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andy_b

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Speaking of dogs, anyone know of anything that helps difuse those burn spots from them going in the same area over and over again?

Any pet store sells pills that you can give the dogs that helps with the pee burn spots.
I believe those things are a scam. Only way to prevent this is more frequent watering.
I have my sprinkler set to water Mon/Wed/Fri for about 15 minutes per zone. Should I go to every day once my new lawn comes in? I have 2 big dogs (Rottweiler and Yellow Lab)
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i could have skimmed over the section but anyone have a preferece on bagging v. mulching the blades. i have st. aug so i mainly bag, just because the stuff gets so high. ive heard arguments either way.

Mulch definitely. I've never heard a good reason to bag.
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i could have skimmed over the section but anyone have a preferece on bagging v. mulching the blades. i have st. aug so i mainly bag, just because the stuff gets so high. ive heard arguments either way.

Mulch definitely. I've never heard a good reason to bag.
thanks, i think looks are about the only reason to bag. mulching makes things much easier too. done
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Speaking of dogs, anyone know of anything that helps difuse those burn spots from them going in the same area over and over again?

Any pet store sells pills that you can give the dogs that helps with the pee burn spots.
I believe those things are a scam.

Only way to prevent this is more frequent watering.

I have my sprinkler set to water Mon/Wed/Fri for about 15 minutes per zone. Should I go to every day once my new lawn comes in? I have 2 big dogs (Rottweiler and Yellow Lab)
You need to water right after they pee on the lawn....especially in the morning. And you need to specifically water the exact spot they peed on. 3-4 cups of water on each spot should be fine. Following your dog around after they pee with a watering can does have some level of lunacy though.

There is no product that works perfectly. I've tried them all. The best success I had was with Dog Rocks.

http://www.dogrocks.org/

The problem is my dog would take the rocks out of his bowl. I gave my leftover rocks to a friend with a Lab and she thought it was a significant improvement. My experience with Dog Rocks was that the spots were reduced by 50% or so...I have a German Shepherd for what it is worth. In the end I have a big yard and just decided that yellow spots were something that were part of dog ownership.

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i could have skimmed over the section but anyone have a preferece on bagging v. mulching the blades. i have st. aug so i mainly bag, just because the stuff gets so high. ive heard arguments either way.

Mulch definitely. I've never heard a good reason to bag.
thanks, i think looks are about the only reason to bag. mulching makes things much easier too. done
You shouldn't be able to see the clippings if you have the proper mower and blade. If your mower is leaving clumps on top of the grass then that is definitely not good and I would bag until you upgrage or mow more often.

Also, get a blad that looks like this.

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i could have skimmed over the section but anyone have a preferece on bagging v. mulching the blades. i have st. aug so i mainly bag, just because the stuff gets so high. ive heard arguments either way.

I touched on this in the first post in the thread.There is no right answer and its a topic that confuses the group of people who think "always mulch" . There are many people who have no idea what they are doing when they mulch and actually do more harm than good to their lawns. Edited by andy_b
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i could have skimmed over the section but anyone have a preferece on bagging v. mulching the blades. i have st. aug so i mainly bag, just because the stuff gets so high. ive heard arguments either way.

Mulch definitely. I've never heard a good reason to bag.
thanks, i think looks are about the only reason to bag. mulching makes things much easier too. done
You shouldn't be able to see the clippings if you have the proper mower and blade. If your mower is leaving clumps on top of the grass then that is definitely not good and I would bag until you upgrage or mow more often.

Also, get a blad that looks like this.

what's the difference?
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i could have skimmed over the section but anyone have a preferece on bagging v. mulching the blades. i have st. aug so i mainly bag, just because the stuff gets so high. ive heard arguments either way.

Mulch definitely. I've never heard a good reason to bag.
thanks, i think looks are about the only reason to bag. mulching makes things much easier too. done
You shouldn't be able to see the clippings if you have the proper mower and blade. If your mower is leaving clumps on top of the grass then that is definitely not good and I would bag until you upgrage or mow more often.

