Ductless AC/Heat EXPERTS - advice sought (1 Viewer)

[wilked]

The upstairs is prolly 1200 square feet total. This first guy didn't bid out the entire upstairs (we didn't ask I guess either though).

From what this guy said and looking at where we'd put one of the heads in our living room kitchen area I think we'd run into a few issues dropping one of those units in though in that area. Not really seeing a good space for it with walls, windows. There's brick involved as well in that room so not sure about getting the tubes to the outside and then running that piping around the house seems not great.

Learning a ton more about this so will ask the next guy though.

I'm not really a fan of them in the kitchen.  It depends on your geometry though.

Maybe this - describe your first level (number/types of rooms, and is it open concept, closed, or somewhere in middle).  Same for upper level.  Each level is 1200?  Only 2 levels?

For my house, for instance, lowerl level is not open concept but fairly open and I would only put one head in if I were to do it (Probably in dining room).  Natural circulation would keep the level pretty cool.  

Does your lower level get hot?   Do you have any cooling there?  What state / town you live in?

 

[gianmarco]

We are moving before looking at this

That was my next suggestion. Has to be cheaper.

 

[The General]

As long as its not in the furnace cabinet itself you should be fine. Is your furnace up on bricks?

Confirmed the furnace cabinet is above water (would have to be boatload of water to get this wet).

 

[The General]

That was my next suggestion. Has to be cheaper.

Like everywhere it's insane prices here. People pay stupid money...no clue where everyone is getting this cash.

 

[gianmarco]

Going to need a picture of your floor plan, temps you usually keep your house, mother's maiden name and last 4 of your social before I can offer up anything else helpful.

 

[The General]

I'm not really a fan of them in the kitchen.  It depends on your geometry though.

Maybe this - describe your first level (number/types of rooms, and is it open concept, closed, or somewhere in middle).  Same for upper level.  Each level is 1200?  Only 2 levels?

For my house, for instance, lowerl level is not open concept but fairly open and I would only put one head in if I were to do it (Probably in dining room).  Natural circulation would keep the level pretty cool.  

Does your lower level get hot?   Do you have any cooling there?  What state / town you live in?

Will have to come back to this as am on a phone and running a shop vac in this ####ty space where the furnace is but upstairs has 2 rooms on one end that we want to cool, we would settle for one room TBH. These head units would fit perfectly in these rooms - they share a wall and the pipes that connect to the outside unit would be very unobtrusive.

There is a hallway that comes out from these rooms to the living space that is pretty open kitchen off that space. This area doesn't really seem to have a good space to be one of these heads from my limited knowledge - lots of big windows and not too much space to get the tubes outside (which would then have to run all the way around the house to the condenser thing.

This is all above ground. 

On the lower level a garage, the furnace room (this is in unfinished space that looks like something out of a horror movie)  don't need to cool these. There is a finished media room probably about 500 sq feet down there but don't really need cooling since is mostly underground, even during heatdome temp only got up to 80 on the last day. Was bearable.

Am cursing the ####ers who built this house at the moment. These #######s in 1950's in Seattle loved to build basements. Why do this in an area that rains a ####load?!!?!

ETA: I am in the Greenwood / Phinney Ridge neighborhood of Seattle

 

[The General]

Going to need a picture of your floor plan, temps you usually keep your house, mother's maiden name and last 4 of your social before I can offer up anything else helpful.

 I appreciate the help and this is a good way to distract myself from being hunched over sucking up water. The ceiling in this furnace room is just shorter me and there is all kinds of pipes and #### to hit my head on.

 

[STEADYMOBBIN 22]

You can also relocate the entire furnace/ air handler to a closet on a different floor. 
 

Ill stop with the proposals and just wish you luck. I worry about your water problem and could help you with that but that’s a separate thread. 

 

[The General]

You can also relocate the entire furnace/ air handler to a closet on a different floor. 
 

Ill stop with the proposals and just wish you luck. I worry about your water problem and could help you with that but that’s a separate thread. 

