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Home-owners...What are your current projects? (1 Viewer)

Anybody ever look into or install (or have installed for you) a stand-by generator?  I was looking into one that runs on natural gas.  Not something that I need to run the entire house, but something to run the essentials like sump pump, fridge, some lights, and furnace.  I am not sure how much power it takes to run the hot water tank.  Everything in my house is electric except the furnace. 

Or would it be worth it to just get one that is strong enough to run everything?  I mean, if the power is out for any sort of extended period of time I certainly wouldn't plan to run the entire house like normal. I wouldn't want it running the central air or anything, although I guess it would be nice to have the option to do so.

Also, how does the installation of a stand-by generator go along with re-sale value of a home?  I do live in northeast Ohio, so there is plenty of opportunity for power outages during times of the year where it really really sucks to have power outages. 
Ice storms in our area make it possible to loose power for a few days each winter in the burbs.  30-50% of my neighbors have back up generators and nearly all of them use a regular gas generator that plugs into a 220 outlet they have outside the house opposite of the fuse box.  It would only cost you a hundred-two hundred dollar electrician bill on top of what a normal generator costs and you can still use the generator for normal generator purposes.  I may get around to it someday.  

 
After about four years of suffering with a range hood that recirculates air, and essentially does nothing about cooking odors, we're going to replace for one that vents properly to outside.Don't think I'm going to trust myself with cutting a hole in the wall/siding, likely go with professional install.

Any recommendations from the board on brands/capacity/anything else are welcome. Hopefully be able to keep the half-height cabinets over the range.
Another thing I need to get around to doing too.  It's really no different than cutting any other hole, the vent attachment on the outside will skirt the hole to hide any irregularities.  You can foam insulate around the vent pipe.  You can keep the half cabinets either way, you just may or may not have a vent pipe taking up cabinet space depending on what was there previously.  

 
Anybody ever look into or install (or have installed for you) a stand-by generator?  I was looking into one that runs on natural gas.  Not something that I need to run the entire house, but something to run the essentials like sump pump, fridge, some lights, and furnace.  I am not sure how much power it takes to run the hot water tank.  Everything in my house is electric except the furnace. 

Or would it be worth it to just get one that is strong enough to run everything?  I mean, if the power is out for any sort of extended period of time I certainly wouldn't plan to run the entire house like normal. I wouldn't want it running the central air or anything, although I guess it would be nice to have the option to do so.

Also, how does the installation of a stand-by generator go along with re-sale value of a home?  I do live in northeast Ohio, so there is plenty of opportunity for power outages during times of the year where it really really sucks to have power outages. 
I put one in a few years ago that runs on propane. My house isn't huge, so it wasn't that much more to get one that runs the whole house as opposed to one that just runs the basics. I think I paid around $9-10k, with upsizing to whole-house about $1k of that. I had to get tanks, since we don't have natural gas available where I live and there were no propane tanks on the property already. Mine runs the self-check mattyl mentioned above once a week.

 
9-10 grand seems pricey.  I see 20,000 watt units for between $4,000-4,500 (Kohler, Generac) and have read up that they are maybe 2 grand to install.  Also, the installation is actually cheaper if you get a whole house unit because then you don't have to have the electrician wire separately, and instead it is just one main switch.

Then again, there are probably factors I am overlooking that will increase cost.

 
I am having 5 tons of dirt delivered on Friday.  Also getting a keg of summer shandy on Friday, but I have to pick it up.

 
Another thing I need to get around to doing too.  It's really no different than cutting any other hole, the vent attachment on the outside will skirt the hole to hide any irregularities.  You can foam insulate around the vent pipe.  You can keep the half cabinets either way, you just may or may not have a vent pipe taking up cabinet space depending on what was there previously.  
Yes, but I didn't cut those! Probably get a professional to install.

Need to decide on a hood first, looks like there are about 10000 manufacturers. It needs to be thin to fit under cabinets (6 in) and still have decent clearance above stove.

