Smart Home Automation / High Tech House Thread (1 Viewer)

[Fat Nick]

I just started adding some home automation, got a few bulbs and outlets.  Next is the switches, as seems the cheaper option then getting 9 bulbs for the chandelier,, but the problem I'm running into is that all of my switches in our living room are 3-4 way switches, and with multiple (3-4) switches in each box.  For example, behind my couch is a 4 switch box, one for the fan light, one for the fan, one that turns off the light over the table and one for an outlet on the other side of the room.  On the dining room wall, is one that controls the light over the table, the main room light/fan and the kitchen light, too.  

Anyone able to replace that many 3-4 way switches with that many switches per box? And if so, what did you use?

Seriously, I'd just stop getting bulbs at this point if I were you.  Go switches.  I used exclusively the Leviton Vizia series of switches.  They're momentary push switches (The switch doesn't toggle, just push on, push again for off.)  They make the same style in Dimmer (Magnetic, Electric, or Incandescent), Switch, Fan control, and a few others...with all coming in "Smart" switches (Z-wave) and regular switches.  The closest thing to a drawback for these is the REQUIRE a neutral line hook-up (typically white wire) in the box.  You have to hook the switch up to it in order for it to function as the switch has small LED indicators.  I used dimmers for every single switch that has a light hooked to it.  I have probably 20 dimmers, and only 4-5 normal switches.  

I have several instances where I have 3-way switches...In the case of my foyer, I've got 5 total switches for the same light.  When you do those, you only need 1 of the 5 to be "smart."  For dimmers, the rest are just regular dimmers.  For non-dimmers, you buy a "slave" switch.  I'd suggest checking out the wiring diagrams for whatever you decide to go with.  The trickly part for my 3-way+'s was that for the LED dimmer indicators to sync on both switches, you need a traveler wire that connects to the yellow terminal on the switch.  in my case, I was able to utilize some of the common wires in my existing box.  It's been a while...but basically I mapped out my whole circuit on paper and realized I had some redundant wires.  I used these as the traveler wire to allow the switches to communicate with each other.  No clue if all houses are wired like this or not.  

You can obviously mix-and-match smart and dumb switches.  I have 3 switches in a box by my garage...One smart dimmer for the hallway, one smart switch for my motion light outside, and one regular switch for my garage lights.  They all fit in a normal 3-gang box...admittedly it's very snug, but if you're neat with your wires, they'll fit.

 

[stbugs]

I haven’t fully enabled my house but I do have an Echo and bunch of FireTVs (one the cube which is like an Echo). I had enough of the wireless remotes that I setup for Christmas lights through the house so I got a bunch of wall plugs from Amazon and set those up. So nice for the lights to use the phone or voice control. Starting to move them around to use on lights I always had to turn off since my wife and kids like me to do everything!

This stuff is really nice and the Alexa app is pretty slick and obviously you could set them up while out of town to alternate lights on and off to avoid Home Alone type situations. I’m looking forward to beefing that all up and adding new stuff. 

 

[Ron Swanson]

I just started adding some home automation, got a few bulbs and outlets.  Next is the switches, as seems the cheaper option then getting 9 bulbs for the chandelier,, but the problem I'm running into is that all of my switches in our living room are 3-4 way switches, and with multiple (3-4) switches in each box.  For example, behind my couch is a 4 switch box, one for the fan light, one for the fan, one that turns off the light over the table and one for an outlet on the other side of the room.  On the dining room wall, is one that controls the light over the table, the main room light/fan and the kitchen light, too.  

Anyone able to replace that many 3-4 way switches with that many switches per box? And if so, what did you use?

Using the GE/Jasco Zwave switches it may be tight. I have handled it through a mixture of combining loads (IE in a bathroom I'll combine the fan with the lights so both come on and eliminate one switch). BTW, the "add-on" or slave switches that don't have any logic and just use a digital traveler wire are much cheaper than the smart switches.

