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Home-owners...What are your current projects?


wilked

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38 minutes ago, AAABatteries said:

Looks great.  Seems close to the house - what’s the code where you are?

I like the look of those bricks, where did you get them?

Code?  :shrug: it’s in my backyard behind the garage, if the city tells me to move it I guess I’d move it, but I’m generally one not to get the city involved in my home improvements unless I have to

Home Depot.  Think it might be these but not positive same model

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oldcastle-Beltis-4-in-x-11-in-x-6-in-Tan-Charcoal-Concrete-Retaining-Wall-Block-140-Pieces-Pallet-16253217/311781599

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so many projects, but i am knee deep in putting up a an above ground pool. just built a retaining wall to hold it up, Rented a bobcat which made life easy, but in the middle of moving 4 tons of sand to also build a sand area. Also have a fence, deck and bar to build.

Back already feels like it is toast from the retaining wall and moving the sand, so hoping to at least have the pool up around Memorial day. fence shouldn't be too crazy either because only building a straight wall about 35 feet. the deck will be a little challenging around the pool, but can build that while the pool is up. 

any hints, thoughts, or whatever would be welcome. Nervous about putting the pool up it is 12' x 25'

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14 minutes ago, Dan Lambskin said:

Code?  :shrug: it’s in my backyard behind the garage, if the city tells me to move it I guess I’d move it, but I’m generally one not to get the city involved in my home improvements unless I have to

Home Depot.  Think it might be these but not positive same model

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oldcastle-Beltis-4-in-x-11-in-x-6-in-Tan-Charcoal-Concrete-Retaining-Wall-Block-140-Pieces-Pallet-16253217/311781599

hmm wondering about a a fire pit myself. got extra retaining wall stones to build one myself. hoping to put up a fence quick enough so i don't have anybody peeping at all the permits i will be ignoring to build in my backyard

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On 5/1/2020 at 8:18 AM, The Z Machine said:

Today is my first day of a 90 day furlough. I have a decent sized list of home repair work going.

One of the bigger projects involves reducing the bounce of the floor in the dining room. If you step strongly or quickly, it makes the dishes rattle in the cabinet.

I have access to the floor from underneath, as there's a decent height crawl space (hands and knees, can sit cross legged underneath the joists). I've been researching ways to stiffen the joists and I think I'll be adding a 2x4 "flange" to the bottom of the joists with the most bounce. Glue and screw with a brace in the center until the adhesive cures. I've read this is more effective than sistering the joist with another 2x10.

Anyone done anything like this?

i did in my rental. but i went with a 6x6 because i had a piece laying around. The 2x4 flange could be just as good though. good news is that is nice a cheap to do, so if not good enough easy to fix. 

i got a problem in my current house. it is a new house and they built it like a piece of ####. used like 1/4" plywood for most of the underlayment, and it sucks enough that i can hear my 7 pound cat walking around upstairs. not sure there is a fix for it beside sell the house before it gets worse 

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On 5/1/2020 at 10:18 AM, Bull Dozier said:

Question for anyone with experience on tillers.

Last summer, we had our pool taken out.  I laid black sod over the top, and laid down some grass seed before it snowed.  After it snowed, I discovered I didn't lay near enough seed (I put down the recommended amount for a normal fall re-seed, not enough to seed a blank canvas of black dirt).  So now I have just sparse bits of grass coming through.  I now want to get sod and lay it down so I can finally once and for all have a decent lawn.

So here's my question.  I appears I should till the soil and mix in some fertilized to prepare for the sod.  The equipment rental places around here are all closed, so I can't rent a decent piece of equipment.  Is a $100-$150 tiller worth it?  It looks like they are designed for gardens, but I have at least 1600+ sq of yard to prepare.  I'll only use this thing once most likely, but I don't want to spend that much and have it not be able to do the job.  Thoughts?

hard to say. you likely would only use the tiller once, maybe twice, but it certainly wouldnt hurt. might be worth waiting a week or 2 to see if they open the rental places so you can jsut rent one. i have been able to rent some stuff lately from a garden store and a hardware store, so you might be in luck

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On 5/1/2020 at 10:18 AM, Bull Dozier said:

Question for anyone with experience on tillers.

