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HDMI Question (1 Viewer)

Mr. Ected

Footballguy
Trying to connect a kid's Nintendo Switch to my TV without running another cable thru the wall and having issues.

I have an HDMI hub that allows me to attach 3 cables to 1 HDMI port on my TV, what I'd like to do is connect that to the cable that is connected to the TV, and have the Nintendo and my AppleTV connected to the 3 port device so I can change them at will without messing with cables.

The problem I am having is that when I run the cable from the TV to a 2 female port connector so I can attach the hub and it's male input cable, I do not get a signal to the TV when I attach a device to the hub.

                                      /f M---------M AppleTV
TV-----M (f-f) M----Hub -f M---------M Nintendo
                                      \f Empty

This results in no signal, even with just one device attached to the hub. The hub has an input cable attached to it, with a male connector at the end.

I have tried attaching all of the cables separately to the TV and I get signals to go thru, so the components are all working.

Is there some 'RULE of HDMI' that you can't have that many connectors in a HDMI run?

I hope this makes some sense, and you can read the 'diagram' above.

TIA!!!

 
Trying to connect a kid's Nintendo Switch to my TV without running another cable thru the wall and having issues.

I have an HDMI hub that allows me to attach 3 cables to 1 HDMI port on my TV, what I'd like to do is connect that to the cable that is connected to the TV, and have the Nintendo and my AppleTV connected to the 3 port device so I can change them at will without messing with cables.

The problem I am having is that when I run the cable from the TV to a 2 female port connector so I can attach the hub and it's male input cable, I do not get a signal to the TV when I attach a device to the hub.

                                      /f M---------M AppleTV
TV-----M (f-f) M----Hub -f M---------M Nintendo
                                      \f Empty

This results in no signal, even with just one device attached to the hub. The hub has an input cable attached to it, with a male connector at the end.

I have tried attaching all of the cables separately to the TV and I get signals to go thru, so the components are all working.

Is there some 'RULE of HDMI' that you can't have that many connectors in a HDMI run?

I hope this makes some sense, and you can read the 'diagram' above.

TIA!!!
Can you do a temporary test without the f-f connector?

TV---------Hub

It would confirm/eliminate the f-f as the problem (insert joke about 2 females not being able to work together here) (or maybe a "scissors" joke, IDK)

 
Can you do a temporary test without the f-f connector?

TV---------Hub

It would confirm/eliminate the f-f as the problem (insert joke about 2 females not being able to work together here) (or maybe a "scissors" joke, IDK)
I am able to connect the hub directly to the TV and it works, I am also able to connect the f-f connector to an existing cable and that works too. THe issue is when I run them all together.

I know I can just run another cable thru the wall, I have a spare port on the TV; I am just trying to avoid it, and figure if I got the parts, might as well use 'em.

TIA

 
I had a similar issue when I connected to HDMI 2 on the TV. For some reason it worked when I switched to HDMI 1. 

I hope to go wireless this year

 
I will try that, unfortunately the boys came home so they are playing their new toys on the big TV now. I'll wait until tomorrow.

I wonder if part of the problem is the HDMI switch is not AC powered, so it may not be 'strong' enough to push thru the f-f connector, causing the 'handshake' problems the link mentions. It will probably be cheaper to buy another HDMI cable that is long enough to go thru the wall, and suck it up and fish it thru.

Thanks!!

 
Get a powered HDMI switch
Or do one better, get a stereo receiver. I got a Yamaha TSR-5830 for Christmas (will be going back to Costco as it has a power issue and won't stay on now) and pretty much all stereo receivers nowadays have HDMI switching built in. While my new stereo was working, I could just change the input and it changed both the sound and the TV because the HDMI output went to the TV. It worked really well and you get the benefit of way better sound than just the TV alone.

 
Get a powered HDMI switch
Or do one better, get a stereo receiver. I got a Yamaha TSR-5830 for Christmas (will be going back to Costco as it has a power issue and won't stay on now) and pretty much all stereo receivers nowadays have HDMI switching built in. While my new stereo was working, I could just change the input and it changed both the sound and the TV because the HDMI output went to the TV. It worked really well and you get the benefit of way better sound than just the TV alone.
That's what I do as well. I have 6 devices feeding HDMI into the receiver, and then one cable running to the TV from it.

Mr. Ected, you didn't mention if you were powering everything down completely and restarting them after changing the wiring.  If you haven't, you should try that as it can fail to handshake if you just rewire while they are running.

 
stbugs said:
Or do one better, get a stereo receiver. I got a Yamaha TSR-5830 for Christmas (will be going back to Costco as it has a power issue and won't stay on now) and pretty much all stereo receivers nowadays have HDMI switching built in. While my new stereo was working, I could just change the input and it changed both the sound and the TV because the HDMI output went to the TV. It worked really well and you get the benefit of way better sound than just the TV alone.
Well sure, thats what i use but if you don't have speakers and such a cheap powered hdmi switch is just fine

 
GregR said:
That's what I do as well. I have 6 devices feeding HDMI into the receiver, and then one cable running to the TV from it.

Mr. Ected, you didn't mention if you were powering everything down completely and restarting them after changing the wiring.  If you haven't, you should try that as it can fail to handshake if you just rewire while they are running.
I will try this today. Shortly after Heckmanm brought it up, my son came home and turn it on the big TV for the first time, so I couldn't bring myself to force him off.

 
I tried the power down/handshake process, it didn't seem to work. Since I have a spare port in the TV, I think I will just buy a 8 foot or so cable that I will run thru the wall (Just checked and I left a string to assist with this).

Thanks for all the help!!

 
I tried the power down/handshake process, it didn't seem to work. Since I have a spare port in the TV, I think I will just buy a 8 foot or so cable that I will run thru the wall (Just checked and I left a string to assist with this).

Thanks for all the help!!
I would suggest getting a powered one if you really need it

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=15263&seq=1&format=2
I have two spare HDMI ports on the TV, so I will probably just buy a new cable (~$10)and pull it thru the wall. I had bought the switch so I could use a FireStick on another TV that had two ports and an AppleTV on it; it works there, because I can connect the switch directly to the TV and the devices to the switch without the extra cables, so it won't have the handshake issue.

Thanks, tho!

 
Speaking of HDMI... I picked up an HDMI splitter to do the opposite... go from one HDMI cable to two outputs.

One nice side-effect of the one I got... so long as the primary output goes to a TV/receiver/etc that does a proper handshake it seems to satisfy HDCP protection on both outputs. Letting you use it with things like a computer monitor or other (*cough recording cough*) device that would normally just give an HDCP error if you plugged into them directly.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Speaking of HDMI... I picked up an HDMI splitter to do the opposite... go from one HDMI cable to two outputs.

One nice side-effect of the one I got... so long as the primary output goes to a TV/receiver/etc that does a proper handshake it seems to satisfy HDCP protection on both outputs. Letting you use it with things like a computer monitor or other (*cough recording cough*) device that would normally just give an HDCP error if you plugged into them directly.
:subscribe:

 

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