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Home-owners...What are your current projects?


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2 hours ago, wilked said:
2 hours ago, FBG26 said:

Old siding coming down this week, new siding going up next week. Been looking forward to this since we bought the house a few years ago. So excited!

What types? 

Old siding was Masonite lapboard with board and batten in the gables. Replacing with Hardie lapboard and shakes in the gables.  If the old siding had been taken care of, we would've just painted a different color. But it was in rough shape and the woodpeckers left lots of poorly patched holes, so it's a full replacement and new color. Will post before and after pics when it's done. 

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Last weekend's refinishing project.  Before After

I moved into my house about a year and a half ago and was grilling in the dirt. My wife and I built the deck a year ago and added the railings and detail work over those next few months. Last month I

Just finished off our master bathroom. Small room - about 5’ x 12’ or so. Here’s a video of the final product I did all the work except the shower door - I’m too old to carry those large gla

22 hours ago, wilked said:

Do you have a non contact voltage tester? If yes, proceed. If not, stop and buy one. Learn how to use it (watch a YouTube or two)

 

use that to ID the circuit it is on. Turn off the circuit once you ID’d it. See what else is on the circuit (either by tracing the wire back or by trial / error once the circuit is off, checking outlets and lights)

 

is anything on that circuit critical for the next couple of weeks while you wait for the electrician? Can you get by with a couple extension cords on the meantime? If so do that and keep the circuit off. If not, take a couple photos and post here 

Thanks for the response Wilked. Always appreciate your input. I do not have a non-contact voltage tester. I can turn off the fuse for this circuit (old school glass fuse that I'll unscrew), but the circuit also powers our master bathroom and the ceiling light in my son's room. Suppose we could use extension cords for all that, but my wife might divorce me in the process.

Here are pics.

Run goes to ligh tbulb

Run from center of room that goes to light bulb

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9 hours ago, DEADHEAD said:

Thanks for the response Wilked. Always appreciate your input. I do not have a non-contact voltage tester. I can turn off the fuse for this circuit (old school glass fuse that I'll unscrew), but the circuit also powers our master bathroom and the ceiling light in my son's room. Suppose we could use extension cords for all that, but my wife might divorce me in the process.

Here are pics.

Run goes to ligh tbulb

Run from center of room that goes to light bulb

Don’t take offense, but if you don’t own a NCVT you prob don’t have any business playing with wires. 
 

if I have hit right, you are modifying roof and finishing the attic? And you are doing roof work before the electrician does his/her stuff?

 

I would get your electrician in ahead of the roofers to do some preliminary work. Best to get the same guy as who will do the rest of the job, so he can kind of plan out everything. Insist they remove all visible knob and tube and re run w Romex (he will prob insist as well). I wouldn’t go crazy removing knob and tube on interior walls / ceilings, but generally you want it removed on exterior so it doesn’t contact insulation. 
 

im pretty handy w electric and this is a job I wouldn’t tackle likely. You need a pro here. 
 

or you kill the circuit and cut the lines, the proverbial burning platform approach. After that there’s no turning back tho... 

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Last point - are you sure it’s live? That’s where you need the LCVT (by the way they are only $10). 
 

I ask as when electricians upgrade from knob and tube they will often abandon those old kno and tube runs rather than pull it all out. I have a bunch of dead k&t in my house. 

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On 9/18/2020 at 10:03 AM, DEADHEAD said:

So I'll document the process and include pictures in the months ahead. Here's some detail. A key question for you would be, can you put a stairwell somewhere?

We have attic space - two rooms totaling about 440 square feet - accessible by a stairwell from a second floor. We want to remodel the space and add it to the square footage of our home. At about $1,000/square foot where we live, the math makes sense even though our property value, and therefore our property tax, will increase. I think our project will be $75k, and I think we will add about $250k in value (not all of the 400sf will be countable due to ceiling height).