This sounds expensive but will mention this to next quote people just to gauge their reaction.

Not knowing #### about this I am really at the mercy of the experts that come visit and their knowledge. The one thing I did like about crazy expensive first guy is the price was guaranteed no additional stuff and they have been around for literally 100 years.

We went with a friend of a friend for window replacements a decade ago and have had some issues with the way those were installed.

Of course I don't want to get totally bent over though

Thanks again FBGs. Appreciate the banter and the suggestions.

 

[The General]

Not for nothing, I work in the temporary AC rental world and it's going to stay hot in your neck of the woods for a while, years. Don't put it off, bite the bullet and get in line with everyone else doing the exact same thing you are trying to do in a house that wasn't designed for AC.

Sounded to me like the guy just didn't want the job so he bid high but I think Steady mentioned that above.

This is what we should have done years ago. We will have some solution in place hopefully by this summer but am paying way more now (or getting less) for being lazy and cheaping out on doing this earlier.

 

[CletiusMaximus]

Be aware of local/state/federal incentives as they can save you a ton and may affect how you approach the job.  We did a high velocity ductless system about 12 years ago and saved a ton due to some govt incentives my wife found and stacked together.  Not really able to judge your situation, but it just seems really inefficient to install a system for only two bedrooms. We were going to do only our top floor, but thought about it a bit and realized it really doesn't make sense to try to compartmentalize it in your house.  If you really just need two rooms cooled, and really hate window units, there are portable units that vent through a window but are not visible from outside.

 

[beer 30]

This is what we should have done years ago. We will have some solution in place hopefully by this summer but am paying way more now (or getting less) for being lazy and cheaping out on doing this earlier.

Meh, don't beat yourself up too bad. Up until last year and about 2-3 times a year since Jesus was a baby, you didn't need it. Yea, you're paying more for it because everyone is doing the same thing but the folks who think it was a one year event and aren't doing anything are the ones who are going to be screwed. Prices won't be going down in your lifetime most likely. Also will help with resale when you finally move (which is what you really should have done years ago  ).

 

[The General]

Be aware of local/state/federal incentives as they can save you a ton and may affect how you approach the job.  We did a high velocity ductless system about 12 years ago and saved a ton due to some govt incentives my wife found and stacked together.  Not really able to judge your situation, but it just seems really inefficient to install a system for only two bedrooms. We were going to do only our top floor, but thought about it a bit and realized it really doesn't make sense to try to compartmentalize it in your house.  If you really just need two rooms cooled, and really hate window units, there are portable units that vent through a window but are not visible from outside.

Will check out the rebates / incentives for sure when we pull the trigger. Been a crazy morning with work, this water situation, and calling up AC places.

Got one guy who is a friend of a friend that will come out next week to take a look. This seems like it may be a bit too under the table situation for us to use but we will see what the guy says still.

Of big AC / HVAC businesses in the area, called 3 and times for just estimates ranged from late this month to May. Insane.

These dudes are cleaning up out here!

We have looked at the portable ones and it could perhaps work but would be not ideal with how the window is set up. AC in the bedrooms will be a good resale thing and will let us enjoy the house a lot more until we sell so we want to go the more permanent route.

 

[The General]

Meh, don't beat yourself up too bad. Up until last year and about 2-3 times a year since Jesus was a baby, you didn't need it. Yea, you're paying more for it because everyone is doing the same thing but the folks who think it was a one year event and aren't doing anything are the ones who are going to be screwed. Prices won't be going down in your lifetime most likely. Also will help with resale when you finally move (which is what you really should have done years ago  ).

Amen to all this. We could live without it until last year...it was literally 100+ in the house and we had to go to a hotel...but in regular years it was just not comfortable for a couple weeks.

Will help resale and we of course get to enjoy a cooler house. Owned a home in Seattle for 20 years so have tons of equity but I am cheap and don't like extending credit.

We definitely should have done this years ago!!! So dumb! 

