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Lawn Care Tips (1 Viewer)

So everything I have read says that if you are going to aeriate (sp?) the lawn to do it in the late spring early summer where I live. I have not seen anything to actually do this with that isn't pulled behind a riding mower and my lawn isn't big enough to need one of those. The ground is really hard and I will be adding some top soil either in the fall or early spring but thought this might be a good option for this summer.

Any suggestions? Can you rent something to do this at a reasonable price?
Core aeration via a pull-behind machine is usually the best home-solution, but if your yard is really small, you could consider THESE. And folks thought Crocs looked silly. They're spikes, so not going to work as well as a core aerator. I don't think you can do Core without a pull-behind simply due to needing more weight. I load my pull-behind down with 4 cinder blocks, and sometimes I still think it could use more weight. That's not something you'll want to push.
So everything I have read says that if you are going to aeriate (sp?) the lawn to do it in the late spring early summer where I live. I have not seen anything to actually do this with that isn't pulled behind a riding mower and my lawn isn't big enough to need one of those. The ground is really hard and I will be adding some top soil either in the fall or early spring but thought this might be a good option for this summer.

Any suggestions? Can you rent something to do this at a reasonable price?
They have walk behind aerators. I have used one of those for years. Though now, my yard is large enough, I probably need a pull behind. The walk behinds are a workout. Make sure that when you decide to aerate, you water the lawn really well prior to aerating to help soften up the soil.
Thanks for the advice. I hadn't heard of the ones that go on your shoes before and the reviews are pretty mixed. The walk behind ones that I have read about seemed to have the biggest complaint being they are made for short people. I don't mind a workout, but since I am 6'4" I don't know that I want to try that.

Might just pay to have it done although that always bothers me since I have to get the WD40 in order to get my wallet to open. :moneybag:
I'm 6-4...no issues. It'll cost you about 60-70 bucks to rent....go in with a friend or something and rent for the day.

 
What is a professional grade sprayer? I'm being serious, in case that sounds like sarcasm. :mellow:
This is the one I use.
I'm using this gem:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/fimco-15-gallon-trailer-sprayer

I can really lay down the chemicals fast.
Oh yeah? I just ordered this. Check. Mate.
As a Muslim, you'd be amazed at how few people are willing to teach me how to use one of these. :kicksrock:

 
What is a professional grade sprayer? I'm being serious, in case that sounds like sarcasm. :mellow:
This is the one I use.
I'm using this gem:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/fimco-15-gallon-trailer-sprayer

I can really lay down the chemicals fast.
This is more or less what I was looking to get if I continued to DIY my herbicide. I needed a larger tank though. They have ones that don't need the boom to still get a 10'+ spread though, which is nice for getting around trees, etc. I just couldn't justify the storage space needed. My shed is already packed full with the mower, snow blower (used to be 2 of those...), wood chipper, aerator, string trimmer, and 3 edgers (yes...3. Anybody need an edger?) on top of all the normal yard tools, lumber, etc. I can't fit my utility cart in there, so it just rusts outside.

 
NutterButter said:
I know most of these places are franchises, so YMMV. Also, as noted, I have a 2+ acre yard. Applying it myself and doing as good of a job as a ride-on spreader with liquid spray capability just isn't feasible. Liquid herbicide works A LOT better than granules. It would take me ~6 - 40 lb. bags of the granualized fertilizer, which costs over $300. I'm getting professional application and products for ~$350/app. For a smaller yard, it might be more feasible because you probably only need 1 bag, can spread it more accurately, and can use a hand-sprayer for liquid herbicide application. I'd need to buy a tank sprayer to apply, even if I could get the same concentrations...I've looked into it. It's just not worth it.

As I said, YMMV, but in my case, I swear by my pro. My yard looks better than it ever has. I tried for 2 years to make my yard look good, and spent a lot of money and a lot of time trying to DIY. The difference from this time last year till now is flat out amazing for me, but to each his own.
I find that to be the case as well. I got a couple of bottles of concentrated stuff to kill some two very hard to kill weeds as well as post emergent crabgrass killer and the stuff works very well.
Yeah. The concentrate works well. If you blast a weed with that stuff as directed, it almost definitely will die. The thing with the granules are that they actually have to land on and STICK to the weeds to work. It's just not effective. Liquid stuff works very well, but the challenge is application if you have a large yard. I thought about buying a tow-behind 55 gallon tank sprayer at one point, but just decided it was easier to pay someone.
55 gallons :lol: That would be awesome. Does the sprayer generate the pressure for you or do you still have to pump? It usually takes me about 10 gallons to do the front. The back is more spot treatment. I might have to look into something b/c the results I've been getting are far better and I'd like to make it more convenient. I've given up on that Scotts crabgrass preemergent. That stuff is garbage.

