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Home-owners...What are your current projects?


wilked

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In the process of slowly redoing stuff in our kitchen, so I don't want to spend a bunch of $$$ on this. We just bought new appliances and next will be doing painting and back splash.

We are going to be replacing our sink, and therefore our faucet; we just aren't sure that we if we are doing counters or not, so that is pushing it back.

I have a faucet where the spray nozzle pulls from the faucet, and the issue is I have minor leaks at the point where there hose meets the nozzle.

I am wondering if I can get a replacement hose at something like a Lowes or Home Depot, and then how easy is that to replace?

TIA!!!

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6 minutes ago, Mr. Ected said:

In the process of slowly redoing stuff in our kitchen, so I don't want to spend a bunch of $$$ on this. We just bought new appliances and next will be doing painting and back splash.

We are going to be replacing our sink, and therefore our faucet; we just aren't sure that we if we are doing counters or not, so that is pushing it back.

I have a faucet where the spray nozzle pulls from the faucet, and the issue is I have minor leaks at the point where there hose meets the nozzle.

I am wondering if I can get a replacement hose at something like a Lowes or Home Depot, and then how easy is that to replace?

TIA!!!

First try to retighten.  If that doesn't work, take apart and find the washer and buy a similar one at Lowes/HD.  You shouldn't need a whole new hose. 

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57 minutes ago, Mr. Ected said:

In the process of slowly redoing stuff in our kitchen, so I don't want to spend a bunch of $$$ on this. We just bought new appliances and next will be doing painting and back splash.

 

One thing to consider before doing your backsplash is installing under counter lighting.  If you need to drill a hole in the drywall to assist in running wires the tile will cover it up.  That makes it much easier for the weekend warrior to fish the wires.

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1 hour ago, Mr. Ected said:

In the process of slowly redoing stuff in our kitchen, so I don't want to spend a bunch of $$$ on this. We just bought new appliances and next will be doing painting and back splash.

We are going to be replacing our sink, and therefore our faucet; we just aren't sure that we if we are doing counters or not, so that is pushing it back.

I have a faucet where the spray nozzle pulls from the faucet, and the issue is I have minor leaks at the point where there hose meets the nozzle.

I am wondering if I can get a replacement hose at something like a Lowes or Home Depot, and then how easy is that to replace?

TIA!!!

Ya, typically just need to tighten.  Mine does that occasionally

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6 hours ago, Mr. Ected said:

In the process of slowly redoing stuff in our kitchen, so I don't want to spend a bunch of $$$ on this. We just bought new appliances and next will be doing painting and back splash.

We are going to be replacing our sink, and therefore our faucet; we just aren't sure that we if we are doing counters or not, so that is pushing it back.

I have a faucet where the spray nozzle pulls from the faucet, and the issue is I have minor leaks at the point where there hose meets the nozzle.

I am wondering if I can get a replacement hose at something like a Lowes or Home Depot, and then how easy is that to replace?

TIA!!!

If it is leaking from the actual threaded connection then @Brony nailed it. You could also try unscrewing the head and putting either thread tape or blue Loctite on the threads to head seal it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I need some sewer work done, and agreed to an oral estimate just over $4k over the phone but said I'd need something in writing before work started. Well the project day is tomorrow and they simply won't send me anything in writing. No estimate, no contract, no insurance info. They say they will, then they don't. Today, I told the office assistant that if guys show up tomorrow and you haven't sent me anything I'm not going to let them start work. Still nada. You think I'm going to let you into my basement to take apart my sewer line on a handshake? Am I being crazy?

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On ‎12‎/‎21‎/‎2017 at 4:11 PM, Kanil said:

Vinyl plank flooring going in over the next two weeks.  Taking out carpet and some of that fake wood laminate.  Not looking forward to it :(.

Finished this over my wife and kid's winter break (note: I still had to put in 10 hour days at work, then come home and floor).  The flooring was actually fairly simple, the hard part was the damn trim.  We have rounded corners and it took a good 4 hours for me to figure out how to trim around the first one (after that they were quick but still a PITA).

