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Building a custom house on land - Early planning phase - What do I need to know about capital gains? (1 Viewer)

Check on wildlife property tax exemptions in the area. 
This is something we utilized- but also was a huge pain. We basically got the pond subsidized as it was for wildlife, but it then had to be specific depth etc so it was difficult to maintain (and didn’t have a liner and other features that keep cattails and whatnot under control). Then they got bent out of shape because we built a driveway back there that “wasn’t set far enough away” and the guy inspecting wanted us to move the road. This was just sand/gravel to build something that would get a vehicle back, not the asphalt they have now. So we rented a bulldozer and scraped some low areas to collect water and made a new “wildlife pond” in a different area away from the driveway and then he had a problem because we started building on the property so in the end we just paid the county or state back because they were such a pain in the Burt.  They gave us like $5000 and basically expected an 80 acre wildlife refuge and we couldn’t do anything on the property. There are things available but it may not be worth the effort/savings.

 
1. Drainage- try to visit any prospective property in the spring of possible and see where the water is/goes. 
:goodposting:

Drainage is big. Ideally find a site that has a flat, somewhat elevated and clear of trees area to minimize the site work you'll have to do.

Solar orientation is next- nice to use passive solar to keep things comfortable and we'll lighted with southern exposure. Knowing prevailing wind direction is useful too, but not a primary.

 
You will need to know if the land is buildable that you are looking at and what zoning.  Certain zoning won't allow you to build a residential home on or may require "X" number of acres for a parcel if it's agricultural.  If there is no utilities you need to know if the land will "perc" for a septic system.  What is the water table like?  Do you need to drill 100' or 1000' for water?  Does that area require certain casing for the well to prevent contamination?  Things like this can change well price from $5k - $30k.  Do you want a constant pressure system for your water, now you have more expensive controllers and variable speed pumps for your well.  Will the DNR permit a driveway to go where you want?  Are there wetlands?  How long is the driveway gong to be?  This can be a huge expense.  What about heat if no natural gas?  Propane?  Certain areas this is expensive. Building is "hot" now, prices of lumber have skyrocketed in the last year to 2.  Contractors and subs are super busy, are they going to want to work with you on your single job vs steady work?  What permits are all required?  Need to create a relationship with the local building inspector.  

I can be a fun process but if you think you are going to do it cheap by doing it all yourself be prepared to be stressed out.  We purchased 10 acres of land.  Sat on it for 4-5 years, planning.  Planting trees and getting the driveway in.  We then built the house and then later a 2nd shop/garage.  Love being out here but no everything is "roses".  No high speed internet, have satelite that is unreliable.  No cable, again have satelite.  No natural gas, have propane.  Last couple years has been very reasonable but one season there was a shortage and price was outrageous and thankfully we were prepared but some people were not able to refill there supply and needed to find a new heat source.  We have a 900' long driveway, need a way to plow it in the winter so figure a tractor at $30-40k.  Bunch of little things you don't initially think of.  Good luck!

 
Also good point to consider- you’ll have to either run wire above ground to the house or run it underground. Assuming you run it underground put something in to mark it above ground (or with plantings) and run whatever wire you might think you will eventually need. Cable, internet, etc if available will have to connect to main service at the road. 
 

The 80 down the road was partly wooded, but we also planted a few thousand pine trees as well as some maples and oaks. Lots of apple and pear trees as well but those take some maintenance. Mainly there for the deer. 20-25 years later we have pine groves dotting the property (also good for wildlife). 
Since you’re potentially designing a legacy property, maybe make some secret passageways like Webster had in his house. Just seems cool to say “let’s go downstairs” and open up the grandfather clock to find a fireman pole or something. 
Don't just run the wire.  Run a large conduit that is accessible to run wire later on to future-proof. 

 
Thanks for all the replies. Great stuff. 
 

I think we've decided that we’re gonna drop a trailer on the property and use that while the house is under construction. 