 
What is a professional grade sprayer? I'm being serious, in case that sounds like sarcasm. :mellow:
This is the one I use.
I'm using this gem:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/fimco-15-gallon-trailer-sprayer

I can really lay down the chemicals fast.
This is more or less what I was looking to get if I continued to DIY my herbicide. I needed a larger tank though. They have ones that don't need the boom to still get a 10'+ spread though, which is nice for getting around trees, etc. I just couldn't justify the storage space needed. My shed is already packed full with the mower, snow blower (used to be 2 of those...), wood chipper, aerator, string trimmer, and 3 edgers (yes...3. Anybody need an edger?) on top of all the normal yard tools, lumber, etc. I can't fit my utility cart in there, so it just rusts outside.
You need to build yourself a lean to shed. I just built one right on the ground and didn't add the walls as a place to park the tractor.

 
So everything I have read says that if you are going to aeriate (sp?) the lawn to do it in the late spring early summer where I live. I have not seen anything to actually do this with that isn't pulled behind a riding mower and my lawn isn't big enough to need one of those. The ground is really hard and I will be adding some top soil either in the fall or early spring but thought this might be a good option for this summer.

Any suggestions? Can you rent something to do this at a reasonable price?
They have walk behind aerators. I have used one of those for years. Though now, my yard is large enough, I probably need a pull behind. The walk behinds are a workout. Make sure that when you decide to aerate, you water the lawn really well prior to aerating to help soften up the soil.
Good god, I used one of those once and it was a beast to turn around. After doing that about 50 times, I was destroyed. The pull behind is just a joy.

 
55 gallons :lol: That would be awesome. Does the sprayer generate the pressure for you or do you still have to pump? It usually takes me about 10 gallons to do the front. The back is more spot treatment. I might have to look into something b/c the results I've been getting are far better and I'd like to make it more convenient. I've given up on that Scotts crabgrass preemergent. That stuff is garbage.
They have pumps built-in. Most of them come with some sort of alligator clip system where you can basically clip a lead to your tractor to power the pump. Some of the higher-end ones also have agitators that generate constant circulation to keep the chemicals evenly mixed too.

 
This is more or less what I was looking to get if I continued to DIY my herbicide. I needed a larger tank though. They have ones that don't need the boom to still get a 10'+ spread though, which is nice for getting around trees, etc. I just couldn't justify the storage space needed. My shed is already packed full with the mower, snow blower (used to be 2 of those...), wood chipper, aerator, string trimmer, and 3 edgers (yes...3. Anybody need an edger?) on top of all the normal yard tools, lumber, etc. I can't fit my utility cart in there, so it just rusts outside.
You need to build yourself a lean to shed. I just built one right on the ground and didn't add the walls as a place to park the tractor.
I've actually really seriously thought about doing this. My challenge right now is that the one side of my shed is the driveway, and the other side where I'd build it butts pretty close to some trees that ring my property. TECHNICALLY the corner of my shed is already over the easement around my property line, but my neighbor is cool and wouldn't care. I need to clear out all the crap I have on the back side by the trees, and then I'll consider doing this. It'd be a good place to just store stuff that I don't need locked up but would rather not have get rained on (Adirondack chairs, wheelbarrow, etc.)

 
So everything I have read says that if you are going to aeriate (sp?) the lawn to do it in the late spring early summer where I live. I have not seen anything to actually do this with that isn't pulled behind a riding mower and my lawn isn't big enough to need one of those. The ground is really hard and I will be adding some top soil either in the fall or early spring but thought this might be a good option for this summer.

Any suggestions? Can you rent something to do this at a reasonable price?
They have walk behind aerators. I have used one of those for years. Though now, my yard is large enough, I probably need a pull behind. The walk behinds are a workout. Make sure that when you decide to aerate, you water the lawn really well prior to aerating to help soften up the soil.
Good god, I used one of those once and it was a beast to turn around. After doing that about 50 times, I was destroyed. The pull behind is just a joy.
It's a workout for sure...not a huge deal on under a quarter acre though. Turning was the biggest pain.

