Memphis FBGs - relocation help (1 Viewer)

[Brady Marino]

I lived there in 1997, working as a contract programmer. You better keep your doors locked, both house and car, even while you are in each. Memphis is a dangerous place. The 4 months I was there there was a car jacking at a mart I frequent and I had my convertible top ripped with a knife.

That was almost 20 years ago.

Yes, Memphis is a very dangerous place in the wrong areas..... However, Memphis is a surprisingly safe place in most areas anyone on this forum would find themselves in. Not unlike any other major city, don't be an idiot... keep your wits about you and be aware of your surroundings and you'll be fine.

I understand that, if you want safe, cookie cutter suburbia goodness, go to Germantown, Collierville, and the good parts of Bartlett and Cordova.

Cordova is in rapid decline since being annexed by the city of memphis. Not ghetto by ANY stretch... but not even close to germantown/collierville caliber (which are very pretty/safe suburban areas if that's what you're shooting for).

Bartlett used to be nice but IMO is sliding a bit. Never was as "upscale" as Gtown/Cville. While it's got some nice neighborhoods, IMO it's more of a "White trash with a little cash" area that is propped up by aggressive policing. No disrespect to anyone here who may live there... just my .02/perceptions from the areas of Bartlett that I am forced to frequent.

In Collierville and most of Germantown you could walk around at 1am in a suit made of $100 bills and you'd never have to worry. Hell, in collierville, even driving through town while looking like you dont belong will often get you pulled over for "improper lane change" or somesuch offense so the cop can give you a good once-over.

So basically the suburbs are policed by stereotypical Southern officers. Gotcha. Zero interest in living out there.

 

[[icon]]

So basically the suburbs are policed by stereotypical Southern officers. Gotcha. Zero interest in living out there.

Some suburbs are... and I'd say it's more like stereotypical nice neighborhood officers not southern officers. I wasn't referring to people being pulled over for being black.... I'm referring to pulling through in a POS car or driving around in any semblance of a suspicious manner.

Basically if you look like you've got no business in town or are up to no good... you are quick to be pulled over. Cville itself has a ton of black families... my folks neighborhood is likely 30-40% black families and average home is 5000sq ft / $500k+. Nobody cares about the racial makeup...as they shouldn't. They just want folks there who can afford the house, and will keep up on maintenance/lawn/etc, and not stir up trouble.

But yeah.... for a 20-something single guy, it's not where you want to be. You're on the right track in here.

 

[krista4]

2010 census shows Collierville as about 90% white, 7% black, icon's parents' neighborhood notwithstanding.

 

[krista4]

2010 census shows Collierville as about 90% white, 7% black, icon's parents' neighborhood notwithstanding.

And just for fun:

Germantown - 90% white, 4% black

Memphis - 34% white, 61% black

 

[[icon]]

2010 census shows Collierville as about 90% white, 7% black, icon's parents' neighborhood notwithstanding.

I imagine a 2014 census would paint a pretty different picture with at least a 10 point shift in the racial makeup. (Edit: Cville Highschool was 82% white as of 2013).

Also, the newer parts of Collierville are the ones seeing a lot of growth in diversity. "Old Collierville" (fletcher/powell road, north byhalia area) are still fairly entrenched.

As someone who's either lived in Collierville, or had parents who have lived there for 20-25 years I've got a pretty good idea on how the town has shifted

Regardless... irrelevant tangent as that is NOT where the OP wants to live.

 

[Brady Marino]

2010 census shows Collierville as about 90% white, 7% black, icon's parents' neighborhood notwithstanding.

I imagine a 2014 census would paint a pretty different picture with at least a 10 point shift in the racial makeup.

Also, the newer parts of Collierville are the ones seeing a lot of growth in diversity. "Old Collierville" (fletcher/powell road, north byhalia area) are still fairly entrenched.

As someone who's either lived in Collierville, or had parents who have lived there for 20-25 years I've got a pretty good idea on how the town has shifted

Regardless... irrelevant tangent as that is NOT where the OP wants to live.

No problem. I'm trying to learn the area as much as possible before I'm actually able to BE there. I'm a little OCD like that.

 

[[icon]]

2010 census shows Collierville as about 90% white, 7% black, icon's parents' neighborhood notwithstanding.

