southeastjerome
Footballguy
Anyone have a preference of fertilizer? Scotts vs. Lesco??
OK, but if you are cutting St. Aug at 4" and not dethatching on a regular basis, you will scalp the crap out of it, eventually. De-thatching wam season grasses helps promote new growth by cutting stolons and efffectively producing more plants. And yes, the higher HOC means healthier turf no matter what type of grass your growing.Negative, Ghostrider.1-2" is good for Bermuda, but St. Aug should be cut between 2.5 to 4" high. Also, it does vary according to how hot the summer is in your location. Lean toward the higher end of those ranges in hotter locations. Here in Austin, I cut my St. Aug as high as I can from mid-July to early September.There is alot of good info in here. Remember though, it depends on the type of grass you have in your lawn. Warm season grasses such as bermudagrass and St. Augustine should be dethatched more regularly so that scalping can be avoided and lower heights of cut (HOC) can be achieved without scalping. 1-2" is a good HOC of the warm season grasses. Warm season grasses are sometimes overseeded in warmer climates with ryegrass in the Fall so that when they go dormant in the winter, the lawn will be green.
Cool season grasses (ryegrass, fescues, Kentucky Bluegrass) do not need much de-thatching but it's not a bad idea in the Spring to dethatch and interseed to recover from winter kill. Aeration is always a good idea, especially on high traffic or compacted areas. HOC's for cool season grasses should be 2-3" with the higher the HOC the better.
i have always used Scotts. bonus S in Marchturf builder in June, Sept and DecAnyone have a preference of fertilizer? Scotts vs. Lesco??
i cut mine 3 inches, we have centipede here in Florida. at this height it will get thick, like walking on carpetCutting the grass long is key. I cut mine long and it looks so much better than all my neighbors. It hold moisture so well and does keep a lot of weeds out. I only fertilize twice a year and water during the very hot, dry part of summer.3) Cutting: c) Keep your grass long (think plush carpet, not old fashioned astro turf). A longer blade will shade out weeds and be more drought resistant
The more the better. It stimulates growth and keeps it nice & purty lookin.I can't do this with mine. Don't have the time or energy...but I do have two young boys with bright, shiny futures in lawn care ahead of 'em.add to cuttingmy Dad us to be the maintenance supervisor for FSU, he took care of the football and baseball fields. He says to cut ever 3 to 4 days. they cut the football and baseball fields every day. i am to lazy to cut mine that often .
I really prefer Vigoro. Only reason I go to Home Depot. It's always worked better than Scotts for me.Anyone have a preference of fertilizer? Scotts vs. Lesco??
Decided to split the difference and see how it plays out. It was already looking a little shaggy after two days.Let's get some numbers here. I measured mine. Typical setting has deck 2-1/4" off the ground which puts the blade at about 3-1/2" high. My highest setting puts the deck at 3-1/4" high for cutting height of about 4-1/2" high. Sounds high, but it looks good. Afraid it's going to look out of control 4 days after I cut, though.By the way, you ever get that gator blade?Not sure how high it measures. I have my mower 2 notches from the highest setting.How high?Cutting the grass long is key. I cut mine long and it looks so much better than all my neighbors. It hold moisture so well and does keep a lot of weeds out. I only fertilize twice a year and water during the very hot, dry part of summer.3) Cutting: c) Keep your grass long (think plush carpet, not old fashioned astro turf). A longer blade will shade out weeds and be more drought resistant
you are right, the more time you spend on your grass the better it will look. the old retired guys in my neighborhood all have great lawnsThe more the better. It stimulates growth and keeps it nice & purty lookin.I can't do this with mine. Don't have the time or energy...but I do have two young boys with bright, shiny futures in lawn care ahead of 'em.add to cuttingmy Dad us to be the maintenance supervisor for FSU, he took care of the football and baseball fields. He says to cut ever 3 to 4 days. they cut the football and baseball fields every day. i am to lazy to cut mine that often .
If you are using fertilizer that has crab grass preventative, new seed will not grow very well or even at all.As I mentioned in the first post, seed during the early fall, not during the spring if you can help itSteps as planned:AerateDe-thatchfertilizeRe-seedIf you guys plan on doing any raking/dethatching, make sure you do it before you put crabgrass preventer down, or you'll break up the barrier.