 
9-10 grand seems pricey.  I see 20,000 watt units for between $4,000-4,500 (Kohler, Generac) and have read up that they are maybe 2 grand to install.  Also, the installation is actually cheaper if you get a whole house unit because then you don't have to have the electrician wire separately, and instead it is just one main switch.

Then again, there are probably factors I am overlooking that will increase cost.
:shrug:

I got 4 prices and didn't take either the lowest or the highest. I also had to buy tanks and had to have the lines installed. 

 
I have a 1300 sq foot home built in 68. It has 100 amp electrical box. A realtor friend said if I upgraded to 200 amp it would be good for resale.  

Is that a major job? Big money? Would you agree on the resale? 

 
Thanks. That sounds beyond reasonable. I'm thinking of doing sone regrading of the back acre.

Are you renting Bobcat to move all that dirt around? 
Yeah, also really interested.  I need to build up my backyard after a lot of lost dirt from rains over the past few years, and also need to install a french drain or two and completely redo my lawn.

Figure "all at once" is probably the way to go.  Not looking forward to spreading and grading several tons of dirt, though.

 
Posted in the Deck Materials topic

Finishing up building a 5.5-6' foot high 25x20 deck off the back of our house (new construction -- closed at end of December).  Did every single bit myself :flex:  Lots of long days and plenty of beer.

Next up on the project list is a paver walkway to a circular firepit section off the deck stairs.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Beef Ravioli said:
I have a 1300 sq foot home built in 68. It has 100 amp electrical box. A realtor friend said if I upgraded to 200 amp it would be good for resale.  

Is that a major job? Big money? Would you agree on the resale? 
It cost me about 2k. Yes, it's worth doing - they will definitely ding you for 100amp service on resale. 

 
Posted in the Deck Materials topic

Finishing up building a 5.5-6' foot high 25x20 deck off the back of our house (new construction -- closed at end of December).  Did every single bit myself :flex:  Lots of long days and plenty of beer.

Next up on the project list is a paver walkway to a circular firepit section off the deck stairs.
How did you build it that deep?  My deck is 16 feet deep, but with a header after 14' and 2' of cantilever (both of which I think are max for code). 

 
How did you build it that deep?  My deck is 16 feet deep, but with a header after 14' and 2' of cantilever (both of which I think are max for code). 
I have doubled up support beams at 9 feet and then at 18 with a 2 foot cantilever. You can get an idea of what I mean from Pic 3

 
I have doubled up support beams at 9 feet and then at 18 with a 2 foot cantilever. You can get an idea of what I mean from Pic 3
Yeah, asked before I went to the other thread and saw.  Amazing looking deck, very nice.  Love the railing kits and lighting - what kits are those?

 
Yeah, asked before I went to the other thread and saw.  Amazing looking deck, very nice.  Love the railing kits and lighting - what kits are those?
Thank you.  Luckily I'm finishing up before it gets too hot.

Everything is TimberTech. Railing and lights.  I did custom rail packs because I did the square metal balusters.  Kind of a pain in the ### with the first one (because you have to drill the holes yourself for the balusters), but it's a breeze after you know how to do it.

 
Anybody know what a typical basement concrete floor thickness is?  Our contractor is jack hammering the hole for our black water basin and pump and he's at 18" and still going. He said he's never seen concrete that deep. Any reason it's so thick?

 
Anybody know what a typical basement concrete floor thickness is?  Our contractor is jack hammering the hole for our black water basin and pump and he's at 18" and still going. He said he's never seen concrete that deep. Any reason it's so thick?
Jesus.  Typically they are like 4 or 5 inches. 

 
Anybody know what a typical basement concrete floor thickness is?  Our contractor is jack hammering the hole for our black water basin and pump and he's at 18" and still going. He said he's never seen concrete that deep. Any reason it's so thick?
Your either sitting on treasure, or a dead body.

