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Home-owners...What are your current projects? (1 Viewer)

...We're getting ready for "the big renovation."  We've been talking about doing it for 7 years...Looking to basically knock out the back wall, expand the kitchen, and move some walls to get us 2 distinct offices downstairs to support working from home.  In addition, fully renovating kitchen, stairs/bannister, floors, and front door.  Should be fun...And expensive as it's outside of my abilities (and WAY outside of how much time I have)

 
New windows going in as I type this. Holy #### these are nice windows. They thud when you tap them vs my old single pane garbage windows that pinged like a wine glass. The crew has roughly 5 bedroom windows and part of the triple sliders in back left to do. 
 

ETA: I’ll post some pics when they’re done. 

 
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We closed on a vacation house last week that we will be using part time as a rental property. There are two bedrooms upstairs, and an office downstairs we want to convert to a small bedroom but it does not have a door. Here is a pic of the office entrance

As you can see there is no header in the doorway, the opening is floor to ceiling. I'm thinking the easiest way to create privacy is to add a barn door like this one. I can't find any that would cover the floor-to-ceiling opening, so will need to add a header to the doorway. I'd like to do this in as minimally-invasive way as possible, without carving out much of the existing/painted dry wall. The header won't be load-bearing. Do I need to open up each side of the opening to insert jack studs for the header to sit on? Or can I simply "tack it in" to the existing studs? The hardware for the barn door will be secured on either side of the exiting opening, so the header itself will not be supporting the weight of the door. 

Handyguys thoughts appreciated - I need to get this done pretty quickly. 
Barn door project is done, here are pics as it progressed:

cut existing drywall down to studs

framed soffit

boxed in with plywood and sheetrock

seams taped and two coats of mud 

Door assembled and header painted

door stained and hung: open and closed

This project was definitely a reach for me, never done anything like it. I did it in bits and pieces over the course of almost two weeks., took my time and made few missteps. Very satisfying. We've got renters lined up for the next 7 weeks beginning this Saturday, which is good news/bad news. Love the house and we've had some great times in it but we need the dough. Getting a door on to make it a legit 3BR definitely made it more attractive to rent.

 
I need  to hang some bikes in my garage but not sure how to do it. The wall is drywall that is hung on furring strips that are attached to concrete block. What's the best way to anchor something to the block when there is drywall and a gap from the furring strips in between?

 
I need  to hang some bikes in my garage but not sure how to do it. The wall is drywall that is hung on furring strips that are attached to concrete block. What's the best way to anchor something to the block when there is drywall and a gap from the furring strips in between?
I've seen some people hang bikes from ceiling mounted holders.

 
Since we moved in, I've slowly been knocking out backyard projects - cutting down the growth in the back of the yard, to make it usable, put in a fire pit, put in a garden, cut down some trees, about to have 7 large pines cut down, killed about 14 snakes, installed some sun screens, had undecking installed, put up a large screen TV under the deck.  Lots of work and the place looks great, especially compared with when we moved in.

So, for a while I've complained that the builder put the deck stairs down to the patio directly behind and the full length of the deck.  I've told the wife numerous times I wanted to move them to one end.  Finally decided to have a deck guy come out and look at it and give me suggestions and an estimate.  5k was the estimate so the wife denied my request :rolleyes:   But, 5k was more than I was willing to pay too as the steps were still usable, although in somewhat rough shape.

So, my son and I decide - what the hell, we can do this.  Watched several videos and decide to jump in.  Now, I'm not the handiest guy in the world but I'm not a total dope either.  But this project did and still does make me a tad nervous as I've not done something to this level.

Anyway, my 20 year old son jumped in with both feet and over the last week we've been working on it.  Here's the thing though - after doing the demo of the old stairs I realize how crappy the builder did with them.  Several shortcuts and things they did wrong.  Buried the footers in the ground, used concrete nails for the deck joists and stringers (wtf!?) and basically had the footer in the ground.  After I got all the material off the 6x6's I was able to just push them over (again, wtf).  So, now I'm not only happy with the aesthetics (really opens up the underdecking to the yard and I can watch the TV from the fire pit!)  but also realize I maybe had a dangerous situation on my hands with these tall stairs built shoddily.

https://imgur.com/a/C2tVDvS

Question for you guys.  Now I'm nervous about the main deck structure.  You can see the 4 - 6x6's supporting the deck.  Should I look to reinforce those - if so, recommendation?  I'm thinking I may need to consult a deck guy for this part - thoughts?
So, in hindsight I’m glad I did this project (which still isn’t 100%) but i just let it drag on for way too long.  It’s so damn hot in Atlanta the last 6 months and I got Covid during this time which didn’t help.  It needed to be done - which I realized during demo but it was probably a little beyond my skills.  Feel like I got lucky - made several mistakes but most were correctable or not that noticeable.  Once I’m fully done and it’s painted I’m sure I’ll be thrilled with the results but man it’s been a while getting here and the cost was more than I expected (like always).  I’m guessing I ended up saving $2k doing it myself and it wasn’t $2k I had sitting around at the moment so it was worth it.

https://imgur.com/a/lEchEeG
 

I’ll post the end product once it’s painted even if it takes me the rest of the year.