Last summer, we had our pool taken out.  I laid black sod over the top, and laid down some grass seed before it snowed.  After it snowed, I discovered I didn't lay near enough seed (I put down the recommended amount for a normal fall re-seed, not enough to seed a blank canvas of black dirt).  So now I have just sparse bits of grass coming through.  I now want to get sod and lay it down so I can finally once and for all have a decent lawn.

So here's my question.  I appears I should till the soil and mix in some fertilized to prepare for the sod.  The equipment rental places around here are all closed, so I can't rent a decent piece of equipment.  Is a $100-$150 tiller worth it?  It looks like they are designed for gardens, but I have at least 1600+ sq of yard to prepare.  I'll only use this thing once most likely, but I don't want to spend that much and have it not be able to do the job.  Thoughts?

Why do you think you need to till it? When we redid ball fields we just cut the top layer, regrade and sod.   So what I'm saying is you could just loosen the soil, and roll out sod.    You don't need to mix in a bunch of fertilizer

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Just got done running conduit in the garage.  I now have a separate breaker for the room I am finishing in the basement.  I have a dedicated outlet for my table saw, one for the chop saw, and three additional outlets for whatever the hell else I decide to plug in.  

Finishing the rest of the basement is coming along.  I have the electrical run, the drywall is up.  Doors are installed.  Lights are in and working on the dimmer and the additional lights in the two remaining unfinished areas are now working since I have power.  

Next step is to mud.  I think I will suck at this, but I watched enough videos that at least I won't suck worse than some. 

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10 hours ago, modogg said:

hard to say. you likely would only use the tiller once, maybe twice, but it certainly wouldnt hurt. might be worth waiting a week or 2 to see if they open the rental places so you can jsut rent one. i have been able to rent some stuff lately from a garden store and a hardware store, so you might be in luck

Rental places recently opened up for curbside pickup, so my procrastination saved me a purchase.

1 hour ago, belljr said:

 

 

Why do you think you need to till it? When we redid ball fields we just cut the top layer, regrade and sod.   So what I'm saying is you could just loosen the soil, and roll out sod.    You don't need to mix in a bunch of fertilizer

I think I need to till and fertilize it because that's what the websites say are the best steps to take to lay sod.  I want to do everything I can, since several years ago, the area behind this used to be overgrown.  I had it cleared and sod laid by a small landscaping company.  It is now more weeds than grass.  I want to give this new section the best start I can, since it butts up against the weedy area I am battling.

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Count me among the LVP converts.  Several posters have talked about it previously and they did not steer me wrong. 
I just finished laying a LVP floor in my kitchen, laundry and hallway, roughly 400 sq ft. 
I used the Lifeproof brand from HD and it went together easily. Using the tapping block and watching the tiny seams disappear was oddly satisfying.  Making the cuts under the door jambs was by far the most time consuming part but that was more due to inexperience and being geometry challenged. I took my time and the cuts fit perfectly. 
I was able to get the floor laid in a weekend and took a couple evenings to finish the trim. The room looks fantastic know that everything is complete. 

Next up is replacing a couple entry doors 
 

 

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5 minutes ago, Uruk-Hai said:

How old is your house? Have you done this before?

The house is roughly 30 years old and it will be my first time. 
One door leads to the garage and the other leads to the deck.  I’m a little concerned I may find  wood rot around the deck door. 
 

Am I crazy to tackle this myself?  From the research I’ve done it doesn’t seem that bad. 

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Just now, berndog said:

The house is roughly 30 years old and it will be my first time. 
One door leads to the garage and the other leads to the deck.  I’m a little concerned I may find  wood rot around the deck door. 
 

Am I crazy to tackle this myself?  From the research I’ve done it doesn’t seem that bad. 

