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Buying a Used Car (1 Viewer)

Judge Smails

Footballguy
I remember when buying a used car was a grinding experience. Not only did you have to try to avoid getting fleeced by used car salesmen, you had to make sure it wasn't a lemon.

Bought a used car for my daughter yesterday. Total breeze. Process actually took a month or two for her to get realistic (no, you're not getting a 350 horsepower Infiniti Coupe) and then find a couple of models that worked for the both of us. After going through the models she liked, we settled on the Mazda3 s Grand Touring Sedan. Did a lot of research on the car, and reviews were raving in terms of value, performance, etc. Then I checked on safety, and it passed in spades with airbags all around.

Then I went shopping on all sites. Cars.com, Autotrader, even EBay (Craigslist was useless to me). I've always liked to buy 2 year old cars with low miles. I checked locally and nationally, pretty much every car advertised for that model in the U.S. Then checked blue book (though I don't go buy that too much - really doesn't matter as dealers will go lower than even wholesale if they got a great deal on the trade-in). Yesterday was buying day. Found 2 cars that matched our specs, down to color and trim package. One in our hometown, one an hour away. Both reasonably priced, and just lowered for Labor Day sales events. While parked outside my hometown dealer, I called the Internet/Fleet managers directly and told them I was buying a car today, and what my other option was (they could look it up online themselves to see the competition). I asked for their best price. I was amazed. Both dropped 3 grand on the phone. Test drove the car close to home and it was way too loud, the low profile tires looked cool but noise/ride suffered way too much. Daughter still wanted the car, though she admitted the road noise wasn't great.

So we went to dealer B, who had already called me back while I was at dealer A. He had the car pulled up and waiting for us. Opened it up, turned it on, test drove. Night and day - beautiful ride, like new, only 13K miles on it. Had Carfax printed out, single owner, 11 months old, perfect.

Went in to finalize the deal. I told him that I wanted to agree on the price, I would pay taxes/license/registration but I wouldn't pay $1 of BS fees (learned that from carbuyingtips.com). No dealer prep, doc fees, acquisition, etc. If $1 would be added I'd walk right now out of principle. Showed him the other car print out I had and we used that price I had and his offer on the phone as the negotiation point. Bottom line, I got the car for another $800 less than what he offered. Now - financing. I had already went online and was pre-approved for a loan (took 5 minutes) before I walked into the dealer. They beat it by another quarter point, and it was less than used car notes were going for on the market. 5 and change for a used car note - pretty damn good. While I signed he had it detailed again and I drove off with a very happy daughter, and actually I felt great about the whole experience. Can't say that often when car buying.

Lessons Learned:

1) Research a lot online before you buy. A lot. Edmunds is the most useful site, because you get ratings for the car and reviews alont with other info. Then compare like crazy on Cars.com;autotrader;ebay, etc. (newspaper ads aren't even relevant these days), to see availability and offer price for the model you want.

2) Get pre-approved for a loan before you go if you aren't writing a check. Gives you further negotiation with the dealers. If they want your loan business, they have to do better than what you already have approved.

3) Research car prices, kelly blue book, and average sales amounts.

4) Call the Internet/Fleet dealer directly (some advocate emails but they are more hooked if you speak with them in person). Don't talk to sales guys on the lot. Go right to the man. Tell them you are buying a car today, are comparing model X with 3 others, also talking with their internet/fleet managers. Ask for his best price to get your business in the next hour. That is your starting point, since they will always leave some room.

5) Test drive the car. Check CarFax. With the cars I buy (usually cars with 7-13K miles - 1-2 years old, still under warranty) I don't find the need to take them to a mechanic. But if you buy as is or an older car I would definitely do this.