Read the label on the fertilizer bag, it should tell you the timing and rate of application. If it is a pre-emergant herbicide mixed with the fertilizer, any seeds that have not germinated will not grow.I've been re-seeding over the past few weeks. One part of my lawn at a time since I'm putting down top soil with the seed and it's time consuming. When should I fertilize? The fertilizer I have in the garage has weed control.
What if you just bought the place, and the lawn needs some help? Is it OK to seed right now? Will it even help?If you are using fertilizer that has crab grass preventative, new seed will not grow very well or even at all.As I mentioned in the first post, seed during the early fall, not during the spring if you can help itSteps as planned:If you guys plan on doing any raking/dethatching, make sure you do it before you put crabgrass preventer down, or you'll break up the barrier.
Aerate
De-thatch
fertilize
Re-seed
You live in Seattle? If you can't grow grass there, you might as well quit. This is really as good a time as any to get started. Get a bag of ryerass seed, a few bags of mulch or seed cover and some starter fertilizer. Cut the grass, broadcast the seed, cover bare areas with mulch, hit it with starter fertilizer, keep lawn moist until you see new growth. Wait about 10-14 days to give it a mowing.What if you just bought the place, and the lawn needs some help? Is it OK to seed right now? Will it even help?
Get starter fertilizer with no weed control.I know Scotts makes a starter fertilizer that has crabgrass preventer that supposedly won't harm the new seeds, but I'm not sure how effective/harmful it is, and it is difficult to find and more expensive since I've only seen it in the smaller bags.I've been re-seeding over the past few weeks. One part of my lawn at a time since I'm putting down top soil with the seed and it's time consuming. When should I fertilize? The fertilizer I have in the garage has weed control.
Well this is my first attempt. I've done nothing other than mow it since we moved in 6 months ago. It's starting to grow really fast rigth now, but there are some bare spots and a lot of moss (moist place and some shady areas).Dark Matter said:You live in Seattle? If you can't grow grass there, you might as well quit. This is really as good a time as any to get started. Get a bag of ryerass seed, a few bags of mulch or seed cover and some starter fertilizer. Cut the grass, broadcast the seed, cover bare areas with mulch, hit it with starter fertilizer, keep lawn moist until you see new growth. Wait about 10-14 days to give it a mowing.Britney Spears said:What if you just bought the place, and the lawn needs some help? Is it OK to seed right now? Will it even help?
Great! If the bare areas aren't too big, consider sodding them. Take a small patch to the local sod form or nursery, they should be able to ID the type of grass you have and then buy how much you need. Growing seed in established yards can be somewhat frustration because of weed invasion but if you can sod the big areas and seed/mulch the small areas, you can get a decent stand all over. Good Luck.Well this is my first attempt. I've done nothing other than mow it since we moved in 6 months ago. It's starting to grow really fast rigth now, but there are some bare spots and a lot of moss (moist place and some shady areas).Dark Matter said:You live in Seattle? If you can't grow grass there, you might as well quit. This is really as good a time as any to get started. Get a bag of ryerass seed, a few bags of mulch or seed cover and some starter fertilizer. Cut the grass, broadcast the seed, cover bare areas with mulch, hit it with starter fertilizer, keep lawn moist until you see new growth. Wait about 10-14 days to give it a mowing.Britney Spears said:What if you just bought the place, and the lawn needs some help? Is it OK to seed right now? Will it even help?
Why skeptical? if I had an entire yard to do from scratch I'd sodAny recommendations on sod vs. seeding to start a new lawn? We just finished building and I'm looking into sod, but I'm skeptical...
sodAny recommendations on sod vs. seeding to start a new lawn? We just finished building and I'm looking into sod, but I'm skeptical...
I've place sod in most of my front yard and prefer that over seeding. There's a big difference between the area that has sod and the area where I planted seed.Any recommendations on sod vs. seeding to start a new lawn? We just finished building and I'm looking into sod, but I'm skeptical...
SOD!!Why skeptical? if I had an entire yard to do from scratch I'd sodAny recommendations on sod vs. seeding to start a new lawn? We just finished building and I'm looking into sod, but I'm skeptical...
If you have a grub problem then yes.skillz said:What about grub control? Do others apply it every year to their lawn?