I've also used the previous generation of these in some gang boxes where I couldn't fit all the GE switches.  They convert the existing switch into a dry contact and aver, very small. You will have to make your own pigtails for them and the screws on the terminals strip easily but they do work well.

https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Switch-controller-Z-Wave-Compatible/dp/B06XWT1L5S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1546889052&sr=8-6&keywords=aeotec+switch

 

[Ron Swanson]

Oooh...looks like they make a dual switch version now as well.  This could be a big space saver:

https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Switch-controller-switches-Compatible/dp/B076BM4D48/ref=pd_bxgy_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B076BM4D48&pd_rd_r=e6c4a8e0-12b1-11e9-a950-f54e71c18e47&pd_rd_w=Ke3sQ&pd_rd_wg=yGueX&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=0QGVA466N7M4CQY5XQ7K&psc=1&refRID=0QGVA466N7M4CQY5XQ7K

 

[Spin]

I have several instances where I have 3-way switches...In the case of my foyer, I've got 5 total switches for the same light.  When you do those, you only need 1 of the 5 to be "smart."  

Right, this was my first plan, but if someone turns the other switch off manually, won't it mess up the "smart" switch, too?  

Definitely planning on going the switch route v bulbs.  Got a pack of the bulbs for Christmas, but bought outlets for all our lamps v bulbs and was way cheaper.  Just need to figure out the 4 switch boxes, etc.  Was planning on doing motion detector switches in the bathrooms, too, as my kids are terrible at turning the lights back off.

 

[Spin]

Oooh...looks like they make a dual switch version now as well.  This could be a big space saver:

https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Switch-controller-switches-Compatible/dp/B076BM4D48/ref=pd_bxgy_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B076BM4D48&pd_rd_r=e6c4a8e0-12b1-11e9-a950-f54e71c18e47&pd_rd_w=Ke3sQ&pd_rd_wg=yGueX&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=0QGVA466N7M4CQY5XQ7K&psc=1&refRID=0QGVA466N7M4CQY5XQ7K

Interesting, so this sits behind the switch plate?  Off the top of my head, if I had 3 of these could handle all my lights between my livingroom/dining room/ kitchen, which is just essentially one giant open floor plan and 5ish switches around the spaces controlling all the various lights.

 

[Ron Swanson]

Interesting, so this sits behind the switch plate?  Off the top of my head, if I had 3 of these could handle all my lights between my livingroom/dining room/ kitchen, which is just essentially one giant open floor plan and 5ish switches around the spaces controlling all the various lights.

Yep.  They tuck in behind the existing switch.

 

[Chaka]

Not interested in anything of this sort.  

I don't say that to poopoo any of your gadgets -- some of them are very cool.   But, I'm too paranoid to have everything in my house on my wifi network.  You're just asking for trouble.   

I have this concern as well.  @Otis, @Ron Swanson you guys seem to be the big adopters of this tech (I've got some like a Nest thermostat, Ring doorbell and some Phillips Hue bulbs) how are you securing these devices on your networks?  Is the hype about using these devices to backdoor into your network overblown? Is simply having a strong network password sufficient?

 

[Fat Nick]

Right, this was my first plan, but if someone turns the other switch off manually, won't it mess up the "smart" switch, too?  

Definitely planning on going the switch route v bulbs.  Got a pack of the bulbs for Christmas, but bought outlets for all our lamps v bulbs and was way cheaper.  Just need to figure out the 4 switch boxes, etc.  Was planning on doing motion detector switches in the bathrooms, too, as my kids are terrible at turning the lights back off.

At least in my case - no.  Note this was part of the reason I went with the Vizia touch switch.  It looks the same whether it's on or off.  The only visible difference is a small LED on the switch that's off when the light is on, and vice versa.  The switch itself always physically looks the same.  You hit it to essentially toggle it to the opposite of whatever state it's currently in...I'm OCD and I hated the look of a panel of switches where all the lights were off, and in some cases the switch was up and some it was down.  I imagine for old-school toggle stick switches, using the "smart" switch would lead to some issues at some point with mis-alignment.  I'm honestly not sure how that works for those style switches.  

Re. motion switches - that works, and so do timer switches.  All my bathroom fans are on timer switches like THESE.  You touch whatever time you want, and then they cut off.  Was more elegant (and a lot cheaper) than a home automation solution. That way, if I blow the bathroom up and hit 30, and close the door, it'll just cut off on it's own once it's been defumigated.