  • The stairwell does not meet current codes as it's too narrow and the treads are too short. Not good for firefighter access. That said, our house was built in 1906 and the City has agreed to grandfather us in as long as we remodel the attic to code. 
  • As for work done thus far, the small room was lathe and plaster. I tore all that down to the studs. The large room was redwood siding. I tore all that down too. It had charm, but was ragged. So both rooms are down to the studs.
  • I had a 75amp subpanel run to the small room to provide electricity for the floor and likely much of the floor below. i need to swap out the current knob and tube with current electrical. 
  • I am putting on a new roof because the current one is the third layer and it's been there since 1982. It's failing in spots so it's time. 
  • The attic gets hot, so when we're done with the roofing, we will spray-foam insulate. Pricey, but you don't have to worry about condensation and the R value is real good. Will last as long as the roof lasts.
  • We're putting in the roof windows and skylights in part for air circulation (there isn't much up there now), natural light and for ingress/egress, another code requirement. People have to be able to get out, firefighters have to be able to come in. We also have some kickass views of the Bay Area up there. 
  • We plan to drywall both rooms. And we will carpet the stairwell and the large room. This will probably be my room for a few days until the kids discover it, then I probably won't be allowed in (kids are 9 and 7...why am I doing this?). Think rec room. The smaller room will have a hardwood floor and exercise mats, our Peloton, etc. Think exercise, yoga.
  • Working with the City slows everything down immensely, but we're a small community and part of the bargain in living here is signing up for all that stuff. In the end, it works because there's little to no blight here. 

I'll keep posting. You can learn from my mistakes!

Repost for @wilked

Actually, I do have a non-contact voltage tester, or at least a "pen" that tells me if a wire is hot or not. But these are hot for sure. I use that light bulb.

Yes, we are finishing the attic and one of the roof windows is going exactly where those wires are. We are rewiring the entire attic space, so we plan to abandon what's there in K&T. I'll probably cut it out. There is only one receptacle but we need about a dozen, we are putting in 4" cans for lights, and maybe a couple sconces. Need some electrical for the TV on one wall, etc.

But, what I need now is to clear this line so the guys can install the roof window and that job starts next Thursday. I'm trying to get an electrician here without much luck.

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On 11/23/2020 at 1:26 PM, shuke said:

Time to replace my sump pump.  We've probably gone through 3 in the 15 years we've lived here.  I've never done it myself.  We currently have this model and it has held up better than the previous ones.  I would think swapping out the same model shouldn't be too difficult but I am extremely nervous about it.  If something goes wrong and this takes more than a day our basement will have water coming up through the floor.  

Replace check valve too.  You shouldn't need to cut things out.  Just unclamp or unscrew the pipe going into the sump pump.  Also, you may not need to replace the battery back up portion, so see if you can find just the main pump part.  

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1 hour ago, wilked said:

Don’t take offense, but if you don’t own a NCVT you prob don’t have any business playing with wires. 
 

if I have hit right, you are modifying roof and finishing the attic? And you are doing roof work before the electrician does his/her stuff?

 

I would get your electrician in ahead of the roofers to do some preliminary work. Best to get the same guy as who will do the rest of the job, so he can kind of plan out everything. Insist they remove all visible knob and tube and re run w Romex (he will prob insist as well). I wouldn’t go crazy removing knob and tube on interior walls / ceilings, but generally you want it removed on exterior so it doesn’t contact insulation. 
 

im pretty handy w electric and this is a job I wouldn’t tackle likely. You need a pro here. 
 

or you kill the circuit and cut the lines, the proverbial burning platform approach. After that there’s no turning back tho... 

I don't know anything about K&T since I've never encountered it before, but if this was Romex I'd just disconnect that wire from whatever the last outlet I use is. In other words, if it went from circuit breaker to one outlet and then another outlet, just discount the wire between the first and second outlets so that wire and second outlets are dead. Maybe that's not possible with K&T. 

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1 hour ago, DEADHEAD said:

Repost for @wilked

Actually, I do have a non-contact voltage tester, or at least a "pen" that tells me if a wire is hot or not. But these are hot for sure. I use that light bulb.

Yes, we are finishing the attic and one of the roof windows is going exactly where those wires are. We are rewiring the entire attic space, so we plan to abandon what's there in K&T. I'll probably cut it out. There is only one receptacle but we need about a dozen, we are putting in 4" cans for lights, and maybe a couple sconces. Need some electrical for the TV on one wall, etc.

But, what I need now is to clear this line so the guys can install the roof window and that job starts next Thursday. I'm trying to get an electrician here without much luck.

I hear you. It’s a tough spot to be in. 
 

if it’s me, I kill the circuit, run a few extension cords, and get the electrician in when you can. It will be a little bit of a pain but not end of the world. As noted, if it was romex I’d advise to put a  couple JBs in and run around it, but with K&T I wouldn’t feel confident advising that or doing it. 