 
Earlier one of you chemical geeks tried to argue that a lawn IS natural and that grass naturally chokes out the weeds. If that is true then why do you have to use 55 gallons of toxic crap to kill the weeds? All that crap runs all over your property and into the groundwater and runoff and into lakes and streams to poison your groundwater and reservoirs and Mother Nature? Don't you have kids or grandkids that then play in your yard? You think that #### does not get into thier bodies? (or yours?) STOP IT! You are pollluting yourself and all of us with you. Can you say CANCER?

That is all. Back to your spraying.

 
Earlier one of you chemical geeks tried to argue that a lawn IS natural and that grass naturally chokes out the weeds. If that is true then why do you have to use 55 gallons of toxic crap to kill the weeds? All that crap runs all over your property and into the groundwater and runoff and into lakes and streams to poison your groundwater and reservoirs and Mother Nature? Don't you have kids or grandkids that then play in your yard? You think that #### does not get into thier bodies? (or yours?) STOP IT! You are pollluting yourself and all of us with you. Can you say CANCER?

That is all. Back to your spraying.
But weeds are ugly. :shrug:
 
Fat Nick said:
shuke said:
No downsides to mulching whatsoever. You'll still get some clumps if you don't mow often enough, but I just walk around with a blower to disperse them.

Get a Gator blade or a knockoff. Sears actually sells a version. It is red.
Do these Gator blades work well? I've read you can use them as a normal high-lift side-discharge blade. I've considered trying them, but just haven't pulled the trigger. I already have 2 sets of blades so I can have a sharp one handy. Need to justify a 3rd set to the wife somehow...
Yes they work well.

 
So everything I have read says that if you are going to aeriate (sp?) the lawn to do it in the late spring early summer where I live. I have not seen anything to actually do this with that isn't pulled behind a riding mower and my lawn isn't big enough to need one of those. The ground is really hard and I will be adding some top soil either in the fall or early spring but thought this might be a good option for this summer.

Any suggestions? Can you rent something to do this at a reasonable price?
Any local tool rental place should have a walk-behind model. They work great as long as the dirt is not dry/compacted.

 
Earlier one of you chemical geeks tried to argue that a lawn IS natural and that grass naturally chokes out the weeds. If that is true then why do you have to use 55 gallons of toxic crap to kill the weeds? All that crap runs all over your property and into the groundwater and runoff and into lakes and streams to poison your groundwater and reservoirs and Mother Nature? Don't you have kids or grandkids that then play in your yard? You think that #### does not get into thier bodies? (or yours?) STOP IT! You are pollluting yourself and all of us with you. Can you say CANCER?

That is all. Back to your spraying.
First of all, it was me and if using a gallon of weed killer every 3ish years is "chemical geek" then sobeit. I don't have to use a 55 gallon jug for it...again a gallon lasts me almost 3 years. I'll get cancer from all the other crap in our water before I get it from a herbicide. Curious if you've ever had your water tested to see where herbicide traces rank on the "things" in your water. If it's like mine, on the odd occasion that it is even detected, it's at the bottom well below nitrates and arsenic. Have fun with your doom and gloom life though....oh, and for the record, I am pretty sure they were joking about mixing the stuff up in 55 gallon drums, but I think they were serious about having crop dusters :lol:

 
So we are having kids, and my wife doesn't want "un-natural chemicals" in our yard....whatever that means.

Any suggestions for organic/natural weed and feed? I've googled it, but I have no idea what stuff actually works.

 
Anybody have a weed trimmer/edger combo machine that you would recommend?
I got tired of buying the cheap ones from Home Depot and Lowes every couple of years. Three years ago, I decided to splurge on the Stihl KombiMotor system. So far so good...starts every time. I cannot say the same for the cheap ones I had from the big box stores.

 
moved into this house last year, this summer the back patio tiles have so many weeds growing in the cracks.. this is a pain to maintain and have been thinking either lifting up every tile then putting out a weed mat or getting stamped concrete poured in there.. any shark moves here?

 
moved into this house last year, this summer the back patio tiles have so many weeds growing in the cracks.. this is a pain to maintain and have been thinking either lifting up every tile then putting out a weed mat or getting stamped concrete poured in there.. any shark moves here?
Clean out the cracks and lay down polymeric sand (between the cracks).

 
So we are having kids, and my wife doesn't want "un-natural chemicals" in our yard....whatever that means.

