What's new
Fantasy Football - Footballguys Forums

Welcome to Our Forums. Once you've registered and logged in, you're primed to talk football, among other topics, with the sharpest and most experienced fantasy players on the internet.

Home-owners...What are your current projects? (1 Viewer)

It was about 2 or 3weeks ago.  I asked my wife to pick one up for me and she said they had like 15-20 in stock.  Maybe your local Lowe’s has them for the lower price, just not online?  I just searched mine and it says out of stock now.
I will check it out. But whatever the case it seems like you got a great deal on yours. I’m all about the deals when it comes to home stuff. In store it seems like there’s always a great deal on something that they want cleared out and a lot of the time they don’t advertise online.

 
What is your current house heating system?

Where do you live?  I could picture heating a basement floor being a bit of an energy hog (ie expensive)

Another thing to consider is a 'warm' floor material, such as cork

https://www.cancork.com/best-basement-flooring-cork/

We installed cork recently (not a basement) and love it.  Even when house is cold the cork is warm
Have someone coming over to measure our downstairs rooms.   She's bringing over some cork flooring samples.  What are your thoughts on it compared to hardwood or laminates?   What about dogs?

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Easy to install.  Has a warm feeling like radiant heating, and it’s softer. IMO.  It can scratch and does need maintenance like laminate from time to time.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Have someone coming over to measure our downstairs rooms.   She's bringing over some cork flooring samples.  What are your thoughts on it compared to hardwood or laminates?   What about dogs?
Can't say on dogs (cats seem to give it no issue).  Reportedly works great for dogs, much better than laminate for instance.  

What I like about it:

-cool looking

-soft

-warm to the touch

 
any cons?  thanks
Honestly I don't have any.  It is a little 'non-traditional' so if you were to sell a house, it could turn certain people off?  

It's not the cheapest not most expensive, somewhere in the middle

It is very environmentally friendly if you're into that

Let me find a photo of my finished product

 
For what it's worth I laid it myself....very easy (click into place).  Took me a couple hours.  The directions called for a vapor barrier underneath (plastic) but I skipped it, there is no moisture below (this is the third floor of a 100 yr old home) and it's naturally water resistant for any spills (same reason they use cork in wine bottles).  

I think a common concern is that it will get scuffed.  We got samples...  different samples (companies) responded differently to our test (which was to drag a key over it).  The one I went with was pretty scuff resistant, and scuffs are hard to see in general due to the nature of the cork.  It is sort of 'self-healing'.  If I were to have a serious damage to a piece I have extras, will be a bit of a pain to replace but not too bad.  Anyway, I would encourage multiple samples from multiple companies and make your own decision

 
Borden said:
I will check it out. But whatever the case it seems like you got a great deal on yours. I’m all about the deals when it comes to home stuff. In store it seems like there’s always a great deal on something that they want cleared out and a lot of the time they don’t advertise online.
Merry Christmas my friend.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=36

I find all kinds of deals on here.  This is where I saw the deal posted.  

 
The Home Depot one can get good.  I have seen people buy the large/fall tool chests for .01 and many more things.  It’s very hit or miss, but if you live near a cluster of Home Depot’s and are bored it’s kind of like a treasure hunt.

 
Oh boy. The accountant is going to hate you but the Visa people are going to hug you. 
For you other folks in the thread.....  Anytime I need to buy something such as a tool or something for the house I search the forum I posted.  I have found a pack of 3 LED mag lites for $5.  $50 hoses for $5.  I was giving them away because I sort of overbought.  I also found the Phillips Hue starter kit which has three color bulbs and the bridge for $49.

It is very random.

 
I'm flipping a place I bought after selling my house last October. I've flipped 6 homes since 2010, not necessarily successfully. I worked with a family team so profits were divided to the point of ugh while I carried extra expenses on the losers. I swore I'd never do it again, but this one is me alone and in an old hood with very little $ risk. A time waster while I decide on a final destination. 