No, it's not bad. Your house should be uniform on measurements unless it was stick-built by anti-govt rebels.

Are you getting prehung doors or just replacing the slabs?

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2 minutes ago, Uruk-Hai said:

No, it's not bad. Your house should be uniform on measurements unless it was stick-built by anti-govt rebels.

Are you getting prehung doors or just replacing the slabs?

One of the reasons I’m replacing them is they don’t close tightly and even with new weather-stripping there are still gaps. I think to address that problem I need to go pre-hung.  I’m open to suggestions. 

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1 minute ago, berndog said:

One of the reasons I’m replacing them is they don’t close tightly and even with new weather-stripping there are still gaps. I think to address that problem I need to go pre-hung.  I’m open to suggestions. 

I see. You're going to have to rip out the old jambs, header, sill, and exterior trim. When you put the new unit in, make sure it's plumb/level - have long drywall screws on hand with a bunch of shims. You may also have to redo your keeper space in the jamb for the lock. Houses settle over time and throw doors out of whack (they also could have not been installed correctly in the first place). Patch whatever rot you have behind the stuff you take out. 

DO NOT use that damned expanding spray foam to fill the open spaces.  Take your time and press in some insulation. Caulk the outside, you should be good. 

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5 hours ago, Uruk-Hai said:

I see. You're going to have to rip out the old jambs, header, sill, and exterior trim. When you put the new unit in, make sure it's plumb/level - have long drywall screws on hand with a bunch of shims. You may also have to redo your keeper space in the jamb for the lock. Houses settle over time and throw doors out of whack (they also could have not been installed correctly in the first place). Patch whatever rot you have behind the stuff you take out. 

DO NOT use that damned expanding spray foam to fill the open spaces.  Take your time and press in some insulation. Caulk the outside, you should be good. 

Do you just not like spray foam and what is the reasoning behind not using spray foam.  I ask because I replaced the door in my Reno and used spray foam.  Thanks in advance.

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17 hours ago, Uruk-Hai said:

I see. You're going to have to rip out the old jambs, header, sill, and exterior trim. When you put the new unit in, make sure it's plumb/level - have long drywall screws on hand with a bunch of shims. You may also have to redo your keeper space in the jamb for the lock. Houses settle over time and throw doors out of whack (they also could have not been installed correctly in the first place). Patch whatever rot you have behind the stuff you take out. 

DO NOT use that damned expanding spray foam to fill the open spaces.  Take your time and press in some insulation. Caulk the outside, you should be good. 

This is one of those jobs I have been looking at as well. I am in a manufactured home, does that make any difference? 

The smart thing to do here would be to pay a pro but financially I should do it myself. This project does scare me some.

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1 minute ago, prosopis said:

This is one of those jobs I have been looking at as well. I am in a manufactured home, does that make any difference? 

The smart thing to do here would be to pay a pro but financially I should do it myself. This project does scare me some.

:lol: We both know that's not happening.

It's not hard - stay level and plumb.

I'm assuming - but don't know for sure - that manufactured homes use standard door measurements. Maybe check with the home manufacturer?

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I need new doors, replaced screen doors a few years ago in an older house (1940s) and just half ### rebuilt the jambs (replaced rotted wood, etc).  Completely screwed it up, neither door fit right

wish I had just put in completely new frames, now I don’t want to deal with redoing interior/exterior to do it properly 

getting new siding is “on the list”, probably would do new windows at the same time and take care of the doors then, so I will have to live with them as is a few more years

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I'm not sure if this is the right thread but I'll give it a shot.  I have a ceiling fan and light controlled by a single switch and remote (no pull chains).  Recently all 3 bulbs flickered and turned off.  The fan still works fine.  I checked the bulbs and they work fine.  I checked the wiring on the light kit and the single pin connectors and that doesn't appear to be the issue.  The bulbs are all within the maximum wattage allowed.  Any thoughts?  