Any suggestions for organic/natural weed and feed? I've googled it, but I have no idea what stuff actually works.
Good luck. My wife is the same way, but I just ignore her when it comes to the lawn.

 
moved into this house last year, this summer the back patio tiles have so many weeds growing in the cracks.. this is a pain to maintain and have been thinking either lifting up every tile then putting out a weed mat or getting stamped concrete poured in there.. any shark moves here?
Clean out the cracks and lay down polymeric sand (between the cracks).
This... I do it about every two years. Looks like a fresh paver job

 
moved into this house last year, this summer the back patio tiles have so many weeds growing in the cracks.. this is a pain to maintain and have been thinking either lifting up every tile then putting out a weed mat or getting stamped concrete poured in there.. any shark moves here?
Clean out the cracks and lay down polymeric sand (between the cracks).
This... I do it about every two years. Looks like a fresh paver job
if i already have regular sand in between the pavers can do i blast it out with water and simply replace with polymeric sand?

 
DA RAIDERS said:
Da Guru said:
Ned said:
VA703 said:
moved into this house last year, this summer the back patio tiles have so many weeds growing in the cracks.. this is a pain to maintain and have been thinking either lifting up every tile then putting out a weed mat or getting stamped concrete poured in there.. any shark moves here?
Clean out the cracks and lay down polymeric sand (between the cracks).
This... I do it about every two years. Looks like a fresh paver job
if i already have regular sand in between the pavers can do i blast it out with water and simply replace with polymeric sand?
Why not shop vac out what you can?

 
DA RAIDERS said:
Da Guru said:
Ned said:
VA703 said:
moved into this house last year, this summer the back patio tiles have so many weeds growing in the cracks.. this is a pain to maintain and have been thinking either lifting up every tile then putting out a weed mat or getting stamped concrete poured in there.. any shark moves here?
Clean out the cracks and lay down polymeric sand (between the cracks).
This... I do it about every two years. Looks like a fresh paver job
if i already have regular sand in between the pavers can do i blast it out with water and simply replace with polymeric sand?
The first time I did my front walk I power washed it and blew out all the loose chunks. The stuff that was still packed in tight I left in. I broomed in the poly sand..then you need a leaf blower (On Low) to blow off the excess sand that is on top. I found it worked better when I misted the sand lightly every 10 minutes 2-3 times. Then let dry over night. Make sure it is not going to rain for at least 24 hours. A hard rain will pock up the sand if it is not set.

 
About time to aerate and overseed sparse spots? Or not yet?
Depends where you are. I won't do mine until the middle to end of Sept.
Hmmm...I have read the time to do that in the south is late spring early summer so was going to wait since I didn't have a chance to do it this year. I would think SC would be not too much of a climate change from AR, but you do have more moisture with the ocean right there.

 
About time to aerate and overseed sparse spots? Or not yet?
Depends where you are. I won't do mine until the middle to end of Sept.
Hmmm...I have read the time to do that in the south is late spring early summer so was going to wait since I didn't have a chance to do it this year. I would think SC would be not too much of a climate change from AR, but you do have more moisture with the ocean right there.
Well, the type of grass matters. You want to do it during a time just before an active growth cycle starts. For me, with fescue, there are two active growing times during the year. Spring and late summer / early fall. During the summer it grows but not a ton. During the winter it's dormant. I've always just done it in the fall. The cooler it gets here, the less humid and easier it is to water.

It's pretty humid here through August into Sept. And we can go from a 80 degree day up to a 90+ degree day throughout a week.

 
About time to aerate and overseed sparse spots? Or not yet?
Depends where you are. I won't do mine until the middle to end of Sept.
Hmmm...I have read the time to do that in the south is late spring early summer so was going to wait since I didn't have a chance to do it this year. I would think SC would be not too much of a climate change from AR, but you do have more moisture with the ocean right there.
Well, the type of grass matters. You want to do it during a time just before an active growth cycle starts. For me, with fescue, there are two active growing times during the year. Spring and late summer / early fall. During the summer it grows but not a ton. During the winter it's dormant. I've always just done it in the fall. The cooler it gets here, the less humid and easier it is to water.

It's pretty humid here through August into Sept. And we can go from a 80 degree day up to a 90+ degree day throughout a week.
Okay, that makes sense. I have bermuda so that might be the difference.

