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PBS Frontline : The Retirement Gamble, sorta Must See (1 Viewer)

I'd contact the company/agency he retired from and explain the situation.  Have all his personal info available so they can give you the right answers.  Good thing is a survivor benefit is US law so your mom would have had to decline that benefit in writing to not qualify.  Most survivor benefits are reduced 25 to 50%, you'd have to see what they elected. 

Also if they have a finacial advisor then they should be able to help you with the annuity question.  I'd ask for an in-person meeting and get this #### in order, God knows you have other things to deal with in this very emotional ordeal.  If they can't help you, fire them and go somewhere else.  Seriously, this is no time for an advisor to be dicking you around. 

IMO annuities and whole life insurance generally stink.  Make sure the advisor is a fiduciary, ask him/her that question right off the bat.  If they aren't, move on.  In the long run this will save your family a lot of money. 
Thanks again for the advice.

 
Thanks again for the advice.
If they bought it in 08 they should be past any penalty for transferring the Funds in the VA into an IRA. It sounds like the kind of annuity with guarantees to step up in value over time as long as they take lifetime payments at the end, but that is not their only option. That may not be a bad choice for them considering his health and their finances. However the run up in value from 08 to now should have been significant so transferring the account value in full could also be a great option. Either way they are most likely at peak value and these annuities are quite fee heavy so just leaving it there seems like the worst option.

Just some quick input but I do agree you should meet with a reputable financial advisor in your area for a thorough plan.  If you don't know one ask friends for referrals for ones they trust. 

 
OK guys, I keep up with this thread, lots of great info, I could really use some info for my in-laws.

They are both 69, he's a retired telephone worker collecting a decent pension, she was a homemaker and they both are collecting SS.  I had very little knowledge of their finances until recently.  He took care of their finances and was recently diagnosed with Alzheimer's.  Over the last 2 years he was missing bills, making withdrawls from his IRA, lots of CC debt etc. A real mess.  My MIL recently took everything over and tonight she asked me to review everything, their assets/liabilities/bills etc.  She has gotten things straightened out but they are not necessarily in great financial shape.  Still owe on their house.  Based on the balance, I would guess 7-8 years left.  Uggh.  I went through all their assets/liabilities as she is meeting tomorrow with someone to talk to regarding what to do financially due to my FIL's Alzheimer's.  

Anyway, one thing I did get a look at is a Quarterly statement from Genworth Financial for a RetireReady Choice NY Variable Annunity. Based on my reading of this thread I am not so sure this is a good thing.  Can anyone explain what this exactly is?  Can it be cashed out into a regular IRA account?  Some details show Contract value, Hypothetical death benefit, Lifetime Income Plus 2008 rider benefit.  Also these optional programs and riders are selected: Systematic reset, Annual Step-Up Death Benefit Rider, Lifetime Income Plus 2008 Rider with Principal Protection Death Benefit.

It doesn't look like they have ever withdrawn anything from this but I have no idea what I am looking at.  All these different dollar values for withdrawl base, roll up value etc has me confused.  Can anyone shine some light on this for me?

Thanks for any help.
Variable annuities can be bought in IRA (qualified) accounts or brokerage  (non-qualified) accounts.  This makes a big difference for your FIL because if non qualified and you cash out there will be tax consequences ( ordinary income tax on any gains).   As DD mentioned,  variable annuities have deferred sales charges and they typically last for 7-9 years.  If bought in 2008, it may be out of surrender.  

It sounds like there are a number of riders on the contract.  If he has not taken any withdrawals, the benefit base is likely much higher than the contract value.   I would recommend finding out the details on all the riders from Genworth.  For example,  is your MIL a co-annuitant ( can she receive income), what is current death benefit, does it reset annually?   What income percentage/amount would he/they get if they took income?  Is there a surrender charge?  Qualified?  What are total fees for contract?  (M&I, admin, rider fees, mutual fund fees). 

Based on the answers to the questions above it may make sense to hold onto, cash out, or even start taking income from the contract.

 
https://www.americanfunds.com/individual/planning/retirement-planning/plan-contribution-limits.html

Could someone help understand this. So the above link is what I'm dealing with. My wife contributes 18k to her 401k. She also does another 35k for her profit sharing at her work. This is the max of 53k.

