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Nomad : Nicaragua + Costa Rica > 3/2 UPDATE : Ometepe, Nica military, and beachfront in San Juan Del Sur (1 Viewer)

Dez89 said:
Did I miss the phone story earlier? 


Ah, it was posted years ago in some other thread here, not this one.  

My friend Andy (Canadian ex-pat) used to run a boxing gym in Granada and helped train fighters.  Mayorga would come into the gym, and they became friends.  September of 2013, Andy invited some of us over to his house to watch a huge boxing match on PPV (can't remember who).  This was around the time people were doing a bunch of shot videos in GMTAN thread here and others.  Mayorga even did a shot video for GMTAN.   That's Julio with him at the beginning.

At some point in the evening, I got up to use the bathroom and realized my phone was missing.  A few of us were looking around for it when we heard a bunch of shouting outside.  It turned out Andy realized almost immediately what had happened, and had gone out to find Mayorga about to get in a cab.  Both he and Julio were out there screaming at Mayorga to give it back, while Mayorga was denying he had it.  It's all funny now, but at the time actually was terrifying, because Mayorga is seriously an insane person and I thought he could kill one or both of my friends.  Then Marlon, who is another Nica friend and an absolutely tiny person, went out too, but Marlon is a lawyer and was there just to talk everyone down, not to fight.  Eventually Mayorga tossed the phone to Andy and left.  

To this day, if I leave the table at a restaurant or bar, and I don't want to take my purse or whatever I have with me, I turn to Mr. krista and just say, "Mayorga," which he understands to mean, "watch my stuff."  :lol:  

 
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Julio took me up in one of those bell towers (not sure if it's the same you are visiting) and the view was stunning. I had posted pictures in the old GMTAN thread, but I think it's been nuked.
Yep! Nice timing! We literally just got back for Cathdral Iglesia next to our house 😂

You aren't kidding, incredible views. We were just about at the top when they started ringing the bells

 
Holy #### today was wild.... will just cut/paste my FB post to save time because I'm wiped and we have a very early morning for an Ometepe trip.

PHOTOS: https://imgur.com/a/RVWA3ce

--

So so many things to unpack from today but I'll start with this... Today we learned that much of the beautiful pottery work for sale around Granada is made in a very humble little town called San Juan de Oriente. 

Many families have pottery wheels and kilns to make plates, bowls, vases, etc. A bowl that may be $10 in town will be sold for $30 or more in other markets. 

Julio introduced us to one family who makes them. They gave us an excellent demonstration, then let 'my GF have a try at the wheel. 

Apparently many of these take over 20 days from start to finish 😳 The level of detail and colors (all by hand) are insane.

A few of the things we picked up for the house, their setup, and  a photo of rhe house Parrot that hangs out. 😂 

We are SO tired but so happy. Julio was an incredible guide, and our driver Oscar expertly navigated some crazy roads. We had so much fun, and learned a ton! 

Thank you Julio! You are amazing. 

Today we visited: 

- San Juan de Oriente 

- Catarina (beautiful views of Laguna de Apoyo)

- Mercado de Masaya (an open air market that is a MASSIVE labyrinth of shops selljng anything you can possibly imagine. When I say massive, I mean MASSIVE. Even Julio got turned around a bit.

- Another Market where we purchased some paintings and had a great typical lunch. 

- Forteleza de Coyote (An old fort turned brutal prison under Somoza dictatorship. That's for another post... an awesome but sad slice of Nicaraguan history) 

- Volcan Masaya - a national park where you can observe an active volcanic caldera from very close. More details on this as well. 

For now we're crashing... VERY early morning to go to Ometepe Island tomorrow. Today we found out Julio's son Santiago will get to join us and see where their family origjnated! Very glad to get to hang out with him tomorrow as well. 

But now, we sleep.

 
Holy #### today was wild.... will just cut/paste my FB post to save time because I'm wiped and we have a very early morning for an Ometepe trip.

PHOTOS: https://imgur.com/a/RVWA3ce

--

So so many things to unpack from today but I'll start with this... Today we learned that much of the beautiful pottery work for sale around Granada is made in a very humble little town called San Juan de Oriente. 

Many families have pottery wheels and kilns to make plates, bowls, vases, etc. A bowl that may be $10 in town will be sold for $30 or more in other markets. 

Julio introduced us to one family who makes them. They gave us an excellent demonstration, then let 'my GF have a try at the wheel. 

