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Home-owners...What are your current projects? (2 Viewers)

Thanks for sharing everyone. Great examples,  info and inspiration.

1st attempt to share an Amazon album. If it doesn't work or somehow allows you to buy stuff in my account. Please let me know.

Bathroom for master bedroom. Notable: Enlarging the room, shower, vanity. Adding linen cabinet, radiant floor heat. Upgrading to comfort height toilet with bidet seat.

About $10k for contractor & his materials. $1800 at cabinet place. $925 for quartz top. About $1650 for floor and shower tile. Toilet, sink, fixtrues etc., for shower/sink, about $1200. Total about $15-16k.

Status as of this morning;  framed. 

https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/MQzdeK6EQbW16qUM2wThvA.tOPJP6Gy11m_HFe8rxDxOR

 
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Michael Brown said:
We have a master bed/bath expansion project in the early stages. Bedroom is 15 x 12 and bathroom is small, about 4 x 7 (and half of it is the shower). We are blowing out the back wall and adding a big walk-in closet where half the current bedroom footprint is, and then basically re-adding the bedroom with the added space in the back. And with the additional space, we are also adding to the bathroom. Had an architect who quoted us $3400 for the drawings and planning throughout the process. Problem is, if I get a contractor quote that is stupid high we probably won't end up doing it at all.

We are in a bilevel, so there will need to be support beams and new roofing involved in the bedroom project (since it's on the upper level), plus adding a wall full of windows, moving plumbing and heating, A/C duct work, lots of stuff. It's sizable. But I don't want to be pot committed with the $3.4k only to end up saying Wow cool we paid thousands of dollars for drawings! Any suggestions? I already asked if she could give us very basic plans with no frills just so we could use that to get a contractor quote, and she came back with $2750 for the basic level stuff, ugh
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That sounds like a pretty sizable project.

You may just contact a contractor and have them come by and take a look. See if they can give you a ballpark idea on costs. Some remodelers are design/build type, where they handle the plans and everything in house.

I might start there before you drop that kind of dough on drawings. You at least need to know if it's affordable before you drop money on something you may never use.

 
The Z Machine said:
Bosch is the best for features, quality, and reliability.  Whirlpool is typically slightly more reliable for the same price point. Don't buy a Samsung. Not reliable.
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I replaced a functional but old and ugly Kitchenaid with a lower end Bosch. The Bosch works fine and is quieter but does require an added drying agent. I assume the more expensive ones don't need this.

 
The Z Machine said:
I'm getting estimates on a tiled shower re-do (because they didn't waterproof the bench seat 15 years ago and it's currently not leaking into my kitchen because of gorilla glue duct tape). Plus 2 other changes to the master bathroom including adding a door to separate out the toilet area from the rest since my wife isn't down with double occupancy in the bathroom. 

Anyway, I created a 3D CAD model of the space and a PowerPoint describing the 3 different areas to work on.  I'm not sure if this pissed off the contractors bidding, but I have 2 bids and they are fully 50% higher than i would like to pay for the work. Plus some contractors are now scheduling for like November...

Question: can i negotiate on price here or do they have so much demand that they won't budge?
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I'm guessing that, while you're probably just trying to communicate effectively, the bolded scared them into thinking you may be one who tends to micromanage.

 
great looking work chiefhan can you tell me what the flooring materials you used is is that a tile or is that vinyl plank thanks in advance brochacho take that to the bank 

 
brun said:
Thanks for sharing everyone. Great examples,  info and inspiration.

1st attempt to share an Amazon album. If it doesn't work or somehow allows you to buy stuff in my account. Please let me know.

Bathroom for master bedroom. Notable: Enlarging the room, shower, vanity. Adding linen cabinet, radiant floor heat. Upgrading to comfort height toilet with bidet seat.

About $10k for contractor & his materials. $1800 at cabinet place. $925 for quartz top. About $1650 for floor and shower tile. Toilet, sink, fixtrues etc., for shower/sink, about $1200. Total about $15-16k.