 

[Fat Nick]

I have this concern as well.  @Otis, @Ron Swanson you guys seem to be the big adopters of this tech (I've got some like a Nest thermostat, Ring doorbell and some Phillips Hue bulbs) how are you securing these devices on your networks?  Is the hype about using these devices to backdoor into your network overblown? Is simply having a strong network password sufficient?

Honestly, Most of the security on home-automation controlled entry devices is ramped up by default.  I.e. you can't yell for Alexa to unlock a door.  Only lock.  My basic view of things like this is that

1) Most thieves are not overly computer literate.  If they ARE to the level required to hack into my system...there are far more lucrative things in the world to steal than my clothes and some electronics

2) Physical means of entry are still a lot faster and easier

3) If you've got so much cool stuff that you're THAT worried about it being stolen, and somebody wants it bad enough, they're going to steal it regardless.

I just don't do anything dumb...I don't leave doors unlocked.  Don't make your entry code "1234."  Have an alarm.  Use it.  Have cameras with cloud storage...beyond that, if somebody wants something bad enough that they'll risk getting caught, they'll try regardless of if you've got stuff on wifi or not.  

 

[Chaka]

Honestly, Most of the security on home-automation controlled entry devices is ramped up by default.  I.e. you can't yell for Alexa to unlock a door.  Only lock.  My basic view of things like this is that

1) Most thieves are not overly computer literate.  If they ARE to the level required to hack into my system...there are far more lucrative things in the world to steal than my clothes and some electronics

2) Physical means of entry are still a lot faster and easier

3) If you've got so much cool stuff that you're THAT worried about it being stolen, and somebody wants it bad enough, they're going to steal it regardless.

I just don't do anything dumb...I don't leave doors unlocked.  Don't make your entry code "1234."  Have an alarm.  Use it.  Have cameras with cloud storage...beyond that, if somebody wants something bad enough that they'll risk getting caught, they'll try regardless of if you've got stuff on wifi or not.  

I am more worried about protecting the information on my network, like networked hard drives or computers than the physical stuff in my house.

That and didn't you see season 2 episode 1 of Mr. Robot?

 

[Chaka]

Looking at the works with SmartThings page I see that it doesn't work with Nest thermostats.

So does that mean there is no way to control the Nest through SmartThings or can I go through Google Home to Smart Things or is there another option?

 

[Fat Nick]

I am more worried about protecting the information on my network, like networked hard drives or computers than the physical stuff in my house.

That and didn't you see season 2 episode 1 of Mr. Robot?

Aah - gotcha...I have NAS, but there's nothing on there except pictures, movies, and some manuals...Sadly, I still get almost all of my bill statements in paper form and file them...Very little to actually steal from me digitally.  Important documents (passport, etc.) are locked in an in-wall safe.  

 

[Ron Swanson]

I am more worried about protecting the information on my network, like networked hard drives or computers than the physical stuff in my house.

That and didn't you see season 2 episode 1 of Mr. Robot?

What Fat Nick said + I don't have anything on my network.  No local networked storage.

 

[Ron Swanson]

Looking at the works with SmartThings page I see that it doesn't work with Nest thermostats.

So does that mean there is no way to control the Nest through SmartThings or can I go through Google Home to Smart Things or is there another option?

Sort of.  It is not officially certified by Samsung. But there are plenty of community-based projects that integrate Nest just fine.  One of the nice things about SmartThings.  "Official" support means little.

But, if you haven't purchased a thermostat yet, I would highly recommend you evaluate the Ecobee4.

 

[James Bond]

I just got a new router when I switched ISPs. Found it easier to change the name of the WiFi and the password on the router itself than change every device. I had the router broadcast the old name and everything found it.

The weird thing is I have a WiFi security camera that can only operate on the 2.4G band and not the 5G, so I have to have a special second wifi running just for that device. Everything else has no problem going 5G.

When we changed service, I asked my Millennial son to set up the router. He did but didn't set up the network name and the password to the old one. I couldn't figure out why nothing was working until I realized that he had changed my network name to "FBI Surveillance Van."  Everything worked after I changed it back but I think I warped out the neighbors for those couple of days.

