We have have had a good amount of rain this past week so hopefully the ground is saturated enough to pull them up by hand.Mohawk said:yup. Poison Ivy must go. Gloves, long sleeves, and a shovel will do the trick!
I had a spot under some tress that I tried for years to get some grass to grow. It would take at first then by the end of the season it was dirst again. I bought some edge rock and built a shade garden with plants that thrive in the shade. Been 5 years and it looks great.DA RAIDERS said:I'll ask again. Anyone know of a good shade grass? I've got a portion of my yard that is fairly heavily shaded and grass struggles there. Any ideas?
Where are you guys located? Wondering if it gets too cool in the fall/winter for the grasses to surviveI had a spot under some tress that I tried for years to get some grass to grow. It would take at first then by the end of the season it was dirst again. I bought some edge rock and built a shade garden with plants that thrive in the shade. Been 5 years and it looks great.DA RAIDERS said:I'll ask again. Anyone know of a good shade grass? I've got a portion of my yard that is fairly heavily shaded and grass struggles there. Any ideas?
I'm in Southern California.The Commish said:Where are you guys located? Wondering if it gets too cool in the fall/winter for the grasses to surviveDa Guru said:I had a spot under some tress that I tried for years to get some grass to grow. It would take at first then by the end of the season it was dirst again. I bought some edge rock and built a shade garden with plants that thrive in the shade. Been 5 years and it looks great.DA RAIDERS said:I'll ask again. Anyone know of a good shade grass? I've got a portion of my yard that is fairly heavily shaded and grass struggles there. Any ideas?
Have you tried a "hardy" fescue? Seems like Cali has issues...found this link...maybe it will help?I'm in Southern California.The Commish said:Where are you guys located? Wondering if it gets too cool in the fall/winter for the grasses to surviveDa Guru said:I had a spot under some tress that I tried for years to get some grass to grow. It would take at first then by the end of the season it was dirst again. I bought some edge rock and built a shade garden with plants that thrive in the shade. Been 5 years and it looks great.DA RAIDERS said:I'll ask again. Anyone know of a good shade grass? I've got a portion of my yard that is fairly heavily shaded and grass struggles there. Any ideas?
Thx. I'll check it outHave you tried a "hardy" fescue? Seems like Cali has issues...found this link...maybe it will help?I'm in Southern California.The Commish said:Where are you guys located? Wondering if it gets too cool in the fall/winter for the grasses to surviveDa Guru said:I had a spot under some tress that I tried for years to get some grass to grow. It would take at first then by the end of the season it was dirst again. I bought some edge rock and built a shade garden with plants that thrive in the shade. Been 5 years and it looks great.DA RAIDERS said:I'll ask again. Anyone know of a good shade grass? I've got a portion of my yard that is fairly heavily shaded and grass struggles there. Any ideas?
You either dig them up or spray them dead. Then, in the fall, aerate and throw down some seed. Doing this for 2 - 3 years will probably have you where you want to be.My wife and I bought our first house last month. The yard is beautiful but we have some issues with weeds and large bare spots. I would say that 75% of the yard although green is weeds rather than grass. I want to eliminate the weeds but have no idea where to start and don't want to hire a company. This is our first experience with a yard we own so I would like a permanent solution even if it takes time. Also we have a dog so I don't want to go nuclear on it.
75% is a lot of weeds. Probably best to just wait until the fall, rototiller the whole yard and reseed or sod if you can afford it from scratch.My wife and I bought our first house last month. The yard is beautiful but we have some issues with weeds and large bare spots. I would say that 75% of the yard although green is weeds rather than grass. I want to eliminate the weeds but have no idea where to start and don't want to hire a company. This is our first experience with a yard we own so I would like a permanent solution even if it takes time. Also we have a dog so I don't want to go nuclear on it.
This thread has a lot of good info. I'd read through it.My wife and I bought our first house last month. The yard is beautiful but we have some issues with weeds and large bare spots. I would say that 75% of the yard although green is weeds rather than grass. I want to eliminate the weeds but have no idea where to start and don't want to hire a company. This is our first experience with a yard we own so I would like a permanent solution even if it takes time. Also we have a dog so I don't want to go nuclear on it.
I don't really know the difference. If I rototullier do I just reseed immediately thereafter or do I reseed in the spring of the next year?75% is a lot of weeds. Probably best to just wait until the fall, rototiller the whole yard and reseed or sod if you can afford it from scratch.My wife and I bought our first house last month. The yard is beautiful but we have some issues with weeds and large bare spots. I would say that 75% of the yard although green is weeds rather than grass. I want to eliminate the weeds but have no idea where to start and don't want to hire a company. This is our first experience with a yard we own so I would like a permanent solution even if it takes time. Also we have a dog so I don't want to go nuclear on it.
