Doug B

Members
  • Content count

    27,309
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

421 Excellent

About Doug B

  • Rank
    Footballguy

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Favorite NFL Team
    New Orleans Saints

Recent Profile Visitors

14,984 profile views
  1. Bump for the day crowd
  2. Does "charter school" mean the same thing all over the country? For instance, all the charter schools around here, so far as I'm aware, are non-profits. They also cede a lot of control to the local parish school systems - for instance, they must follow the parish school calendar for days off, holidays, etc. On most serious school-related issues, charter school parents can appeal directly to the local school boards and the local school boards are fully authorized to act and make things happen (presumably by threats to pull charters). Really, all "charter school" means around here is "public school in which the parish has subcontracted the school's day-to-day operation". Charters can add to the state's public school curriculum, but cannot come up with their very own curricula from whole cloth.
  3. Good points. Yes, it used to ignite with the door open. Also, the broiler can ignite right now, and will do so with the door open (as always with this oven). Still could be a wire or something, true. I am going to try a visual inspection after work ... I can get a lot of the oven components out of the way to get a look. IF I can slip into the open oven far enough EDIT: Forgot to add -- while the igniter is a simple device, it is also very fragile. I had the same issue with this oven five years ago, except that I don't know what caused the igniter failure back then.
  4. Bumping for the day crowd, and adding a question: Anyone ever replace an igniter on a gas oven? Got a wall unit, so I shouldn't have to get down on the floor like I might with a stove/oven range combo. Just sat through several YouTube videos. Looks like a not-too-bad repair IF it's just unscrew the unit and connect wires. As simple as it is conceptually ... I don't like to get into non-standard electrical connections, stripping wires, splicing wires, etc. I can get a GE replacement part that will be a exact fit ... will cost a bit more, but not too bad IMHO ($50 from Home Depot). The tough part seems to be accessibility and lighting the work area. Even with not having to get on the floor, there's chance I will have to pull the oven out of the wall (although the guy that replaced the Bake igniter in 2011 on the same oven did not take the unit out of the wall). If the oven stays in the wall, I have to reach and squeeze to get to the area I have to get to ... might have to do a lot by "feel" and I don't have the handyman experience to do it by feel. So, anyway ... anyone ever attempted this kind of repair?
  5. I'm not talking about slamming the oven door in anger with all your might. I mean losing grip on the oven door and letting it close uncontrolled. It shut hard, but not insanely hard. And it was a one-time thing ... definitely not something we're always doing. The oven was working perfectly five minutes before the hard door closure. For a visual, it's a GE Built-In Gas Oven, this model. It's roughly 15 years old ... came with the house we bought in 2006. It had its igniter replaced in 2010. So ... what can a forceful door closure do to an oven? Mess up the igniter? Mess up the electronic controls somehow? The high-level symptoms are that the oven cannot pre-heat ... but the broiler works fine. Cutting off the oven's power for a few minutes, then switching it back on, had no effect. Thanks in advance for any advice.
  6. Big dead zone in my draft ... Rounds 16-22: 16.18 (378) SP Milone, Tommy 17.7 (391) RP Boxberger, Brad 18.18 (426) 1B Paulsen, Ben 19.7 (439) RP Doolittle, Sean <--- been good, but hurt a lot 20.18 (474) OF Blanco, Gregor 21.7 (487) C Pena, Brayan 22.18 (522) 2B Goins, Ryan Picking James Shields (4th round) and Andrew Heaney (7th round) has really hurt. On the other hand, I have had some useful guys from the later rounds: 30.18 (714) RP Cedeno, Xavier (39 good bullpen IP) 31.7 (727) RP Nuno, Vidal (47 good bullpen IP) 34.18 (810) UT Pennington, Cliff (meh, but can use to back up MI) 36.18 (858) RP Axford, John (meh, but can use fill out bullpen) 38.18 (906) RP Cahill, Trevor (50 decent bullpen IP) 39.7 (919) OF Bourn, Michael (speed cookie, can hit a little) 40.18 (954) C Ross, David (very nice C back-up) 42.18 (1002) 3B Gillaspie, Conor (serviceable 3B back-up) My 50th rounder -- relief pitcher Cesar Ramos, now in the Tigers' system -- has actually pitched 47 big-league innings this year, they just aren't good enough to be usable (ERA 6.04, WHIP 1.68).