This has nothing to do with contributing limits on a IRA or a 529 right? She can still do the max on those per year of she would like correct ?

And further more all of the contributions no matter what investment type will help lower her taxable income correct ?

Thanks I need to wrap my head around this. 

 
Variable annuities can be bought in IRA (qualified) accounts or brokerage  (non-qualified) accounts.  This makes a big difference for your FIL because if non qualified and you cash out there will be tax consequences ( ordinary income tax on any gains).   As DD mentioned,  variable annuities have deferred sales charges and they typically last for 7-9 years.  If bought in 2008, it may be out of surrender.  

It sounds like there are a number of riders on the contract.  If he has not taken any withdrawals, the benefit base is likely much higher than the contract value.   I would recommend finding out the details on all the riders from Genworth.  For example,  is your MIL a co-annuitant ( can she receive income), what is current death benefit, does it reset annually?   What income percentage/amount would he/they get if they took income?  Is there a surrender charge?  Qualified?  What are total fees for contract?  (M&I, admin, rider fees, mutual fund fees). 

Based on the answers to the questions above it may make sense to hold onto, cash out, or even start taking income from the contract.
Thanks for the detailed response, it's very helpful.  

This was definitely bought in an IRA either using 401K funds or a buy out when he retired.

I'll post some details here and maybe you can answer a few of my questions, most I will need to contact them

Contract Date: 03/04/2008

Total Payments: $77,315.55 (This looks to be a one time payment when opened)

Total Withdrawals: $0

Change in Value: $14,375.52

Ending contract value: $91,691.07

Hypothetical death benefit: $96,925.77

Lifetime Income Plus 2008 rider benefit summary

Benefit Base value as of quarter end: $125,612.70

Withdrawal Base: $96,925.77

Roll-up Value: $125,612.70

Contract Value last anniversary: $89,324.46

Principal Protection death benefit value: $77,315.55

So what does benefit base mean?  How much is thing really worth?

Thanks a TON for your detailed questions above that I can ask them to get more info.  I am confused and I know they do not understand any of this stuff.

 
https://www.americanfunds.com/individual/planning/retirement-planning/plan-contribution-limits.html

Could someone help understand this. So the above link is what I'm dealing with. My wife contributes 18k to her 401k. She also does another 35k for her profit sharing at her work. This is the max of 53k.

This has nothing to do with contributing limits on a IRA or a 529 right? She can still do the max on those per year of she would like correct ?

And further more all of the contributions no matter what investment type will help lower her taxable income correct ?

Thanks I need to wrap my head around this. 
The first part is correct, She can contribute 53k total between her 401(k) and profit sharing.

She is still allowed to contribute $5,500 to an IRA ($6,500 if 50 or over) but it may not be deductible based on her income and the fact that she is covered by an employer plan.   IRS Link

A traditional IRA would lower taxable income if she is under the income limit.  You can contribute $5,500 to an IRA and deduct it if your joint income is less than $184,000.  The income limit is higher because you are not covered by an employer but your wife is.

529 plan or Roth IRA contributions will not lower your taxable income.

 
A real concern I have is what happens to her when he passes.  I tried to find the paperwork from when he retired and what he selected as a survivor benefit for her.  I am sure he selected a smaller pension, but I do not know if he selected a 50/75/100% option.  She'll get that and then his SS, but lose hers, but her income will be less and I'm not sure if she'll be able to stay in the house.  We still have no idea what will happen to their assets when he eventually get placed in a facility but that's another issue entirely.
I'd imagine that's dilemma a lot of people that are in the same situation where they've suffering from a mental condition and they don't have kids and a spouse or they've outlived their spouse or both people are going through it together.  

 
Thanks for the detailed response, it's very helpful.  

This was definitely bought in an IRA either using 401K funds or a buy out when he retired.

I'll post some details here and maybe you can answer a few of my questions, most I will need to contact them

Contract Date: 03/04/2008

Total Payments: $77,315.55 (This looks to be a one time payment when opened)

Total Withdrawals: $0

Change in Value: $14,375.52

Ending contract value: $91,691.07

Hypothetical death benefit: $96,925.77

Lifetime Income Plus 2008 rider benefit summary

Benefit Base value as of quarter end: $125,612.70

Withdrawal Base: $96,925.77

Roll-up Value: $125,612.70

Contract Value last anniversary: $89,324.46

Principal Protection death benefit value: $77,315.55

So what does benefit base mean?  How much is thing really worth?

