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Lawn Care Tips (1 Viewer)

[icon] said:
Redoing the back and side yards in the next few weeks. I'm in Zone 2 (Memphis, TN) and I've got decent amount of shade that, combined with drainage issues due to neighbors building up their yard, has my bermuda struggling badly. 

Dropping soil to contour the yard (shooting grades with transit), to properly direct the water out of my yard, then laying down Palisades Zoysia slab sod. 

Any experience with this type of sod? I hear infrequent deep waterings are best... it's pretty shade tolerant... and can handle the occasional mild flooding. 
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I have zero experience with Palisades Zoysia but from what I just read, it should be perfect for your area. Looks like you want to fertilize on a regular basis (3-4lb Nitrogen/yr). Use a balanced analysis (9-9-9, 12-12-12) to help establish roots and firm up leaf blades. Good Luck!

 
shuke said:
How many leaves we talking?  Still there?  
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Still there.  Hopefully I'll get them cleaned up this weekend.  Front yard isn't too bad, but there are a few spots that have a bunch of coverage.  Back yard has a lot.  There are half a dozen big, old trees that dropped a lot of leaves in the fall, and now a lot of dead branches over the winter (I know that doesn't add to the problem, but just a bigger job to clean up).  The back yard was sodded last year, so I am worried what kind of damage I'm going to do to it with the clean up.  I assume it's better to do while it is still dormant than before spring rains really hit and the ground gets softer.

 
Happy spring y'all. 

Any suggestions for grass-like plants for a hilly area in my yard that used to be covered by ivy?  I've removed a ton of low ivy and vines from my trees. I want a no maintenance low height grassy plant that will spread on the bank and provide erosion control and look nicer than a barren bank. 

 
Enjoy the clover!  It is a nitrogen fixing plant! Clover is drought-tolerant, virtually immune to diseases, and distasteful to common turf insects. And it generates its own food by fixing nitrogen in the soil.

 
Built a new house last year and put hydroseed down in the Fall.  The lawn is growing in well.  Already put down fertilizer with the weed and crabgrass preventer.  Question I have now is should I lay more grass seed down in early Spring?  Is that typical?  The lawn is coming in well but there are certainly spots that are more sparse than others.  I just don't know if the lawn will fill out as the grass matures or whether I need to lay more seed to accelerate that process.  I suspect I need to lay more seed otherwise weeds will invade the bare spots.  Also I don't think there is anything such as overseeding that would be bad for a lawn. 

Any thoughts? 

 
Got the Scotts Turf Builder Crabgrass Preventer down a few days ago but walking around noticed some weeds in different spots already sprouting up. Any reason why I can't spray weed killer directly on those after so recently putting that down?

 
Chadstroma said:
Got the Scotts Turf Builder Crabgrass Preventer down a few days ago but walking around noticed some weeds in different spots already sprouting up. Any reason why I can't spray weed killer directly on those after so recently putting that down?
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You can. Just make sure you don't use Round Up. 

 
skillz said:
Built a new house last year and put hydroseed down in the Fall.  The lawn is growing in well.  Already put down fertilizer with the weed and crabgrass preventer.  Question I have now is should I lay more grass seed down in early Spring?  Is that typical?  The lawn is coming in well but there are certainly spots that are more sparse than others.  I just don't know if the lawn will fill out as the grass matures or whether I need to lay more seed to accelerate that process.  I suspect I need to lay more seed otherwise weeds will invade the bare spots.  Also I don't think there is anything such as overseeding that would be bad for a lawn. 

Any thoughts? 
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Won't hurt...it just requires a lot more water in spring/summer than it does during the fall...at least around here it does.

 
Chadstroma said:
Oh... that is because that is a weed and grass killer, right? I was assuming they made a weed killer that was grass ok. I am not that dumb to use a weed and grass killer! :lmao:
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Also ... do not use Neonicotinoids .  They kill pollinators and have been found to cause cancer! Maryland recently became the first state to ban Roundup and other neonicotinoids.

 
Mohawk said:
Also ... do not use Neonicotinoids .  They kill pollinators and have been found to cause cancer! Maryland recently became the first state to ban Roundup and other neonicotinoids.
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How do you tell that they have them? I do have the Roundup 365 that I have used in areas that I want nothing growing. So, that is bad huh?

 
Chadstroma said:
How do you tell that they have them? I do have the Roundup 365 that I have used in areas that I want nothing growing. So, that is bad huh?
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Google "homemade roundup" for things like this.  There are some very MacGuyver solutions out there, but damn if they don't work.  The last one I used had vinegar, dawn dish soap and a couple other household things and worked BY FAR better and faster than roundup.  I haven't found a good home remedy for the situation where I want to kill the weed, but keep the grass areas though.  I use a spot sprayer with the Baeyer line of products.  They seem to work the best with the least amount of product.