  7. That was an expensive poster then. But normally, peeing on the wall plus tearing a poster is a "run 'em off the premises" thing. If a cop happens to see it, or be near enough to respond ... yeah, you can hit 'em up with some minor-ish charges**. And, yeah, it's not the U.S., and the same "ground rules" -- both codified law and cultural traditions -- will be different. Dunno though ... starting to feel like a huge molehill was built on not much. From what I know for sure, which ain't much. ** and, yeah, I know public urination these days can lead to sex-offender status in some jurisdictions.
  8. There are no words, Shady. I am sorry for your loss.
  9. Like I said ... no good guys (and if they all urinated on the wall, shame on them all). However: didn't give the on-the-spot Brazilians the right to initiate a shakedown. Also not good guys.
  10. Sounds like it was a confusing situation that Lochte heavily embellished in the initial telling ... but also sounds like some of the particular Brazilians he and his teammates were dealing with that morning were pretty dirty themselves. Not really seeing any "good guys" here except maybe the young collegiate swimmers accompanying Lochte (depending on their specific actions that morning). Since the vandalism appears to not have happened ... is there any reliable information on what happened between "swimmers roll up to gas station to use the bathroom" and "security guard and/or gas-station worker 'ask' for cash"?
  11. Michael Brown, found something that might be worth reading.
  12. Good point ... this was worth pointing out. Michael Brown: does your thermostat have controls analogous to this one (ignore four buttons at left)? If so: at night, when it's cutting on/off too much ... how do you have it set? a ) the Fan set to "On" and the System set to "Cool" b ) the Fan set to "On" and the System set to "Off" Also: which noise bugs you at night? The outside unit (condenser) kicking on? The air handler (fan) kicking on? Or both? Is the outside unit close to your bedroom window, to where it's easy to hear it kick on and off?
  13. If you're awake and it's convenient ... next time you have the thermostat set to "On" and the condenser still cuts off, go have a look at the thermostat reading. See if there any kind of indication that the condenser is "resting". On mine, the "condenser is resting" icon is a pair of blinking snowflakes. When the snowflakes stop blinking and go solid, the condenser cuts back on. Thinking more on this ... the "Auto" setting, really, is just having your unit aim to maintain a certain temperature. So, working properly, it will shut off when the set temperature is reached. Then cut back on when the house warms up past the set temperature -- and so on. What the "On" setting must do, then, is run until it can't run no more based on some internal condenser-motor-saving control.
  14. We got a new AC unit (condenser/outside unit only) plus new thermostat in 2010. One new thing that I noticed is that the new thermostat won't always allow the condenser to run on demand -- sometimes there's a few minutes lag from when you set a new temperature and when the AC reacts to the new setting. During this lag phase, the thermostat displays a blinking icon to let us know the condenser needs a few minutes. It's like the thermostat and condenser sort of "work together" to protect the condenser motor. Based on what I wrote above: I've never exactly tested this (our AC is pretty much always on 'Auto') ... but I suspect that the condenser would cut off at times if we let it run for hours and hours on end. It runs a lot in the south Lousiana heat, yes ... but typically cuts off several times a day for at least 5-10 minutes or so if we're leaving it at one set temperature. Now then, of course -- I'm talking about cutting off when it reaches the set temperature, which is how it's supposed to function. At the same time, though ... from what I can gather, the condenser NEEDS those cut-offs from time to time. Running it a lot at night, when it's relatively cool out (say, 75 degrees on down), might lead to the condenser have to do some automatic cut-offs. So, anyway ... what you're experiencing could be that your thermostat is "enforcing" a temperature (indirectly, condenser run time) based on some baseline settings your HVAC guy did (or didn't) set when the system was installed. Upon installation of our unit, HVAC guy asked us what baseline temperature we wanted the thermostat to use, and the AC now will reset itself to that temperature a few times a day automatically (including once every night). It's not always ideal -- our baseline is a cool temperature, and we go and adjust the thermostat up a degree or two a few times a day. But it feels awesome during summer mornings when the unit takes advantage of the relatively not-hot hours before sunrise to cool the house more efficiently. Looks like I've written a lot, and I hope it makes sense. Upshot: have someone take a look at your thermostat, and ensure that it's set the way you want it (timings, baseline temp, etc.). Make sure it's not still on factory defaults or something. Worst case ... a bad thermostat can't be ruled out, but that's a very cheap fix.
  15. What ... is that?