Apparently many of these take over 20 days from start to finish 😳 The level of detail and colors (all by hand) are insane.

A few of the things we picked up for the house, their setup, and  a photo of rhe house Parrot that hangs out. 😂 

We are SO tired but so happy. Julio was an incredible guide, and our driver Oscar expertly navigated some crazy roads. We had so much fun, and learned a ton! 

Thank you Julio! You are amazing. 

Today we visited: 

- San Juan de Oriente 

- Catarina (beautiful views of Laguna de Apoyo)

- Mercado de Masaya (an open air market that is a MASSIVE labyrinth of shops selljng anything you can possibly imagine. When I say massive, I mean MASSIVE. Even Julio got turned around a bit.

- Another Market where we purchased some paintings and had a great typical lunch. 

- Forteleza de Coyote (An old fort turned brutal prison under Somoza dictatorship. That's for another post... an awesome but sad slice of Nicaraguan history) 

- Volcan Masaya - a national park where you can observe an active volcanic caldera from very close. More details on this as well. 

For now we're crashing... VERY early morning to go to Ometepe Island tomorrow. Today we found out Julio's son Santiago will get to join us and see where their family origjnated! Very glad to get to hang out with him tomorrow as well. 

But now, we sleep.


Oh, I LOVE the painting you bought!  

And yeah, I still have several pieces of pottery from San Juan de Oriente.  It's amazing stuff.  That serving platter you posted a pic of = :heart:   I hope you got that one!  If not please have Julio send to me.  :lol:  

As many times as I've been to the town, I never got to work the pottery.  That is so cool!  Your girlfriend always looks like she's having a blast.

 
New images! 
 

https://imgur.com/a/Z9yPVEf

Cliff notes: 

Saturday we went to Ometepe for a day. 2hr drive south, 1 hour ferry, day on the island, then back. 

Julio asked if his son Santi could come as he's only been once when he was 5 and doesn't remember it. Of course! We also paid for his way and our driver Oscar who hadn't been in a while (ever?).

Ometepe is as advertised. GORGEOUS! Had two amazing meals.... hit Punto de Jesus y Maria (long beach peninsula). We hit Charco Verde nature preserve for some of the most beautiful spots we've seen.. tons of wildlife including two large troops of howler monkeys just overhead. Also, A 3'  ribbon snake in a tree that Julio and Oscar were terrified of. When I grabbed it by the tail they flipped out 😂. The coin museum was a cool stop for the history of Nica currency. Ferries were fun too. Such a beautiful place. 

Got back to Granada, had dinner and crashed. 

Sunday we woke up, packed, and had Julio picking us up at 12:30. We heard BEAUTIFUL chorus of voices at the cathedral next door and went to check it out. Video didn't upload for some reason. Also noticed tons of homeless or very down on their luck folks around the church so we went back to the vigoron stand and bought 7 servings ($14 / 500 Cordoba). When I was paying we ran into Julio and Santi. He sent Santi with us as he had some business to attend to... so we went and handed out the food to folks who needed it. The reactions were amazing.
 

The hungry here are so much more appreciative than the homeless in the states it seems. It wasn't much but we wanted to do something. I don't know that we've made it home with leftovers yet. Always someone on the way home who needs it more than us.

Julio gave us these really cool custom engraved maracas (why he sent us away). Love them. He's too kind. We settled up with a tip ($333) for the week, and he seemed very appreciative. Swung by his house one last time to say bye to his family then off to SJDS. 

Stopped at Las Colinas restaurant on the way out.. DAMN It was good. Honestly the steak beat El Zaguan IMO. 

Got stopped by Military police on the way into SJDS, I was grilled over my seatbelt (lap belt on, shoulder straps behind me) and Julio had to make up a story about my shoulder being hurt. 😂

Checked into the apartment. It's much more "normal" but perfect. Spacious. Amazing location mid-beach. Two bedrooms, two baths, two balconies directly overlook the beach with front and center sunsets. ~$900 for 2 weeks. 

This town is cool. Very different. More gringos but still feels like Nicaragua.... unlike Tamarindo (CR), which was overrun with gringos, mostly English, and all dollars. 

Endless beach front dining options. Very good food. Still solid prices. Worked from a beachfront bar yesterday... shrimp ceviche plus 6 bottles of Toña was ~500 Cordoba /  $15. 