 
Chadstroma said:
Got the Scotts Turf Builder Crabgrass Preventer down a few days ago but walking around noticed some weeds in different spots already sprouting up. Any reason why I can't spray weed killer directly on those after so recently putting that down?
Click to expand...
Did the same thing and noticed the same thing. Was going to put down some weed killer this weekend. My weeds are mainly chick weed. Some of it looked like it died off after I cut the grass and put down fertilizer, but it didn't get rid of it all.

 
Killed my front lawn last summer/fall.  Got lazy, was using edger along foundation - cut through sprinkler system wires.  By the time I realized something was wrong, it was too late... Texas heat kills fast apparently.

So I bought a few yards of organice top soil, spread/aerated/seeded over/fertilized.  2/3rds of my lawn is coming back great, but I have a few big patches where no matter what I do.. grass wont come back.  I have reseeded/aerated/etc twice since January.

Any ideas?  Just go buy sod?

 
Read labels!  Homemade stuff works without resorting to carcinogenic poisons produced by Bayer and Monsanto, among many others.  Lots of money in this field.  Use natural remedies when you can!  Google is a wonderful tool to find natural lawn care tips.  My best advice is to get used to some weeds. A weed is not inherently a bad thing.  It is just another plant.  Bees love dandelions for example.   The idea of a perfectly green, 100% grass model we've been sold is a standard we've been commericalized into striving for by Bayer, Monsanto, et. al.

 
The Commish said:
Google "homemade roundup" for things like this.  There are some very MacGuyver solutions out there, but damn if they don't work.  The last one I used had vinegar, dawn dish soap and a couple other household things and worked BY FAR better and faster than roundup.  I haven't found a good home remedy for the situation where I want to kill the weed, but keep the grass areas though.  I use a spot sprayer with the Baeyer line of products.  They seem to work the best with the least amount of product.
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Yea, the main area that I want to keep clear is the dog run. So, this is a by far better option than DEATH chemicals.

 
MattFancy said:
Did the same thing and noticed the same thing. Was going to put down some weed killer this weekend. My weeds are mainly chick weed. Some of it looked like it died off after I cut the grass and put down fertilizer, but it didn't get rid of it all.
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I have no idea the different weeds but didn't really notice much when I put down the Scotts and then just being outside, I noticed several around the yard. Going to attack and kill those damn things this weekend! DIEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!

 
skillz said:
Built a new house last year and put hydroseed down in the Fall.  The lawn is growing in well.  Already put down fertilizer with the weed and crabgrass preventer.  Question I have now is should I lay more grass seed down in early Spring?  Is that typical?  The lawn is coming in well but there are certainly spots that are more sparse than others.  I just don't know if the lawn will fill out as the grass matures or whether I need to lay more seed to accelerate that process.  I suspect I need to lay more seed otherwise weeds will invade the bare spots.  Also I don't think there is anything such as overseeding that would be bad for a lawn. 

Any thoughts? 
Click to expand...


If the grass you planted came back, but is just thin, give it a season if you can.  Overseeding CAN actually be detrimental.  Think about competition for resources.  A good lawn is one with a thick blanket and deep roots.  Deep roots are driven by healthy plants.  If you overseed, you have a TON of small, weak plants fighting for the same resources.  None of them will really get strong.  It'll look nice at first, but they'll die off more quickly in times of stress.  As long as you don't have completely bare spots, let the seed/plant naturally spread and fill the space in.  As long as you don't overstress your lawn, it'll be thick in less than a season usually.  Then, it'll be better next year, etc.

Overseeding isn't usually worth the $$ unless you have major dead patches where there's no grass or less than 10% coverage. 

 
Chadstroma said:
I have no idea the different weeds but didn't really notice much when I put down the Scotts and then just being outside, I noticed several around the yard. Going to attack and kill those damn things this weekend! DIEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!
Click to expand...
Heavy dose of Weed B Gon hose end sprayer for lawn areas.  Roundup concentrate in spray can only diluted half as recommended for non-lawn areas (drive way and gravel ditches).  Pull weeds in garden and flower beds.