Thanks a TON for your detailed questions above that I can ask them to get more info.  I am confused and I know they do not understand any of this stuff.
If you cashed out today, assuming no surrender charges, it is worth the current contract value $91,691.  The benefit base or withdrawal base has been growing the past 8 years.  Typically they grow at around 6-7% minimum each year and if the contract value is higher on the anniversary it locks that amount in.  Since he hasn't taken any withdrawals he has been letting this grow.  I would clarify with Genworth but I suspect if he wanted he could start taking income on the benefit base of $125,612.  At age 69, it may be around 6%, which is $7,536 a year.  If your mother in law was a co-annuitant and in good health this may be a good option.  If he is the only annuitant and he turns on income and passes away in 4 years he would have taken $30k out in income but the contract value goes down dollar for dollarvon withdrawals.  Hence, unless he lives at least 10 years more taking income is probably not the best solution. 

The step up death benefit is interesting, this means on the contract anniversary the death benefit steps up to the contract value if it is higher.   I would confirm with Genworth that if he passed away today your MIL would receive $96,925.  If you cashed in the policy now and he passed away later this year you would lose $5k.  Another option is if he is the only annuitant and his life expectancy is limited would be to turn off the income rider if he never will use it, it would save money on fees.

 
The first part is correct, She can contribute 53k total between her 401(k) and profit sharing.

She is still allowed to contribute $5,500 to an IRA ($6,500 if 50 or over) but it may not be deductible based on her income and the fact that she is covered by an employer plan.   IRS Link

A traditional IRA would lower taxable income if she is under the income limit.  You can contribute $5,500 to an IRA and deduct it if your joint income is less than $184,000.  The income limit is higher because you are not covered by an employer but your wife is.

529 plan or Roth IRA contributions will not lower your taxable income.
If her income is sufficiently high that she is able to contribute $53k to her 401k/profit sharing, there's at least a decent chance that she's over the Roth contribution income limit.  Backdoor Roth could be an option.  

529 plan could potentially lower the taxable income for state purposes.  That would depend on the state though.

Honestly, if Mrs. Wooderson is socking away $53k/year and he's got these kinds of questions, they should strongly consider paying someone to provide advice.  I know that's not a common suggestion in this thread because most posters in here are pretty financially savvy, but not everyone is.  Wooderson, your wife makes a lot of money.  We can only provide very generic advice in this thread and can't give you anything tailored to your individual situation.  I appreciate you wanting to do it yourself, but you should really consider talking to a professional.  I'd hate to see you try to manage things yourself and get tripped up on something and screw yourself over with the dollar amounts you're talking here.  The peace of mind might be worth the fee.  Just my two cents.

 
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If you cashed out today, assuming no surrender charges, it is worth the current contract value $91,691.  The benefit base or withdrawal base has been growing the past 8 years.  Typically they grow at around 6-7% minimum each year and if the contract value is higher on the anniversary it locks that amount in.  Since he hasn't taken any withdrawals he has been letting this grow.  I would clarify with Genworth but I suspect if he wanted he could start taking income on the benefit base of $125,612.  At age 69, it may be around 6%, which is $7,536 a year.  If your mother in law was a co-annuitant and in good health this may be a good option.  If he is the only annuitant and he turns on income and passes away in 4 years he would have taken $30k out in income but the contract value goes down dollar for dollarvon withdrawals.  Hence, unless he lives at least 10 years more taking income is probably not the best solution. 

The step up death benefit is interesting, this means on the contract anniversary the death benefit steps up to the contract value if it is higher.   I would confirm with Genworth that if he passed away today your MIL would receive $96,925.  If you cashed in the policy now and he passed away later this year you would lose $5k.  Another option is if he is the only annuitant and his life expectancy is limited would be to turn off the income rider if he never will use it, it would save money on fees.
Really appreciate your response.  From the paperwork, he is the only one listed as the Annuitant, no co-annuitant.  I'll have to get more information from them, but at first glance it sounds like he should not withdraw any funds for the time being.  Sounds like this might be better being used as a life insurance based on his life expectancy.  If he passed tomorrow and I confirm the death benefit is correct, would this be paid out as pre-tax or post tax income?