Reseed right afterwards. How must square footage we talking about? You can get some really nice prices if you go directly to a sod farm. Rototiller is just more effective if you're essentially doing the whole yard over. You'll get a lot better soil/seed contact than just going with the aerating route.I don't really know the difference. If I rototullier do I just reseed immediately thereafter or do I reseed in the spring of the next year?75% is a lot of weeds. Probably best to just wait until the fall, rototiller the whole yard and reseed or sod if you can afford it from scratch.My wife and I bought our first house last month. The yard is beautiful but we have some issues with weeds and large bare spots. I would say that 75% of the yard although green is weeds rather than grass. I want to eliminate the weeds but have no idea where to start and don't want to hire a company. This is our first experience with a yard we own so I would like a permanent solution even if it takes time. Also we have a dog so I don't want to go nuclear on it.
I considered resodding but is like a 10k party. I would prefer to go a less expensive direction.Rototieller is less true?
I'd do it this fall....tear it all up, remove the weeds, then throw seed down. You can either rake it in or top it with peat moss....something to keep the birds from eating the seeds.I don't really know the difference. If I rototullier do I just reseed immediately thereafter or do I reseed in the spring of the next year?75% is a lot of weeds. Probably best to just wait until the fall, rototiller the whole yard and reseed or sod if you can afford it from scratch.My wife and I bought our first house last month. The yard is beautiful but we have some issues with weeds and large bare spots. I would say that 75% of the yard although green is weeds rather than grass. I want to eliminate the weeds but have no idea where to start and don't want to hire a company. This is our first experience with a yard we own so I would like a permanent solution even if it takes time. Also we have a dog so I don't want to go nuclear on it.
I considered resodding but is like a 10k party. I would prefer to go a less expensive direction.Rototieller is less true?
I need to check with a work colleague who recently bought a bunch of sod from a sod farm in terms on what he paid. I think it was something like $.30 per square foot so you'd be looking at around 700 bucks for the sod. Not sure about delivery cost. He picked his up right from the farm.I appreciate the advice. I think this is the direction I'm going to go. It's a smallish front yard 20x20 a decent size back yard 40x40. I want to do it right so that I only need to do it once.
You could easily do that for under a grand's worth of sod.I appreciate the advice. I think this is the direction I'm going to go. It's a smallish front yard 20x20 a decent size back yard 40x40. I want to do it right so that I only need to do it once.
Not sure where you're at, but Xeriscape is great, long-term. But some serious $$$ upfront, I hear.Lightly tossing around the idea of pulling up all the grass and doing something else. LA dept. of water & power will up the payment to $2 per square foot of grass pulled up this summer.
What kind of dethatcher you talking about? I have a pull behind like this one. I throw some cinder blocks on it and wait until a day after some rain and it tears the hell out of the ground. Looks like an absolute mess. I then go over with the mower to suck up all the thatch. Throw some seed down. I'd go over it again with the dethatcher or you can just rake if you have a smaller yard in order to get those seeds into the soil. Getting good soil/seed contact is important. I also have a lawn roller but you'll be ok without one. The real key is water. You have to keep those seeds wet for like 2 weeks straight. The nice thing about having a lawn tractor is just hooking up the various attachments without having to do any real work.What is the consensus on over seeding?
Gonna give it a go in the fall. Will a dethatcher loosen up the soil enough to do the job?
If you think tilling the yard will kill the weeds, think again. They'll just come right back and probably beat out most of the grass seed. I agree with sodding it if you want instant success.I don't really know the difference. If I rototullier do I just reseed immediately thereafter or do I reseed in the spring of the next year?75% is a lot of weeds. Probably best to just wait until the fall, rototiller the whole yard and reseed or sod if you can afford it from scratch.My wife and I bought our first house last month. The yard is beautiful but we have some issues with weeds and large bare spots. I would say that 75% of the yard although green is weeds rather than grass. I want to eliminate the weeds but have no idea where to start and don't want to hire a company. This is our first experience with a yard we own so I would like a permanent solution even if it takes time. Also we have a dog so I don't want to go nuclear on it.
I considered resodding but is like a 10k party. I would prefer to go a less expensive direction.Rototieller is less true?
