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Home-owners...What are your current projects?


wilked

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15 hours ago, Punxsutawney Phil said:

My lawn looks great right now but I am starting to have nightmares about crab grass coming back over the summer.  I pay for a true green like company to spray, but their chems don't kill crab grass.  I'm starting to think I'd probably be better off paying 2 guys $25 for an hour to pick weeds.  

How about putting another round of pre-emergent down?

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On 5/14/2020 at 2:58 PM, Uruk-Hai said:

I see. You're going to have to rip out the old jambs, header, sill, and exterior trim. When you put the new unit in, make sure it's plumb/level - have long drywall screws on hand with a bunch of shims. You may also have to redo your keeper space in the jamb for the lock. Houses settle over time and throw doors out of whack (they also could have not been installed correctly in the first place). Patch whatever rot you have behind the stuff you take out. 

DO NOT use that damned expanding spray foam to fill the open spaces.  Take your time and press in some insulation. Caulk the outside, you should be good. 

Fun fact that came up on one of my projects.   Fire rated wall assemblies have not been tested with the expanding foam from a can to fill small gaps, they have only been tested with the larger 2 part spray insulation products where every bay is filled.  The architect got a call from the GC saying that the local inspector must have just been to a seminar, cause he was claiming that all the spray foam around the windows and doors was not fire rated, and therefore needed to be removed.   Architect dug into it some and the inspector is correct, there is no UL rating for using normal can foam "Great Stuff" to fill the small gaps. I have not heard back on what the solution was to keep the inspector happy. Obviously not why you don't like the product, just an interesting bit of info.

On 5/16/2020 at 10:43 AM, Sandeman said:

Thanks! Will drywall over the rafters so connection point won't be exposed. I'll probably bolt them on anyway as opposed to nail.

If you want to nail you can also notch out half the depth of the 4x4 at the angle of the rafter so the far sides end up flush, then you could nail/screw since you would only be going through 1-1/2" of material on each member.

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1 hour ago, UOFI_316 said:

If you want to nail you can also notch out half the depth of the 4x4 at the angle of the rafter so the far sides end up flush, then you could nail/screw since you would only be going through 1-1/2" of material on each member.

Clever! Any benefit to bolt vs. nail? Should I nail in two places on each end?

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On 5/18/2020 at 6:45 AM, Punxsutawney Phil said:

My lawn looks great right now but I am starting to have nightmares about crab grass coming back over the summer.  I pay for a true green like company to spray, but their chems don't kill crab grass.  I'm starting to think I'd probably be better off paying 2 guys $25 for an hour to pick weeds.  

 

43 minutes ago, Punxsutawney Phil said:

I have tried the pre-emergent.  Not only is it pricey, but I didn't notice much difference. 

I was at wits end with the weeds. Thought to myself, How does a golf course do it? They can't be buying bags and bags of Scotts granular.

Can NOT get that stuff to stick to weed leaf ... no matter the wetness of the lawn.

This vid goes into a "how to" using a sprayer. 

Weed Control via Sprayer

There is actually an agent that is added to the mix that causes the stickiness.

My lawn is so bad, I'm taking it to the next level with the lawn tractor mounted sprayer.

I can do the entire yard in a short time vs spot treating ... and it has the wand as well for hard to reach areas.

North Star 16 gal WITH boom

Paid just over $300 for the sprayer and chemicals. No more box store bagged granular for me.

Looking forward to my golf course quality yard..

 

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1 hour ago, Punxsutawney Phil said:

I have tried the pre-emergent.  Not only is it pricey, but I didn't notice much difference. 

I've mentioned this before a few times in the lawn care thread, but this stuff is the absolute best when it comes to killing crabgrass.   Its a postemergent so you can either just blanket the entire lawn if you have a lot of it or spot spray which is what I do.  I've stopped putting down pre-emerg and use this exclusively for crabgrass.  I've also had very good results with killing clover (sorry berndog :( ).   Buyer beware, make sure what you have is actually crabgrass.  I made the mistake of mistaking dallisgrass for crabgrass which drive will not kill.