6) Negotiate the final deal. Note, I like to know I'm getting a very good deal, but if I really believe I'm down near the bottom I don't feel the need to squeeze the last $30 out of a 15K purchase. I'm in sales too. In this case the guy turned around his computer monitor and told me had $7 in margin to play with before he took a serious hit on the deal from his comp perspective (showed me their program and margin calculation). Fair enough, if it was giving him that much heartburn when I asked for another $50 I know I'm at the bottom). So, I stopped grinding and we shook hands. Many people would say "get up and walk out, they'll come after you". I believe if you researched properly, know the true value of the car and know you are near the bottom there is no need to play games. Besides, $50 in this deal is nothing. This guy knew I did my homework, knew that I was in sales myself, let him know I would be fair but wouldn't be worked and he respected it. Didn't once give me the infamous "how much do you want to pay a month" line.

7) Finance guy - I decided to wait on extended warranty. I know I can get one all the way up until the 3 year/36 month expires, and there are better values online.

Was there less than 2 hours including the test drive. Not bad.

 
I moed from MA to FL without a car. I had a 3 day truck rental drive all the way down the coast. I got pre approved for a loan from my credit union, and had a 'loan check' in hand. I scoured craigslist, autotrader, and other sites before the trip, and while on the trip. I was looking at Nissan Xterras and Toyota 4runners.

Durring the trip while making a stop in Harrisburg, NC I found a Toyota 4runner 5 years old with only 42k miles at a price that was as good or better then any comparable 4runner I had seen. I got to FL... rented a car for 1 day... drove to the dealership about an hour away... test drove the car... and offered the guy the price I saw on the internet. He did the pprwrk that night, accepted my credit unions 'loan check' and I picked up the vehicle the next day.

I don't necessarily think I got a great deal. I didn't negotiate on price and my interest rate was average at best... around 8.5 maybe 2 years ago... but I will testify to the ease of the process. I literally bought the vehicle... had the loan set up... and drove away 2 days after arriving in FL.

 
Great read Judge. :thumbup:

I am looking to get a another Tahoe or a Quadcab Dodge Truck and the market is just ripe to get one off these now. My used Tahoe I bought last year was just rock bottom for the deal, but I still think I gave up way too much at the negotiating table in fees and such as I was more concerned about the monthly payment vs total cost. Getting your tips you posted here sure is going to help in what I need to do this time.

 
I've used all the steps in the past you have listed with the exception of #4 and had great success. Calling the Internet/Fleet guy ahead of time is a great tip and I will be incorporating it next time. :lmao:

GB the Innerwebs.

 
I've known the Internet/Fleet manager was a good place to start, but I thought this was only for new cars. Didn't know these guys had anything to do with used.

Thanks for the tips.

 
:blackdot:

Will be buying a used car soon. One thing that struck as I research cars online: most used cars have an internet price and a dealer list price. The internet price is always lower. Does anyone know if the internet price is a bare minimum price, or how much wiggle room is beneath that?

Also, seems like there's a couple methods for negotiating:

a. Call 3 dealers and say I'm buying a Model X today. Give me your best price.

b. Going into dealer and saying here's the max I'm willing to pay based on Edmunds (or other) fair pricing source.

Curious of success stories with either of the above.

FWIW, I will be paying cash for the car with no trade-in. I'm patiently trying to find a car on Craigslist without much luck.

 
:goodposting: Will be buying a used car soon. One thing that struck as I research cars online: most used cars have an internet price and a dealer list price. The internet price is always lower. Does anyone know if the internet price is a bare minimum price, or how much wiggle room is beneath that?Also, seems like there's a couple methods for negotiating: a. Call 3 dealers and say I'm buying a Model X today. Give me your best price. b. Going into dealer and saying here's the max I'm willing to pay based on Edmunds (or other) fair pricing source. Curious of success stories with either of the above. FWIW, I will be paying cash for the car with no trade-in. I'm patiently trying to find a car on Craigslist without much luck.
Internet Price - close to the bottom - no more than 2-3% left to negotiate downI'd suggest you not mention cash, and even consider financing (and then immediately paying off the loan). Most dealers get a cut if you finance - typically an origination/finders fee from the lender. The dealer is often willing to factor in that money into the sales price (they want to make $X on every sale - it can come from the sale, the financing, or the trade-in).
 
