justinguitar.comAny good Youtube videos for getting started? Should be here in two days.
justinguitar.comAny good Youtube videos for getting started? Should be here in two days.
That's a really nice guitar. It's smaller than a full-scale (full-size) guitar, so it should be easier to learn on unless you have really big hands.I'm buying an acoustic guitar to use this quarantine time for something useful. Never really played. Do I need an acoustic-electric guitar, or just acoustic?
What do you think of this guy?
Martin LX1E Little Martin Acoustic-Electric Guitar
HeyThat's a really nice guitar. It's smaller than a full-scale (full-size) guitar, so it should be easier to learn on unless you have really big hands.
UPDATEI'd rank my myself as a pretty good rhythm player, but never had the patience to practice speed, and scales. So my lead, riff, and fill skilz are less than zero. Besides I hardly play with anyone else so just strumming, and muting chords has served me well over the years.
Well I've decided to put my "work from home" time to good use. Three or fours years ago on a drunken saturday night when all the best online purchasing decisions are made. I bought the Charlie Wallace "Master the Fretboard" 10 week course.
On Monday my journey began. Week one seems to be learning the C G D pentatonic patterns of the "CAGED systems. I've seen and read about this system many times over the years, but it always looked complicated to me. So wish me well as use several of my 10/15 minute brakes on my "Series 10" by Bentley Tele instead of hanging at the coffee pot talking about the "Tiger King" with people I don't even really like.
I bought my daughter a $99 Chinese strat clone. The body and neck are cnc built straight from Fender blueprints just like Squires. The hardware is crap. For less than $200 I changed the bridge, tuners and pickups to original Fender parts, polished and leveled the frets, and used Youtube for instructions to change the sad nut it came with. She is a music major and prefers this guitar to an SG.1 A guitar I used to love to play will be like new again, if not better then new.
So has anyone here taken a cheaper made guitar and sunk money it and ending up being happy with the results? Or am I just throwing good money at a bad project/product?
Can't wait to hear your opinions. TIA
This.I bought my daughter a $99 Chinese strat clone. The body and neck are cnc built straight from Fender blueprints just like Squires. The hardware is crap. For less than $200 I changed the bridge, tuners and pickups to original Fender parts, polished and leveled the frets, and used Youtube for instructions to change the sad nut it came with. She is a music major and prefers this guitar to an SG.
For $170 I would let the guy get your old "Tele" right again. 170 shouldn't stop you from getting the Mexican if you are unhappy with the results, or even if you are.
You could watch a few Youtube videos, buy a cheap soldering iron and the pots and switch and do the upgrade yourself for less than $100 I'm sure. If you're still not happy with the guitar, you are out less than $100 and now know how to solder. Soldering is not hard and can be a handy skill to have.So has anyone here taken a cheaper made guitar and sunk money it and ending up being happy with the results? Or am I just throwing good money at a bad project/product?
Can't wait to hear your opinions. TIA
ETA: I see the $167 is for a complete setup and electronics. Not a bad deal depending on what the "complete setup" includes.Here’s the Damage Complete Setup. Change both pots, and the switch with a 4 position mod. For $167.00 usd plus tax
Id spend the $170- you spent that much 30 years ago and it got you here, I’d do it just to keep the old girl around and make it playable. My first acoustic broke in 1997, at the top of the neck- it fell and the end hit a table, splitting the wood where the machine heads/nut are. It sat around for a bit and then I decided to try to fix it, I mean what was I going to do, break it more? I drilled a hole and slid a bolt through, dumped in some glue, and somehow found a big washer that was cut into about 2/3, so the flat side sat perfectly on the nut and the round part just sat under the machines. I still have it, it plays perfect, holds tune, and is just some ####ty alverez. Granted it didn’t cost me any money but the moral is I’m really glad I still have that guitar.UPDATE
Week 2 of the 10 week course is running longer then expected. The new material was easy enough to understand, The A and E "patterns" of the CAGED system but the 1 finger per fret exercises really exposed the weakness in my finger strength and dexterity on those patterns, So I've slowed down on the 10 weeks plan and started playing chromatic scales, 1 finger per fret, using a metronome as well as practicing the scale patterns and memorizing the root notes and their relative minors notes per pattern. Without jumping ahead in the lessons, I can see that is going to lead into using these patterns to play in different keys, based on the root notes.