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2 hours ago, NutterButter said:

I've mentioned this before a few times in the lawn care thread, but this stuff is the absolute best when it comes to killing crabgrass.   Its a postemergent so you can either just blanket the entire lawn if you have a lot of it or spot spray which is what I do.  I've stopped putting down pre-emerg and use this exclusively for crabgrass.  I've also had very good results with killing clover (sorry berndog :( ).   Buyer beware, make sure what you have is actually crabgrass.  I made the mistake of mistaking dallisgrass for crabgrass which drive will not kill.

Whoa that looks legit!  I have heard that the truegreen companies don't spray for crab grass.

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5 minutes ago, Punxsutawney Phil said:

Whoa that looks legit!  I have heard that the truegreen companies don't spray for crab grass.

Best herbicide I've used and I've used a lot.  You unfortunately have to buy a lot but you'll have it for years.   Stuff is great b/c it kills in a few days so even if you miss some, you can just do another round of spot spraying a week later.   Another weed that might be misidentified as crabgrass (which drive doesn't kill) is goosegrass so just keep that in mind.   

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14 hours ago, Punxsutawney Phil said:

I have tried the pre-emergent.  Not only is it pricey, but I didn't notice much difference. 

I'm just talking about Scotts with Halts.  $60 or so for a large bag.  Works wonders.

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On 5/15/2015 at 6:43 AM, NutterButter said:

Building a shed is a really fun project if you're in to that sort of the thing. You can really take your time with it unlike interior projects which cause much more of a disruption.

I'd like to build a dual use shed / bar for the backyard.  Load it up with the outdoor furniture and lawn equipment in the winter and then bring all that stuff out and convert into a bar / entertainment area in the summer.  My kids hit 14 and 12 and their swingset has fallen into disrepair so I started demo today.  I had put it up in a nice back corner of our yard that I had leveled and planted some trees around it that have grown for some nice shade.  I'd like to use that space for the shed / bar and an outdoor entertainment area.  Thinking of a shed design but one or two sides can open up into a bar top and seating.  Can set up a picnic table or two or put some posts in the ground for a long hightop and benches. My inspiration is the Tap Shack at Coastal Cravings in OBX but smaller.  (Front Pic)

In the initial planning stages here but do you guys know of any place that would have designs like this that I could check out or somewhere with plans?  I've seen a few shed plans through Family Handyman, etc but thinking there must be better options out there.

TIA!

Oh yeah, also taking a stab at doing my own cabinet work for our master closet.  Those custom cabinet places are crazy expensive.  Got a table saw and a miter saw for Christmas and finally opened them up.

Edited by Lehigh98
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Has anyone ever built a bird feeder?  Joe had posted a link to a squirrel proof feeder pole, and they are like $150 on Amazon.  I'm thinking I could make something better for a fraction of the price.  I'm thinking a piece of metal conduit with a feeder mounted on top.  I currently have a hanging one and it makes the pole sag when it's full, and the squirrels can empty it in a day.  I also want to incorporate a tray to catch the falling seed.  I'm thinking that I could put an outer sleeve of about a foot of pvc to create a baffle.  Drill a pin hole through the conduit, then attach the bigger pvc with a rubber band or something to make it hang kind of loose. 

Or maybe go with a pvc 4x4 and make a seed catching tray big enough to prevent squirrels from climbing around.  They may have a hard time  climbing the PVC anyways.

Edited by Punxsutawney Phil
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22 hours ago, NutterButter said:

I've mentioned this before a few times in the lawn care thread, but this stuff is the absolute best when it comes to killing crabgrass.   Its a postemergent so you can either just blanket the entire lawn if you have a lot of it or spot spray which is what I do.  I've stopped putting down pre-emerg and use this exclusively for crabgrass.  I've also had very good results with killing clover (sorry berndog :( ).   Buyer beware, make sure what you have is actually crabgrass.  I made the mistake of mistaking dallisgrass for crabgrass which drive will not kill.

wait, ... there's a lawn care thread?

I suppose this started with me fashioning a sprayer system to the back of my lawn tractor project.

 

eta: I love how the handle on that bottle just hovers in space. Pretty cool trick.

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1 hour ago, Bossman said:

wait, ... there's a lawn care thread?

I suppose this started with me fashioning a sprayer system to the back of my lawn tractor project.

 

eta: I love how the handle on that bottle just hovers in space. Pretty cool trick.