Internet Price - close to the bottom - no more than 2-3% left to negotiate downI'd suggest you not mention cash, and even consider financing (and then immediately paying off the loan). Most dealers get a cut if you finance - typically an origination/finders fee from the lender. The dealer is often willing to factor in that money into the sales price (they want to make $X on every sale - it can come from the sale, the financing, or the trade-in).
Thanks!
 
So I'm buying today and generally following Smails' process. I've called four dealers with the model I'm looking for and had these results (car internet prices range from 16-18K):

Dealer | Price Reduction from internet price

A: $500

B: $190

C: $200

D: $300

Now it's down to test drive at my #1 and 2 locations. The #1 dealer appears to have a shady reputation from online reviews. We'll see how this goes. My 1 and 2 choices are now at prices close to Edmunds' private party price, so I'm happy with the progress so far.

 
So I'm buying today and generally following Smails' process. I've called four dealers with the model I'm looking for and had these results (car internet prices range from 16-18K):Dealer | Price Reduction from internet priceA: $500B: $190C: $200D: $300Now it's down to test drive at my #1 and 2 locations. The #1 dealer appears to have a shady reputation from online reviews. We'll see how this goes. My 1 and 2 choices are now at prices close to Edmunds' private party price, so I'm happy with the progress so far.
Went to my first choice car & dealer (dealer A above) and started with the test drive. Car seemed to be in v. good shape in my amateur opinion. I got an expected low offer on my trade-in and we quickly agreed to not even bother with trade-in. On new purchase, I offered $500 less than their morning phone offer and they accepted without any haggle. Of course in hindsight, I should have started lower, but the purchase price is lower than I expected I'd get as I arrived at the dealer. Also, the final price is less than Edmunds' dealer retail and private party price and getting close to trade-in value. It's possible there's something on the car I overlooked that allowed me to get a low price, but it drives great, it's still under warranty and its Autocheck score was the maximum. Also, its internet price was listed at $17,990 a week ago and I got it for $16,100. Thus far, I'm happy with where I ended up.
 
:popcorn: Will be buying a used car soon. One thing that struck as I research cars online: most used cars have an internet price and a dealer list price. The internet price is always lower. Does anyone know if the internet price is a bare minimum price, or how much wiggle room is beneath that?Also, seems like there's a couple methods for negotiating: a. Call 3 dealers and say I'm buying a Model X today. Give me your best price. b. Going into dealer and saying here's the max I'm willing to pay based on Edmunds (or other) fair pricing source. Curious of success stories with either of the above. FWIW, I will be paying cash for the car with no trade-in. I'm patiently trying to find a car on Craigslist without much luck.
Internet Price - close to the bottom - no more than 2-3% left to negotiate downI'd suggest you not mention cash, and even consider financing (and then immediately paying off the loan). Most dealers get a cut if you finance - typically an origination/finders fee from the lender. The dealer is often willing to factor in that money into the sales price (they want to make $X on every sale - it can come from the sale, the financing, or the trade-in).
:confused:
 
I know this is completely cheap and lame, but does anyone by chance have an umlimited CARFAX membership? I have a VIN that I want to run. If the report cost $20 I'd do it, but $44.99 is a complete rip-off. Please PM me if you can hook me up. And I promise, I only have one VIN I want to check, I won't ask you for dozens.....

ETA: I'll paypal you 10 bucks for your troubles.....