 

[Mrs. Rannous]

On the lower level a garage, the furnace room (this is in unfinished space that looks like something out of a horror movie)  don't need to cool these. There is a finished media room probably about 500 sq feet down there but don't really need cooling since is mostly underground, even during heatdome temp only got up to 80 on the last day. Was bearable.

Can the furnace be moved elsewhere in the basement?  Is there attic space for it?  Mr R's parents retrofitted their 50's house with AC by using the attic space.  Mr R wondered if your house has one of the low pitch roofs that prevents this.

Your situation sounds like what we went through getting solar installed.  After the Big Freeze, everyone who could got the stuff.  It was insane.

 

[The General]

Can the furnace be moved elsewhere in the basement?  Is there attic space for it?  Mr R's parents retrofitted their 50's house with AC by using the attic space.  Mr R wondered if your house has one of the low pitch roofs that prevents this.

Your situation sounds like what we went through getting solar installed.  After the Big Freeze, everyone who could got the stuff.  It wasi nsane.

This would not have entered my mind but was mentioned by Mobbin above. The ductwork moving seems like it would make this a crazy fix but is worth asking the next guy.

Big picture...this has illustrated to me the importance of staying ahead of stuff and not procrastinating.

I think ultimately AC in the 2 bedrooms in this place will be worth it for lifestyle while we live here and then will be somewhat recouped in resale. 

 

[wilked]

Another note. You are not restricted to wall units on ductless. They make cassettes brag go into the ceiling. So don’t get hung up on wall space necessarily…

 

[The General]

Another note. You are not restricted to wall units on ductless. They make cassettes brag go into the ceiling. So don’t get hung up on wall space necessarily…

I will keep this in mind and bring up to the next guy. Now have 4 people to come but over the course of months.

@ChiefD They are killing it up here! PNW needs you.

 

[The General]

@ChiefD

If I could bug you again. We turned down the super expensive first place. We have lined up visits from other long standing HVAC places but won't see them for months.

I did get a friend of a friend who is coming out tomorrow. Are there any questions to ask this guy to make sure he is legit, like credentials or questions you would ask this guy? He has an LLC, he did my buddy's cabin. But that's pretty much all I know at the moment.

Thanks!

 

[ChiefD]

@ChiefD

If I could bug you again. We turned down the super expensive first place. We have lined up visits from other long standing HVAC places but won't see them for months.

I did get a friend of a friend who is coming out tomorrow. Are there any questions to ask this guy to make sure he is legit, like credentials or questions you would ask this guy? He has an LLC, he did my buddy's cabin. But that's pretty much all I know at the moment.

Thanks!

I would make sure he has an EPA license. He would have to have that to buy refrigerant, so its probably safe to assume he has it. But you never know.

Other than that I would probably ask:

1. What do you need for electrical? Are you going to run that yourself or do I need an electrician?

2. Get model numbers for everything he quotes you. Make sure it's all spelled out in writing.

3. See what kind of vehicle he is driving. Is it a pick up truck or work van? Is it in good shape or beat to hell? Does he have his name or company name on the side with phone number? If he doesn't take care of his work vehicle he won't take care of your project.

4. Does he have a Facebook page or website so you can look him up.

I would not pay him upfront. If he's reputable he should have accounts set up at the dealers. You don't want a guy taking your money and paying off someone elses equipment or labor or whatever.

If I think of more I'll let you know. 

 

[The General]

Update I'll put in here for anyone who may be looking at these products down the road.

We had the independent guy come out. He was very reasonable presented some good ideas about installing. We gave him the HW we wanted him to match. His cost came in around 9K. The electrical component he said we need to work with his guy, he didn't want to be middle man in the convo. That was going to be about another 1K I believe. I get that paying this price I need to do some of the project management.

We had a 3rd place come out, established business and they presented a few options. ranging from 12K (smaller head units than the other places quoted us on - but he said this was an adequate size for these rooms) to 14K for matching HW that other places gave quotes on, and a 3rd nicer looking option that we didn't know about - head units that are recessed into the ceiling. This was about 17K. 