So I have a few ground to rafters cracks in the exterior walls. It's heavy roll on tex coat from the 70s. I had a stucco guy come out to bid. He won't repair it. Said that's a law suit waiting to happen. For $11 a sq ft, he'll remove all of it and do real stucco. So I got a second opinion. It was worse. I guess Sears lost a law suit over this stuff failing. If the original owners were on top of things Sears would have replaced it up until 1984. So here's his solution only to be performed my an amateur home owner as no contractor would take the risk:

Using the cracks and drilling small holes here and there inject slightly thickened pva glue under the failing texture, then screw down 1/4" sheets of ply over it, then lean 2x4s against the ply and hang heavy buckets from nails in the lumber to apply even pressure and re-laminate the texture by sections.  :lmao:  or  :yes:  I'm  :unsure:

 
I do not recommend cork in any place that has a sink (kitchen, bath).  We liked it.  The pluses mentioned above apply.  It's warm, doesn't break dishes if dropped (sometimes), better work surface to stand on, fine for pets, easy to work with, divets can be fixed with glue and sawdust from similar wood, etc.

I had a drain plug up and leaked out.  Not a gusher, but enough water that it took towels to soak up.  The water hit the backing surface and in 6 hours warped the entire run of click together cork.  That causes all sorts of issues across the floor as things want to expand.  I pulled things apart and tried to save the floor, but it usually breaks the tabs when they go together the second time.  Never was the same

For a family/living room...fine.  maybe even dining room.  Kitchen and bath never again and will not recommend.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I just put a new Central AC/furnace in. What a rip-off these guys are. Got quotes from 5800-7600. Called a friend that works at a distributor and ordered the whole set up. $2100 delivered. Got a certified HVAC tech starting his own business (Craiglist) to put it in for $550. All done, works great.

 
I love the idea of geothermal HVAC.  

Can you talk about the install / size / cost / satisfaction since then / etc?   
I had a full Geothermal HVAC system installed on a new 4,750 sq ft (750 is still not heated currently) build in 2009 in MN. Horizontal loop field with 8,000 ft of underground piping. Two indoor units. One is hydronic for basement floor, all tiled floors and garage floor. The second unit is forced air. I believe 8 or 9 tons total. 

Cost was about $50,000 which is about $20k-$25k more than a conventional forced air furnace and AC would’ve been. The sizing and plan is totally dependent on what you’re trying to do and the amount of heating and cooling you need for your building size, insulation, amount of glass, etc. The only way to do it is with a Manual J residential load calculation. The old eyeball test or “rules of thumb” for tonnage are bunk and for lazy contractors. Experience in geothermal is a must. 

Satisfaction is outstanding. Virtually no complaints but a few ticky tack things. 

I’ll answer more if you want. 

 
I do not recommend cork in any place that has a sink (kitchen, bath).  We liked it.  The pluses mentioned above apply.  It's warm, doesn't break dishes if dropped (sometimes), better work surface to stand on, fine for pets, easy to work with, divets can be fixed with glue and sawdust from similar wood, etc.

I had a drain plug up and leaked out.  Not a gusher, but enough water that it took towels to soak up.  The water hit the backing surface and in 6 hours warped the entire run of click together cork.  That causes all sorts of issues across the floor as things want to expand.  I pulled things apart and tried to save the floor, but it usually breaks the tabs when they go together the second time.  Never was the same

For a family/living room...fine.  maybe even dining room.  Kitchen and bath never again and will not 
I have vinyl with a cork backing, and have had pools of water due to kids spilling it on the floor.  Never had a problem, sounds like it was laid wrong.  Sorry gl

 
I have vinyl with a cork backing, and have had pools of water due to kids spilling it on the floor.  Never had a problem, sounds like it was laid wrong.  Sorry gl
Spills on top were ok.  The overflow from a backed up drain got in along the side and therefore underneath.   It's a floating install, so the sides are vulberable.  Maybe some sort of sealant along the side wad needed?

 
After living here for 12 years we finally cleaned up our basement and made a living area.  It's not finished but it suits our needs for now.  One thing that is annoying is the sump pump, which runs quite a bit.  

I'm thinking of building a sound-reducing box to put over it.  Maybe a 3-sided box with a top without cutouts for the pipes that I could slide over it with the open end butting up against the wall.  I would line the inside with acoustic foam.

Anyone done anything like this?

 
Sorry if this has been covered before, but looking at purchasing new hardwood.  Looking for distressed/hand scraped solid hardwood.  Where is the best place to buy at a reasonable price these days?