 
Senor Schmutzig said:
I need  to hang some bikes in my garage but not sure how to do it. The wall is drywall that is hung on furring strips that are attached to concrete block. What's the best way to anchor something to the block when there is drywall and a gap from the furring strips in between?
I would put a 2x4 along the wall that is anchored into the CMU, then attach normal bike hangers to the 2x4.   I assume the furring strips are vertical, so you would be sandwiching the 2x4, drywall, furring against the CMU.   If the furring is horizontal, maybe cut out a strip the size of the 2x4 and attach the 2x4 directly against the CMU.  The face would then be pretty close to the face of the drywall.

 
I would put a 2x4 along the wall that is anchored into the CMU, then attach normal bike hangers to the 2x4.   I assume the furring strips are vertical, so you would be sandwiching the 2x4, drywall, furring against the CMU.   If the furring is horizontal, maybe cut out a strip the size of the 2x4 and attach the 2x4 directly against the CMU.  The face would then be pretty close to the face of the drywall.
This.

You can use Redhead expansion bolts (they expand into the cavity of the concrete blocks). You'd probably be ok just using masonry nails for the ledger, but I'm the king of overkill and thus am recommending the bolts.

 
This.

You can use Redhead expansion bolts (they expand into the cavity of the concrete blocks). You'd probably be ok just using masonry nails for the ledger, but I'm the king of overkill and thus am recommending the bolts.
As a structural engineer I am pretty sure this is how most contractors refer to me.

 
I have renovated and updated 2 homes. First one was my first home, second one was a home in   great area that we wanted to be in and was only 7 years old. 1 acre lot with wooded back area.  2800 SQ ranch but it was chopped up with walls in the living area.    We knocked out 4 walls and opened every area up and it looks twice as big as before.

What I learned from my first home is don`t half asss things to save a few bucks as you will regret it 5 years down the road.

 
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I would put a 2x4 along the wall that is anchored into the CMU, then attach normal bike hangers to the 2x4.   I assume the furring strips are vertical, so you would be sandwiching the 2x4, drywall, furring against the CMU.   If the furring is horizontal, maybe cut out a strip the size of the 2x4 and attach the 2x4 directly against the CMU.  The face would then be pretty close to the face of the drywall.
How will I know where the furring strips are located to anchor the 2x4 to? Would a regular stud finder pick it up? They are pretty thin.

 
Yup.

Cut the drywall away to find the strips. Anchor 2x4 to concrete using expansion bolts.

Redhead is just one brand of concrete anchor.  There are many others that are equivalent.
Correct. The term "Redhead" became kind of like "Kleenex" in the material supply business. Any brand like it would suffice. 

 
I used to work in the Powers / Dewalt anchors team, so I'm always fighting against that.  Like the blue screws being called "Tapcons" and the powder actuated anchors being called "Ramsets".
I thought I remembered you being in that line of work, though I was thinking you were at B&D. 1 for 2 is pretty good for my feeble memory these days :lol:

"Tecos" was the big brand-becomes-generic-name item when I sold building materials.

 
I thought I remembered you being in that line of work, though I was thinking you were at B&D. 1 for 2 is pretty good for my feeble memory these days :lol:

"Tecos" was the big brand-becomes-generic-name item when I sold building materials.
Dewalt and Powers are both brands under Stanley Black and Decker.

Same with Craftsman, Porter Cable, MAC Tools, Proto and some others. 

That's not to say that similar products in 2 different brands are equal in quality.  They are put through different levels of design and testing.

BTW, I'm think they are moving to rebrand almost all Powers anchor products to Dewalt. 

 
First time ever entering this thread so sorry if this question has been asked before. I have a standard Moen single handle shower faucet that is dripping. I assume the cartridge needs replaced. Watched some Youtube stuff and it LOOKS fairly simple. Is this a DYI project for someone with no plumbing experience? Or it it something I could really d**k up and end up flooding the space in the wall? Some kits out there on Amazon that seem to have everything needed for the job, even a cartridge remover. TIA.