 
You will need to know if the land is buildable that you are looking at and what zoning.  Certain zoning won't allow you to build a residential home on or may require "X" number of acres for a parcel if it's agricultural.  If there is no utilities you need to know if the land will "perc" for a septic system.  What is the water table like?  Do you need to drill 100' or 1000' for water?  Does that area require certain casing for the well to prevent contamination?  Things like this can change well price from $5k - $30k.  Do you want a constant pressure system for your water, now you have more expensive controllers and variable speed pumps for your well.  Will the DNR permit a driveway to go where you want?  Are there wetlands?  How long is the driveway gong to be?  This can be a huge expense.  What about heat if no natural gas?  Propane?  Certain areas this is expensive. Building is "hot" now, prices of lumber have skyrocketed in the last year to 2.  Contractors and subs are super busy, are they going to want to work with you on your single job vs steady work?  What permits are all required?  Need to create a relationship with the local building inspector.  

I can be a fun process but if you think you are going to do it cheap by doing it all yourself be prepared to be stressed out.  We purchased 10 acres of land.  Sat on it for 4-5 years, planning.  Planting trees and getting the driveway in.  We then built the house and then later a 2nd shop/garage.  Love being out here but no everything is "roses".  No high speed internet, have satelite that is unreliable.  No cable, again have satelite.  No natural gas, have propane.  Last couple years has been very reasonable but one season there was a shortage and price was outrageous and thankfully we were prepared but some people were not able to refill there supply and needed to find a new heat source.  We have a 900' long driveway, need a way to plow it in the winter so figure a tractor at $30-40k.  Bunch of little things you don't initially think of.  Good luck!
No internet and no cable sounds AMAZBALLS. 
 

ETA - Thank you for your entire post. I felt like it deserves more than a one liner response. A lot of good info. The lack of public utilities will be hard to get used to for us the wife. 

 
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You will need to know if the land is buildable that you are looking at and what zoning.  Certain zoning won't allow you to build a residential home on or may require "X" number of acres for a parcel if it's agricultural.  If there is no utilities you need to know if the land will "perc" for a septic system.  What is the water table like?  Do you need to drill 100' or 1000' for water?  Does that area require certain casing for the well to prevent contamination?  Things like this can change well price from $5k - $30k.  Do you want a constant pressure system for your water, now you have more expensive controllers and variable speed pumps for your well.  Will the DNR permit a driveway to go where you want?  Are there wetlands?  How long is the driveway gong to be?  This can be a huge expense.  What about heat if no natural gas?  Propane?  Certain areas this is expensive. Building is "hot" now, prices of lumber have skyrocketed in the last year to 2.  Contractors and subs are super busy, are they going to want to work with you on your single job vs steady work?  What permits are all required?  Need to create a relationship with the local building inspector.  

I can be a fun process but if you think you are going to do it cheap by doing it all yourself be prepared to be stressed out.  We purchased 10 acres of land.  Sat on it for 4-5 years, planning.  Planting trees and getting the driveway in.  We then built the house and then later a 2nd shop/garage.  Love being out here but no everything is "roses".  No high speed internet, have satelite that is unreliable.  No cable, again have satelite.  No natural gas, have propane.  Last couple years has been very reasonable but one season there was a shortage and price was outrageous and thankfully we were prepared but some people were not able to refill there supply and needed to find a new heat source.  We have a 900' long driveway, need a way to plow it in the winter so figure a tractor at $30-40k.  Bunch of little things you don't initially think of.  Good luck!
This is great info. :thumbup:

 
Make sure the land isn't old burial ground. Not just the cliched "indian" burial ground but any burial ground.  Live stock and pets are the biggest potential issues. But old dumping grounds can be issues as well and they can be grown over. Investigate closely if a past use was farming.

 
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:goodposting:

Drainage is big. Ideally find a site that has a flat, somewhat elevated and clear of trees area to minimize the site work you'll have to do.

Solar orientation is next- nice to use passive solar to keep things comfortable and we'll lighted with southern exposure. Knowing prevailing wind direction is useful too, but not a primary.
Oh yea. IIRC, we like facing south. 

 
Just a quick couple of items to think about,

Check for any easements that are attached to the property

I would imagine you will need to run all utilities into the property.   gas, electric, water, sewer etc.  All can be expensive so upgrade to the most largest size and volume that you could ever need and then add 25%. Expanding or upgrading later will cost even more than the original costs to run.  