Thanks again, this is all really helpful.

 
Really appreciate your response.  From the paperwork, he is the only one listed as the Annuitant, no co-annuitant.  I'll have to get more information from them, but at first glance it sounds like he should not withdraw any funds for the time being.  Sounds like this might be better being used as a life insurance based on his life expectancy.  If he passed tomorrow and I confirm the death benefit is correct, would this be paid out as pre-tax or post tax income?

Thanks again, this is all really helpful.
If the contract is in fact in his IRA, there is no tax consequence.  Most likely the contract is held within an IRA he owns.  At his passing, the death benefit is paid out on cash to that IRA.  Assuming your MIL is the beneficiary of his IRA, she could then roll that money into her IRA to avoid any taxes.

 
Rick:

First, the Variable annuity is not a good product.  They made a mistake buying it.  The only annuity that qualifies as a 'good' product is an SPIA (single premium immediate annuity).

I would try to move the money out of there, but before you did that need to understand penalties and such.

Here's a prospectus

https://hosted.rightprospectus.com/documents/GenworthVA/PRO_RetireReadyRetirementAnswer.pdf

I see 'variable account' expenses up to 1.5%, and then another set of fees (operating expenses) for about 0.77%.  So it's designed to suck off the teat to the tune of 2 and a quarter % fees annual.  

Figure out what the fee is to exit the annuity, and likely bite the bullet and get it over to Vanguard

 
Rick:

First, the Variable annuity is not a good product.  They made a mistake buying it.  The only annuity that qualifies as a 'good' product is an SPIA (single premium immediate annuity).

I would try to move the money out of there, but before you did that need to understand penalties and such.

Here's a prospectus

https://hosted.rightprospectus.com/documents/GenworthVA/PRO_RetireReadyRetirementAnswer.pdf

I see 'variable account' expenses up to 1.5%, and then another set of fees (operating expenses) for about 0.77%.  So it's designed to suck off the teat to the tune of 2 and a quarter % fees annual.  

Figure out what the fee is to exit the annuity, and likely bite the bullet and get it over to Vanguard
Thanks,

I just got done reading that and another one I found that was for the NY fund specifically.  The other one was from 2009 and was 139 pages... WTF

Lots of fees that I saw especially on the riders.  Looking at what the value is now, they earned 2.8% yearly over the last 8 years.  I am almost sure they are past the penalties phase and can move it out, but I will check.  I just didn't know with his life expectancy if keeping it might be valuable.  What a mess.  I'm not that savvy on this type of stuff, but they will not want to invest in something that will lose money I am sure.  Probably why they got suckered into this, guy likely promised them you cannot lose your investment and are guaranteed 5% blah blah blah.

 Well I have more work to do, the problem is it's not mine so I can't call these people directly and discuss.  

Thanks again for the advice, it's much appreciated.

 
  Probably why they got suckered into this, guy likely promised them you cannot lose your investment and are guaranteed 5% blah blah blah.
You are spot on here.  Variable annuities are very confusing and people don't understand the guaranteed 5% is on the benefit base, not the contract value.  The fees are likely over 3% with all the riders and he would have fared much better in index funds or etfs.  They are typically sold to people who are very conservative who do not want to lose money as they provide some downside protection.  

I don't know the life expectancy for your FIL, but that along with the death benefit info on the contract should be the determinent if he keeps the policy or cashes it in.

 
The first part is correct, She can contribute 53k total between her 401(k) and profit sharing.

She is still allowed to contribute $5,500 to an IRA ($6,500 if 50 or over) but it may not be deductible based on her income and the fact that she is covered by an employer plan.   IRS Link

A traditional IRA would lower taxable income if she is under the income limit.  You can contribute $5,500 to an IRA and deduct it if your joint income is less than $184,000.  The income limit is higher because you are not covered by an employer but your wife is.

529 plan or Roth IRA contributions will not lower your taxable income.
Thank you for the help. 

