Any Trading Cards guys? (Sports, etc) (2 Viewers)

[skol asylum]

I've got a bunch of cards I should probably get rid of for the space. Probably nothing of great value. What's a good online source to try value them? I've tried the Coll X app and scanned a few. I just want a price guide with a average values or whatever. Not looking to price every card, just figured Id go through and pull out anything of value before just giving them away basically. I have 3 Topps Jerry Rice rookie cards. Those used to be worth something. Not sure what they are now.

 

[comfortably numb]

I've got a bunch of cards I should probably get rid of for the space. Probably nothing of great value. What's a good online source to try value them? I've tried the Coll X app and scanned a few. I just want a price guide with a average values or whatever. Not looking to price every card, just figured Id go through and pull out anything of value before just giving them away basically. I have 3 Topps Jerry Rice rookie cards. Those used to be worth something. Not sure what they are now.

What years?
People always say look up sold listings on ebay but...yea....that can be exhausting if you have tons of cards and are going through all of them.
Post pics here if you want.
I (or others) can tell you what is worth something fairly quickly

 

[Major]

I've got a bunch of cards I should probably get rid of for the space. Probably nothing of great value. What's a good online source to try value them? I've tried the Coll X app and scanned a few. I just want a price guide with a average values or whatever. Not looking to price every card, just figured Id go through and pull out anything of value before just giving them away basically. I have 3 Topps Jerry Rice rookie cards. Those used to be worth something. Not sure what they are now.

If they're from the junk wax era, you probably don't have much (sans special editions like Topps Tiffany, Fleer Glossy, Desert Storm cards etc). Everything from that time is really predicated on condition. Those Rice rookies could be worth thousands If graded and in Gem Mint condition but likely in the $40-50 range. You can get a feel for the value here just don't look at PSA 10 as getting that grade is like winning the lottery: https://www.psacard.com/cardfacts/football-cards/1986-topps/jerry-rice-161/12534

 

[Nathan R. Jessep]

What do you all think this is worth, just got it back.

Certification Verification 83497111

PSA Certification Verification allows collectors to verify the validity of their PSA & PSA/DNA-certified cards and collectibles.

www.psacard.com

Looks like a CSG 9.5 went for $475. https://www.ebay.com/itm/276127055612

You've got a 1 of 1 right now it looks like. List high. 4 digits easy, I'd say.

 

[IC FBGCav]

What do you all think this is worth, just got it back.

Certification Verification 83497111

PSA Certification Verification allows collectors to verify the validity of their PSA & PSA/DNA-certified cards and collectibles.

www.psacard.com

Looks like a CSG 9.5 went for $475. https://www.ebay.com/itm/276127055612

You've got a 1 of 1 right now it looks like. List high. 4 digits easy, I'd say.

The tricky question is how much more valuable is a psa 10?

 

[Nathan R. Jessep]

What do you all think this is worth, just got it back.

Certification Verification 83497111

PSA Certification Verification allows collectors to verify the validity of their PSA & PSA/DNA-certified cards and collectibles.

www.psacard.com

Looks like a CSG 9.5 went for $475. https://www.ebay.com/itm/276127055612

You've got a 1 of 1 right now it looks like. List high. 4 digits easy, I'd say.

The tricky question is how much more valuable is a psa 10?

than a CSG? I'd say significantly. PSA and BGS seem to be the big dogs on the grading scene (unless that has changed recently). Also 10 is the highest grade for PSA, while 9.5 is the second highest grade for CSG, so yours should command a premium even if just for that reason. If you do list, I'd be sure and and put "Pop 1" and "1/1" in the description and title. I'd probably spend the extra to promote it as well for a big hit like that one.

 

[Major]

What do you all think this is worth, just got it back.

Certification Verification 83497111

PSA Certification Verification allows collectors to verify the validity of their PSA & PSA/DNA-certified cards and collectibles.

www.psacard.com

Looks like a CSG 9.5 went for $475. https://www.ebay.com/itm/276127055612

You've got a 1 of 1 right now it looks like. List high. 4 digits easy, I'd say.

The tricky question is how much more valuable is a psa 10?

A lot more is my best answer. 1/1 PSA 10 is a be patient and find the right buyer type thing. I wouldn't risk it at a no limit auction or by selling to a random dealer at 'market' price. Ask for the moon and see what happens.

 

[IC FBGCav]

I contacted a card shop in Edmonton and sent the link to the card and asked me what I wanted. I said 70% of the value. They wouldn't give me a value.