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1 hour ago, mrip541 said:

I need some sewer work done, and agreed to an oral estimate just over $4k over the phone but said I'd need something in writing before work started. Well the project day is tomorrow and they simply won't send me anything in writing. No estimate, no contract, no insurance info. They say they will, then they don't. Today, I told the office assistant that if guys show up tomorrow and you haven't sent me anything I'm not going to let them start work. Still nada. You think I'm going to let you into my basement to take apart my sewer line on a handshake? Am I being crazy?

How established are they? For a very established business I am prob ok. 

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1 hour ago, mrip541 said:

I need some sewer work done, and agreed to an oral estimate just over $4k over the phone but said I'd need something in writing before work started. Well the project day is tomorrow and they simply won't send me anything in writing. No estimate, no contract, no insurance info. They say they will, then they don't. Today, I told the office assistant that if guys show up tomorrow and you haven't sent me anything I'm not going to let them start work. Still nada. You think I'm going to let you into my basement to take apart my sewer line on a handshake? Am I being crazy?

No. Trust your instincts. Sounds lame but if the job hasn’t even started and you’re already having issues with them not getting back to you and them not doing what they say they will (sending you the paperwork), that will likely spell trouble later. 

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I’m looking putting in vinyl planks vs laminate for flooring. From what I’ve read the only benefit of laminate is that it’s warmer and softer.  I was just wondering if any here has had any experience with the vinyl planks and what their thoughts were. 

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My kitchen ceiling comes down thursday. Putting in new lighting (recessed) and new pendants for the island. 

 

Was going to demo it out myself but found a guy willing to do it for $800.  Figure materials / disposal would have cost me $300 so for $500 labor sounds good to me. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Borden said:

I’m looking putting in vinyl planks vs laminate for flooring. From what I’ve read the only benefit of laminate is that it’s warmer and softer.  I was just wondering if any here has had any experience with the vinyl planks and what their thoughts were. 

We just put in vinyl plank in December.  We went with it over laminate for a couple of reasons.  1 - Part of what we replaced was laminate that was put in in 2011 and there was noticeable wear in the higher traffic areas.  2 - The finish on the laminate all seems to be more glossy than we like.  Every little dog hair stuck out on it.

We also went with a commercial quality grade that was slightly more expensive just because we have a 200lb dog and wanted to make sure it would hold up/not get scratched.  Installation of the floor was simple.  I'm a complete novice and it took me about 15 hours to do 4 rooms (about 1000 square feet total with lots of nooks and crannies).

The worst part of the whole project was the trim since we have rounded corners rather than square.  Those corners were a PITA.  They have trim available that has rounded corner pieces you can buy.  If I had to do it all over again, I'd have done that for sure.

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2 hours ago, Kanil said:

We just put in vinyl plank in December.  We went with it over laminate for a couple of reasons.  1 - Part of what we replaced was laminate that was put in in 2011 and there was noticeable wear in the higher traffic areas.  2 - The finish on the laminate all seems to be more glossy than we like.  Every little dog hair stuck out on it.

We also went with a commercial quality grade that was slightly more expensive just because we have a 200lb dog and wanted to make sure it would hold up/not get scratched.  Installation of the floor was simple.  I'm a complete novice and it took me about 15 hours to do 4 rooms (about 1000 square feet total with lots of nooks and crannies).

The worst part of the whole project was the trim since we have rounded corners rather than square.  Those corners were a PITA.  They have trim available that has rounded corner pieces you can buy.  If I had to do it all over again, I'd have done that for sure.

Wonderful answer. I was thinking the commercial grade as well (AC5 I believe). You sold me with the dog hair issue. Yours is a giant at 200lbs. Mastiff I’m guessing?

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1 hour ago, Borden said:

Wonderful answer. I was thinking the commercial grade as well (AC5 I believe). You sold me with the dog hair issue. Yours is a giant at 200lbs. Mastiff I’m guessing?

Yup.  English.  Although he's down to a svelt 180 currently.  He blew his ACL about 18 months ago so we put him on a diet during recovery.  He has not gained any of it back yet so I think he's probably going to stay there as he's starting to get a little older.