Check for mineral rights on property. If you won't own them, think about what could happen if someone else wants to drill for oil or gas or mine for some minerals. 

Inspect for soil conditions, especially if there are any expansive clays. Then engineer accordingly

Gotta run to a golf game. I will try and check back in if you have any questions or to add additional thoughts  
This was going to be my input as well.  Make sure you have clean title, and any easements or other encumbrances are accounted for.

Good luck.

 
TL/DR -

What do I need to know about purchasing land to build a custom house on it? 

Mo' info

Wife and I have agreed that we want to buy a large piece of property and build a custom house. We are a couple years away so we have plenty of time to plan and want to build our dream house. I was hoping to see if any of you guys have done this before and can offer some advice. I am a former home inspector and construction supervisor so I'm comfortable with the construction of the home and will be the acting supervisor/GC for my home. 

What we know for now:

-The property will be roughly 50-100 acres.

-Colonial style very similar to this.

-The exterior will be all brick on all sides. It will cost me but I want what I want. 

-10 ceilings

-wide open interior

-Master bedroom on the first floor

-Large roof overhangs (to protect the house from water)

-Budget 1 Million. (Includes the land)

Up in the air:

Location. I want WV but the wife isn't feeling it. For now were looking in norther, central MD. A nice piece of property with 59 acres just sold for ~$500k. That's doable for us. 

-Floor plans

-Septic or sewer

-Basement/no basement. (Wife wants one, Im not sure we need one.)

-What am I clearly not thinking of? 
If this is the home you are going to retire in I would think about a building a large ranch type home with a walkout basement on that size of grounds. My friend built one on northern Michigan.  4000SQ ft   Walking in to a fully open area that runs into the kitchen.   In one direction off the main room is a hallway that goes to 2 bedrooms with their own bathrooms.   Other direction the same but one regular and another  with a  master bedroom with huge bathroom. Full laundry room on first floor as well. The Bedrooms that face the rear land have their own decks.   Walkout basement has a guest room with a full bath and small kitchen area for guests to be able to make their own coffee and breakfast and not bother anyone else.  Also has a living room with full big screens and all the sound systems in lower area.  Then on the other end of the walkout is a full gym to workout.   The walkout basement area is as big as the whole upstairs making the home seems twice as big as it looks from the front. 

 
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If this is the home you are going to retire in I would think about a building a large ranch type home with a walkout basement on that size of grounds. My friend built one on northern Michigan.  4000SQ ft   Walking in to a fully open area that runs into the kitchen.   In one direction off the main room is a hallway that goes to 2 bedrooms with their own bathrooms.   Other direction the same but one regular and another  with a  master bedroom with huge bathroom. Full laundry room on first floor as well. The Bedrooms that face the rear land have their own decks.   Walkout basement has a guest room with a full bath and small kitchen area for guests to be able to make their own coffee and breakfast and not bother anyone else.  Also has a living room with full big screens and all the sound systems in lower area.  Then on the other end of the walkout is a full gym to workout.   The walkout basement area is as big as the whole upstairs making the home seems twice as big as it looks from the front. 
100% agree and 100% think it makes all the sense in the world. We're going with the two story colonial. 

 
Don't just run the wire.  Run a large conduit that is accessible to run wire later on to future-proof. 
And when you do this, have the electrician leave a fish cord in there. That way if you need to pull wire later you have a piece of cord that you can attach the wire to and pull it through from the other end.

 
We built in 2009 on 40 acres in MN. Sounds a lot like what you’re doing. Driveway 3/8 mile. Geothermal HVAC. Ask me anything. Good luck.


The building of the house I have covered. The land acquisition is the part Im almost clueless about....

The short version of what I know is.... you can buy land in 3 options(?)

Everything is unknown(?)

The land has been tested to see if it "perks"

The land is already subdivided (Not really interested in this as I don't want to ever sell it during my lifetime and ideally the kids and their kids will never sell it.)

Do I have it about right? Finding the land is the most important and hardest part.