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If you do cut any wires you should add a sign at the panel stating that circuit XX has cut wires on the top level, and also label locally at the cut wires. Just to be sure there is complete communication with the trades 

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On 11/26/2020 at 11:23 AM, D-Day said:

Replace check valve too.  You shouldn't need to cut things out.  Just unclamp or unscrew the pipe going into the sump pump.  Also, you may not need to replace the battery back up portion, so see if you can find just the main pump part.  

I bought a main and backup pre-assembled combo.  

Why do I need to replace the check valve?

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16 minutes ago, shuke said:

I bought a main and backup pre-assembled combo.  

Why do I need to replace the check valve?

Check valves wear out after a time, and while you are replacing the sump pump, it should be pretty easy to replace it at this time.

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7 hours ago, shuke said:

I found a very slow leak at a copper-cpvc junction leading to one of my outdoor faucets.  What's the play here?  I assume I need to cut on both sides of the joint and replace.

Yes. I would replace with shark bite personally. Do you have a copper cutting tool? Just make the cuts square and de burr 

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Well... I bought one of those Flo by Moen whole house water shutoff things. Will need to sweat that in once it arrives. Unclear if I need one, but it was $200 off yesterday and I’m a sucker for deals and tech 

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8 hours ago, shuke said:

I found a very slow leak at a copper-cpvc junction leading to one of my outdoor faucets.  What's the play here?  I assume I need to cut on both sides of the joint and replace.

I have a leak in my outdoor faucet.  A drop about every 10-15 seconds.  Tightened the handle did not stop.   Took it up, greased it up good and did not stop.

Any ideas?

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3 hours ago, wilked said:

Yes. I would replace with shark bite personally. Do you have a copper cutting tool? Just make the cuts square and de burr 

This is what the joint looks like.  How do I ensure I cut at the right length?  In order to get a two-way connector in there I am going to have to separate the ends enough to get the connector in there.

I have a regular tubing cutter, I assume it works for copper but I've only ever used it on PVC.

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57 minutes ago, shuke said:

This is what the joint looks like.  How do I ensure I cut at the right length?  In order to get a two-way connector in there I am going to have to separate the ends enough to get the connector in there.

I have a regular tubing cutter, I assume it works for copper but I've only ever used it on PVC.

That looks like someone tried to use CPVC cement to connect copper to PVC.  No bueno. I think you need a compression or sharkbite style connection to join the two. Can you cut the copper further back to get away from the flare?  And the cement goes inside the pipe for future reference.

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9 hours ago, shuke said:

This is what the joint looks like.  How do I ensure I cut at the right length?  In order to get a two-way connector in there I am going to have to separate the ends enough to get the connector in there.

I have a regular tubing cutter, I assume it works for copper but I've only ever used it on PVC.

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.

3/4 in. Push-to-Connect Brass Coupling Fitting

https://www.homedepot.com/p/202270494

 

this is $8. Buy it. Measure and cut each side. 
 

does that line have play side to side? Can’t tell from the photo. If it does then you don’t need to be perfect. If it doesn’t you may need to be more strategic on the cut. You need to push the line into the sharkbite obviously to make the connection. 
 

as for your cutter, this is what I have. 

 

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.

#101 Tube Cutter 1/4 in. to 1-1/8 in.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/100075014

makes good clean cuts on copper. 
 


Edit to add - looks like a 3/4 line - verify!

Edited by wilked
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8 hours ago, Ron Swanson said:

That looks like someone tried to use CPVC cement to connect copper to PVC.  No bueno. I think you need a compression or sharkbite style connection to join the two. Can you cut the copper further back to get away from the flare?  And the cement goes inside the pipe for future reference.

Ya - fire that plumber 

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Wanted to redo the backyard into a Covid-induced oasis: took the old playset down (kids are now 11 and 16), remove wood chips in that half of the backyard, replace that dirt half, plus the 12’x16’ old rotting deck in the other half of the backyard, with a new deck. The new deck would basically be 13’x50’ long and all at ground level to step out onto from our den. We wanted to put a hot tub at one end as well, and already have the bbq and outdoor dining table area at the other end. 
 

Well, 3 contractors bid on the new deck and the lowest price was [ SF Bay Area pricing withheld to spare the weak of heart], and that was not including the hot tub.

so we took an alternate route where *I* would replace the existing, rotting deck myself (joists underneath all looked fine, so “just” tear out the old 2x6 deck boards and replace with new). We got a price to get pavers instead of wooden deck for the soon-to-be hot tub half of the back yard at 1/4 the price of the whole deck. So we went for it. Pay for pavers/hot tub half, and sweat equity on the other half. 
 