 

[Chaka]

Sort of.  It is not officially certified by Samsung. But there are plenty of community-based projects that integrate Nest just fine.  One of the nice things about SmartThings.  "Official" support means little.

But, if you haven't purchased a thermostat yet, I would highly recommend you evaluate the Ecobee4.

Thanks. Any thoughts for people who may have sensitive data on NAS or even a network connected computer?

 

[Osaurus]

When we changed service, I asked my Millennial son to set up the router. He did but didn't set up the network name and the password to the old one. I couldn't figure out why nothing was working until I realized that he had changed my network name to "FBI Surveillance Van."  Everything worked after I changed it back but I think I warped out the neighbors for those couple of days.

Mine is DEA_Surveillance_Van_5G 

 

[Ron Swanson]

Thanks. Any thoughts for people who may have sensitive data on NAS or even a network connected computer?

Get rid of it and move to a reputable cloud storage service.  Use strong passwords (long phrases) and 2 Factor Authentication where you can. Don't share your passwords with anyone who might be susceptible to social engineering. Who's more equipped to truly protect your data?  You or someone like Box or Google? 

 

[Otis]

I am more worried about protecting the information on my network, like networked hard drives or computers than the physical stuff in my house.

That and didn't you see season 2 episode 1 of Mr. Robot?

If a guy is gonna break into my house, he’s doing it with a crowbar. The CIA ain’t sending in the hacker task force for whatever we have in here. 

as for hacking my network, I doubt these devices will make it any easier than it will just through my regular WiFi. And I live in the burbs and we are kind of spread out, unless it’s one of my neighbors or a dude parking in my driveway all day in a black van, I don’t think they can do much. 

 

[Chaka]

If a guy is gonna break into my house, he’s doing it with a crowbar. The CIA ain’t sending in the hacker task force for whatever we have in here. 

as for hacking my network, I doubt these devices will make it any easier than it will just through my regular WiFi. And I live in the burbs and we are kind of spread out, unless it’s one of my neighbors or a dude parking in my driveway all day in a black van, I don’t think they can do much. 

I appreciate the response.

Not worried about home invasion, I have two ferocious French Bulldogs to deal with that.

But I don't think it takes nearly that kind of risk for a hacker to try and use your smart refrigerator to back door into your home network (pretty sure we all learned that about two years ago). For us home business types that is a legitimate concern.

I'm a pretty tech savvy guy and can manage all the port forwarding stuff, DHCP or whatever it's called, stuff if it's really the best/only option but aren't there out of the box solutions for truly securing your home business network (yes, yes candles and rotary dial phones blah, blah, blah)? What do home businesses that need to be HIPPA compliant do?

Isn't there some kind of Tor like option so at least your outbound/inbound traffic is harder to track back to the source?

 

[Buddy Ball 2K3]

I have both Google Home/Assistant and the Amazon Echo in my home. A few weeks ago Google had an update to their security that made me rather happy.  Before anyone could come into my home and add something to my shopping list, check my calendar etc. Now everything is voice matched and it works rather well. I had three different adult strangers and two children try to access my "private" info and they weren't able to do it. This however is not the same for the Echo at this point. 

Also I got the Google Home Hub and I am rather happy with it. I have it in the kitchen and one of my concerns was that it would conflict with the other Google Home Speaker that I have in area. Thankfully you can set the Hub to use the GH Speaker of your choice, works very well. 

 

[Poke_4_Life]

:alexablackdot:



Have a few echo dots.  Only have removable 'automation' currently as we will probably move in the next few years and don't see the ROI for more investment.  Do have three Arlo cameras and SImpliSafe as well.  Both of those are 'Alexa enabled' but I don't see the point really.

 

[snellman]

 Currently building a house and probably going to try to make it "smarter"

 

[Senor Schmutzig]

 Currently building a house and probably going to try to make it "smarter"

Same here. I'm probably late to the game as we only have 2 months or so left but some of this stuff sounds really cool. What should be included in the basic Smart "starter pack"?