 
Anyone have experience with one of these "smart heat-pump water heaters"?  My current "old school tank" heater is still cranking it out, but is getting up there in age.  Don't know if I want to eventually replace it with tankless, or one of these.  I don't have gas run to my house currently, but I guess could take that on if needed - so I was thinking I'd have to replace it with something electric. 

These heat-pump type units take the heat out of the air and use it to heat water.  As it would be installed in my finished basement, I'm afraid it would make the basement uncomfortably cold in the winter - but it would be a nice benefit in the summer. 

 
Sorry if this has been covered before, but looking at purchasing new hardwood.  Looking for distressed/hand scraped solid hardwood.  Where is the best place to buy at a reasonable price these days?
Try Longleaf Lumber.  They are local to me, but ship throughout the US.  Excellent reputation

 
After living here for 12 years we finally cleaned up our basement and made a living area.  It's not finished but it suits our needs for now.  One thing that is annoying is the sump pump, which runs quite a bit.  

I'm thinking of building a sound-reducing box to put over it.  Maybe a 3-sided box with a top without cutouts for the pipes that I could slide over it with the open end butting up against the wall.  I would line the inside with acoustic foam.

Anyone done anything like this?
Have you thought about stopping / reducing water intrusion to the basement?  

 
someone is always espousing the value of cork floors ... is it @El Floppo?
Yes...big fan, but don't get many clients to bite for whatever reason.

Easy to install.  Has a warm feeling like radiant heating, and it’s softer. IMO.  It can scratch and does need maintenance like laminate from time to time.


talk to me!


Honestly I don't have any.  It is a little 'non-traditional' so if you were to sell a house, it could turn certain people off?  

It's not the cheapest not most expensive, somewhere in the middle

It is very environmentally friendly if you're into that

Let me find a photo of my finished product


For what it's worth I laid it myself....very easy (click into place).  Took me a couple hours.  The directions called for a vapor barrier underneath (plastic) but I skipped it, there is no moisture below (this is the third floor of a 100 yr old home) and it's naturally water resistant for any spills (same reason they use cork in wine bottles).  

I think a common concern is that it will get scuffed.  We got samples...  different samples (companies) responded differently to our test (which was to drag a key over it).  The one I went with was pretty scuff resistant, and scuffs are hard to see in general due to the nature of the cork.  It is sort of 'self-healing'.  If I were to have a serious damage to a piece I have extras, will be a bit of a pain to replace but not too bad.  Anyway, I would encourage multiple samples from multiple companies and make your own decision
Willed and Osaurus nailed it. 

 
Have you thought about stopping / reducing water intrusion to the basement?  
Yes I have.  I have had various quotes with various solutions, but they still result in water going into a pit that gets pumped out.  One guy did say he could put a gravity drain in that bypasses the pump, but I'm skeptical.  We do have a grade in the back, but I don't think it's enough.  We back up against a detention basin that with heavy rain fills with water.  I would be very afraid of that water wanting to come back into my house.

So, regardless, that pump is going to run, and I would like to quiet it.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
After living here for 12 years we finally cleaned up our basement and made a living area.  It's not finished but it suits our needs for now.  One thing that is annoying is the sump pump, which runs quite a bit.  

I'm thinking of building a sound-reducing box to put over it.  Maybe a 3-sided box with a top without cutouts for the pipes that I could slide over it with the open end butting up against the wall.  I would line the inside with acoustic foam.

Anyone done anything like this?
Let me know how this goes for you.  Thinking of doing something similar for my well pump.

 
After living here for 12 years we finally cleaned up our basement and made a living area.  It's not finished but it suits our needs for now.  One thing that is annoying is the sump pump, which runs quite a bit.  

I'm thinking of building a sound-reducing box to put over it.  Maybe a 3-sided box with a top without cutouts for the pipes that I could slide over it with the open end butting up against the wall.  I would line the inside with acoustic foam.

Anyone done anything like this?
How old is your pump? Replacing an older pump with a new quieter version might make a big difference.

One potential issue I could see with the box is over heating of the pump/motor. I’m not sure how much of an issue this might be but you’d basically be sealing it in a small, well insulated box, which could lead to the over heating.

 
How old is your pump? Replacing an older pump with a new quieter version might make a big difference.

One potential issue I could see with the box is over heating of the pump/motor. I’m not sure how much of an issue this might be but you’d basically be sealing it in a small, well insulated box, which could lead to the over heating.
It's only a few years old.  I think we're on our 3rd pump.