 

[Major]

I contacted a card shop in Edmonton and sent the link to the card and asked me what I wanted. I said 70% of the value. They wouldn't give me a value.

That's the tricky thing is the market value could be anything much like a rare piece of art, etc. If someone really likes that player and has to have the card, they will pay up. A dealer will play it conservatively and low ball the upside. Good luck with it! Must have been awesome to pull something like that.

 

[Zegras11]

Bought the 1959 Topps baseball entire set for Xmas. The cards are in solid shape for being this old. Corners are all good.

Bought the 1969 Topps baseball set tonight. That was my second year of collecting cards when I was nine. Looking forward to getting it

 

[comfortably numb]

Bought the 1959 Topps baseball entire set for Xmas. The cards are in solid shape for being this old. Corners are all good.

Bought the 1969 Topps baseball set tonight. That was my second year of collecting cards when I was nine. Looking forward to getting it

So awesome man.
2 nice sets.

 

[Schmeabs]

Any recommendations for the best Wemby rookie card? Are they available to purchase yet? I prefer to buy packs rather than just buy the card. Thanks!

 

[Brunell4MVP]

I'm sure this has been covered in this thread, but can someone tell me the best way to unload 1975-1995 cards? I know there are some good ones in my stack ... Rickie Henderson rookie for example. Most are in good condition, but aren't gonna be a 10. Maybe like an 8-9. And looking up the value of each of these thousands of cards one by one is not gonna happen because I'm lazy.

Should I get them graded? Or take the stack of ones I think are good to a card store?

 

[Courtjester]

Any recommendations for the best Wemby rookie card? Are they available to purchase yet? I prefer to buy packs rather than just buy the card. Thanks!

Most of the early sets currently do not have him in his Spurs uniform. Your best bet to get a Wemby rookie in his NBA uniform from a pack would be 2023-24 Panini Hoops. He doesn't have an auto in this set, but it is a fun, affordable set to break. He has a couple inserts and there are some other decent rookies in this set as well as plenty of other chances for autos/insterts. It is not going to set this world on fire as far how much it is worth, but if you are just wanting to get one, it is the way to go.


I always recommend this site for people looking for info on card sets and such---- Cardboard Connection

I opened a few packs of this yesterday and got a pretty sweet Scoot Henderson, which ended up being the case break card, which is pretty rare.

 

[Courtjester]

I'm sure this has been covered in this thread, but can someone tell me the best way to unload 1975-1995 cards? I know there are some good ones in my stack ... Rickie Henderson rookie for example. Most are in good condition, but aren't gonna be a 10. Maybe like an 8-9. And looking up the value of each of these thousands of cards one by one is not gonna happen because I'm lazy.

Should I get them graded? Or take the stack of ones I think are good to a card store?

Depends on what you are looking to do with them. If you just want them gone, you could list them on FB marketplace and see what happens. Rickie Henderson signs a ton of product as he is a regular on the card show circuit, so his cards are easily found on EBAY. Looking at recent sales on EBAY, a non-graded one (in good shape) fetches $40-$70. but condition is everything.

How many cards are we talking here?

 

[Desert_Power]

Any recommendations for the best Wemby rookie card? Are they available to purchase yet? I prefer to buy packs rather than just buy the card. Thanks!

Most of the early sets currently do not have him in his Spurs uniform. Your best bet to get a Wemby rookie in his NBA uniform from a pack would be 2023-24 Panini Hoops. He doesn't have an auto in this set, but it is a fun, affordable set to break. He has a couple inserts and there are some other decent rookies in this set as well as plenty of other chances for autos/insterts. It is not going to set this world on fire as far how much it is worth, but if you are just wanting to get one, it is the way to go.

I opened a few packs of this yesterday and got a pretty sweet Scoot Henderson, which ended up being the case break card, which is pretty rare.

Hoops is a good rip.

 

[Major]

I'm sure this has been covered in this thread, but can someone tell me the best way to unload 1975-1995 cards? I know there are some good ones in my stack ... Rickie Henderson rookie for example. Most are in good condition, but aren't gonna be a 10. Maybe like an 8-9. And looking up the value of each of these thousands of cards one by one is not gonna happen because I'm lazy.

Should I get them graded? Or take the stack of ones I think are good to a card store?

You'll definitely get the most value by getting them graded but that's assuming they grade high. There's also a big cost involved in time and money. I will warn you, those cards you think are 8-9s are probably 5-7s so adjust your expectations accordingly. Go on Ebay and look at sold auctions in those grade ranges to see if it's worth it. You can also compare what the grade ranges look like there or on PSA's site. There's very subtle differences that we often ignored growing up.