Also, get a blad that looks like this.

what's the difference?
Between what?
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Speaking of dogs, anyone know of anything that helps difuse those burn spots from them going in the same area over and over again?

Any pet store sells pills that you can give the dogs that helps with the pee burn spots.
I believe those things are a scam.

Only way to prevent this is more frequent watering.

I have my sprinkler set to water Mon/Wed/Fri for about 15 minutes per zone. Should I go to every day once my new lawn comes in? I have 2 big dogs (Rottweiler and Yellow Lab)
You need to water right after they pee on the lawn....especially in the morning. And you need to specifically water the exact spot they peed on. 3-4 cups of water on each spot should be fine. Following your dog around after they pee with a watering can does have some level of lunacy though.

There is no product that works perfectly. I've tried them all. The best success I had was with Dog Rocks.

http://www.dogrocks.org/

The problem is my dog would take the rocks out of his bowl. I gave my leftover rocks to a friend with a Lab and she thought it was a significant improvement. My experience with Dog Rocks was that the spots were reduced by 50% or so...I have a German Shepherd for what it is worth. In the end I have a big yard and just decided that yellow spots were something that were part of dog ownership.

Clearly the bolded won't be happening.I guess I'm just going to have some yellow spots as well.
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I put down the Halts crabgrass fertilizer four weeks ago. I had every intention to rent an aerator and run that over the lawn but I got lazy and skipped it. Really regretting it now, but I don't want to screw up the efficacy of the crabgrass treatment. How long do I have to wait, and is it even worth doing mid May or June or should I just wait until Fall. I live in Boston.

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There is a misconception that the dog's urine has a high ph balance and that's why it kills grass. In reality, the harmful nutrient that is in dog uring is nitrogen. Sound familiar? It's the very same thing that Scott's puts in it's fertilizer to make your grass green and beautiful. The problem with dog urine is that it has a very concentrated amount of nitrogen in a very small area. As it sinks into the soil, it goes deep, but also wide. As it disperses out, it's concentration is lower and actually impoves your grass. But in the middle, it's too strong and kills it. That's why if you look at teh grass immediately surrounding the dead spot caused by your dog, it is a very lush, dark green.

I inherited a beautiful lawn when I bought my house in 2002. Unfortunately, my female golden retriever was leaving horrible pee burns everywhere. I tried the pills that were supposed to help (they are a ripoff), I tried following her around with a hose and watering where she went, and I tried using a sprinkler to constantly water the entire lawn. Nothing worked, so I went to plan B. I retrained my dog to go in a specific area. It is an area that has small white pebbles. It was quite a battle and caused my dog anxiety. She was soo confused as to why the grass was suddenly "bad". But after a two month battle, she adapted and I haven't had a pee burn in four years.

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I put down the Halts crabgrass fertilizer four weeks ago. I had every intention to rent an aerator and run that over the lawn but I got lazy and skipped it. Really regretting it now, but I don't want to screw up the efficacy of the crabgrass treatment. How long do I have to wait, and is it even worth doing mid May or June or should I just wait until Fall. I live in Boston.

Don't even bother. Hit it next spring.
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I have a bunch of patches of clovers. What is the best way to get rid of this? I already used the scotts w/crabgrass preventer. What is the best way for me to get rid of the clovers and replace with grass? Reseed in the fall or do i have to dig up the clovers and start anew with a patch of some sort? TIA

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I have a bunch of patches of clovers. What is the best way to get rid of this? I already used the scotts w/crabgrass preventer. What is the best way for me to get rid of the clovers and replace with grass? Reseed in the fall or do i have to dig up the clovers and start anew with a patch of some sort? TIA