Status as of this morning;  framed. 

https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/MQzdeK6EQbW16qUM2wThvA.tOPJP6Gy11m_HFe8rxDxOR
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please tell me you are keeping that sweet orange countertop my parents old place had one just like it and frankly that countertop is a national treasure take that to the bank brohan 

 
as an aside i am pretty fed up with this thread having nothing but nice pictures of sweet rearend finished projects we need a thread called homeowners what are your halfassed projects and then it should be pictures of stuff with duct tape and way too many screws at all crazy intervals and no painting or finishing just total crap work that my fellow brohans would be a thread that the old swcer could get down with take that to the bank 

 
SWC said:
great looking work chiefhan can you tell me what the flooring materials you used is is that a tile or is that vinyl plank thanks in advance brochacho take that to the bank 
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It is a wood plank looking ceramic tile. They are 8" wide x 48" long - so pretty easy to lay.  I used the same one in my other bathroom when I remodeled it about 4 years ago.

Very durable and solid and looks awesome. 

 
ChiefD said:
It is a wood plank looking ceramic tile. They are 8" wide x 48" long - so pretty easy to lay.  I used the same one in my other bathroom when I remodeled it about 4 years ago.

Very durable and solid and looks awesome. 
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I love this stuff. We have the hand scraped looking tile in our office. Here's a pic. Pardon the dog fur. It's time to dust.

 
brun said:
I'm guessing that, while you're probably just trying to communicate effectively, the bolded scared them into thinking you may be one who tends to micromanage.
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Yeah, I feared that.  I'm in a related business to this work (power tools product development), so it's in my nature to ask questions and get more involved than typical.  I know most contractors don't like that, but I honestly can't help myself here.

 
SWC said:
please tell me you are keeping that sweet orange countertop my parents old place had one just like it and frankly that countertop is a national treasure take that to the bank brohan 
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😆😆😆

Sorry, went in the dumpster. House built in the 70's and I've been in it for over 25 years. Other than paint and swapping out the faucet. That room has never been touched. Sorry to say but the gold shag is gone too.

 
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brun said:
I replaced a functional but old and ugly Kitchenaid with a lower end Bosch. The Bosch works fine and is quieter but does require an added drying agent. I assume the more expensive ones don't need this.
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Nope, I think all Bosch dishwashers need the drying agent to work effectively.  It's how they do the drying without a heating element, and also why plastics don't get as dry as ceramics or metals.  In short, the water is carried away from the dishes to the interior stainless steel walls of the dishwasher.  Changing the surface chemistry of the water droplets helps that water release from the dishes / cutlery.

American designed dishwashers often still use a heating element to cook off some of the water and vent it.  Some models do a combo of cooking + wall condensation.

 
The Z Machine said:
Yeah, I feared that.  I'm in a related business to this work (power tools product development), so it's in my nature to ask questions and get more involved than typical.  I know most contractors don't like that, but I honestly can't help myself here.
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Makes sense. Especially if these contractors are relatively new to you.

 
i like to just scream at contractors for about 15 minutes on the phone about crazy stuff like conspiracy theories and aliens and then if they listen to me and dont hang up or even agree with me i never hire them because they are clearly fn nuts take that to the bank bromigos 

 
The Z Machine said:
Nope, I think all Bosch dishwashers need the drying agent to work effectively.  It's how they do the drying without a heating element, and also why plastics don't get as dry as ceramics or metals.  In short, the water is carried away from the dishes to the interior stainless steel walls of the dishwasher.  Changing the surface chemistry of the water droplets helps that water release from the dishes / cutlery.

American designed dishwashers often still use a heating element to cook off some of the water and vent it.  Some models do a combo of cooking + wall condensation.
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I think the drying agent is just required if washing plastics.  If only glass/metal it shouldn't be needed.

Emphasis on think

 
Getting a new composite deck.  Wanted to expand it, but the structural work was such a huge jump in pricing.

Also adding a new 500sqft stone patio with wall and all new plantings.  Will replace the windows on the back of the house as well.

Deck will be done this month, but the yard is pushed until June due to scheduling.