If you have a card dealer you trust, bring in the stack to get a feel for the ungraded market. They'll give you an idea on condition and value. It's very humbling experience so much so that I decided to keep my ungraded 70-80s cards. They just printed too much of them and unless gem mint most dealers don't want to touch them.

 

[The Commish]

Bought the 1959 Topps baseball entire set for Xmas. The cards are in solid shape for being this old. Corners are all good.

Bought the 1969 Topps baseball set tonight. That was my second year of collecting cards when I was nine. Looking forward to getting it

Have a 57 set that has a handful of cards id like to upgrade. Fortunately they are all commons.

 

[Brunell4MVP]

I've got a bunch of cards I should probably get rid of for the space. Probably nothing of great value. What's a good online source to try value them? I've tried the Coll X app and scanned a few. I just want a price guide with a average values or whatever. Not looking to price every card, just figured Id go through and pull out anything of value before just giving them away basically. I have 3 Topps Jerry Rice rookie cards. Those used to be worth something. Not sure what they are now.

What years?
People always say look up sold listings on ebay but...yea....that can be exhausting if you have tons of cards and are going through all of them.
Post pics here if you want.
I (or others) can tell you what is worth something fairly quickly

Cool. Mostly 1978 - 1982 Topps baseball and football. Not complete sets. But maybe 1000 cards. I'll dig through some of them this week. heck I got ET, Star Wars, CLose Encouters of the Third Kind, and Mork and Mindy cards in there

 

[comfortably numb]

I've got a bunch of cards I should probably get rid of for the space. Probably nothing of great value. What's a good online source to try value them? I've tried the Coll X app and scanned a few. I just want a price guide with a average values or whatever. Not looking to price every card, just figured Id go through and pull out anything of value before just giving them away basically. I have 3 Topps Jerry Rice rookie cards. Those used to be worth something. Not sure what they are now.

What years?
People always say look up sold listings on ebay but...yea....that can be exhausting if you have tons of cards and are going through all of them.
Post pics here if you want.
I (or others) can tell you what is worth something fairly quickly

Cool. Mostly 1978 - 1982 Topps baseball and football. Not complete sets. But maybe 1000 cards. I'll dig through some of them this week. heck I got ET, Star Wars, CLose Encouters of the Third Kind, and Mork and Mindy cards in there

If its only those years you are only looking at Ricky Ozzie Ripken and Montana as the names of cards worth anything. actually...the Star Wars may be your best cards if there are desirable one.
When i say worth anything I'm talking $20-$60 for each.
Grading can be fun and lucrative but really needs to hit to be worth it. If you can spot an obvious flaw in any of those you won't get more than a 6 if you are lucky which almost makes it not worth grading. Send some pics and someone here can help

 

[Mitchie]

About 30 years ago walked into a card/comic shop and bought 4 packs of unopened 1981 football cards for $1. One of the packs contained Montana's rookie card. I put in a card binder and haven't touched it since (nothing appears off center, etc.). What are the chances it's a PSA 10?

 

[Lehigh98]

About 30 years ago walked into a card/comic shop and bought 4 packs of unopened 1981 football cards for $1. One of the packs contained Montana's rookie card. I put in a card binder and haven't touched it since (nothing appears off center, etc.). What are the chances it's a PSA 10?

PSA population report shows that out of 27,706 submissions, 111 have graded 10. Most were 8's then 7's then 6's.

 

[Mitchie]

About 30 years ago walked into a card/comic shop and bought 4 packs of unopened 1981 football cards for $1. One of the packs contained Montana's rookie card. I put in a card binder and haven't touched it since (nothing appears off center, etc.). What are the chances it's a PSA 10?

PSA population report shows that out of 27,706 submissions, 111 have graded 10. Most were 8's then 7's then 6's.

thanks for that info, guess just wondering based on the criteria of being taken right from opening a pack and not really touching it ever what the likelihood of it being a 10

 

[Desert_Power]

About 30 years ago walked into a card/comic shop and bought 4 packs of unopened 1981 football cards for $1. One of the packs contained Montana's rookie card. I put in a card binder and haven't touched it since (nothing appears off center, etc.). What are the chances it's a PSA 10?

PSA population report shows that out of 27,706 submissions, 111 have graded 10. Most were 8's then 7's then 6's.

thanks for that info, guess just wondering based on the criteria of being taken right from opening a pack and not really touching it ever what the likelihood of it being a 10

How is the centering? The corners? any other visible defects?