So now we have to pick. We are leaning the established place with lower price. Need to decide on the HW. Expensive place is out for sure.

TLDR - Get a few quotes when doing this

 

[gianmarco]

Ok, some quick napkin math tells me this job should be 12K-ish.  

I took a comparable Carrier unit (I have access to pricing on these) and priced out two heads and an outdoor unit. Added in your electrical (this will need to be done because they need their own circuit) and permit fees.

Figured in two days of labor for 1 guy. Added a couple extra thousand for incidentals (line set, misc materials, etc) and that's what I came up with.

Get another bid. 18K is way high.

Update I'll put in here for anyone who may be looking at these products down the road.

We had the independent guy come out. He was very reasonable presented some good ideas about installing. We gave him the HW we wanted him to match. His cost came in around 9K. The electrical component he said we need to work with his guy, he didn't want to be middle man in the convo. That was going to be about another 1K I believe. I get that paying this price I need to do some of the project management.

We had a 3rd place come out, established business and they presented a few options. ranging from 12K (smaller head units than the other places quoted us on - but he said this was an adequate size for these rooms) to 14K for matching HW that other places gave quotes on, and a 3rd nicer looking option that we didn't know about - head units that are recessed into the ceiling. This was about 17K. 

So now we have to pick. We are leaning the established place with lower price. Need to decide on the HW. Expensive place is out for sure.

TLDR - Get a few quotes when doing this

Such a stud.

 

[The General]

Such a stud.

Indeed 

 

[The General]

Bid accepted and will have (2) 9k BTU units of frosty goodness installed well in time for future Pacific Northwest Heatdomes. Went with the middle bid, wanted that piece of mind of a business.

Thanks again for the knowledge people. @ChiefD if you are ever in my neck of the woods, beers are on me.

 

[cosjobs]

Did Otis refer this guy?

He only refers elevator guys

 

[cosjobs]

Could you install a heat pump where the furnace is?

 

[The General]

Could you install a heat pump where the furnace is?

Heat pump sits outside connects to the head units. The rooms they are going on share a wall, and the electric panel is on the lower floor of that same wall so install is pretty straight forward. 

 

[cosjobs]

Heat pump sits outside connects to the head units. The rooms they are going on share a wall, and the electric panel is on the lower floor of that same wall so install is pretty straight forward. 

I meant one big central heat pump to provide all your heating and a/c. Use existing duct work. 

 

[The General]

I meant one big central heat pump to provide all your heating and a/c. Use existing duct work. 

Ah. There was no room above the furnace without having to redo a lot of stuff. 

 

[cosjobs]

Ah. There was no room above the furnace without having to redo a lot of stuff. 

In Texas, a heat pump unit can provide your heating, as well as your cooling, so you could remove the furnace.

Check out this article.

They are expensive, but now seem competitive with the mini-split arrangement you are looking at.

I have a heat pump for my pool. It keeps it warm through early Dec. In the summer I can use the same unit to cool down the pool (but I never do that: I like warm water).

 

[ChiefD]

In Texas, a heat pump unit can provide your heating, as well as your cooling, so you could remove the furnace.

Check out this article.

They are expensive, but now seem competitive with the mini-split arrangement you are looking at.

I have a heat pump for my pool. It keeps it warm through early Dec. In the summer I can use the same unit to cool down the pool (but I never do that: I like warm water).

Well, technically you can remove a furnace but you still need an air handler (which is about the size of a furnace) to move the air. That furnace or air handler is what houses the blower motor and evaporator coil to push that heat and cooling to the house.

In the case of the OP,  if I remember correctly, he could not put an full sized air conditioner (or heat pump for that matter) due to space restrictions around his home. 
 

But to sum it up, a heat pump sitting outside on it’s own can’t do squat unless there is a delivery system inside (furnace or air handler). You also need the evaporator coil inside.