We also want to totally gut and redo the master bathroom.  Currently there is only one sink and we want to install a double-vanity.  This project will require all of the trades, adding some plumbing, new lighting locations, having to move the tub and tweak ductwork etc. So will get 2-3 bids and see what happens.

Kids' hall bath we want to update, but nothing needs added or moved.  Hoping that we can just paint the vanity and add new hardware and plumbing fixtures, along with new toilet, light fixtures, and paint.  Need to remove the tile and tub surround.  Not sure if need a new tub -- it is this ugly beige/almond and we want everything white, grey, and black in there now basically.

I am assuming the master will be like $60k-$70k, but I want to keep the kids' under $15k --- is this at all possible?

 
Leeroy Jenkins said:
Getting a new composite deck.  Wanted to expand it, but the structural work was such a huge jump in pricing.

Also adding a new 500sqft stone patio with wall and all new plantings.  Will replace the windows on the back of the house as well.

Deck will be done this month, but the yard is pushed until June due to scheduling.

We also want to totally gut and redo the master bathroom.  Currently there is only one sink and we want to install a double-vanity.  This project will require all of the trades, adding some plumbing, new lighting locations, having to move the tub and tweak ductwork etc. So will get 2-3 bids and see what happens.

Kids' hall bath we want to update, but nothing needs added or moved.  Hoping that we can just paint the vanity and add new hardware and plumbing fixtures, along with new toilet, light fixtures, and paint.  Need to remove the tile and tub surround.  Not sure if need a new tub -- it is this ugly beige/almond and we want everything white, grey, and black in there now basically.

I am assuming the master will be like $60k-$70k, but I want to keep the kids' under $15k --- is this at all possible?
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Don't know where you live but 60-70k seems high even for a nice big double vanity masterbath with high end finishes. That's closer to kitchen money with good appliances and you don't have those in a bathroom unless you've gone Japanese bidet-crazy.

 
Ron Swanson said:
Don't know where you live but 60-70k seems high even for a nice big double vanity masterbath with high end finishes. That's closer to kitchen money with good appliances and you don't have those in a bathroom unless you've gone Japanese bidet-crazy.
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Outside of philly. Just see some issues moving/adding plumbing and ductwork that could cause a higher price. Would love to do both bathrooms for $60k or less. 

 
ChiefD said:
Just finished off our master bathroom. Small room - about 5’ x 12’ or so.

Here’s a video of the final product

I did all the work except the shower door - I’m too old to carry those large glass panels around. I did all the sheetrock, lighting, wiring, tiling, plumbing, trim work, painting, etc.

Finished it off with this door, which created much needed space inside the bathroom. I couldn’t do a pocket door due to ductwork in the walls.

Got a bid to do this work for about 14k - I did it for around 4k.

Turned out really nice, and I’ve also painted the entire inside of the house as well. I’m pooped.
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Where did you get that door?  Wife wants to put a barn door for the utility room.

 
Just got done with full kitchen remodel including wall removal between kitchen and dining room. Did everything except the quartz countertops myself. In it for about 12 grand. 

Neighbor just did the same thing hiring everything out. Hes approaching 6 figures.  He did have a structural beam though and replaced the windows.  

Not sure I have enough before pics to do it justice. 

 
Just got my HOA approval for new sod. Going with Pro Vista St. Augustine. 8 pallets worth is pricey, but it's also the last sod I ever put down in my yard. The installers should be stopping by in the next few days to go all scorched earth on what little grass I have left out there. Should be fun.

 
tonydead said:
Just got done with full kitchen remodel including wall removal between kitchen and dining room. Did everything except the quartz countertops myself. In it for about 12 grand. 

Neighbor just did the same thing hiring everything out. Hes approaching 6 figures.  He did have a structural beam though and replaced the windows.  

Not sure I have enough before pics to do it justice. 
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We just did full kitchen remodel including wall removal (load bearing wall) and quartz countertops. Our total was $34k not counting appliances.