Here's a picture of the flooring we went with.  The hardest part about the install was we used 3 different widths of boards (10", 5.75", and 4.25") and multiple different colors so getting those placed they way my wife wanted them was a minor puzzle.  Entire install was done with a miter saw, rubber mallet, t square, and measuring tape.  We were replacing carpet in two rooms and laminate in the other two.  We pulled the carpet/pad in the first two rooms but in the other two we just put it over laminate which saved quite a bit of effort.

I'm happy to answer any other questions you might have (if I don't respond here, feel free to PM me).

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19 minutes ago, Kanil said:

Yup.  English.  Although he's down to a svelt 180 currently.  He blew his ACL about 18 months ago so we put him on a diet during recovery.  He has not gained any of it back yet so I think he's probably going to stay there as he's starting to get a little older.

Here's a picture of the flooring we went with.  The hardest part about the install was we used 3 different widths of boards (10", 5.75", and 4.25") and multiple different colors so getting those placed they way my wife wanted them was a minor puzzle.  Entire install was done with a miter saw, rubber mallet, t square, and measuring tape.  We were replacing carpet in two rooms and laminate in the other two.  We pulled the carpet/pad in the first two rooms but in the other two we just put it over laminate which saved quite a bit of effort.

I'm happy to answer any other questions you might have (if I don't respond here, feel free to PM me).

Looks really good (would’ve looked better with a picture of the hound though :D ). Thanks for the help. I’m sure I will have some questions later.

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On 1/1/2018 at 0:42 PM, belljr said:

My deck is literally a day maybe 2 away from being finished. But the guy doing it (friend of mine) didn't realize he needed one finished board and a couple special brackets for the rail.

It's been 2 weeks and the parts are not in :lol:

He keeps texting how sorry he is. I'm in no rush but he wants this stupid thing finished more than I do. Lol.

No he's not playing me. I've known him a long time

Forgot to update for anyone that cares.

We have a couple cosmetic issues to touch up once the weather breaks on the stairs but overall it came out real nice.

I snapped a couple quick pics for anyone that cares :)

https://imgur.com/a/l2lqM

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On 2/6/2018 at 9:50 AM, Borden said:

I’m looking putting in vinyl planks vs laminate for flooring. From what I’ve read the only benefit of laminate is that it’s warmer and softer.  I was just wondering if any here has had any experience with the vinyl planks and what their thoughts were. 

Have both, put laminate down in basement,  does have issues brought up already,  vinyl is upstairs it has had a 1/2 gallon  paint thrown on it and wipes right up.  Dogs don't leave scuff marks on it like laminate.  Have pic above. Ill try to take pic of laminate today and post it.  If i had to do it all over i would have put down vinyl in the basement.

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On 8/8/2016 at 7:25 AM, The Commish said:

Close to being in the same boat.  What I've learned about tankless is, go Rhinnai or Navien and you should be fine.  I'll have to step up in size because I have a dedicated hot water circulation run that needs a water recirculater running to it and those only exist in the larger models.  

Did you go this route with the recirc pump?

My water heater has been dying (died completely today) and I have solicited five bids. I have decided to go with a Navien 210A, which has the condenser, but I am not going with the recirc pump. As I understand it they go a long way towards reducing the typical savings you would get from going tankless w/condenser.

Did you have a very long run that took more than 35-45 seconds to get hot water to?

Did you also add a water filtration or conditioning or softening system? We have very hard water in SD so I am almost certain I am going with a carbon/limestone filtration system to provide whole home filtered drinking water and reduce wear on the new water heater.

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7 hours ago, Chaka said:

Did you go this route with the recirc pump?

My water heater has been dying (died completely today) and I have solicited five bids. I have decided to go with a Navien 210A, which has the condenser, but I am not going with the recirc pump. As I understand it they go a long way towards reducing the typical savings you would get from going tankless w/condenser.

Did you have a very long run that took more than 35-45 seconds to get hot water to?

Did you also add a water filtration or conditioning or softening system? We have very hard water in SD so I am almost certain I am going with a carbon/limestone filtration system to provide whole home filtered drinking water and reduce wear on the new water heater.