3 months later: refurbished hot tub fully operational, pavers installed, deck demoed and installed (and looks damn professional if I don’t say so myself), new door installed from hot tub area right into our playroom bathroom (GREAT on cold nights)....all for just under half of the deck-only contractor bids and we couldn’t be happier. 
 

the only damage was to my back after 6 out of 7 straight saturdays working kneeling or bent over to demo and install the deck. Having a nice relaxing thanksgiving weekend of laziness as my payback. 
 

but itching to get onto the NEXT project now ;) 

Edited by joey
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11 hours ago, Ron Swanson said:

That looks like someone tried to use CPVC cement to connect copper to PVC.  No bueno. I think you need a compression or sharkbite style connection to join the two. Can you cut the copper further back to get away from the flare?  And the cement goes inside the pipe for future reference.

Good point.  This was a new build 15 years ago.  How did this pass inspection?

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2 hours ago, wilked said:

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.

3/4 in. Push-to-Connect Brass Coupling Fitting

https://www.homedepot.com/p/202270494

 

this is $8. Buy it. Measure and cut each side. 
 

does that line have play side to side? Can’t tell from the photo. If it does then you don’t need to be perfect. If it doesn’t you may need to be more strategic on the cut. You need to push the line into the sharkbite obviously to make the connection. 
 

as for your cutter, this is what I have. 

 

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.

#101 Tube Cutter 1/4 in. to 1-1/8 in.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/100075014

makes good clean cuts on copper. 
 


Edit to add - looks like a 3/4 line - verify!

Just saw this but thanks.  Got a shark bit coupling, but since I had to cut the existing joint out, there wasn't enough to close the gap.  So I had to cut the CPVC back a little to add a coupling to get more to work with.

When I first turned the water back on, I ran a paper towel edge along the joints, and I swear I got a couple drops at the shark bite/CVPC joint.  But it has been fine since.

The only reason I noticed the leak in the first place was because this is the area of the basement our Christmas stuff is stored and I was getting the outdoor lights out.  This also led to me to realize our GFCI outlet was dead on the side of the house so I had to replace that today.  Also, it led me to see that my sump pump outlet was not aligned with the entry pipe going into the ground so I have to address that tomorrow.  Home ownership sure is neat.

 

 

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10 hours ago, joey said:

Wanted to redo the backyard into a Covid-induced oasis: took the old playset down (kids are now 11 and 16), remove wood chips in that half of the backyard, replace that dirt half, plus the 12’x16’ old rotting deck in the other half of the backyard, with a new deck. The new deck would basically be 13’x50’ long and all at ground level to step out onto from our den. We wanted to put a hot tub at one end as well, and already have the bbq and outdoor dining table area at the other end. 
 

Well, 3 contractors bid on the new deck and the lowest price was [ SF Bay Area pricing withheld to spare the weak of heart], and that was not including the hot tub.

so we took an alternate route where *I* would replace the existing, rotting deck myself (joists underneath all looked fine, so “just” tear out the old 2x6 deck boards and replace with new). We got a price to get pavers instead of wooden deck for the soon-to-be hot tub half of the back yard at 1/4 the price of the whole deck. So we went for it. Pay for pavers/hot tub half, and sweat equity on the other half. 
 

3 months later: refurbished hot tub fully operational, pavers installed, deck demoed and installed (and looks damn professional if I don’t say so myself), new door installed from hot tub area right into our playroom bathroom (GREAT on cold nights)....all for just under half of the deck-only contractor bids and we couldn’t be happier. 
 

the only damage was to my back after 6 out of 7 straight saturdays working kneeling or bent over to demo and install the deck. Having a nice relaxing thanksgiving weekend of laziness as my payback. 
 

but itching to get onto the NEXT project now ;) 

Pics?

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16 hours ago, joey said:

Wanted to redo the backyard into a Covid-induced oasis: took the old playset down (kids are now 11 and 16), remove wood chips in that half of the backyard, replace that dirt half, plus the 12’x16’ old rotting deck in the other half of the backyard, with a new deck. The new deck would basically be 13’x50’ long and all at ground level to step out onto from our den. We wanted to put a hot tub at one end as well, and already have the bbq and outdoor dining table area at the other end. 
 