 
A couple of things (opinions):
WV has lower tax rates than MD. Morgan, Berkeley, and Jefferson County are the West to East distribution of the panhandle counties. Morgan is a bit hillier with lower land values. It is 30 minutes from Winchester, VA and about the same from Hagerstown, MD. Berkeley is the larger populated county. Contains Martinsburg and is 30 minutes from Hagerstown and Winchester and is an hour from DC. Jefferson borders Loudoun County VA and has higher tax rates but is less than an hour from DC so it is mostly a commuter county.

Washington County MD is nice and I have seen large tracts go up for sale. 
 

I live in WV and have been watching for land for a few years. My plan is to get some water front property (Potomac River, Shenandoah River, or larger creeks like Back Creek, Sleepy Creek, Red Bud Run, Antietam Creek, etc) on a large parcel of 50+ acres. My area of search is The counties I already mentioned and Frederick County, VA and Clarke County, VA.

I am very familiar with well and septics in VA and WV as I was in that field for nearly 20 years. WV will be cheaper than VA for well and septic by a considerable amount.

All land is technically a subdivision. Of previous parent tracts. Further subdivision of property is governed by local codes and generally enforced by the County Zoning department. I know a lot about land development in WV and VA. Ask me anything.

 
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Check for mineral rights on property. If you won't own them, think about what could happen if someone else wants to drill for oil or gas or mine for some minerals. 
This happened to a friend.  His mom spent her life fighting against the fossil fuel guys in her county and ended up with fracking on her farm.

 
A couple of things (opinions):
WV has lower tax rates than MD. Morgan, Berkeley, and Jefferson County are the West to East distribution of the panhandle counties. Morgan is a bit hillier with lower land values. It is 30 minutes from Winchester, VA and about the same from Hagerstown, MD. Berkeley is the larger populated county. Contains Martinsburg and is 30 minutes from Hagerstown and Winchester and is an hour from DC. Jefferson borders Loudoun County VA and has higher tax rates but is less than an hour from DC so it is mostly a commuter county.

Washington County MD is nice and I have seen large tracts go up for sale. 
 

I live in WV and have been watching for land for a few years. My plan is to get some water front property (Potomac River, Shenandoah River, or larger creeks like Back Creek, Sleepy Creek, Red Bud Run, Antietam Creek, etc) on a large parcel of 50+ acres. My area of search is The counties I already mentioned and Frederick County, VA and Clarke County, VA.

I am very familiar with well and septics in VA and WV as I was in that field for nearly 20 years. WV will be cheaper than VA for well and septic by a considerable amount.

All land is technically a subdivision. Of previous parent tracts. Further subdivision of property is governed by local codes and generally enforced by the County Zoning department. I know a lot about land development in WV and VA. Ask me anything.
Thanks. We really need to get out and drive and start looking. Im really going to try and convince the wife to look in WV. Just so much more bang for the buck and much prettier than anything in MD.

Do you have any tips on how to know if the surrounding lands adjacent to what Im looking at will be turned into something awful like an industrial park or a apartment complex? Nothing is guaranteed but If there's a way or tips to avoid that Im all ears. It would be awful to buy a bunch of acres with a great view and settle there only to have a nuclear power plant built next to me. 

 
Thanks. We really need to get out and drive and start looking. Im really going to try and convince the wife to look in WV. Just so much more bang for the buck and much prettier than anything in MD.

Do you have any tips on how to know if the surrounding lands adjacent to what Im looking at will be turned into something awful like an industrial park or a apartment complex? Nothing is guaranteed but If there's a way or tips to avoid that Im all ears. It would be awful to buy a bunch of acres with a great view and settle there only to have a nuclear power plant built next to me. 
Berkeley and Morgan Counties have no Zoning Department, so it is possible that your neighbors could build something you aren’t pleased with. However, most of the “unsightly” development is confined to the area adjacent to the I-81 corridor. I have lived in the area my entire life and this has never been an issue on any property owned by my family or friends. 
Industry wants two things, quick access to I-81 and public utilities. The public utility is the mitigating factor in the outskirts. The worst thing I have seen are the infrequent automobile gardens. The abandoned or junk cars that get parked in the yard. With enough acreage you wouldn’t see it anyway. 