 
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I remember when buying a used car was a grinding experience. Not only did you have to try to avoid getting fleeced by used car salesmen, you had to make sure it wasn't a lemon. Bought a used car for my daughter yesterday. Total breeze. Process actually took a month or two for her to get realistic (no, you're not getting a 350 horsepower Infiniti Coupe) and then find a couple of models that worked for the both of us. After going through the models she liked, we settled on the Mazda3 s Grand Touring Sedan. Did a lot of research on the car, and reviews were raving in terms of value, performance, etc. Then I checked on safety, and it passed in spades with airbags all around.Then I went shopping on all sites. Cars.com, Autotrader, even EBay (Craigslist was useless to me). I've always liked to buy 2 year old cars with low miles. I checked locally and nationally, pretty much every car advertised for that model in the U.S. Then checked blue book (though I don't go buy that too much - really doesn't matter as dealers will go lower than even wholesale if they got a great deal on the trade-in). Yesterday was buying day. Found 2 cars that matched our specs, down to color and trim package. One in our hometown, one an hour away. Both reasonably priced, and just lowered for Labor Day sales events. While parked outside my hometown dealer, I called the Internet/Fleet managers directly and told them I was buying a car today, and what my other option was (they could look it up online themselves to see the competition). I asked for their best price. I was amazed. Both dropped 3 grand on the phone. Test drove the car close to home and it was way too loud, the low profile tires looked cool but noise/ride suffered way too much. Daughter still wanted the car, though she admitted the road noise wasn't great. So we went to dealer B, who had already called me back while I was at dealer A. He had the car pulled up and waiting for us. Opened it up, turned it on, test drove. Night and day - beautiful ride, like new, only 13K miles on it. Had Carfax printed out, single owner, 11 months old, perfect.Went in to finalize the deal. I told him that I wanted to agree on the price, I would pay taxes/license/registration but I wouldn't pay $1 of BS fees (learned that from carbuyingtips.com). No dealer prep, doc fees, acquisition, etc. If $1 would be added I'd walk right now out of principle. Showed him the other car print out I had and we used that price I had and his offer on the phone as the negotiation point. Bottom line, I got the car for another $800 less than what he offered. Now - financing. I had already went online and was pre-approved for a loan (took 5 minutes) before I walked into the dealer. They beat it by another quarter point, and it was less than used car notes were going for on the market. 5 and change for a used car note - pretty damn good. While I signed he had it detailed again and I drove off with a very happy daughter, and actually I felt great about the whole experience. Can't say that often when car buying.Lessons Learned:1) Research a lot online before you buy. A lot. Edmunds is the most useful site, because you get ratings for the car and reviews alont with other info. Then compare like crazy on Cars.com;autotrader;ebay, etc. (newspaper ads aren't even relevant these days), to see availability and offer price for the model you want.2) Get pre-approved for a loan before you go if you aren't writing a check. Gives you further negotiation with the dealers. If they want your loan business, they have to do better than what you already have approved.3) Research car prices, kelly blue book, and average sales amounts.4) Call the Internet/Fleet dealer directly (some advocate emails but they are more hooked if you speak with them in person). Don't talk to sales guys on the lot. Go right to the man. Tell them you are buying a car today, are comparing model X with 3 others, also talking with their internet/fleet managers. Ask for his best price to get your business in the next hour. That is your starting point, since they will always leave some room.5) Test drive the car. Check CarFax. With the cars I buy (usually cars with 7-13K miles - 1-2 years old, still under warranty) I don't find the need to take them to a mechanic. But if you buy as is or an older car I would definitely do this.6) Negotiate the final deal. Note, I like to know I'm getting a very good deal, but if I really believe I'm down near the bottom I don't feel the need to squeeze the last $30 out of a 15K purchase. I'm in sales too. In this case the guy turned around his computer monitor and told me had $7 in margin to play with before he took a serious hit on the deal from his comp perspective (showed me their program and margin calculation). Fair enough, if it was giving him that much heartburn when I asked for another $50 I know I'm at the bottom). So, I stopped grinding and we shook hands. Many people would say "get up and walk out, they'll come after you". I believe if you researched properly, know the true value of the car and know you are near the bottom there is no need to play games. Besides, $50 in this deal is nothing. This guy knew I did my homework, knew that I was in sales myself, let him know I would be fair but wouldn't be worked and he respected it. Didn't once give me the infamous "how much do you want to pay a month" line.7) Finance guy - I decided to wait on extended warranty. I know I can get one all the way up until the 3 year/36 month expires, and there are better values online. Was there less than 2 hours including the test drive. Not bad.
Will you help me buy a car?P.S. do you know the winning powerball numbers?
 
