I've heard of Snellville, but I don't recall much about it. I know the area around downtown, the airport, and Buckhead (big $$ there). That's about my limit.

As for your financing, 655 is about "B" grade credit. You should be able to boost it up to above 720 within a year - do you have late bills or anything?

Make sure you pay your mortgage on time. That's a big negative if you go 30 days late or longer.

Credit scores are a clouded subject with no published formula. All info is anecdotal / experimental / come from those who have had scores change over time. You can improve your score. I can talk about that later if you like.

Back to your deal - $1415 a month for a nice house in the 'burbs of Hotlanta sounds like a good deal for me, especially with no $$ down. Don't know what closing costs run - are they rolled in? - but you did try the 80/20 option to avoid PMI and it didn't fly. Oh well. You did good. Move in and enjoy it.

PMI - yes you need 20% equity. A new appraisal in a year might do the trick. Watch your local home values.

Regarding renting it out - watch what the rents are like in that area and see if you can cover your mortgage (at least), and hopefully by a third (that is get 1800 a month so 75%, 1450, covers your costs). That will leave you room to higher a Property Manager (PM) for 10% of the rent and leave you some slack for repairs or vacancies.
JE,Thanks for the info!

I feel pretty good about the deal but as a Noob I'm always looking for another opinion and additional advice.

We close on the 28th.

American Dream here I come...

- Jerm

Edit to add: The sellar is paying all closing costs and throwing in a pool table! :banned:
Nice. I got the pool table at my house too. Far too many don't understand what a pain in the .... it is to move one of those.Ask for stuff, people! You might get it!

Especially if the sellers are down-sizing.

 
What do you guys think of working with partner(s) in purchasing homes? A couple buddies and I talk frequently about buying and renting over beers but it hasn't gone farther than talk.

As I read earlier, everything should be in writing and there should be clear cut goals and objectives, but are their other factors I should explore? On the surface it seems like a great arrangement. Each of us in this discussion has different skills/experiences that should allow us to do most or all repair work. Plus, with more owners, I would think that it is easier to manage the properties.

 
What do you guys think of working with partner(s) in purchasing homes? A couple buddies and I talk frequently about buying and renting over beers but it hasn't gone farther than talk.

As I read earlier, everything should be in writing and there should be clear cut goals and objectives, but are their other factors I should explore? On the surface it seems like a great arrangement. Each of us in this discussion has different skills/experiences that should allow us to do most or all repair work. Plus, with more owners, I would think that it is easier to manage the properties.
One problem that would concern me is spouses. If one of your partners gets a divorce, you may be facing a buyout situation when you least expect it. I would definately not go deeper than one partner.
 
Charlotte-Gastonia-Concord, NC-SC NC 190,000 4.5% 5.7% Hmmm...the median home hasn't appreciated that much in the last three years, much less one year. Those numbers have to be driven by new home sales. 5.7%...yeah...they say that every year and yet the average price is still $190,000. Doesn't add up.

 
What do you guys think of working with partner(s) in purchasing homes? A couple buddies and I talk frequently about buying and renting over beers but it hasn't gone farther than talk.

As I read earlier, everything should be in writing and there should be clear cut goals and objectives, but are their other factors I should explore? On the surface it seems like a great arrangement. Each of us in this discussion has different skills/experiences that should allow us to do most or all repair work. Plus, with more owners, I would think that it is easier to manage the properties.
It is smart to think of this now rather than later. But it is really impossible to think of everything before it happens.I was going to itemize how to run a project, but that deserves its own post. I'll add that next.

Determine what all the possible "outs" are before you enter in the agreement. Everything is rosy and all is happy at the beginning.

Have clear wording regarding if one or more partners want out before a project (or projects) are compete. That's the biggest problem.

Determine who has authority to do what. If one is the "money guy", does he have full say, or do all partners decide?

What about selling the property? Who approves the sale? Is the price right? Terms? Contract to accept ok?

How are the proceeds split? 50-50? Sounds easy - but 50-50 of what?

Example:

Buy a house for $100K. One partner puts in $100K of work and the other manages the project. Sales net $300K.

Does each get $50K? Or should the partner who put in $100K expect more? What about the project manager?

Also - what if the coffers run dry if one or more of the partners runs out of $$? What then?