 

[ChiefD]

I will add though, in some parts of the country you can install a packaged unit, which houses both heating and cooling and blower and everything outside. Your ductwork then gets extended outside and everything gets pushed from the outside. These are more common in southern climates.

 

[Terminalxylem]

Quick question for the AC experts.

I have a Mitsubishi split system in my home, 3 units in total. The pipe leading to the master bedroom condenser outside is leaking water. It’s a slow leak, which only leaks water periodically, accompanied by a sound like pressure is being released. It appears that pressure blew a segment of insulation off the piping, or maybe it just disintegrated after being saturated with water.

I haven’t really maintained the units since they were installed over 15 years ago, but I also haven’t turned them on in months (we typically only use AC a couple months in summer, while we sleep). I live in Hawaii, so the pipes never freeze FWIW.

Thoughts?

 

[ChiefD]

Quick question for the AC experts.

I have a Mitsubishi split system in my home, 3 units in total. The pipe leading to the master bedroom condenser outside is leaking water. It’s a slow leak, which only leaks water periodically, accompanied by a sound like pressure is being released. It appears that pressure blew a segment of insulation off the piping, or maybe it just disintegrated after being saturated with water.

I haven’t really maintained the units since they were installed over 15 years ago, but I also haven’t turned them on in months (we typically only use AC a couple months in summer, while we sleep). I live in Hawaii, so the pipes never freeze FWIW.

Thoughts?

Have you ever cleaned out the filters? They typically have washable filters in them.

 

[Terminalxylem]

Quick question for the AC experts.

I have a Mitsubishi split system in my home, 3 units in total. The pipe leading to the master bedroom condenser outside is leaking water. It’s a slow leak, which only leaks water periodically, accompanied by a sound like pressure is being released. It appears that pressure blew a segment of insulation off the piping, or maybe it just disintegrated after being saturated with water.

I haven’t really maintained the units since they were installed over 15 years ago, but I also haven’t turned them on in months (we typically only use AC a couple months in summer, while we sleep). I live in Hawaii, so the pipes never freeze FWIW.

Thoughts?

Have you ever cleaned out the filters? They typically have washable filters in them.

I’ve cleaned the filters on the indoor units - are there other filters on the condensers?

 

[ChiefD]

Quick question for the AC experts.

I have a Mitsubishi split system in my home, 3 units in total. The pipe leading to the master bedroom condenser outside is leaking water. It’s a slow leak, which only leaks water periodically, accompanied by a sound like pressure is being released. It appears that pressure blew a segment of insulation off the piping, or maybe it just disintegrated after being saturated with water.

I haven’t really maintained the units since they were installed over 15 years ago, but I also haven’t turned them on in months (we typically only use AC a couple months in summer, while we sleep). I live in Hawaii, so the pipes never freeze FWIW.

Thoughts?

Have you ever cleaned out the filters? They typically have washable filters in them.

I’ve cleaned the filters on the indoor units - are there other filters on the condensers?

Typically not on the outdoor portion but the condenser coil should be cleaned once a year.

 

[Terminalxylem]

Quick question for the AC experts.

I have a Mitsubishi split system in my home, 3 units in total. The pipe leading to the master bedroom condenser outside is leaking water. It’s a slow leak, which only leaks water periodically, accompanied by a sound like pressure is being released. It appears that pressure blew a segment of insulation off the piping, or maybe it just disintegrated after being saturated with water.

I haven’t really maintained the units since they were installed over 15 years ago, but I also haven’t turned them on in months (we typically only use AC a couple months in summer, while we sleep). I live in Hawaii, so the pipes never freeze FWIW.

Thoughts?

Have you ever cleaned out the filters? They typically have washable filters in them.

I’ve cleaned the filters on the indoor units - are there other filters on the condensers?

Typically not on the outdoor portion but the condenser coil should be cleaned once a year.

Well that definitely has never happened. Any reason I try DIY cleaning and replace/repair the pipe myself? FTR, I have the technical skills of a third grader.

 

[Hawks64]

Quick question for the AC experts.