Having some smart switches, a smart thermostat and a hookup to the security seems to be the easiest stuff to start things out, right?

 

[Ron Swanson]

Same here. I'm probably late to the game as we only have 2 months or so left but some of this stuff sounds really cool. What should be included in the basic Smart "starter pack"?

Having some smart switches, a smart thermostat and a hookup to the security seems to be the easiest stuff to start things out, right?

Yep.  Just have them install smart switches from jump every place you want to automate the lights based on motion, timing, etc.  Don't buy a crappy builder grade "smart thermostat". Pony up for the Ecobee4. Home security integration is likely more custom than your builder can handle.  Just let them do what they do and integrate it alter.  SmartThings is really good at this if you use community based solutions.

 

[Binky The Doormat]

Can you practically use the indoor motion detectors without a bunch of false alarms when you have pets?  

 

[Chaka]

Can you practically use the indoor motion detectors without a bunch of false alarms when you have pets?  

I would be surprised if you could but I guess different brands may be better at discerning pets. I turned off audio notification on my Ring doorbell for anything but actually ringing the doorbell. With all the motion notifications my dogs were driving me ####### crazy. 

 

[Otis]

Same here. I'm probably late to the game as we only have 2 months or so left but some of this stuff sounds really cool. What should be included in the basic Smart "starter pack"?

Having some smart switches, a smart thermostat and a hookup to the security seems to be the easiest stuff to start things out, right?

Yes. First item is install GE Zwave smart switches, dimmers, and wall outlets all over. That will make things light years easier for you later.

also have them run power and outlets to weird places, like the ceiling in a corner in your basement or garage (Wyze cameras). Have them wire power to a Ring doorbell at the front and side doors. Power for a Ring floodlight cam in the driveway and at any other locations around the house where you want security and want to see what’s happening.  Prewiring all this crap will make life so much easier. 

 

[shadrap]

Don't get a smart kitchen faucet-the kind where you touch it & comes on or off.  Worked fine for a few years then capute.   Called company & I was banging my head in the lower cabinet trying to test solinoids, et al.   Finally had them walk me through to get the smart stuff out.   3 hours later-1000 swear words-2 gashes on my arm-one gash on my head I have a faucet that when you turn the handle the water on comes on.  What a novel idea.

 

[Ron Swanson]

Can you practically use the indoor motion detectors without a bunch of false alarms when you have pets?  

It depends.  I use motion sensors when we are in "Home" mode to turn on and off lights in virtually every room based on motion.  Most lights are set to "turn on when motion detected, turn off after 5 minutes of no motion". I also use some motion sensors that report light level so they are set to "turn on when motion detected and lux is below XXX lux, turn off after 5 minutes of no motion". In either of these cases if the dog walks in the room the lights turn on. Doesn't bother me a bit and if we step out it also leaves me a "light trail" of where she's been.

If we put the system in night or away mode now the motion sensors are used for alarming.  In this case, I'm not worried about the Dog because she is in the bedroom with us or at the boarders. I don't turn on the alarm with just the Dog home but I do arm all the cameras.

 

[Ron Swanson]

Don't get a smart kitchen faucet-the kind where you touch it & comes on or off.  Worked fine for a few years then capute.   Called company & I was banging my head in the lower cabinet trying to test solinoids, et al.   Finally had them walk me through to get the smart stuff out.   3 hours later-1000 swear words-2 gashes on my arm-one gash on my head I have a faucet that when you turn the handle the water on comes on.  What a novel idea.

Ooof.  Mine reverts to manual if you remove the batteries.

 

[Fat Nick]

Prewiring all this crap will make life so much easier. 

I can't wait till I get to have a custom-built house.  I'm going to go wiring crazy.  Conduits, tons of cable, etc.  We're not planning to move until I retire most likely as we over-bought our starter house.  I've run a lot of new cable, and am going to run more in a few weeks, but the amount of effort I'm expending now is exponentially more than if somebody had the foresight to do it from the beginning.  I guess when the house was built in 2000, the thought of most of this stuff was still futuristic...of course by that point, who knows if I'll even need anything except electric if wireless tech improves.