 
Fat Nick said:
If the grass you planted came back, but is just thin, give it a season if you can.  Overseeding CAN actually be detrimental.  Think about competition for resources.  A good lawn is one with a thick blanket and deep roots.  Deep roots are driven by healthy plants.  If you overseed, you have a TON of small, weak plants fighting for the same resources.  None of them will really get strong.  It'll look nice at first, but they'll die off more quickly in times of stress.  As long as you don't have completely bare spots, let the seed/plant naturally spread and fill the space in.  As long as you don't overstress your lawn, it'll be thick in less than a season usually.  Then, it'll be better next year, etc.

Overseeding isn't usually worth the $$ unless you have major dead patches where there's no grass or less than 10% coverage. 
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Thanks I appreciate the input.  I think I can let it play out for this year since everything seems to be coming in very well so far.  No need to upset the process unless I really see a need to do so.

 
skillz said:
Built a new house last year and put hydroseed down in the Fall.  The lawn is growing in well.  Already put down fertilizer with the weed and crabgrass preventer.  Question I have now is should I lay more grass seed down in early Spring?  Is that typical?  The lawn is coming in well but there are certainly spots that are more sparse than others.  I just don't know if the lawn will fill out as the grass matures or whether I need to lay more seed to accelerate that process.  I suspect I need to lay more seed otherwise weeds will invade the bare spots.  Also I don't think there is anything such as overseeding that would be bad for a lawn. 

Any thoughts? 
Click to expand...
Seed won't do very well if you put down the crabgrass preventer.  I would wait until fall.

 
Mohawk said:
Also ... do not use Neonicotinoids .  They kill pollinators and have been found to cause cancer! Maryland recently became the first state to ban Roundup and other neonicotinoids.
Click to expand...
Actually, I have Ortho Groundclear. Same neo stuff?

 
Chadstroma said:
Actually, I have Ortho Groundclear. Same neo stuff?
Click to expand...
I am not sure what is in Ortho groundclear.  Sounds like powerful stuff.  Lots of weed killers are obviously strong and use perhaps toxic chemicals.  If you have pets or kids that play in the area you plan to treat, I would be careful about what I put down.  

 
So put down some Scott's Turf Builder with Crabgrass preventer a couple weeks ago. Already seeing some crabgrass pop up. Any other ideas?

 
MattFancy said:
So put down some Scott's Turf Builder with Crabgrass preventer a couple weeks ago. Already seeing some crabgrass pop up. Any other ideas?
Click to expand...
I noticed the new Weed B Gon has crabgrass killer in it.  I mainly use if for dandelions which it works great for.  

 
tonydead said:
I noticed the new Weed B Gon has crabgrass killer in it.  I mainly use if for dandelions which it works great for.  
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Might have to check it out. When I was watering the grass yesterday, I noticed a few strands of crabgrass popping up and I was pulling up any that I saw.

 
The Commish said:
I use the Beyer products...work really well on crabgrass.  Sounds like you didn't get preventer down in time.  
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I guess not. Said to put down between Feb-April, put it down end of March. I had a big problem with crabgrass last summer, so I'm not happy about this start.

 
MattFancy said:
I guess not. Said to put down between Feb-April, put it down end of March. I had a big problem with crabgrass last summer, so I'm not happy about this start.
Click to expand...
Just make sure its actually crabgrass.  For a few years, I thought what I had was crabgrass but it turned out to be dallisgrass which is a real pita to get rid of.  Crabgrass post emergent won't work on that.  If what Commish said doesn't work, Drive works great.

 
I put out some Scott's Bermuda seed three weeks ago.  Not a single one has started growing.  My Bermuda is growing, just not that stuff.

 
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rascal said:
I put out some Scott's Bermuda seed three weeks ago.  Not a single one has started growing.  My Bermuda is growing, just not that stuff.
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Isn't it early for Bermuda? Needs to be pretty warm (between 80-95F) if i remember correctly for it to really start growing, then it consumes whatever's around it.

 
My lawn is very 'bumpy'. What is a good way to even it out? Just put down soil? How would I do that without killing grass?

 
Chadstroma said:
My lawn is very 'bumpy'. What is a good way to even it out? Just put down soil? How would I do that without killing grass?
Click to expand...
That's my biggest problem right now.  Big maple tree roots that the ground likes to settle in between because of the heavy rains.  The only way I know of is to dig up the sod, level out and put the sod back down.  Haven't tackled this problem yet.  Maybe someone has better ideas.  

ETA: I've done this before to relocate a large area of sod, but, never to level out.  I have a depression in the very back of my acherage where this will work, but, in between roots would have to be done by hand.  

 
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tonydead said:
That's my biggest problem right now.  Big maple tree roots that the ground likes to settle in between because of the heavy rains.  The only way I know of is to dig up the sod, level out and put the sod back down.  Haven't tackled this problem yet.  Maybe someone has better ideas.  

