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Let's talk casino gambling! (1 Viewer)

Raider Nation said:
Any of you using Dan Pronovost's "Speed Count" system? I was reading about it in one of Frank Scoblete's books. It's supposed to be a quicker (hence the name) and easier BJ card-counting system than the Hi-Lo. It's based on tracking small cards and number of completed hands. Maybe it's just me, but when I was rapid-dealing hands on BJ software, it wasn't easier at all to keep track of. The Hi-Lo was much easier (again, for me) to track. Guess that's a good thing, because he says the Hi-Lo is more dependable anyway.

Related question: do I want a 6-deck shoe with poor penetration (Mohegan) or an 8-deck shoe with slightly better penetration (Foxwoods)?

Mohegan stands on S17 and Foxwoods hits a S17, if it matters.
have you looked into REKO counting system? Comparable to Hi-Lo in 8deck shoes but easier to use

 
I just recently started playing poker in the casino. One thing I have noticed at my tables is people will buy in, play 1 or 2 hands then leave for 30 minutes.. Whats the point of this? seems like its happening almost constantly the people are missing blinds

 
I just recently started playing poker in the casino. One thing I have noticed at my tables is people will buy in, play 1 or 2 hands then leave for 30 minutes.. Whats the point of this? seems like its happening almost constantly the people are missing blinds
It depends on the casino and how crowded the poker room is at the time. If it's really crowded, they may just wait to reserve a seat and then go get lunch/dinner etc. I don't find this to be common practice where I play at.

 
Any good craps strategies?
Isolate your bets to the least house edge. Stay out of the middle of the table.

I generally will approach a table with about 50-60x the min bet. Two options I'll play are:

Pass plus 6 & 8:

• Place $5 (or table min) Pass Line

• Place 2-3x odds behind pass line once number is established (more if bankroll allows)

• Place $6 (or appropriate min bet) on 6 & 8

• IF PLAYING AGGRESSIVE : Press 1 unit every time the 6 or 8 hits.

• IF PLAYING CASUAL : Take all payouts on 6 & 8

Pass plus Double/Triple Come:

• Place $5 (or table min) Pass Line

• Place 2-3x odds behind pass line once number is established (more if bankroll allows)

• Place $5 (or table min) on Come for 2nd roll

• Place 2-3x odds on number established with Come roll.

• Repeat 2-3x... then just let bets ride.

In either event you're averaging your house edge down to the 1% or lower range. The top option with "aggressive" (press 1 unit with each hit) is going to have wilder swings in all directions because you're getting all your money out there quickly and multiple hits will escalate more.

 
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Any good craps strategies?
Isolate your bets to the least house edge. Stay out of the middle of the table.

I generally will approach a table with about 45-60x the min bet. Two options I'll play are:

Pass plus 6 & 8:

Place $5 (or table min) Pass Line

Place 2-3x odds behind pass line once number is established (more if bankroll allows)

Place $6 (or appropriate min bet) on 6 & 8

IF PLAYING AGGRESSIVE : Press 1 unit every time the 6 or 8 hits.

IF PLAYING CASUAL : Take all payouts on 6 & 8

Pass plus Double/Triple Come:

Place $5 (or table min) Pass Line

Place 2-3x odds behind pass line once number is established (more if bankroll allows)

Place $5 (or table min) on Come for 2nd roll

Place 2-3x odds on number established with Come roll.

Repeat 2-3x... then just let bets ride.

In either event you're averaging your house edge down to the 1% or lower range. The top option with "aggressive" (press 1 unit with each hit) is going to have wilder swings in all directions because you're getting all your money out there quickly and multiple hits will escalate more.
Thanks...this is what I was looking for.

 
Any good craps strategies?
Isolate your bets to the least house edge. Stay out of the middle of the table.

I generally will approach a table with about 50-60x the min bet. Two options I'll play are:

Pass plus 6 & 8:

• Place $5 (or table min) Pass Line

• Place 2-3x odds behind pass line once number is established (more if bankroll allows)

• Place $6 (or appropriate min bet) on 6 & 8

• IF PLAYING AGGRESSIVE : Press 1 unit every time the 6 or 8 hits.

• IF PLAYING CASUAL : Take all payouts on 6 & 8

Pass plus Double/Triple Come:

• Place $5 (or table min) Pass Line

• Place 2-3x odds behind pass line once number is established (more if bankroll allows)

• Place $5 (or table min) on Come for 2nd roll

• Place 2-3x odds on number established with Come roll.

• Repeat 2-3x... then just let bets ride.

In either event you're averaging your house edge down to the 1% or lower range. The top option with "aggressive" (press 1 unit with each hit) is going to have wilder swings in all directions because you're getting all your money out there quickly and multiple hits will escalate more.
You forgot the $2 yo.