Well, 3 contractors bid on the new deck and the lowest price was [ SF Bay Area pricing withheld to spare the weak of heart], and that was not including the hot tub.

so we took an alternate route where *I* would replace the existing, rotting deck myself (joists underneath all looked fine, so “just” tear out the old 2x6 deck boards and replace with new). We got a price to get pavers instead of wooden deck for the soon-to-be hot tub half of the back yard at 1/4 the price of the whole deck. So we went for it. Pay for pavers/hot tub half, and sweat equity on the other half. 
 

3 months later: refurbished hot tub fully operational, pavers installed, deck demoed and installed (and looks damn professional if I don’t say so myself), new door installed from hot tub area right into our playroom bathroom (GREAT on cold nights)....all for just under half of the deck-only contractor bids and we couldn’t be happier. 
 

the only damage was to my back after 6 out of 7 straight saturdays working kneeling or bent over to demo and install the deck. Having a nice relaxing thanksgiving weekend of laziness as my payback. 
 

but itching to get onto the NEXT project now ;) 

Sounds like you saved a small fortune, but sorry to hear about the back. No pain no gain!  Out of curiosity, when did the kids quit using the playground? Mine is about 9 and hasn't been interested in it for years.  I just keep it up for my neighbors kid.  I want to get rid of it and put in a shed.

Edited by Punxsutawney Phil
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1 hour ago, Punxsutawney Phil said:

Sounds like you saved a small fortune, but sorry to hear about the back. No pain no gain!  Out of curiosity, when did the kids quit using the playground? Mine is about 9 and hasn't been interested in it for years.  I just keep it up for my neighbors kid.  I want to get rid of it and put in a shed.

Yeah, our youngest stopped using the play structure at about 8 or 9 years old, but he does not like change or giving away anything, so "guilted" us into keeping it a little longer. When we had a friend mention that he was building a playhouse for his daughter from recycled parts, we offered the playset to him and kept it "in the family", so our youngest was fine with it. 
with a likely permanent work-from-home status for my job for 2 or 3 days a week from here on out, I think a work shed/music room is the next main project we’ll do (but I won’t be doing that myself :) )

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Anyone patched cement blocks in colder temps? I've experience flooding in a <> 4 ft subterrain exterior stair well that is fully surrounded by cement block. I removed the stairs and noticed they hid a 1/2" crack/gap in blocks at the joint perpendicular to the basement wall. Pretty sure that's the source of water entry during heavy rains and fast snow melts. I was looking at DryLock and it advises 50-90 temps for application. Also considered mortar calking as a temp fix- I plan to waterproof from the exterior next year.

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Got a contractor on the fence on helping us with a kitchen renovation. He and I have spoken and walked through the job. Estimating about $40k in appliances, flooring, tile, etc., leaving about $35k for labor. We'd really like this guy to do the job (he's done work for us before and did my friend's house and business kitchens). 

After initially being very interested, he's being non-committal. He seems a bit worried about finishing his current job and then wants to move on to a personal job at a second home. So, I'm thinking of offering him a $2,500 cash bonus for taking and completing the job between March 1 and April 30. 

Question for you all. Do people do this? Does it work? Is $2,500 reasonable? Too much? Too little? What else should I consider?

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3 hours ago, DEADHEAD said:

Got a contractor on the fence on helping us with a kitchen renovation. He and I have spoken and walked through the job. Estimating about $40k in appliances, flooring, tile, etc., leaving about $35k for labor. We'd really like this guy to do the job (he's done work for us before and did my friend's house and business kitchens). 

After initially being very interested, he's being non-committal. He seems a bit worried about finishing his current job and then wants to move on to a personal job at a second home. So, I'm thinking of offering him a $2,500 cash bonus for taking and completing the job between March 1 and April 30. 

Question for you all. Do people do this? Does it work? Is $2,500 reasonable? Too much? Too little? What else should I consider?

I would not be opposed to paying an on time bonus on a project like that but I would be very concerned to hire a contractor who doesn't seem committed to the job to begin with.  

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3 hours ago, wilked said:

40k for appliances, tile and flooring? You getting SubZero and Miele? 