 

[Otis]

Don't get a smart kitchen faucet-the kind where you touch it & comes on or off.  Worked fine for a few years then capute.   Called company & I was banging my head in the lower cabinet trying to test solinoids, et al.   Finally had them walk me through to get the smart stuff out.   3 hours later-1000 swear words-2 gashes on my arm-one gash on my head I have a faucet that when you turn the handle the water on comes on.  What a novel idea.

Actually love ours.  Installed one myself a couple months ago.  Awesome.

 

[TripItUp]

Any suggestions on cheap cameras, there’s been a wave of break ins in our zip code. 

 

[Ron Swanson]

Any suggestions on cheap cameras, there’s been a wave of break ins in our zip code. 

Wyzecam or Blink.

 

[shadrap]

Actually love ours.  Installed one myself a couple months ago.  Awesome.

wait til it goes belly up & when changing batteries doesn't work.  report back.

 

[Osaurus]

Wyzecam or Blink.

Just upgraded to 6 of the v2 plus 1 pan/zoom.  Wyze is super impressive 

 

[Chaka]

Let's say I have a room fitted with nothing but Philips Hue light bulbs. Four bulbs wired to a normal dimmer switch and two lamps plugged into normal outlets (which are not wired into a switch).  Is there any reason to also swap out the dimmer switch and outlets to Z-wave versions?  I mean, I already have the wireless functionality.  

On the topic of "smart" lighting.  Philips is the most well known, does anyone have experience with other bulbs supported by SmartThings? Lifx, Sylvania, Cree, Aeotec, Sengled, Ikea & Belkin are all listed as natively SmartThings  compatible.

 

[Ron Swanson]

Let's say I have a room fitted with nothing but Philips Hue light bulbs. Four bulbs wired to a normal dimmer switch and two lamps plugged into normal outlets (which are not wired into a switch).  Is there any reason to also swap out the dimmer switch and outlets to Z-wave versions?  I mean, I already have the wireless functionality.  

On the topic of "smart" lighting.  Philips is the most well known, does anyone have experience with other bulbs supported by SmartThings? Lifx, Sylvania, Cree, Aeotec, Sengled, Ikea & Belkin are all listed as natively SmartThings  compatible.

The only benefit is to prevent people who turn of the switch from defeating your automations. If the automations are good enough that they never look for a switch this won't be a problem. IE, if you set up motion sensors to turn on/off the lights when someone enters the room they likely will never look for the switch. Bigger rooms are usually OK. Smaller rooms, like bathrooms people start feeling for the switch when they walk in and flip it before the motion sensor catches them. 

I have had good luck with Cree Connected lights. I run some direct to SmartThings and some through the Hue hub to SmartThings.  Hues are good but not worth the premium $$ in most cases. Stay far, far away from the GE Link bulbs.  I'm not even sure if they're still on the market but they suck.

I've also had good luck with the Home Depot house brand (Commercial Electric) replacement LED can lights with built-in Zigbee.  I use a Lightify device type to enable color and dimming control.

 

[Gianni Verscotchie]

I installed a Bond ceiling fan controller over the weekend. Works good so far for turning on/off any of the fans & lights throughout the house by voice or schedule.

It learned each of the fans' RF remotes with ease and will do other RF devices like electric fireplaces, etc.

One drawback is that there is a 6 device limit.

 

[Ron Swanson]

l

 

[Ron Swanson]

I installed a Bond ceiling fan controller over the weekend. Works good so far for turning on/off any of the fans & lights throughout the house by voice or schedule.

It learned each of the fans' RF remotes with ease and will do other RF devices like electric fireplaces, etc.

One drawback is that there is a 6 device limit.

Love the Bond.  Saved me multiple fan switches and preserved features as well.  One trick, if you have multiple fans that use the same control you can run them both and have them only count for 1 device of 6.  I have a couple rooms with 2 of the same fan per room and bond controls them perfectly concurrently.

 

[Mr. Ected]

Can you practically use the indoor motion detectors without a bunch of false alarms when you have pets?  