The pump is already in a pit with a lid.  If overheating was an issue wouldn't this cause it?  

Based on my research, a lot of people who finish their basements with a pump in the living area have some type of insulated closet around it or a built-in furniture around it.

Also, wouldn't a submersible pump be cooled from the water?

 
Last edited by a moderator:
It's only a few years old.  I think we're on our 3rd pump.

The pump is already in a pit with a lid.  If overheating was an issue wouldn't this cause it?  

Based on my research, a lot of people who finish their basements with a pump in the living area have some type of insulated closet around it or a built-in furniture around it.

Also, wouldn't a submersible pump be cooled from the water?
I was assuming that the motor wasn’t submerged (and what was making the noise) since you were talking about building a box around it. I put “pump/motor” in my reply but probably should’ve just put motor. 

Is the motor what you’re covering and that the motor isn’t submerged (since you likely aren’t putting an insulated box in the actual sump hole)?

 
I'm flipping a place I bought after selling my house last October.

So I have a few ground to rafters cracks in the exterior walls. It's heavy roll on tex coat from the 70s. I guess Sears lost a law suit over this stuff failing. If the original owners were on top of things Sears would have replaced it up until 1984. So here's a pro's diy only solution:

Using the cracks and drilling small holes here and there inject slightly thickened pva glue under the failing texture, then apply sheets of ply over it, then lean 2x4s against the ply and hang heavy buckets from the lumber to apply even pressure and re-laminate the texture by sections. 
I tested a spot near a window using the cheesy repair idea. A success - the bond (liquid nails) is stronger than the materials it bonded and it flowed perfectly to where it's was needed. I was aware of the cracks when I purchased but discovered this de-lamination issue while pressure washing to prepare for paint. The repaired section handles the pressure washer fine when before I could have washed it off the house. 90+% of the problem is adjacent to windows, the fireplace and a flagstone wall. They're all getting the treatment today (half done). The windows are getting decorative faux shutters. A couple hundred bucks to avert a 20k repair and the house gets dressed up a little. The contractor who came up with the technique checked out the repaired section this morning with the pressure washer and can't see any long term issues. "The bond is stronger than new and still curing."

So paint this weekend. I'm going with the colors of the Haunted Mansion at Disneyland. 

 
I was assuming that the motor wasn’t submerged (and what was making the noise) since you were talking about building a box around it. I put “pump/motor” in my reply but probably should’ve just put motor. 

Is the motor what you’re covering and that the motor isn’t submerged (since you likely aren’t putting an insulated box in the actual sump hole)?
I want to cover the pit, which contains the pump/motor inside.

 
I've been looking into redoing my main floor bathroom for some time now. Long story short, some guy last week didn't know how to drive and backed his car into my house (not sure how he managed to do it exactly) but it perfectly hit where my bathroom is. There wasn't any structural damage and the car didn't go into my house at all, but my tile inside of my bathroom is cracked along the outside wall. You think there is a way to paylay the damaged tile into a whole new bathroom? The tile is old and im pretty sure I will never find tile quite like this.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
It's only a few years old.  I think we're on our 3rd pump.

The pump is already in a pit with a lid.  If overheating was an issue wouldn't this cause it?  

Based on my research, a lot of people who finish their basements with a pump in the living area have some type of insulated closet around it or a built-in furniture around it.

Also, wouldn't a submersible pump be cooled from the water?
You'll be fine.   

A solid, sealed cover should only be installed on sumps equipped with below-floor pipes that drain directly into the well.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
So we liked what we saw. It's much harder than I was expecting.   Getting a quote back Tuesday.  Hope it doesn't break the bank.
Get them to separate materials and installation

As I said, I paid $5/sq ft a year or so ago... you can also shop the material online

 
I want to cover the pit, which contains the pump/motor inside.
can you tell what the noise is?

Often it's the check valve - is that the noise in your case?  Is your piping well-secured or is it 'rattling'?  Adding clamps can help there.  

 
can you tell what the noise is?

Often it's the check valve - is that the noise in your case?  Is your piping well-secured or is it 'rattling'?  Adding clamps can help there.  
It's the pump motor.  The check valve has a little bit of a clunk but doubt I can do anything about that.

 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top