Determine a project plan and who does what.

Get a RE attorney to draft a partnership agreement specific to a RE partnership arrangement.

 
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Running a project:

When you run a project, you have money, roles, a "SOW" which is a statement of work, a goal for profit, and a timeline.

The "SOW" allows you and your contractor(s) to be on the same page. For example:

1. Draw 1 - Demo the inside and clean out. Budget - $5K.

2. Draw 2 - Framing and roof, windows. Budget - $15K.

3. Draw 3 - New HVAC, plumbing and electric. Budget - $15K.

4. Draw 4 - Kitchen and bathrooms. Budget - $20K.

5. Draw 5 - Interior finishings, wallboard, crown molding, cabinets, appliances. Budget - $15K.

6. Draw 6 - Carpet, paint, landscaping. Budget - $10K.

7. Draw 7 - Punchout list.

Total budget - $80K.

Ok - some may have no idea what this is. It is a way to break down the job - and this is like the titles of chapters. Each item should have more detail to it, such as type of kitchen, granite counters (color, type, vendor, edging, etc.). The more detail the better. You can add Home Depot Item numbers or even paint codes. Doesn't matter. The more specific the better.

Remember - contractors have the word "contract" right in the name for a reason. They work to written instructions. Write as much down as you can. Sketch a floor plan or use software to generate one.

Also - when picking contractors, don't just use the phone book. References. Go see their work. Find anyone else who has used them.

You might even find a crew working near your project. Stop in at their site to check it out, find the foreman and ask who sets up their jobs. Easy way to get someone.

IMPORTANT - Good contractors on major jobs with multiple draws expect some sort of "holdback". This can be 10% of the budget / draw, or can be 1/2 of a draw. In the example above, a contractor can expect to get paid $4500 of the first draw upon completion of the work. Others will accept you holding 1/2 of the draw at the end (this would be $5K of the 6th draw in the example above).

Now, many contractors are weak in the financing department and need some $$ up front. Try not to do that unless you have good references with them. But work with them - this is supposed to be a partnership of sorts - and this could be the first of many jobs with them. If there's a foreman / general contractor ("GC"), acknowledge that you know he's getting 30-40% markup on materials and labor, but you know his time is valuable and that allows you to go find more projects. They will appreciate that.

Another way around this is to provide materials that you buy and that they just pay the labor. Whatever works.

Don't allow them to keep tools in the property, and have them secure the place when they leave. Board up / close off windows that can show others what's going on - no need for nosy neighbors or others to want some wood or other stuff.

It is always always ALWAYS best to use other people's money (OPM) when doing a rehab. Why put out 80K of your own $$ when a bank can give you most of it? Sure you pay for it, but isn't it better not to have 80K sunk into one project? Do one deal from start to finish, see how it goes, and use bank money. Then use the proceeds and do two. Then three at a time. See what pace works for you.

One added benefit of the OPM - they will require inspections to fund the "draws", so you can tell any contractor that "I'd love to pay you, but the bank can't pay me until you finish X, Y and Z.". That helps to make the bank th bad guy.

Finally - change the locks when you're done.

 
Found at http://money.cnn.com/2006/02/03/real_estat...tions_for_2006/

It's House price forcasts for 379 Metro areas. Wherever St. George, UT is, it is predicted to have the greatest increase in value in 2006. It is followed by Coeur d'Alene, ID in second. Really? Idaho?

My Market increased in value by 4.4% in 2005 (RIIIIGHTTTT, I live in this market, didn't happen, maybe the ultra high end housing carried us, but the normal house on the market did not increase). Anyway, we are predicted to go up 6.9% for 2006.

What is your market doing?
Metro Area Median Price Change Forecast (2005:Q3) (2004:Q3-2005:Q3) (2006)Baltimore-Towson, MD 229,000 19.8% 1.0%Bethesda-Frederick-Gaithersburg, MD 371,000 20.0% -2.5%Cumberland, MD-WV 90,000 15.3% 9.4%Hagerstown-Martinsburg, MD-WV 222,000 21.8% 7.4%Salisbury, MD 153,000 21.4% 2.0%Well, I'm in all but the Cumberland / WV market, and I'm not surprised by last year's numbers. I don't think it will be quite that slow for this year (I still expect about 10% statewide, just because of job growth and a growing government in both DC and MD). These studies don't really tell you terribly much. The Southeast, California and AZ are growth areas in the country. Warm and wet. That's where people go it seems.