I hired a lawn services once. My lawn was destroyed, and neighbor said lawn my looked like Iraq (GW1). Scotts 4 step, Bayer grub control, dethatch S&F, core aeriate, lime if necc.., and water 2-3 times weekly 2 am approx best time to start spinklersMy tip is to pay a professional to spray and cut the lawn, I got home from work last night and it looked like PNC park
i just did this this weekend. well, i didn't reseed, i overseeded, but since i hit my lawn pretty hard with a dethatcher and spread sand out all over it, it looked kind of bare so it was almost like reseeding.a true reseeding is where you rototill your entire exissting lawn into a soil bed, roll it with a water roller, rake, seed, fertilize, roll again then cover with a thin layer of peet moss or mulch or straw. I've done that too, its easy but it takes a day to do it right and you have to rent the equipment unless yo uknow someone. If you have an existing lawn that just needs some TLC, just overseed the hell out of it with whatever is prevalent in your area and it will fill in. You have to water it to keep it damp daily until the seed germinates, usually 2 weeks max. Concurrently hit it with a starter fertilizer. It will help your existing lawn and give the new grass a boost.fsufan said:thinking about reseeding my lawn. anyone done this? benefits?
so overseeding is putting seed on top of your grass?i just did this this weekend. well, i didn't reseed, i overseeded, but since i hit my lawn pretty hard with a dethatcher and spread sand out all over it, it looked kind of bare so it was almost like reseeding.a true reseeding is where you rototill your entire exissting lawn into a soil bed, roll it with a water roller, rake, seed, fertilize, roll again then cover with a thin layer of peet moss or mulch or straw. I've done that too, its easy but it takes a day to do it right and you have to rent the equipment unless yo uknow someone. If you have an existing lawn that just needs some TLC, just overseed the hell out of it with whatever is prevalent in your area and it will fill in. You have to water it to keep it damp daily until the seed germinates, usually 2 weeks max. Concurrently hit it with a starter fertilizer. It will help your existing lawn and give the new grass a boost.fsufan said:thinking about reseeding my lawn. anyone done this? benefits?
yes - usually with a machine, cuts small grooves in the ground and drops seeds in the "groove" and covers it back upso overseeding is putting seed on top of your grass?i just did this this weekend. well, i didn't reseed, i overseeded, but since i hit my lawn pretty hard with a dethatcher and spread sand out all over it, it looked kind of bare so it was almost like reseeding.a true reseeding is where you rototill your entire exissting lawn into a soil bed, roll it with a water roller, rake, seed, fertilize, roll again then cover with a thin layer of peet moss or mulch or straw. I've done that too, its easy but it takes a day to do it right and you have to rent the equipment unless yo uknow someone. If you have an existing lawn that just needs some TLC, just overseed the hell out of it with whatever is prevalent in your area and it will fill in. You have to water it to keep it damp daily until the seed germinates, usually 2 weeks max. Concurrently hit it with a starter fertilizer. It will help your existing lawn and give the new grass a boost.fsufan said:thinking about reseeding my lawn. anyone done this? benefits?
Yeah, got the Gator Blade. Worked good, but that was for a Craftsman mower that I hated. Now I have a new Toro and it is working good with the factory blade.For height, I would like to cut the highest setting, but I like to keep the flexibility of jumping to a higher setting when the grass gets too long.Let's get some numbers here. I measured mine. Typical setting has deck 2-1/4" off the ground which puts the blade at about 3-1/2" high. My highest setting puts the deck at 3-1/4" high for cutting height of about 4-1/2" high. Sounds high, but it looks good. Afraid it's going to look out of control 4 days after I cut, though.By the way, you ever get that gator blade?Not sure how high it measures. I have my mower 2 notches from the highest setting.How high?Cutting the grass long is key. I cut mine long and it looks so much better than all my neighbors. It hold moisture so well and does keep a lot of weeds out. I only fertilize twice a year and water during the very hot, dry part of summer.3) Cutting: c) Keep your grass long (think plush carpet, not old fashioned astro turf). A longer blade will shade out weeds and be more drought resistant
sod looks good intially but I would take a seeded lawn that germinated in it's home soil. Seed requires much less watering once it becomes mature (typically 2 to 3 seasons). To keep a sod lawn looking good year after year requires constant and consistent watering. If you opt to seed make sure you soften up the soil really good, spread the seed and then thraw straw over entire area. The straw keeps the moisture in , keeps the soil from drying out to quickly and makes it easier for your wife to navigate over the yard when the sprinkler needs to be moved.sodAny recommendations on sod vs. seeding to start a new lawn? We just finished building and I'm looking into sod, but I'm skeptical...