Weed B Gone
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I have a bunch of patches of clovers. What is the best way to get rid of this? I already used the scotts w/crabgrass preventer. What is the best way for me to get rid of the clovers and replace with grass? Reseed in the fall or do i have to dig up the clovers and start anew with a patch of some sort? TIA

http://foragesoftexas.tamu.edu/labels/weedmaster.pdf
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I have a bunch of patches of clovers. What is the best way to get rid of this? I already used the scotts w/crabgrass preventer. What is the best way for me to get rid of the clovers and replace with grass? Reseed in the fall or do i have to dig up the clovers and start anew with a patch of some sort? TIA

Weed B Gone
Ok. This might be a stupid question, but I assume that I'll have to reseed or use the Scott's patch afterwards, right? Also, if I already used the Scotts step 1 with crabgrass control about 1 month ago, new seeds won't grow because I already fertilized, correct?
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I have a bunch of patches of clovers. What is the best way to get rid of this? I already used the scotts w/crabgrass preventer. What is the best way for me to get rid of the clovers and replace with grass? Reseed in the fall or do i have to dig up the clovers and start anew with a patch of some sort? TIA

I had the same problem last year. Tried everything sold at HD/Lowes. Nothing made a dent. Clover is extremely resilient. I ended up going to a farm and fleet and bought Gordons LV400. Wiped it out in nothing flat, without harming the grass. Its 65% 2-4-D (the active weed killer ingredient), compared to .1% in Weed B Gone. Edited by Random
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I have a bunch of patches of clovers. What is the best way to get rid of this? I already used the scotts w/crabgrass preventer. What is the best way for me to get rid of the clovers and replace with grass? Reseed in the fall or do i have to dig up the clovers and start anew with a patch of some sort? TIA

Weed B Gone
Ok. This might be a stupid question, but I assume that I'll have to reseed or use the Scott's patch afterwards, right? Also, if I already used the Scotts step 1 with crabgrass control about 1 month ago, new seeds won't grow because I already fertilized, correct?
about another 2-4 weeks you can plant grass if need be
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I have a bunch of patches of clovers. What is the best way to get rid of this? I already used the scotts w/crabgrass preventer. What is the best way for me to get rid of the clovers and replace with grass? Reseed in the fall or do i have to dig up the clovers and start anew with a patch of some sort? TIA

Spot spray with a weedkiller that is safe for lawns. I prefer the Bayer brand, although I know Ortho makes a special one that is especially for clover/chickweed/creeping charlie.
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I have a bunch of patches of clovers. What is the best way to get rid of this? I already used the scotts w/crabgrass preventer. What is the best way for me to get rid of the clovers and replace with grass? Reseed in the fall or do i have to dig up the clovers and start anew with a patch of some sort? TIA

Weed B Gone
Ok. This might be a stupid question, but I assume that I'll have to reseed or use the Scott's patch afterwards, right? Also, if I already used the Scotts step 1 with crabgrass control about 1 month ago, new seeds won't grow because I already fertilized, correct?
No, you just have to get one that won't harm lawns. With clover you might have to hit it more often so some of the grass may die, but you can reseed in the fall if needed.
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We had a ton of rain in Chicago the last week or so, and in my front yard, water pools in one area. All of the sudden, I've got this stuff popping up all over the lawn. Weed B Gone doesnt seem to be working. Anyone ever deal with this "Wild Madder" ? Easy to pluck, but there is a ton of this stuff growing on my otherwise healthy lawn.

Wild Madder weed

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We had a ton of rain in Chicago the last week or so, and in my front yard, water pools in one area. All of the sudden, I've got this stuff popping up all over the lawn. Weed B Gone doesnt seem to be working. Anyone ever deal with this "Wild Madder" ? Easy to pluck, but there is a ton of this stuff growing on my otherwise healthy lawn.

Wild Madder weed

You really haven't given the weed killer much of a chance. How many times have you sprayed?
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We had a ton of rain in Chicago the last week or so, and in my front yard, water pools in one area. All of the sudden, I've got this stuff popping up all over the lawn. Weed B Gone doesnt seem to be working. Anyone ever deal with this "Wild Madder" ? Easy to pluck, but there is a ton of this stuff growing on my otherwise healthy lawn.