I found this one EXTREMELY interesting, though:

Code:
Las Vegas-Paradise, NV   	 272,000 	 10.3% 	 -8.2%
The BOTTOM of the list. The "fastest growing city". It is waning, it is true. I know a few investors are scouting the area waiting for deals. I'd love to pick something up there as I'd love to have a place to stay when I visit (FBG Timeshares, anyone?).
 
Modular, Mobile, Manufactured...

Manufactured is the new term used in Michigan rather than "Mobile". Unfortunately, these terms are often bungled by most everyone who doesn't fully understand the technical distinctions. (And believe me I'm included in this as well) What this leads to in my market is a stigma.

Somebody asked if Mike A and I are referring to modular panel and truss construction. I'm not, and based upon Mike's answer regarding effective life I doubt he is either.

Here are some definitions/distinctions from the Mich. Manufactured Housing Assn:

http://www.michhome.org/definitions.html

I'm very familiar with the style of construction you're referring to Jeff and there are a couple of large developers who have cranked together a large number of affordable housing developments quickly with this method. A quicker, more precisely fit, with less waste construction process. These residential properties have much less stigma, and the commercial none.

 
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Modular, Mobile, Manufactured...

Manufactured is the new term used in Michigan rather than "Mobile". Unfortunately, these terms are often bungled by most everyone who doesn't fully understand the technical distinctions. (And believe me I'm included in this as well) What this leads to in my market is a stigma.

Somebody asked if Mike A and I are referring to modular panel and truss construction. I'm not, and based upon Mike's answer regarding effective life I doubt he is either.

Here are some definitions/distinctions from the Mich. Manufactured Housing Assn:

http://www.michhome.org/definitions.html

I'm very familiar with the style of construction you're referring to Jeff and there are a couple of large developers who have cranked together a large number of affordable housing developments quickly with this method. A quicker, more precisely fit, with less waste construction process. These residential properties have much less stigma, and the commercial none.
These definition problems are a major issue. Using "MODULAR" was a bad call for the industry. Many think "MODULAR" = "MOBILE", which is absolutely wrong.Afer reading Michigan's definitions, I have to say they stink.

To them, "manufactured" = mobile OR modular. Hence, a stigma. The only difference is that modular is defined as a type of manufactured, which is absolutely wrong.

Older mobile homes were tin cans that could be ported around. Newer double-wides were hard to transport. Neither are really "mobile" any more as it costs way too much to move them.

The only thing that modular has in common with mobiles is that they both are built off site and transported to the site on a truck (or trucks).

Mobile homes are placed in mobile home parks where they get utility hookups and pay ground rent / leases. They are registered in many states with the Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) or Motor Vehicle Administration (MVA), and aren't considered real estate AT ALL.

Modular homes are placed on permanent lots with permanent foundations, even with basements at times. They are a part of the construction of real estate and are treated as such.

I wish the best of luck to Michigan - they will need it.

 
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Jeff,

Thanks for all of the great advice so far. I'm looking into a potential commerial property as my first investment. I was wondering if you had any particular advice that would pertain to commercial property that you haven't covered already?

What are typical lender requirements for a commercial loan? I can put 20% down but I don't want to if I don't have to.

The asking price is 129k, its 1,100SF in a high traffic area in the downtown business district. Taxes are about $800/year. The property is currently vacant.

I'm thinking my total PITI would be around 1k/month. So a positive cash flow should be feasable. Is there anything else I'm overlooking? Thanks.

 
Jeff,

Thanks for all of the great advice so far. I'm looking into a potential commerial property as my first investment. I was wondering if you had any particular advice that would pertain to commercial property that you haven't covered already?

What are typical lender requirements for a commercial loan? I can put 20% down but I don't want to if I don't have to.

The asking price is 129k, its 1,100SF in a high traffic area in the downtown business district. Taxes are about $800/year. The property is currently vacant.

I'm thinking my total PITI would be around 1k/month. So a positive cash flow should be feasable. Is there anything else I'm overlooking? Thanks.
Ah, commercial. How I love to talk commercial.....Please let me know where you are. The more details the better. I promise not to scarf up your deals (I rarely go out of state, but will for really good ones).