We just bought this one. Dethatch again after the seed is down? I would never have considered that.What kind of dethatcher you talking about? I have a pull behind like this one. I throw some cinder blocks on it and wait until a day after some rain and it tears the hell out of the ground. Looks like an absolute mess. I then go over with the mower to suck up all the thatch. Throw some seed down. I'd go over it again with the dethatcher or you can just rake if you have a smaller yard in order to get those seeds into the soil. Getting good soil/seed contact is important. I also have a lawn roller but you'll be ok without one. The real key is water. You have to keep those seeds wet for like 2 weeks straight. The nice thing about having a lawn tractor is just hooking up the various attachments without having to do any real work.What is the consensus on over seeding?
Gonna give it a go in the fall. Will a dethatcher loosen up the soil enough to do the job?
Hmmm... Nearly 4 weeks out and I'm now at starting to see some activity of new grass.NewlyRetired said:Well that answers that :(Not one new blade of grass from the 30lb bag of seed.It depends on the type of crab grass control used. Some of the newer formulas will allow for seeds to germinate but most of the base formulas will block seed from growing.After working on my acre of yard for three years on my own, I got tired of the neighbors yards looking like professional ball fields so I decided to use their fertilizer company. 6 yearly treatments will cost me $500, which is only slightly more than me buying enough product to do what they're going to be doing.
Here's my question: they put down the fertilizer, weed control, crab grass control, grub control etc earlier this week. On the invoice, it recommended I spot seed the bare spots, rake and top soil. Once the crab grass control set in, I had a lot of brown spots where there was crab grass. Yesterday I raked all the dead crab grass up and churned the soil. With a lot of rain coming last night and forecasted for later this week, I ended up getting a 30lb bag of seed and spot planted in the areas that I raked up. Will I have a problem with this seed growing? I read to wait 4 months after a crab grass controller, but that doesn't seem feasible.
Thanks for any insight.
Just call the fertilizer company and ask. It is a simple question they can answer quickly for you.
I've never seen that mentioned either, but its either that or rake and just driving the lawn tractor around with the dethacter hooked up is just so much easier.We just bought this one. Dethatch again after the seed is down? I would never have considered that.What kind of dethatcher you talking about? I have a pull behind like this one. I throw some cinder blocks on it and wait until a day after some rain and it tears the hell out of the ground. Looks like an absolute mess. I then go over with the mower to suck up all the thatch. Throw some seed down. I'd go over it again with the dethatcher or you can just rake if you have a smaller yard in order to get those seeds into the soil. Getting good soil/seed contact is important. I also have a lawn roller but you'll be ok without one. The real key is water. You have to keep those seeds wet for like 2 weeks straight. The nice thing about having a lawn tractor is just hooking up the various attachments without having to do any real work.What is the consensus on over seeding?
Gonna give it a go in the fall. Will a dethatcher loosen up the soil enough to do the job?
I've done it a few time following aerating, but I'm pretty skeptical about it doing anything.What is the consensus on over seeding?
Having 3k sf of Zenith Zoysia sod installed later this week. I can't wait to finally see it in place.I'm looking at using Zoysia to redo my lawn. I just checked and there are 14 different kinds. Do you know what type you used?Here is zoysia in the fall. I started with one pallet to see what it was like. Then I brought in another 12 or so. http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2wdd7h4&s=8#.Uz8ng0rD9hG
Zoysia vs Bahia 1 - http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=35kquyx&s=8#.Uz8oM0rD9hE
Zoysia vs Bahia 2 - http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2j1k7rm&s=8#.Uz8odUrD9hE
It's not necessary on a well developed lawn. Always aerate though. In my last house, it was brand new, thus no grass. It took three years of a 50 lbs bag of seed over about .25 acres before the lawn was nice and lush. Battling weeds was the biggest struggle, but got easier each year.What is the consensus on over seeding?
Gonna give it a go in the fall. Will a dethatcher loosen up the soil enough to do the job?
Whoa.So I just came across the notion of a weed torch. Anyone ever use one of these? They look... awesome.
I could pick it up. The front yard is in great shape so really I just need to hammer out the yard. I may hire two ppl to do the grass shaving.I need to check with a work colleague who recently bought a bunch of sod from a sod farm in terms on what he paid. I think it was something like $.30 per square foot so you'd be looking at around 700 bucks for the sod. Not sure about delivery cost. He picked his up right from the farm.I appreciate the advice. I think this is the direction I'm going to go. It's a smallish front yard 20x20 a decent size back yard 40x40. I want to do it right so that I only need to do it once.
Doesn't seem very controlled.So I just came across the notion of a weed torch. Anyone ever use one of these? They look... awesome.
I'd spray then mow a day or two later.Got a small dandelion infestation in my front yard. Should I mow it first then spray or spray then mow?
