Give it some time. In another week the carbonation will be there. The body may develop in time as well. Good things come to those who wait.
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***OFFICIAL*** Footballguys homebrew thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter culdeus
- Start date
Better do what Orcinus would do and pour all of them in the garden.I had ONE chilling ....Pretty agressive pour yielded a little head. I really like the smell to it, but the body isn't there. Mostly malty with very little hops.
The Gator
Footballguy
THanks for the help. <_<
The Gator
Footballguy
Now ay man. This taste good, just no mouthfeell, could have potential.
culdeus
Footballguy
If you were so inclined you could dry hop a 1/2 oz or so.THanks for the help.
The Gator
Footballguy
I have 1oz left from my brown ale that i am going to use to dry hop my Big ### Ale.If you were so inclined you could dry hop a 1/2 oz or so.THanks for the help.
The Gator
Footballguy
Skylord
Footballguy
Nope. It was a specific company that does tiered all grain systems
The Gator
Footballguy
Skylord
Footballguy
Yeah, except it was super high end.
The Gator
Footballguy
Kilgore Trout
Footballguy
Sorry, I didn't see this earlier...It may start bubbling again. After racking it to a secondary fermenter (assuming this is what you did), it is not uncommon to stir up some of the sleeping yeast and they become active again. It'll probably last a day or so, and then things will settle down again. What was the gravity prior to transferring it to secondary?Justed racked my Big ### Ale.Is it supposed to start bubbling again?
The Gator
Footballguy
Yeah, it settled down about a day later. Was nothing major, just a little foam. I didn't take a gravity reading during the transfer. It was 64 when i pitched. Are you supposed to take one when racking?Sorry, I didn't see this earlier...It may start bubbling again. After racking it to a secondary fermenter (assuming this is what you did), it is not uncommon to stir up some of the sleeping yeast and they become active again. It'll probably last a day or so, and then things will settle down again. What was the gravity prior to transferring it to secondary?Justed racked my Big ### Ale.Is it supposed to start bubbling again?
culdeus
Footballguy
Yeah, you kinduv are. you got one of those extractors?Yeah, it settled down about a day later. Was nothing major, just a little foam. I didn't take a gravity reading during the transfer. It was 64 when i pitched. Are you supposed to take one when racking?Sorry, I didn't see this earlier...It may start bubbling again. After racking it to a secondary fermenter (assuming this is what you did), it is not uncommon to stir up some of the sleeping yeast and they become active again. It'll probably last a day or so, and then things will settle down again. What was the gravity prior to transferring it to secondary?Justed racked my Big ### Ale.Is it supposed to start bubbling again?
The Gator
Footballguy
The book I read said to take one before bottling. What does taking one before racking to the secondary do?Yeah, you kinduv are. you got one of those extractors?Yeah, it settled down about a day later. Was nothing major, just a little foam. I didn't take a gravity reading during the transfer. It was 64 when i pitched. Are you supposed to take one when racking?Sorry, I didn't see this earlier...It may start bubbling again. After racking it to a secondary fermenter (assuming this is what you did), it is not uncommon to stir up some of the sleeping yeast and they become active again. It'll probably last a day or so, and then things will settle down again. What was the gravity prior to transferring it to secondary?Justed racked my Big ### Ale.
culdeus
Footballguy
Well, it's pretty much for reference only. That way if you make that batch again you can tell how well your yeast attenuated from batch to batch and can adopt better practices...The book I read said to take one before bottling. What does taking one before racking to the secondary do?Yeah, you kinduv are. you got one of those extractors?Yeah, it settled down about a day later. Was nothing major, just a little foam. I didn't take a gravity reading during the transfer. It was 64 when i pitched. Are you supposed to take one when racking?Sorry, I didn't see this earlier...It may start bubbling again. After racking it to a secondary fermenter (assuming this is what you did), it is not uncommon to stir up some of the sleeping yeast and they become active again. It'll probably last a day or so, and then things will settle down again. What was the gravity prior to transferring it to secondary?Justed racked my Big ### Ale.Is it supposed to start bubbling again?