Tuani's for dinner was great. $1 Toña bottles. Nice VIP lounge upstairs. Cool view of the town. 

Hit a gringo bar (Republika) on the way home. Owned by a 30 surfer dude named Bobby. Uk native, has lived for a few years each in Australia, New Zealand, and Ibiza. Settled in here. Chatted for a bit about travel, drugs, and random ####.

Got an idea from him to rent a Polaris Side by Side UTV and head down the coast to hit a few beaches. You can drive on the beaches here so would be fun to bomb down them in the SXS. He said watch out for wet sand though... will roll and windshields are $1400 😂.  Wanted to hit Ostional beach (turtle nesting) anyway for the GF. Too late in the season but we may get lucky. 

This place is great. We miss Casa Blanca, Julio, and Granada.... but this place is cool in its own right. Very glad we did both. Could have done 2 week / 1 week split either way and would have been cool... but doing both was the right call. Thanks to all who suggested! 
 

 
@[icon]That poke bowl looks amazing.  And how did you like the Flor de Cana 25?
The Poke was indeed legit! 

The FdC 25yr rum is very good. Oak balanced out some Of the over-sweetness I don't love about rum. Is it worth the price... eh... I dunno. 

Server said he preferred the 21yr. I'll try that too 

 
The FdC 25yr rum is very good. Oak balanced out some Of the over-sweetness I don't love about rum. Is it worth the price... eh... I dunno. 

Server said he preferred the 21yr. I'll try that too


When you come to Colombia there are two options: Ron Medellin and Ron Caldas.  I'm sure there are plenty more but those are the two most popular that you'll have to try.

 
When you come to Colombia there are two options: Ron Medellin and Ron Caldas.  I'm sure there are plenty more but those are the two most popular that you'll have to try.


Thanks GB! I'll give em all a shot! :)  

No offense, but that apartment is a dump.😉

J/k compared to the head of the cartel mansion you were staying in. Looks amazing! Keep the updates coming.


:lol:  right?! Apartment is a big change for sure but the location and views are awesome. We certainly can't afford that mansion for the duration of this trip. That said we've got a pretty nice 2 story apartment in Playa samara that should be pretty nice too. Certainly not the mansion, but I think my folks will be comfortable. 

 
If this apartment has data caps for their internet... I'm straight up fist ####### it 😂

Working on huge outdoor menu boards for a freelance restaurant client.... 

Currently uploading 12 .PSD source files to DropBox that run about 1.5GB each.... for the second time this week 😂 

 
Getting the Itch to get out of dodge again....

We were exploring southeast asia but unfortunately the time zone shift would make working remotely there pretty challenging without procuring special permission from our bosses. Given the large number of meetings and the GF's customer-facing role... that's not in the cards at this time.

That got me to looking into other areas in this hemisphere. We LOVED Playa Samara, Costa Rica, but the GF is more inclined to explore other areas. I happened upon Outsite.co via r/DigitalNomads... and happened looked at their digital nomad-centered lodging options in Latin America. They currently have spots in Costa Rica, Mexico, and.... Nicaragua.

Did a bit of digging into San Juan Del Sur, NIcaragua and thus far am impressed.

It's a bit north from Samara on the same Pacific Coast. Samara is NW Costa Rica, SJDS is SW Nicaragua.

Small beach town inside a tranquil Bay... lots of English speakers.... very affordable.... Central Time Zone.... Seemingly very safe aside from the usual petty crime stuff. Water supposedly safe, but more risky than Costa Rica. Probably would stick to filtered / bottled for the most part. USD Accepted but obviously local currency (35 Cordoba = 1USD) is preferred.

Power can be an issue with outages (moreso than guanacaste costa rica), but I'm being told they built a power station on the edge of town that has significantly stabilized power. Cell coverage good. Solid reasonably-fast internet available.

Considering 2-3 weeks for this jaunt... but we shall see. Can find spacious, clean beachfront 2BR apartments (heart of town, 100% walkable) for ~$1000 for 2 weeks, or luxurious modern casas with infinity pools overlooking the Pacific (need a ATV/Car) for ~$2000 for 2 weeks.

Anyone been?
In Samara now for a few days and thought of this thread. Lovely place, very chill, beautiful beach. Costa Rica is one of my favorite places on earth, and Samara is absolutely additive to the experience. Thx icon for all that you shared about your time here.
 