 

[Major]

About 30 years ago walked into a card/comic shop and bought 4 packs of unopened 1981 football cards for $1. One of the packs contained Montana's rookie card. I put in a card binder and haven't touched it since (nothing appears off center, etc.). What are the chances it's a PSA 10?

PSA population report shows that out of 27,706 submissions, 111 have graded 10. Most were 8's then 7's then 6's.

thanks for that info, guess just wondering based on the criteria of being taken right from opening a pack and not really touching it ever what the likelihood of it being a 10

Very low. Post a picture of it and we can give you an idea. Sight unseen I'd say an 8 is probably your upside. I've seen vintage pack openings online, card goes straight from pack to sleeve and the card gets a 6 or 7. The centering (front and back) is normally the issue along with printing anomalies.

 

[Mitchie]

About 30 years ago walked into a card/comic shop and bought 4 packs of unopened 1981 football cards for $1. One of the packs contained Montana's rookie card. I put in a card binder and haven't touched it since (nothing appears off center, etc.). What are the chances it's a PSA 10?

PSA population report shows that out of 27,706 submissions, 111 have graded 10. Most were 8's then 7's then 6's.

thanks for that info, guess just wondering based on the criteria of being taken right from opening a pack and not really touching it ever what the likelihood of it being a 10

Very low. Post a picture of it and we can give you an idea. Sight unseen I'd say an 8 is probably your upside. I've seen vintage pack openings online, card goes straight from pack to sleeve and the card gets a 6 or 7. The centering (front and back) is normally the issue along with printing anomalies.

not sure how to post a pic here, but looking at more closely (hadn't looked at it in a while) the white space on the left does seem to be wider than space on right, so not perfectly centered, so guess best can hope for is maybe a 9?

 

[Courtjester]

About 30 years ago walked into a card/comic shop and bought 4 packs of unopened 1981 football cards for $1. One of the packs contained Montana's rookie card. I put in a card binder and haven't touched it since (nothing appears off center, etc.). What are the chances it's a PSA 10?

PSA population report shows that out of 27,706 submissions, 111 have graded 10. Most were 8's then 7's then 6's.

thanks for that info, guess just wondering based on the criteria of being taken right from opening a pack and not really touching it ever what the likelihood of it being a 10

Very low. Post a picture of it and we can give you an idea. Sight unseen I'd say an 8 is probably your upside. I've seen vintage pack openings online, card goes straight from pack to sleeve and the card gets a 6 or 7. The centering (front and back) is normally the issue along with printing anomalies.

not sure how to post a pic here, but looking at more closely (hadn't looked at it in a while) the white space on the left does seem to be wider than space on right, so not perfectly centered, so guess best can hope for is maybe a 9?

Like others have said, the older stuff has constant off-centering problems and packaging issues. I do not get cards graded for this exact reason, but then again I am primarily a collector. I was going to send a few 86 Fleer Basketball cards into PSA and then I took my jewelers loop out and really looked at the cards and decided it is not worth it. Surface scratches, coloring issues, centering and any kind of corner dings rule out getting a high grade and negates the costs of grading.

 

[Major]

Like others have said, the older stuff has constant off-centering problems and packaging issues. I do not get cards graded for this exact reason, but then again I am primarily a collector. I was going to send a few 86 Fleer Basketball cards into PSA and then I took my jewelers loop out and really looked at the cards and decided it is not worth it. Surface scratches, coloring issues, centering and any kind of corner dings rule out getting a high grade and negates the costs of grading.

Cosign. Grading has also become much more stringent. When I was collecting in 80s/early 90s you primarily looked at surface for creases, corners and centering. 55/45 and even 60/40 was mint and surface stretches were often ignored. For those 89 Upper Deck cards, we never paid attention to the condition of the hologram on the back and if it was centered. That still cracks me up. Crazy all the levels that have developed over the years.

 

[Major]

About 30 years ago walked into a card/comic shop and bought 4 packs of unopened 1981 football cards for $1. One of the packs contained Montana's rookie card. I put in a card binder and haven't touched it since (nothing appears off center, etc.). What are the chances it's a PSA 10?

PSA population report shows that out of 27,706 submissions, 111 have graded 10. Most were 8's then 7's then 6's.

thanks for that info, guess just wondering based on the criteria of being taken right from opening a pack and not really touching it ever what the likelihood of it being a 10

Very low. Post a picture of it and we can give you an idea. Sight unseen I'd say an 8 is probably your upside. I've seen vintage pack openings online, card goes straight from pack to sleeve and the card gets a 6 or 7. The centering (front and back) is normally the issue along with printing anomalies.

not sure how to post a pic here, but looking at more closely (hadn't looked at it in a while) the white space on the left does seem to be wider than space on right, so not perfectly centered, so guess best can hope for is maybe a 9?