Now I need some advice from you guys, or actually some confirmation....
I’ve been using my Stagg acoustic for learning the CAGED system and to strength and build speed. It’s just so easy to pick up whenever I have 5 or 10 minutes to just exercise. And it’s been my go to axe for the last 10 years or so.
Now that I’m getting ready to put my new skills to the test, I pulled out and dusted off my old Tele copy. It’s a Series 10 by Bently that I bought 30 maybe 35 years ago for somewhere between $225.00 and $175.00 and it needs work. I loved this cheap guitar back in my 20’s when that’s all I could afford. But this old soldier has never seen the inside of a case. Needless to say the pots and switch are scratchy as hell plus the action and intonation are off.
I’ve sprayed the pots with contact cleaner and that’s helped but is haven’t fixed it. I think the switch is just shot, If I bump it by mistake I just lose everything. I’ve also changed the saddles and got the string height and intonation better, but it needs a pro tech to make it right.
So I dropped it last Monday at a local music store that had good reviews.
Here’s the Damage Complete Setup. Change both pots, and the switch with a 4 position mod. For $167.00 usd plus tax
PROS
1 A guitar I used to love to play will be like new again, if not better then new.
2 If I upgrade to a true Fender Tele, the upgraded electronic could be used in the new guitar if needed. But I’d rather use one of them as a 5 string Keef guitar.
3 $170.00 is still less than even a Mexican Tele.
Cons,
1 The repair and upgrade is damn near as much I paid for the guitar.
2 I have the money to buy a new or used Mexican or even a US Tele. But I’m just not positive on my current job situation. I think I’m safe, but I don’t wanna bet the price difference on it,
So has anyone here taken a cheaper made guitar and sunk money it and ending up being happy with the results? Or am I just throwing good money at a bad project/product?
Can't wait to hear your opinions. TIA
Parlor size is a smaller guitar as I understand it. What makes it "easier" to play? Is it just the fact that where you need to put your fingers for the chord positions are closer to your body? Would that be more difficult for longer arms? My son is pushing 6'3", so he has a fair wingspan.FWIW, I bought a Recording King parlor size acoustic a few years ago and love it. I keep it by my bed and don't care if it gets dinged up (unlike my Martin). I think I got it for less than $200 from Musician's Friend. The parlor size would be easier for your kid to play, too.
The thought process is that shorter scale guitars have less string tension (and thus are easier to fret) and you don’t have to stretch your fingers as far when playing chords since the neck and frets are generally narrower. That makes them easier to learn on But I think a full size guitar would work as well. Unfortunately, I don’t have much experience with acoustics in that price range and thus can’t make a recommendation with any confidence. But for a beginner I would be looking for a guitar with low action (easier to play while you build finger strength) and good intonation (stays in tune as you play up the neck). For a beginner guitar, those factors would be more important to me than tone, to be honest.Parlor size is a smaller guitar as I understand it. What makes it "easier" to play? Is it just the fact that where you need to put your fingers for the chord positions are closer to your body? Would that be more difficult for longer arms? My son is pushing 6'3", so he has a fair wingspan.
The best bang for your buck is to find a used guitar. Since your son is full sized, I would snag a full sized guitar. I know that isn’t easy these days since the stores are closed. Do you have someone that plays guitar can help you? Finding a guitar that has low action is really helpful with playability.The thought process is that shorter scale guitars have less string tension (and thus are easier to fret) and you don’t have to stretch your fingers as far when playing chords since the neck and frets are generally narrower. That makes them easier to learn on But I think a full size guitar would work as well. Unfortunately, I don’t have much experience with acoustics in that price range and thus can’t make a recommendation with any confidence. But for a beginner I would be looking for a guitar with low action (easier to play while you build finger strength) and good intonation (stays in tune as you play up the neck). For a beginner guitar, those factors would be more important to me than tone, to be honest.