And just for fun:

Germantown - 90% white, 4% black

Memphis - 34% white, 61% black

Not sure what the point of this is.... the city of memphis proper is most definitely largely black. I don't think anyone would argue that. Germantown and Collierville have changed a good bit even in just the last 4-5 years.

 

[Brady Marino]

2010 census shows Collierville as about 90% white, 7% black, icon's parents' neighborhood notwithstanding.

And just for fun:

Germantown - 90% white, 4% black

Memphis - 34% white, 61% black

Also for fun:

Detroit- 8% white, 81% black.

Chicago- 32% white, 32% black, 29% hispanic (holy equality, batman)

St. Louis- 43% white, 47% black

Edit: Atlanta: 35% white, 53% black.

 

[krista4]

2010 census shows Collierville as about 90% white, 7% black, icon's parents' neighborhood notwithstanding.

And just for fun:

Germantown - 90% white, 4% black

Memphis - 34% white, 61% black

Also for fun:

Detroit- 8% white, 81% black.

Chicago- 32% white, 32% black, 29% hispanic (holy equality, batman)

St. Louis- 43% white, 47% black

Edit: Atlanta: 35% white, 53% black.

Chicago is interesting; it looks equal but the black population is, for the most part, fairly segregated. One of the things I liked about Memphis was that there was a solid middle-class black population that you came across on a daily basis. In Chicago you don't see this as much.

 

[Brady Marino]

2010 census shows Collierville as about 90% white, 7% black, icon's parents' neighborhood notwithstanding.

And just for fun:

Germantown - 90% white, 4% black

Memphis - 34% white, 61% black

Also for fun:

Detroit- 8% white, 81% black.

Chicago- 32% white, 32% black, 29% hispanic (holy equality, batman)

St. Louis- 43% white, 47% black

Edit: Atlanta: 35% white, 53% black.

Chicago is interesting; it looks equal but the black population is, for the most part, fairly segregated. One of the things I liked about Memphis was that there was a solid middle-class black population that you came across on a daily basis. In Chicago you don't see this as much.

Sort of the same in St. Louis, though there is a decent middle-class black community that is rather close-knit. The ratio was closer to a Memphis as recently as 10 years ago, but younger whites are moving back to the city and revitalizing some areas (Lafayette Square is a good example of a really blighted area that got a new lease on life). Also, there's a solid Bosnian community in the Bevo Mill area that has really breathed new life there after being rundown for a few years.

 

[SmoovySmoov]

You want Midtown / Cooper Young.

 

[Brady Marino]

Two more:

1437 Central Avenue

2150 Washington Avenue

 

[[icon]]

Two more:

1437 Central Avenue NO!

2150 Washington Avenue OK

Based purely off area. Avoid Lamar area at all costs IMO.

 

[Brady Marino]

Two more:

1437 Central Avenue NO!

2150 Washington Avenue OK

So, in general, west Midtown bad. That's the second on the western end that's a dud.

 

[[icon]]

Two more:

1437 Central Avenue NO!

2150 Washington Avenue OK

So, in general, west Midtown bad. That's the second on the western end that's a dud.

One factor in many for your search:

http://www.neighborhoodscout.com/tn/memphis/crime/

 

[Fuller]

Two more:

1437 Central Avenue NO!

2150 Washington Avenue OK

Based purely off area. Avoid Lamar area at all costs IMO.

there are some big dollar houses about 500' from right there and it's right across the street from the University Club, but it is right on the edge between good and bad. Prince Mongo's castle is right there also!

actually the University Club is closer to Lamar and not right across the street. Right across the street are some huge old houses. I think the Scientologists used to own one of them

 

[[icon]]

Two more:

1437 Central Avenue NO!

2150 Washington Avenue OK

Based purely off area. Avoid Lamar area at all costs IMO.

there are some big dollar houses about 500' from right there and it's right across the street from the University Club, but it is right on the edge between good and bad. Prince Mongo's castle is right there also!

I year ya... but IMO it's also pretty easy to get it wrong in that area. Not to mention the entertainment options are much better near overton square / cooper young.

 

[Fuller]

Two more:

1437 Central Avenue NO!

2150 Washington Avenue OK

Based purely off area. Avoid Lamar area at all costs IMO.

there are some big dollar houses about 500' from right there and it's right across the street from the University Club, but it is right on the edge between good and bad. Prince Mongo's castle is right there also!