I want to see what you come up with.  I've got a Pro John Deere Z-Turn and I've been wanting to mount a sprayer on the back for years.  I've just never found an option that I can DIY or that justifies the price.  I wish I could just find a big "cupholder" that would mount a 3-5gallon sprayer.

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2 hours ago, Fat Nick said:

I want to see what you come up with.  I've got a Pro John Deere Z-Turn and I've been wanting to mount a sprayer on the back for years.  I've just never found an option that I can DIY or that justifies the price.  I wish I could just find a big "cupholder" that would mount a 3-5gallon sprayer.

Yeah, I'm curious as to how I'm gonna do it as well ... Lol.

Also questioning if I am going to need ballast on the front.

16 gal of liquid, plus the weight of the sprayer, I might be riding wheelies across my yard.

I'll update when I get it in a week two

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11 hours ago, Lehigh98 said:

I'd like to build a dual use shed / bar for the backyard.  Load it up with the outdoor furniture and lawn equipment in the winter and then bring all that stuff out and convert into a bar / entertainment area in the summer.  My kids hit 14 and 12 and their swingset has fallen into disrepair so I started demo today.  I had put it up in a nice back corner of our yard that I had leveled and planted some trees around it that have grown for some nice shade.  I'd like to use that space for the shed / bar and an outdoor entertainment area.  Thinking of a shed design but one or two sides can open up into a bar top and seating.  Can set up a picnic table or two or put some posts in the ground for a long hightop and benches. My inspiration is the Tap Shack at Coastal Cravings in OBX but smaller.  (Front Pic)

In the initial planning stages here but do you guys know of any place that would have designs like this that I could check out or somewhere with plans?  I've seen a few shed plans through Family Handyman, etc but thinking there must be better options out there.

TIA!

Oh yeah, also taking a stab at doing my own cabinet work for our master closet.  Those custom cabinet places are crazy expensive.  Got a table saw and a miter saw for Christmas and finally opened them up.

Are you going to send power to it? Water? I think I’d at least do power, and if you’re going to dog the trench for power I’d consider adding water in there. 
 

the idea is good. Not sure where you live but in New England the first design principle of shed building is withstanding the elements. All those extra openings are entry points for elements and critters. Design those well

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35 minutes ago, Bossman said:

Yeah, I'm curious as to how I'm gonna do it as well ... Lol.

Also questioning if I am going to need ballast on the front.

16 gal of liquid, plus the weight of the sprayer, I might be riding wheelies across my yard.

I'll update when I get it in a week two

Yeah - when I was first looking, I was trying to use my neighbor's ATV mount tank as a model and envisioned it mounting to the anti-roll bar on the back, above the engine of my Z-turn...Weight was 100% the issue.  I noticed that every single after-market was mounted out off the front castor wheels.  I think the weight distribution is the reason why.  I can already pop a wheelie if I put my mower in full reverse and slam it to full-forward.  With 120lbs+ of liquid also in the back, and mounted higher than the engine, I think it's a major concern. 

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On 5/19/2020 at 10:20 AM, Punxsutawney Phil said:

Whoa that looks legit!  I have heard that the truegreen companies don't spray for crab grass.

Not correct. I had been with TruGreen for about 15 years before stopping this year due to money worries with Covid. 

I now have a good amount of crabgrass (and clover) where I had not had it for years. 

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On 5/20/2020 at 11:43 AM, wilked said:

Are you going to send power to it? Water? I think I’d at least do power, and if you’re going to dog the trench for power I’d consider adding water in there. 
 

the idea is good. Not sure where you live but in New England the first design principle of shed building is withstanding the elements. All those extra openings are entry points for elements and critters. Design those well

Definitely power, probably water.  I'm in PA.  Good point about the openings.  I'm not as concerned about the door design but the swing up openings for the bar area will probably be interesting.  Need something easy enough to move and open and get out of the way but heavy enough for wind / rain / critters.

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Finally painted the ceiling in my master bedroom today. 2 coats and 1.5 gallons on 14 feet high ceilings. Replaced 4 smoke detectors (old ones were nasty beige color and were all yellowed) and 1 light fixture. This light looks pretty good imo. 
 

ETA: Had irrigation guy come out and replace all 4 valves and fixed my bad zone. He’s giving me a pretty sweet commercial grade controller with like 16 zones and optional WiFi (which I’ll order). It’s some Toro Evolution controller that does lighting and water features like waterfalls. 