The physicist in me can see this logic. A shorter string should naturally have a higher pitch than a longer one (with other factor being equal) and thus it wouldn't need to be at quite the same level of tension to achieve a particular frequency.The thought process is that shorter scale guitars have less string tension (and thus are easier to fret) and you don’t have to stretch your fingers as far when playing chords since the neck and frets are generally narrower. That makes them easier to learn on But I think a full size guitar would work as well. Unfortunately, I don’t have much experience with acoustics in that price range and thus can’t make a recommendation with any confidence. But for a beginner I would be looking for a guitar with low action (easier to play while you build finger strength) and good intonation (stays in tune as you play up the neck). For a beginner guitar, those factors would be more important to me than tone, to be honest.
Been looking into it and reading up...think one of these may be the end result.My daughter was quite a bit different than your son when I got her first little acoustic. For one she was more than a foot shorter has tiny hands and had been playing a full size electric for a little while.
I put electric guitar strings on it. For sure didn't have the projection it would have with some standard acoustic strings but it didn't sound half bad and it kept her playing.
Maybe a full size acoustic for his size with light strings? Need to learn to change strings anyway.
Would help quite a bit if you knew someone that played that could check one out. $200 is kind of a tough spot for acoustics. Some Yamahas get good reviews as beginner acoustic guitars.
What's your price range? The best route is get a good all solid wood USED guitar. Look on Reverb.com which is like an ebay for guitars. I can help you find a good model. A Blueridge BR-160 sounds like a $2,500 Martin. They used to run $800 brand new but I'm not sure what the current used market is for those.Been looking into it and reading up...think one of these may be the end result.
Yamaha FG800
Fender CD-60s
Epiphone DR-100
Unfortunately, the cheapest BR-160 right now on Reverb is $749. There’s a BR-40 for $395.What's your price range? The best route is get a good all solid wood USED guitar. Look on Reverb.com which is like an ebay for guitars. I can help you find a good model. A Blueridge BR-160 sounds like a $2,500 Martin. They used to run $800 brand new but I'm not sure what the current used market is for those.
Has any guitarist ever asked for higher action?Galileo said:The physicist in me can see this logic. A shorter string should naturally have a higher pitch than a longer one (with other factor being equal) and thus it wouldn't need to be at quite the same level of tension to achieve a particular frequency.
And yes, I had to look up what low action referred to. https://guitar.lovetoknow.com/Acoustic_Guitars_with_Low_Action
Slide players?Has any guitarist ever asked for higher action?
Yeah, you're asking the wrong guy. This is why I had to look it up. And this is also why I am in here seeking advice from those in the know.Has any guitarist ever asked for higher action?
I just had my tele worked on, and asked to have it as low as possible without fret buzz.
I'm looking to get in for just a couple hundred. Again, I don't want to drop a grand only to see his interest last for a month. Are those that I posted not solid wood? I know they are combinations of different woods for different parts, but they don't seem to be laminates or anything like that. Does solid wood refer to a single type throughout?What's your price range? The best route is get a good all solid wood USED guitar. Look on Reverb.com which is like an ebay for guitars. I can help you find a good model. A Blueridge BR-160 sounds like a $2,500 Martin. They used to run $800 brand new but I'm not sure what the current used market is for those.
I bought a Stagg about 10 years ago. I immediately had the action lowered, and It played like an electric.I'm looking to get in for just a couple hundred. Again, I don't want to drop a grand only to see his interest last for a month. Are those that I posted not solid wood? I know they are combinations of different woods for different parts, but they don't seem to be laminates or anything like that. Does solid wood refer to a single type throughout?
Those three are probably fine. My first guitar was a Fender dreadnought.I'm looking to get in for just a couple hundred. Again, I don't want to drop a grand only to see his interest last for a month. Are those that I posted not solid wood? I know they are combinations of different woods for different parts, but they don't seem to be laminates or anything like that. Does solid wood refer to a single type throughout?
The BR-40 (mahogany) and the BR-60 (rosewood) are fine sounding guitars as well. They are cheaper because they are laminate vs solid wood but they sound very good and a laminate isn’t bad for a starter guitar.Unfortunately, the cheapest BR-160 right now on Reverb is $749. There’s a BR-40 for $395.
I know many people like those Epiphones. I tried them and didn’t love the tone. I’d look for a Blueridge BR-60 which is a rosewood laminate. Still sounds great. Nothing wrong with laminate for a beginner guitar.I'm looking to get in for just a couple hundred. Again, I don't want to drop a grand only to see his interest last for a month. Are those that I posted not solid wood? I know they are combinations of different woods for different parts, but they don't seem to be laminates or anything like that. Does solid wood refer to a single type throughout?