It depends.  I use motion sensors when we are in "Home" mode to turn on and off lights in virtually every room based on motion.  Most lights are set to "turn on when motion detected, turn off after 5 minutes of no motion". I also use some motion sensors that report light level so they are set to "turn on when motion detected and lux is below XXX lux, turn off after 5 minutes of no motion". In either of these cases if the dog walks in the room the lights turn on. Doesn't bother me a bit and if we step out it also leaves me a "light trail" of where she's been.

If we put the system in night or away mode now the motion sensors are used for alarming.  In this case, I'm not worried about the Dog because she is in the bedroom with us or at the boarders. I don't turn on the alarm with just the Dog home but I do arm all the cameras.

I believe the location and 'aiming' of the sensors comes into play, also. When I used the security that was in my house when I bought it, I could only set the alarms for the exterior items, because the cats would set them off (especially one near a stairway). When I changed providers, and had new stuff installed, I mentioned this to the guy who was doing the installation, he  took care of this by locations and heights, and everything works.

Now take into account that the original sensors were old in 2010 when I moved into the house, so newer sensors may be able to deal with smaller sized creatures.

 

[Chaka]

The only benefit is to prevent people who turn of the switch from defeating your automations. If the automations are good enough that they never look for a switch this won't be a problem. IE, if you set up motion sensors to turn on/off the lights when someone enters the room they likely will never look for the switch. Bigger rooms are usually OK. Smaller rooms, like bathrooms people start feeling for the switch when they walk in and flip it before the motion sensor catches them. 

I have had good luck with Cree Connected lights. I run some direct to SmartThings and some through the Hue hub to SmartThings.  Hues are good but not worth the premium $$ in most cases. Stay far, far away from the GE Link bulbs.  I'm not even sure if they're still on the market but they suck.

I've also had good luck with the Home Depot house brand (Commercial Electric) replacement LED can lights with built-in Zigbee.  I use a Lightify device type to enable color and dimming control.

It looks like there isn't a huge premium for equivalent Hue bulbs compared to Cree or Sengled.  For a dimmable 60W equivalent you pay $10/bulb for Philips and Sengled and almost $14 for the Cree.  Looking at the specs I think these are the same bulb.  It looks like you start to pay the premium when you get to the Philips Amiance line.

 

[Ron Swanson]

It looks like there isn't a huge premium for equivalent Hue bulbs compared to Cree or Sengled.  For a dimmable 60W equivalent you pay $10/bulb for Philips and Sengled and almost $14 for the Cree.  Looking at the specs I think these are the same bulb.  It looks like you start to pay the premium when you get to the Philips Amiance line.

Looks like times have changed.  When I last bought bulbs I picked up the Cree's for 7-8 a bulb on sale at HD and Philips were closer to 20 for the lux no color bulbs.  Once you get into the colored Phillips bulbs they really get crazy. Those are the ones I was referring to above...I mostly associate Phillips with the trick color bulbs. 

 

[Worm]

Is there a home security system that you can set to ring an alarm through google home speakers in addition to a smartphone alert?

 

[sho nuff]

Any suggestions on cheap cameras, there’s been a wave of break ins in our zip code. 

Coming to look for the same thing.

Seems so far to be teen to early 20 year old aged people breaking into cars in the neighborhood.  Camera options sound good, but not sure how great since people who have been talking about it in the neighborhood have all been posting the grainy videos of these break ins.

Still we have an old school alarm system at the house...Ive been looking to upgrade to doorbell, one or two out door cameras an a system that sends me updates rather than paying someone to monitor the dang thing.

 

[top dog]

If you go with smartthings, the hampton bay wink fan controller works well once you install the custom device handlers. I have 2 of my fans automated with that. Controls the lights and fans on a standard ceiling fan with pull chains. Easy enough to install. Paired with with he hampton bay rf wall switch and you are good to go. 

 

[top dog]

If you have an older home that doesn't have neutral wires in some places like I do, it can get challenging to automate some of your switches. There is an older Jaco switch you can still buy on amazon that doesn't require a neutral. You may end up with a flicker in the lights due to the LED bulbs not having a voltage leak. I got around that by putting in one incadescant bulb in the fixture with an LED bulb. Not ideal, but was easier than running a neutral to the box.