There is this +/- 10ac lot near my office office that they were using goats to clear out. I recently saw a sign that said "$1000 Reward for information leading to return of goats or arrest of thieves".Bought a goat. #### you, lawn-mowing!
Really? Huh. How about that.There is this +/- 10ac lot near my office office that they were using goats to clear out. I recently saw a sign that said "$1000 Reward for information leading to return of goats or arrest of thieves".Bought a goat. #### you, lawn-mowing!
Seems like a positive!Doesn't seem very controlled.So I just came across the notion of a weed torch. Anyone ever use one of these? They look... awesome.
I've watched the videos on YouTube. My spray tank of Roundup is about 5 times faster than the torch. If you have a big property and need to kill weeds every couple of weeks, the torch is going to be really time consuming. For sidewalk cracks or between pavers, use the Roundup with extended control in the grey bottle.Seems like a positive!Doesn't seem very controlled.So I just came across the notion of a weed torch. Anyone ever use one of these? They look... awesome.
Negative seems to be having to hook up to a propane tank.
Not to discount what anybody here says as they're all good tips, but if you have a small yard, and have grass, but a lot of weeds, consider calling a lawn-care professional to see how much their fertilization/weed control plans will cost you. They DO work. Re-sodding will help with the weeds you have now, but you'll inevitably get more if your lawn isn't healthy, and you'll be watering that sod for a while.My wife and I bought our first house last month. The yard is beautiful but we have some issues with weeds and large bare spots. I would say that 75% of the yard although green is weeds rather than grass. I want to eliminate the weeds but have no idea where to start and don't want to hire a company. This is our first experience with a yard we own so I would like a permanent solution even if it takes time. Also we have a dog so I don't want to go nuclear on it.
I was going to buy a weed torch. Then I was concerned about the greenhouse effect and putting more carbon into the air. So I hit the lawn with Scotts Weed # feed instead.Doesn't seem very controlled.So I just came across the notion of a weed torch. Anyone ever use one of these? They look... awesome.
I got one of these at Harbor Freight. Not very efficient for larger areas, but man...fun to use. It takes longer than a few seconds to incinerate a green weed. I use mine on occasion to clean out between my edging. The edging at my house is just random boulders arranged in a border. Looks nice, but the irregular lines make it a pain to mow and trim around. Weeds grow up between the rocks. This thing will take them out and keep them out for a few weeks.Da Guru said:I was going to buy a weed torch. Then I was concerned about the greenhouse effect and putting more carbon into the air. So I hit the lawn with Scotts Weed # feed instead.shuke said:Doesn't seem very controlled.Black Box said:So I just came across the notion of a weed torch. Anyone ever use one of these? They look... awesome.
Water the heck out of it the 1st 2-3 months. It's slow to root. When I laid sod, I watered 3 times a day. Before work, at noon and right after work.regularguy said:Having 3k sf of Zenith Zoysia sod installed later this week. I can't wait to finally see it in place.I'm looking at using Zoysia to redo my lawn. I just checked and there are 14 different kinds. Do you know what type you used?Here is zoysia in the fall. I started with one pallet to see what it was like. Then I brought in another 12 or so. http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2wdd7h4&s=8#.Uz8ng0rD9hG
Zoysia vs Bahia 1 - http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=35kquyx&s=8#.Uz8oM0rD9hE
Zoysia vs Bahia 2 - http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2j1k7rm&s=8#.Uz8odUrD9hE
I think it basically kills whatever is there at the point of incineration...Existing plant, seeds, roots (depending on how long you hold it there...). The issue is that most things that "keep coming back" come back via plants coming from another location, either via new seeds that blow in or via runners from other areas that maybe you didn't burn.I wonder how the torch would do with more substantial stuff like established privets, vines and crap that keep coming back?
Gotcha. For something that was established and keeps sending up new shoots, I probably need to hold it there for 5 minutes just to burn one out. I'll probably rent a tiller.I think it basically kills whatever is there at the point of incineration...Existing plant, seeds, roots (depending on how long you hold it there...). The issue is that most things that "keep coming back" come back via plants coming from another location, either via new seeds that blow in or via runners from other areas that maybe you didn't burn.I wonder how the torch would do with more substantial stuff like established privets, vines and crap that keep coming back?
Basically, if you have dirt with no grass, you will have some weeds. I've found no way around this personally. Landscape fabric/newspaper helps, but seeds will get on top of it eventually. Even the little area around my A/C condensers, which is 100% gravel has some weeds. I'm about to re-do my fire pit area, laying down 2 layers of 6 Mil black plastic and covering it with 4" of river gravel. I'm sure after a few years of leaves and such falling on the gravel, there'll be enough substrate for weeds to grow there too.