 
Osaurus said:
Just got my HOA approval for new sod. Going with Pro Vista St. Augustine. 8 pallets worth is pricey, but it's also the last sod I ever put down in my yard. The installers should be stopping by in the next few days to go all scorched earth on what little grass I have left out there. Should be fun.
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I gotta ask...why would an HOA need to approve replacing sod? Is there a reason I'm missing or is this a "because they can" type thing?

 
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Ron Swanson said:
I gotta ask...why would an HOA need to approve replacing sod? Is there a reason I'm missing or is this a "because they can" type thing?
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Any change to the exterior of the house or the surrounding property requires an approval. There is sort of a scale of requests that is somewhat unwritten, but any major modification needs to be approved. We were approved in 3 days and didn't expect any issues whatsoever.

As reference, there is a house down from me where the homeowners decided to build a fence to the slope of the pond we all share. The problem is that the easement set up for landscape folks is now bisected by the fence. Lol. I saw some folks out there with a measuring tape this morning. It's easily 10-15 feet inside the easement and will have to be modified assuming they got permission for it in the first place. If not, it's coming out all together.

 
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The faucet and shower in my kids' bathroom take forever to heat up.  Other than insulating the pipes better, putting in a small, instant HW heater, what else can be done to speed up the delivery of hot water.  It takes 1 minute or more to get hot water or off the tap in that bathroom. 

 
The Z Machine said:
The faucet and shower in my kids' bathroom take forever to heat up.  Other than insulating the pipes better, putting in a small, instant HW heater, what else can be done to speed up the delivery of hot water.  It takes 1 minute or more to get hot water or off the tap in that bathroom. 
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1 min doesn't seem bad to me

 
The Z Machine said:
The faucet and shower in my kids' bathroom take forever to heat up.  Other than insulating the pipes better, putting in a small, instant HW heater, what else can be done to speed up the delivery of hot water.  It takes 1 minute or more to get hot water or off the tap in that bathroom. 
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You can put a recirculating pump on your hot water line 

 
Remainder of “lawn” got sprayed today with industrial grass/weed killer. New sod going in Saturday morning. 

 
Two projects upcoming as I get some time off from work:

1. Build a dresser and shelves into our master closet where currently just a few shelves

2. Build a bookcase into the wall

 
My “meadow” is now gone and almost ready for new sod on Saturday. For reference, I replaced the front yard a while ago with Zoysia and it didn’t take. The side and back yards have always had Bahia which I loathe. This makes me very happy

 
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Osaurus said:
Just got my HOA approval for new sod. Going with Pro Vista St. Augustine. 8 pallets worth is pricey, but it's also the last sod I ever put down in my yard. The installers should be stopping by in the next few days to go all scorched earth on what little grass I have left out there. Should be fun.
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Would you giving me a ballpark figure on what it is costing you to have the old sod removed and replaced with the 8 pallets?

 
Any of these costs seem unreasonable? (I know impossible to tell without seeing):

Cut pavers, dig ground, and install 12x20" semi-inground pool= $4900

Purchase 12x20" pool, filter, ladder, required accessories= $4000

Remove gate and fence and then replace with new post in order to fit Bobcat in my backyard to dig= $450

Run new 20amp line from panel in garage under deck and pavers to backyard for filter. Includes conduit, grounding, and timer= $1600

Remove 2 small trees and 2 shrubs= $750

Total cost of pool install= $11,700

Killing my wife for making me do this and ruining my backyard= Priceless 

 
We have a circulating water heat/boiler system with copper pipes running below concrete between rooms. For the 2nd time in 3 years I have a pipe failure encased in concrete which resulted in a continuous leak up from below for god knows how long (under a bed, spread through the carpet pad without being apparent in carpet until it seeped to a trafficked area). Can't get to the encased location of the leak, so I needed to bypass through the wall. WTH did they use such an unrepairable design/unreliable piping originally?  