 
@STEADYMOBBIN 22 thanks for this thread... It's been fun so far to see the other side of the equation. 

At some point I'll try to dig more about what it is specifically about having a "colonial" as your house. It's interesting to me- I've had people tell me things like that in initial design meetings and realize their version and my version of the same thing are totally different. I've found there are usually specific images more than ways of inhabiting the space that are the overriding definition.

But anyways...for another day. I'll look forward to continuing to hear about the search and the wealth of great info being provided by our FFA brethren.

 
Following, even though I have no real interest in doing this. But it’s fun to read experts in fields totally different than mine (tech sales) talk about what they know. 

 
Berkeley and Morgan Counties have no Zoning Department, so it is possible that your neighbors could build something you aren’t pleased with. However, most of the “unsightly” development is confined to the area adjacent to the I-81 corridor. I have lived in the area my entire life and this has never been an issue on any property owned by my family or friends. 
Industry wants two things, quick access to I-81 and public utilities. The public utility is the mitigating factor in the outskirts. The worst thing I have seen are the infrequent automobile gardens. The abandoned or junk cars that get parked in the yard. With enough acreage you wouldn’t see it anyway. 
Any advice on some cities/counties to start looking? Areas to stay away from?

We’d love to have a stream or River on the property. (Is it our River?!??)

Mountains sounds nice.

We would likely get a couple horses. 
 

Wife balked at the idea of West Virginia previously and this time was no different. ... then she looked at the land and the prices. 
 

 
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@STEADYMOBBIN 22 thanks for this thread... It's been fun so far to see the other side of the equation. 

At some point I'll try to dig more about what it is specifically about having a "colonial" as your house. It's interesting to me- I've had people tell me things like that in initial design meetings and realize their version and my version of the same thing are totally different. I've found there are usually specific images more than ways of inhabiting the space that are the overriding definition.

But anyways...for another day. I'll look forward to continuing to hear about the search and the wealth of great info being provided by our FFA brethren.
So a “Colonial” to us is essentially a two story rectangular home. To be more specific, a Georgian Colonial, all brick with many of the following:

CHARACTERISTICS OF GEORGEAN HOMES

A square, symmetrical layout.

A row of horizontal, evenly spaced sash windows on each floor of the home.

Early Georgian homes had sash windows.The principal of the double-hung sash, with pulleys and counterweights in sash-boxes, remained unchanged, even in modern times. The same goes for the arrangements of internal folding shutters.

The average Georgian house had 2 to 3 stories, with a chimney on each end of the house.

The traditional number of windows is five on the upper floors, often with a Palladian window in the center over the door.

Georgian houses are known for their large paneled door, usually topped off with a pediment or arch. The doorway is also often framed by pedestals or columns.

Georgian doors are tall, often filling the entire opening, but have often been cut down later to accommodate a fanlight. Front doors were painted in dark colors or grained to imitate wood.

Fashionable homes have a main staircase and a secondary “backstairs” for servants.

Ordinary homes have one wooden staircase of straight flights joined by landings, or winding flight for each story.

You will most likely find the most elaborate decoration on the main flight from the entrance hall to the floor above.

In late Georgian homes, staircases were made of wood, and were now open-string, with a stepped profile rather than a straight one.

 
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Any advice on some cities/counties to start looking? Areas to stay away from?

We’d love to have a stream or a doc er on the property. (Is it our River?!??)

Mountains sounds nice.

We would likely get a couple horses. 
 

Wife balked at the idea of West Virginia previously and this time was no different. ... then she looked at the land and the prices. 
 
The areas really depend on what you are looking for. Berkeley Springs is a small town in a valley with a main access route running down the center. Anything to the South will be closer to Winchester, anything North will be closer to Hagerstown, and West closer to Martinsburg.
 