 
First time ever entering this thread so sorry if this question has been asked before. I have a standard Moen single handle shower faucet that is dripping. I assume the cartridge needs replaced. Watched some Youtube stuff and it LOOKS fairly simple. Is this a DYI project for someone with no plumbing experience? Or it it something I could really d**k up and end up flooding the space in the wall? Some kits out there on Amazon that seem to have everything needed for the job, even a cartridge remover. TIA.


Pretty easy.

 
First time ever entering this thread so sorry if this question has been asked before. I have a standard Moen single handle shower faucet that is dripping. I assume the cartridge needs replaced. Watched some Youtube stuff and it LOOKS fairly simple. Is this a DYI project for someone with no plumbing experience? Or it it something I could really d**k up and end up flooding the space in the wall? Some kits out there on Amazon that seem to have everything needed for the job, even a cartridge remover. TIA.
You should be able to find the video that's right for you.

 
First time ever entering this thread so sorry if this question has been asked before. I have a standard Moen single handle shower faucet that is dripping. I assume the cartridge needs replaced. Watched some Youtube stuff and it LOOKS fairly simple. Is this a DYI project for someone with no plumbing experience? Or it it something I could really d**k up and end up flooding the space in the wall? Some kits out there on Amazon that seem to have everything needed for the job, even a cartridge remover. TIA.
Pretty easy and doubt you flood anything but the tub/shower. 

 
Replaced the window screening at our small summer cottage.  Most of the screening was decades old and falling apart.  Used a charcoal screening, which has a tighter weaving (and so a little more rigidity), as a partial sun block.  Not a difficult project after viewing a video.  The trick was getting the right spline width.

I’d earlier this summer put some UV-block film on the south and west windows that get hit hard by the summer sun.  First window was rather comical, but then got a good feel for it and you really can’t tell it’s there.

 
My garage door is suddenly wonky as hell, it opens fine but when you try to close it it will stop and start going back up. It will do that 5 or 6 times before I can get it all the way down. Can't figure out what the problem is, but it's an old chain drive and I want to upgrade to a nice quiet belt drive with wifi and all that.

I think I can install one myself, but finding a good one for around $200 is what I'm hoping to find.

Anyone have any recommendations?

 
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My garage door is suddenly wonky as hell, it opens fine but when you try to close it it will stop and start going back up. It will do that 5 or 6 times before I can get it all the way down. Can't figure out what the problem is, but it's an old chain drive and I want to upgrade to a nice quiet belt drive with wifi and all that.

I think I can install one myself, but finding a good one for around $200 is what I'm hoping to find.

Anyone have any recommendations?
You sure it's not just the safety sensors being misaligned? If the sensor is off, it would think something is under the door and cause it to go back up. That'd also explain why it goes up no problem because the sensors wouldn't matter when going up. 

 
You sure it's not just the safety sensors being misaligned? If the sensor is off, it would think something is under the door and cause it to go back up. That'd also explain why it goes up no problem because the sensors wouldn't matter when going up. 


First thing I checked. They seem to be fine. The door stops at random spots. 

 
Finally got around to resurfacing the driveway, or to be more exact my 9 year old daughter resurfaced the driveway (her idea not mine).   I was just there to pour more down as she needed it.   Once she did a few paths back and forth she got pretty good at controlling the blob with the squeegee and along the edges and the sidewalk was keeping it right at the edge of the driveway.

 
How old are the springs? Hardware- Maybe loose someplace? Those wheels on the edges can sometimes work themselves out or the door gets kind of pushed to ones side too far. 

:shrug:
My first thought were the springs. I’m on my 3rd set and it sounds like these are the culprit. How old is the opener?

 
Thanks for the previous responses. One more very basic question (yea, I am definitely not a plumber). I had a plumber install a new sink and garbage disposal. I have to say, I was uneasy with the entire installation because they seemed fairly clueless. I eve had to google how to do one part of the install for them when the sink had some special pieces to it. Anyways, one thing that has bothered me the entire time since is that the cover for the sink sprayer is constantly loose. It would be moving around, I'd get under there and screw it tight as I could, it would come loose again, rinse and repeat. As far as I can tell, all that holds it in place is the plastic nut thing on the under side, which is VERY hard to get to due to the way the island is built. Did they miss a step? Is there some sort of locknut they missed? Or caulking or putty somewhere? I have youtubed this to death and every video I see looks like that plastic nut thing is really all that should be there, but it just won't hold tight. What can I do to alleviate that?