:goodposting:

Great read Smails. I remember a posting recently where you mentioned your daughter was graduating high school. Now the car! Exciting times..

Wife and I have 2 high mileage vehicles.. I will likely have to review this thread in the near future.

 
:whistle:

Will be buying a used car soon. One thing that struck as I research cars online: most used cars have an internet price and a dealer list price. The internet price is always lower. Does anyone know if the internet price is a bare minimum price, or how much wiggle room is beneath that?

Also, seems like there's a couple methods for negotiating:

a. Call 3 dealers and say I'm buying a Model X today. Give me your best price.

b. Going into dealer and saying here's the max I'm willing to pay based on Edmunds (or other) fair pricing source.

Curious of success stories with either of the above.

FWIW, I will be paying cash for the car with no trade-in. I'm patiently trying to find a car on Craigslist without much luck.
I would highly recommend (a) over (b) above. First rule of negotiating on anything (not just cars): never be the first one to throw out a number. If possible, never even throw out the second number, but let the dealer negotiate against itself instead.Case in point: a couple of weeks ago we traded in both of our cars for new ones. First transaction was perfectly smooth--had done the research, the guy knew it, and he gave us reasonable offers on both in the new car and the trade-in. Second place was an entirely different story. When we got to the trade-in part, he gave me a price of $23,000, when I had $27,000 targeted based on my research. When I scoffed at that, he pulled the "what are you looking to get for it?" trick. I told him repeatedly he wasn't in the ballpark and needed to try again, rather than giving him a number. He kept raising the price, but still not enough. I got up to leave (this was not a ploy but I was serious that I didn't need the new car if they weren't going to be reasonable). As we walked out the door, Mr. krista4 started counting, and by "11" the manager was next to our car saying "What about between $26K and $27K?" and after I then told him to get his hand off my car, he said, "How about $27K?"

Without ever giving them a price, I had them up to exactly where I wanted to be. Of course, I then insisted on $27,500, just to punish them for being dickmittens. ;)

 
For new cars...

Check Car Bargains buying service. For $200 you can eliminate the hassle and get a great deal. Completely legit and my own experience with it was outstanding.

ETA: I believe they even have some sort of price guarantee if you're able to beat the best price they find for you. Should be on the site somewhere.

 
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krista4 said:
:thumbup:

Will be buying a used car soon. One thing that struck as I research cars online: most used cars have an internet price and a dealer list price. The internet price is always lower. Does anyone know if the internet price is a bare minimum price, or how much wiggle room is beneath that?

Also, seems like there's a couple methods for negotiating:

a. Call 3 dealers and say I'm buying a Model X today. Give me your best price.

b. Going into dealer and saying here's the max I'm willing to pay based on Edmunds (or other) fair pricing source.

Curious of success stories with either of the above.

FWIW, I will be paying cash for the car with no trade-in. I'm patiently trying to find a car on Craigslist without much luck.
I would highly recommend (a) over (b) above. First rule of negotiating on anything (not just cars): never be the first one to throw out a number. If possible, never even throw out the second number, but let the dealer negotiate against itself instead.Case in point: a couple of weeks ago we traded in both of our cars for new ones. First transaction was perfectly smooth--had done the research, the guy knew it, and he gave us reasonable offers on both in the new car and the trade-in. Second place was an entirely different story. When we got to the trade-in part, he gave me a price of $23,000, when I had $27,000 targeted based on my research. When I scoffed at that, he pulled the "what are you looking to get for it?" trick. I told him repeatedly he wasn't in the ballpark and needed to try again, rather than giving him a number. He kept raising the price, but still not enough. I got up to leave (this was not a ploy but I was serious that I didn't need the new car if they weren't going to be reasonable). As we walked out the door, Mr. krista4 started counting, and by "11" the manager was next to our car saying "What about between $26K and $27K?" and after I then told him to get his hand off my car, he said, "How about $27K?"