Thanks

 
DA RAIDERS said:
Da Guru said:
Ned said:
VA703 said:
moved into this house last year, this summer the back patio tiles have so many weeds growing in the cracks.. this is a pain to maintain and have been thinking either lifting up every tile then putting out a weed mat or getting stamped concrete poured in there.. any shark moves here?
Clean out the cracks and lay down polymeric sand (between the cracks).
This... I do it about every two years. Looks like a fresh paver job
if i already have regular sand in between the pavers can do i blast it out with water and simply replace with polymeric sand?
The first time I did my front walk I power washed it and blew out all the loose chunks. The stuff that was still packed in tight I left in. I broomed in the poly sand..then you need a leaf blower (On Low) to blow off the excess sand that is on top. I found it worked better when I misted the sand lightly every 10 minutes 2-3 times. Then let dry over night. Make sure it is not going to rain for at least 24 hours. A hard rain will pock up the sand if it is not set.
:goodposting:

If you are going to pressure wash first, make sure the pavers are totally dry before you try to spread the poly sand.

 
About time to aerate and overseed sparse spots? Or not yet?
Depends where you are. I won't do mine until the middle to end of Sept.
Hmmm...I have read the time to do that in the south is late spring early summer so was going to wait since I didn't have a chance to do it this year. I would think SC would be not too much of a climate change from AR, but you do have more moisture with the ocean right there.
Well, the type of grass matters. You want to do it during a time just before an active growth cycle starts. For me, with fescue, there are two active growing times during the year. Spring and late summer / early fall. During the summer it grows but not a ton. During the winter it's dormant. I've always just done it in the fall. The cooler it gets here, the less humid and easier it is to water.

It's pretty humid here through August into Sept. And we can go from a 80 degree day up to a 90+ degree day throughout a week.
Okay, that makes sense. I have bermuda so that might be the difference.

Thanks
Yeah, I think bermuda needs warmer soil temps like 65-70 degrees. Been a while since I worked with it, but I think that's right. So late spring / early summer would make sense.

 
moved into this house last year, this summer the back patio tiles have so many weeds growing in the cracks.. this is a pain to maintain and have been thinking either lifting up every tile then putting out a weed mat or getting stamped concrete poured in there.. any shark moves here?
Clean out the cracks and lay down polymeric sand (between the cracks).
Thought about doing this on some pavers we were told rain or water would not drain. Afraid water would pool on top of pavers.

Any truth to this? Polymeric sand is like cementing the cracks, right?

 
moved into this house last year, this summer the back patio tiles have so many weeds growing in the cracks.. this is a pain to maintain and have been thinking either lifting up every tile then putting out a weed mat or getting stamped concrete poured in there.. any shark moves here?
Clean out the cracks and lay down polymeric sand (between the cracks).
Thought about doing this on some pavers we were told rain or water would not drain. Afraid water would pool on top of pavers.

Any truth to this? Polymeric sand is like cementing the cracks, right?
polymeric sand is akin to grouting tile> you are making a tight seal between the masonry so weeds don't grow up and so that water can't flow down. If you are worried about water pooling on your pavers, then that is a separate issue. You need to make sure the slope/fall runs water away and out from where you dont want it to be

 
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Reactions: Ned
Talks to me about weed killer for St.aug. That is pet and kid friendly.

I had sod layed down in December and it must have come from somewhere funky because weird broadleafs are popping up all over. Can I spray Trimec or weed free zone?

Is it safe for the dog / kids once it dries?

 
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Need organic weed killer as well. Wife doesn't want our kids playing on some toxic grass

 
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I'll be 100% honest based on my experience - If you have BAD weeds, organic weed killers aren't going to cut it. Get a professional to come treat it with professional strength stuff. Kill it and kill it dead. Kids/Pets can still play in the yard after a few days, just not right away. You'll spend less overall time and money than trying to go at it with weaker stuff that you'll need to use more frequently.

My :2cents: from my experience trying to revitalize a lawn that was in shambles when I bought the house.

 
If you aren't concerned about the grass around the weed, IE looking for a ground clear sort of solution you can use Vinegar, Salt, Soap and Water. Plenty or recipes out there. I've used them, but the do kill everything...not just the weeds.

 
If you aren't concerned about the grass around the weed, IE looking for a ground clear sort of solution you can use Vinegar, Salt, Soap and Water. Plenty or recipes out there. I've used them, but the do kill everything...not just the weeds.
How would they affect any trees in the area? I have a large area of ground to clear and am looking for the most economical way to get it done.

 
If you aren't concerned about the grass around the weed, IE looking for a ground clear sort of solution you can use Vinegar, Salt, Soap and Water. Plenty or recipes out there. I've used them, but the do kill everything...not just the weeds.
How would they affect any trees in the area? I have a large area of ground to clear and am looking for the most economical way to get it done.
How old/large are the trees? If you avoid spraying the trees, you should be fine. These materials aren't designed to linger like herbicides. You usually have to make sure you're focused on the weed and soak it.

 

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