We actually moved before I had to replace the HW tanks.  I never got to this.  However, in my new house, the WH looks to be on it's last leg, so I am researching again.  Biggest problem for me right now is that we don't have gas.  There aren't even lines run into the neighborhood, so I'd have to have a tank buried in the yard as well.  I started a general plumbing thread because we too have really hard water and I was asking similar questions.  My problem is installation.  Water comes into our house, splits in the wall and the only access I seem to have to cold water supply is when it comes into the garage to the WH.  The softener hardware needs to be in line prior to the split, otherwise only my hot water will be "softened".

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16 hours ago, bucksoh said:

Have both, put laminate down in basement,  does have issues brought up already,  vinyl is upstairs it has had a 1/2 gallon  paint thrown on it and wipes right up.  Dogs don't leave scuff marks on it like laminate.  Have pic above. Ill try to take pic of laminate today and post it.  If i had to do it all over i would have put down vinyl in the basement.

https://i.imgur.com/RNa4Ser.jpg

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51 minutes ago, Grahamburn said:

I think I'm going to renovate my bathroom just so my wife has to throw away all of the bottles in the cabinets that are standing upside down so she can squeeze out the last damn drop of whatever it is.

Just wait until she leaves the house and toss them all.

In situations like this it's much easier to gain forgiveness than permission.

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9 hours ago, The Commish said:

We actually moved before I had to replace the HW tanks.  I never got to this.  However, in my new house, the WH looks to be on it's last leg, so I am researching again.  Biggest problem for me right now is that we don't have gas.  There aren't even lines run into the neighborhood, so I'd have to have a tank buried in the yard as well.  I started a general plumbing thread because we too have really hard water and I was asking similar questions.  My problem is installation.  Water comes into our house, splits in the wall and the only access I seem to have to cold water supply is when it comes into the garage to the WH.  The softener hardware needs to be in line prior to the split, otherwise only my hot water will be "softened".

I gotta be honest this #### is damn confusing and it feels intentional.

Going tankless is going to be relatively easy, plenty of good manufacturers (Noritz, Navien & Rinnai seem to be the most common).  Where it gets confusing is with the water treatment options.

I have had six different plumbers or water filtration companies out and am getting six different opinions.

I think what I understand so far is that water softening with a salt removes the calcium and magnesium that could potentially lead to scaling of the water heater over time.  Most tankless systems come with a 15 year warranty on the heat pump and lesser lengths on the electronic components (typically five years IIRC).  Softened water is also apparently safe to drink.  Some water softeners also come with carbon filters that address some of the potential chemicals and contaminants, but if those things are a real concern for you you would likely need a reverse osmosis system (R/O) installed at the sites you typically get your drinking water from.  You can take a middle ground approach and just get a chloramine filter in front of your softener which will provide additional protection for your softener, water heater and copper pipes.  Again if other chemical contaminants are a concern for you then the R/O system will still be necessary.

Right now my bids for water heater installation are running $3,725-$4,800 the high end looks like the outlier so about $4,000 installed seems realistic.

Water softener plus R/O will run about $2,500 installed with about $400 for additional R/O systems.

The chloramine filter runs around a grand.

At this point whole home filtration (carbon/limestone) just seems oversold and it underdelivers, particularly in hard water areas.

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25 minutes ago, Chaka said:

I gotta be honest this #### is damn confusing and it feels intentional.

Going tankless is going to be relatively easy, plenty of good manufacturers (Noritz, Navien & Rinnai seem to be the most common).  Where it gets confusing is with the water treatment options.

I have had six different plumbers or water filtration companies out and am getting six different opinions.

I think what I understand so far is that water softening with a salt removes the calcium and magnesium that could potentially lead to scaling of the water heater over time.  Most tankless systems come with a 15 year warranty on the heat pump and lesser lengths on the electronic components (typically five years IIRC).  Softened water is also apparently safe to drink.  Some water softeners also come with carbon filters that address some of the potential chemicals and contaminants, but if those things are a real concern for you you would likely need a reverse osmosis system (R/O) installed at the sites you typically get your drinking water from.  You can take a middle ground approach and just get a chloramine filter in front of your softener which will provide additional protection for your softener, water heater and copper pipes.  Again if other chemical contaminants are a concern for you then the R/O system will still be necessary.