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I've got a number of things I've done over the last two months, some I've done myself, other I've paid somebody to do. We bought a house built in 1906 and the previous owners lived here for 52 years. They had not updated much since the 1970s, so there's lots to do if we want and can afford it. Bay Area, by the way, so almost everything big that we want to do has around a $75k to $100k sticker to start. 

  1. Purchased and installed a Schlage Connect lock. This was easy DIY. This, of course, let to installing a new Emtek Hera mortise lock. This was not easy DIY given my previous door entry set, which had different alignment. So I paid for install. I also added the address and a kickplate. Here's the door.
  2. Tore down a failing fence which rested on top of a rock wall. Not interested in digging new post holes so neighbor and I paid for rebuild. Cedar pickets. Looks good.
  3. Tearing down VERY old tongue and groove paneling in attic to support attic improvement. Looking to add 300 to 400 sf. and at $700 to $800/sf in this area, this is some serious equity. I'll be serving as GC for new roof, new electrical (I'll probably lay some conduit myself), HVAC (just small furnace) and drywall (I will never do drywall again if I can help it). Hoping to be done this summer.
  4. Tore out much of the landscaping the lines the front of our house. Two small redwoods, camellias and some other shrubs. Root balls sucked.
  5. Have opened maybe 5 previously-painted shut windows using a hammer and a joint knife. Total game changer to how a room feels.
  6. I've powerwashed a lot of the hardscaping around the house. Amazing how dirty things are and you don't even know it.
  7. Have a similar problem to Z Machine. Have not fully explored but happy to see ideas in here.

So much more to do, if I want. Seems overwhelming at times. Even the GC part. 

 

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2 hours ago, fred_1_15301 said:

I'm not sure if this is the right thread but I'll give it a shot.  I have a ceiling fan and light controlled by a single switch and remote (no pull chains).  Recently all 3 bulbs flickered and turned off.  The fan still works fine.  I checked the bulbs and they work fine.  I checked the wiring on the light kit and the single pin connectors and that doesn't appear to be the issue.  The bulbs are all within the maximum wattage allowed.  Any thoughts?  

So you own a voltmeter?

 

https://www.hunker.com/13414356/how-to-use-a-multimeter-to-test-light-fixtures

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8 hours ago, Uruk-Hai said:

:lol: We both know that's not happening.

It's not hard - stay level and plumb.

I'm assuming - but don't know for sure - that manufactured homes use standard door measurements. Maybe check with the home manufacturer?

🤣 You got me and your right thats not happening. I will have to read up on this before I get brave enough to tackle it. For starters I will have to google "what is plumb" I also need to repair the floor in front of the door. It has rotted from rain water getting in. I have the same problem at mty back door.

I should be done with the shed roof tomorrow. I did not buy enough shingles so I had to go into town for more and now it is just to hot for me on that roof. I am super close to being done though. Just two more rows and then figure out the caps.

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5 hours ago, Sandeman said:
  1. Tearing down VERY old tongue and groove paneling in attic to support attic improvement. Looking to add 300 to 400 sf. and at $700 to $800/sf in this area, this is some serious equity. I'll be serving as GC for new roof, new electrical (I'll probably lay some conduit myself), HVAC (just small furnace) and drywall (I will never do drywall again if I can help it). Hoping to be done this summer.

:lmao:

That's like an order of magnitude than my house.   I would have a 3M+ house there.

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9 hours ago, fred_1_15301 said:

I'm not sure if this is the right thread but I'll give it a shot.  I have a ceiling fan and light controlled by a single switch and remote (no pull chains).  Recently all 3 bulbs flickered and turned off.  The fan still works fine.  I checked the bulbs and they work fine.  I checked the wiring on the light kit and the single pin connectors and that doesn't appear to be the issue.  The bulbs are all within the maximum wattage allowed.  Any thoughts?  

Search YouTube for hunter fan light flickering.  It is an easy fix to open it up and remove a resistor block in the fan.  My light started to flicker, then wouldn’t turn on.  Once I removed the module, it worked fine.  