20% down is typical, but the funny thing about commercial is that the sellers are often even more flexible than residential sellers. Why?

1. They are business savvy. They bought commercial, didn't they? That was for an investment not for a home (unless it is a Mom and Pop store with living space over it / behind it - then that's a special class called "mixed usage").

2. They know (or should know) that the market is smaller for commercial buyers.

3. They know the financing can be difficult.

You know where you stand as soon as you find the property. How you find it is telling. Online? Friend? Realtor?

Few people know that most realtors are not legally allowed to sell commercial real estate, yet many do.

They can tell you it is not true, but it is. Realtors will try and use a NAR contract for commercial, and that contract will get laughed out of any court or bank. For example, if you say that you're going to buy a farmhouse on 120 acres and develop it, would you write a contract to buy the "house" for $2 million dollars and take that to the bank? That doesn't make sense.

The correct realtors have a CCIM license. Real estate attorneys can also do the deal. CCIM's will defer to attorneys anyway for the contracts.

But anyway, to your deal....

129K, 1100 sq ft, high traffic, vacant.

You need to figure out some numbers.

What's going to go in there?

Do you know what the lease rate is in the area? How much per square foot?

How long are the typical leases? Is "triple net" ("NNN") typical?

For those who don't know, a "Net" is something the tenant pays. Taxes, Insurance, and Maintenance compose the 3 Nets in a Triple Net, aka NNN, aka Net Net Net property.

Once you have a lease amount, you need to figure your expenses. If you have a NNN property, there's basically no expenses.

I'll make a couple of assumptions to evaluate this, then backfill in with your real numbers.

Assume you get $2,000 a month for the space. You agree to pay Insurance and Taxes but not Maintenance ( a "Net" lease ). The $2K covers your PITI of 1100 a month.

Why not $1k for the PITI? Commercial loans are usually over 20 years, not 30, but you can certainly try. Bank relationships matter here.

Ok - so $2K covers $1100. They pay maintenance. You net $900 a month.

What's your NOI? That is your Net Operating Income, which is $$ left over after expenses on an annual amount but NOT including mortgage. Let's assume here htat you pay $800 a year for tax and $400 for insurance. That's $100 a month, $1200 a year.

Annual rent is $24K. That's $22,800 NOI. Very nice so far.

Your CAP rate is your "recapitalization rate", which is NOI / Sales Price. Here we have 22,800 / 129,000 for 17.7%.

Is that good? Um, yeah. Very. Anything over 10% is considered good in general, but your local commercial brokers can tell you would a typical office space cap rate would be. Just ask.

One last metric for you is your "cash on cash" return. You put down 20%, which is $25,800. Your NOI is $22,800, so that is 22800/25800 = 88%. I'll take that any day.

I would take 30-40% or better, actually, so if you can get that kind of rent you are doing fantastic.

I fear I overestimated your rents, so let me know. If you don't know, ask the neighboring store owners and the commerical realtors in the area (that will give you the cap rate anyway).

 
I would add that it would be quite foolish to invest in Modular homes in Northern Indiana as well.

They are ruled as obsolete, 20 years from construction they are considered at the end of the economic life, and are no longer eligible for financing.

I looked into it when I found a source of Downtown city lots with Utilities already run for $200.00 a pop.    Modular here is a Scarlet letter.
:eek: Is this a typo? You can buy a city lot w/utilities for $200?! Or do you mean $200 per square foot?
No, $200-300 a pop. The list was picked clean. ;) Best return was packaging up a $200 and $300 side by side and turning it for $26K in two months.
I'm trying to imagine the circumstances that would induce the seller to let them go for 2% of their market value. Care to share?
Sure, there are a couple of Sources here. I assume there is a Source in your area.When the county takes back properties for back taxes, they as you should know go up for auction. If you have never been to one of these, it's a ton of barely organized "Investors" scrambling all over each other, bidding things way too high, and then entirely missing properties.