Wild Madder weed

You really haven't given the weed killer much of a chance. How many times have you sprayed?
I hit it pretty good with the Weed B Gone through the hose once 3 days ago. I thought thats all it would take. Maybe I'll wait til we get a few dry days coming up and hit it again. This stuff is growing and spreading like wild fire by the day.. never had this stuff before.
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I have a bunch of patches of clovers. What is the best way to get rid of this? I already used the scotts w/crabgrass preventer. What is the best way for me to get rid of the clovers and replace with grass? Reseed in the fall or do i have to dig up the clovers and start anew with a patch of some sort? TIA

Weed B Gone
Ok. This might be a stupid question, but I assume that I'll have to reseed or use the Scott's patch afterwards, right? Also, if I already used the Scotts step 1 with crabgrass control about 1 month ago, new seeds won't grow because I already fertilized, correct?
No, you just have to get one that won't harm lawns. With clover you might have to hit it more often so some of the grass may die, but you can reseed in the fall if needed.
Thanks. But once the clover is gone, won't there be nothing left in these patches? Or does grass usually grow with it?
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About to mow for the first time (we just bought our first house) and I have a question about length. I've read multiple times how it's good to mow at the max height the mower allows, but can I mow my first few times in the spring (in NY) low to create a uniform height throughout as some areas are taller than others?

Some areas are quite tall, should I mow once at a high setting to prevent the creation of too much mulch and then a few times at a lower height for the uniformity?

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About to mow for the first time (we just bought our first house) and I have a question about length. I've read multiple times how it's good to mow at the max height the mower allows, but can I mow my first few times in the spring (in NY) low to create a uniform height throughout as some areas are taller than others?Some areas are quite tall, should I mow once at a high setting to prevent the creation of too much mulch and then a few times at a lower height for the uniformity?

HEre's what I do concerning blade length. For starters, you have to understand that to support a short blad, the grass can survive on short roots. Therefore, when you keep your grass higher (say, 2.5-3.0 inches), the roots grow deeper. Obviously, this is a good thing. Long blades of grass tend to have a stronger, deeper root system. That's important during long periods of extreme heat and/or lack of rain.As for mowing a bit shorter from time to time, I pay attention to teh weather forecast. If I see that we're about to come upon a two or three day period with a lot of rain, I have no problem going a bit shorter, knowing that the blades won't burn and that it will receive ample water.As for your question regarding the high areas, yes, it is advisible to cut it by making two passes. Remember, you never want to cut off more than a third of the blade at a time. So, if you have areas that are six inches high, and cut it down to three, it is bad for the grass. You can cut it all to 4 inches and redo it in a day or two, or make both passes in the same day. I usually wait a day or two.
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There is a misconception that the dog's urine has a high ph balance and that's why it kills grass. In reality, the harmful nutrient that is in dog uring is nitrogen. Sound familiar? It's the very same thing that Scott's puts in it's fertilizer to make your grass green and beautiful. The problem with dog urine is that it has a very concentrated amount of nitrogen in a very small area. As it sinks into the soil, it goes deep, but also wide. As it disperses out, it's concentration is lower and actually impoves your grass. But in the middle, it's too strong and kills it. That's why if you look at teh grass immediately surrounding the dead spot caused by your dog, it is a very lush, dark green.

I inherited a beautiful lawn when I bought my house in 2002. Unfortunately, my female golden retriever was leaving horrible pee burns everywhere. I tried the pills that were supposed to help (they are a ripoff), I tried following her around with a hose and watering where she went, and I tried using a sprinkler to constantly water the entire lawn. Nothing worked, so I went to plan B. I retrained my dog to go in a specific area. It is an area that has small white pebbles. It was quite a battle and caused my dog anxiety. She was soo confused as to why the grass was suddenly "bad". But after a two month battle, she adapted and I haven't had a pee burn in four years.