Right now my bids for water heater installation are running $3,725-$4,800 the high end looks like the outlier so about $4,000 installed seems realistic.

Water softener plus R/O will run about $2,500 installed with about $400 for additional R/O systems.

The chloramine filter runs around a grand.

At this point whole home filtration (carbon/limestone) just seems oversold and it underdelivers, particularly in hard water areas.

I'm with you GB.  The price you got for the WH seems about right....around $4000.  That's what we were going to have to pay.  I haven't gotten that far on water softeners vs full on filtration.  As it stands right now, the water that comes through my regular fridge water filter tastes just fine.  I have a ton of fixtures and appliances original to the house (about 15 years old) that I want to replace both because they are ugly and most of the faucets leak.  They leak because of all the build up from the water.  I know this because I took the one faucet apart, replaced the parts and it was fine.  The crap inside the fixture was unreal.  I don't see how I was getting water out at all.  So my goal is to get rid of all that crap, not because water tastes bad, but because if I replace everything I want to replace it's going to cost several thousand dollars (appliances, fixtures, tubs etc).  If I'm going to do that, I want to make sure the water doesn't #### up my new equipment.

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15 minutes ago, The Commish said:

I'm with you GB.  The price you got for the WH seems about right....around $4000.  That's what we were going to have to pay.  I haven't gotten that far on water softeners vs full on filtration.  As it stands right now, the water that comes through my regular fridge water filter tastes just fine.  I have a ton of fixtures and appliances original to the house (about 15 years old) that I want to replace both because they are ugly and most of the faucets leak.  They leak because of all the build up from the water.  I know this because I took the one faucet apart, replaced the parts and it was fine.  The crap inside the fixture was unreal.  I don't see how I was getting water out at all.  So my goal is to get rid of all that crap, not because water tastes bad, but because if I replace everything I want to replace it's going to cost several thousand dollars (appliances, fixtures, tubs etc).  If I'm going to do that, I want to make sure the water doesn't #### up my new equipment.

I dig it.

One thing to watch out for when choosing a contractor is they will try to sell you on the idea that softening & purification will clean scaling that has already built up within your pipes.  I had one guy tell me that there was no real evidence to back up those claims.  I am going with that guy for my softener and R/O system.

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On 1/2/2018 at 10:44 AM, AhrnCityPahnder said:

DIY-guize:   oh yes hi, I didn't see you there.

Has anyone installed a heated floor before?   Considering this as a basement upgrade.  I see there's hydro and electric options.   Hydro more efficient but also a more involved and costlier install.    

Whatcha got?

Absolutely awesome in MN but I planned hydronic radiant floor heat in sync with my geothermal HVAC system. 

If I didn’t have that I would strongly consider the electric mat system that was mentioned above. It takes the chill out of the room and just feels better.

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7 minutes ago, Johnny Rock said:

Absolutely awesome in MN but I planned hydronic radiant floor heat in sync with my geothermal HVAC system. 

If I didn’t have that I would strongly consider the electric mat system that was mentioned above. It takes the chill out of the room and just feels better.

I can't speak to the install but...wow it's just so nice to step onto warm tile in the morning.

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1 hour ago, Chaka said:

I dig it.

One thing to watch out for when choosing a contractor is they will try to sell you on the idea that softening & purification will clean scaling that has already built up within your pipes.  I had one guy tell me that there was no real evidence to back up those claims.  I am going with that guy for my softener and R/O system.

:oldunsure:  That doesn't even make logical sense.  I thought I was going to be able to do this myself, but if they're digging in walls to get to pipes etc, I think I am going to pass...just in the interest of time and getting it done.

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2 hours ago, The Commish said:

:oldunsure:  That doesn't even make logical sense.  I thought I was going to be able to do this myself, but if they're digging in walls to get to pipes etc, I think I am going to pass...just in the interest of time and getting it done.

No. They are not digging into your walls, they are selling the notion that softened water itself (i.e. with no calcium or magnesium) will act to dissolve mineral build up that already exists in your pipes from hard water. Just by virtue of running sofened water through your pipes.