This last fall I saw a Property worth every bit of $300K go for $720K. Sometimes you just sit there and shake your head. During the 3 day bidding process, because Homeowners are trying to save some properties, they are on and off the bidding list constantly. I was watching a property next door to one of mine. It was on the list, then it was off the list once it was realized it had a mortgage so the bank could have first shot, then it turns out it was on the list when the bank didn't make a play. On top of that, you have to be IN THE ROOM when the property is called. It runs three solid days some 8 hours a day, and you aren't going to be there every second. At least I'm not.

End of the day, the Homeowner was able to salvage the property and then Short Sell it to another investor.

Anything not sold in that process goes to a county agency run by Fred Mertz (That name kills me). Old Fred works Monday and Tuesday only from 8-Noon. Not the greatest window of opportunity.

Fred prices out whatever is left, and you "Bid" on properties. Fred's job is to blow them out the door, get them back on the tax roll making money, so the city is not responsible for their Maintenance.

When I say Bid, I mean be silly in your offer. He generally takes $200-300 for bare property where a house once stood. $8K will get you a structure. I moved too slow 2 years ago, and saw a 4 bedroom house go to another for $9K. As long as you are the only offer, they will take a minimum of what it takes to title it to you. They just want it back on the Tax roll making money long term.

Here is the current list in my Area:

http://www.co.allen.in.us/index.php?option...=319&Itemid=419

If that doesn't work, use this link, and then click property list at the bottom.

http://www.co.allen.in.us/index.php?option...=108&Itemid=419

The items left on the list right now are areas YOU DON'T WANT TO BE IN, Small lots you can't build on (Unless you find the vacant property next to it, which is what I try and do). Anyway, it's pretty picked over right now.

The other way that I have found is that there is an organization in this area called Project Renew. They basically build Jimmy Carter houses. They have a good amount of property donated to them, more than they could humanly build on. They sell of property for $500.00 a pop and use the funds elsewhere. They have a decent list of properties as well.

I would assume that there is something like this in your area. Get the list, drive it. In my area we have a County Property search on the Internet that uses Satellite pictures and gives property size and boundaries.

Make sure it's big enough to build. Or figure out how to know things. The lots I sold for $26K happened because a developer came in and bought the place out to put in a strip Mall. My Property wasn't the key property, but it was the parking area around the back.

 
Found at http://money.cnn.com/2006/02/03/real_estat...tions_for_2006/

It's House price forcasts for 379 Metro areas. Wherever St. George, UT is, it is predicted to have the greatest increase in value in 2006. It is followed by Coeur d'Alene, ID in second. Really? Idaho?

My Market increased in value by 4.4% in 2005 (RIIIIGHTTTT, I live in this market, didn't happen, maybe the ultra high end housing carried us, but the normal house on the market did not increase). Anyway, we are predicted to go up 6.9% for 2006.

What is your market doing?
I'd love to see their 2005 predictions. Off the top of my head, I think they went with mostly predictions of single digit appreciation. I'm pretty sure of this for the DC area anyway. Yet, for DC, 2005 was still gangbusters. I don't believe for one second that DC area homes will lose any value in 06. I do believe appreciate will slow to a near halt, maybe to 2-5%, but it will not go down.
 
I've got a question on zoning:

Lets say there are two properties for sale in a zipcode. Both are raw land. Both are a couple of acres. One is zoned residential with a maximum density of about 6 houses per acre. It is listed for 275K. The second lot is zoned CSC (commerical shopping center) and is about a 1/2 acre smaller than the first lot. The second lot is listed for 1.4 million dollars.

What gives? Is it really that hard to get land rezoned? Or is one owner asking for an ammount that is totally outragous?

If I were to purchase the residential lot, and then request rezoning, how hard would that be to pull off?

 
From my post above about the County owned properties, Just make sure you do due Diligence.

You don't have to worry about leans or any of that, the County guarantees clean title, with everything cleaned up. No encumbrances.

But lets take a look at one of those:

92 2083 5031 1308 Rockhill St

Now I WANTED this property. A block and a half north, I have two side by side Duplexes. This is an area that DOES appreciate. It is in the National Register Historic Neighborhood that I live in as well. There is a large property just to the north that takes up the entire corner, and only has an abandoned boarded up house on the back alley side of the property.