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On 5/20/2020 at 8:56 AM, Fat Nick said:

I want to see what you come up with.  I've got a Pro John Deere Z-Turn and I've been wanting to mount a sprayer on the back for years.  I've just never found an option that I can DIY or that justifies the price.  I wish I could just find a big "cupholder" that would mount a 3-5gallon sprayer.

 

On 5/20/2020 at 11:22 AM, Bossman said:

Yeah, I'm curious as to how I'm gonna do it as well ... Lol.

Also questioning if I am going to need ballast on the front.

16 gal of liquid, plus the weight of the sprayer, I might be riding wheelies across my yard.

I'll update when I get it in a week two

Directions say to "strap it to the cargo rack on the back of your ATV". So, not really designed for a lawn tractor. But I knew that going in.

On my John Deere lawn tractor, there are two arms that hold the rear bag in place;

Bag removed

The Sprayer frame sat perfectly on those two arms.

Sprayer in place

I bent two flat steel brackets at right angles and bolted thru existing holes in the sprayer frame ... and drilled a hole in each bag arm of the lawn tractor to attach the bracket with 1/4" bolts.

Not trusting those arms to carry the full weight of the sprayer and 16 gals of fluid, I fashioned a bracket out of some scrap that I had laying around, 

and attached to the farthest point of the sprayer frame, down at an angle to what looked like a tow hitch hole on the tractor. (red diagonal bracket in photo)

Finished Sprayer on Lawn Tractor

Seems pretty solid and the entire system can be removed with 4 bolts. So a 5 min job.

Also just ordered the mulching kit for the tractor so I won't be using the bag again until the leaves fall.

I gave it a whirl today. Mixed up the chemicals and made 6 gallons of eff u weeds cocktail. 

The sprayer worked as advertised and I felt like I was a crop duster. Went nice and slow to be sure I got a good coating on all those nasty weeds.

I went thru the 6 gal pretty quick just in the back yard.

Mixed up another 12 gal and got back at it. Front yard is a little hilly and the steering got a bit light in a couple of spots ... but no wheelies.

I may need some ballast on the front if I go the full 16 gal but jury is still out.

The wand came in handy too where the wife has flowers and around the deck where I didn't want any over spray.

An easy to reach lever on the pump cuts flow to the crop dusting boom when I need to use the wand.

Overall pleased with my purchase. Now just need to wait a couple weeks and see how much it helped with the weed situation. 

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I feel that some how I should be able to convert my non stop running sump (we have the only "full" depth basement on our block and the sump runs through the drought months) with a garden watering device, not sure the actual specifics though.  In my head I just split and add some pipe to the outlet of the  sump and run it over to the garden and into a pipe that is perforated that runs between the  plants.  Somehow I am sure I am missing something though. (this post made because my wife decided to replant the garden and stated that she would take care of it which we all know is a lie).

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7 hours ago, UOFI_316 said:

I feel that some how I should be able to convert my non stop running sump (we have the only "full" depth basement on our block and the sump runs through the drought months) with a garden watering device, not sure the actual specifics though.  In my head I just split and add some pipe to the outlet of the  sump and run it over to the garden and into a pipe that is perforated that runs between the  plants.  Somehow I am sure I am missing something though. (this post made because my wife decided to replant the garden and stated that she would take care of it which we all know is a lie).

Seems ok to me so long as the garden is not next to the foundation

 

general thoughts - add ball valves to each branch. You will need to play with valve positions to get the right amount of water to the garden

 

do you get below freezing? 
 

 

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On 5/14/2020 at 9:52 PM, bucksoh said:
On 5/14/2020 at 3:58 PM, Uruk-Hai said:

I see. You're going to have to rip out the old jambs, header, sill, and exterior trim. When you put the new unit in, make sure it's plumb/level - have long drywall screws on hand with a bunch of shims. You may also have to redo your keeper space in the jamb for the lock. Houses settle over time and throw doors out of whack (they also could have not been installed correctly in the first place). Patch whatever rot you have behind the stuff you take out. 

DO NOT use that damned expanding spray foam to fill the open spaces.  Take your time and press in some insulation. Caulk the outside, you should be good. 