Without ever giving them a price, I had them up to exactly where I wanted to be. Of course, I then insisted on $27,500, just to punish them for being dickmittens. :)
My old car is valued at 2400 trade-in / 3200 private party according to Edmunds. The dealer offered 1500 trade-in value and I said no. The car dealer said it was probably a good idea and admitted that I should be able sell it for 3000 on ebay/craigslist.I sold on CL for 3000 in one day.

It's possible I coulda negotiated the dealer to a higher value, but the difference between dealer first estimate and my CL selling price was 100% increase over dealer value. I don't regret my move. In car buying / selling, I'm just trying to get a fair value without feeling like I got hosed. Oddly, I've learned that the more time invested, the greater the likelihood that I will walk with a I-got-hosed feeling.

 
My situation:

I want to buy a vehicle this weekend if possible. Looking at Toyota 4Runners. Found one 2.5 hours away online that has a clean Carfax and is listed about 5k less than Kelly Blue Book. Seems to be legit. Lets assume I go look at it and test drive it and I want to buy it.

Being that this vehicle is listed at about 5k less than KBB, should I still try to get him to come down on the price?? Also, even if I feel like Im getting a good deal, should I still try to get rid of any of the extra fees listed on the website (Emissions Test Fee and Compliance Fees are listed on top of the usual tax, tag, etc...bogus?)

I plan on calling another internet manager about one other similarly priced 4Runner and taking a printout of it with me even though Im just gonna use it as a bargaining chip and a reason to leave if I dont like what Im hearing.

Tips?

 
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If you're going to look at KBB, I'd say look at trade-in value, but IMO KBB is bull####. Look at what similar vehicles have sold for on eBay (not asking price, or buy it now that didn't sell, but actual sales). Go in armed with several comparable vehicles printed off and an idea of what you want to pay. Start your negotiation low... if you're happy paying $20k for the vehicle, start at $18k. They work their way down and you work your way up. Things like having to replace the tires soon are a good bargaining chip... that's a grand right there. They're in it to bend you over for every nickle they can... stick to your guns and be prepared to walk.

ETA: Make sure you look at it on a "total cost" basis. Dealerships want to get you thinking about "per month" -- it's a hell of a lot easier for you to swallow $25 a month than it is $1500, which is what principle alone is at $25 per month on a five-year loan. Negotiate the price, not the payment.

 
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Thank you so much for this info. Just starting looking at used cars online. How do you go about getting pre-approved online for a loan?

 
Bought a used car yesterday (06 Toyota 4Runner), and thanks to this thread, it was a breeze.

Using tactics in this thread, I was able to get the vehicle for about $1000 less than the listed internet price, and at a price I was comfortable paying. Went in telling them I was gonna go look at 2 other 4Runners after this one. Took a test drive and started negotiating. After some back and forth haggling, they werent coming down enough in price, so I told them I was leaving to go meet the girlfriend for lunch and Id think it over. They tried their hardest to get me to stay, saying "What number would make you stay and buy this car right now", yadda yadda, and even offered to let me take the 4Runner to lunch. But I didnt budge, and I walked. About an hour later, I walked back in (much to their surprise), and told them Id give them my final offer before I went and looked at the other vehicles, and it was about $750 less than their "absolute lowest price" from an hour earlier. They accepted the offer, and I drove my 4Runner home about an hour later.

In hindsight, maybe I should have went $500 lower with my offer, but in the end I paid a price Im good with, so it worked out just fine.

 
I know this thread is about used cars but I have a new car buying question for you car negotiating pros: What is the wiggle room on the MSRP for a new car? Say I'm looking at a car that has an MSRP of 30k, what am I likely be able to get the dealer down to?