I have a Mitsubishi split system in my home, 3 units in total. The pipe leading to the master bedroom condenser outside is leaking water. It’s a slow leak, which only leaks water periodically, accompanied by a sound like pressure is being released. It appears that pressure blew a segment of insulation off the piping, or maybe it just disintegrated after being saturated with water.

I haven’t really maintained the units since they were installed over 15 years ago, but I also haven’t turned them on in months (we typically only use AC a couple months in summer, while we sleep). I live in Hawaii, so the pipes never freeze FWIW.

Thoughts?

Have you ever cleaned out the filters? They typically have washable filters in them.

I’ve cleaned the filters on the indoor units - are there other filters on the condensers?

Typically not on the outdoor portion but the condenser coil should be cleaned once a year.

Well that definitely has never happened. Any reason I try DIY cleaning and replace/repair the pipe myself? FTR, I have the technical skills of a third grader.

I'd say no based on that.

 

[ChiefD]

Quick question for the AC experts.

I have a Mitsubishi split system in my home, 3 units in total. The pipe leading to the master bedroom condenser outside is leaking water. It’s a slow leak, which only leaks water periodically, accompanied by a sound like pressure is being released. It appears that pressure blew a segment of insulation off the piping, or maybe it just disintegrated after being saturated with water.

I haven’t really maintained the units since they were installed over 15 years ago, but I also haven’t turned them on in months (we typically only use AC a couple months in summer, while we sleep). I live in Hawaii, so the pipes never freeze FWIW.

Thoughts?

Have you ever cleaned out the filters? They typically have washable filters in them.

I’ve cleaned the filters on the indoor units - are there other filters on the condensers?

Typically not on the outdoor portion but the condenser coil should be cleaned once a year.

Well that definitely has never happened. Any reason I try DIY cleaning and replace/repair the pipe myself? FTR, I have the technical skills of a third grader.

I would probably call someone for a maintenance. That way they could check everything out.

Edit to add: Is the line leaking inside or outside?

 

[Terminalxylem]

Quick question for the AC experts.

I have a Mitsubishi split system in my home, 3 units in total. The pipe leading to the master bedroom condenser outside is leaking water. It’s a slow leak, which only leaks water periodically, accompanied by a sound like pressure is being released. It appears that pressure blew a segment of insulation off the piping, or maybe it just disintegrated after being saturated with water.

I haven’t really maintained the units since they were installed over 15 years ago, but I also haven’t turned them on in months (we typically only use AC a couple months in summer, while we sleep). I live in Hawaii, so the pipes never freeze FWIW.

Thoughts?

Have you ever cleaned out the filters? They typically have washable filters in them.

I’ve cleaned the filters on the indoor units - are there other filters on the condensers?

Typically not on the outdoor portion but the condenser coil should be cleaned once a year.

Well that definitely has never happened. Any reason I try DIY cleaning and replace/repair the pipe myself? FTR, I have the technical skills of a third grader.

I would probably call someone for a maintenance. That way they could check everything out.

Edit to add: Is the line leaking inside or outside?

Outside

 

[ChiefD]

Quick question for the AC experts.

I have a Mitsubishi split system in my home, 3 units in total. The pipe leading to the master bedroom condenser outside is leaking water. It’s a slow leak, which only leaks water periodically, accompanied by a sound like pressure is being released. It appears that pressure blew a segment of insulation off the piping, or maybe it just disintegrated after being saturated with water.

I haven’t really maintained the units since they were installed over 15 years ago, but I also haven’t turned them on in months (we typically only use AC a couple months in summer, while we sleep). I live in Hawaii, so the pipes never freeze FWIW.

Thoughts?

Have you ever cleaned out the filters? They typically have washable filters in them.

I’ve cleaned the filters on the indoor units - are there other filters on the condensers?

Typically not on the outdoor portion but the condenser coil should be cleaned once a year.

Well that definitely has never happened. Any reason I try DIY cleaning and replace/repair the pipe myself? FTR, I have the technical skills of a third grader.