 
Any of you using Dan Pronovost's "Speed Count" system? I was reading about it in one of Frank Scoblete's books. It's supposed to be a quicker (hence the name) and easier BJ card-counting system than the Hi-Lo. It's based on tracking small cards and number of completed hands. Maybe it's just me, but when I was rapid-dealing hands on BJ software, it wasn't easier at all to keep track of. The Hi-Lo was much easier (again, for me) to track. Guess that's a good thing, because he says the Hi-Lo is more dependable anyway.

Related question: do I want a 6-deck shoe with poor penetration (Mohegan) or an 8-deck shoe with slightly better penetration (Foxwoods)?

Mohegan stands on S17 and Foxwoods hits a S17, if it matters.
have you looked into REKO counting system? Comparable to Hi-Lo in 8deck shoes but easier to use
Haven't gotten to it yet. I'm reading about every current system to see which one best suits my ridiculously short attention span. Just bought about 5 or 6 books from Amazon and eBay. The one I just finished tonight was on the K-O (knockout) system. Very easy level-1 system. Similar to the Hi-Lo, only the 7 has a value of +1 instead of zero.

The "knockout" refers to a way of counting rapidly. Instead of counting every card which comes out, you train yourself to look at them in clumps. If you see a K and a J, and the person on the next hand has a 2 and a 4, those cancel each other out. Quicker way of keeping the count. If you are playing six decks, the initial running count is 20 (# of decks x4, -4). When the "key count" gets to -4, there are enough high cards remaining in the shoe to start pressing your bets. With eight decks, the IRC is 28 (# of decks x4, -4). When the "key count" gets to -6, there are enough high cards remaining in the shoe to start pressing your bets.

They claim that penetration level isn't as important with this system. I've been practicing a bit with rapid-fire dealing, and it's not terribly difficult to keep the count. When I put it into action for real, I'll make sure I sit at a crowded table and only play $10/hand or so until I'm confident in what I'm doing. Counting at home with no distractions is one thing; counting at the casino with noise, other players, the dealer, the floor person, cocktail waitresses, etc., is another matter entirely.

 
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They recommend a 1-5 spread (Ex: $10 to $50) if you want to stay under the radar, and certainly not more than 10x your minimum bet. For the guys who are successful for any period of time betting monster spreads when the count is favorable, it's just a matter of time before they are backed off and barred/banned. Sometimes you don't even need to win the big bets for that to happen.

Barred = "You are too good for us, sir. We no longer want your blackjack action. You're welcome to enjoy any of our other games."

Banned = You are never to set foot on their property again.

 
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BTW, I just happened to read the answer to that very question in the book. Mark Davis is the one who you want to hear from about this stuff. He's been in the casino trenches for real.

 
Any of you using Dan Pronovost's "Speed Count" system? I was reading about it in one of Frank Scoblete's books. It's supposed to be a quicker (hence the name) and easier BJ card-counting system than the Hi-Lo. It's based on tracking small cards and number of completed hands. Maybe it's just me, but when I was rapid-dealing hands on BJ software, it wasn't easier at all to keep track of. The Hi-Lo was much easier (again, for me) to track. Guess that's a good thing, because he says the Hi-Lo is more dependable anyway.

Related question: do I want a 6-deck shoe with poor penetration (Mohegan) or an 8-deck shoe with slightly better penetration (Foxwoods)?

Mohegan stands on S17 and Foxwoods hits a S17, if it matters.
have you looked into REKO counting system? Comparable to Hi-Lo in 8deck shoes but easier to use
Haven't gotten to it yet. I'm reading about every current system to see which one best suits my ridiculously short attention span. Just bought about 5 or 6 books from Amazon and eBay. The one I just finished tonight was on the K-O (knockout) system. Very easy level-1 system. Similar to the Hi-Lo, only the 7 has a value of +1 instead of zero.

The "knockout" refers to a way of counting rapidly. Instead of counting every card which comes out, you train yourself to look at them in clumps. If you see a K and a J, and the person on the next hand has a 2 and a 4, those cancel each other out. Quicker way of keeping the count. If you are playing six decks, the initial running count is 20 (# of decks x4, -4). When the "key count" gets to -4, there are enough high cards remaining in the shoe to start pressing your bets. With eight decks, the IRC is 28 (# of decks x4, -4). When the "key count" gets to -6, there are enough high cards remaining in the shoe to start pressing your bets.

They claim that penetration level isn't as important with this system. I've been practicing a bit with rapid-fire dealing, and it's not terribly difficult to keep the count. When I put it into action for real, I'll make sure I sit at a crowded table and only play $10/hand or so until I'm confident in what I'm doing. Counting at home with no distractions is one thing; counting at the casino with noise, other players, the dealer, the floor person, cocktail waitresses, etc., is another matter entirely.
reKO is another version of KO . So im right there with you

 

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