:POWERPOSTING:
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We had a ton of rain in Chicago the last week or so, and in my front yard, water pools in one area. All of the sudden, I've got this stuff popping up all over the lawn. Weed B Gone doesnt seem to be working. Anyone ever deal with this "Wild Madder" ? Easy to pluck, but there is a ton of this stuff growing on my otherwise healthy lawn.

Wild Madder weed

You really haven't given the weed killer much of a chance. How many times have you sprayed?
I hit it pretty good with the Weed B Gone through the hose once 3 days ago. I thought thats all it would take. Maybe I'll wait til we get a few dry days coming up and hit it again. This stuff is growing and spreading like wild fire by the day.. never had this stuff before.
You used the stuff that you hook up to the hose? I've never found that to be effective. Get the concentrate and a weed sprayer.
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About to mow for the first time (we just bought our first house) and I have a question about length. I've read multiple times how it's good to mow at the max height the mower allows, but can I mow my first few times in the spring (in NY) low to create a uniform height throughout as some areas are taller than others?Some areas are quite tall, should I mow once at a high setting to prevent the creation of too much mulch and then a few times at a lower height for the uniformity?

Just mow high. It will look uneven for a little while but it will even out after a few mows.
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As for your question regarding the high areas, yes, it is advisible to cut it by making two passes. Remember, you never want to cut off more than a third of the blade at a time. So, if you have areas that are six inches high, and cut it down to three, it is bad for the grass. You can cut it all to 4 inches and redo it in a day or two, or make both passes in the same day. I usually wait a day or two.

I think cutting it twice in the same day kind of goes against the whole "never take off more than a third" rule, although I may be wrong. I'd wait two days for a second pass.
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I have a bunch of patches of clovers. What is the best way to get rid of this? I already used the scotts w/crabgrass preventer. What is the best way for me to get rid of the clovers and replace with grass? Reseed in the fall or do i have to dig up the clovers and start anew with a patch of some sort? TIA

Weed B Gone
Ok. This might be a stupid question, but I assume that I'll have to reseed or use the Scott's patch afterwards, right? Also, if I already used the Scotts step 1 with crabgrass control about 1 month ago, new seeds won't grow because I already fertilized, correct?
I guess it depends on how big the "patch" is.....I get clover as you do on occasion, and treat my lawn....the weed dies and the grass underneth takes over the area the clover was beginning to take over. It all depends on what is underneith the clover/weed you are trying to kill I suppose.
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As for your question regarding the high areas, yes, it is advisible to cut it by making two passes. Remember, you never want to cut off more than a third of the blade at a time. So, if you have areas that are six inches high, and cut it down to three, it is bad for the grass. You can cut it all to 4 inches and redo it in a day or two, or make both passes in the same day. I usually wait a day or two.

I think cutting it twice in the same day kind of goes against the whole "never take off more than a third" rule, although I may be wrong. I'd wait two days for a second pass.
Yeah, I agree. That's why I usually wait a day or two. The only exception being when my schedule is full and I know I won;t get another chance in the next four or five days, then I'll do teh second pass right away. It's not ideal, but it's better than one pass where you're cutting off half teh blad. If for no other reason, the mulch is too plentiful and leaves clumps of greass all over the place.
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Let's get some numbers here. I measured mine. Typical setting has deck 2-1/4" off the ground which puts the blade at about 3-1/2" high. My highest setting puts the deck at 3-1/4" high for cutting height of about 4-1/2" high. Sounds high, but it looks good. Afraid it's going to look out of control 4 days after I cut, though.

Decided to split the difference and see how it plays out. It was already looking a little shaggy after two days.
Here is my lawn 4 days after cutting. Does it look too unkempt at this height?
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Let's get some numbers here. I measured mine. Typical setting has deck 2-1/4" off the ground which puts the blade at about 3-1/2" high. My highest setting puts the deck at 3-1/4" high for cutting height of about 4-1/2" high. Sounds high, but it looks good. Afraid it's going to look out of control 4 days after I cut, though.