you realize once the sod takes hold and matures in a bout a year, maybe 2 it's just "normal" grass.sod looks good intially but I would take a seeded lawn that germinated in it's home soil. Seed requires much less watering once it becomes mature (typically 2 to 3 seasons). To keep a sod lawn looking good year after year requires constant and consistent watering. If you opt to seed make sure you soften up the soil really good, spread the seed and then thraw straw over entire area. The straw keeps the moisture in , keeps the soil from drying out to quickly and makes it easier for your wife to navigate over the yard when the sprinkler needs to be moved.sodAny recommendations on sod vs. seeding to start a new lawn? We just finished building and I'm looking into sod, but I'm skeptical...
I wouldn't roll your lawn unless it was lumpy due to a mole problem or something. It just compacts your soil which is bad for your lawn.Every time I've aerated, the clumps break up on their own.anyone use a lawn roller. Ours is pretty lumpy - wondering how much this may help?
Used to work on a golf course and after aeration we'd whip around a golf cart with a drag mat on the back
http://www.globalspec.com/NpaPics/71/11201..._ExhibitPic.jpg
it would break up the cores and "top dress" to help fill in any unevenness.
yeah - they do break up, but this helped distribute the broken up soil to create a lump free surface and fill in the low spots. Dont think I could get my mower fast enough to be effective at this though.Interesting on the rolling - didnt think of that. I guess I should just continue to top dress the low spots..I wouldn't roll your lawn unless it was lumpy due to a mole problem or something. It just compacts your soil which is bad for your lawn.Every time I've aerated, the clumps break up on their own.anyone use a lawn roller. Ours is pretty lumpy - wondering how much this may help?
Used to work on a golf course and after aeration we'd whip around a golf cart with a drag mat on the back
http://www.globalspec.com/NpaPics/71/11201..._ExhibitPic.jpg
it would break up the cores and "top dress" to help fill in any unevenness.
I've seen a lot of people screw up sod, so I was skeptical that it was the sod itself. I have zero knowledge on this stuff. We had to seed/straw for final inspection, so I'm going to see how it works out before I make the plunge into sod or not. We have 2 dogs, so I'm think I might sod a corner or so to give them somewhere to go that's not just a mud pit.Speaking of dogs, anyone know of anything that helps difuse those burn spots from them going in the same area over and over again?you realize once the sod takes hold and matures in a bout a year, maybe 2 it's just "normal" grass.sod looks good intially but I would take a seeded lawn that germinated in it's home soil. Seed requires much less watering once it becomes mature (typically 2 to 3 seasons). To keep a sod lawn looking good year after year requires constant and consistent watering. If you opt to seed make sure you soften up the soil really good, spread the seed and then thraw straw over entire area. The straw keeps the moisture in , keeps the soil from drying out to quickly and makes it easier for your wife to navigate over the yard when the sprinkler needs to be moved.sodAny recommendations on sod vs. seeding to start a new lawn? We just finished building and I'm looking into sod, but I'm skeptical...
or you can use the old fashioned method of just mowing your lawn short (1 inch) spreading seed out with a spreader, then take your plastic leaf rake, turn it upside down and just drag it over your entire lawn to give you good seed/soil contact. If you have really bare spots, sprinkle a thin layer of peet moss over it to keep the birds from feasting on your seeds.yes - usually with a machine, cuts small grooves in the ground and drops seeds in the "groove" and covers it back upso overseeding is putting seed on top of your grass?i just did this this weekend. well, i didn't reseed, i overseeded, but since i hit my lawn pretty hard with a dethatcher and spread sand out all over it, it looked kind of bare so it was almost like reseeding.a true reseeding is where you rototill your entire exissting lawn into a soil bed, roll it with a water roller, rake, seed, fertilize, roll again then cover with a thin layer of peet moss or mulch or straw. I've done that too, its easy but it takes a day to do it right and you have to rent the equipment unless yo uknow someone. If you have an existing lawn that just needs some TLC, just overseed the hell out of it with whatever is prevalent in your area and it will fill in. You have to water it to keep it damp daily until the seed germinates, usually 2 weeks max. Concurrently hit it with a starter fertilizer. It will help your existing lawn and give the new grass a boost.fsufan said:thinking about reseeding my lawn. anyone done this? benefits?