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So here's a question for you structural engineers on my attic remodel. Two questions in fact.

  1. I have exposed down to the framing the peaked, cathedral ceiling (like this but 1906 version). There are collar ties that I'd like to expose when the drywall goes in. The current ties look poor, although they are solid old-growth legit 2x4s. Can I replace scrappy-looking collar ties in the attic with nicer wood 4x4s so I have nicer beams exposed?
  2. I am putting in Velux roof windows. They are beautiful. What kind of support to I need to add to the roof framing in addition to headers and footers to support the frame around the window install? I am hearing that some blocking to support in the bays next to the window insert is a good idea. Thoughts? Happy to do it. Or have the installers do it.

I am tearing out the old wood T&G paneling in the larger of the two rooms (the other was lathe and plaster). I'm starting to feel guilty about it but I just think I should get down to the studs and build up from there. Stuff has probably been there 100 years. At least 50.

 

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1 hour ago, Sandeman said:

So here's a question for you structural engineers on my attic remodel. Two questions in fact.

  1. I have exposed down to the framing the peaked, cathedral ceiling (like this but 1906 version). There are collar ties that I'd like to expose when the drywall goes in. The current ties look poor, although they are solid old-growth legit 2x4s. Can I replace scrappy-looking collar ties in the attic with nicer wood 4x4s so I have nicer beams exposed?
  2. I am putting in Velux roof windows. They are beautiful. What kind of support to I need to add to the roof framing in addition to headers and footers to support the frame around the window install? I am hearing that some blocking to support in the bays next to the window insert is a good idea. Thoughts? Happy to do it. Or have the installers do it.

I am tearing out the old wood T&G paneling in the larger of the two rooms (the other was lathe and plaster). I'm starting to feel guilty about it but I just think I should get down to the studs and build up from there. Stuff has probably been there 100 years. At least 50.

 

Sure, you can replace the collar ties. If you're using 4x4s, you may want to drill and bolt them through, though. You can countersink the bolt head and nut if you don't want them showing - just fill over them.

Man, it's been 25 years since I sold Velux. It was the best product line I ever sold, in that I never ever got one call back - well, except for the nimrods who didn't want to flash them correctly.. I can't recall the framing requirements along the sides - sorry. I know they're made to fit between standard roof framing centers, but don't remember if you have to pad out between the window and the rafter, or outside of the rafter, or not at all. And blocking never hurts. I'm guessing they have installation instructions somewhere you could refer to? 

 

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I had about a quarter of my fence left to pressure wash and ran out of gas ....I did the steps, the driveway, the sidewalk and 3/4 of my fence.  Tomorrow is finishing that up. Then I'm redoing the plastic edge around my deck in some spots.  The edging popped out I didn't have enough spike, I do now.

I have plastic edging because I put small white stone around the deck 

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12 hours ago, fred_1_15301 said:

I'm not sure if this is the right thread but I'll give it a shot.  I have a ceiling fan and light controlled by a single switch and remote (no pull chains).  Recently all 3 bulbs flickered and turned off.  The fan still works fine.  I checked the bulbs and they work fine.  I checked the wiring on the light kit and the single pin connectors and that doesn't appear to be the issue.  The bulbs are all within the maximum wattage allowed.  Any thoughts?  

like @wilked suggested, a voltage meter would be a good start. you can get one pretty cheap. with fan working fine though i assume the motor is ok. i assume you tried new bulbs (even though they weren't the issue) and still didn't work? i would check the wiring in the light kit, and you may have to loosen fan and check wires connecting from a junction box.

sorry no easy answers. had an old tenant that thought issues like that were ghosts, so maybe she was on to something

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13 hours ago, Uruk-Hai said:

Sure, you can replace the collar ties. If you're using 4x4s, you may want to drill and bolt them through, though. You can countersink the bolt head and nut if you don't want them showing - just fill over them.