Ballparking:

10k in appliances (range, hood, refrigerator, dishwasher, microwave)
15k for cabinets
5k for countertops
4k for hardwood floor
2k for lights
1k for cabinet hardware
3k for who knows what


 

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On 11/30/2020 at 12:46 AM, BigJim® said:

Anyone patched cement blocks in colder temps? I've experience flooding in a <> 4 ft subterrain exterior stair well that is fully surrounded by cement block. I removed the stairs and noticed they hid a 1/2" crack/gap in blocks at the joint perpendicular to the basement wall. Pretty sure that's the source of water entry during heavy rains and fast snow melts. I was looking at DryLock and it advises 50-90 temps for application. Also considered mortar calking as a temp fix- I plan to waterproof from the exterior next year.

Can you put a tarp over the top and run some space heaters to heat up the stair space for a while and then keep em going until the patch dries? Similar to how masons install brick during the winter with an enclosed space and continuous heaters going.

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33 minutes ago, UOFI_316 said:

Can you put a tarp over the top and run some space heaters to heat up the stair space for a while and then keep em going until the patch dries? Similar to how masons install brick during the winter with an enclosed space and continuous heaters going.

Thanks for the suggestion - definitely considered this although I was unclear if the specs are based on room temp or concrete surface temp. The well itself is only a 4x8 space. It has non-insulated composite wall planks/roof above block - so can probably warm the air even without a tarp. I'm not sure I could significantly increase the temp of the cement bricks (which have frozen ground behind them) even if I could get the temp above 50 in the structure itself. Certainly could not keep them above 50 for 48 hours after application as the specs suggest.

I was hoping possibly there is a surface patch that is more suited to applying as is. Really looking at this like a one season patch with more permanent fix from the wall exterior in the spring. I really don't need waterproof... some water entry is manageable. I plan to grab a 3/4-1 hp water activated float pump just in case, so I really only need to avoid more water than that can handle. Last time it was an issue I had non-stop flow and 16" of water in that space for 2 solid days, which had nowhere to go but into the house around the basement door. Also considering just calking the heck out of that door, but unsure if that accomplishes much if the well fills up to 4'.   

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COVID has led to such a chain of infrastructure improvements at our house.

Got the driveway repaved and expanded back in late September.  The kids are in heaven as they can ride bikes and such a lot easier in the bigger space.

Had the garage floors refinished with Polyurea/flake about a month ago, and added some padded protectors for the columns - looks brand new.  Almost feel bad parking cars on it.

Today the guys will finish up the re-do of our paver walkway...should hopefully cut back on the weeds we got on the old one.  

Meanwhile, I've been working my tail off building the lean-to off my Shed, and building tons of shelving and organization in it.  I just finished running electric in 1/2" RMC out to the shed for lights and such, as well as some Cat6 for another Ring Camera.  Hopefully I can get that all hooked up to the sub-panel this weekend.  

Thinking about having somebody come out to look at installing a pool, but I'm hearing a lot of places are over a year out in installs and I'm not sure I want to wait that long...

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's been a while since I updated with pictures - but we got the 2 rooms in the basements framed in and the dry wall is now up! The past few days we've had mudders come through and its starting to look pretty nice!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-kKR20KKY05JJDvLZUqVYac0pqfOyGrD/view?usp=sharing

I didnt include any  mudding pictures, but those arent really special anyway. After everything gets finished mudded/sanded this week, Painting will take place around THursday or so!

Will report back at that time! 

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I’m struggling with the right replacement windows to go with, our home has the colonial windows with the grids and debating how much I need to spend going to nicer/larger profile grids or something more affordable but not too cheap looking. Looking at Marvin and Andersen, anyone go with something else they liked?

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We moved into our new house over a year ago and have been sitting on some projects that needed to be completed in order to realize the vision that we had for it during the design process. We hired an interior decorator early on because despite liking what I see as finished products, my wife and I tend to struggle to actually design the spaces from scratch. Ultimately, we spent in inordinate amount of time on Houzz picking out pictures of rooms that we liked and the designer used those as inspiration for creating the whole house design that we are working to achieve. I'm pleased with the results and we are slowly (and expensively) getting the look that we want. 

We had the 9 mirrors sitting in the front foyer in their unopened boxes for close to a year. We bought the couch at an estate sale on Saturday morning and that was the catalyst for finally getting the mirrors installed. It's an $1900 Crate and Barrel sofa that we ended up paying $900 for. It has very little wear but will need a good cleaning. My wife did some spot cleaning on it and apparently it hides dirt well. I guess that's the purpose of getting an "oatmeal" color.