Getting the Itch to get out of dodge again....

We were exploring southeast asia but unfortunately the time zone shift would make working remotely there pretty challenging without procuring special permission from our bosses. Given the large number of meetings and the GF's customer-facing role... that's not in the cards at this time.

That got me to looking into other areas in this hemisphere. We LOVED Playa Samara, Costa Rica, but the GF is more inclined to explore other areas. I happened upon Outsite.co via r/DigitalNomads... and happened looked at their digital nomad-centered lodging options in Latin America. They currently have spots in Costa Rica, Mexico, and.... Nicaragua.

Did a bit of digging into San Juan Del Sur, NIcaragua and thus far am impressed.

It's a bit north from Samara on the same Pacific Coast. Samara is NW Costa Rica, SJDS is SW Nicaragua.

Small beach town inside a tranquil Bay... lots of English speakers.... very affordable.... Central Time Zone.... Seemingly very safe aside from the usual petty crime stuff. Water supposedly safe, but more risky than Costa Rica. Probably would stick to filtered / bottled for the most part. USD Accepted but obviously local currency (35 Cordoba = 1USD) is preferred.

Power can be an issue with outages (moreso than guanacaste costa rica), but I'm being told they built a power station on the edge of town that has significantly stabilized power. Cell coverage good. Solid reasonably-fast internet available.

Considering 2-3 weeks for this jaunt... but we shall see. Can find spacious, clean beachfront 2BR apartments (heart of town, 100% walkable) for ~$1000 for 2 weeks, or luxurious modern casas with infinity pools overlooking the Pacific (need a ATV/Car) for ~$2000 for 2 weeks.

Anyone been?
In Samara now for a few days and thought of this thread. Lovely place, very chill, beautiful beach. Costa Rica is one of my favorite places on earth, and Samara is absolutely additive to the experience. Thx icon for all that you shared about your time here.
Thanks for the kind words. I miss that place terribly. If you need anything while there please let me know.

Do not miss:
Locanda (heaven)
Ma Ma Gui
El Ancla (chifrijo on Thursday and Sunday)

Saturday is farmers market (Féria) that is awesome.

Where are you guys staying?
 
Just booked a week in CR. 3 nights in Arenal, 3 nights in Tamarindo, and one night in SJ. We’re going in mid-September. Can’t wait!
 
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Just booked a week in CR. 3 nights in Arenal, 3 nights in Tamarindo, and one night in SJ. We’re going in mid-September. Can’t wait!
Loved Tamarindo, 3 decades ago. It's overrun now, from what I hear, might want to reconsider. Maybe find a more secluded beach town, imo.
 
Just booked a week in CR. 3 nights in Arenal, 3 nights in Tamarindo, and one night in SJ. We’re going in mid-September. Can’t wait!
Loved Tamarindo, 3 decades ago. It's overrun now, from what I hear, might want to reconsider. Maybe find a more secluded beach town, imo.
I’ve got a rental car, so we’ll be able to get away when we want. We bought a package, so our options were limited.
 
We did 11 days in the South West Pacific area, between Dominical and Uvita. I would go back tomorrow. Such and amazing place.
 
We did 11 days in the South West Pacific area, between Dominical and Uvita. I would go back tomorrow. Such and amazing place.

LOVE Dominical, great surf and a low-key town. But that was in the 90's, I'm sure it's changed so much by now.

The "kid" that owned the popular bar there was from the Firestone family. He was selling it -- or willing to sell it is a better way of saying it -- for @ 700K. People laughed at that. Not anymore.

Dude probably owns half the town by now.....

Pavones is where I always wanted to go but never got the green light. On all 3 trips. There were just dirt roads back then and unless there was a good/big swell coming, not worth the trek.
 
We did 11 days in the South West Pacific area, between Dominical and Uvita. I would go back tomorrow. Such and amazing place.

LOVE Dominical, great surf and a low-key town. But that was in the 90's, I'm sure it's changed so much by now.

The "kid" that owned the popular bar there was from the Firestone family. He was selling it -- or willing to sell it is a better way of saying it -- for @ 700K. People laughed at that. Not anymore.

Dude probably owns half the town by now.....

Pavones is where I always wanted to go but never got the green light. On all 3 trips. There were just dirt roads back then and unless there was a good/big swell coming, not worth the trek.
Still super low-key and chill still, more so Dominical than Uvita, but both were very low-key.
 

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