How much did you pay to get the action lowered? For an acoustic guitar, I’d never try to tackle that myself, and I’m guessing that kind of work would run $75 at a minimum, which unfortunately eats into the $200 budget.I bought a Stagg about 10 years ago. I immediately had the action lowered, and It played like an electric.
It obviously doesn't have the tone as a $1500.00 axe, but it's a great guitar for a couple hundred bucks.
Stagg Guitars
Geez it's been so long ago I'm not sure. I'm thinking 50. 00 maybe 60.00.How much did you pay to get the action lowered? For an acoustic guitar, I’d never try to tackle that myself, and I’m guessing that kind of work would run $75 at a minimum, which unfortunately eats into the $200 budget.
Better off finding a used guitar that had the action lowered by the previous owner. $200 Is a tight budgetGeez it's been so long ago I'm not sure. I'm thinking 50. 00 maybe 60.00.
But yeah they had to take the neck off and reset it. Definitely not a job just anyone can do.
Get the Yamaha FG-800. It's a good starter guitar for the money.I'm looking to get in for just a couple hundred. Again, I don't want to drop a grand only to see his interest last for a month. Are those that I posted not solid wood? I know they are combinations of different woods for different parts, but they don't seem to be laminates or anything like that. Does solid wood refer to a single type throughout?
Too late...I ordered the FenderGet the Yamaha FG-800. It's a good starter guitar for the money.
All good. I haven't played the Fender. I have an FG-800 that I've had for a few years. Great bang for the buck. Best wishes to your son.Too late...I ordered the Fender
I started on a nylon string, but my first steel string acoustic was a Fender. It was a good guitar. Best of luck to your boy.Too late...I ordered the Fender
Have the Katana 50. It's pretty good if you're willing to dial it in with software. Wasn't impressed out of the box, but was able to dial in some nice tones. It gets a lot of love online.Any Katana owners around here? I'm thinking about getting one.
Love that forum. I bought and sold a few really nice acoustics there over the years.@Otis sighting in this thread--post 12. Made a somewhat low offer on this guitar. She's a beauty.
I’ve heard the Acoustasonics sound and play incredibly well. But they look ugly as hell to me. I much prefer the Tom Anderson Crowdster Plus (own two of them). Absolutely incredible tone.Really tempted to pick up one of those Fender Acoustasonic Strats. They look fun as all heck in the Youtube vids. Not cheap though. I wouldn't hesitate at half the price, hesitating some based on where they are now.
Yeah, those things are butt uglyI’ve heard the Acoustasonics sound and play incredibly well. But they look ugly as hell to me. I much prefer the Tom Anderson Crowdster Plus (own two of them). Absolutely incredible tone.
I played one last year at summer Namm. They feel and play great. Fun to mess around with but personally I think they are probably best used by someone that needs amplified acoustic sounds for live performance with a full band. Not something I would use very often, so price is too much. Like you, if they were half that I'd be all over one.Really tempted to pick up one of those Fender Acoustasonic Strats. They look fun as all heck in the Youtube vids. Not cheap though. I wouldn't hesitate at half the price, hesitating some based on where they are now.
Nice job! Is that a Fly3 that you're using?Many hours of practicing, a few choice mistakes, but here's my new composition...
Thanks bro!. Yeah the Blackstar FLY3 amp. Cool little design for $100. Although all those sounds are from the Boss pedal. The amp was just used for recording in this case.Nice job! Is that a Fly3 that you're using?
Thanks bro!. Yeah the Blackstar FLY3 amp. Cool little design for $100. Although all those sounds are from the Boss pedal. The amp was just used for recording in this case.
Whoa, not sure how I missed this. That was super cool! Reminds of something that Buckethead would do.Many hours of practicing, a few choice mistakes, but here's my new composition...
Thanks BB. I'll never shred like Buckethead, but I appreciate the kind words. I am a big fan of the Blackstar mini amp. Pretty good sound.Whoa, not sure how I missed this. That was super cool! Reminds of something that Buckethead would do.
p.s. I have a Fly 3 on my nightstand. Fun little practice amp.