For Berkeley County, there are a number of nicer areas near the Potomac and certain creeks. The Hedgesville area is rural and spread out. Back Creek runs through that area and is a nice wide, slow moving creek. The area along the Potomac in Berkeley is mostly Maryland owned, though many lots go right up on the water line. Martinsburg would be the main town in terms of shopping. Though there are a lot of places within a 30 minute drive. In Berkeley, people gravitate towards the Falling Waters/ Spring Mills area in the Northern part of the county. This will be where you end up if you want Potomac front property. Most of the Potomac in this area is deep water and great for boating. The Opequon (O-Peh-Kin) Creek runs down the center of the county and is a slow, narrower creek with a number of nice properties nearby. I almost bought 25 acres on the Opequon a few years ago.

Jefferson County you would be looking for Harper’s Ferry for Potomac River area or farther east for Shenandoah River frontage. I prefer the Shenandoah River as it is really wide and shallow which is great for kayaking and tubing and it floats down to the Potomac at Harper’s Ferry. 
 

In Washington County, I think all of the Potomac River frontage is part of the State Park system as the old canal runs through there, so no River front property. 
 

So it all depends on what you want. If you have an area that you really like, I can let you know the good and bad areas.

Also, it would be fairly easy to find a property with a stream or pond. I live on a small farm with nearly an acre pond. I have a dock, the kids fish and swim. It is nice but I would prefer a bit more land with moving water. 

 
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Im headed to Berkeley Springs, WV today. 
There’s mountains, long railroad tracks and snow on the ground. 
 

The speed limits out here are great everything is 70 

Whike trying to find a spot out here with 100+ acres for $400,000 and I’m going up a mountain, narrow roads with no barriers over the edge and I had 60+-year-old woman behind me in a minivan tailgating me at 65 miles an hour. LOL I love it

 
There’s mountains, long railroad tracks and snow on the ground. 
 

The speed limits out here are great everything is 70 

Whike trying to find a spot out here with 100+ acres for $400,000 and I’m going up a mountain, narrow roads with no barriers over the edge and I had 60+-year-old woman behind me in a minivan tailgating me at 65 miles an hour. LOL I love it
If it weren’t for a pandemic, I’d treat you to a beer at a local dive. But, alas, we cannot partake.

 
The building of the house I have covered. The land acquisition is the part Im almost clueless about....

The short version of what I know is.... you can buy land in 3 options(?)

Everything is unknown(?)

The land has been tested to see if it "perks"

The land is already subdivided (Not really interested in this as I don't want to ever sell it during my lifetime and ideally the kids and their kids will never sell it.)

Do I have it about right? Finding the land is the most important and hardest part.
If you go with option 2, which i would recommend, I would go at least one step farther than a perc (percolation) test for your septic. Get an actual soils test done so that you have some idea what your foundation is going to cost you. I generally worked with larger buildings in a very different part of the country but saw several projects torpedoed when it turned out the foundation was going to blow up the budget. 

 
If you go with option 2, which i would recommend, I would go at least one step farther than a perc (percolation) test for your septic. Get an actual soils test done so that you have some idea what your foundation is going to cost you. I generally worked with larger buildings in a very different part of the country but saw several projects torpedoed when it turned out the foundation was going to blow up the budget. 
I recommended the bolded earlier in the thread. The rock in this area is wonky as hell.

 
I recommended the bolded earlier in the thread. The rock in this area is wonky as hell.
This all depends on where you are in each county. Much or Morgan County is sandstone based with deeper sandy soils. Most of Berkeley County is shale based with shallower silty soils but the shale is easily excavated. Jefferson County is predominately limestone  based so the soil depths are variable and clay. Sometimes you have shallow ledge rock which must be hammered to complete excavation. Obviously this is a generalization based on the predominant geology. 
 

I have conducted soil evaluations in VA for nearly 20 years and am currently licensed by DPOR to do so. I grew up performing perc tests in West Virginia as my father was a contractor.

 
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This all depends on where you are in each county. Much or Morgan County is sandstone based with deeper sandy soils. Most of Berkeley County is shale based with shallower silty soils but the shale is easily excavated. Jefferson County is predominately limestone  based so the soil depths are variable and clay. Sometimes you have shallow ledge rock which must be hammered to complete excavation. Obviously this is a generalization based on the predominant geology. 
 

I have conducted soil evaluations in VA for nearly 20 years and am currently licensed by DPOR to do so. I grew up performing perc tests in West Virginia as my father was a contractor.
There are also voids and caverns. There's a reason WVDOT writes their specs and pay items for foundations the way they do. 