You could possibly do the install yourself but most tankless units require a 3/4" gas line connection and many tanked systems have 1/2" connections. The Navien may accept 1/2" connections, I am verifying that. So if you are comfortable running new gas lines then go for it.

I am not sure what is involved in installing water treatment systems yet but it should just be basic plumbing connections.

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7 hours ago, Chaka said:

No. They are not digging into your walls, they are selling the notion that softened water itself (i.e. with no calcium or magnesium) will act to dissolve mineral build up that already exists in your pipes from hard water. Just by virtue of running sofened water through your pipes.

You could possibly do the install yourself but most tankless units require a 3/4" gas line connection and many tanked systems have 1/2" connections. The Navien may accept 1/2" connections, I am verifying that. So if you are comfortable running new gas lines then go for it.

I am not sure what is involved in installing water treatment systems yet but it should just be basic plumbing connections.

I've done gas lines before but I wouldn't do them here.  We don't even have gas run to the neighborhood.  I'd have to have a tank in my yard.  The "digging into my walls" comment was towards my specific situation.  Instead of the water lines initially splitting in an open place like the garage, they split somewhere in my wall, so in order to do any sort of filtration/softening I either need to alter the line before it gets in the house OR dig into my wall, find where it splits and reconfigure some things so all the water is going through the filtration/softening set up.

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1 hour ago, The Commish said:

I've done gas lines before but I wouldn't do them here.  We don't even have gas run to the neighborhood.  I'd have to have a tank in my yard.  The "digging into my walls" comment was towards my specific situation.  Instead of the water lines initially splitting in an open place like the garage, they split somewhere in my wall, so in order to do any sort of filtration/softening I either need to alter the line before it gets in the house OR dig into my wall, find where it splits and reconfigure some things so all the water is going through the filtration/softening set up.

Gotcha. I know they make outdoor tankless water heaters but I am not sure about filtration/softening systems.

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14 hours ago, Johnny Rock said:

Absolutely awesome in MN but I planned hydronic radiant floor heat in sync with my geothermal HVAC system. 

If I didn’t have that I would strongly consider the electric mat system that was mentioned above. It takes the chill out of the room and just feels better.

 

I love the idea of geothermal HVAC.  

Can you talk about the install / size / cost / satisfaction since then / etc?   

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14 hours ago, Johnny Rock said:

Absolutely awesome in MN but I planned hydronic radiant floor heat in sync with my geothermal HVAC system. 

If I didn’t have that I would strongly consider the electric mat system that was mentioned above. It takes the chill out of the room and just feels better.

We have been planing a home remodel for quite a while now and heated floors in the master bath (wired not hydro) are on the list and iirc they really are not expensive to install, I want to say it will be an additional $500 for about 160 square feet.

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1 hour ago, doowain said:

Currently running a dedicated line from my breaker panel in the unfinished part of my basement to the garage for a beer fridge and a deep freeze (fridge kept kicking the GFCI on the circuit ever 10-12 hours).

What a pain in the ####### ###.

Is the issue running the wires from your basement to your garage?  If so I would consider punching thru your basement wall to the outside and the punch into your garage.   Might not be the prettiest solution but beats fishing wires behind drywall.  Any wires outside need to run in PVC.   

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1 hour ago, berndog said:

Is the issue running the wires from your basement to your garage?  If so I would consider punching thru your basement wall to the outside and the punch into your garage.   Might not be the prettiest solution but beats fishing wires behind drywall.  Any wires outside need to run in PVC.   

No issues.  Just sucked fishing 80 feet of wire through the joists, up through the band board (luckily I was able to use an existing hole) and then through the studs.  I removed the bottom 4x12 section of drywall to get at the studs so I could run it properly.  The drywall was taped and floated, but not finished.  

What do you mean by "wires outside need to run in PVC"?  The garage is attached to the house.  Nothing ever makes it outside.

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6 minutes ago, doowain said:

No issues.  Just sucked fishing 80 feet of wire through the joists, up through the band board (luckily I was able to use an existing hole) and then through the studs.  I removed the bottom 4x12 section of drywall to get at the studs so I could run it properly.  The drywall was taped and floated, but not finished.  