The Gator
Footballguy
Well, it's pretty much for reference only. That way if you make that batch again you can tell how well your yeast attenuated from batch to batch and can adopt better practices...The book I read said to take one before bottling. What does taking one before racking to the secondary do?Yeah, you kinduv are. you got one of those extractors?Yeah, it settled down about a day later. Was nothing major, just a little foam. I didn't take a gravity reading during the transfer. It was 64 when i pitched. Are you supposed to take one when racking?Sorry, I didn't see this earlier...It may start bubbling again. After racking it to a secondary fermenter (assuming this is what you did), it is not uncommon to stir up some of the sleeping yeast and they become active again. It'll probably last a day or so, and then things will settle down again. What was the gravity prior to transferring it to secondary?Justed racked my Big ### Ale.Is it supposed to start bubbling again?
Good to know, thanks.For me, it tells me that primary fermentation is done, and it's time for things to start settling out.Here's what I do...The Gator said:Well, it's pretty much for reference only. That way if you make that batch again you can tell how well your yeast attenuated from batch to batch and can adopt better practices...The book I read said to take one before bottling. What does taking one before racking to the secondary do?Yeah, you kinduv are. you got one of those extractors?Yeah, it settled down about a day later. Was nothing major, just a little foam. I didn't take a gravity reading during the transfer. It was 64 when i pitched. Are you supposed to take one when racking?Sorry, I didn't see this earlier...It may start bubbling again. After racking it to a secondary fermenter (assuming this is what you did), it is not uncommon to stir up some of the sleeping yeast and they become active again. It'll probably last a day or so, and then things will settle down again. What was the gravity prior to transferring it to secondary?Justed racked my Big ### Ale.
Is it supposed to start bubbling again?
Good to know, thanks.
Take a reading prior to pitching the yeast (right before primary fermentation)
Take a reading (while in primary) after 5 to 7 days (primary should be done, or close to it, meaning that you should be close to your final gravity)
If you are close to your final gravity, transfer it to secondary. If not close to final gravity, give it another day or two and check again.
Let it sit in secondary for as long as you can stand it (at least a week Gator.) The longer it sits in secondary the clearer the final product will be (if it is a lighter color beer.) The longer it sits in secondary, the more "stuff" drops out of suspension, the better your beer will be.
Take one last reading right before adding the priming sugar (true final gravity) and note it.
Of course, that's just me. I've got a thief which fits into my carboy and draws out enough liquid to take a reading (ok... two or three draws gets enough) At most, I get about a half a pint each time to measure (and taste) each time I take a sample. Not enough to consider it a waste of time or beer.
And just to add to all of this... if you don't know if fermentation is actually done, and go straight to the bottle (with no secondary), you could have bottle bombs on your hands. Bottle bombs happen when you have too much sugar in your "finished beer" and you add more sugar (priming sugar) to the beer and then bottle. The yeast, which will feast on the existing sugar, and over do it on the priming sugar, will produce enough CO2 in the bottle, which is capped, that the bottles will start to explode on their own, while you are waiting for them to carbonate. While it sounds like it would be funny, it is quite dangerous, as you could be in the room when a bottle goes off and be hit with shards of glass.
Thanks. You'd think I did this all the time. The last beer I made was last Memorial Day (2006). I've got three beer kits screaming for attention from me and no time to give them right now. All this talk about making beers is starting to make me pine for making beers again. I gotta clear my schedule soon.Nice work, Sclaffer!
coldchill
Footballguy
I've lost one bottle in 10+ years of brewing, but I vividly remember my dad blowing up about a case of ginger ale when I was a kid. And they were in those heavy returnable coke bottles. Go to your local beer store and round up a couple of boxes from a case and then use six pack carriers to hold the bottles. That way if a bottle blows it is at least somewhat comtained.And just to add to all of this... if you don't know if fermentation is actually done, and go straight to the bottle (with no secondary), you could have bottle bombs on your hands. Bottle bombs happen when you have too much sugar in your "finished beer" and you add more sugar (priming sugar) to the beer and then bottle. The yeast, which will feast on the existing sugar, and over do it on the priming sugar, will produce enough CO2 in the bottle, which is capped, that the bottles will start to explode on their own, while you are waiting for them to carbonate. While it sounds like it would be funny, it is quite dangerous, as you could be in the room when a bottle goes off and be hit with shards of glass.
orcinus
Footballguy
For my first couple batches, I placed my six-pack containers in plastic bags and then put the bagged packs in a rubbermaid storage container.