I've been drilling deep foundations in the mid-Atlantic for over 25 years, including the panhandle.

I'm not disagreeing with you, or arguing with you. Just saying that, if he's laying out a legacy home, spend the money on the geotechnical report as it could save him a lot of headaches down the road. 

I WILL disagree that you can get to DC in an hour from Winchester  :lol:

 
There are also voids and caverns. There's a reason WVDOT writes their specs and pay items for foundations the way they do. 

I've been drilling deep foundations in the mid-Atlantic for over 25 years, including the panhandle.

I'm not disagreeing with you, or arguing with you. Just saying that, if he's laying out a legacy home, spend the money on the geotechnical report as it could save him a lot of headaches down the road. 

I WILL disagree that you can get to DC in an hour from Winchester  :lol:
Your points are fair, but I don’t believe I ever said you can get to DC in an hour from Winchester. You can get to the burbs of DC in Fairfax in an hour or less. Pretty sure I was talking about Charles Town, but I could be misremembering.

 
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Oh man.  Sign me up.
Right? I can’t believe that piece of property isn’t more. Haven’t made it quite far down the coast yet but northern Oregon coast is very nice, dotted with tons of little beach towns.

Bandon near there with world class golf. 

 
I know some view a lack of TV/Internet as a good thing, but I would be hard pressed to go without high-speed internet.  Starlink gives me some hope, but even that has latency that would bug me.

I was looking at some land (just a few acres) in my neck of the woods a while back.  Lack of utilities/internet was a big drawback, but it was adjacent to a provincial park with awesome trails.  I could literally walk out my front door and be at the trailhead.  

Hard to balance those trades.

 
When I built a house I found property with slope to it and had a better header beam put in to open a large area to accommodate a pool table(no lowly columns in the way), bar living room in the basement with French walk out doors and full side window s in the basement. This turned into my man cave and it is where we could play poker without annoying the wife and kids. I’d recommend a French drain to keep water drainage away from foundation. I had pipe go under ground to out,et off side of hill. Outside of walkout I had patio with hot tub. 

On your garage one thing worked well is having a drive out of back of garage. It works well functionally as my garage had too many basic thing such as riding lawn mower, 4 wheeler, etc. plus I was in the sticks so having a bay where I could have my generator run if power is lost was great. I could open a front bay, a back bay, and have air flow for getting rid of fumes. But I live in a heavy snow area, so maybe this isn’t concern for you. This is why also I didn’t have walk out terrace like you have. That would be a nightmare here due to snow and ice issues. Those I do see them. But I think they are having to put work in on snow removal and constant shoveling. Consider a large exterior propane auto kick on generator and have dormer to keep weather of it.

Since your budget is high I would consider a small kitchen on second floor. And shoot for laundry to first floor, unless you want laundry on both floors. Best of luck and show photos when you are done. I really love you are going four bay. Can never have a big enough garage. I put in a pool and will never do that again. I spent so much time maintaining the pool I wanted to bury it. Maybe you can get a pool service but I couldn’t since I was so remote. 
 

You also need to do some homework on water quality of dug wells before buying the land. The last thing you want is buy a deep well or have water quality where exquisite filtration is needed. Radon issues, etc... Also consider when you make your lot you get irrigation installed at time of lot prep. 

These are things I’ve learned over the years. Definitely a basement and definitely as much garage space as you can negotiate with Momma. 

 
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I forgot, you might need research propane for heat. I had buried 500 gallon tank. Because I couldn’t get piped into natural gas. And had gas appliances for cooking and dryer and a couple gas fireplaces. And had pellet stove. Good to think of having multiple sources of heat in rural settings. Also, I never got to it, but to do it again I would have put solar panels on back of my roof and garage. 
 

A thing that I didn’t think about ahead of time was a big vent hood over cooking top. Have to have that too. 

 
So a “Colonial” to us is essentially a two story rectangular home. To be more specific, a Georgian Colonial, all brick with many of the following:

CHARACTERISTICS OF GEORGEAN HOMES

A square, symmetrical layout.