ETA: I've done this before to relocate a large area of sod, but, never to level out.  I have a depression in the very back of my acherage where this will work, but, in between roots would have to be done by hand.  
Click to expand...
I have this problem in a few places.  Some are caused by roots.  I don't think there's really anything you can do if there are roots involved that doesn't involve a lot of dirt moving.

If it's just random unevenness, I've found two things help - Regular aerating, which gives the high spots some space to compress into, and using a lawn roller behind my mower.  Neither seem to be permanent fixes.  Usually after a year or two, it'll come back.  I think it's usually caused by drainage.

 
Fat Nick said:
skillz said:
Built a new house last year and put hydroseed down in the Fall.  The lawn is growing in well.  Already put down fertilizer with the weed and crabgrass preventer.  Question I have now is should I lay more grass seed down in early Spring?  Is that typical?  The lawn is coming in well but there are certainly spots that are more sparse than others.  I just don't know if the lawn will fill out as the grass matures or whether I need to lay more seed to accelerate that process.  I suspect I need to lay more seed otherwise weeds will invade the bare spots.  Also I don't think there is anything such as overseeding that would be bad for a lawn. 

Any thoughts? 
Click to expand...


If the grass you planted came back, but is just thin, give it a season if you can.  Overseeding CAN actually be detrimental.  Think about competition for resources.  A good lawn is one with a thick blanket and deep roots.  Deep roots are driven by healthy plants.  If you overseed, you have a TON of small, weak plants fighting for the same resources.  None of them will really get strong.  It'll look nice at first, but they'll die off more quickly in times of stress.  As long as you don't have completely bare spots, let the seed/plant naturally spread and fill the space in.  As long as you don't overstress your lawn, it'll be thick in less than a season usually.  Then, it'll be better next year, etc.

Overseeding isn't usually worth the $$ unless you have major dead patches where there's no grass or less than 10% cove
Click to expand...
Problem is... the crabgrass preventer will also prevent regular grass seed from sprouting... for about 6-8 weeks.  Laying down seed now will be a waste.

 
Fat Nick said:
I have this problem in a few places.  Some are caused by roots.  I don't think there's really anything you can do if there are roots involved that doesn't involve a lot of dirt moving.

If it's just random unevenness, I've found two things help - Regular aerating, which gives the high spots some space to compress into, and using a lawn roller behind my mower.  Neither seem to be permanent fixes.  Usually after a year or two, it'll come back.  I think it's usually caused by drainage.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I'm going to be moving dirt, the lawn roller doesn't do anything for me.  The more I think about it, I've got two large areas I can flatten out pretty quickly and easily by peeling back the sod and hauling in an few yards of topsoil.  The area around the maple trees I'm going to have to do by hand. 

 
NutterButter said:
Just make sure its actually crabgrass.  For a few years, I thought what I had was crabgrass but it turned out to be dallisgrass which is a real pita to get rid of.  Crabgrass post emergent won't work on that.  If what Commish said doesn't work, Drive works great.
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I'll second Drive xlr8. It it's not a pre-emergent but if it's already there it will nuke it without harming the grass.

 
Keerock said:
Problem is... the crabgrass preventer will also prevent regular grass seed from sprouting... for about 6-8 weeks.  Laying down seed now will be a waste.
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This is a great catch Keerock - I didn't even bridge that he put down crabgrass preemergent.  Any preemergent will keep the seed from sprouting.

 
Fat Nick said:
I have this problem in a few places.  Some are caused by roots.  I don't think there's really anything you can do if there are roots involved that doesn't involve a lot of dirt moving.

If it's just random unevenness, I've found two things help - Regular aerating, which gives the high spots some space to compress into, and using a lawn roller behind my mower.  Neither seem to be permanent fixes.  Usually after a year or two, it'll come back.  I think it's usually caused by drainage.
Click to expand...
I think it is a drainage thing or maybe snow... never had an issue in California. Basically, in California as long as you give the grass water it grows, is green and the lawn is even- I never used anything on our lawn in terms of weed and grow etc. (this was back when California had some water to use on lawns)

Now in Illinois, there is a whole science beyond keeping your lawn look good. Weed and grow (different kinds for different seasons), weeding, aerating, compressing..... etc. Geez.

 
Keerock said:
Problem is... the crabgrass preventer will also prevent regular grass seed from sprouting... for about 6-8 weeks.  Laying down seed now will be a waste.
Click to expand...
Ugh, what a rookie mistake I made.  I wanted to fill in some bare spots, but now I can't.

 
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