 
I know this thread is about used cars but I have a new car buying question for you car negotiating pros: What is the wiggle room on the MSRP for a new car? Say I'm looking at a car that has an MSRP of 30k, what am I likely be able to get the dealer down to?
I never look at MSRP. I always guide off of invoice.-QG
 
Bought a used car yesterday (06 Toyota 4Runner), and thanks to this thread, it was a breeze.Using tactics in this thread, I was able to get the vehicle for about $1000 less than the listed internet price, and at a price I was comfortable paying. Went in telling them I was gonna go look at 2 other 4Runners after this one. Took a test drive and started negotiating. After some back and forth haggling, they werent coming down enough in price, so I told them I was leaving to go meet the girlfriend for lunch and Id think it over. They tried their hardest to get me to stay, saying "What number would make you stay and buy this car right now", yadda yadda, and even offered to let me take the 4Runner to lunch. But I didnt budge, and I walked. About an hour later, I walked back in (much to their surprise), and told them Id give them my final offer before I went and looked at the other vehicles, and it was about $750 less than their "absolute lowest price" from an hour earlier. They accepted the offer, and I drove my 4Runner home about an hour later.In hindsight, maybe I should have went $500 lower with my offer, but in the end I paid a price Im good with, so it worked out just fine.
I want to thank you for pointing out this thread to me.Yesterday I emailed the dealerships letting them know that I was planning on buying a new car. I told them I had 4 cars at 3 dealerships that I liked, gave them the VIN# of the car on their lot that I was interested in, asked for the lowest price they could give me and told them that after I received their quote, that I would be in later this week to test drive. All dealerships came back with an immediate $3000 - $3500 off the MSRP.
 
Bought a used car yesterday (06 Toyota 4Runner), and thanks to this thread, it was a breeze.Using tactics in this thread, I was able to get the vehicle for about $1000 less than the listed internet price, and at a price I was comfortable paying. Went in telling them I was gonna go look at 2 other 4Runners after this one. Took a test drive and started negotiating. After some back and forth haggling, they werent coming down enough in price, so I told them I was leaving to go meet the girlfriend for lunch and Id think it over. They tried their hardest to get me to stay, saying "What number would make you stay and buy this car right now", yadda yadda, and even offered to let me take the 4Runner to lunch. But I didnt budge, and I walked. About an hour later, I walked back in (much to their surprise), and told them Id give them my final offer before I went and looked at the other vehicles, and it was about $750 less than their "absolute lowest price" from an hour earlier. They accepted the offer, and I drove my 4Runner home about an hour later.In hindsight, maybe I should have went $500 lower with my offer, but in the end I paid a price Im good with, so it worked out just fine.
I want to thank you for pointing out this thread to me.Yesterday I emailed the dealerships letting them know that I was planning on buying a new car. I told them I had 4 cars at 3 dealerships that I liked, gave them the VIN# of the car on their lot that I was interested in, asked for the lowest price they could give me and told them that after I received their quote, that I would be in later this week to test drive. All dealerships came back with an immediate $3000 - $3500 off the MSRP.
:thumbup:No problem, and good luck with your purchase!
 
Looking to trade in my vehicle but am not sure where I should look. KBB, E=Bay or something else?

How do you find recent sales results on E-Bay?