I year ya... but IMO it's also pretty easy to get it wrong in that area. Not to mention the entertainment options are much better near overton square / cooper young.

definitely a hike to get to any good spots

 

[[icon]]

definitely a hike to get to any good spots

All this does decrease his value in the "new to memphis" death pool.

 

[Brady Marino]

Two more:

1437 Central Avenue NO!

2150 Washington Avenue OK

So, in general, west Midtown bad. That's the second on the western end that's a dud.

One factor in many for your search:

http://www.neighborhoodscout.com/tn/memphis/crime/

Bookmarked. Nice find.

 

[Brady Marino]

definitely a hike to get to any good spots

All this does decrease his value in the "new to memphis" death pool.

If I were that concerned about that, I'd live in West Memphis.

 

[[icon]]

definitely a hike to get to any good spots

All this does decrease his value in the "new to memphis" death pool.

If I were that concerned about that, I'd live in West Memphis.

That would make you a first round pick.

Or North Memphis

Or South Memphis.

 

[Fuller]

definitely a hike to get to any good spots

All this does decrease his value in the "new to memphis" death pool.

If I were that concerned about that, I'd live in West Memphis.

West Memphis is worse than Memphis.

 

[SmoovySmoov]

Go ahead and starting listening to this over and over.

 

[BRONG]

My buddy is moving there on Sunday -- landed a nice gig with the Grizz / FedEx Forum. He wouldn't mind being near the arena, unless it blows. He knows not one person there and his boss is older and in the burbs so he's of no help.

Single dude. 30s. Laid back. Loves music. Beer is his mistress. Think Norm, from Cheers...he WILL need a bar like that, walking distance. In fact, that's more important than the apartment.

Okay, tell him where he's going to live.

 

[Brady Marino]

definitely a hike to get to any good spots

All this does decrease his value in the "new to memphis" death pool.

If I were that concerned about that, I'd live in West Memphis.

West Memphis is worse than Memphis.

Kinda the point of my post.

 

[BRONG]

Also, do there happen to be any gay neighborhoods? Just curious.

 

[Brady Marino]

Also, do there happen to be any gay neighborhoods? Just curious.

Can't tell your friend where to live yet, but from what I've read, there are a few gay bars in Cooper-Young. I'm sure icon and Krista4 can get you more info.

 

[krista4]

My buddy is moving there on Sunday -- landed a nice gig with the Grizz / FedEx Forum. He wouldn't mind being near the arena, unless it blows. He knows not one person there and his boss is older and in the burbs so he's of no help.

Single dude. 30s. Laid back. Loves music. Beer is his mistress. Think Norm, from Cheers...he WILL need a bar like that, walking distance. In fact, that's more important than the apartment.

Okay, tell him where he's going to live.

The most "gay-friendly" would be Cooper-Young, but there are no gay neighborhoods like you might find in other cities.

If he's working at the FedEx Forum, then there are plenty of places downtown he could live and actually walk to work. He could also live in one of the Midtown neighborhoods and have a short (10 minute) drive.

 

[krista4]

My buddy is moving there on Sunday -- landed a nice gig with the Grizz / FedEx Forum. He wouldn't mind being near the arena, unless it blows. He knows not one person there and his boss is older and in the burbs so he's of no help.

Single dude. 30s. Laid back. Loves music. Beer is his mistress. Think Norm, from Cheers...he WILL need a bar like that, walking distance. In fact, that's more important than the apartment.

Okay, tell him where he's going to live.

The most "gay-friendly" would be Cooper-Young, but there are no gay neighborhoods like you might find in other cities.

If he's working at the FedEx Forum, then there are plenty of places downtown he could live and actually walk to work. He could also live in one of the Midtown neighborhoods and have a short (10 minute) drive.

To expand on the downtown idea, he would not want to be directly south or southeast of the Forum. North or West of there (though not north of Uptown), Southwest in the South Main Arts District area, or South Bluffs where I lived would be fine.

 

[BRONG]

He's not gay you guys, I just wanted him to read that.

The rest is true, btw, please advise.

 

[[icon]]

My buddy is moving there on Sunday -- landed a nice gig with the Grizz / FedEx Forum. He wouldn't mind being near the arena, unless it blows. He knows not one person there and his boss is older and in the burbs so he's of no help.

Single dude. 30s. Laid back. Loves music. Beer is his mistress. Think Norm, from Cheers...he WILL need a bar like that, walking distance. In fact, that's more important than the apartment.