I would probably call someone for a maintenance. That way they could check everything out.

Edit to add: Is the line leaking inside or outside?

Outside

Is the pipe PVC or copper?

 

[The General]

Nothing to add except listen to @ChiefD

And, that last summer was glorious having AC.

 

[Terminalxylem]

Quick question for the AC experts.

I have a Mitsubishi split system in my home, 3 units in total. The pipe leading to the master bedroom condenser outside is leaking water. It’s a slow leak, which only leaks water periodically, accompanied by a sound like pressure is being released. It appears that pressure blew a segment of insulation off the piping, or maybe it just disintegrated after being saturated with water.

I haven’t really maintained the units since they were installed over 15 years ago, but I also haven’t turned them on in months (we typically only use AC a couple months in summer, while we sleep). I live in Hawaii, so the pipes never freeze FWIW.

Thoughts?

Have you ever cleaned out the filters? They typically have washable filters in them.

I’ve cleaned the filters on the indoor units - are there other filters on the condensers?

Typically not on the outdoor portion but the condenser coil should be cleaned once a year.

Well that definitely has never happened. Any reason I try DIY cleaning and replace/repair the pipe myself? FTR, I have the technical skills of a third grader.

I would probably call someone for a maintenance. That way they could check everything out.

Edit to add: Is the line leaking inside or outside?

Outside

Is the pipe PVC or copper?

Copper

 

[ChiefD]

Copper

OK. If it's copper it's probably just condensation from the warm air hitting a cold pipe. Normally that would be your refrigeration line. Especially if it's the area where the pipe insulation is missing. That stuff can corrode over time or a critter may have chewed it off or something.

Now, if your drain line is run using copper pipe you'd have to find out where it's leaking. But it sounds like condensation to me. You can go to Home Depot and get some of that foam pipe insulation and just wrap it around there.

 

[brun]

I'm looking to replace the AC for the in-law above the garage, about 540 sq ft. Current is a Goodman, 1.5 ton about 25 years old. I want to get it done before it fails in the middle of a heat wave in July/August

Got a couple of quotes.
From the same outfit that replaced another Goodman (serving the main house) unit last year, with a Lennox. Their quotes were for 2 Lennox models, 18000 BTU, 13.4 & 15.2 SEER.
From another company, recommended by a guy who used to work for the 1st company (a good friend of my son) . Their quotes were for 3 different units, 2 American Standard 13 SEER and 16 SEER, and 1 Run Tru. 13 SEER.

Lennox quotes are higher for the higher as well as the lower models. Both companies list the same install things, new pad + wiring, duct work, piping, updates as needed etc.

Any comments on brands, or what might represent better value (e.g. dollars for 16 SEER v 15.2 SEER)?
Any thoughts are much appreciated.

 

[ChiefD]

I'm looking to replace the AC for the in-law above the garage, about 540 sq ft. Current is a Goodman, 1.5 ton about 25 years old. I want to get it done before it fails in the middle of a heat wave in July/August

Got a couple of quotes.
From the same outfit that replaced another Goodman (serving the main house) unit last year, with a Lennox. Their quotes were for 2 Lennox models, 18000 BTU, 13.4 & 15.2 SEER.
From another company, recommended by a guy who used to work for the 1st company (a good friend of my son) . Their quotes were for 3 different units, 2 American Standard 13 SEER and 16 SEER, and 1 Run Tru. 13 SEER.

Lennox quotes are higher for the higher as well as the lower models. Both companies list the same install things, new pad + wiring, duct work, piping, updates as needed etc.

Any comments on brands, or what might represent better value (e.g. dollars for 16 SEER v 15.2 SEER)?
Any thoughts are much appreciated.

Both brands are fine. American Standard is the same thing as a Trane. I believe their Run Tru is their cheaper version.

As far as seer rating, it just depends on the cost to go from one to the other. If it's a few hundred bucks go for it. But if it's thousands, save your money.