Do you just not like spray foam and what is the reasoning behind not using spray foam.  I ask because I replaced the door in my Reno and used spray foam.  Thanks in advance.

I want to understand this too.  I see it used all the time and seems to be the preferred method.  That said, there's a process to it.  You can't spray it in and begin to enclose it immediately.  You need to let it expand for a period of time (an hour or so) and cut the excess away.  If you don't it can expand and screw things up.  Perhaps that's what he's talking about?

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3 hours ago, wilked said:

Seems ok to me so long as the garden is not next to the foundation

 

general thoughts - add ball valves to each branch. You will need to play with valve positions to get the right amount of water to the garden

 

do you get below freezing? 
 

 

Garden is along the side of the house, and yes we freeze.  Whatever I come up with I will construct in a way that I can remove the garden portion come fall.  My thinking is to somehow split the outlet from the sump so only a portion is directed to the garden so I don't end up over watering it.  

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1 hour ago, UOFI_316 said:

Garden is along the side of the house, and yes we freeze.  Whatever I come up with I will construct in a way that I can remove the garden portion come fall.  My thinking is to somehow split the outlet from the sump so only a portion is directed to the garden so I don't end up over watering it.  

I think a simple "Y" with ball valves at each outlet would work fine. Some portion goes up the storm drain system, and some gets diverted to water the garden.  I'm sure someone does this with a rain barrel system already.

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I’m just worried that the water is coming in via the foundation, and now you’re putting the water right back against the foundation. 
 

your sump outlet presumably is away from the house where it can drain off / be absorbed into the soil 

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I just cleaned my deck. I have a Trex so didn't want to power wash even though the new ones say you can.  I used hose, hot soapy water and a deck brush.

It's like I didn't even clean it.  Guess I'll just out the power washer.   The low tip doesn't really do anything.  I used the medium tip on my vinyl fence so hopefully that doesn't cause damage

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1 hour ago, belljr said:

I just cleaned my deck. I have a Trex so didn't want to power wash even though the new ones say you can.  I used hose, hot soapy water and a deck brush.

It's like I didn't even clean it.  Guess I'll just out the power washer.   The low tip doesn't really do anything.  I used the medium tip on my vinyl fence so hopefully that doesn't cause damage

My deck is Azek (same as Trex?) ... I've pressure washed with no issues.

I didn't even realize that it could do damage. Seems much harder than wood.

:shrug:

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Had to replace the insulation around on the AC line running to my compressor outside. We have only been in the house 6 months but damn, the sun/UV did a  number on whatever that cheap #### was that they used on the original install. There were a couple spots where the insulation was eaten through all the way to the copper. The rest of it just flaked off. 

It was a very easy job. Bought some air conditioner insulating foam at Home Depot and had the old stuff off and the new insulation replaced in less than 10 minutes. The new insulation had adhesive tabs that I just pulled off the stick the two edges together. I ran a strip of electrical tape along the seam as well for some extra sticky factor. 

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2 hours ago, belljr said:

What psi and "tip" do you use?

I use whatever my gas powered craftsman will give me. Mine does not have a dial for psi ... and I don't remember the tip.

I do remember the pollen was very stubborn and if I missed a spot, it was obvious when it dried.

 

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10 hours ago, The Z Machine said:

I think a simple "Y" with ball valves at each outlet would work fine. Some portion goes up the storm drain system, and some gets diverted to water the garden.  I'm sure someone does this with a rain barrel system already.

Do they make ball valves for the 1-1/2" pipe the sump outlets with? I have never looked for ones that large.

9 hours ago, wilked said:

I’m just worried that the water is coming in via the foundation, and now you’re putting the water right back against the foundation. 
 

your sump outlet presumably is away from the house where it can drain off / be absorbed into the soil 

I do not think the water that gets to the sump/drain tile is surface water.   There have been summers where we have been dry for weeks and the sump will still run a few times a day (pre garden with no grass watering or other sources of water around the house),  I think we have the only full depth basement on the block and my guess is there is an underground "stream" or the sump is just dipping into the water table.  The amount of water that I would be diverting to the garden would not be the entire outlet of the sump, and no more than in years past when I just used a timer to run a soaker hose inside the garden.