A row of horizontal, evenly spaced sash windows on each floor of the home.

Early Georgian homes had sash windows.The principal of the double-hung sash, with pulleys and counterweights in sash-boxes, remained unchanged, even in modern times. The same goes for the arrangements of internal folding shutters.

The average Georgian house had 2 to 3 stories, with a chimney on each end of the house.

The traditional number of windows is five on the upper floors, often with a Palladian window in the center over the door.

Georgian houses are known for their large paneled door, usually topped off with a pediment or arch. The doorway is also often framed by pedestals or columns.

Georgian doors are tall, often filling the entire opening, but have often been cut down later to accommodate a fanlight. Front doors were painted in dark colors or grained to imitate wood.

Fashionable homes have a main staircase and a secondary “backstairs” for servants.

Ordinary homes have one wooden staircase of straight flights joined by landings, or winding flight for each story.

You will most likely find the most elaborate decoration on the main flight from the entrance hall to the floor above.

In late Georgian homes, staircases were made of wood, and were now open-string, with a stepped profile rather than a straight one.
I live in a Dutch Colonial. About 3,200 sf, plus attic (we are remodeling it) for another ~450sf, plus an unfinished basement for another ~400sf. Shingle siding, double-hung windows everywhere, chimneys, a "dormer"-style balcony that spans the front on the second floor. I love this style of home. Ours was built in 1906, so what is has in character (legit redwood 2x4s!) it lacks in bells and whistles. In fact, we are renovating our attic, our kitchen (we are expanding the kitchen into a "maids" room), and scoping out a landscape project. Oh, I'm the GC too. Stress is the norm around here right now.

A couple things. You will have a peaked roof, which means you will have an attic or third floor, correct? In your photos, I see dormers on the top floor, so you've got something up there. You can have that be regular old attic storage, but it won't cost much more for that to be livable conditioned space and, technically, added square footage for your home. You can also have a ton of storage space behind the knee walls under the rafters. And if that's the case, I'd recommend running wire to the attic/third floor to a 75 amp subpanel and also running a second HVAC zone. (Not sure where  you intend to put your water heater(s), panels, furnaces, etc., but obviously basements are nice places for that stuff). 

Good luck. Looking forward to folliowing this thread.

ETA: run stairs to your attic/third floor, regardless of whether it's livable or just storage.

 
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If we sell our house, how long before we have to buy again to avoid capital gains, IIRC, it’s two years. Is that the case?

Do I have any other options? Can I invest it short term? Can I buy land and build later? 

We have 3 years left of HS so if we sold the plan would be:

Sell the house, rent for a few years and then buy the land/legacy house we’ve been saving/planning to do. 
 

Thanks in advance. 

 
STEADYMOBBIN 22 said:
If we sell our house, how long before we have to buy again to avoid capital gains, IIRC, it’s two years. Is that the case?

Do I have any other options? Can I invest it short term? Can I buy land and build later? 

We have 3 years left of HS so if we sold the plan would be:

Sell the house, rent for a few years and then buy the land/legacy house we’ve been saving/planning to do. 
 

Thanks in advance. 
for a 1031 exchange you need to identify the new property in 45 days.  close escrow in 180 days

 
for a 1031 exchange you need to identify the new property in 45 days.  close escrow in 180 days
I dont know what that means but it sounds like I have a whopping 45 days to find a house after I sell mine? Does that vary by state? 

Im not saying your wrong, but that seems insane. 

 
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I dont know what that means but it sounds like I have a whopping 45 days to find a house after I sell mine? Does that vary by state? 

Im not saying your wrong, but that seems insane. 
I’m in CA.

You do get 250K/500K capital gains exemptions, if the house you sell is/has been your primary residence, at least 2 of the last 5 years. 

 
I’m in CA.

You do get 250K/500K capital gains exemptions, if the house you sell is/has been your primary residence, at least 2 of the last 5 years. 
so my house should sell for anywhere between 550 and 600,000, I owe 300,000.

What you’re saying above means - if I dont reinvest my money into another property within 45 days I should only have to pay capital gains on any profit over $250,000?

 
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