 
Anybody know what a typical basement concrete floor thickness is?  Our contractor is jack hammering the hole for our black water basin and pump and he's at 18" and still going. He said he's never seen concrete that deep. Any reason it's so thick?
Stop him and get a new contractor!

 
Anybody know what a typical basement concrete floor thickness is?  Our contractor is jack hammering the hole for our black water basin and pump and he's at 18" and still going. He said he's never seen concrete that deep. Any reason it's so thick?
This guy has no idea what he is doing, I would have him stop immediately and find someone else 

 
Thanks for the concern all - he's not doing anything wrong. He's well inside the wall perimeter.  It looks like it was footing thickness, but it's not the footing. he finally got through at 22". What we think happened is this: the area he was digging in is an octagonal shaped area under our breakfast nook. it seems that area was either the dumping ground for extra concrete or they just poured the whole area at footer depth.  We were way off the nearest wall and it was still that thick. I know the whole basement isn't that thick because they put a condensation drain in a while ago and it wasn't like that. This area just seemed to be one giant, thick pad. 

 
Question 

If I start tearing my deck up. How long can I leave the frame and joists uncovered before they get messed up

 
Fat Nick said:
Thanks for the concern all - he's not doing anything wrong. He's well inside the wall perimeter.  It looks like it was footing thickness, but it's not the footing. he finally got through at 22". What we think happened is this: the area he was digging in is an octagonal shaped area under our breakfast nook. it seems that area was either the dumping ground for extra concrete or they just poured the whole area at footer depth.  We were way off the nearest wall and it was still that thick. I know the whole basement isn't that thick because they put a condensation drain in a while ago and it wasn't like that. This area just seemed to be one giant, thick pad. 
It could have been intended in the plans as a column support. Those have to be footer depth. If plans change during construction, a lot of times it is after the footers are poured.

 
Definitely not indefinitely, but you should be good for a while. One issue is if the joists have been cut, the cut ends are not really protected, so they can start rotting in from that direction.

But you should lay down deck boards soon anyway. Who the hell wants a deck that you can't walk on?

 
Grade backyard - possible french drain.  Was quote 4K.  I will rent a bobcat and do it myself.

gutters - guy coming to quote today after all of the terrible thins I have read about box store gutters.

BBQ exhaust - need to install a good over my BBQ grill.  Cool a fatty cut and you he smoked out.

Oscilating Fan - install wall mount in patio.

Install drip irrigation in garden. Complete.

 
Sprayed weed killer on lawn. Needs another pass. 

Fix tilt on boat I/O. 

Cleaned sink and tub drains. Need to clean up cartridge leak in handle or replace.

Need to take down two big trees that fell during storm.

Need to rent a stump grinder for a bunch of stumps left over from last year.

Overseed lawn and fertilize.

Fall - harvest beans and plow.

Seed eroding waterways in fields this fall after plowing. 

Send back new gauge cluster for tractor that failed pos. 

Troubleshoot tractor electrical charging system.

Picked rocks Saturday. Sucks and my body is still sore.  

Changed oil in my wife's car yesterday. 

Need to install goose fence by the lake.  :X

Grade driveway again. 

Get granite delivered for driveway.

Mow ditches. 

Borrow BILs skid loader to remove two big rocks I got out of a field with a chain. 

Level out a few dips in the backyard by fall so the NiceRink is fairly level before pouring water. 

Figure out what's wrong wth the water softener. 

Add pressure to the geothermal loop field. 

Sell extra vehicles that are losing value. 

That's a good start to a list. 

 
Organize the garage better 

Figure out how to get my dogs to stop scratching the screen on our porch.  They tore through two screens already.  I bought the supposed pet safe screens which they haven't torn yet but I'm not confident in those.  I wanted to put a storm door grill on, but the gap is 40" on both sides of the door (screened in back porch).

Change a light fixture my wife dislikes in the kitchen. 

Build or buy a shed.  Tricky part is our lawn (about a half acre) slopes, not too bad at the back but still somewhat.  

 

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