 
First rule of negotiating on anything (not just cars): never be the first one to throw out a number. If possible, never even throw out the second number, but let the dealer negotiate against itself instead.Case in point: a couple of weeks ago we traded in both of our cars for new ones. First transaction was perfectly smooth--had done the research, the guy knew it, and he gave us reasonable offers on both in the new car and the trade-in. Second place was an entirely different story. When we got to the trade-in part, he gave me a price of $23,000, when I had $27,000 targeted based on my research. When I scoffed at that, he pulled the "what are you looking to get for it?" trick. I told him repeatedly he wasn't in the ballpark and needed to try again, rather than giving him a number. He kept raising the price, but still not enough. I got up to leave (this was not a ploy but I was serious that I didn't need the new car if they weren't going to be reasonable). As we walked out the door, Mr. krista4 started counting, and by "11" the manager was next to our car saying "What about between $26K and $27K?" and after I then told him to get his hand off my car, he said, "How about $27K?"Without ever giving them a price, I had them up to exactly where I wanted to be. Of course, I then insisted on $27,500, just to punish them for being dickmittens. ;)
:goodposting: Buyers are in the "drivers seat" in negotiations....no pun intended.Car dealerships has excess inventory and many are desperate to get it off the lot. I just bought a certified pre-owned 2008 Acura RL. When I first came to the dealership to test drive it, I really liked it but the price with $34,000...that was too high, even though I could afford it. I kept talking about how I really liked the car, but I can get an 2008 Infiniti M35 for a few thousand less, and at that price I might as well look at the certified 2008 Lexus GS350 and a 2008 5-Series BMW. I left the dealership. Two days later, they called me and reduced price to $32,500. I waffled, telling them I am completely torn about the RL and the M35 (I actually was....I would have been just as happy with the M35).....they reduced it again to $30,400. Deal. Didn't show my cards once. Car had only 22K miles on it. Essentially got a 52K car with just 22K miles on it for the same price as a new Acura TSX. Nice.
 
Just found this thread so I figured I would post in here as well to continue the discussion. Sorry for the previously started new topic.

My wife just test drove (brought home for the night) a 2008 Caddy SRX4 w/ only 19,300 miles on it. Sticker price was $29,000 dropped to $27,500 on sale. It ran a clean carfax report and still has 2 years remaining on the original warranty. They offered $6000 on her trade in bringing the total down to $21,500. Our mechanic gave it a look over and reported all looks good. My wife LOVES the car. I have to admit, it's pretty damn nice.

Is there anything else I should be looking to ask or check? We've only done this once and I feel she got taken.

Anyone with experience suggest a reasonable counter offer? Obviously I would like to get the car at the best price available but don't want to lowball the offer so bad that they pretty much fold shop.

Much thanks for any help.

 
Just found this thread so I figured I would post in here as well to continue the discussion. Sorry for the previously started new topic.My wife just test drove (brought home for the night) a 2008 Caddy SRX4 w/ only 19,300 miles on it. Sticker price was $29,000 dropped to $27,500 on sale. It ran a clean carfax report and still has 2 years remaining on the original warranty. They offered $6000 on her trade in bringing the total down to $21,500. Our mechanic gave it a look over and reported all looks good. My wife LOVES the car. I have to admit, it's pretty damn nice.Is there anything else I should be looking to ask or check? We've only done this once and I feel she got taken.Anyone with experience suggest a reasonable counter offer? Obviously I would like to get the car at the best price available but don't want to lowball the offer so bad that they pretty much fold shop.Much thanks for any help.
Assuming this is a v6, AWD, it wholesales for about $24,500 - so you can't go below that price. But I'd offer $25,000, and expect to pay $26,000ish (but don't cave that quickly). Are you financing? If not, consider that, even if you pay off the loan immediately. Dealers sometimes get a little spiff on the financing - and they look at that when factoring how much money they will make on a deal. (They also consider the trade-in - I am going to assume that they are already lowballing you on the trade-in, and will make a few extra $ there.)
 
Just to add that I agree.

I am no Chet but I just bought my first USED car. A certified preowned 2011 MB e350 with 19000 miles in flawless condition(look at me !)

Experience was easy...

Traded in my 03 Infiniti G35 and was pleased with trade in $ received

Threw 24K S at the transaction and I am left to finance 20K total

Went in thinking I was going to hate, hate all that wasted time and effort but came away pleasantly surprised

The internet has made the buying experience a lot easier

and oh...yes, I do like my new ride(because you care)

 

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