So my Plan was to pick up the 1308 property from the County, then buy the lot just to the north. From there, My area is very good about saving old historic buildings. Currently up for tear down is a 5 unit brick and stucco building with 8 Bedrooms. The deal is that with conditions, they will sell it to you for $1.00, and you have to move it. The cost of moving a three story brick building is out of this world, but I found a $115K grant, and was ready to roll. The building has separate utilities (except water), separate furnaces with A/C, and is FANTASTIC SHAPE. These would be high end Downtown rentals. Make an Absolute killing.

Turns out I couldn't get it together on that lot, and I'm still searching for a better place.

But where I was going is that the 1308 Rockhill property SEEMS like it is a slam dunk. Absolutely worth a ton, and you better jump fast.

The property is 18 feet wide, and some 200 feet deep. Turns out it was originally going to be an Alley for the city that came to the street, but the city abandoned it. You can't build on it, and it's not useful for much more than a Garden. The property immediately to the south that I thought I might be able to sell it to for say a Grand so he could have a bigger yard is a rental, and the owner doesn't care.

I didn't buy it. But if I had, it would be worthless, and I would be responsible for maintaining the lot at my expense or face City Code enforcement fines.

Do your research.

I will say that buying these little "Worthless" plots just off a major street before it gets developed is a windfall. A number of the properties (Look at the list, if it says "BEH", "W of" or something like that, it is an old RR line that was abandoned and turned into property, a city right of way, something. The plot is small and pretty worthless. It costs little to buy ($50.00) and is easy to maintain if you even have to. The person who owns the rest is going to mow your little 10x10 plot because it's harder to avoid it that just mowing it, half the time the guy that owns the rest doesn't even realize that he doesn't own it all, until he goes to sell. ;)

When the developer comes in and needs your 10x10 foot piece because it's part of the greater picture, you make an easy payday.

 
I've got a question on zoning:

Lets say there are two properties for sale in a zipcode. Both are raw land. Both are a couple of acres. One is zoned residential with a maximum density of about 6 houses per acre. It is listed for 275K. The second lot is zoned CSC (commerical shopping center) and is about a 1/2 acre smaller than the first lot. The second lot is listed for 1.4 million dollars.

What gives? Is it really that hard to get land rezoned? Or is one owner asking for an ammount that is totally outragous?

If I were to purchase the residential lot, and then request rezoning, how hard would that be to pull off?
First, figure someone has already tried, or you have an Owner without vision.The process to change zoning is a public forum where the neighbors are notified (Usually through a posted sign on the property) so they can come and complain. The board makes a ruling.

Assuming that it has been tried, go down an get a copy of the minutes, and see what happened, and if there was a simple mistake.

Only your local zoning can answer this for sure (Is there a school or something on the other side?), bu that is the best place to start.

 
Has anyone done the Carlton Sheets series? Thoughts and opinions?
Not a bad starter course, but really not that applicable any more.Some concepts are there for creative financing to get you thinking about the concepts, but the techniques of calling every ad in the paper can lead to frustration.

Also making 100 offers to try and get 1 seems off base.

The topic has its own area on creonline. Check it out if you like.

Carlton Sheets Discussion

 
I've got a question on zoning:

Lets say there are two properties for sale in a zipcode. Both are raw land. Both are a couple of acres. One is zoned residential with a maximum density of about 6 houses per acre. It is listed for 275K. The second lot is zoned CSC (commerical shopping center) and is about a 1/2 acre smaller than the first lot. The second lot is listed for 1.4 million dollars.

What gives? Is it really that hard to get land rezoned? Or is one owner asking for an ammount that is totally outragous?

If I were to purchase the residential lot, and then request rezoning, how hard would that be to pull off?
First, figure someone has already tried, or you have an Owner without vision.The process to change zoning is a public forum where the neighbors are notified (Usually through a posted sign on the property) so they can come and complain. The board makes a ruling.

Assuming that it has been tried, go down an get a copy of the minutes, and see what happened, and if there was a simple mistake.

Only your local zoning can answer this for sure (Is there a school or something on the other side?), bu that is the best place to start.
You can make an offer based on zoning approval, but I prefer to get the information (Lot, Parcel, Grid, etc.) for the Tax Records and call the county about the property. They can tell me about it and if there is a history there.Speaking directly to your question - Land with different usages have different values. Commercial can command more because it can get a bigger return - for example, building a shopping complex rather than a house - so it is worth more.