Hard to believe I'd be paranoid about anything, right?
Using the 1-2-3 procedure, I should be immune from this on most batches as long as I'm getting good primary activity, right?
Hard to believe I'd be paranoid about anything, right?
Using the 1-2-3 procedure, I should be immune from this on most batches as long as I'm getting good primary activity, right?
I had a few Grolsh bottles crack under pressure. They didn't explode, but they cracked enough that the beer seeped out of them. I store all my filled bottles in old 14x11 green bar computer paper boxes (I did say old, didn't I?) I also use the boxes that copy paper comes in. Most will hold a case of beers in six pack carriers with no problems.I've lost one bottle in 10+ years of brewing, but I vividly remember my dad blowing up about a case of ginger ale when I was a kid. And they were in those heavy returnable coke bottles. Go to your local beer store and round up a couple of boxes from a case and then use six pack carriers to hold the bottles. That way if a bottle blows it is at least somewhat comtained.And just to add to all of this... if you don't know if fermentation is actually done, and go straight to the bottle (with no secondary), you could have bottle bombs on your hands. Bottle bombs happen when you have too much sugar in your "finished beer" and you add more sugar (priming sugar) to the beer and then bottle. The yeast, which will feast on the existing sugar, and over do it on the priming sugar, will produce enough CO2 in the bottle, which is capped, that the bottles will start to explode on their own, while you are waiting for them to carbonate. While it sounds like it would be funny, it is quite dangerous, as you could be in the room when a bottle goes off and be hit with shards of glass.If you don't have a target final gravity or you missed the original gravity you can tell if fermentation is done by taking readings a day or two apart. If the gravity doesn't change it is finished.
You should be ok for the most part. On the bigger beers (higher starting gravity), you might want to go 1.5 or 2 weeks in primary, two to three weeks in secondary, and 3 weeks or longer in the bottle. The reason being that it usually takes those beers to come into their own over time, rather than the 1-2-3 method.For what it's worth, I used the 1-2-3 method for years before I started (learned, actually) to take the gravity readings.Taking the readings just gives you confirmation that fermentation has actually finished and you are good to go.For my first couple batches, I placed my six-pack containers in plastic bags and then put the bagged packs in a rubbermaid storage container.Hard to believe I'd be paranoid about anything, right?
I gotta take some time here to brag a little bit. Bare with me...
I share my beers with my friends, who, for the most part are MBC drinkers (MillerBudCoors). I've turned them on to better tasting beers through my homebrewing. Of course, none of them has started brewing their own, they just sample mine. They like what I've given them, but I've never given my beers to anyone who "knows" what good beer is supposed to taste like, like another homebrewer would.
I made my first true lagered Oktoberfest beer last Memorial Day. When it was ready, I tasted it and liked it. I gave some to a MBC friend, and he liked it too. One of the guys I work with is a homebrewer (he's an all grainer... I'm an extract/specialty grains brewer.) So, I asked him if he would be interested in tasting my beer, as I would trust his taste more than my own (as I am a little more than biased.)
He gave me some great comments on my beer, which made me feel good. A day or so after, we were at a bar together and was drinking a Sam Adams Oktoberfest (on tap), and we both commented that we liked mine better than the SA.
Guess I did good on my first lager.
I've got a Schwarzbier (Black Lager), Spiced Ale, and Rauchbier (Smoke Beer) to make. Made the Black Lager before, but used an Ale yeast, as I didn't have the equipment to make a lager (no fridge.) Now that I have a fridge, and a temp controller, I can make lagers to my hearts content.
I share my beers with my friends, who, for the most part are MBC drinkers (MillerBudCoors). I've turned them on to better tasting beers through my homebrewing. Of course, none of them has started brewing their own, they just sample mine. They like what I've given them, but I've never given my beers to anyone who "knows" what good beer is supposed to taste like, like another homebrewer would.