Man, it's been 25 years since I sold Velux. It was the best product line I ever sold, in that I never ever got one call back - well, except for the nimrods who didn't want to flash them correctly.. I can't recall the framing requirements along the sides - sorry. I know they're made to fit between standard roof framing centers, but don't remember if you have to pad out between the window and the rafter, or outside of the rafter, or not at all. And blocking never hurts. I'm guessing they have installation instructions somewhere you could refer to? 

 

Thanks! Will drywall over the rafters so connection point won't be exposed. I'll probably bolt them on anyway as opposed to nail.

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Shed roof is officially done and it looks pretty good. The real proof in the pudding will be when the monsoons hit. Then I will see if there is any leaks or if the wind will just tear it away. I doubt the wind will be an issue as I used real roofing nails and they had used staples. The staple use is probably why I lost so many shingles in the first place. Time will tell but right now it looks pretty good and my wife was wrong I could do it ,so there is that as well. 😉 

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19 minutes ago, prosopis said:

Shed roof is officially done and it looks pretty good. The real proof in the pudding will be when the monsoons hit. Then I will see if there is any leaks or if the wind will just tear it away. I doubt the wind will be an issue as I used real roofing nails and they had used staples. The staple use is probably why I lost so many shingles in the first place. Time will tell but right now it looks pretty good and my wife was wrong I could do it ,so there is that as well. 😉 

Own a hose?

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3 hours ago, Osaurus said:

Dug up 4 sprinklers and added a couple of risers, but 1 zone is still not working. Think I’m going to have all solenoids/valves/wiring/controller replaced. Current controller is a POS. 

Yeah, I've got a lot of sprinkler problems as well.  Two appear to have broken risers, two have no water coming out, and about half need adjustment of zone coverage and stream (basically a fire hydrant for several).  Tried adjusting for over and hour on two and couldn't figure it out and pretty sure i made it worse.

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40 minutes ago, rascal said:

Yeah, I've got a lot of sprinkler problems as well.  Two appear to have broken risers, two have no water coming out, and about half need adjustment of zone coverage and stream (basically a fire hydrant for several).  Tried adjusting for over and hour on two and couldn't figure it out and pretty sure i made it worse.

Do the sprinkler still have the nozzle inserts in them?

You adjust nozzle or coverage? You have hunter, rain bird or Toro sprinklers?

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Just ordered a sprayer system for the back of my lawn tractor.

Despite $100's a year spent on Scotts 4 step fertilizer and weed control, I'm slowly losing the battle with weeds in my lawn.

Every year,  more dandelions, crabgrass, clover, some viney strawberry looking things ... among other stuff.

The directions on the scotts bag of fertilizer / weed control say to "apply to wet lawn" so their fertilizer can stick to the leaf of the weed and kill it.

Problem is, even the water beads up and rolls off the weed leaf. Now the fertilizer just bounces off and falls to the ground as well.

Feeds the grass but as far as killing the weeds, waste of money.

The 16 gal sprayer will provide an even layer of "sticky" herbicide that won't harm the grass ... 

and the cost of the herbicide, sticky solution, and dye, will be much less than the bagged scotts plan that I've been buying for years.

I've done a little research on how to attach, chemicals to use, and how to apply, if anyone is interested, ask away.

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I’ve gone the opposite way with my lawn.  I’ve ditched the herbicides and overseeded with clover.  Slowly it is taking over and pushing the weeds and grass out. 
it is always green the white flowers keep the bees happy. 

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17 minutes ago, berndog said:

I’ve gone the opposite way with my lawn.  I’ve ditched the herbicides and overseeded with clover.  Slowly it is taking over and pushing the weeds and grass out. 
it is always green the white flowers keep the bees happy. 

Wow. That seems extreme. Can't say as I've ever hearing of anyone doing this. No luck with herbicides? Probably never have to mow that stuff.

Hows the clover hold up to the kids playing and backyard partes?  ... and the bare-foot factor? 

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32 minutes ago, berndog said:

I’ve gone the opposite way with my lawn.  I’ve ditched the herbicides and overseeded with clover.  Slowly it is taking over and pushing the weeds and grass out. 
it is always green the white flowers keep the bees happy. 