I would talk to the zoning board, find out what the Master Plan / Comprehensive Plan / Ten Year Plan was for that area and see what they want to put there. Always helps to know if the county will support a rezoning. If they will, jump on it.

Find a commercial broker and put both properties under a contract, hopefully with a long time to close OR an option. Tell the owners that the option is for getting final approval of your project.

Have the commercial broker find an end buyer for both properties and sell to a commercial builder, unless you want to become one..... then pitch the project to a lender and go for it.

 
Can you talk a little about the financing of rental properties?

For instance, do you finance a rental property with something like a 6 month interest only ARM or do you prefer 20 year fixed or 30 year fixed loans? What are the pros and cons to each if this is something thats a personal preference.

What about down payment amounts? Do you try to put no money down or do you look to put something like 35% down?

These are really general questions but if it makes a difference you can apply them to a residential rental property that costs 200k-300k and can be rented out for 1100-1600/month.

Thanks.

 
Can you talk a little about the financing of rental properties?

For instance, do you finance a rental property with something like a 6 month interest only ARM or do you prefer 20 year fixed or 30 year fixed loans? What are the pros and cons to each if this is something thats a personal preference.

What about down payment amounts? Do you try to put no money down or do you look to put something like 35% down?

These are really general questions but if it makes a difference you can apply them to a residential rental property that costs 200k-300k and can be rented out for 1100-1600/month.

Thanks.
Typically investors look for the most creative financing they can find. They put as little of their own money into the property itself, and typically use an interest only or a neg am loan. This allows them to spread their war chest among more properties, as well as keeping it manageable on a monthly basis. I don't know a single investor who uses a 30 year fixed mortgage.
:goodposting:
These are really general questions but if it makes a difference you can apply them to a residential rental property that costs 200k-300k and can be rented out for 1100-1600/month.
No deal here, sorry. Numbers don't work.
 
No deal here, sorry. Numbers don't work.
This was actually part of my question also but I wasn't sure how to explain it. Is there some kind of guideline you use to see if the numbers do "work"?For example, what would you have to be able to rent a condo out for if it cost $200k to buy and didn't need any work done? Lets just say the taxes are 200 a month and maintenace fees are 200 a month. Can you explain what kind of financing you would use and what the cost of the loan would be each month. Are you looking for a certain amount of positive cash flow each month after paying all expenses and getting a low rate COSI or interest only ARM? Or are you just looking to have the rent cover all the expenses and take advantage of tax benefits and appreciation?
 
No deal here, sorry. Numbers don't work.
This was actually part of my question also but I wasn't sure how to explain it. Is there some kind of guideline you use to see if the numbers do "work"?For example, what would you have to be able to rent a condo out for if it cost $200k to buy and didn't need any work done? Lets just say the taxes are 200 a month and maintenace fees are 200 a month. Can you explain what kind of financing you would use and what the cost of the loan would be each month.

Are you looking for a certain amount of positive cash flow each month after paying all expenses and getting a low rate COSI or interest only ARM? Or are you just looking to have the rent cover all the expenses and take advantage of tax benefits and appreciation?
You want your rent to cover the mortgage by a third.Example: $1500 cost to own, need $2,000 rent.

$2,000 = 133.33% of $1500.

Lenders / banks will proportion your rent at 75% vs. your cost to own a property.

75% also allows you 10% for a Property Manager (PM), 10% maintenance, and 5% vacancy.

The 10% for a PM assumes an annual rental. Weekly/monthly rentals cost much more, as much as 50% of the rent.

Another general rule of thumb is the "One percent rule". The rent must equal or exceed 1% of the purchase price to have a shot of breaking even on a property. That goes back to $2,000 on a $200K property. (Note - even Carlton Sheets knows that rule).

Example:

$200K property.

Buy with $180K mortgage at 7.5%. That is $7 x 180 = $1260 a month for principle and interest. Taxes and insurance add on for maybe $240 more. Welcome to $1500.

Now you can mitigate this with an Interest Only (I/O) or Negative Amortization ("Neg Am" as proninja calls it). I like I/O because you're not digging yourself a hole - just putting off paying down the principal amount. You do it for cash flow reasons.

So if you get an I/O loan you might be able to get away with $1300 a month or so, which would get you to a point where you need maybe $1600 rent. That may be workable.

 

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