Decided to split the difference and see how it plays out. It was already looking a little shaggy after two days.
Here is my lawn 4 days after cutting. Does it look too unkempt at this height?
This is a GREAT question. Growing up my Dad had us mowing the lawn every 3rd day and keeping it relatively short, so in my mind your lawn is totally shaggy! But the reality is I think it looks very good and full - while I would have a hard time convincing myself to keep my lawn that long thanks to the insanity of my Dad, I think it looks very good.
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Let's get some numbers here. I measured mine. Typical setting has deck 2-1/4" off the ground which puts the blade at about 3-1/2" high. My highest setting puts the deck at 3-1/4" high for cutting height of about 4-1/2" high. Sounds high, but it looks good. Afraid it's going to look out of control 4 days after I cut, though.

Decided to split the difference and see how it plays out. It was already looking a little shaggy after two days.
Here is my lawn 4 days after cutting. Does it look too unkempt at this height?
This is a GREAT question. Growing up my Dad had us mowing the lawn every 3rd day and keeping it relatively short, so in my mind your lawn is totally shaggy! But the reality is I think it looks very good and full - while I would have a hard time convincing myself to keep my lawn that long thanks to the insanity of my Dad, I think it looks very good.
Here's the deal, right now your neighbor with his scalped2 inch grass probably has a nicer looking lawn than you. But underneath, you have a much stronger root system. Come July and August, when ninety degree temperatures are common and rainful is scarce, your grass will remain greener way longer than his.

Like I said earlier, if you see a weather forecast that calls for a lot of rain over a 4 or 5 day span in the near future, you can lower the mower-blades a little bit. Play it by ear. Obviously, on a very hot day or when they are calling for clear skies for the next several days, you want to cut it higher.

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Let's get some numbers here. I measured mine. Typical setting has deck 2-1/4" off the ground which puts the blade at about 3-1/2" high. My highest setting puts the deck at 3-1/4" high for cutting height of about 4-1/2" high. Sounds high, but it looks good. Afraid it's going to look out of control 4 days after I cut, though.

Decided to split the difference and see how it plays out. It was already looking a little shaggy after two days.
Here is my lawn 4 days after cutting. Does it look too unkempt at this height?
I don't think so, but my wife would disagree (she prefers putting green scalped).

:tinfoilhat:

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Let's get some numbers here. I measured mine. Typical setting has deck 2-1/4" off the ground which puts the blade at about 3-1/2" high. My highest setting puts the deck at 3-1/4" high for cutting height of about 4-1/2" high. Sounds high, but it looks good. Afraid it's going to look out of control 4 days after I cut, though.

Decided to split the difference and see how it plays out. It was already looking a little shaggy after two days.
Here is my lawn 4 days after cutting. Does it look too unkempt at this height?
The lawn itself looks great and keeping it high is awesome.

Myself I would probably cut at that height and just take a little off to neeten it up. This usually means you have to cut more often. The only bad part of keeping a lawn high is eventually you get busy and your weather doesn't allow you to cut and it can get out of control pretty quickly.

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Lots of good advice here, but I did not see anyone with my lawn problems.

We just bought a house in Central Florida and the grass in front is very patchy. The grass on the side and back is practically nonexistent, instead I have sand. There is some grass growing through the sand but not much. Also there was about 4-5 years worth of oak leaves covering everything. I tried to rake it but realized that raking could take years. I tried mowing and bagging the leaves, but the rear bag fill up in two (2) feet. I emptied the damn thing 4 times in ten linear feet. So I decided just to mulch it. I have mowed twice and I am starting to see more grass and fewer leaves. I have been watering on the two days a week I am allowed, and I am hoping that the grass there will just eventually spread out. Today, after work, I am going to Home Depot to buy some St. Augustine plugs to see if that will help. Any advice will be appreciated.

I have practically no more money to purchase anything for the lawn so I am going to have to make do with alternative methods. I thank that I am really looking at a couple years before I have a decent lawn.

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