When we moved into this house I noticed the sump was running like every 20 minutes.  Turns out the ####### previous owners had the float set wrong, and had run over both ends of the cheap black plastic outside hose so it had fallen off and the sump was just recycling the same water constantly.   I buried a 4" perforated pipe with a slight downslope in the yard and currently have the sump dumping into that, put a 90 and a pop-up cap at the end so it drains to "daylight" and during storms the water can all get out.   There is a 2'-3' width of grass above the buried pipe that grows twice as fast as the rest of the yard.   That is what sparked my idea to run some of the water to the garden.

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10 hours ago, UOFI_316 said:

Do they make ball valves for the 1-1/2" pipe the sump outlets with? I have never looked for ones that large.

I do not think the water that gets to the sump/drain tile is surface water.   There have been summers where we have been dry for weeks and the sump will still run a few times a day (pre garden with no grass watering or other sources of water around the house),  I think we have the only full depth basement on the block and my guess is there is an underground "stream" or the sump is just dipping into the water table.  The amount of water that I would be diverting to the garden would not be the entire outlet of the sump, and no more than in years past when I just used a timer to run a soaker hose inside the garden.

When we moved into this house I noticed the sump was running like every 20 minutes.  Turns out the ####### previous owners had the float set wrong, and had run over both ends of the cheap black plastic outside hose so it had fallen off and the sump was just recycling the same water constantly.   I buried a 4" perforated pipe with a slight downslope in the yard and currently have the sump dumping into that, put a 90 and a pop-up cap at the end so it drains to "daylight" and during storms the water can all get out.   There is a 2'-3' width of grass above the buried pipe that grows twice as fast as the rest of the yard.   That is what sparked my idea to run some of the water to the garden.

yes, ball valves readily available at that size.  This PVC, black pipe, something else?

 

Your plan sounds good based on what you wrote.  

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Finally on to paint

Pic of 1/2bathhttps://i.imgur.com/n2NKqpl.jpg,

Dining room https://i.imgur.com/YOV9YlD.jpg

Full bathhttps://i.imgur.com/aCq1cex.jpg

Kitchenhttps://i.imgur.com/YBnf56v.jpg

Utility roomhttps://i.imgur.com/MwE3503.jpg

Walk in closethttps://i.imgur.com/boB5jb2.jpg

Bedroomhttps://i.imgur.com/9DtkGtH.jpg

Walk in closethttps://i.imgur.com/7y6Vo8g.jpg

Bad pic other bedroomhttps://i.imgur.com/jByMQFW.jpg

Family roomhttps://i.imgur.com/mDk4WLN.jpg,. Still a bunch of work to be done but it is coming.

Put in the upper cabinets by myself which was quite fun, lower should be much easier.

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On 5/25/2020 at 10:38 PM, Bossman said:

 

Directions say to "strap it to the cargo rack on the back of your ATV". So, not really designed for a lawn tractor. But I knew that going in.

On my John Deere lawn tractor, there are two arms that hold the rear bag in place;

Bag removed

The Sprayer frame sat perfectly on those two arms.

Sprayer in place

I bent two flat steel brackets at right angles and bolted thru existing holes in the sprayer frame ... and drilled a hole in each bag arm of the lawn tractor to attach the bracket with 1/4" bolts.

Not trusting those arms to carry the full weight of the sprayer and 16 gals of fluid, I fashioned a bracket out of some scrap that I had laying around, 

and attached to the farthest point of the sprayer frame, down at an angle to what looked like a tow hitch hole on the tractor. (red diagonal bracket in photo)

Finished Sprayer on Lawn Tractor

Seems pretty solid and the entire system can be removed with 4 bolts. So a 5 min job.

Also just ordered the mulching kit for the tractor so I won't be using the bag again until the leaves fall.

I gave it a whirl today. Mixed up the chemicals and made 6 gallons of eff u weeds cocktail. 

The sprayer worked as advertised and I felt like I was a crop duster. Went nice and slow to be sure I got a good coating on all those nasty weeds.

I went thru the 6 gal pretty quick just in the back yard.

Mixed up another 12 gal and got back at it. Front yard is a little hilly and the steering got a bit light in a couple of spots ... but no wheelies.

I may need some ballast on the front if I go the full 16 gal but jury is still out.

The wand came in handy too where the wife has flowers and around the deck where I didn't want any over spray.