Doesn't sound like a 9. 6 or 7 imo. Have a look:

1981 Topps - #216 Joe Montana (RC) for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1981 Topps - #216 Joe Montana (RC) at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[Mitchie]

About 30 years ago walked into a card/comic shop and bought 4 packs of unopened 1981 football cards for $1. One of the packs contained Montana's rookie card. I put in a card binder and haven't touched it since (nothing appears off center, etc.). What are the chances it's a PSA 10?

PSA population report shows that out of 27,706 submissions, 111 have graded 10. Most were 8's then 7's then 6's.

thanks for that info, guess just wondering based on the criteria of being taken right from opening a pack and not really touching it ever what the likelihood of it being a 10

Very low. Post a picture of it and we can give you an idea. Sight unseen I'd say an 8 is probably your upside. I've seen vintage pack openings online, card goes straight from pack to sleeve and the card gets a 6 or 7. The centering (front and back) is normally the issue along with printing anomalies.

not sure how to post a pic here, but looking at more closely (hadn't looked at it in a while) the white space on the left does seem to be wider than space on right, so not perfectly centered, so guess best can hope for is maybe a 9?

Doesn't sound like a 9. 6 or 7 imo. Have a look:

1981 Topps - #216 Joe Montana (RC) for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1981 Topps - #216 Joe Montana (RC) at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

i'm far from an expert and you know much more than I but seems hard to tell too much from a pic, i mean looks like there's a tiny bit of fraying on the left side but who knows

 

[Major]

About 30 years ago walked into a card/comic shop and bought 4 packs of unopened 1981 football cards for $1. One of the packs contained Montana's rookie card. I put in a card binder and haven't touched it since (nothing appears off center, etc.). What are the chances it's a PSA 10?

PSA population report shows that out of 27,706 submissions, 111 have graded 10. Most were 8's then 7's then 6's.

thanks for that info, guess just wondering based on the criteria of being taken right from opening a pack and not really touching it ever what the likelihood of it being a 10

Very low. Post a picture of it and we can give you an idea. Sight unseen I'd say an 8 is probably your upside. I've seen vintage pack openings online, card goes straight from pack to sleeve and the card gets a 6 or 7. The centering (front and back) is normally the issue along with printing anomalies.

not sure how to post a pic here, but looking at more closely (hadn't looked at it in a while) the white space on the left does seem to be wider than space on right, so not perfectly centered, so guess best can hope for is maybe a 9?

Doesn't sound like a 9. 6 or 7 imo. Have a look:

1981 Topps - #216 Joe Montana (RC) for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1981 Topps - #216 Joe Montana (RC) at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

i'm far from an expert and you know much more than I but seems hard to tell too much from a pic, i mean looks like there's a tiny bit of fraying on the left side but who knows

It's a crap shoot. I think a lot depends on the grader and what type of mood they're in. Population control is also a real thing. I also think PSA tends to give higher grades to their best customers but that's just me.

 

[jvdesigns2002]

I think there is a misconception that just because a card goes straight from being pulled from a pack to immediate protection (a penny sleeve+top loader, in a protected binder, a one touch..etc) that it will most likely get a 9 or a 10. Even with modern day quality control standards—going straight from pack to a top loader will probably on average maybe get you a psa 8-9. Back in the day, the quality control standards and printing technology was far worse than it is today. Centering, staining, whiting and surface fraying along edges, rounded out corners were all very common for cards coming directly out of packs. I would venture to say that less than 10% of the cards from the 90’s or before would have a legitimate shot at PSA 10’s even if they were pulled from packs wearing gloves and immediately put into protective sleeves. Also, keep in mind some of the old protective sleeves were actually harmful to the cards and could cause surface issues. Some of the screwdown cases that didn’t have slots to where the card fits would actually press down very hard on the surface of the card. Some of the older binder plastic protector sheets could stick to the surface of the cards..etc. Most cards that get submitted today that get 10’s are very closely evaluated—using jewelers loupes, apps that help determine the front and back centering of the card, and very carefully going over the card with a microfiber cloth to wipe off any dust or fingerprints. When you sell a collection—do not expect to get top dollar for it. There is A LOT of work to go through, process, evaluate, work on the cards with potential—only to then be subject to a lot of grading fees—in hopes of getting favorable grades that kept the purchase and all of that work profitable. Not only that—there is a good chance that the grading process itself takes a few months—and the market can change while you are waiting for the results.