 
Probably a dumb question here. But I work for myself as a sole proprietor. I max out my Roth IRA every year. But I don't put away more than that into retirement accounts. I've been putting it into savings and my brokerage account. I also have an old 401k from a previous employer that I rolled over into a traditional IRA. So my question is, can I make contributions to that Rollover IRA, or do I have to set up a SEP IRA?

 
Probably a dumb question here. But I work for myself as a sole proprietor. I max out my Roth IRA every year. But I don't put away more than that into retirement accounts. I've been putting it into savings and my brokerage account. I also have an old 401k from a previous employer that I rolled over into a traditional IRA. So my question is, can I make contributions to that Rollover IRA, or do I have to set up a SEP IRA?
You can't max out both a Roth and a traditional.  You're limited to the $5,500 cap.  SEPs look to be from a different pool (but, you know, talk to a tax pro before screwing something up).  There's also solo 401ks that may be right for you.  I know there are tradeoffs between those two - something to look into.

 
You can't max out both a Roth and a traditional.  You're limited to the $5,500 cap.  SEPs look to be from a different pool (but, you know, talk to a tax pro before screwing something up).  There's also solo 401ks that may be right for you.  I know there are tradeoffs between those two - something to look into.
Tell me if I'm wrong (before I make the mistake) - I've maxed my tsp and my wife's Roth for the year.  I think the next step would be to max my Roth IRA. But is that not allowed?  If not we could put into the kids' coverdell accounts but we're actually thinking of leaving those alone at just over $25k each. 

I'll talk to my tax paralegal Tuesday, she's all over this stuff. 

 
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Probably a dumb question here. But I work for myself as a sole proprietor. I max out my Roth IRA every year. But I don't put away more than that into retirement accounts. I've been putting it into savings and my brokerage account. I also have an old 401k from a previous employer that I rolled over into a traditional IRA. So my question is, can I make contributions to that Rollover IRA, or do I have to set up a SEP IRA?
Like Sand says, SEP and self-employed 401(k) could be options.  They will depend on some factors, employees, income level, etc.  Generally the SEP is a little better for a pure sole proprietor with no employees, as it can be administered easily and does not require an annual filing.  The self-employed 401(k) requires some more third-party administration and eventually requires an annual 5500 tax return once you hit a certain amount of assets.  So the costs may be higher.

That said, I recently worked with some clients of mine who do pretty well financially; I had given a loose recommendation of a SEP, but we worked with our in-house wealth management people who have put together a self-employed 401(k) for them with some specific terms that should far outweight the slightly higher administration costs in the long-term.  There are a lot of moving pieces to consider.

If you're making enough money to consider this, I would recommend that you seek a professional before making a decision, even if it's a brief hourly-fee-based sitdown with a wealth management advisor to understand your options.

 
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Tell me if I'm wrong (before I make the mistake) - I've maxed my tsp and my wife's Roth for the year.  I think the next step would be to max my Roth IRA. But is that not allowed?  If not we could put into the kids' coverdell accounts but we're actually thinking of leaving those alone at just over $25k each. 

I'll talk to my tax paralegal Tuesday, she's all over this stuff. 
Depends on your adjusted gross income.  If married filing jointly contributions to your Roth IRA would only be allowed if your agi was under $180k or so

 
Tell me if I'm wrong (before I make the mistake) - I've maxed my tsp and my wife's Roth for the year.  I think the next step would be to max my Roth IRA. But is that not allowed?  If not we could put into the kids' coverdell accounts but we're actually thinking of leaving those alone at just over $25k each. 

I'll talk to my tax paralegal Tuesday, she's all over this stuff. 
Well, in the IRA space you get 5500 and your wife gets 5500.  As long as you both have qualified income and don't fall outside the caps I don't think it's a problem.  The previous question was about the same person doing both a traditional and a Roth.  That is limited by person to 5500 total (more if you're old).

 
Well, in the IRA space you get 5500 and your wife gets 5500.  As long as you both have qualified income and don't fall outside the caps I don't think it's a problem.  The previous question was about the same person doing both a traditional and a Roth.  That is limited by person to 5500 total (more if you're old).
Right, just making sure the same rule doesn't apply to one person's tsp and Roth.  I don't think it does but seems it should. 