I made my first true lagered Oktoberfest beer last Memorial Day. When it was ready, I tasted it and liked it. I gave some to a MBC friend, and he liked it too. One of the guys I work with is a homebrewer (he's an all grainer... I'm an extract/specialty grains brewer.) So, I asked him if he would be interested in tasting my beer, as I would trust his taste more than my own (as I am a little more than biased.)
He gave me some great comments on my beer, which made me feel good. A day or so after, we were at a bar together and was drinking a Sam Adams Oktoberfest (on tap), and we both commented that we liked mine better than the SA.
Guess I did good on my first lager.
I've got a Schwarzbier (Black Lager), Spiced Ale, and Rauchbier (Smoke Beer) to make. Made the Black Lager before, but used an Ale yeast, as I didn't have the equipment to make a lager (no fridge.) Now that I have a fridge, and a temp controller, I can make lagers to my hearts content.
The Gator
Footballguy
/note to self/
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For the most part, this will work. Sometimes, though, even on non-big beers, fermentation can get "stuck" for one reason or another. It could be the temp of fermentation, not enough aeration, etc. This could cause the gravity to not be what it should.If fermentation doesn't complete normally, your beer could turn out too sweet tasting (bottle bombs are another possible side affect.) Just another reason to take those readings.
The Gator
Footballguy
It's ####ed, throw it in the garden.
culdeus
Footballguy
Had my first gusher last night. It was the very last of my second round brew (still by FAR my best) Poured a little and carbonation was high so set out on counter for a bit. Turned my back and it was gushing everywhere. Poured in two glasses to save the rest. Lost 4oz or so I figure.
coldchill
Footballguy
I made some rootbeer once and every single bottle was severely over-carbonated. No bottle bombs though.
Organized Chaos
Footballguy
The extract recipe from BYO - April 06 (look to be same recipe) suggestsSteep 1.5 lbs 2 row pale malt and 6.4 ounces of Thomas Fawcett amber maltSteep at 152 degrees 2.25 quarts of water for 45 minutesRinse grains with 1qt 170 degree water, add water to "grain tea"Stir in 4lbs Muntons light DME and bring to boilAt 15 minutes left in boil , turn off heat and add 2lbs Munton light LME and Irish Mossresume heating once LME is dissolvedSame hop schedule as above.
coldchill
Footballguy
I think the conversion is 1lb of base malt = .75lbs of liquid malt extract and for this recipe I'd just use the pale liquid malt extract and minimash the amber malt.9.75 lbs pale liquid malt extract
coldchill
Footballguy
partial mashing is another option. Although this looks to come up short of the original grain bill. (1.5lbs 2 row + 6lbs dme/.75 =9.5lbs and the original recipe calls for 13 lbs)Do a google search for "converting all grain to extract", you'll find some resources.ETA the conversion rate for dry malt extract is 60% so it still comes up a little short (=11.5lbs not 9.5lbs) but not as much as I had listed above.
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culdeus
Footballguy
culdeus
Footballguy
Is there a different conversion for LME and DME perhaps?
coldchill
Footballguy
.75 for LME, .60 for DMEIs there a different conversion for LME and DME perhaps?
ETA the conversion rate for dry malt extract is 60% so it still comes up a little short (=11.5lbs not 9.5lbs) but not as much as I had listed above.
Organized Chaos
Footballguy
NP..We just pulled this recipe up and brewed up a 10 gallon batch of the AG version (we were not able to get the palisade hops, so we just swapped them for Amarillo). I have 5 gallons upstairs fermenting nicely with my Amber.
BTW, if anyone cant get Warrior, I have 3 ounces I could send out. Things Beer inside Michigan Brewing Co. stocks them and I pick up some hops every time I am out there..
Organized Chaos
Footballguy
Yeah, I dont know why they were so off on the grain bill with the conversion?Side note, I didnt realize that this would be such a big beer. Our SG hit 1.070.75 for LME, .60 for DMEIs there a different conversion for LME and DME perhaps?
ETA the conversion rate for dry malt extract is 60% so it still comes up a little short (=11.5lbs not 9.5lbs) but not as much as I had listed above.
coldchill
Footballguy
Side note, I didnt realize that this would be such a big beer. Our SG hit 1.070
I'll pm you my address and patiently await a bottle. 