 

[Chadstroma]

My kid went through his Pokemon cards and was using Google image to price out the values. I told him when he was done there were some of my old baseball/football/basketball cards he could do as well.

A Deon Sanders came back as $1K then he rescan it and it was like $14. I started looking deeper and it seems to me that what he is using is unreliable.

Back in my day a Beckett was the way to price out cards. What is THE way to do it now short of paying a bunch of money?

 

[Major]

My kid went through his Pokemon cards and was using Google image to price out the values. I told him when he was done there were some of my old baseball/football/basketball cards he could do as well.

A Deon Sanders came back as $1K then he rescan it and it was like $14. I started looking deeper and it seems to me that what he is using is unreliable.

Back in my day a Beckett was the way to price out cards. What is THE way to do it now short of paying a bunch of money?

Ebay sold/completed auctions are a good start because you get an idea of what folks are willing to pay but you have to get a handle on the condition and potential PSA grade of the cards. Condition is everything.

 

[Chadstroma]

My kid went through his Pokemon cards and was using Google image to price out the values. I told him when he was done there were some of my old baseball/football/basketball cards he could do as well.

A Deon Sanders came back as $1K then he rescan it and it was like $14. I started looking deeper and it seems to me that what he is using is unreliable.

Back in my day a Beckett was the way to price out cards. What is THE way to do it now short of paying a bunch of money?

Ebay sold/completed auctions are a good start because you get an idea of what folks are willing to pay but you have to get a handle on the condition and potential PSA grade of the cards. Condition is everything.

Yea, trying to get an idea if there are any cards worthwhile to get graded.

 

[Snotbubbles]

I got a bunch of cards from the 80s and 90s. The really good ones are in protective cases. I should go through them and get rid of them. Probably $500 worth of cards easy.

 

[Nathan R. Jessep]

I haven't gotten any older cards graded yet (I've got an entire album full of post-rookie-year MJs to break out), but I have submitted a couple of batches to BGS, although it's been 5-10 years ago now. I'd say to anyone looking at your personal collection, scrutinize them very closely, then go back and double that scrutiny. I submitted ones I had carefully picked out of a big stack, checking mainly centering and corners, and I got back 2 9's and the rest were worse. I was disappointed to say the least. All that to say... temper your expectations if sending in for grading. 10s are hard to come by, and I think the older the card, the harder it is. That's why you see these older 10s selling for ridiculous amounts of $. Those are the exception not the rule. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Major]

I got a bunch of cards from the 80s and 90s. The really good ones are in protective cases. I should go through them and get rid of them. Probably $500 worth of cards easy.

All I'll say with such limited information is temper your expectations. Unless we're talking early Fleer/Star Basketball or Topps Tiffany, those are probably the worst years to collect due to overprinting/excess supply. I'll definitely take the under

 

[Chadstroma]

I got a bunch of cards from the 80s and 90s. The really good ones are in protective cases. I should go through them and get rid of them. Probably $500 worth of cards easy.

All I'll say with such limited information is temper your expectations. Unless we're talking early Fleer/Star Basketball or Topps Tiffany, those are probably the worst years to collect due to overprinting/excess supply. I'll definitely take the under

I was like "this one is gonna be a lot, look it up" $15.

 

[Chadstroma]

I haven't gotten any older cards graded yet (I've got an entire album full of post-rookie-year MJs to break out), but I have submitted a couple of batches to BGS, although it's been 5-10 years ago now. I'd say to anyone looking at your personal collection, scrutinize them very closely, then go back and double that scrutiny. I submitted ones I had carefully picked out of a big stack, checking mainly centering and corners, and I got back 2 9's and the rest were worse. I was disappointed to say the least. All that to say... temper your expectations if sending in for grading. 10s are hard to come by, and I think the older the card, the harder it is. That's why you see these older 10s selling for ridiculous amounts of $. Those are the exception not the rule. Just my 2 cents.

Yea, I remember 10's are like nearly impossible to get. I was trying to explain that to my son.

 

[Major]

I got a bunch of cards from the 80s and 90s. The really good ones are in protective cases. I should go through them and get rid of them. Probably $500 worth of cards easy.

All I'll say with such limited information is temper your expectations. Unless we're talking early Fleer/Star Basketball or Topps Tiffany, those are probably the worst years to collect due to overprinting/excess supply. I'll definitely take the under

I was like "this one is gonna be a lot, look it up" $15.