 
So I wanted to crank up a Roth in 2017.  Started to investigate it and discovered that there are income limits on it?   WTF?  Is there anyway to get around these?   I work for a non-profit and my 403B is not super flexible other than letting you pick which funds you wish to invest in.

What are my options here?

 
So I wanted to crank up a Roth in 2017.  Started to investigate it and discovered that there are income limits on it?   WTF?  Is there anyway to get around these?   I work for a non-profit and my 403B is not super flexible other than letting you pick which funds you wish to invest in.

What are my options here?
You can read up on backdoor IRAs, like this one.  There are a couple strategies that may work.  Traditional IRAs have higher income limits and I've become convinced that if you're in the 25+% tax range you're better off putting it in there anyway.  Then you can play money games and transfer over your tIRA to a Roth at very low rates.

 
So I wanted to crank up a Roth in 2017.  Started to investigate it and discovered that there are income limits on it?   WTF?  Is there anyway to get around these?   I work for a non-profit and my 403B is not super flexible other than letting you pick which funds you wish to invest in.

What are my options here?
You can backdoor your roth if you're into that sort of thing.   Although I'd suggest putting that money aside for your son's next car.

 
You can read up on backdoor IRAs, like this one.  There are a couple strategies that may work.  Traditional IRAs have higher income limits and I've become convinced that if you're in the 25+% tax range you're better off putting it in there anyway.  Then you can play money games and transfer over your tIRA to a Roth at very low rates.
What do you recommend when you are beyond the income limits of a traditional IRA?  I am mindlessly throwing money into a brokerage account.  Can I "backdoor" any of this money?

 
have you maxed your 401k?
Yes.. usually in first 6 months of each year.  July this year.... then I am investing in low fee index funds.  Wondering if there are further tax tricks to play with this money.

 
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What do you recommend when you are beyond the income limits of a traditional IRA?  I am mindlessly throwing money into a brokerage account.  Can I "backdoor" any of this money?
Max out 401k, see if you can backdoor anything (401k rules are different for each plan, so no telling if you can do this).  Start a side hustle and squirrel money away in an individual 401k.  After that, yeah, a regular brokerage account.

I'm of the opinion that having dollops of each type of money (tax free, tax deferred, and taxable) is fine.  Taxable isn't as efficient in growing, but allows you to play games with tax loss harvesting and being able to manage your taxable income in retirement so you can shift monies from tIRA to a Roth to your greedy hands tax free (or very low tax).  

 
Yes.. usually in first 6 months of each year.  July this year.... then I am investing in low fee index funds.  Wondering if there are further tax tricks to play with this money.
If you have kids...potentially 529?  But it looks like you have it covered for the most part.

 
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Company was bought out and new 401(k) gives the option of roth vs traditional...how do I know which one is better for me? I have a meeting Thursday with an in house benefit advisor but wanted to get some information before the meeting.

Thanks.

 
Another question. Want to put $5000 + 100/mo into a personal Roth. Is the Vanguard 500 Index Fund Investor Share a good fund? I am 20 years to full retirement. 

Thanks again.

 
Company was bought out and new 401(k) gives the option of roth vs traditional...how do I know which one is better for me? I have a meeting Thursday with an in house benefit advisor but wanted to get some information before the meeting.

Thanks.
If you're hitting the peak of your earning years, traditional better.  If you are still working your way up the tax brackets than Roth better.  

And the above choice is somewhat low on the scale of importance in the big picture.  

Your Vanguard 500 is a fine choice on its own, but I have no idea how it fits in with your overall investment strategy / allocatoin plan

 
Another question. Want to put $5000 + 100/mo into a personal Roth. Is the Vanguard 500 Index Fund Investor Share a good fund? I am 20 years to full retirement. 

Thanks again.
If you're limited to mutual funds rather than ETFs this is fine.  Expense ratio is quite low, so very little drag there.  

 
Company was bought out and new 401(k) gives the option of roth vs traditional...how do I know which one is better for me? I have a meeting Thursday with an in house benefit advisor but wanted to get some information before the meeting.

Thanks.
General consensus is that a Roth 401k is almost always the poorer choice.  There are some good bogleheads discussions on the comparison.

Read this, particularly the Final Totals and Conclusions.  Shielding money early is generally the way to go unless your income is pretty low.

 

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