Any pet store sells pills that you can give the dogs that helps with the pee burn spots.I've seen a lot of people screw up sod, so I was skeptical that it was the sod itself. I have zero knowledge on this stuff. We had to seed/straw for final inspection, so I'm going to see how it works out before I make the plunge into sod or not. We have 2 dogs, so I'm think I might sod a corner or so to give them somewhere to go that's not just a mud pit.Speaking of dogs, anyone know of anything that helps difuse those burn spots from them going in the same area over and over again?you realize once the sod takes hold and matures in a bout a year, maybe 2 it's just "normal" grass.sod looks good intially but I would take a seeded lawn that germinated in it's home soil. Seed requires much less watering once it becomes mature (typically 2 to 3 seasons). To keep a sod lawn looking good year after year requires constant and consistent watering. If you opt to seed make sure you soften up the soil really good, spread the seed and then thraw straw over entire area. The straw keeps the moisture in , keeps the soil from drying out to quickly and makes it easier for your wife to navigate over the yard when the sprinkler needs to be moved.sodAny recommendations on sod vs. seeding to start a new lawn? We just finished building and I'm looking into sod, but I'm skeptical...
I've seen those, but I'm not into giving them pills just to protect my grass. I'm looking for some sort of fertilizer or spray that we can use instead.Any pet store sells pills that you can give the dogs that helps with the pee burn spots.
When we lived in our condo (very small yard) we started just dumping a large glass of water where they peed. Pet stores do sell something for the yard but it didn't do any better than water.I've seen those, but I'm not into giving them pills just to protect my grass. I'm looking for some sort of fertilizer or spray that we can use instead.Any pet store sells pills that you can give the dogs that helps with the pee burn spots.
at the boldedIt is true that you can get deeper, more fibrous roots by seeding. But I would not go as far to say that in the long run it makes it a whole lot better lawn. Again, it has more to do with the type of grass your dealing with here. And, please for the love of all that is holy, quit overwatering.sod looks good intially but I would take a seeded lawn that germinated in it's home soil. Seed requires much less watering once it becomes mature (typically 2 to 3 seasons). To keep a sod lawn looking good year after year requires constant and consistent watering. If you opt to seed make sure you soften up the soil really good, spread the seed and then thraw straw over entire area. The straw keeps the moisture in , keeps the soil from drying out to quickly and makes it easier for your wife to navigate over the yard when the sprinkler needs to be moved.sodAny recommendations on sod vs. seeding to start a new lawn? We just finished building and I'm looking into sod, but I'm skeptical...
I believe those things are a scam. Only way to prevent this is more frequent watering.Any pet store sells pills that you can give the dogs that helps with the pee burn spots.Speaking of dogs, anyone know of anything that helps difuse those burn spots from them going in the same area over and over again?
i used a walk behind this year. Rented from Home Depot for 4 hours. The thing was like riding a bucking bronco. Hopefully the results will be appreciable.Depending on the size of the lawn, you can rent a walk-behind unit. I bought a core-aerator that I pull behind my lawn tractor. Or, you can hire someone.
I have always set mine on highest setting and never looked back. This year, I started short (wanted to keep it even) and will slowly raise it as the temp gets up there.I typically cut my lawn pretty high, it's definitely higher than all my neighbors. I have the mower on the 3rd from highest setting. Well, I fertilized two weeks ago and we have had a lot of rain, so I had to cut last night with plans on cutting again this weekend. I decided to cut on the highest setting to avoid cutting off too much, and I have to say my yard looks pretty damn sweet right now. How high do you guys cut? Thinking of maybe sticking with this height. Only thing I am afraid of is if I have to wait longer than normal due to schedule or weather, and the grass gets really long and I don't have an option of going any higher for a pre-cut.
check out your local ads, paper, flyer etc. Cost about $70 to rent an aerator around here and do it myself. Hired a guy with his own who is doing it for $50.i used a walk behind this year. Rented from Home Depot for 4 hours. The thing was like riding a bucking bronco. Hopefully the results will be appreciable.Depending on the size of the lawn, you can rent a walk-behind unit. I bought a core-aerator that I pull behind my lawn tractor. Or, you can hire someone.