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You might be able to find the Nikon 18-200mm at a discount or used at a very reasonable price now. They announced a 18-300mm F3.5/5.6 yesterday. http://www.dpreview.com/news/2012/06/14/Nikon-AF-S-Nikkor-18-300-F3-5-5-6-G-ED-VR-superzoom-lens-launched
Cool, I'll check that out.This might not excite anyone else, but with today's updates to iPhoto and Aperture, both programs will now share the same library. THANK YOU! And it's about time. The fact that two Apple photo apps did not share a single library seemed ridiculous to me.Also, I always thought it was dumb that there wasn't an option to change your desktop photo right from Aperture. They fixed that too.
That's a challenge but right now there's a 20% off code on Canon refurbished. Use code "20SLR612" for 20% off and code "June612" for free shipping but they are supposed to expire June 30th so that won't give you much time to decide.On that budget I would buy...
Do you own a tripod? That's the most important step right there. You're cutting it close but if you are an Amazon Prime member you can get one with good reviews before the 4th. You want low ISO, long exposure shots. Some tripods have a hook at the bottom so you can add weight/stability. Because of the explosive nature of fireworks consider the material that the tripod if made of - aluminum would probably be a poor choice for instance because it does a terrible job of dampening vibration. There are vibration dampening pads on the market...http://www.amazon.com/Celestron-93503-Vibration-Suppression-Pads/dp/B0000665V7/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1341061490&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=camera+vibration+dampening+pad+tripod... but I've never actually used them so I'm not sure how well they work.Get a wireless remote shutter release(they are cheap) and practice using mirror lock up. Again, with long exposures the slightest movement is your enemy and will cause your pics to be soft. Some people suggest a self timer for fireworks and tripod work in general but imo a shutter release is so inexpensive why hassle with the timer?This is pretty obvious but some people forget - disable flash.It's also best to manually focus so the camera isn't "hunting" in the low light. Focus close to infinity.The second most important factor after having a good tripod is scouting the location before hand. You won't want to be moving a tripod/etc in the dark. Reflective surfaces are generally good. Generally speaking higher is better and many people prefer to shoot from a roof. Obviously you don't want any distracting power lines/trees/etc. If possible, set yourself up with the wind at your back - it makes for a cleaner look for you final photos as fireworks generate a great deal of smoke. Avoid potential traffic areas where people may be passing in front of your camera, another reason why a roof is good. I'm probably forgetting some but that's a good start. The general rule of "always bring a backup battery and memory card" really applies here because you only get one chance at this in the next 364 days and you'll probably be taking a much lower % of "keeper" photos than you are accustomed to taking.
Not sure if you're still in the market but I don't think you can beat this deal if you are willing to go up to $600(after mail-in rebates)....Canon EOS Rebel T3 12MP SLR Digital CameraCanon EF 50mm f/1.8 II LensCanon EF-S 18-55mm IS Kit LensCanon EF 75-300mm f/4.0-5.6 III AF Telephoto Zoom Lens8GB SDHC Flash Card + Tripod + Camera BagCanon Pixma Pro9000 Mark II Inkjet Photo PrinterRed Giant Production Bundle: Red Giant Knoll Light Factory for Photoshop, Red Giant Magic Bullet PhotoLooks V1.5 Software, and Red Giant Text Anarchy V2.4 Software with Geomancy and Toolbox Filters, Fxplug Chaos Stock (for PC/MAC and all hosts included)http://www.adorama.com/ICAT3KZ.html?utm_term=Other&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_campaign=Other&utm_source=cj_227502
I've read reviews on that lens that have been pretty positive overall. I think Sigma does a nice job with telephoto lenses in general(stay away from their wide lenses however). Will you be stuck in one endzone or will you have more access around the field? If you can move around more I might try the Canon 70-200/2.8 because of its stellar reputation for image quality. If you are stuck in one place and need to be able to shoot all the way to the opposite endzone I think the Sigma is a great choice given you should have a lot of light to work with. Both are big and heavy and will feel even more so by the 4th quarter. This is a good excuse to buy a quality monopod, invaluable in shooting sports and many other instances as well.Don't take this is as a diss at the T2i(the best value in dSLR imo) but you might find out how much it would cost to rent a 7d for a day(maybe renting together with the lens you'll get a discount). The big reason is the 7d is perfect for sports... 8 frames per second and perhaps more importantly 1/8000th a second shutter time to really freeze the action. There are advantages to having two camera bodies so you can switch back and forth between the cameras throughout the game rather than trying to switch lenses in the harried atmosphere of the game.
1) Elements is your classic image editor. Lightroom is more of a program to manage your photos that also allows you to edit photos.2) Lightroom has the Heal and Clone tools so you can remove objects but special effects certainly aren't its strength. It will let you keep a single object in color....http://digital-photography-school.com/highlight-color-effect-in-lightroom-5-easy-steps... but if special effects are important to your father he'll likely want Elements.I would start with Lightroom and if there's something he can't do with Lightroom then add Elements. If you can get your hands on a .edu email address you can get Lightroom very inexpensively.
I'd be wary of the Sigma lens--it's slow and the AF is probably slow too.Check out www.lensrentals.com He has a good reputation on www.photography-on-the.net You will also find a ton of expertise over there.
Looks about right to me for the gear you will be carrying (maye a little bigger than you need) - but the price is right compared to what you would get with a Tamrac bag. The shoulder sling bags are great for quick access to the equipment.
schnikes.