 
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BigJim® said:
We have a circulating water heat/boiler system with copper pipes running below concrete between rooms. For the 2nd time in 3 years I have a pipe failure encased in concrete which resulted in a continuous leak up from below for god knows how long (under a bed spread through the carpet pad without being apparent in carpet until it seeped to a trafficked area). Can't get to the encased location of the leak, so I needed to bypass through the wall. WTH did they use such an unrepairable design/unreliable piping originally?  
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Ugh, this is one of my fears in my house. Built in '64, so it's bound to happen eventually. How old is your house? 

 
FBG26 said:
Ugh, this is one of my fears in my house. Built in '64, so it's bound to happen eventually. How old is your house? 
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'63. We replaced carpet for the first time 10 years back and I wondered about dead end pipes coming up in various place. Now I know, obvious historic failures. I have one remaining encased run, 25' along a side basement wall that has a fire place and a doorway. No idea how I'll bypass that one when the time comes, but I better start my planning at this pace.  

 
Not sure if many folks here use MP rotator sprinkler heads, but I’ll throw this out. I am trying to figure out how much time it would take to get 3/4 of an inch of water per zone (3 zones). The arc is minimum on all heads and most are set to 180 degrees or less (some 90s at concrete corners). PSI in my system is easily 40. I am thinking it would take an hour or so. Any insight is greatly appreciated as my sod is being installed tomorrow morning and I want to have my schedule dialed in barring any environmental adjustments. 

 
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Osaurus said:
Not sure if many folks here use MP rotator sprinkler heads, but I’ll throw this out. I am trying to figure out how much time it would take to get 3/4 of an inch of water per zone (3 zones). The arc is minimum on all heads and most are set to 180 degrees or less (some 90s at concrete corners). PSI in my system is easily 40. I am thinking it would take an hour or so. Any insight is greatly appreciated as my sod is being installed tomorrow morning and I want to have my schedule dialed in barring any environmental adjustments. 
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Get an empty tuna fish can and just place it out in the yard and see how long it takes to fill up cuz that's about an inch My guess would be for a half inch it's going to be half an hour somewhere around there

 
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SWC said:
as an aside i am pretty fed up with this thread having nothing but nice pictures of sweet rearend finished projects we need a thread called homeowners what are your halfassed projects and then it should be pictures of stuff with duct tape and way too many screws at all crazy intervals and no painting or finishing just total crap work that my fellow brohans would be a thread that the old swcer could get down with take that to the bank 
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:goodposting:

I've been slowly working on redoing our detached garage. I got fed up with it being a dumping ground for junk.  Getting into duck hunting just put it over the top (any duck hunters in here will immediately understand why).

I'm the Atlanta Falcons of wood working.  I'm happy if I get 2 screws in straight.  

 
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belljr said:
Get an empty tuna fish can and just place it out in the yard and see how long it takes to fill up cuz that's about an inch My guess would be for a half inch it's going to be half an hour somewhere around there
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Update: About 45 minutes 

 
Inbuilt dresser project for master closet update #1:

The day's work progression and tools

Any advice on this:

Trying to decide if I can build it into the wall from the start, or if I need to build the "crate" on the ground, and stand it up and put it into the studs then. Little bit worried because the boards for the side, and the shelves, are HEAVY. It's finished melamine board.

LHS is going to be a series of 15 inch shelves/cubbies. RHS is a 60 inch dresser for two columns of 5 drawers, then there's one shelf across the top of the drawers, and one shelf above that for storage to the ceiling.

Everything I see appears to say build a crate on the ground, then attach it to the wall, then add your drawers. I'm just a bit worried that it's too heavy to get up there as high as it's going once i build it on the ground.

 
I need to redo our front stoop walk - going to do stone

Every place I call never returns calls and Ive heard getting stone is a pain.  Ive also heard no one wants to take small stone jobs right now cause all the big ones pile up lol

 
berndog said:
Looks great!  If you don’t mind, what’s a project like that cost?
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About $3,400 for 3,200 sq ft. It’s Pro Vista St. Augustine so it’s pricey, but was worth it imo . Evidently I’ve been watering it to much and introduced some mold resulting in browning. I thought it was just dry, but nope. Got a treatment today so it should be okay moving forward. I also dialed the watering down to about 40 minutes per zone.

 
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