I always felt clover looked  nice, but i'm a lawn fanatic so it had to go.   

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1 hour ago, Bossman said:

Just ordered a sprayer system for the back of my lawn tractor.

Despite $100's a year spent on Scotts 4 step fertilizer and weed control, I'm slowly losing the battle with weeds in my lawn.

Every year,  more dandelions, crabgrass, clover, some viney strawberry looking things ... among other stuff.

The directions on the scotts bag of fertilizer / weed control say to "apply to wet lawn" so their fertilizer can stick to the leaf of the weed and kill it.

Problem is, even the water beads up and rolls off the weed leaf. Now the fertilizer just bounces off and falls to the ground as well.

Feeds the grass but as far as killing the weeds, waste of money.

The 16 gal sprayer will provide an even layer of "sticky" herbicide that won't harm the grass ... 

and the cost of the herbicide, sticky solution, and dye, will be much less than the bagged scotts plan that I've been buying for years.

I've done a little research on how to attach, chemicals to use, and how to apply, if anyone is interested, ask away.

Almost made the move to the pull behind a couple of years back.  I still might at some point, but for now its still scotts and the backpack sprayer.   Never, ever, ever again am I messing with the blue dye.  That stuff gets everywhere and is impossible to get off.

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1 hour ago, NutterButter said:

Almost made the move to the pull behind a couple of years back.  I still might at some point, but for now its still scotts and the backpack sprayer.   Never, ever, ever again am I messing with the blue dye.  That stuff gets everywhere and is impossible to get off.

I considered the pull behind but I didn't like the limitations when backing up.

Also, those looked to be wand style only.  Where I'm looking to do the entire yard and not just spot treating, the boom seems to be my best option.

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On 5/15/2020 at 9:25 AM, Uruk-Hai said:

:lol: We both know that's not happening.

It's not hard - stay level and plumb.

I'm assuming - but don't know for sure - that manufactured homes use standard door measurements. Maybe check with the home manufacturer?

Our manufactured home had a Non standard from door. Infuriating when trying to replace the jamb after the wind rips open the screen door.  

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1 hour ago, Bossman said:

I considered the pull behind but I didn't like the limitations when backing up.

Also, those looked to be wand style only.  Where I'm looking to do the entire yard and not just spot treating, the boom seems to be my best option.

You got a link?  Curious to know what you're talking about if its not a pull behind.

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4 hours ago, Bossman said:

Wow. That seems extreme. Can't say as I've ever hearing of anyone doing this. No luck with herbicides? Probably never have to mow that stuff.

Hows the clover hold up to the kids playing and backyard partes?  ... and the bare-foot factor? 


 I have grown to find the idea of the perfect lawn silly.  All the time and money spent spreading poison your family and pets play in seems perverse to me.  Eventually it ends up in our water and we poison ourselves again.  I know this isn’t a popular opinion and I’m not trying to change any minds but it’s where I’m at. 🤷‍♂️

The clover is great to walk on in bare feet and it spreads so it’s low maintenance and rarely needs cutting and is green year round. 

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6 hours ago, berndog said:

I’ve gone the opposite way with my lawn.  I’ve ditched the herbicides and overseeded with clover.  Slowly it is taking over and pushing the weeds and grass out. 
it is always green the white flowers keep the bees happy. 

If the latest attempt i did two weeks ago doesn't hold up, which it won't, I'll be doing this in September.  

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5 hours ago, Bossman said:

Wow. That seems extreme. Can't say as I've ever hearing of anyone doing this. No luck with herbicides? Probably never have to mow that stuff.

Hows the clover hold up to the kids playing and backyard partes?  ... and the bare-foot factor? 

It was popular before the 1950s when herbicide companies started their mass poisoning and convinced people it was a weed and had to go.  Before you couldn't buy seed without it.

Oh, and for you doomsday preppers, it is actually a legume so you can eat it.

Edited by rascal
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