What lens did you use for that?
This is chet we're talking about...he used his regular ol' 18-55.But he was cruising around in his private rocket, so he had a little better vantage point.
Looks like a better deal. Spec-wise they're identical.
I'm looking at upgrading my camera (currently have the Rebel XTi) and have a little dough to spend. I'd love to jump up to full frame and get a Mark 5 II, but it's so so hard to justify spending over $1,500 on something that is still just a hobby. Since I do 90% photo and only 10% video, I'm thinking about grabbing a T3i and upgrade glass while I'm at it... The Sigma 17-50 might be a nice upgrade too.
The Sigma is designated "OS"(optical stabilization) but I don't see the Tamron designated as "VC"(vibration compensation) so I'm assuming it doesn't have it. It's a fast lens and only goes to 50mm but still, some people would choose to pay extra for the optical stabilization.I've read reviews where the Sigma gets slightly higher marks for optical quality than the Tamron, and the Canon(IS or image stabilized) gets slightly higher marks than the Sigma for optical quality but it also costs a lot more and comes with the shortest warranty of the bunch. All three are rated pretty high though.
The F2.8 lenses let more light in to the sensor so they perform better in low light situations. In moderate lighting situations they allow you to shoot at higher shutter speeds to either stop the action or to avoid the need for a tripod. Even in situations with a lot of light they'll be sharper than the kit lens.The Canon kit lens is only considered "ok" optically by most people. The F2.8 zooms are better than the kit lens but won't be as sharp(or as fast) as the 50mm that your wife already has.
You're looking at a much faster lens in the 17-50. The 18-55 has a max aperture between 3.5 & 5.6; the 17-50 has a max aperture at 2.8 across the board. Those might sounds like small numbers, but they represent a huge difference. Here's a quick explanation.
Chets on vacation but word on the street is that he used a 400 2.8 with a 2x TC which resulted in 800mm at 5.6.
So is the lack of IS a big deal with the Tamron? I do not see too many problems with that in the reviews, but I have not gone too deeply, either.
I have the 18-200 mm and find it OK. works good in well lit situations, but if you extend the zoom all the way, a lot of detail is lost. I'm also looking at the Canon 15-85mm which is supposed to be very good for the $500-800 range.
This is a very, very popular lens at a good price($781)...http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10051_10051_263354_-1... but when they have sales the inventory sells out quickly. Whenever I've bought refurbished directly from Canon the gear has arrived in brand new condition and worked flawlessly. Has image stabilization and is designated as an "L" lens which is generally the highest quality in the Canon line of lenses.'Mad Cow said:
You could split the difference and get a 7D.....http://www.adorama.com/ICA7DR.html?utm_term=Other&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_campaign=Other&utm_source=cj_227502
I've thought about that camera and that is a great price on the 7D, but it seems like 7D is more for wildlife (birds) or sports, of which I do neither. Image quality is the only thing I really care about in a camera - build quality, "feel", battery life are features lost on me (for how I use the camera). I'm intrigued by the rumors of an entry level full frame that Canon should announce later this year, but the rumors have it expected to be priced near $2,000. A good quality 15-75 range lens would make the biggest difference for me now.
I cant help you on the right lens, but just yesterday I ordered the 28mm 1.8 for canon. Around 5am this morning I got cold feet and cancelled the order and amazon allowed me to cancel as it hadn't shipped yet. This afternoon as I though about which lens to get instead, I got a flat and find out I needed four new tires. So, no new lens and, yes, I can relate to lens deliberation. Good luck with the D600 - looks like an awesome camera!
I have that lens, it's well regarded optically for the price. If you're shooting indoor sports, it won't cut it for you. I've taken it to the zoo with monopod and been pleased with the results. Also, a Tiger game on a nice day sitting in the lower level. Indoor at Ford field was near impossible. That's a good deal, IIRC I got my T3 for about $100 less over a year ago. $100 for the upgrade to T3i is well worth it.
Thanks for the response, it made me realize that I hadn't really thought about WHY I want the camera. My issue has been that my P&S has can't handle the low light of indoors, or the fast motion of our newborn. A little research makes it seem like the lenses in that deal are not really the answer, and I should instead look for a fast prime lens. It also looks like the Nikon D7000 is a standout for those shots, although Ken Rockwell really harping on how the "camera doesn't matter" is making me think about starting with the D3100 since it is very similarly ranked yet a third the cost.
The camera doesn't matter, when it comes to shot selection and composition. The camera does matter when it comes to the finer points, like resolution, focus points, sensor size, and the quality of things like auto white balance or high-ISO shots. But yes, lenses are more important when it comes to choosing the right tool for what you want to shoot. A 50 mm/1.8 is a great starter prime (note that autofocus for this lens will not work with the D3100). I'm pretty sure it's one of every camera hobbyist's first prime lenses (they call it the Nifty Fifty), because it has a great ratio of affordability and effectiveness.
I opted for the Canon 35mm F2, it's more versatile that the nifty fifty. The focus is fast and not as loud as some would have you believe. Of course, it costs three times as much, but it's not prohibitive. However, shooting at F2 isn't really a substitute for decent light, depending on the situation. The depth of field is so shallow that you may not be able to get everything you want in focus. You'll soon buy a good flash to bounce the light.
I love my Lowepro Slingshot.