Okay, tell him where he's going to live.

Bardog or Blind Bear downtown would scratch that itch nicely.

If the variety of beer is more important than that "Cheers" vibe, then Flying Saucer downtown has over 100 options.

 

[[icon]]

Krista just nailed the downtown area

 

[SproutDaddy]

Also, do there happen to be any gay neighborhoods? Just curious.

Can't tell your friend where to live yet, but from what I've read, there are a few gay bars in Cooper-Young. I'm sure icon and Krista4 can get you more info.

While there are gay bars in Memphis, none are located in the cooper young area.

 

[BRONG]

Here's his location for the first month (no lease, so he can move):

252 N. Lauderdale - Uptown Square Apartments

$800 a month; any chance he could get robbed or something?!

 

[BRONG]

He's been eyeing (online) TJ Mulligans and Westy's already...this will be a boon to whichever wins.

 

[SproutDaddy]

He's been eyeing (online) TJ Mulligans and Westy's already...this will be a boon to whichever wins.

Not a big fan of either place........especially Mulligans.

 

[[icon]]

He's been eyeing (online) TJ Mulligans and Westy's already...this will be a boon to whichever wins.

Not a big fan of either place........especially Mulligans.

Westys is good for 3am tamales twice a year (for me).

Havent set foot in mulligans pinch in a decade.

Honestly nobody really goes out in the pinch district (that area) anymore that I'm aware of. Unless he's the "Degen drink alone or with a few other degens" type, he'll be much better off heading south a few blocks.

 

[Brady Marino]

Also, do there happen to be any gay neighborhoods? Just curious.

Can't tell your friend where to live yet, but from what I've read, there are a few gay bars in Cooper-Young. I'm sure icon and Krista4 can get you more info.

While there are gay bars in Memphis, none are located in the cooper young area.

Well, guess that's what happens when you assume a gay-friendly community has gay bars.

 

[krista4]

He's been eyeing (online) TJ Mulligans and Westy's already...this will be a boon to whichever wins.

Absolutely love Westy's. We were welcomed with open arms immediately and considered "regulars" even if months went by between visits (which rarely happened since we loved it anyway). Reggie Price, the bartender there became a good friend and we went to his wedding. Unfortunately he had a falling out and doesn't work there any more. :( The other bartenders are awesome too, but nothing touches Reggie for entertainment. Anyway, great neighborhood spot.

I went to Mulligan's once; wasn't really impressed. Ferraro's across the street from Westy's has great NY style pizza (rivaling Little Italy for best in city for NY style), but not really a bar.

Uptown is a "transitional" neighborhood. It's OK but on the edge of sketchier places. He'll probably wish to move when he gets a chance.

 

[BRONG]

Definitely not the degen drinker. As happy as they come. Probably the nicest guy I know, actually. Yeah, I think he is. They gave him one hell of a send-off at his "old" bar. WE NEED TO FIND HIS NEW ONE...and maybe an apartment.

 

[krista4]

Definitely not the degen drinker. As happy as they come. Probably the nicest guy I know, actually. Yeah, I think he is. They gave him one hell of a send-off at his "old" bar. WE NEED TO FIND HIS NEW ONE...and maybe an apartment.

Westy's is a very happy (not gay) bar.

 

[[icon]]

Definitely not the degen drinker. As happy as they come. Probably the nicest guy I know, actually. Yeah, I think he is. They gave him one hell of a send-off at his "old" bar. WE NEED TO FIND HIS NEW ONE...and maybe an apartment.

I suggest starting with Bardog and Blind Bear. I can intro him to the owner of either. Both spots have strong regular support by younger non-degen set.

Saucer has very attractive waitresses in the german skirt/stocking.button down shirt look and an obscene beer selection...great beer garden (ie open air roofed patio).

Local Gastropub is another great pub with solid beer selection and food options.

Honestly there are a half dozen solid bars that I could see myself becoming a regular at if I lived downtown.

 

[BRONG]

Okay then, Westy's it is (at least for that first month)! K4, what about his current location (posted above)? Any recommendations?

 

[krista4]

Definitely not the degen drinker. As happy as they come. Probably the nicest guy I know, actually. Yeah, I think he is. They gave him one hell of a send-off at his "old" bar. WE NEED TO FIND HIS NEW ONE...and maybe an apartment.

I suggest starting with Bardog and Blind Bear. I can intro him to the owner of either. Both spots have strong regular support by younger non-degen set.