What do you mean by "wires outside need to run in PVC"?  The garage is attached to the house.  Nothing ever makes it outside.

Exposed or buried wiring/cable must be listed for its application. Type UF cable is the most commonly used nonmetallic cable for residential outdoor wiring runs.

UF cable can be direct-buried (without conduit) with a minimum of 24" of cover. 

Wiring buried inside rigid metal (RMC) or intermediate metal (IMC) conduit must have at least 6" of cover; wiring in PVC conduit must have at least 18" of cover. 

Backfill surrounding conduit or cables must be smooth granular material without rocks. 

Low-voltage (no more than 30 volts) wiring must be buried at least 6" deep. 

Buried wiring runs that transition above ground must be protected in conduit from the required cover depth or 18" (whichever is less) to its termination point above ground or at least 8 feet above grade. 

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Just now, belljr said:

Exposed or buried wiring/cable must be listed for its application. Type UF cable is the most commonly used nonmetallic cable for residential outdoor wiring runs.

UF cable can be direct-buried (without conduit) with a minimum of 24" of cover. 

Wiring buried inside rigid metal (RMC) or intermediate metal (IMC) conduit must have at least 6" of cover; wiring in PVC conduit must have at least 18" of cover. 

Backfill surrounding conduit or cables must be smooth granular material without rocks. 

Low-voltage (no more than 30 volts) wiring must be buried at least 6" deep. 

Buried wiring runs that transition above ground must be protected in conduit from the required cover depth or 18" (whichever is less) to its termination point above ground or at least 8 feet above grade. 

lol what

I know what he was getting at.  Just don't know why he mentioned it.  The wire (using NM-B 12/2) never leaves the house.

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4 hours ago, ragincajun said:

 

4 hours ago, ragincajun said:

Link won’t work.  Just google Portamate Lumber Rack System.

Amazon link to product

However, like @offdee said, it’s not being listed at $15. 

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2 hours ago, AhrnCityPahnder said:

 

I love the idea of geothermal HVAC.  

Can you talk about the install / size / cost / satisfaction since then / etc?   

I looked into this a bit when I was thinking about building and then when I looked at a place that had it. 

There’s high variations in price because of all the different factors like how deep they have to go, what they have to dig through, home size, climate of the region, etc.  I think $40,000 was the cheapest I saw and up to $120,000. A lot of what I read was saying that it would be very difficult to ever balance out the costs with saving on standard heating and AC bills. This however, was a disputed argument that varied depending on what I read. 

The other major issue is maintenance. It’s supposed to be maintenance free but nothing lasts forever. Also, unexpected things like tree roots that could cause damage. Whatever the cause it’s going to be a major expense and project to repair. And obviously you can’t build anything on the ground above the system. 

Solar panels seem to be a better option if you want to go with a different system. 

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Kitchen ceiling demo'd out yesterday as part of my lighting project.

 

Some ugly wiring underneath...  at least one open splice.  Plenty of old wiring (luckily most is dead), though at least some of the knob and tube is hot (prev homeowner gave me a certificate certifying it free of knob and tube.  Suppose that will be good to wipe my ### with later tonight)

 

https://imgur.com/gallery/9BEDR

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50 minutes ago, doowain said:

No issues.  Just sucked fishing 80 feet of wire through the joists, up through the band board (luckily I was able to use an existing hole) and then through the studs.  I removed the bottom 4x12 section of drywall to get at the studs so I could run it properly.  The drywall was taped and floated, but not finished.  

What do you mean by "wires outside need to run in PVC"?  The garage is attached to the house.  Nothing ever makes it outside.

I was suggesting rather than fishing 80 feet of wire thru studs you run the wires on the exterior of your house in conduit to your garage.  Sounds like you got it covered and will be enjoying cold beer and frozen food.  :banned:

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49 minutes ago, Borden said:

 

Amazon link to product

However, like @offdee said, it’s not being listed at $15. 

It was about 2 or 3weeks ago.  I asked my wife to pick one up for me and she said they had like 15-20 in stock.  Maybe your local Lowe’s has them for the lower price, just not online?  I just searched mine and it says out of stock now.

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