This is what we are trying to achieve for the room

Here is blank wall where we need to install the mirrors (opposite angle)

A few of the mirrors are up - it was after this that I decided to run to Home Depot and buy a laser level (cheap one, $29, from Ryobi that suctions to the wall - it worked fine). It's one thing to make sure that one row is level but since we were stacking the mirrors, it was important to ensure that they all were level to each other also

Installing the top row and the other brackets

Alright, it's coming together. Everything looks level from an eyeball perspective so that works for me (and luckily the wife)

Phase One is done. Now we just need a matching coffee table and rug.

We also need to get the vertical wall installed to separate the room a little more. 

Also need to figure out what we are going to put on the opposite wall. I'm thinking about a big piece of canvas art.

 

 

Edited by Senor Schmutzig
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45 minutes ago, Senor Schmutzig said:

We moved into our new house over a year ago and have been sitting on some projects that needed to be completed in order to realize the vision that we had for it during the design process. We hired an interior decorator early on because despite liking what I see as finished products, my wife and I tend to struggle to actually design the spaces from scratch. Ultimately, we spent in inordinate amount of time on Houzz picking out pictures of rooms that we liked and the designer used those as inspiration for creating the whole house design that we are working to achieve. I'm pleased with the results and we are slowly (and expensively) getting the look that we want. 

We had the 9 mirrors sitting in the front foyer in their unopened boxes for close to a year. We bought the couch at an estate sale on Saturday morning and that was the catalyst for finally getting the mirrors installed. It's an $1900 Crate and Barrel sofa that we ended up paying $900 for. It has very little wear but will need a good cleaning. My wife did some spot cleaning on it and apparently it hides dirt well. I guess that's the purpose of getting an "oatmeal" color.

This is what we are trying to achieve for the room

Here is blank wall where we need to install the mirrors (opposite angle)

A few of the mirrors are up - it was after this that I decided to run to Home Depot and buy a laser level (cheap one, $29, from Ryobi that suctions to the wall - it worked fine). It's one thing to make sure that one row is level but since we were stacking the mirrors, it was important to ensure that they all were level to each other also

Installing the top row and the other brackets

Alright, it's coming together. Everything looks level from an eyeball perspective so that works for me (and luckily the wife)

Phase One is done. Now we just need a matching coffee table and rug.

We also need to get the vertical wall installed to separate the room a little more. 

 

 

Looks great man, nicely done!   Totally my :style:

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that looks great schmutzig you did a nice job on the opposite wall i suggest a giant artistic rendering of looking glasses 1972 eponymous album cover and perhaps a giant record highlighting song numero dos on side 1 trust me there will be no one cooler than you unless and until you happen to get to brew town and encounter a brohan of a certain bromigo persuasion take that to the bank brochacho  

Edited by SWC
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28 minutes ago, SWC said:

that looks great schmutzig you did a nice job on the opposite wall i suggest a giant artistic rendering of looking glasses 1972 eponymous album cover and perhaps a giant record highlighting song numero dos on side 1 trust me there will be no one cooler than you unless and until you happen to get to brew town and encounter a brohan of a certain bromigo persuasion take that to the bank brochacho  

Well that's definitely an option although I'm not sure it's the look I was after. And if it's not the look I was after, it definitely not the look my wife was going for.

Now it would be a statement piece, no doubt, for anyone walking through the front door, so there's that. 

How about a 10' tall version of this?

Let me bring it up and I'll let you know the response. 

 

 

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9 minutes ago, Senor Schmutzig said:
48 minutes ago, SWC said:

that looks great schmutzig you did a nice job on the opposite wall i suggest a giant artistic rendering of looking glasses 1972 eponymous album cover and perhaps a giant record highlighting song numero dos on side 1 trust me there will be no one cooler than you unless and until you happen to get to brew town and encounter a brohan of a certain bromigo persuasion take that to the bank brochacho  

Well that's definitely an option although I'm not sure it's the look I was after. And if it's not the look I was after, it definitely not the look my wife was going for.

Now it would be a statement piece, no doubt, for anyone walking through the front door, so there's that. 

How about a 10' tall version of this?

Let me bring it up and I'll let you know the response. 

brohan that is the exact cover i was thinkin of take that to the bank bromigo

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So we put on a new roof in early December (took 3 weeks!). Now on to the attic remodel. There's a ton of debris, dust, broken plaster, and other crap in the joist bays. I spent much of yesterday cleaning them out with a shopvac. I like the cleaner look, and the electricians may appreciate it. We will also put in bat insulation in here (and spray foam in the rafters). Wondering if it's worth the work to clean it all out. Dirty job. Somebody tell me this is a good idea please. 