Saucer has very attractive waitresses in the german skirt/stocking.button down shirt look and an obscene beer selection...great beer garden (ie open air roofed patio).

Local Gastropub is another great pub with solid beer selection and food options.

Honestly there are a half dozen solid bars that I could see myself becoming a regular at if I lived downtown.

Bardog and Local are both great. For "local bar" I'd say Bardog as it is more of a bar than Local (though both have great food, too). The only problem with Bardog is that they still allow smoking upstairs. :( Another one he could check out is The Brass Door.

 

[[icon]]

Definitely not the degen drinker. As happy as they come. Probably the nicest guy I know, actually. Yeah, I think he is. They gave him one hell of a send-off at his "old" bar. WE NEED TO FIND HIS NEW ONE...and maybe an apartment.

Westy's is a very happy (not gay) bar.

Westy's is very dark and full of an older degen crowd whenever I go in there for some reason. I enjoy it for what it is but the place is depressing to me if I'm not already ####faced and actually looking to socialize with the other patrons.

I just find a younger, more energetic/upbeat crowd with more attractive females at some of the other spots downtown. Is your buddy single and looking to drink/mingle with attractive members of the opposite sex?

That said.. definitely worth a look if Krista speaks highly of it.

 

[BRONG]

Thanks icon.

ETA yes, he is single and looking for love but he also loves his sports (Michigan State and the Packers top the list), so no clubby bars for him.

 

[krista4]

Okay then, Westy's it is (at least for that first month)! K4, what about his current location (posted above)? Any recommendations?

Whatcha mean re current location?

 

[krista4]

Definitely not the degen drinker. As happy as they come. Probably the nicest guy I know, actually. Yeah, I think he is. They gave him one hell of a send-off at his "old" bar. WE NEED TO FIND HIS NEW ONE...and maybe an apartment.

Westy's is a very happy (not gay) bar.

Westy's is very dark and full of an older degen crowd whenever I go in there for some reason. I enjoy it for what it is but the place is depressing to me if I'm not already ####faced and actually looking to socialize with the other patrons.

I just find a younger, more energetic/upbeat crowd with more attractive females at some of the other spots downtown. Is your buddy single and looking to drink/mingle with attractive members of the opposite sex?

That said.. definitely worth a look if Krista speaks highly of it.

I generally saw lots of young-ish people there and lots of parties happening, etc. I totally agree he'll find a more attractive crowd in the core of downtown, though. He'll likely wish to move more into the downtown core and make a little trip to Westy's now and then for fun. There's just so much more there--in addition to what you've mentioned, great food at Aldo's, McEwen's, Majestic Grill, Flight (which I stopped going to because they're #######s, but the food really is good), Felicia Suzanne, Blue Fin, etc. etc. etc.

 

[[icon]]

Definitely not the degen drinker. As happy as they come. Probably the nicest guy I know, actually. Yeah, I think he is. They gave him one hell of a send-off at his "old" bar. WE NEED TO FIND HIS NEW ONE...and maybe an apartment.

Westy's is a very happy (not gay) bar.

Westy's is very dark and full of an older degen crowd whenever I go in there for some reason. I enjoy it for what it is but the place is depressing to me if I'm not already ####faced and actually looking to socialize with the other patrons.

I just find a younger, more energetic/upbeat crowd with more attractive females at some of the other spots downtown. Is your buddy single and looking to drink/mingle with attractive members of the opposite sex?

That said.. definitely worth a look if Krista speaks highly of it.

I generally saw lots of young-ish people there and lots of parties happening, etc. I totally agree he'll find a more attractive crowd in the core of downtown, though. He'll likely wish to move more into the downtown core and make a little trip to Westy's now and then for fun. There's just so much more there--in addition to what you've mentioned, great food at Aldo's, McEwen's, Majestic Grill, Flight (which I stopped going to because they're #######s, but the food really is good), Felicia Suzanne, Blue Fin, etc. etc. etc.

95% of my Westys experiences have been late night so I trust your read bettter than mine.

LOVE McEwens. Have purposely avoided Flight because I've heard that from several other sources. Lot of other places I can drop $150/head on dinner and drinks in this town and not deal with pretentious dickbags.

STILL haven't made it down to Aldo's for some odd reason. Have been spending a lot of time in Overton square this year so far... some really great places sprouting up there.