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Ask a car salesman... (1 Viewer)

I was set on buying an Acura RDX but now that I looked at the Audi Q3, I'm not so sure.  I am methodical in new car buying so I'll wait until the winter, but those are my two top contenders. 

ETA I guess the Q5 is probably more to my liking

 
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Doctor Detroit said:
I am methodical in new car buying so I'll wait until the winter, but those are my two top contenders. 
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We’ve gotten a bunch more snow in the last week. I would think MI has gotten some too. You’re the first person I’ve seen looking forward to next winter while we’re still in the middle of this winter (it isn’t spring until it warms up and the snow is gone). ⛄️ 

 
Johnny Rock said:
We’ve gotten a bunch more snow in the last week. I would think MI has gotten some too. You’re the first person I’ve seen looking forward to next winter while we’re still in the middle of this winter (it isn’t spring until it warms up and the snow is gone). ⛄️ 
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I live in DC and we got more snow two weeks ago in 12 hours, than we got all winter. 

Based on this thread, and what I know, end of year is among the best times to buy a car and that's when I'll be ready to buy.  Not sure what car I currently own that I'll get rid of, but I like to shop well in advance to mitigate the failures in getting the right vehicle.  Still leaning Acura RDX but these Audis have my attention.  I'd really like to buy a full-sized pickup but that's just not practical. 

 
Andy Dufresne said:
What's the lowest I should/could offer on this car?  $12k? $12.5k?

It was traded in to the dealer on 3/25 And they already had one deal fall through. It's an Acura sitting at a Mercedes dealer lot.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/731510510/overview/

I'm not a very good negotiator. 
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Have you inquired with them how much they paid for the car?  Was it a trade-in or did they buy at auction?

If you know that, you can make them an offer based on it (they will also try to tell you how much work they have done on it and the value of that, but that's mostly BS).  Wait until April 29th and offer them $800 over what they paid for it and tell them the offer is good for 24 hours.  They will respond with a higher offer.  Don't respond.  Wait for them. 

Also, are you paying cash?  Financing? Trading in?

 
worrierking said:
Have you inquired with them how much they paid for the car?  Was it a trade-in or did they buy at auction?

If you know that, you can make them an offer based on it (they will also try to tell you how much work they have done on it and the value of that, but that's mostly BS).  Wait until April 29th and offer them $800 over what they paid for it and tell them the offer is good for 24 hours.  They will respond with a higher offer.  Don't respond.  Wait for them. 

Also, are you paying cash?  Financing? Trading in?
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When a dealer gets a car at auction they'll tell you what they paid for it? 

This was a one owner trade in. Will be paying cash. No trade in. 

 
They will tell you what they paid most of the time.  It never hurts to ask.  If you know what they have in it, it helps you make them a good offer.  Even if they have very little in it, you are still battling against the marketplace.  If they can just sell it at auction for what you are offering, you won't get it at that price.  The only exception is at the end of the month or year and they desperately need the sale to make a quota or goal.  That's why you wait until the next to last day.  If you don't get your price or close to it, you can still work on getting the car but you have a chance to catch them desperate to make a deal at the end of the month.

Since you are not financing and have no trade-in, the negotiation is very simple.  The more complicated the deal, the better it is for the dealer.  They do this all the time and are better at it!

Good luck.  It's a good car!

 
Andy Dufresne said:
What's the lowest I should/could offer on this car?  $12k? $12.5k?

It was traded in to the dealer on 3/25 And they already had one deal fall through. It's an Acura sitting at a Mercedes dealer lot.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/731510510/overview/

I'm not a very good negotiator. 
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Price car on KBB at rough book. Add 600-900 for recon work and then add a couple hundred bucks. Should be a good starting point. 

I don’t think any of the dealers I have ever worked with have ever shared their acquisition cost early in the process. 

 
Nugget said:
Price car on KBB at rough book. Add 600-900 for recon work and then add a couple hundred bucks. Should be a good starting point. 

I don’t think any of the dealers I have ever worked with have ever shared their acquisition cost early in the process. 
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If I do that I'd get a price higher than they're asking. I think they have it priced pretty fairly but I'm more attractive to my wife if I attempt to negotiate.

 
Bull Dozier said:
As long as you feel like you got a good deal, and are happy with the car, not much else matters.

Congrats on the new ride!
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It wasn't ideal timing (we just dropped a boatload on furniture too) but my daughter has decided to stay in school any extra semester and I wasn't comfortable anymore with her driving the Infiniti with 200k miles back and forth from Minneapolis to Fargo.  She was supposed to graduate,  get a job,  and buy her own car! :angry:

So as of this afternoon I'll own FIVE cars.  Talk about a First World Problem.

 
Andy Dufresne said:
It wasn't ideal timing (we just dropped a boatload on furniture too) but my daughter has decided to stay in school any extra semester and I wasn't comfortable anymore with her driving the Infiniti with 200k miles back and forth from Minneapolis to Fargo.  She was supposed to graduate,  get a job,  and buy her own car! :angry:

So as of this afternoon I'll own FIVE cars.  Talk about a First World Problem.
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You have a daughter at NDSU too?  My step daughter is there as well.  If you think an Infinity with 200k wasn't good enough to drive back and forth, you should see the '97 Cavalier my step daughter takes back and forth.

 
Bull Dozier said:
You have a daughter at NDSU too?  My step daughter is there as well.  If you think an Infinity with 200k wasn't good enough to drive back and forth, you should see the '97 Cavalier my step daughter takes back and forth.
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Well, she's at MSU Moorhead. I guess maybe I was looking for justification to get a different car! :lol:

 
Johnny Rock said:
Why so coy? 

Water damage? Cracked block? Needs new transmission?
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Wait what, coy?  Not intentionally.  The undercarriage had some different parts that didn't match on each side.  I kept the car overnight and it leaked, albeit slightly.  The mechanic showed me the wheel well in the back, from inside the car, and there had been some type of insulation or whatever taken out.  Nobody would have removed that if they weren't trying to hide something.  Concealing water damage seems likely.  Maybe it came from Houston, I don't know.  Somebody was telling me there were something like 500,000 cars from that disaster and that many are probably back on the road.  No idea if that's true or not but I wouldn't be surprised if they ended up in other parts of the country.  Not sure how they get around the carfax however.

Bottom line was the car was super clean inside and out but underneath it all there were red flags.  In fact all the dealership cars I checked out had warts of some kind.  And I looked around a lot.  Ended up buying one from craigslist and am quite happy so far.  There is no way you get a good deal on a used car from a dealership for obvious reasons.  I can see going the Certified route and paying a premium for some kind of warranty in exchange for peace of mind, but you won't be getting some great deal from them.  To each his own.

Profile of a good used car to buy is an older, conservative type of person, preferably female, one owner, garaged car with excellent service records, clean carfax and w/out pets or kids if you can find it.  And obviously highway miles if you can ascertain as much, which I was actually able to do in this case.  It's tough to find out the real reason someone is selling but I feel confident that it was legit, which had nothing to do with any problems or whatnot.  And btw, I didn't get near used American cars in this process.  That might ruffle feathers here but it's just my opinion.

The whole process is tedious to say the least and if someone does not want to go through it and instead buy a certified car, I don't blame them one bit. I actually bought a used one for the wife right after I was done with my search.  Fun!

 
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