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Installed an LED mirror in my son's bathroom yesterday. Another project that I have been putting off. The bathroom wall consisted of tile-->drywall-->furring-->concrete block and I wasn't quite sure where the water pipes were behind the drywall. I eventually found an old video I took of the entire house before they put up the drywall and then estimated the measurements. 

After I finished, I realized that the  anchor I installed didn't even get all the way through the drywall so it was a moot point. Mirror is straight and the light works so yay me. 

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Put this in the I'll never understand my wife ever....

Had a leak ended up with a stain in family room. I told her I'll clean and paint it but wanted to try something first.  I've been doing a bleach water mixture spray and got most of the stain out. Unfortunately it's not going to come completely out.  So I say I'll get some kilz and paint over the area, maybe we won't even paint it. She's like get primer and paint in one. I say I have the paint from when we painted. She's then like we need to paint the whole downstairs!!! I then say why don't we just try the area first. And she's like then will have a white square.

I finally snapped a white square on a white ceiling. It's going to be less noticeable then the big brown spot if we don't do anything!!!

Now she's pissed, lol  if the white square is terrible, we can freaking paint the downstairs later.... I don't understand how this is so hard to comprehend

I'll just paint it one day when's she's out she'll never notice

 

Edited by belljr
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Installed a new sump pump and backup pump with battery backup today.  
This unit is awesome.  It connects to the WiFi so now I have an app that always shows me status of the pump, if the power goes out, if the battery starts going bad, etc.  

For additional peace of mind also installed a see-through check valve.  

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2 hours ago, shuke said:

Installed a new sump pump and backup pump with battery backup today.  
This unit is awesome.  It connects to the WiFi so now I have an app that always shows me status of the pump, if the power goes out, if the battery starts going bad, etc.  

For additional peace of mind also installed a see-through check valve.  

Can't tell from the pics.  If the backup has its own floats, check the preset levels.  Years ago I installed a sump with a backup and they each had backup floats.  The factory setting was actually main float, backup float, main backup, backup backup.  So when the main float got stuck it was actually triggering the backup pump.  It took until the low battery warning was going off that I realized for half the year I was really running the backup off the battery and not the main.  Pulled the thing out and looked at the levels of the different floats and figured it out.

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1 hour ago, UOFI_316 said:

Can't tell from the pics.  If the backup has its own floats, check the preset levels.  Years ago I installed a sump with a backup and they each had backup floats.  The factory setting was actually main float, backup float, main backup, backup backup.  So when the main float got stuck it was actually triggering the backup pump.  It took until the low battery warning was going off that I realized for half the year I was really running the backup off the battery and not the main.  Pulled the thing out and looked at the levels of the different floats and figured it out.

I have three floats.  Main float, backup float, and high water warning float.  

I'm not really following what you are saying, but I tested today and everything seems to be working correctly.

 

 

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On 11/29/2020 at 1:13 PM, joey said:

Hopefully this link works. Never used Google Photos before. Should be 2 amazingly average looking pics ;)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/i9AGdaJdD9hoeNs66

 

I let the back rest up for a few weeks and then finished up the backyard project, extending the deck to go over the ugly brick/cement patio where the BBQ sits. I laid down this new section of deck 90 degrees from the other main section of deck to create an obvious, visual difference between the 2 sections of deck since there is a small 2" height difference between the two areas. Hoping this will stop anyone from tripping when they’re out there, not that it’s a high traffic area like the front yard/patio/house entrance is. Added 2 more pics to that google drive linked above. 

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20 hours ago, shuke said:

I have three floats.  Main float, backup float, and high water warning float.  

I'm not really following what you are saying, but I tested today and everything seems to be working correctly.

 

 

The sump I bought has a backup pump.  Each pump had a main float and a backup pump, so I have 4 total floats.   The main float #1 got jammed so it did not move, they way the floats came pre-installed was main #1, backup #1, main #2, backup #2.  It should have been main #1, main #2, backup #1, backup #2.  The way it came meant that once main #1 was jammed it was only running off the backup and eating the battery.  I have no idea if I bought a wonky version, or if all the pumps with backup floats come that way.  Figured it was worth it to mention.  If you still have questions feel free to PM Shuke.

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