Yep, it kinda hurts when you think back to how much you spent back in the day but I still enjoy the memories. All those stud 80s baseball rookies like Clemens, Canseco, McGwire, Puckett, Bonds etc are all worth fractions of what they once were. There are a few cards in traded/speciality sets or error cards which hold value but regular issue not so much. Seems like in the 80s, unless you have a mint Rickey Henderson (near impossible) or a mint 89 UD Griffey, we're likely talking single digit value. The crux is to extract higher value you'd have to send the card in to get graded and that's probably going to cost more than the card is worth.

 

[Chadstroma]

I got a bunch of cards from the 80s and 90s. The really good ones are in protective cases. I should go through them and get rid of them. Probably $500 worth of cards easy.

All I'll say with such limited information is temper your expectations. Unless we're talking early Fleer/Star Basketball or Topps Tiffany, those are probably the worst years to collect due to overprinting/excess supply. I'll definitely take the under

I was like "this one is gonna be a lot, look it up" $15.

Yep, it kinda hurts when you think back to how much you spent back in the day but I still enjoy the memories. All those stud 80s baseball rookies like Clemens, Canseco, McGwire, Puckett, Bonds etc are all worth fractions of what they once were. There are a few cards in traded/speciality sets or error cards which hold value but regular issue not so much. Seems like in the 80s, unless you have a mint Rickey Henderson (near impossible) or a mint 89 UD Griffey, we're likely talking single digit value. The crux is to extract higher value you'd have to send the card in to get graded and that's probably going to cost more than the card is worth.

Damn, I remember the Canseco rookie card was like "if you have one of those, you can just retire now at age 10." I bet it is like $100 these days. Then again, it prob was about $100 back then too. I don't remember but back then $100 was like you were rich.

 

[Major]

Damn, I remember the Canseco rookie card was like "if you have one of those, you can just retire now at age 10." I bet it is like $100 these days. Then again, it prob was about $100 back then too. I don't remember but back then $100 was like you were rich.

Yeah, that 86 Donruss Canseco and 84 Donruss Mattingly were the holy grails when I was a kid. I used to look at those cards in awe booking in at $100 each. Both can probably be had for $10-20 now

I haven't collected in decades but packs of some of these newer sets start well above $100. It's all about refractors, autographs and limited editions. It seems like you're just buying expensive lottery tickets with hopes of a big hit. Here you can get a box of 2023 Panini for $2250. Each box contains one pack of 10 cards

2023 Panini Flawless Baseball Hobby Box

(7) Autograph Cards, (2) Memorabilia Cards, and (1) Gem Card in Every Box!

www.midwestcards.com

 

[Courtjester]

Damn, I remember the Canseco rookie card was like "if you have one of those, you can just retire now at age 10." I bet it is like $100 these days. Then again, it prob was about $100 back then too. I don't remember but back then $100 was like you were rich.

Yeah, that 86 Donruss Canseco and 84 Donruss Mattingly were the holy grails when I was a kid. I used to look at those cards in awe booking in at $100 each. Both can probably be had for $10-20 now

I haven't collected in decades but packs of some of these newer sets start well above $100. It's all about refractors, autographs and limited editions. It seems like you're just buying expensive lottery tickets with hopes of a big hit. Here you can get a box of 2023 Panini for $2250. Each box contains one pack of 10 cards

2023 Panini Flawless Baseball Hobby Box

(7) Autograph Cards, (2) Memorabilia Cards, and (1) Gem Card in Every Box!

www.midwestcards.com

Hobby wax is untouchable for most at this point. I buy some retail stuff just to scratch my itch of opening packs. I have watched several Tiktok videos of guys I follow and trust and seeing them bust Prism and getting absolutely skunked on their purchases is crippling, Keep in mind some of the top rookies are signed exclusively with Fanatics so their autos are not in this product, Singles and going through dollar boxes are the way to go if you are looking to make money right now.

We did jump into Lorcana and frankly missed the boat timing wise. A few months ago when product was scarce, singles went for decent money, but Ravensburger promised to get more product out to the players and now the market is over-saturated. We are still going to continue to buy because my wife loves Disney and these are really nice looking cards. Plus as I have said before in this thread, the key to getting to buy more of what you like is to get your significant other involved in some shape or form. I love Lego and I have my wife hooked, so I tell her I will make the "sacrifice" to take her to buy Lego, but I make sure to have something for me when we leave.

 

[Chadstroma]

Damn, I remember the Canseco rookie card was like "if you have one of those, you can just retire now at age 10." I bet it is like $100 these days. Then again, it prob was about $100 back then too. I don't remember but back then $100 was like you were rich.