An easy to reach lever on the pump cuts flow to the crop dusting boom when I need to use the wand.

Overall pleased with my purchase. Now just need to wait a couple weeks and see how much it helped with the weed situation. 

Is that one of those center-chute bagging Deere with the hard-shell bags?  I had one of those that I got from my parents for a hot minute when we first moved into our current house.  I LOVED that it didn't shoot grass everywhere and had two clean edges to cut with, right or left...but....I HATED how often that dang chute would clog with thick or damp grass.  It was also way too small for my 2.5 acres.  Took me 4 hours to cut the grass.  

Regardless - sweet modification.  Looks really good!

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Siblings and I inherited a small (900 sq ft) summer cottage after my mom passed nine years ago.  One sibling asked to be bought out right away, and so my wife and I have shared it with my two sisters and their spouses.  The property's been in the family for 97 years, and the current structure was built in 1964.  We've done some improvements over the last nine years, but with three family units trying to make decisions, and the two BILs being even cheaper Dutchmen than me, it's been slow going.  But my wife and I just bought out one of the siblings (an ugly affair discussed in a different thread about appraisals), and we're in the process of buying out the other sibling.  So with free reign, now, we had a productive weekend.  We went up to the cottage (near Rockford, MI) for a long weekend with wife's sister and her husband.  That BIL is very handy and has all the tools, so we sledgehammered out most of a 4' x 4' back stoop and built a new, larger stoop using wolmanized wood.  Since we were buying supplies anyway, we also replaced all the deck boards on the front 10' x 12' front porch as well as the rotting railings.  BIL also brought his pressure washer and gave a much needed washing to all the vinyl siding.  Through all this, my wife and SIL did a lot of cleanup inside and out.  We also initiated a quote to upgrade the electrical system so we can use a portable A/C unit to cool the bedrooms before bedtime.  Our new money pit. :headbang:

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9 hours ago, Fat Nick said:

Is that one of those center-chute bagging Deere with the hard-shell bags?  I had one of those that I got from my parents for a hot minute when we first moved into our current house.  I LOVED that it didn't shoot grass everywhere and had two clean edges to cut with, right or left...but....I HATED how often that dang chute would clog with thick or damp grass.  It was also way too small for my 2.5 acres.  Took me 4 hours to cut the grass.  

Regardless - sweet modification.  Looks really good!

Yup.

I also like the fact that, without the side chute, I can cut close to trees or any structure from either side of the mower.

I found that the grass has to be completely dry or the center chute plugs up very easy. I've ordered the mulching kit which plugs the chute now anyway.

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8 hours ago, rascal said:

Anyone ever convert the area under a staircase into a storage area?  We have a two layer staircase, and thinking about making a small doorway to utilize that space.

I did this in my previous house.  Only it was a combo "storage" and "fort" for the kids.

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11 hours ago, tri-man 47 said:

Siblings and I inherited a small (900 sq ft) summer cottage after my mom passed nine years ago.  One sibling asked to be bought out right away, and so my wife and I have shared it with my two sisters and their spouses.  The property's been in the family for 97 years, and the current structure was built in 1964.  We've done some improvements over the last nine years, but with three family units trying to make decisions, and the two BILs being even cheaper Dutchmen than me, it's been slow going.  But my wife and I just bought out one of the siblings (an ugly affair discussed in a different thread about appraisals), and we're in the process of buying out the other sibling.  So with free reign, now, we had a productive weekend.  We went up to the cottage (near Rockford, MI) for a long weekend with wife's sister and her husband.  That BIL is very handy and has all the tools, so we sledgehammered out most of a 4' x 4' back stoop and built a new, larger stoop using wolmanized wood.  Since we were buying supplies anyway, we also replaced all the deck boards on the front 10' x 12' front porch as well as the rotting railings.  BIL also brought his pressure washer and gave a much needed washing to all the vinyl siding.  Through all this, my wife and SIL did a lot of cleanup inside and out.  We also initiated a quote to upgrade the electrical system so we can use a portable A/C unit to cool the bedrooms before bedtime.  Our new money pit. :headbang:

I remember the original thread. So glad you got it worked out as best as it could be. I hate when #### like this ruptures families and friends.

Anyway, post some pics of the improvements when you can!

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