 
Thanks for the previous responses. One more very basic question (yea, I am definitely not a plumber). I had a plumber install a new sink and garbage disposal. I have to say, I was uneasy with the entire installation because they seemed fairly clueless. I eve had to google how to do one part of the install for them when the sink had some special pieces to it. Anyways, one thing that has bothered me the entire time since is that the cover for the sink sprayer is constantly loose. It would be moving around, I'd get under there and screw it tight as I could, it would come loose again, rinse and repeat. As far as I can tell, all that holds it in place is the plastic nut thing on the under side, which is VERY hard to get to due to the way the island is built. Did they miss a step? Is there some sort of locknut they missed? Or caulking or putty somewhere? I have youtubed this to death and every video I see looks like that plastic nut thing is really all that should be there, but it just won't hold tight. What can I do to alleviate that?
You could try tightening it up and applying a little clear silicone caulk to hold things in place. Not ideal but could be an option. 

 
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My first thought were the springs. I’m on my 3rd set and it sounds like these are the culprit. How old is the opener?


I think its original, so almost 20 years.

The spring looks fine, the sensors look fine...I'm gonna call a garage door guy to diagnose the problem.

 
I think its original, so almost 20 years.

The spring looks fine, the sensors look fine...I'm gonna call a garage door guy to diagnose the problem.
It’s probably the opener and/or the rollers/bearings. I use Banko fwiw. Love my new Liftmaster opener. It fancy. 

 
Thanks for the previous responses. One more very basic question (yea, I am definitely not a plumber). I had a plumber install a new sink and garbage disposal. I have to say, I was uneasy with the entire installation because they seemed fairly clueless. I eve had to google how to do one part of the install for them when the sink had some special pieces to it. Anyways, one thing that has bothered me the entire time since is that the cover for the sink sprayer is constantly loose. It would be moving around, I'd get under there and screw it tight as I could, it would come loose again, rinse and repeat. As far as I can tell, all that holds it in place is the plastic nut thing on the under side, which is VERY hard to get to due to the way the island is built. Did they miss a step? Is there some sort of locknut they missed? Or caulking or putty somewhere? I have youtubed this to death and every video I see looks like that plastic nut thing is really all that should be there, but it just won't hold tight. What can I do to alleviate that?
Need some photos to answer…

 
Thanks for the previous responses. One more very basic question (yea, I am definitely not a plumber). I had a plumber install a new sink and garbage disposal. I have to say, I was uneasy with the entire installation because they seemed fairly clueless. I eve had to google how to do one part of the install for them when the sink had some special pieces to it. Anyways, one thing that has bothered me the entire time since is that the cover for the sink sprayer is constantly loose. It would be moving around, I'd get under there and screw it tight as I could, it would come loose again, rinse and repeat. As far as I can tell, all that holds it in place is the plastic nut thing on the under side, which is VERY hard to get to due to the way the island is built. Did they miss a step? Is there some sort of locknut they missed? Or caulking or putty somewhere? I have youtubed this to death and every video I see looks like that plastic nut thing is really all that should be there, but it just won't hold tight. What can I do to alleviate that?
Need some photos to answer…
Photos of what specifically? The screw or whatever underneath? I can try, but it is a seriously tight space under there. Also, can we post pics here?
 
Anyone here gone from a traditional electric tank water heater to a hybrid (heat pump) water heater? Looks like some nice tax breaks kick in for these next year, but I’m worried about noise level (will need to be in closet off finished basement area, and from the sound of it, I’ll need to louver the doors for enough airflow), and I may even need to install ducting for inlet and outlet airflow - possibly go outside. Current unit is ~20 year old 80 gallon conventional tank style - sticker on it claims it uses over 5,100 kWh per year (equates to over $600 a year).
 
I could use a few opinions on this one.

We are in the process of changing our basement flooring from carpet to vinyl plank. I've taken up all of the carpet and padding and I have one problem area that I'm not sure how to handle. In one spot in our basement, we've experienced a little water damage over the past few years. I'm 95% sure that the source of the issue was a first floor window where the rain would collect in the window pane and somehow leaked in. I've since put down sealant around the joints and no more water to date.
Anyway, the water trickled down the interior wall and hit our window well in the basement and the framing around that window has taken a beating the last couple of years with the paint chipping, but the wood is in good shape. I know that some water must have been on the interior wall and I'm finding out the extent of any damage on this project. After taken out the carpet (minimal damage on the carpet nor padding), I've pulled up the baseboard and I've got the situation in the images below.

https://imgur.com/a/Hgumm7U

The wall is still very strong - no squishiness at all. The dark black circles on the wall bottom are marks put there by someone. I'm concerned about the splotchy areas. Would you:

1. Call in mold remediation company
2. Cut out the drywall to see what damage has occurred behind the drywall. If so, how much would you take out?
3. Bleach or clean the suspect areas without cutting anything.
4. Ignore the suspect areas.
5. Other

I'd love to farm this out to a handyman, but most seem to want a big project and not this little baby one. I don't have a lot of experience with cutting drywall, nor framing. I know what it probably entails and it doesn't scare me, but I know it's a chunk of work.
 

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