Yeah, that 86 Donruss Canseco and 84 Donruss Mattingly were the holy grails when I was a kid. I used to look at those cards in awe booking in at $100 each. Both can probably be had for $10-20 now

I haven't collected in decades but packs of some of these newer sets start well above $100. It's all about refractors, autographs and limited editions. It seems like you're just buying expensive lottery tickets with hopes of a big hit. Here you can get a box of 2023 Panini for $2250. Each box contains one pack of 10 cards

2023 Panini Flawless Baseball Hobby Box

(7) Autograph Cards, (2) Memorabilia Cards, and (1) Gem Card in Every Box!

www.midwestcards.com

Hobby wax is untouchable for most at this point. I buy some retail stuff just to scratch my itch of opening packs. I have watched several Tiktok videos of guys I follow and trust and seeing them bust Prism and getting absolutely skunked on their purchases is crippling, Keep in mind some of the top rookies are signed exclusively with Fanatics so their autos are not in this product, Singles and going through dollar boxes are the way to go if you are looking to make money right now.

We did jump into Lorcana and frankly missed the boat timing wise. A few months ago when product was scarce, singles went for decent money, but Ravensburger promised to get more product out to the players and now the market is over-saturated. We are still going to continue to buy because my wife loves Disney and these are really nice looking cards. Plus as I have said before in this thread, the key to getting to buy more of what you like is to get your significant other involved in some shape or form. I love Lego and I have my wife hooked, so I tell her I will make the "sacrifice" to take her to buy Lego, but I make sure to have something for me when we leave.

The words look like English but...

 

[comfortably numb]

I haven't gotten any older cards graded yet (I've got an entire album full of post-rookie-year MJs to break out), but I have submitted a couple of batches to BGS, although it's been 5-10 years ago now. I'd say to anyone looking at your personal collection, scrutinize them very closely, then go back and double that scrutiny. I submitted ones I had carefully picked out of a big stack, checking mainly centering and corners, and I got back 2 9's and the rest were worse. I was disappointed to say the least. All that to say... temper your expectations if sending in for grading. 10s are hard to come by, and I think the older the card, the harder it is. That's why you see these older 10s selling for ridiculous amounts of $. Those are the exception not the rule. Just my 2 cents.

BGS 10s are even harder than PSA 10s for what its worth

 

[shuke]

Damn, I remember the Canseco rookie card was like "if you have one of those, you can just retire now at age 10." I bet it is like $100 these days

Oh, son.

 

[shuke]

Everyone thinks they have a bunch of 9's and 10's in their collection. Hint: you don't.

 

[Snotbubbles]

I got a bunch of cards from the 80s and 90s. The really good ones are in protective cases. I should go through them and get rid of them. Probably $500 worth of cards easy.

All I'll say with such limited information is temper your expectations. Unless we're talking early Fleer/Star Basketball or Topps Tiffany, those are probably the worst years to collect due to overprinting/excess supply. I'll definitely take the under

I was like "this one is gonna be a lot, look it up" $15.

Yep, it kinda hurts when you think back to how much you spent back in the day but I still enjoy the memories. All those stud 80s baseball rookies like Clemens, Canseco, McGwire, Puckett, Bonds etc are all worth fractions of what they once were. There are a few cards in traded/speciality sets or error cards which hold value but regular issue not so much. Seems like in the 80s, unless you have a mint Rickey Henderson (near impossible) or a mint 89 UD Griffey, we're likely talking single digit value. The crux is to extract higher value you'd have to send the card in to get graded and that's probably going to cost more than the card is worth.

Damn, I remember the Canseco rookie card was like "if you have one of those, you can just retire now at age 10." I bet it is like $100 these days. Then again, it prob was about $100 back then too. I don't remember but back then $100 was like you were rich.

I have the Griffey rookie Upper Deck card (ungraded). I have the 72 Topps Carlton Fisk, Cecil Cooper rookie card I pulled from a Topps hobby set (I think that one is graded 7 or 8). I have some limited edition cards. I had the entire 83 Topps set (Gwynn rookie) but I don't know what happened to them. Yeah, I got the McGwire rookie. Ichiro rookie. I have a Roberto Clemente card. I think I got a Bonds rookie card too.

 

[Snotbubbles]

Everyone thinks they have a bunch of 9's and 10's in their collection. Hint: you don't.

Yeah, I had a card that I pulled straight from the pack to a protective case and got graded and it was only a 7.